1 00:00:09,440 --> 00:00:11,440 I'm travelling through the Arctic, 2 00:00:11,440 --> 00:00:13,480 the Land of the Midnight Sun. 3 00:00:13,480 --> 00:00:15,440 The most amazing view. 4 00:00:15,440 --> 00:00:19,480 For thousands of years, only the hardiest hunters and herders 5 00:00:19,480 --> 00:00:22,200 lived in this inhospitable land. 6 00:00:23,600 --> 00:00:25,880 But now, the Arctic is warming 7 00:00:25,880 --> 00:00:28,160 faster than anywhere else on Earth. 8 00:00:28,160 --> 00:00:29,680 Go back. Go back. 9 00:00:29,680 --> 00:00:33,560 As it thaws, new riches are being revealed. 10 00:00:33,560 --> 00:00:35,560 This is what it's all about - the oil. 11 00:00:35,560 --> 00:00:38,440 All eyes are turning north. 12 00:00:38,440 --> 00:00:43,520 For one bright summer, I will live with the people of the Arctic. 13 00:00:43,520 --> 00:00:45,000 Absolutely loving it. 14 00:00:46,400 --> 00:00:47,840 This is the real thing. 15 00:00:47,840 --> 00:00:51,480 I want to understand how their lives are changing 16 00:00:51,480 --> 00:00:54,800 and discover what the future holds for this great wilderness. 17 00:00:56,440 --> 00:00:58,520 MAN CALLS TO DOGS 18 00:00:58,520 --> 00:01:00,600 I'm in the far north of Greenland. 19 00:01:00,600 --> 00:01:04,480 The sun has just returned, after the long winter night. 20 00:01:06,120 --> 00:01:09,280 This is the Arctic of the imagination - 21 00:01:09,280 --> 00:01:12,600 a frozen land, swathed in ice two miles deep. 22 00:01:12,600 --> 00:01:15,120 Just looking around, it's so surreal, 23 00:01:15,120 --> 00:01:17,320 it's a magical place. 24 00:01:17,320 --> 00:01:21,760 Along its rugged coast live the most iconic of Arctic people - 25 00:01:21,760 --> 00:01:23,520 the Inuit. 26 00:01:23,520 --> 00:01:25,840 Weapons at the ready. 27 00:01:25,840 --> 00:01:27,680 This really is a hunting trip. 28 00:01:27,680 --> 00:01:29,080 How are you, my friend? 29 00:01:29,080 --> 00:01:31,400 MAN SPEAKS IN GREENLANDIC 30 00:01:29,080 --> 00:01:31,400 Ah, thank you so much. 31 00:01:31,400 --> 00:01:35,080 I live with traditional hunters and experience the realities 32 00:01:35,080 --> 00:01:37,280 of life... 33 00:01:35,080 --> 00:01:37,280 GUNSHOT AND HOWLS 34 00:01:37,280 --> 00:01:41,040 ..and death. But Greenland's exploiting new frontiers. 35 00:01:41,040 --> 00:01:42,640 It's about to strike it big. 36 00:01:42,640 --> 00:01:44,760 EXPLOSION 37 00:01:47,360 --> 00:01:51,320 The amount of metal in this pillar is about $1.5 million. 38 00:01:51,320 --> 00:01:55,040 This is the front line of change in the north... 39 00:01:55,040 --> 00:01:56,080 Wow! 40 00:01:56,080 --> 00:02:01,880 ..but is there a place for hunters in the Arctic of the 21st century? 41 00:02:10,200 --> 00:02:14,000 WIND GUSTS AND HOWLS 42 00:02:17,520 --> 00:02:21,080 I've always been fascinated by hunter-gatherers, 43 00:02:21,080 --> 00:02:24,400 but just imagine trying to eke out an existence 44 00:02:24,400 --> 00:02:30,440 from all that you can find in a barren, desolate landscape like this. 45 00:02:30,440 --> 00:02:34,720 Now, for the Inuit, most of those traditions have died away 46 00:02:34,720 --> 00:02:37,640 but, amazingly, here in the north of Greenland, 47 00:02:37,640 --> 00:02:41,560 some of those traditions still are alive today. 48 00:02:41,560 --> 00:02:46,360 And that's why I've chosen to come to the village of Qaanaaq. 49 00:02:46,360 --> 00:02:48,680 Greenland, a protectorate of Denmark, 50 00:02:48,680 --> 00:02:50,760 is the largest island in the world, 51 00:02:50,760 --> 00:02:53,440 but with the lowest population density. 52 00:02:53,440 --> 00:02:56,200 A vast ice sheet covers the interior, 53 00:02:56,200 --> 00:02:58,960 and its 56,000 people are spread out 54 00:02:58,960 --> 00:03:01,320 in a few coastal settlements. 55 00:03:01,320 --> 00:03:03,440 Qaanaaq, in the far northwest, 56 00:03:03,440 --> 00:03:05,040 is one of the most remote 57 00:03:05,040 --> 00:03:06,280 and traditional. 58 00:03:06,280 --> 00:03:09,760 This is one of the last places in Greenland 59 00:03:09,760 --> 00:03:12,560 where people still live by subsistence hunting. 60 00:03:12,560 --> 00:03:16,960 I'm going to spend two weeks living in this community. 61 00:03:16,960 --> 00:03:21,040 I want to learn about the traditions of the high Arctic. 62 00:03:21,040 --> 00:03:23,840 But I also want to see how hunters' lives are changing. 63 00:03:23,840 --> 00:03:25,440 How are you? 64 00:03:28,520 --> 00:03:30,880 How are you, my friend? 65 00:03:28,520 --> 00:03:30,880 HE SPEAKS IN GREENLANDIC 66 00:03:30,880 --> 00:03:32,640 Ah, thank you so much. 67 00:03:32,640 --> 00:03:34,360 Lovely to see you. 68 00:03:34,360 --> 00:03:37,440 Look at your sled. Amazing. 69 00:03:34,360 --> 00:03:37,440 HE SPEAKS IN GREENLANDIC 70 00:03:37,440 --> 00:03:39,320 Kamochitka? Kamochi. 71 00:03:39,320 --> 00:03:42,440 Kamochi. Sled. Kamochi. Kamochi. 72 00:03:44,240 --> 00:03:47,200 DOGS YELP AND YOWL 73 00:03:47,200 --> 00:03:51,000 Rasmus, like almost 90% of Greenlanders, is an Inuit. 74 00:03:51,000 --> 00:03:54,000 His ancestors colonised the frozen north, 75 00:03:54,000 --> 00:03:58,960 travelling from Alaska to Greenland on sleds pulled by dogs like these. 76 00:03:58,960 --> 00:04:03,680 These are Greenland dogs, half-wild, 77 00:04:03,680 --> 00:04:06,640 often scrapping with each other, in my experience. 78 00:04:06,640 --> 00:04:08,240 But this lot... 79 00:04:08,240 --> 00:04:10,400 they're like just any old mutt 80 00:04:10,400 --> 00:04:13,120 you'd have at home - really friendly. 81 00:04:13,120 --> 00:04:14,880 Hello there. 82 00:04:14,880 --> 00:04:19,040 One look at Mads Ole tells me I've come to the right place 83 00:04:19,040 --> 00:04:21,920 to learn about Inuit culture. 84 00:04:21,920 --> 00:04:25,480 I'm very jealous of what you're wearing. What is this? 85 00:04:25,480 --> 00:04:28,600 Polar bear. Polar bear? Polar bear! 86 00:04:28,600 --> 00:04:30,880 And did you hunt this polar bear yourself? 87 00:04:30,880 --> 00:04:32,760 Mm. You shoot? 88 00:04:32,760 --> 00:04:34,480 Yeah. You? OK. 89 00:04:34,480 --> 00:04:37,000 And, um, and these? Seal skin. 90 00:04:37,000 --> 00:04:38,600 Seal skin? Wow. 91 00:04:38,600 --> 00:04:40,080 Wow. And this? 92 00:04:41,440 --> 00:04:43,600 Shopping. Shopping! 93 00:04:43,600 --> 00:04:45,120 THEY CHUCKLE 94 00:04:47,200 --> 00:04:50,760 A team of hunters, led by Rasmus Avike, 95 00:04:50,760 --> 00:04:54,680 has agreed to let me tag along on their next hunting trip. 96 00:04:54,680 --> 00:04:57,520 Will I be with you on your sledge? HE SPEAKS IN GREENLANDIC 97 00:04:57,520 --> 00:05:01,440 With you? Yeah. OK. Yeah? OK, fantastic. 98 00:05:03,680 --> 00:05:08,240 Though snowmobiles have replaced sleds across most of the Arctic, 99 00:05:08,240 --> 00:05:12,680 dogs are still the preferred mode of transport in northern Greenland. 100 00:05:19,360 --> 00:05:21,200 Rasmus is in his mid-40s 101 00:05:21,200 --> 00:05:23,520 and has hunted all of his life. 102 00:05:23,520 --> 00:05:26,680 He's going to be my guide out on the sea ice. 103 00:05:28,160 --> 00:05:32,640 But before we head out hunting, he's going to take me fishing, 104 00:05:32,640 --> 00:05:34,400 a few miles south of Qaanaaq. 105 00:05:36,000 --> 00:05:38,560 Just looking around, it's so surreal. 106 00:05:38,560 --> 00:05:40,480 It's a magical place. 107 00:05:40,480 --> 00:05:44,200 Just to think, I'm on the sea. I'm on... 108 00:05:44,200 --> 00:05:47,120 I'm actually on the Arctic Ocean. 109 00:05:47,120 --> 00:05:51,720 And all of these little hillocks around me are icebergs. 110 00:05:51,720 --> 00:05:54,200 Moving quite a pace as well. 111 00:05:54,200 --> 00:05:55,520 Ah... 112 00:05:56,880 --> 00:05:58,880 I'm so happy. 113 00:05:58,880 --> 00:06:01,280 So happy. It's amazing. 114 00:06:07,200 --> 00:06:08,840 We're here. 115 00:06:08,840 --> 00:06:12,440 We arrive at the fishing grounds and get straight to work. 116 00:06:12,440 --> 00:06:16,000 First, we need to reopen a hole in the ice. 117 00:06:18,360 --> 00:06:20,240 Using mackerel for bait, 118 00:06:20,240 --> 00:06:23,040 the hunters gently lower hooks through a metre of ice 119 00:06:23,040 --> 00:06:24,760 and into the ocean below. 120 00:06:26,560 --> 00:06:28,640 Hard to think of a more iconic 121 00:06:28,640 --> 00:06:30,720 scene than this - 122 00:06:30,720 --> 00:06:33,880 a bunch of guys in furs stood around a little hole in the ice. 123 00:06:33,880 --> 00:06:36,960 A flat metal weight catches the strong current 124 00:06:36,960 --> 00:06:40,680 and sweeps the lines hundreds of metres away from the hole. 125 00:06:43,000 --> 00:06:48,440 It doesn't even bear thinking about - being sucked in. 126 00:06:48,440 --> 00:06:51,200 Now that I know how strong the current is, 127 00:06:51,200 --> 00:06:57,200 this makes the whole notion of going under the ice so much more scary. 128 00:06:59,640 --> 00:07:01,280 The lines will be left out for a few 129 00:07:01,280 --> 00:07:03,760 hours, so we retreat to the warmth of 130 00:07:03,760 --> 00:07:05,640 the fishing hut. 131 00:07:05,640 --> 00:07:08,920 Mads Ole tells me the key to happiness out on the ice 132 00:07:08,920 --> 00:07:10,760 is lots of snacking. 133 00:07:27,280 --> 00:07:29,600 Shall we go out? Mm. OK. 134 00:07:29,600 --> 00:07:32,920 Let's see if, er, we've had any success. 135 00:07:34,120 --> 00:07:35,640 They can't leave the lines out 136 00:07:35,640 --> 00:07:38,440 too long, in case predators eat the fish. 137 00:07:39,760 --> 00:07:43,080 I'd be lying if I said it felt like we had a shark at the end of this. 138 00:07:44,800 --> 00:07:47,120 Wahey! My God! 139 00:07:48,880 --> 00:07:52,000 Halibut and rays come out thick and fast. 140 00:07:52,000 --> 00:07:56,640 Plenty of food to keep us and the dogs happy. 141 00:07:59,880 --> 00:08:03,360 Great day's work. Really enjoyed that, actually. 142 00:08:03,360 --> 00:08:04,760 A really mellow, nice pace, 143 00:08:04,760 --> 00:08:09,440 but always something going on. Just the most surreal surroundings. 144 00:08:09,440 --> 00:08:12,160 And a great catch, you know. There's some nice, tasty fish 145 00:08:12,160 --> 00:08:15,240 that we're going to take with us on our journey tomorrow. 146 00:08:23,240 --> 00:08:25,240 Back in Qaanaaq, 147 00:08:25,240 --> 00:08:29,200 Rasmus invites me to his house to meet his family. 148 00:08:29,200 --> 00:08:34,480 Rasmus. Hello. How are you? Yeah. Is your house? 149 00:08:36,200 --> 00:08:37,560 OK, thank you. 150 00:08:38,920 --> 00:08:40,480 It's Mahlia, yes? Mahlia. 151 00:08:40,480 --> 00:08:42,360 Mahlia? Hello, Mahlia. Hello there. 152 00:08:42,360 --> 00:08:45,320 Hello. ..Bruce. 153 00:08:45,320 --> 00:08:48,360 Lovely to meet you. Wow! 154 00:08:48,360 --> 00:08:50,280 It's very nice to be in out of the cold, 155 00:08:50,280 --> 00:08:52,160 and what an extraordinary house. 156 00:08:53,480 --> 00:08:55,200 And... 157 00:08:55,200 --> 00:08:57,640 It's like the elephant in the room, isn't it? 158 00:08:57,640 --> 00:09:01,080 You can't really walk past it without having to ask a question. 159 00:09:01,080 --> 00:09:04,040 Rasmus, please, tell me, what is this that I've just stepped past? 160 00:09:04,040 --> 00:09:07,520 Walrus. This is walrus? Mm. 161 00:09:09,760 --> 00:09:12,760 And why is it here, in the middle of the living room? 162 00:09:23,600 --> 00:09:28,440 I keep my dog food in little, er, little bags by the larder 163 00:09:28,440 --> 00:09:31,120 and, er, this is the equivalent here. 164 00:09:34,640 --> 00:09:36,000 Yeah. 165 00:09:38,200 --> 00:09:40,920 Yeah, I'm getting like that too, I must admit! 166 00:09:42,720 --> 00:09:46,800 Rasmus must give his dogs a decent feed before the hunt. 167 00:10:01,480 --> 00:10:06,120 Fatty meat like this is the secret to a sled dog's endurance. 168 00:10:06,120 --> 00:10:09,440 It's energy-rich and very long-lasting. 169 00:10:09,440 --> 00:10:12,560 Animals aren't just a source of meat to the Inuit. 170 00:10:12,560 --> 00:10:15,360 Skins and furs are used to make clothing. 171 00:10:15,360 --> 00:10:17,760 Rasmus shows me his cold-weather gear - 172 00:10:17,760 --> 00:10:21,000 polar bear trousers and a reindeer jacket. 173 00:10:27,240 --> 00:10:30,720 I feel like Pan, out of some fairy tale or other. 174 00:10:33,360 --> 00:10:36,880 HE LAUGHS 175 00:10:36,880 --> 00:10:38,800 Rasmus, you are the dude. 176 00:10:38,800 --> 00:10:41,640 Thank you. And that's so clever. 177 00:10:41,640 --> 00:10:44,040 Just the fur ruff there 178 00:10:44,040 --> 00:10:48,400 sort of seamlessly fits and stops any spindrift blowing into the cuff. 179 00:10:48,400 --> 00:10:49,920 I want one! 180 00:10:49,920 --> 00:10:51,960 HE CHUCKLES 181 00:10:51,960 --> 00:10:53,480 Rasmus... 182 00:10:59,280 --> 00:11:02,400 Minus 50. Minus 60. Mm. 183 00:11:02,400 --> 00:11:05,680 This gear is only used in severe cold. 184 00:11:05,680 --> 00:11:07,840 It's a mere minus five at the moment, 185 00:11:07,840 --> 00:11:10,960 so Rasmus says I won't be needing it on this trip. 186 00:11:12,680 --> 00:11:17,040 THEY CHUCKLE 187 00:11:17,040 --> 00:11:18,920 Ah... It's amazing stuff, 188 00:11:18,920 --> 00:11:21,160 and it's so... it's really light and flexible. 189 00:11:25,800 --> 00:11:29,600 Next morning, it's time to go hunting. 190 00:11:29,600 --> 00:11:32,120 Mahlia has come to see Rasmus off. 191 00:11:32,120 --> 00:11:36,000 Hunting is a dangerous occupation in spring, 192 00:11:36,000 --> 00:11:38,880 when the ice is melting and can break up at any moment. 193 00:12:01,400 --> 00:12:02,760 BOTH: Bye. 194 00:12:07,880 --> 00:12:10,120 RASMUS CALLS TO DOGS 195 00:12:15,400 --> 00:12:17,520 Greenland dogs can drag a sled 196 00:12:17,520 --> 00:12:21,400 100 miles a day, for up to a week at a time, 197 00:12:21,400 --> 00:12:26,240 but this ancient partnership between dog and man is almost at an end. 198 00:12:26,240 --> 00:12:28,960 There are less than 40 hunters using 199 00:12:28,960 --> 00:12:30,440 dog sleds in Qaanaaq. 200 00:12:30,440 --> 00:12:32,440 Rasmus and his team are among 201 00:12:32,440 --> 00:12:34,040 the last of their kind. 202 00:12:38,600 --> 00:12:41,960 I always have mixed feelings when I set out on a hunt. 203 00:12:41,960 --> 00:12:44,480 I have deep respect for nature, 204 00:12:44,480 --> 00:12:46,000 but death has always been 205 00:12:46,000 --> 00:12:47,720 an intrinsic part of life 206 00:12:47,720 --> 00:12:49,200 this far north. 207 00:12:50,480 --> 00:12:54,640 Traditionally, in this part of the world, hunting was everything. 208 00:12:54,640 --> 00:12:57,240 There's very little gathering here. There's no trees 209 00:12:57,240 --> 00:13:00,160 to chop your firewood. Even the warmth in your tent or shelter 210 00:13:00,160 --> 00:13:02,920 at night was from the blubber of the seals and the whales. 211 00:13:02,920 --> 00:13:05,840 The clothing, the sledges, 212 00:13:05,840 --> 00:13:08,720 traditionally were made from the animals themselves. 213 00:13:08,720 --> 00:13:11,880 And of course, things are changing now and you can buy stuff in town, 214 00:13:11,880 --> 00:13:14,880 but these guys are still hunters. That's what they do. 215 00:13:14,880 --> 00:13:18,560 They are out and they feed their families from the food that they get 216 00:13:18,560 --> 00:13:21,320 from hunting. So, this trip is really important. 217 00:13:21,320 --> 00:13:23,800 It's not just a little look at the past, 218 00:13:23,800 --> 00:13:26,000 this is what they're doing still today 219 00:13:26,000 --> 00:13:28,440 and, as a result, I really hope we get something. 220 00:13:31,800 --> 00:13:34,640 Rasmus says it's almost two days' travelling 221 00:13:34,640 --> 00:13:36,640 to the walrus hunting grounds, 222 00:13:36,640 --> 00:13:38,080 so I've got plenty of time 223 00:13:38,080 --> 00:13:39,720 to soak up the scenery. 224 00:13:43,640 --> 00:13:45,640 After many hours travelling across 225 00:13:45,640 --> 00:13:47,280 the ice, we stop for the night 226 00:13:47,280 --> 00:13:49,440 at a hut on the edge of the fjord. 227 00:13:49,440 --> 00:13:51,800 Come on. This way. 228 00:13:53,000 --> 00:13:55,760 First thing, always, 229 00:13:55,760 --> 00:13:59,920 after a long day like this, you've got to sort the dogs out, 230 00:13:59,920 --> 00:14:03,200 cos they are our life source, 231 00:14:03,200 --> 00:14:06,040 our lifeblood, and they need feeding, 232 00:14:06,040 --> 00:14:09,600 separating, sorting. 233 00:14:09,600 --> 00:14:11,760 BARKING AND YELPING 234 00:14:11,760 --> 00:14:14,160 It's walrus on the menu for the dogs, 235 00:14:14,160 --> 00:14:17,160 but I'm treated to another local speciality - 236 00:14:17,160 --> 00:14:18,920 raw narwhal fin. 237 00:14:18,920 --> 00:14:21,120 DOGS YELP 238 00:14:23,960 --> 00:14:25,400 Gives you strength? Mm. 239 00:14:27,600 --> 00:14:29,720 Mm! 240 00:14:29,720 --> 00:14:31,200 Mm... 241 00:14:31,200 --> 00:14:32,960 Rubbery. 242 00:14:32,960 --> 00:14:34,360 Cold. 243 00:14:36,560 --> 00:14:38,040 Thank you. 244 00:14:41,280 --> 00:14:44,080 A sort of blubber sandwich, with a bit of rubber either side... 245 00:14:45,960 --> 00:14:48,400 ..but strangely tasty! 246 00:14:52,480 --> 00:14:55,080 You did? With a harpoon? Mm. 247 00:14:55,080 --> 00:14:56,600 And then shoot? Mm. 248 00:14:56,600 --> 00:14:59,280 OK. And then pulled in? Mm. 249 00:14:59,280 --> 00:15:00,800 Wow. 250 00:15:09,000 --> 00:15:11,360 Is this the halibut from yesterday? Mm. 251 00:15:11,360 --> 00:15:13,680 Yeah? Yeah? Mm. Wow. 252 00:15:13,680 --> 00:15:15,400 Perfect end to a great day. 253 00:15:16,800 --> 00:15:19,720 Halibut curry. Nice and hot. 254 00:15:21,440 --> 00:15:23,520 And a great little hut to sleep in. 255 00:15:25,800 --> 00:15:27,640 The dogs will all sleep outside, 256 00:15:27,640 --> 00:15:30,040 perfectly warm with their thick coats, 257 00:15:30,040 --> 00:15:31,960 guarding us against polar bears. 258 00:15:35,280 --> 00:15:39,120 Just nipped out of the camp to come and have a wee, 259 00:15:39,120 --> 00:15:42,080 and, er... 260 00:15:42,080 --> 00:15:43,800 broad daylight... 261 00:15:43,800 --> 00:15:46,400 and the time is midnight. 262 00:15:46,400 --> 00:15:50,400 I am truly in the Land of the Midnight Sun, 263 00:15:50,400 --> 00:15:52,160 and how glorious! 264 00:15:52,160 --> 00:15:56,080 Of course, in the winter, they have the reverse. 265 00:15:56,080 --> 00:15:57,880 Four months of the year - 266 00:15:57,880 --> 00:15:59,520 complete darkness. 267 00:15:59,520 --> 00:16:01,480 I'm quite pleased I'm here now. 268 00:16:02,640 --> 00:16:04,160 Unbelievable. 269 00:16:10,720 --> 00:16:12,600 Another glorious sunny day. 270 00:16:12,600 --> 00:16:14,800 All the dogs working perfectly. 271 00:16:14,800 --> 00:16:16,600 And we're plodding away, 272 00:16:16,600 --> 00:16:19,040 getting closer to the hunting grounds. 273 00:16:29,000 --> 00:16:33,480 After a few hours, we head into a patch of freezing fog. 274 00:16:33,480 --> 00:16:36,840 I can begin to feel, sort of... 275 00:16:36,840 --> 00:16:39,240 crystals of... 276 00:16:39,240 --> 00:16:41,360 ice in the air. 277 00:16:41,360 --> 00:16:45,000 We're quickly enveloped by tiny ice particles. 278 00:16:45,000 --> 00:16:46,840 As they sparkle in the sunlight, 279 00:16:46,840 --> 00:16:48,880 it feels like we're travelling 280 00:16:48,880 --> 00:16:50,760 through a cloud of glitter. 281 00:16:52,440 --> 00:16:54,640 Then, I hear the distant sound 282 00:16:54,640 --> 00:16:56,400 of sea birds. 283 00:16:58,160 --> 00:17:01,880 Wow! Open water, by the looks of it. 284 00:17:01,880 --> 00:17:05,600 Finally, we've reached the edge of the ice. 285 00:17:05,600 --> 00:17:07,600 It's just so surreal. 286 00:17:07,600 --> 00:17:11,160 So still and serene. 287 00:17:11,160 --> 00:17:13,760 Untouched by humans, frankly. 288 00:17:13,760 --> 00:17:18,120 No tin cans and shopping trolleys in this stretch of water. 289 00:17:19,360 --> 00:17:22,680 It's breathtakingly beautiful, 290 00:17:22,680 --> 00:17:24,640 but there's no sign of walrus, 291 00:17:24,640 --> 00:17:27,720 and Paulos says we can't go any further. 292 00:17:40,680 --> 00:17:45,120 The sea ice has melted much earlier than the hunters expected. 293 00:17:45,120 --> 00:17:48,080 There's no chance of us getting anything here. 294 00:17:50,200 --> 00:17:53,400 Man and dog could do with a rest, so we make camp on 295 00:17:53,400 --> 00:17:55,280 a safe bit of land, not far 296 00:17:55,280 --> 00:17:57,120 from the ice edge. 297 00:17:57,120 --> 00:17:59,880 Wow! It looks great! 298 00:17:59,880 --> 00:18:02,200 We're just settling down for the night 299 00:18:02,200 --> 00:18:05,280 when we see dog sleds on the horizon. 300 00:18:05,280 --> 00:18:08,680 One minute, you think you're the only people in the entire world 301 00:18:08,680 --> 00:18:12,280 and then, suddenly, you're overwhelmed with dog sled teams. 302 00:18:12,280 --> 00:18:15,000 And a boat, of all things! 303 00:18:15,000 --> 00:18:20,040 This new hunting team has come prepared for open water. 304 00:18:20,040 --> 00:18:24,080 They're going to head out to sea first thing tomorrow morning. 305 00:18:26,200 --> 00:18:31,000 Everyone's up early. Walrus have been spotted a mile or so offshore. 306 00:18:35,920 --> 00:18:40,360 The new hunters invite Mads Ole and I to join one of the boats, 307 00:18:40,360 --> 00:18:42,560 but on two conditions. 308 00:18:42,560 --> 00:18:45,520 First, that I wear Inuit cold-weather gear. 309 00:18:45,520 --> 00:18:48,840 They don't want a freezing foreigner on their hands. 310 00:18:48,840 --> 00:18:53,480 Second, the film crew must stay on shore. 311 00:18:53,480 --> 00:18:55,280 Over to my little camera now. 312 00:18:55,280 --> 00:18:57,480 Leaving everyone else behind. 313 00:19:05,040 --> 00:19:06,360 Harpoon. 314 00:19:08,040 --> 00:19:10,800 Weapons at the ready. 315 00:19:10,800 --> 00:19:13,200 This really is a hunting trip. 316 00:19:22,360 --> 00:19:25,440 Walrus are iconic Arctic animals. 317 00:19:25,440 --> 00:19:28,080 They live where pack ice meets open water, 318 00:19:28,080 --> 00:19:30,280 diving for clams and other shellfish, 319 00:19:30,280 --> 00:19:33,800 then hauling out onto ice floes to rest and sleep. 320 00:19:35,520 --> 00:19:37,960 Scanning the horizon now, 321 00:19:37,960 --> 00:19:40,160 looking for the telltale sign. 322 00:19:42,400 --> 00:19:44,520 They shouldn't be hard to spot - 323 00:19:44,520 --> 00:19:46,800 adult walrus can weigh in at more than a tonne. 324 00:19:46,800 --> 00:19:50,320 That's a lot of food for these hunters and their dogs - 325 00:19:50,320 --> 00:19:52,680 well worth risking these treacherous waters. 326 00:19:59,240 --> 00:20:02,560 We've just come into shore so that we can climb a little bit, 327 00:20:02,560 --> 00:20:05,040 get a viewpoint to look out onto the ice floes, 328 00:20:05,040 --> 00:20:08,200 see if there's any sign of life. 329 00:20:08,200 --> 00:20:10,240 No luck so far. 330 00:20:12,320 --> 00:20:16,520 It's like a layer of latex, this ice, 331 00:20:16,520 --> 00:20:18,360 and you can wobble it, 332 00:20:18,360 --> 00:20:21,040 sending little waves off. 333 00:20:21,040 --> 00:20:22,760 Quite the strangest thing. 334 00:20:27,080 --> 00:20:28,960 And, of course, 335 00:20:28,960 --> 00:20:31,520 if you stick your finger in it, 336 00:20:31,520 --> 00:20:34,280 well, you can play with it. 337 00:20:34,280 --> 00:20:37,120 The things you can do while waiting for walrus! 338 00:20:41,160 --> 00:20:44,880 They've just been up to have a look, erm... 339 00:20:44,880 --> 00:20:47,800 and there's a lot of ice out there, 340 00:20:47,800 --> 00:20:49,920 and it's coming this way, apparently. 341 00:20:49,920 --> 00:20:52,760 You can feel a little surge occasionally. 342 00:20:55,680 --> 00:20:59,640 The walrus that were seen earlier have moved off 343 00:20:59,640 --> 00:21:03,240 but, right now, that's the least of our worries. 344 00:21:03,240 --> 00:21:06,480 The tide is coming in, bringing massive chunks of sea ice with it, 345 00:21:06,480 --> 00:21:09,080 blocking our way back to the camp. 346 00:21:11,240 --> 00:21:16,400 It's a real maze, trying to make our way through all these floes. 347 00:21:16,400 --> 00:21:19,000 You go into these open-water channels, 348 00:21:19,000 --> 00:21:21,200 and then there's a dead end. You come back out, 349 00:21:21,200 --> 00:21:24,920 try and go back the way you came, then the ice has closed behind you. 350 00:21:24,920 --> 00:21:29,320 This huge mass of ice isn't giving us any real... 351 00:21:29,320 --> 00:21:31,960 any real passageways through. 352 00:21:45,000 --> 00:21:47,160 We've come to another block, 353 00:21:47,160 --> 00:21:51,360 can't seem to find our way out of this solid ice. 354 00:22:02,360 --> 00:22:05,640 All around us, our world is moving. 355 00:22:05,640 --> 00:22:09,200 The constant groan of the ice 356 00:22:09,200 --> 00:22:12,600 shifting in different directions as the wind's catching it. 357 00:22:12,600 --> 00:22:16,680 You look around and you see that everything around you is unsteady, 358 00:22:16,680 --> 00:22:18,280 moving left and right. 359 00:22:18,280 --> 00:22:20,080 HUNTERS CHAT IN GREENLANDIC 360 00:22:21,320 --> 00:22:24,120 Newest turn-up of events 361 00:22:24,120 --> 00:22:26,760 is that we're going to drag the boat 362 00:22:26,760 --> 00:22:28,240 across this floe, 363 00:22:28,240 --> 00:22:31,120 out onto the ice the other side. 364 00:22:32,640 --> 00:22:34,400 Woah-oh-oh! 365 00:22:34,400 --> 00:22:37,600 CHUCKLING 366 00:22:34,400 --> 00:22:37,600 Whoa! Oh, my God! 367 00:22:37,600 --> 00:22:40,800 That's where I was a second ago - right at the back, pushing - 368 00:22:40,800 --> 00:22:44,040 and I came to one side to get a better shot. 369 00:22:44,040 --> 00:22:45,520 I'm quite glad I did! 370 00:22:47,400 --> 00:22:49,320 OK, and we're off, 371 00:22:49,320 --> 00:22:51,200 and so are our friends. 372 00:22:52,720 --> 00:22:58,160 Spring is when the Arctic is at its most dynamic and most dangerous. 373 00:22:59,840 --> 00:23:03,240 We seem to be making some headway. 374 00:23:04,760 --> 00:23:07,440 This looks a lot more promising. 375 00:23:10,120 --> 00:23:13,320 I think we might be getting there. 376 00:23:14,880 --> 00:23:17,240 Finally, we find a way through 377 00:23:17,240 --> 00:23:19,000 and head back to camp, 378 00:23:19,000 --> 00:23:21,360 but no-one feels like celebrating. 379 00:23:21,360 --> 00:23:24,000 Sadly, we're coming back empty-handed. 380 00:23:24,000 --> 00:23:25,960 We've had to accept defeat. 381 00:23:25,960 --> 00:23:29,360 Didn't see a single thing all day. 382 00:23:29,360 --> 00:23:31,200 So, it's really disappointing, 383 00:23:31,200 --> 00:23:34,440 but it's been an extraordinary day out on the ice and the water. 384 00:23:34,440 --> 00:23:35,920 But for these guys, sad, because 385 00:23:35,920 --> 00:23:37,560 we really wanted to get something. 386 00:23:45,320 --> 00:23:48,520 The mood back at camp is pretty low. 387 00:23:48,520 --> 00:23:53,640 Paulos says it's becoming much harder to hunt at this time of year. 388 00:24:14,480 --> 00:24:17,640 The one thing I'm really picking up on here is that... 389 00:24:17,640 --> 00:24:21,000 things are changing here really very dramatically. 390 00:24:21,000 --> 00:24:25,520 This was almost a certainty that they would be able to get out on that ice, 391 00:24:25,520 --> 00:24:28,080 and now it's much warmer, it's softer, it's thinner, 392 00:24:28,080 --> 00:24:30,720 and it's shifting earlier in the year, 393 00:24:30,720 --> 00:24:35,280 so that's having a real impact on these people's lives. 394 00:24:38,360 --> 00:24:40,840 Temperatures in Greenland have risen 395 00:24:40,840 --> 00:24:44,760 by twice the global average in recent years, with dramatic impacts, 396 00:24:44,760 --> 00:24:47,760 but Mads Ole says hunting 397 00:24:47,760 --> 00:24:49,320 is the way of his ancestors 398 00:24:49,320 --> 00:24:51,920 and he's not going to give it up. 399 00:25:17,960 --> 00:25:21,240 There's no chance of getting walrus here but, tomorrow, 400 00:25:21,240 --> 00:25:24,240 the hunters want to look for seals on the ice further north. 401 00:25:27,360 --> 00:25:29,200 Rasmus has run out of walrus meat, 402 00:25:29,200 --> 00:25:30,640 so the dogs have to 403 00:25:30,640 --> 00:25:32,280 make do with dried biscuits. 404 00:25:35,440 --> 00:25:38,160 Unless we get some meat, 405 00:25:38,160 --> 00:25:41,040 we're all going to go hungry. That's the way of it out here. 406 00:25:41,040 --> 00:25:44,760 The dogs need meat and we need meat. 407 00:25:44,760 --> 00:25:49,600 So, erm, it's really serious, we've got to find something. 408 00:25:53,000 --> 00:25:55,760 DOGS HOWL AND WHINE 409 00:26:00,240 --> 00:26:04,400 Oh, that is so much better! You can't beat... 410 00:26:04,400 --> 00:26:07,600 You can't beat a good cup of tea in these conditions. 411 00:26:16,960 --> 00:26:19,600 OK. Feels good. 412 00:26:21,480 --> 00:26:23,360 Yeah? You have good teeth. 413 00:26:26,440 --> 00:26:28,000 What's that? 414 00:26:28,000 --> 00:26:30,800 You are old man. Whole man? 415 00:26:30,800 --> 00:26:33,400 Old. Old man? 416 00:26:33,400 --> 00:26:35,480 By my teeth? 417 00:26:35,480 --> 00:26:39,440 My God! That's the rudest thing anyone has ever said to me, Mads Ole, 418 00:26:39,440 --> 00:26:41,160 but I forgive you. 419 00:26:41,160 --> 00:26:42,840 THEY LAUGH 420 00:26:47,240 --> 00:26:49,080 Best bit of the day. 421 00:26:49,080 --> 00:26:51,440 Done all the boring bits... 422 00:26:53,560 --> 00:26:57,960 ..packing up the sledge, breaking camp, and now... 423 00:26:57,960 --> 00:27:00,120 it's on for the ride. 424 00:27:02,400 --> 00:27:04,640 Looking for seal today, predominantly. 425 00:27:04,640 --> 00:27:08,840 We have to spread out, so that we can observe the landscape, 426 00:27:08,840 --> 00:27:12,160 but it really is the proverbial needle in a haystack here - 427 00:27:12,160 --> 00:27:14,520 there's such an expanse of snow. 428 00:27:16,480 --> 00:27:19,600 HE CALLS TO DOGS 429 00:27:21,120 --> 00:27:24,080 Just stopping every now and then, 430 00:27:24,080 --> 00:27:26,440 scan the horizon for seals 431 00:27:26,440 --> 00:27:28,320 that might be out basking. 432 00:27:32,360 --> 00:27:34,240 BRUCE CHUCKLES 433 00:27:42,080 --> 00:27:44,760 Seal, seal. Yeah, seal. 434 00:27:44,760 --> 00:27:47,080 There's ringed seal, yeah? Yeah. 435 00:27:47,080 --> 00:27:49,560 Wow, it's a long way away. 436 00:27:49,560 --> 00:27:52,080 That's pretty impressive eyesight. 437 00:27:52,080 --> 00:27:56,400 It's only just visible with these binoculars. Mads Ole? 438 00:27:56,400 --> 00:28:00,200 Did you stop and use binos, or did you see with your eyes first? 439 00:28:01,320 --> 00:28:03,600 With your eyes? No way! 440 00:28:05,440 --> 00:28:06,760 HE GASPS 441 00:28:09,720 --> 00:28:12,920 Mads Ole is going to go and see if he can get it. 442 00:28:12,920 --> 00:28:14,400 HE WHISPERS: OK. 443 00:28:15,800 --> 00:28:17,000 Good luck. 444 00:28:19,400 --> 00:28:23,360 I'm going to stay back and make sure his dogs don't chase... 445 00:28:23,360 --> 00:28:24,960 after their boss. 446 00:28:35,880 --> 00:28:38,880 GUNSHOT AND HOWLING 447 00:28:47,640 --> 00:28:49,800 Very good shooting. 448 00:28:49,800 --> 00:28:51,520 Of course, the last thing you want 449 00:28:51,520 --> 00:28:54,920 is to maim it and for it to go into the hole. Have to get it, 450 00:28:54,920 --> 00:28:56,880 have to kill it instantly. 451 00:28:56,880 --> 00:28:58,960 And so far, that's what they've done. 452 00:29:07,880 --> 00:29:10,280 Ringed seals are very common in the Arctic. 453 00:29:10,280 --> 00:29:13,160 They're a staple for predators 454 00:29:13,160 --> 00:29:16,440 like polar bears and Inuit hunters. 455 00:29:16,440 --> 00:29:19,200 Adolf has seen two close together. 456 00:29:19,200 --> 00:29:21,520 He says I can go with him this time, 457 00:29:21,520 --> 00:29:25,600 as long as I camouflage myself by turning my anorak inside out. 458 00:29:25,600 --> 00:29:29,080 I must stay in line and keep quiet. 459 00:29:36,880 --> 00:29:38,640 GUNSHOT 460 00:29:38,640 --> 00:29:41,920 While I was with Adolf, Rasmus got a seal of his own. 461 00:29:41,920 --> 00:29:44,600 So, that's three seals... 462 00:29:46,000 --> 00:29:48,040 ..and that'll be us for the day. 463 00:29:50,040 --> 00:29:52,120 BARKING AND WHINING 464 00:29:52,120 --> 00:29:55,040 When we've eaten our fill, it's the dogs' turn. 465 00:30:03,080 --> 00:30:07,040 I tell you what, the dogs deserve all of this, 466 00:30:07,040 --> 00:30:09,680 because they've pulled us... 467 00:30:09,680 --> 00:30:11,360 I don't know, I've been measuring 468 00:30:11,360 --> 00:30:12,840 some of the distances on my GPS. 469 00:30:12,840 --> 00:30:15,440 We've gone about 60km so far, 470 00:30:15,440 --> 00:30:17,400 not including being on the boat, 471 00:30:17,400 --> 00:30:20,280 and the dogs have done all of that work. 472 00:30:20,280 --> 00:30:22,040 Hard work. 473 00:30:22,040 --> 00:30:24,280 They deserve every bit of this. 474 00:30:24,280 --> 00:30:25,800 Good for them. 475 00:30:25,800 --> 00:30:27,920 Well done, boys and girls. 476 00:30:30,680 --> 00:30:34,520 Though rising temperatures are makings things unpredictable, 477 00:30:34,520 --> 00:30:38,760 Rasmus is more worried about limits on the animals he can kill. 478 00:30:38,760 --> 00:30:41,200 New quotas have recently been introduced, 479 00:30:41,200 --> 00:30:44,360 and he blames pressure from animal rights campaigners. 480 00:31:31,840 --> 00:31:34,720 It's time to head back to Qaanaaq. 481 00:31:34,720 --> 00:31:36,440 We didn't get any big animals, 482 00:31:36,440 --> 00:31:38,720 but at least we're not going home empty-handed. 483 00:31:40,120 --> 00:31:44,120 When I came here, I thought that the hunters would see climate change 484 00:31:44,120 --> 00:31:46,720 as the biggest threat to their way of life. 485 00:31:46,720 --> 00:31:51,080 I'm shocked that they are more worried about conservationists. 486 00:31:51,080 --> 00:31:53,040 But with so many pressures on both 487 00:31:53,040 --> 00:31:55,080 wildlife and the Inuit, 488 00:31:55,080 --> 00:31:56,400 I wonder how long 489 00:31:56,400 --> 00:31:59,200 this kind of hunting will continue. 490 00:32:00,720 --> 00:32:03,560 After a long day travelling across the ice, 491 00:32:03,560 --> 00:32:05,560 we finally pull into town. 492 00:32:08,520 --> 00:32:11,200 I'm really looking forward to a hot shower. 493 00:32:12,160 --> 00:32:14,280 Yeah, I think I might get changed! 494 00:32:14,280 --> 00:32:15,760 BRUCE CHUCKLES 495 00:32:15,760 --> 00:32:17,760 Get rid of this. 496 00:32:17,760 --> 00:32:21,760 Nice stuff, mate. No, I really enjoyed it. Thanks. You're a star. 497 00:32:25,920 --> 00:32:30,880 Life out on the sea ice felt timeless and ancient, 498 00:32:30,880 --> 00:32:33,880 but town is much more familiar. 499 00:32:33,880 --> 00:32:36,440 Rasmus is going to the supermarket 500 00:32:36,440 --> 00:32:39,000 to stock up on supplies for his next hunting trip. 501 00:32:39,000 --> 00:32:41,120 Ha-ha! 502 00:32:41,120 --> 00:32:43,200 Now, I really wasn't expecting this. 503 00:32:43,200 --> 00:32:44,760 First impressions? 504 00:32:44,760 --> 00:32:47,240 I could be anywhere in the world. 505 00:32:52,440 --> 00:32:54,840 I said we could be anywhere in the world, 506 00:32:54,840 --> 00:32:58,520 but having bullets, rounds, next to the Rizla 507 00:32:58,520 --> 00:33:01,960 isn't quite the same as back home! 508 00:33:01,960 --> 00:33:03,480 Let's keep going. 509 00:33:04,480 --> 00:33:08,600 Milk. And this is powdered. 510 00:33:08,600 --> 00:33:11,280 Where's the price? 90. 90?! 511 00:33:11,280 --> 00:33:14,640 Wow! You need some cows up here. Mm. 512 00:33:14,640 --> 00:33:16,760 It's 12 quid. 513 00:33:16,760 --> 00:33:18,440 13 kroner. 514 00:33:18,440 --> 00:33:23,480 That's nearly £2 for a vegetable that, quite frankly, 515 00:33:23,480 --> 00:33:25,600 has been on the shelf a while. 516 00:33:25,600 --> 00:33:29,000 Pretty much what I would expect, actually, considering where we are. 517 00:33:29,000 --> 00:33:31,800 You can't grow this stuff. It comes a long, long way. 518 00:33:31,800 --> 00:33:34,680 It's going to cost, doesn't last. 519 00:33:34,680 --> 00:33:36,520 That's the way of it. 520 00:33:36,520 --> 00:33:38,640 But the price of fruit and veg 521 00:33:38,640 --> 00:33:40,400 is nothing compared to meat. 522 00:33:40,400 --> 00:33:43,200 What's this? Lamb. Oh, lamb. 523 00:33:43,200 --> 00:33:45,160 257. Yeah... 524 00:33:45,160 --> 00:33:47,600 £35 for a few chops. 525 00:33:47,600 --> 00:33:49,880 Most of this was shipped up 526 00:33:49,880 --> 00:33:52,080 from Europe almost a year ago. 527 00:33:52,080 --> 00:33:54,840 It seems mad to be importing frozen meat 528 00:33:54,840 --> 00:33:57,360 when there are thousands of seals out on the ice. 529 00:33:57,360 --> 00:34:02,840 If Qaanaaq loses its hunters, it loses its main supply of fresh food. 530 00:34:02,840 --> 00:34:04,600 Yet more empty shelves. 531 00:34:04,600 --> 00:34:07,120 By far the most expensive things in the supermarket 532 00:34:07,120 --> 00:34:08,800 are local delicacies. 533 00:34:08,800 --> 00:34:10,080 Narwhal. Mm. 534 00:34:15,920 --> 00:34:19,360 OK, you need to be earning 20 quid to get that. 535 00:34:19,360 --> 00:34:21,080 We were eating a whole 536 00:34:21,080 --> 00:34:22,840 narwhal fin earlier. 537 00:34:22,840 --> 00:34:25,520 Rasmus, if you catch a whole narwhal, 538 00:34:25,520 --> 00:34:27,680 or you're very successful in the hunt, 539 00:34:27,680 --> 00:34:30,160 you can actually earn quite a lot of money. Is that true? 540 00:34:47,440 --> 00:34:50,520 Commercial hunting can threaten species, 541 00:34:50,520 --> 00:34:54,280 but I understand that Rasmus needs cash to live in town, 542 00:34:54,280 --> 00:34:57,000 yet can earn very little from hunting. 543 00:34:57,000 --> 00:34:59,800 The family can only afford to shop here because of the income 544 00:34:59,800 --> 00:35:02,560 from Mahlia's job as a teacher. 545 00:35:02,560 --> 00:35:04,400 Rasmus is caught between two worlds, 546 00:35:04,400 --> 00:35:07,600 the traditional and the modern. 547 00:35:07,600 --> 00:35:10,400 I've seen how expensive your supermarket is, Rasmus. 548 00:35:10,400 --> 00:35:12,360 It's mind-blowing. 549 00:35:12,360 --> 00:35:14,720 Is it easy to make a living as a hunter? 550 00:35:32,240 --> 00:35:35,600 It's not just the supermarket that's expensive. 551 00:35:35,600 --> 00:35:38,400 Rasmus and Mahlia need to pay for their heating, 552 00:35:38,400 --> 00:35:40,120 water and electricity. 553 00:35:40,120 --> 00:35:42,000 The high cost of living is forcing 554 00:35:42,000 --> 00:35:46,200 more and more hunters to look for paid work. 555 00:35:46,200 --> 00:35:48,800 But if you're a skilful hunter, you can certainly get by. 556 00:35:48,800 --> 00:35:51,280 Someone has just returned with a prize kill, 557 00:35:51,280 --> 00:35:54,680 and a crowd gathers to take a look. 558 00:35:54,680 --> 00:35:56,000 Are you the hunter? 559 00:35:57,800 --> 00:35:59,040 Wow. 560 00:36:01,520 --> 00:36:03,440 No prizes for guessing what this is. 561 00:36:05,800 --> 00:36:09,160 I know that you wear the fur. 562 00:36:09,160 --> 00:36:12,440 What else are you going to do with the body parts of this animal? 563 00:36:21,680 --> 00:36:24,200 Does it taste good? Tasty? 564 00:36:31,160 --> 00:36:33,240 Each year, six polar bears 565 00:36:33,240 --> 00:36:36,040 can legally be killed in the Qaanaaq area, 566 00:36:36,040 --> 00:36:38,120 compared with 85 narwhal, 567 00:36:38,120 --> 00:36:41,920 but scientists still say the local bear population 568 00:36:41,920 --> 00:36:44,000 is almost certainly in decline. 569 00:36:44,000 --> 00:36:45,720 Can you imagine a future 570 00:36:45,720 --> 00:36:47,280 when you were told that 571 00:36:47,280 --> 00:36:49,360 you were not allowed to hunt polar bear? 572 00:37:04,920 --> 00:37:07,040 This is about much more than 573 00:37:07,040 --> 00:37:10,320 warm clothing and nice meat. It's an assertion of the right 574 00:37:10,320 --> 00:37:13,120 to live here as they have done for millennia. 575 00:37:13,120 --> 00:37:16,760 The hunters say that it's the industrial nations' way of life 576 00:37:16,760 --> 00:37:21,360 and our excesses that are endangering the polar bears, not them. 577 00:37:23,160 --> 00:37:26,360 I respect always the rights of indigenous peoples. 578 00:37:26,360 --> 00:37:28,240 I think they are better placed 579 00:37:28,240 --> 00:37:30,280 to know how to treat the environment 580 00:37:30,280 --> 00:37:33,080 than most of the nation states and the corporations out there. 581 00:37:33,080 --> 00:37:35,120 Having said that, of course, 582 00:37:35,120 --> 00:37:38,560 indigenous peoples are part of the larger world 583 00:37:38,560 --> 00:37:41,080 and they need to know that, and we all need to work together 584 00:37:41,080 --> 00:37:43,680 on many issues. So... 585 00:37:43,680 --> 00:37:46,360 I don't know what I think about them shooting a polar bear. 586 00:37:46,360 --> 00:37:48,440 I think that it's really important for them. 587 00:37:48,440 --> 00:37:51,400 I've just been wearing polar bear trousers all last week. 588 00:37:51,400 --> 00:37:53,240 I understand the reason why, 589 00:37:53,240 --> 00:37:55,360 culturally, these people 590 00:37:55,360 --> 00:37:57,440 are still hunting this. 591 00:37:57,440 --> 00:38:00,080 I find it hard to stand here holding a polar bear 592 00:38:00,080 --> 00:38:02,680 because I'd rather it was still alive, 593 00:38:02,680 --> 00:38:05,520 but I'm not out there in the freezing cold, 594 00:38:05,520 --> 00:38:07,160 trying to make a... Trying to 595 00:38:07,160 --> 00:38:09,760 feed my family from hunting. 596 00:38:11,040 --> 00:38:14,480 Greenland is now a technologically developed country. 597 00:38:14,480 --> 00:38:17,320 The hunters are no longer isolated. 598 00:38:17,320 --> 00:38:20,840 They have rifles and bullets from the outside world, 599 00:38:20,840 --> 00:38:24,760 so perhaps they have to come to terms with outside restrictions too. 600 00:38:24,760 --> 00:38:27,960 But I hope that some are able 601 00:38:27,960 --> 00:38:31,560 to continue hunting. They're more than just a source of fresh meat. 602 00:38:31,560 --> 00:38:33,360 They act as a cultural anchor 603 00:38:33,360 --> 00:38:35,120 for the whole community. 604 00:38:35,120 --> 00:38:36,920 They connect people here 605 00:38:36,920 --> 00:38:38,960 to their ancestors and provide 606 00:38:38,960 --> 00:38:41,880 some protection against the social changes 607 00:38:41,880 --> 00:38:44,400 that are sweeping through Greenland. 608 00:38:44,400 --> 00:38:46,880 It's time to journey south. 609 00:38:46,880 --> 00:38:48,760 I want to find out more about 610 00:38:48,760 --> 00:38:51,360 Greenland's rapid modernisation. 611 00:38:51,360 --> 00:38:54,640 Qaanaaq has given me a glimpse of Greenland's past, 612 00:38:54,640 --> 00:38:57,000 now I want to look into its future. 613 00:38:59,000 --> 00:39:01,120 It's been really lovely to get to know you, 614 00:39:01,120 --> 00:39:02,880 and thanks for all your hospitality. 615 00:39:02,880 --> 00:39:05,880 Rasmus, this is one question I've never asked you. 616 00:39:05,880 --> 00:39:08,760 What does your future hold? Are you going to stay a hunter? 617 00:39:28,240 --> 00:39:30,560 Stay well, mate. Stay well. 618 00:39:36,320 --> 00:39:38,560 All cultures are dynamic, 619 00:39:38,560 --> 00:39:42,360 but rapid change, as a result of strong external forces, 620 00:39:42,360 --> 00:39:44,440 can be devastating. 621 00:39:44,440 --> 00:39:46,720 I wish my friend well. 622 00:39:52,600 --> 00:39:55,400 With every degree of latitude I fly south, 623 00:39:55,400 --> 00:39:57,760 the temperature increases, 624 00:39:57,760 --> 00:40:00,960 and you can really see the difference. 625 00:40:00,960 --> 00:40:02,640 We haven't been flying long 626 00:40:02,640 --> 00:40:06,400 but, already, there are telltale signs of the ice-pack breaking up. 627 00:40:06,400 --> 00:40:08,880 And ahead of me, I can see that 628 00:40:08,880 --> 00:40:10,640 it's really quite dramatic. 629 00:40:10,640 --> 00:40:12,840 It's not just the sea ice 630 00:40:12,840 --> 00:40:14,480 that's being affected. 631 00:40:14,480 --> 00:40:17,560 Most of Greenland is covered by a vast ice sheet. 632 00:40:17,560 --> 00:40:21,880 In recent years, this has been melting at an unprecedented rate, 633 00:40:21,880 --> 00:40:25,240 revealing new land and new riches. 634 00:40:26,760 --> 00:40:28,720 I'm flying halfway down the coast, 635 00:40:28,720 --> 00:40:30,240 to Disko Bay. 636 00:40:30,240 --> 00:40:32,080 This region is rich in oil, 637 00:40:32,080 --> 00:40:33,960 metal ores and gemstones. 638 00:40:33,960 --> 00:40:35,440 The more ice melts, 639 00:40:35,440 --> 00:40:38,120 the more investment pours in. 640 00:40:38,120 --> 00:40:42,080 The Greenlandic government hopes that the wealth and jobs created 641 00:40:42,080 --> 00:40:45,280 as the ice retreats will seal the island's transformation 642 00:40:45,280 --> 00:40:49,000 into a modern economy and buy it full independence from Denmark. 643 00:40:54,240 --> 00:40:57,000 Hey, how you doing? Can I come in? 644 00:40:57,000 --> 00:40:59,040 Come on in! Thanks, mate. 645 00:41:02,320 --> 00:41:04,640 I'm heading into the wilderness again 646 00:41:04,640 --> 00:41:08,000 but, this time, I have a very different guide. 647 00:41:08,000 --> 00:41:10,480 Tim Daffern is an Australian, 648 00:41:10,480 --> 00:41:12,920 and he's a mining entrepreneur. 649 00:41:14,600 --> 00:41:16,680 This is like a taxi to work for you, Tim! 650 00:41:16,680 --> 00:41:19,720 It's a beautiful place. It's a lot of challenges, 651 00:41:19,720 --> 00:41:22,360 but I just love coming to work here. It's fantastic. 652 00:41:28,160 --> 00:41:30,680 Well, fundamentally, where we're flying now, 653 00:41:30,680 --> 00:41:32,600 if you went back ten years ago - 654 00:41:32,600 --> 00:41:36,880 and certainly 25, 30 years ago - we'd be flying over solid ice. 655 00:41:36,880 --> 00:41:39,200 The change is, the ice has gone. 656 00:41:39,200 --> 00:41:41,640 What that's allowed us to do is to expand 657 00:41:41,640 --> 00:41:43,480 our geological exploration work. 658 00:41:43,480 --> 00:41:46,200 When you've got 80 metres or a couple of hundred metres of ice, 659 00:41:46,200 --> 00:41:48,720 you can't see the rock. Five years ago, 660 00:41:48,720 --> 00:41:51,920 while hiking on these rocks, Tim and a colleague 661 00:41:51,920 --> 00:41:55,160 discovered a billion-dollar deposit of lead and zinc 662 00:41:55,160 --> 00:41:57,360 that had been covered by glacial ice. 663 00:41:57,360 --> 00:42:00,960 We are now in an area that, 20 years ago, was... 664 00:42:00,960 --> 00:42:04,680 There was 60 metres of ice above us. 60 metres of ice. 665 00:42:04,680 --> 00:42:07,280 All that has gone for a kilometre, 666 00:42:07,280 --> 00:42:09,480 revealing your riches. Correct. 667 00:42:11,000 --> 00:42:14,960 After this discovery, Tim and his business partners formed a company, 668 00:42:14,960 --> 00:42:18,400 secured investment and leased the land and mineral rights 669 00:42:18,400 --> 00:42:20,480 from the Greenlandic government. 670 00:42:20,480 --> 00:42:22,920 The mine is still in development 671 00:42:22,920 --> 00:42:25,520 and access is tricky, to say the least. 672 00:42:27,120 --> 00:42:29,560 The entrance is down here, below us. 673 00:42:29,560 --> 00:42:33,960 Beneath us? Yes! We're going to be going down these ladders here. OK. 674 00:42:33,960 --> 00:42:36,000 We've got about 120 metres vertically to go. 675 00:42:36,000 --> 00:42:37,600 You didn't tell me about that, Tim. 676 00:42:37,600 --> 00:42:41,320 Well, you know, I've got to leave a few surprises for you. 677 00:42:47,920 --> 00:42:50,120 Wow! 678 00:42:50,120 --> 00:42:54,240 The first little bit where it gets very precipitous. 679 00:42:54,240 --> 00:42:57,440 I'm just looking over the edge now. 680 00:42:57,440 --> 00:42:59,520 Really don't want to be falling here! 681 00:43:03,040 --> 00:43:06,240 The zinc face is at the end of a long tunnel, 682 00:43:06,240 --> 00:43:09,400 carved out by high explosives. 683 00:43:09,400 --> 00:43:11,520 EXPLOSION 684 00:43:09,400 --> 00:43:11,520 You just heard the blast 685 00:43:11,520 --> 00:43:14,120 where the guys are doing some excavation work. 686 00:43:14,120 --> 00:43:16,320 I felt the blast! Yeah, you can feel it. 687 00:43:16,320 --> 00:43:18,280 It pushes the air past you. Yeah. 688 00:43:22,120 --> 00:43:24,080 Here's a pretty good sample. Excuse me. 689 00:43:25,480 --> 00:43:28,200 You can see the sparkling, here. 690 00:43:28,200 --> 00:43:30,440 This is a really nice piece of 691 00:43:30,440 --> 00:43:32,160 sphalerite. High-grade zinc. 692 00:43:34,000 --> 00:43:37,640 Zinc doesn't rust, so it's used to coat steel. 693 00:43:37,640 --> 00:43:39,160 There's a growing demand for it 694 00:43:39,160 --> 00:43:42,200 in the booming economies of India and China. 695 00:43:45,960 --> 00:43:47,600 What we've got here is 696 00:43:47,600 --> 00:43:49,680 a really nice example of galena, 697 00:43:49,680 --> 00:43:50,960 which is a lead. 698 00:43:50,960 --> 00:43:54,480 It's got quite a shiny, metallic look to it. Hasn't it just? 699 00:43:54,480 --> 00:43:56,320 In today's terms, 700 00:43:56,320 --> 00:43:58,840 the amount of metal in this pillar 701 00:43:58,840 --> 00:44:00,600 is about $1.5 million. 702 00:44:00,600 --> 00:44:03,840 There are 1,000 of them in this mine. Wow! 703 00:44:03,840 --> 00:44:07,520 Our estimate of the remaining worth 704 00:44:07,520 --> 00:44:10,560 is in excess of $1 billion-worth of metal. 705 00:44:10,560 --> 00:44:12,200 Wow! 706 00:44:12,200 --> 00:44:16,360 I know that lead can be very damaging in the environment 707 00:44:16,360 --> 00:44:19,120 if tipped into fuel, for example. 708 00:44:19,120 --> 00:44:20,720 What's the toxicity of zinc? 709 00:44:20,720 --> 00:44:24,000 Zinc is not as bad, but it is damaging to the environment. 710 00:44:24,000 --> 00:44:25,960 One thing we're very careful to do 711 00:44:25,960 --> 00:44:28,680 is make sure all our processing is here, underground. 712 00:44:28,680 --> 00:44:33,720 We have no waste - liquid or solid. Nothing escapes from this mine. 713 00:44:33,720 --> 00:44:36,520 Sure. All that comes out is concentrated metal. 714 00:44:36,520 --> 00:44:40,360 It's secured in bags, inside special steel boxes, 715 00:44:40,360 --> 00:44:42,200 and then carried down across the fjord. 716 00:44:44,080 --> 00:44:47,120 I'm going to spend a day working here. 717 00:44:47,120 --> 00:44:50,040 I want to get a sense of the challenges facing these men. 718 00:44:51,160 --> 00:44:52,920 The first task is getting a cable car 719 00:44:52,920 --> 00:44:54,400 up to the tunnel entrance. 720 00:44:54,400 --> 00:44:57,880 For that, Tim needs specialists, 721 00:44:57,880 --> 00:45:00,040 and they don't come more specialised than this 722 00:45:00,040 --> 00:45:01,720 Swiss climbing and blasting team. 723 00:45:04,760 --> 00:45:06,640 Nils is in charge. 724 00:45:06,640 --> 00:45:11,160 He works 12-hour shifts, seven days a week, for months at a time, 725 00:45:11,160 --> 00:45:12,920 in very testing conditions. 726 00:45:12,920 --> 00:45:16,240 You see out there, this rock face? 727 00:45:16,240 --> 00:45:19,440 Yes. We have to clean that rock face. 728 00:45:19,440 --> 00:45:23,080 How do we get there? We have to climb up the ladder again, 729 00:45:23,080 --> 00:45:26,560 cross, and then abseil. Wonderful! 730 00:45:26,560 --> 00:45:29,440 You've got all the best jobs for me! Yeah, of course! 731 00:45:37,520 --> 00:45:41,200 I think I'm about to get vertigo. 732 00:45:43,760 --> 00:45:47,360 The blasting has loosened the rocks above the work area, 733 00:45:47,360 --> 00:45:50,280 making it very dangerous for the people below. 734 00:45:51,800 --> 00:45:53,840 Because we've got so much daylight here, 735 00:45:53,840 --> 00:45:58,480 there's going to be people working here all through the night. 736 00:45:58,480 --> 00:46:03,000 And it's so important that all this area is clear, 737 00:46:03,000 --> 00:46:05,880 because the size of some of these pieces coming out 738 00:46:05,880 --> 00:46:08,760 would kill you, without question, if they landed on you. 739 00:46:08,760 --> 00:46:12,600 Be careful with your leg. Yeah. I'll try. 740 00:46:17,800 --> 00:46:21,800 Woo! Wow! Good work! 741 00:46:21,800 --> 00:46:24,160 Good work! Well done. Yeah. 742 00:46:24,160 --> 00:46:27,960 Fun, isn't it? OK, I concede, that was fun! 743 00:46:27,960 --> 00:46:30,680 Nils is a real Arctic adventurer. 744 00:46:30,680 --> 00:46:34,160 He works hard for a few months, then takes the rest of the year off, 745 00:46:34,160 --> 00:46:36,760 travelling the world and climbing for fun. 746 00:46:39,920 --> 00:46:41,800 What do you think, Nils, 747 00:46:41,800 --> 00:46:44,200 here, or in an office? 748 00:46:44,200 --> 00:46:45,480 Here! 749 00:46:45,480 --> 00:46:47,000 BRUCE LAUGHS 750 00:46:47,000 --> 00:46:49,080 This is your preferred workplace, 751 00:46:49,080 --> 00:46:51,760 hanging from a rope, in the outdoors? 752 00:46:51,760 --> 00:46:54,520 Yeah. I can see why. 753 00:46:54,520 --> 00:46:57,720 The last job of the day is even more risky. 754 00:46:57,720 --> 00:46:59,840 This is the danger - 755 00:46:59,840 --> 00:47:02,120 detonator, dynamite. 756 00:47:02,120 --> 00:47:04,720 When you put them together... 757 00:47:04,720 --> 00:47:07,800 You said bend it? Yes, exactly. I can bend it and push it. 758 00:47:07,800 --> 00:47:11,640 Feels a bit incongruous, but I'm going to trust him. 759 00:47:12,800 --> 00:47:14,480 And, er, here we go. 760 00:47:14,480 --> 00:47:16,800 So, this one goes in. 761 00:47:16,800 --> 00:47:19,120 And I guide that with the stick. 762 00:47:19,120 --> 00:47:20,920 Yep. Thanks. 763 00:47:24,920 --> 00:47:27,920 And I hit that hard? Hard, yeah. 764 00:47:27,920 --> 00:47:30,800 That's the bit that's weird. 765 00:47:30,800 --> 00:47:32,400 That's good. Good enough. 766 00:47:33,480 --> 00:47:37,000 How did Bruce go? Well, he was stupid enough to think 767 00:47:37,000 --> 00:47:42,960 that it was a good idea to bang dynamite and detonators together. 768 00:47:42,960 --> 00:47:46,240 NILS SPEAKS ON RADIO 769 00:47:46,240 --> 00:47:48,400 Everything's done? Everything is done. 770 00:47:48,400 --> 00:47:50,520 Press the button? You can press the button. 771 00:47:50,520 --> 00:47:52,440 If something goes wrong, it's your fault! 772 00:47:52,440 --> 00:47:56,680 Because you drilled some holes as well. Don't you start on me! 773 00:47:56,680 --> 00:47:58,560 OK. Are you ready for this? 774 00:47:58,560 --> 00:48:00,760 I certainly am. Press and hold, 775 00:48:00,760 --> 00:48:02,600 green light. One, two... 776 00:48:02,600 --> 00:48:04,320 BLAST 777 00:48:09,320 --> 00:48:11,320 Everything's changed, 778 00:48:11,320 --> 00:48:13,920 and it certainly has. 779 00:48:13,920 --> 00:48:16,440 Once this area has been opened up, 780 00:48:16,440 --> 00:48:18,240 the cable car will be installed, 781 00:48:18,240 --> 00:48:21,560 and then the mining will begin in earnest. 782 00:48:21,560 --> 00:48:24,360 Though most of the set-up is being done by outsiders, 783 00:48:24,360 --> 00:48:28,080 there are a few local Inuit men doing unskilled jobs. 784 00:48:28,080 --> 00:48:30,680 Hi, gents, my name's Bruce. 785 00:48:30,680 --> 00:48:33,520 Gideon. Gideon? Yeah. Hi, Gideon... 786 00:48:33,520 --> 00:48:36,880 I ask Lars Ole how this compares with traditional life. 787 00:49:17,640 --> 00:49:21,880 When the mine is operational, it will employ 120 local people, 788 00:49:21,880 --> 00:49:24,960 with many more working in related industries. 789 00:49:26,480 --> 00:49:29,360 Though I've seen the devastation mining can cause 790 00:49:29,360 --> 00:49:32,920 in other parts of the world, this feels more responsible. 791 00:49:36,440 --> 00:49:39,560 Other mines are about to open in Greenland, 792 00:49:39,560 --> 00:49:43,920 and large deposits of oil and gas are thought to lie just north of here. 793 00:49:43,920 --> 00:49:47,520 All this could make the country rich. 794 00:49:47,520 --> 00:49:51,240 But as they move away from traditional ways of life, 795 00:49:51,240 --> 00:49:54,360 many Inuit are losing their cultural identity, 796 00:49:54,360 --> 00:49:58,280 and Greenland is suffering from a social meltdown. 797 00:49:58,280 --> 00:50:03,120 100 years ago, it had one of the lowest suicide rates in the world. 798 00:50:03,120 --> 00:50:06,000 Now, it's believed to have the highest. 799 00:50:08,280 --> 00:50:11,000 There's one last place I want to visit. 800 00:50:11,000 --> 00:50:12,920 This is Uummannaq, 801 00:50:12,920 --> 00:50:14,440 the closest town to the mine. 802 00:50:14,440 --> 00:50:18,240 It's a typical modern Greenlandic settlement, 803 00:50:18,240 --> 00:50:20,520 where people are more likely to work in an office 804 00:50:20,520 --> 00:50:22,600 than go out hunting for seals. 805 00:50:22,600 --> 00:50:25,400 Does the old way of life still have a role to play 806 00:50:25,400 --> 00:50:28,120 in such a forward-looking community? 807 00:50:28,120 --> 00:50:31,280 One man is convinced that it does. 808 00:50:32,440 --> 00:50:34,320 So, these are your dogs, here? 809 00:50:34,320 --> 00:50:37,360 Yeah, this one wants to fight a lot. This one wants to fight. 810 00:50:37,360 --> 00:50:42,120 Ole Jorgen Hammeken embodies both the old and new Greenland. 811 00:50:42,120 --> 00:50:43,640 He grew up in the capital city 812 00:50:43,640 --> 00:50:45,800 to the south and studied law in Denmark, 813 00:50:45,800 --> 00:50:51,000 but almost 20 years ago, he moved here and bought a dog team instead. 814 00:50:51,000 --> 00:50:54,480 In-between hunting trips, he recently starred in a feature film, 815 00:50:54,480 --> 00:50:56,320 and he's just at home on a red carpet 816 00:50:56,320 --> 00:50:58,280 as he is out on the ice. 817 00:50:59,880 --> 00:51:01,520 You're interesting, Ole Jorgen. 818 00:51:01,520 --> 00:51:04,280 You're a film star, you were born in the south, 819 00:51:04,280 --> 00:51:05,800 you're a very modern person, yet 820 00:51:05,800 --> 00:51:07,920 you are very interested in 821 00:51:07,920 --> 00:51:11,680 traditional ways and you're very proud of your cultural heritage. 822 00:51:11,680 --> 00:51:15,080 Yeah. I was able to be born in this part of the world 823 00:51:15,080 --> 00:51:18,600 and I think that's fantastic. I mean, without... 824 00:51:18,600 --> 00:51:21,560 our ancestors, we wouldn't have been here. 825 00:51:21,560 --> 00:51:25,280 When you are born in Greenland and feel Greenlandic, 826 00:51:25,280 --> 00:51:27,760 you have this identity, I think. 827 00:51:27,760 --> 00:51:31,000 BARKING 828 00:51:31,000 --> 00:51:32,520 Shh! 829 00:51:34,040 --> 00:51:35,760 His teeth are very close to something 830 00:51:35,760 --> 00:51:37,840 I don't want him to start biting. 831 00:51:37,840 --> 00:51:39,680 Oi! Stop it! 832 00:51:46,120 --> 00:51:50,840 Ole Jorgen is working with children from Greenland's broken homes - 833 00:51:50,840 --> 00:51:54,640 the victims of the country's frenetic pace of change. 834 00:51:56,160 --> 00:51:59,440 He wants to unite the Inuits' past 835 00:51:59,440 --> 00:52:03,080 with their future, and he believes that the key lies with these men - 836 00:52:03,080 --> 00:52:05,160 the last of Uummannaq's hunters. 837 00:52:36,360 --> 00:52:39,520 That's seal skin? Wow. 838 00:52:39,520 --> 00:52:41,040 They really are good. 839 00:52:47,280 --> 00:52:49,160 They're great! 840 00:52:50,480 --> 00:52:54,440 Many of these children are victims of abuse and violence 841 00:52:54,440 --> 00:52:58,440 at the hands of alcoholic, dislocated parents. 842 00:52:58,440 --> 00:53:02,040 To show them a more tranquil way of life, Ole Jorgen takes them 843 00:53:02,040 --> 00:53:06,320 out into the wilderness, often for weeks at a time. 844 00:53:06,320 --> 00:53:09,640 It's not just hunting skills that they are learning. 845 00:53:09,640 --> 00:53:12,880 He wants them to adopt a state of mind, 846 00:53:12,880 --> 00:53:15,840 a way of being which is in tune with their surroundings. 847 00:53:23,040 --> 00:53:27,480 It was really evident to me when I was in Qaanaaq hunting, 848 00:53:27,480 --> 00:53:31,000 we were there on the dog sleds for seven days, 849 00:53:31,000 --> 00:53:34,520 and most of that time, I was sat in stillness, 850 00:53:34,520 --> 00:53:39,960 experiencing the surroundings, 851 00:53:39,960 --> 00:53:43,240 and the serenity of the surroundings. And... 852 00:53:43,240 --> 00:53:48,680 And the hunters are particularly unique beings, 853 00:53:48,680 --> 00:53:52,280 in that they really are connected to the landscape in a... 854 00:53:52,280 --> 00:53:54,680 in a tangible way, I believe, 855 00:53:54,680 --> 00:53:58,200 and that's what's being passed on here to these children. 856 00:53:58,200 --> 00:54:04,600 And that's also what many cultures are losing today, 857 00:54:04,600 --> 00:54:06,880 is that connection with the landscape, 858 00:54:06,880 --> 00:54:08,600 the connection with nature. 859 00:54:08,600 --> 00:54:13,040 And this is an attempt to try and regain that, and I really support it. 860 00:54:40,080 --> 00:54:42,640 Despite the traumas that they've endured, 861 00:54:42,640 --> 00:54:45,520 these children seem to be well on the road to recovery. 862 00:54:45,520 --> 00:54:47,320 You're not even in the snow! 863 00:54:47,320 --> 00:54:50,120 The hunters are playing a small, but significant, part 864 00:54:50,120 --> 00:54:51,600 in this process. 865 00:54:53,160 --> 00:54:56,840 In the same way, maintaining some link with their traditional past 866 00:54:56,840 --> 00:55:01,560 could help all of Greenland's Inuit to make sense of their future. 867 00:55:05,080 --> 00:55:07,720 It's time for me to leave Greenland 868 00:55:07,720 --> 00:55:11,160 and begin the next stage of my Arctic journey. 869 00:55:13,440 --> 00:55:16,440 I knew when I came here, I'd see some changes, 870 00:55:16,440 --> 00:55:21,640 but they've been much more pronounced and rapid than I was ever expecting. 871 00:55:21,640 --> 00:55:25,880 For a variety of reasons, the tradition of hunting 872 00:55:25,880 --> 00:55:28,960 is being lost to many Greenlanders 873 00:55:28,960 --> 00:55:34,680 and, with it, a state of mind going back many generations. 874 00:55:34,680 --> 00:55:38,520 Without doubt, there are plenty of challenges on the horizon here, 875 00:55:38,520 --> 00:55:42,120 and my only hope is that modern Greenlanders 876 00:55:42,120 --> 00:55:45,360 don't lose their connection to the natural world, 877 00:55:45,360 --> 00:55:49,000 here, in this stunning frozen landscape. 878 00:55:56,040 --> 00:55:58,360 Next time, I live with the pioneers 879 00:55:58,360 --> 00:56:00,040 making their fortunes 880 00:56:00,040 --> 00:56:01,600 in the Alaskan wilderness... 881 00:56:01,600 --> 00:56:04,680 You can really see that stuff, it's shining away. 882 00:56:04,680 --> 00:56:06,480 ..and I meet the indigenous people 883 00:56:06,480 --> 00:56:09,040 fighting for their ancient rights. 884 00:56:09,040 --> 00:56:12,000 If they want to stop us from whaling, we're going to fight.