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I'm travelling through the Arctic,
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00:00:11,440 --> 00:00:13,480
the Land of the Midnight Sun.
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The most amazing view.
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For thousands of years, only
the hardiest hunters and herders
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00:00:19,480 --> 00:00:22,200
lived in this inhospitable land.
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But now, the Arctic is warming
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faster than anywhere else on Earth.
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Go back. Go back.
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As it thaws,
new riches are being revealed.
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This is what
it's all about - the oil.
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All eyes are turning north.
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For one bright summer, I will
live with the people of the Arctic.
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Absolutely loving it.
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This is the real thing.
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I want to understand
how their lives are changing
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and discover what the future holds
for this great wilderness.
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MAN CALLS TO DOGS
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I'm in the far north of Greenland.
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The sun has just returned,
after the long winter night.
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This is the Arctic
of the imagination -
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a frozen land, swathed
in ice two miles deep.
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Just looking around, it's so surreal,
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it's a magical place.
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Along its rugged coast live the
most iconic of Arctic people -
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the Inuit.
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Weapons at the ready.
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This really is a hunting trip.
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How are you, my friend?
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MAN SPEAKS IN GREENLANDIC
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Ah, thank you so much.
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I live with traditional hunters
and experience the realities
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of life...
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GUNSHOT AND HOWLS
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..and death. But Greenland's
exploiting new frontiers.
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It's about to strike it big.
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EXPLOSION
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The amount of metal in this pillar
is about $1.5 million.
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This is the front line
of change in the north...
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00:01:55,040 --> 00:01:56,080
Wow!
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00:01:56,080 --> 00:02:01,880
..but is there a place for hunters
in the Arctic of the 21st century?
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WIND GUSTS AND HOWLS
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00:02:17,520 --> 00:02:21,080
I've always been fascinated
by hunter-gatherers,
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but just imagine trying
to eke out an existence
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from all that you can find in a
barren, desolate landscape like this.
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Now, for the Inuit, most of
those traditions have died away
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00:02:34,720 --> 00:02:37,640
but, amazingly,
here in the north of Greenland,
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some of those traditions
still are alive today.
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And that's why I've chosen
to come to the village of Qaanaaq.
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Greenland, a protectorate of Denmark,
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is the largest island in the world,
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but with the lowest
population density.
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A vast ice sheet covers the interior,
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and its 56,000 people are spread out
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in a few coastal settlements.
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Qaanaaq, in the far northwest,
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is one of the most remote
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and traditional.
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This is one of the last places
in Greenland
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where people still live
by subsistence hunting.
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I'm going to spend two weeks
living in this community.
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I want to learn about the traditions
of the high Arctic.
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But I also want to see how
hunters' lives are changing.
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How are you?
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How are you, my friend?
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HE SPEAKS IN GREENLANDIC
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Ah, thank you so much.
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Lovely to see you.
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Look at your sled. Amazing.
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HE SPEAKS IN GREENLANDIC
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Kamochitka? Kamochi.
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Kamochi. Sled. Kamochi. Kamochi.
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DOGS YELP AND YOWL
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00:03:47,200 --> 00:03:51,000
Rasmus, like almost 90% of
Greenlanders, is an Inuit.
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00:03:51,000 --> 00:03:54,000
His ancestors colonised
the frozen north,
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travelling from Alaska to Greenland
on sleds pulled by dogs like these.
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These are Greenland dogs, half-wild,
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often scrapping with each other,
in my experience.
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But this lot...
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they're like just any old mutt
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you'd have at home - really friendly.
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Hello there.
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One look at Mads Ole tells me
I've come to the right place
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to learn about Inuit culture.
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00:04:21,920 --> 00:04:25,480
I'm very jealous of what
you're wearing. What is this?
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Polar bear. Polar bear? Polar bear!
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And did you hunt this
polar bear yourself?
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Mm. You shoot?
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Yeah. You? OK.
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And, um, and these? Seal skin.
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Seal skin? Wow.
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Wow. And this?
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Shopping. Shopping!
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THEY CHUCKLE
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00:04:47,200 --> 00:04:50,760
A team of hunters,
led by Rasmus Avike,
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has agreed to let me tag along
on their next hunting trip.
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Will I be with you on your sledge?
HE SPEAKS IN GREENLANDIC
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With you? Yeah. OK.
Yeah? OK, fantastic.
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Though snowmobiles have replaced
sleds across most of the Arctic,
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00:05:08,240 --> 00:05:12,680
dogs are still the preferred mode
of transport in northern Greenland.
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Rasmus is in his mid-40s
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and has hunted all of his life.
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He's going to be my guide
out on the sea ice.
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But before we head out hunting,
he's going to take me fishing,
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a few miles south of Qaanaaq.
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Just looking around, it's so surreal.
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It's a magical place.
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Just to think, I'm on the sea.
I'm on...
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I'm actually on the Arctic Ocean.
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And all of these little hillocks
around me are icebergs.
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Moving quite a pace as well.
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Ah...
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I'm so happy.
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So happy. It's amazing.
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We're here.
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We arrive at the fishing grounds
and get straight to work.
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First, we need to reopen
a hole in the ice.
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Using mackerel for bait,
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00:06:20,240 --> 00:06:23,040
the hunters gently lower hooks
through a metre of ice
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and into the ocean below.
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Hard to think of a more iconic
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scene than this -
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a bunch of guys in furs stood around
a little hole in the ice.
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A flat metal weight
catches the strong current
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and sweeps the lines hundreds of
metres away from the hole.
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It doesn't even bear
thinking about - being sucked in.
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Now that I know
how strong the current is,
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this makes the whole notion of going
under the ice so much more scary.
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The lines will be left out for a few
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hours, so we retreat to the warmth of
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the fishing hut.
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00:07:05,640 --> 00:07:08,920
Mads Ole tells me the key to
happiness out on the ice
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is lots of snacking.
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Shall we go out? Mm. OK.
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Let's see if, er,
we've had any success.
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They can't leave the lines out
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too long, in case predators
eat the fish.
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I'd be lying if I said it felt like
we had a shark at the end of this.
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Wahey! My God!
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Halibut and rays come out
thick and fast.
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Plenty of food to keep us
and the dogs happy.
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Great day's work.
Really enjoyed that, actually.
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A really mellow, nice pace,
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but always something going on.
Just the most surreal surroundings.
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And a great catch, you know.
There's some nice, tasty fish
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that we're going to take with us
on our journey tomorrow.
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Back in Qaanaaq,
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Rasmus invites me to his house
to meet his family.
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Rasmus. Hello.
How are you? Yeah. Is your house?
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OK, thank you.
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It's Mahlia, yes? Mahlia.
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Mahlia? Hello, Mahlia. Hello there.
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Hello. ..Bruce.
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Lovely to meet you. Wow!
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It's very nice to be in
out of the cold,
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and what an extraordinary house.
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And...
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It's like the elephant in the room,
isn't it?
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You can't really walk past it
without having to ask a question.
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Rasmus, please, tell me, what is this
that I've just stepped past?
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Walrus. This is walrus? Mm.
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And why is it here,
in the middle of the living room?
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I keep my dog food in little,
er, little bags by the larder
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and, er, this is the equivalent here.
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Yeah.
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Yeah, I'm getting like that too,
I must admit!
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Rasmus must give his dogs
a decent feed before the hunt.
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Fatty meat like this is the secret to
a sled dog's endurance.
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It's energy-rich
and very long-lasting.
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Animals aren't just a source of meat
to the Inuit.
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Skins and furs are used
to make clothing.
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Rasmus shows me his
cold-weather gear -
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polar bear trousers
and a reindeer jacket.
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I feel like Pan,
out of some fairy tale or other.
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HE LAUGHS
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Rasmus, you are the dude.
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Thank you. And that's so clever.
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Just the fur ruff there
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sort of seamlessly fits and stops
any spindrift blowing into the cuff.
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I want one!
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HE CHUCKLES
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00:10:51,960 --> 00:10:53,480
Rasmus...
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Minus 50. Minus 60. Mm.
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This gear is only used
in severe cold.
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00:11:05,680 --> 00:11:07,840
It's a mere minus five at the moment,
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so Rasmus says
I won't be needing it on this trip.
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THEY CHUCKLE
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Ah... It's amazing stuff,
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and it's so...
it's really light and flexible.
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00:11:25,800 --> 00:11:29,600
Next morning, it's
time to go hunting.
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00:11:29,600 --> 00:11:32,120
Mahlia has come to see Rasmus off.
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00:11:32,120 --> 00:11:36,000
Hunting is a dangerous occupation
in spring,
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00:11:36,000 --> 00:11:38,880
when the ice is melting and
can break up at any moment.
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BOTH: Bye.
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00:12:07,880 --> 00:12:10,120
RASMUS CALLS TO DOGS
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00:12:15,400 --> 00:12:17,520
Greenland dogs can drag a sled
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00:12:17,520 --> 00:12:21,400
100 miles a day,
for up to a week at a time,
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00:12:21,400 --> 00:12:26,240
but this ancient partnership between
dog and man is almost at an end.
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00:12:26,240 --> 00:12:28,960
There are less than 40 hunters using
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00:12:28,960 --> 00:12:30,440
dog sleds in Qaanaaq.
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00:12:30,440 --> 00:12:32,440
Rasmus and his team are among
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00:12:32,440 --> 00:12:34,040
the last of their kind.
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00:12:38,600 --> 00:12:41,960
I always have mixed feelings
when I set out on a hunt.
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00:12:41,960 --> 00:12:44,480
I have deep respect for nature,
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00:12:44,480 --> 00:12:46,000
but death has always been
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00:12:46,000 --> 00:12:47,720
an intrinsic part of life
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00:12:47,720 --> 00:12:49,200
this far north.
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00:12:50,480 --> 00:12:54,640
Traditionally, in this part of
the world, hunting was everything.
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00:12:54,640 --> 00:12:57,240
There's very little gathering here.
There's no trees
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00:12:57,240 --> 00:13:00,160
to chop your firewood. Even the
warmth in your tent or shelter
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00:13:00,160 --> 00:13:02,920
at night was from the blubber of
the seals and the whales.
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00:13:02,920 --> 00:13:05,840
The clothing, the sledges,
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00:13:05,840 --> 00:13:08,720
traditionally were made from
the animals themselves.
213
00:13:08,720 --> 00:13:11,880
And of course, things are changing
now and you can buy stuff in town,
214
00:13:11,880 --> 00:13:14,880
but these guys are still hunters.
That's what they do.
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00:13:14,880 --> 00:13:18,560
They are out and they feed their
families from the food that they get
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00:13:18,560 --> 00:13:21,320
from hunting.
So, this trip is really important.
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00:13:21,320 --> 00:13:23,800
It's not just a little
look at the past,
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00:13:23,800 --> 00:13:26,000
this is what they're doing
still today
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00:13:26,000 --> 00:13:28,440
and, as a result,
I really hope we get something.
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00:13:31,800 --> 00:13:34,640
Rasmus says
it's almost two days' travelling
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00:13:34,640 --> 00:13:36,640
to the walrus hunting grounds,
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00:13:36,640 --> 00:13:38,080
so I've got plenty of time
223
00:13:38,080 --> 00:13:39,720
to soak up the scenery.
224
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After many hours travelling across
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00:13:45,640 --> 00:13:47,280
the ice, we stop for the night
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00:13:47,280 --> 00:13:49,440
at a hut on the edge of the fjord.
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00:13:49,440 --> 00:13:51,800
Come on. This way.
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00:13:53,000 --> 00:13:55,760
First thing, always,
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00:13:55,760 --> 00:13:59,920
after a long day like this,
you've got to sort the dogs out,
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00:13:59,920 --> 00:14:03,200
cos they are our life source,
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00:14:03,200 --> 00:14:06,040
our lifeblood, and they need feeding,
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00:14:06,040 --> 00:14:09,600
separating, sorting.
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00:14:09,600 --> 00:14:11,760
BARKING AND YELPING
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00:14:11,760 --> 00:14:14,160
It's walrus on the menu for the dogs,
235
00:14:14,160 --> 00:14:17,160
but I'm treated to
another local speciality -
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00:14:17,160 --> 00:14:18,920
raw narwhal fin.
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00:14:18,920 --> 00:14:21,120
DOGS YELP
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00:14:23,960 --> 00:14:25,400
Gives you strength? Mm.
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00:14:27,600 --> 00:14:29,720
Mm!
240
00:14:29,720 --> 00:14:31,200
Mm...
241
00:14:31,200 --> 00:14:32,960
Rubbery.
242
00:14:32,960 --> 00:14:34,360
Cold.
243
00:14:36,560 --> 00:14:38,040
Thank you.
244
00:14:41,280 --> 00:14:44,080
A sort of blubber sandwich,
with a bit of rubber either side...
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00:14:45,960 --> 00:14:48,400
..but strangely tasty!
246
00:14:52,480 --> 00:14:55,080
You did? With a harpoon? Mm.
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00:14:55,080 --> 00:14:56,600
And then shoot? Mm.
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00:14:56,600 --> 00:14:59,280
OK. And then pulled in? Mm.
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00:14:59,280 --> 00:15:00,800
Wow.
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00:15:09,000 --> 00:15:11,360
Is this the halibut
from yesterday? Mm.
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00:15:11,360 --> 00:15:13,680
Yeah? Yeah? Mm. Wow.
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00:15:13,680 --> 00:15:15,400
Perfect end to a great day.
253
00:15:16,800 --> 00:15:19,720
Halibut curry. Nice and hot.
254
00:15:21,440 --> 00:15:23,520
And a great little hut to sleep in.
255
00:15:25,800 --> 00:15:27,640
The dogs will all sleep outside,
256
00:15:27,640 --> 00:15:30,040
perfectly warm with
their thick coats,
257
00:15:30,040 --> 00:15:31,960
guarding us against polar bears.
258
00:15:35,280 --> 00:15:39,120
Just nipped out of the camp
to come and have a wee,
259
00:15:39,120 --> 00:15:42,080
and, er...
260
00:15:42,080 --> 00:15:43,800
broad daylight...
261
00:15:43,800 --> 00:15:46,400
and the time is midnight.
262
00:15:46,400 --> 00:15:50,400
I am truly in
the Land of the Midnight Sun,
263
00:15:50,400 --> 00:15:52,160
and how glorious!
264
00:15:52,160 --> 00:15:56,080
Of course, in the winter,
they have the reverse.
265
00:15:56,080 --> 00:15:57,880
Four months of the year -
266
00:15:57,880 --> 00:15:59,520
complete darkness.
267
00:15:59,520 --> 00:16:01,480
I'm quite pleased I'm here now.
268
00:16:02,640 --> 00:16:04,160
Unbelievable.
269
00:16:10,720 --> 00:16:12,600
Another glorious sunny day.
270
00:16:12,600 --> 00:16:14,800
All the dogs working perfectly.
271
00:16:14,800 --> 00:16:16,600
And we're plodding away,
272
00:16:16,600 --> 00:16:19,040
getting closer to
the hunting grounds.
273
00:16:29,000 --> 00:16:33,480
After a few hours, we head into
a patch of freezing fog.
274
00:16:33,480 --> 00:16:36,840
I can begin to feel, sort of...
275
00:16:36,840 --> 00:16:39,240
crystals of...
276
00:16:39,240 --> 00:16:41,360
ice in the air.
277
00:16:41,360 --> 00:16:45,000
We're quickly enveloped
by tiny ice particles.
278
00:16:45,000 --> 00:16:46,840
As they sparkle in the sunlight,
279
00:16:46,840 --> 00:16:48,880
it feels like we're travelling
280
00:16:48,880 --> 00:16:50,760
through a cloud of glitter.
281
00:16:52,440 --> 00:16:54,640
Then, I hear the distant sound
282
00:16:54,640 --> 00:16:56,400
of sea birds.
283
00:16:58,160 --> 00:17:01,880
Wow! Open water, by the looks of it.
284
00:17:01,880 --> 00:17:05,600
Finally, we've reached
the edge of the ice.
285
00:17:05,600 --> 00:17:07,600
It's just so surreal.
286
00:17:07,600 --> 00:17:11,160
So still and serene.
287
00:17:11,160 --> 00:17:13,760
Untouched by humans, frankly.
288
00:17:13,760 --> 00:17:18,120
No tin cans and shopping trolleys
in this stretch of water.
289
00:17:19,360 --> 00:17:22,680
It's breathtakingly beautiful,
290
00:17:22,680 --> 00:17:24,640
but there's no sign of walrus,
291
00:17:24,640 --> 00:17:27,720
and Paulos says
we can't go any further.
292
00:17:40,680 --> 00:17:45,120
The sea ice has melted much earlier
than the hunters expected.
293
00:17:45,120 --> 00:17:48,080
There's no chance of us
getting anything here.
294
00:17:50,200 --> 00:17:53,400
Man and dog could do with a rest,
so we make camp on
295
00:17:53,400 --> 00:17:55,280
a safe bit of land, not far
296
00:17:55,280 --> 00:17:57,120
from the ice edge.
297
00:17:57,120 --> 00:17:59,880
Wow! It looks great!
298
00:17:59,880 --> 00:18:02,200
We're just settling down
for the night
299
00:18:02,200 --> 00:18:05,280
when we see dog sleds on the horizon.
300
00:18:05,280 --> 00:18:08,680
One minute, you think you're
the only people in the entire world
301
00:18:08,680 --> 00:18:12,280
and then, suddenly, you're
overwhelmed with dog sled teams.
302
00:18:12,280 --> 00:18:15,000
And a boat, of all things!
303
00:18:15,000 --> 00:18:20,040
This new hunting team has come
prepared for open water.
304
00:18:20,040 --> 00:18:24,080
They're going to head out to sea
first thing tomorrow morning.
305
00:18:26,200 --> 00:18:31,000
Everyone's up early. Walrus have been
spotted a mile or so offshore.
306
00:18:35,920 --> 00:18:40,360
The new hunters invite Mads Ole
and I to join one of the boats,
307
00:18:40,360 --> 00:18:42,560
but on two conditions.
308
00:18:42,560 --> 00:18:45,520
First, that I wear
Inuit cold-weather gear.
309
00:18:45,520 --> 00:18:48,840
They don't want a freezing
foreigner on their hands.
310
00:18:48,840 --> 00:18:53,480
Second, the film crew
must stay on shore.
311
00:18:53,480 --> 00:18:55,280
Over to my little camera now.
312
00:18:55,280 --> 00:18:57,480
Leaving everyone else behind.
313
00:19:05,040 --> 00:19:06,360
Harpoon.
314
00:19:08,040 --> 00:19:10,800
Weapons at the ready.
315
00:19:10,800 --> 00:19:13,200
This really is a hunting trip.
316
00:19:22,360 --> 00:19:25,440
Walrus are iconic Arctic animals.
317
00:19:25,440 --> 00:19:28,080
They live where pack ice
meets open water,
318
00:19:28,080 --> 00:19:30,280
diving for clams and other shellfish,
319
00:19:30,280 --> 00:19:33,800
then hauling out onto ice floes
to rest and sleep.
320
00:19:35,520 --> 00:19:37,960
Scanning the horizon now,
321
00:19:37,960 --> 00:19:40,160
looking for the telltale sign.
322
00:19:42,400 --> 00:19:44,520
They shouldn't be hard to spot -
323
00:19:44,520 --> 00:19:46,800
adult walrus can weigh in at
more than a tonne.
324
00:19:46,800 --> 00:19:50,320
That's a lot of food
for these hunters and their dogs -
325
00:19:50,320 --> 00:19:52,680
well worth risking
these treacherous waters.
326
00:19:59,240 --> 00:20:02,560
We've just come into shore
so that we can climb a little bit,
327
00:20:02,560 --> 00:20:05,040
get a viewpoint
to look out onto the ice floes,
328
00:20:05,040 --> 00:20:08,200
see if there's any sign of life.
329
00:20:08,200 --> 00:20:10,240
No luck so far.
330
00:20:12,320 --> 00:20:16,520
It's like a layer of latex, this ice,
331
00:20:16,520 --> 00:20:18,360
and you can wobble it,
332
00:20:18,360 --> 00:20:21,040
sending little waves off.
333
00:20:21,040 --> 00:20:22,760
Quite the strangest thing.
334
00:20:27,080 --> 00:20:28,960
And, of course,
335
00:20:28,960 --> 00:20:31,520
if you stick your finger in it,
336
00:20:31,520 --> 00:20:34,280
well, you can play with it.
337
00:20:34,280 --> 00:20:37,120
The things you can do
while waiting for walrus!
338
00:20:41,160 --> 00:20:44,880
They've just been up
to have a look, erm...
339
00:20:44,880 --> 00:20:47,800
and there's a lot of ice out there,
340
00:20:47,800 --> 00:20:49,920
and it's coming this way, apparently.
341
00:20:49,920 --> 00:20:52,760
You can feel a little
surge occasionally.
342
00:20:55,680 --> 00:20:59,640
The walrus that were seen earlier
have moved off
343
00:20:59,640 --> 00:21:03,240
but, right now,
that's the least of our worries.
344
00:21:03,240 --> 00:21:06,480
The tide is coming in, bringing
massive chunks of sea ice with it,
345
00:21:06,480 --> 00:21:09,080
blocking our way back to the camp.
346
00:21:11,240 --> 00:21:16,400
It's a real maze, trying to make
our way through all these floes.
347
00:21:16,400 --> 00:21:19,000
You go into these
open-water channels,
348
00:21:19,000 --> 00:21:21,200
and then there's a dead end.
You come back out,
349
00:21:21,200 --> 00:21:24,920
try and go back the way you came,
then the ice has closed behind you.
350
00:21:24,920 --> 00:21:29,320
This huge mass of ice
isn't giving us any real...
351
00:21:29,320 --> 00:21:31,960
any real passageways through.
352
00:21:45,000 --> 00:21:47,160
We've come to another block,
353
00:21:47,160 --> 00:21:51,360
can't seem to find our way
out of this solid ice.
354
00:22:02,360 --> 00:22:05,640
All around us, our world is moving.
355
00:22:05,640 --> 00:22:09,200
The constant groan of the ice
356
00:22:09,200 --> 00:22:12,600
shifting in different directions
as the wind's catching it.
357
00:22:12,600 --> 00:22:16,680
You look around and you see that
everything around you is unsteady,
358
00:22:16,680 --> 00:22:18,280
moving left and right.
359
00:22:18,280 --> 00:22:20,080
HUNTERS CHAT IN GREENLANDIC
360
00:22:21,320 --> 00:22:24,120
Newest turn-up of events
361
00:22:24,120 --> 00:22:26,760
is that we're going to drag the boat
362
00:22:26,760 --> 00:22:28,240
across this floe,
363
00:22:28,240 --> 00:22:31,120
out onto the ice the other side.
364
00:22:32,640 --> 00:22:34,400
Woah-oh-oh!
365
00:22:34,400 --> 00:22:37,600
CHUCKLING
366
00:22:34,400 --> 00:22:37,600
Whoa! Oh, my God!
367
00:22:37,600 --> 00:22:40,800
That's where I was a second ago -
right at the back, pushing -
368
00:22:40,800 --> 00:22:44,040
and I came to one side
to get a better shot.
369
00:22:44,040 --> 00:22:45,520
I'm quite glad I did!
370
00:22:47,400 --> 00:22:49,320
OK, and we're off,
371
00:22:49,320 --> 00:22:51,200
and so are our friends.
372
00:22:52,720 --> 00:22:58,160
Spring is when the Arctic is at
its most dynamic and most dangerous.
373
00:22:59,840 --> 00:23:03,240
We seem to be making some headway.
374
00:23:04,760 --> 00:23:07,440
This looks a lot more promising.
375
00:23:10,120 --> 00:23:13,320
I think we might be getting there.
376
00:23:14,880 --> 00:23:17,240
Finally, we find a way through
377
00:23:17,240 --> 00:23:19,000
and head back to camp,
378
00:23:19,000 --> 00:23:21,360
but no-one feels like celebrating.
379
00:23:21,360 --> 00:23:24,000
Sadly, we're coming
back empty-handed.
380
00:23:24,000 --> 00:23:25,960
We've had to accept defeat.
381
00:23:25,960 --> 00:23:29,360
Didn't see a single thing all day.
382
00:23:29,360 --> 00:23:31,200
So, it's really disappointing,
383
00:23:31,200 --> 00:23:34,440
but it's been an extraordinary day
out on the ice and the water.
384
00:23:34,440 --> 00:23:35,920
But for these guys, sad, because
385
00:23:35,920 --> 00:23:37,560
we really wanted to get something.
386
00:23:45,320 --> 00:23:48,520
The mood back at camp is pretty low.
387
00:23:48,520 --> 00:23:53,640
Paulos says it's becoming much harder
to hunt at this time of year.
388
00:24:14,480 --> 00:24:17,640
The one thing I'm really
picking up on here is that...
389
00:24:17,640 --> 00:24:21,000
things are changing here
really very dramatically.
390
00:24:21,000 --> 00:24:25,520
This was almost a certainty that they
would be able to get out on that ice,
391
00:24:25,520 --> 00:24:28,080
and now it's much warmer,
it's softer, it's thinner,
392
00:24:28,080 --> 00:24:30,720
and it's shifting
earlier in the year,
393
00:24:30,720 --> 00:24:35,280
so that's having a real impact on
these people's lives.
394
00:24:38,360 --> 00:24:40,840
Temperatures in Greenland have risen
395
00:24:40,840 --> 00:24:44,760
by twice the global average in
recent years, with dramatic impacts,
396
00:24:44,760 --> 00:24:47,760
but Mads Ole says hunting
397
00:24:47,760 --> 00:24:49,320
is the way of his ancestors
398
00:24:49,320 --> 00:24:51,920
and he's not going to give it up.
399
00:25:17,960 --> 00:25:21,240
There's no chance of
getting walrus here but, tomorrow,
400
00:25:21,240 --> 00:25:24,240
the hunters want to look for seals
on the ice further north.
401
00:25:27,360 --> 00:25:29,200
Rasmus has run out of walrus meat,
402
00:25:29,200 --> 00:25:30,640
so the dogs have to
403
00:25:30,640 --> 00:25:32,280
make do with dried biscuits.
404
00:25:35,440 --> 00:25:38,160
Unless we get some meat,
405
00:25:38,160 --> 00:25:41,040
we're all going to go hungry.
That's the way of it out here.
406
00:25:41,040 --> 00:25:44,760
The dogs need meat and we need meat.
407
00:25:44,760 --> 00:25:49,600
So, erm, it's really serious,
we've got to find something.
408
00:25:53,000 --> 00:25:55,760
DOGS HOWL AND WHINE
409
00:26:00,240 --> 00:26:04,400
Oh, that is so much better!
You can't beat...
410
00:26:04,400 --> 00:26:07,600
You can't beat a good cup of tea
in these conditions.
411
00:26:16,960 --> 00:26:19,600
OK. Feels good.
412
00:26:21,480 --> 00:26:23,360
Yeah? You have good teeth.
413
00:26:26,440 --> 00:26:28,000
What's that?
414
00:26:28,000 --> 00:26:30,800
You are old man. Whole man?
415
00:26:30,800 --> 00:26:33,400
Old. Old man?
416
00:26:33,400 --> 00:26:35,480
By my teeth?
417
00:26:35,480 --> 00:26:39,440
My God! That's the rudest thing
anyone has ever said to me, Mads Ole,
418
00:26:39,440 --> 00:26:41,160
but I forgive you.
419
00:26:41,160 --> 00:26:42,840
THEY LAUGH
420
00:26:47,240 --> 00:26:49,080
Best bit of the day.
421
00:26:49,080 --> 00:26:51,440
Done all the boring bits...
422
00:26:53,560 --> 00:26:57,960
..packing up the sledge,
breaking camp, and now...
423
00:26:57,960 --> 00:27:00,120
it's on for the ride.
424
00:27:02,400 --> 00:27:04,640
Looking for seal today,
predominantly.
425
00:27:04,640 --> 00:27:08,840
We have to spread out,
so that we can observe the landscape,
426
00:27:08,840 --> 00:27:12,160
but it really is the proverbial
needle in a haystack here -
427
00:27:12,160 --> 00:27:14,520
there's such an expanse of snow.
428
00:27:16,480 --> 00:27:19,600
HE CALLS TO DOGS
429
00:27:21,120 --> 00:27:24,080
Just stopping every now and then,
430
00:27:24,080 --> 00:27:26,440
scan the horizon for seals
431
00:27:26,440 --> 00:27:28,320
that might be out basking.
432
00:27:32,360 --> 00:27:34,240
BRUCE CHUCKLES
433
00:27:42,080 --> 00:27:44,760
Seal, seal. Yeah, seal.
434
00:27:44,760 --> 00:27:47,080
There's ringed seal, yeah? Yeah.
435
00:27:47,080 --> 00:27:49,560
Wow, it's a long way away.
436
00:27:49,560 --> 00:27:52,080
That's pretty impressive eyesight.
437
00:27:52,080 --> 00:27:56,400
It's only just visible with
these binoculars. Mads Ole?
438
00:27:56,400 --> 00:28:00,200
Did you stop and use binos,
or did you see with your eyes first?
439
00:28:01,320 --> 00:28:03,600
With your eyes? No way!
440
00:28:05,440 --> 00:28:06,760
HE GASPS
441
00:28:09,720 --> 00:28:12,920
Mads Ole is going to go and see if
he can get it.
442
00:28:12,920 --> 00:28:14,400
HE WHISPERS: OK.
443
00:28:15,800 --> 00:28:17,000
Good luck.
444
00:28:19,400 --> 00:28:23,360
I'm going to stay back
and make sure his dogs don't chase...
445
00:28:23,360 --> 00:28:24,960
after their boss.
446
00:28:35,880 --> 00:28:38,880
GUNSHOT AND HOWLING
447
00:28:47,640 --> 00:28:49,800
Very good shooting.
448
00:28:49,800 --> 00:28:51,520
Of course, the last thing you want
449
00:28:51,520 --> 00:28:54,920
is to maim it and for it to go
into the hole. Have to get it,
450
00:28:54,920 --> 00:28:56,880
have to kill it instantly.
451
00:28:56,880 --> 00:28:58,960
And so far, that's what they've done.
452
00:29:07,880 --> 00:29:10,280
Ringed seals are very common
in the Arctic.
453
00:29:10,280 --> 00:29:13,160
They're a staple for predators
454
00:29:13,160 --> 00:29:16,440
like polar bears and Inuit hunters.
455
00:29:16,440 --> 00:29:19,200
Adolf has seen two close together.
456
00:29:19,200 --> 00:29:21,520
He says I can go with him this time,
457
00:29:21,520 --> 00:29:25,600
as long as I camouflage myself
by turning my anorak inside out.
458
00:29:25,600 --> 00:29:29,080
I must stay in line and keep quiet.
459
00:29:36,880 --> 00:29:38,640
GUNSHOT
460
00:29:38,640 --> 00:29:41,920
While I was with Adolf,
Rasmus got a seal of his own.
461
00:29:41,920 --> 00:29:44,600
So, that's three seals...
462
00:29:46,000 --> 00:29:48,040
..and that'll be us for the day.
463
00:29:50,040 --> 00:29:52,120
BARKING AND WHINING
464
00:29:52,120 --> 00:29:55,040
When we've eaten our fill,
it's the dogs' turn.
465
00:30:03,080 --> 00:30:07,040
I tell you what,
the dogs deserve all of this,
466
00:30:07,040 --> 00:30:09,680
because they've pulled us...
467
00:30:09,680 --> 00:30:11,360
I don't know, I've been measuring
468
00:30:11,360 --> 00:30:12,840
some of the distances on my GPS.
469
00:30:12,840 --> 00:30:15,440
We've gone about 60km so far,
470
00:30:15,440 --> 00:30:17,400
not including being on the boat,
471
00:30:17,400 --> 00:30:20,280
and the dogs have done
all of that work.
472
00:30:20,280 --> 00:30:22,040
Hard work.
473
00:30:22,040 --> 00:30:24,280
They deserve every bit of this.
474
00:30:24,280 --> 00:30:25,800
Good for them.
475
00:30:25,800 --> 00:30:27,920
Well done, boys and girls.
476
00:30:30,680 --> 00:30:34,520
Though rising temperatures
are makings things unpredictable,
477
00:30:34,520 --> 00:30:38,760
Rasmus is more worried about
limits on the animals he can kill.
478
00:30:38,760 --> 00:30:41,200
New quotas have recently
been introduced,
479
00:30:41,200 --> 00:30:44,360
and he blames pressure
from animal rights campaigners.
480
00:31:31,840 --> 00:31:34,720
It's time to head back to Qaanaaq.
481
00:31:34,720 --> 00:31:36,440
We didn't get any big animals,
482
00:31:36,440 --> 00:31:38,720
but at least we're not going home
empty-handed.
483
00:31:40,120 --> 00:31:44,120
When I came here, I thought that
the hunters would see climate change
484
00:31:44,120 --> 00:31:46,720
as the biggest threat
to their way of life.
485
00:31:46,720 --> 00:31:51,080
I'm shocked that they are more
worried about conservationists.
486
00:31:51,080 --> 00:31:53,040
But with so many pressures on both
487
00:31:53,040 --> 00:31:55,080
wildlife and the Inuit,
488
00:31:55,080 --> 00:31:56,400
I wonder how long
489
00:31:56,400 --> 00:31:59,200
this kind of hunting will continue.
490
00:32:00,720 --> 00:32:03,560
After a long day
travelling across the ice,
491
00:32:03,560 --> 00:32:05,560
we finally pull into town.
492
00:32:08,520 --> 00:32:11,200
I'm really looking forward to
a hot shower.
493
00:32:12,160 --> 00:32:14,280
Yeah, I think I might get changed!
494
00:32:14,280 --> 00:32:15,760
BRUCE CHUCKLES
495
00:32:15,760 --> 00:32:17,760
Get rid of this.
496
00:32:17,760 --> 00:32:21,760
Nice stuff, mate. No, I really
enjoyed it. Thanks. You're a star.
497
00:32:25,920 --> 00:32:30,880
Life out on the sea ice
felt timeless and ancient,
498
00:32:30,880 --> 00:32:33,880
but town is much more familiar.
499
00:32:33,880 --> 00:32:36,440
Rasmus is going to the supermarket
500
00:32:36,440 --> 00:32:39,000
to stock up on supplies
for his next hunting trip.
501
00:32:39,000 --> 00:32:41,120
Ha-ha!
502
00:32:41,120 --> 00:32:43,200
Now, I really wasn't expecting this.
503
00:32:43,200 --> 00:32:44,760
First impressions?
504
00:32:44,760 --> 00:32:47,240
I could be anywhere in the world.
505
00:32:52,440 --> 00:32:54,840
I said we could be
anywhere in the world,
506
00:32:54,840 --> 00:32:58,520
but having bullets, rounds,
next to the Rizla
507
00:32:58,520 --> 00:33:01,960
isn't quite the same as back home!
508
00:33:01,960 --> 00:33:03,480
Let's keep going.
509
00:33:04,480 --> 00:33:08,600
Milk. And this is powdered.
510
00:33:08,600 --> 00:33:11,280
Where's the price? 90. 90?!
511
00:33:11,280 --> 00:33:14,640
Wow! You need some cows up here. Mm.
512
00:33:14,640 --> 00:33:16,760
It's 12 quid.
513
00:33:16,760 --> 00:33:18,440
13 kroner.
514
00:33:18,440 --> 00:33:23,480
That's nearly £2 for a vegetable
that, quite frankly,
515
00:33:23,480 --> 00:33:25,600
has been on the shelf a while.
516
00:33:25,600 --> 00:33:29,000
Pretty much what I would expect,
actually, considering where we are.
517
00:33:29,000 --> 00:33:31,800
You can't grow this stuff.
It comes a long, long way.
518
00:33:31,800 --> 00:33:34,680
It's going to cost, doesn't last.
519
00:33:34,680 --> 00:33:36,520
That's the way of it.
520
00:33:36,520 --> 00:33:38,640
But the price of fruit and veg
521
00:33:38,640 --> 00:33:40,400
is nothing compared to meat.
522
00:33:40,400 --> 00:33:43,200
What's this? Lamb. Oh, lamb.
523
00:33:43,200 --> 00:33:45,160
257. Yeah...
524
00:33:45,160 --> 00:33:47,600
£35 for a few chops.
525
00:33:47,600 --> 00:33:49,880
Most of this was shipped up
526
00:33:49,880 --> 00:33:52,080
from Europe almost a year ago.
527
00:33:52,080 --> 00:33:54,840
It seems mad to be importing
frozen meat
528
00:33:54,840 --> 00:33:57,360
when there are thousands of seals
out on the ice.
529
00:33:57,360 --> 00:34:02,840
If Qaanaaq loses its hunters, it
loses its main supply of fresh food.
530
00:34:02,840 --> 00:34:04,600
Yet more empty shelves.
531
00:34:04,600 --> 00:34:07,120
By far the most expensive things
in the supermarket
532
00:34:07,120 --> 00:34:08,800
are local delicacies.
533
00:34:08,800 --> 00:34:10,080
Narwhal. Mm.
534
00:34:15,920 --> 00:34:19,360
OK, you need to be earning
20 quid to get that.
535
00:34:19,360 --> 00:34:21,080
We were eating a whole
536
00:34:21,080 --> 00:34:22,840
narwhal fin earlier.
537
00:34:22,840 --> 00:34:25,520
Rasmus, if you catch a whole narwhal,
538
00:34:25,520 --> 00:34:27,680
or you're very successful
in the hunt,
539
00:34:27,680 --> 00:34:30,160
you can actually earn quite a lot
of money. Is that true?
540
00:34:47,440 --> 00:34:50,520
Commercial hunting
can threaten species,
541
00:34:50,520 --> 00:34:54,280
but I understand that Rasmus
needs cash to live in town,
542
00:34:54,280 --> 00:34:57,000
yet can earn very little
from hunting.
543
00:34:57,000 --> 00:34:59,800
The family can only afford to shop
here because of the income
544
00:34:59,800 --> 00:35:02,560
from Mahlia's job as a teacher.
545
00:35:02,560 --> 00:35:04,400
Rasmus is caught between two worlds,
546
00:35:04,400 --> 00:35:07,600
the traditional and the modern.
547
00:35:07,600 --> 00:35:10,400
I've seen how expensive
your supermarket is, Rasmus.
548
00:35:10,400 --> 00:35:12,360
It's mind-blowing.
549
00:35:12,360 --> 00:35:14,720
Is it easy to make a
living as a hunter?
550
00:35:32,240 --> 00:35:35,600
It's not just the supermarket
that's expensive.
551
00:35:35,600 --> 00:35:38,400
Rasmus and Mahlia need to pay for
their heating,
552
00:35:38,400 --> 00:35:40,120
water and electricity.
553
00:35:40,120 --> 00:35:42,000
The high cost of living is forcing
554
00:35:42,000 --> 00:35:46,200
more and more hunters
to look for paid work.
555
00:35:46,200 --> 00:35:48,800
But if you're a skilful hunter,
you can certainly get by.
556
00:35:48,800 --> 00:35:51,280
Someone has just returned
with a prize kill,
557
00:35:51,280 --> 00:35:54,680
and a crowd gathers to take a look.
558
00:35:54,680 --> 00:35:56,000
Are you the hunter?
559
00:35:57,800 --> 00:35:59,040
Wow.
560
00:36:01,520 --> 00:36:03,440
No prizes for guessing what this is.
561
00:36:05,800 --> 00:36:09,160
I know that you wear the fur.
562
00:36:09,160 --> 00:36:12,440
What else are you going to do with
the body parts of this animal?
563
00:36:21,680 --> 00:36:24,200
Does it taste good? Tasty?
564
00:36:31,160 --> 00:36:33,240
Each year, six polar bears
565
00:36:33,240 --> 00:36:36,040
can legally be killed
in the Qaanaaq area,
566
00:36:36,040 --> 00:36:38,120
compared with 85 narwhal,
567
00:36:38,120 --> 00:36:41,920
but scientists still say
the local bear population
568
00:36:41,920 --> 00:36:44,000
is almost certainly in decline.
569
00:36:44,000 --> 00:36:45,720
Can you imagine a future
570
00:36:45,720 --> 00:36:47,280
when you were told that
571
00:36:47,280 --> 00:36:49,360
you were not allowed
to hunt polar bear?
572
00:37:04,920 --> 00:37:07,040
This is about much more than
573
00:37:07,040 --> 00:37:10,320
warm clothing and nice meat.
It's an assertion of the right
574
00:37:10,320 --> 00:37:13,120
to live here as they have done
for millennia.
575
00:37:13,120 --> 00:37:16,760
The hunters say that it's the
industrial nations' way of life
576
00:37:16,760 --> 00:37:21,360
and our excesses that are endangering
the polar bears, not them.
577
00:37:23,160 --> 00:37:26,360
I respect always
the rights of indigenous peoples.
578
00:37:26,360 --> 00:37:28,240
I think they are better placed
579
00:37:28,240 --> 00:37:30,280
to know how to treat the environment
580
00:37:30,280 --> 00:37:33,080
than most of the nation states
and the corporations out there.
581
00:37:33,080 --> 00:37:35,120
Having said that, of course,
582
00:37:35,120 --> 00:37:38,560
indigenous peoples
are part of the larger world
583
00:37:38,560 --> 00:37:41,080
and they need to know that,
and we all need to work together
584
00:37:41,080 --> 00:37:43,680
on many issues. So...
585
00:37:43,680 --> 00:37:46,360
I don't know what I think
about them shooting a polar bear.
586
00:37:46,360 --> 00:37:48,440
I think that it's really important
for them.
587
00:37:48,440 --> 00:37:51,400
I've just been wearing
polar bear trousers all last week.
588
00:37:51,400 --> 00:37:53,240
I understand the reason why,
589
00:37:53,240 --> 00:37:55,360
culturally, these people
590
00:37:55,360 --> 00:37:57,440
are still hunting this.
591
00:37:57,440 --> 00:38:00,080
I find it hard to stand here
holding a polar bear
592
00:38:00,080 --> 00:38:02,680
because I'd rather
it was still alive,
593
00:38:02,680 --> 00:38:05,520
but I'm not out there
in the freezing cold,
594
00:38:05,520 --> 00:38:07,160
trying to make a... Trying to
595
00:38:07,160 --> 00:38:09,760
feed my family from hunting.
596
00:38:11,040 --> 00:38:14,480
Greenland is now
a technologically developed country.
597
00:38:14,480 --> 00:38:17,320
The hunters are no longer isolated.
598
00:38:17,320 --> 00:38:20,840
They have rifles and bullets
from the outside world,
599
00:38:20,840 --> 00:38:24,760
so perhaps they have to come to terms
with outside restrictions too.
600
00:38:24,760 --> 00:38:27,960
But I hope that some are able
601
00:38:27,960 --> 00:38:31,560
to continue hunting. They're more
than just a source of fresh meat.
602
00:38:31,560 --> 00:38:33,360
They act as a cultural anchor
603
00:38:33,360 --> 00:38:35,120
for the whole community.
604
00:38:35,120 --> 00:38:36,920
They connect people here
605
00:38:36,920 --> 00:38:38,960
to their ancestors and provide
606
00:38:38,960 --> 00:38:41,880
some protection against
the social changes
607
00:38:41,880 --> 00:38:44,400
that are sweeping through Greenland.
608
00:38:44,400 --> 00:38:46,880
It's time to journey south.
609
00:38:46,880 --> 00:38:48,760
I want to find out more about
610
00:38:48,760 --> 00:38:51,360
Greenland's rapid modernisation.
611
00:38:51,360 --> 00:38:54,640
Qaanaaq has given me
a glimpse of Greenland's past,
612
00:38:54,640 --> 00:38:57,000
now I want to look into its future.
613
00:38:59,000 --> 00:39:01,120
It's been really lovely
to get to know you,
614
00:39:01,120 --> 00:39:02,880
and thanks for all your hospitality.
615
00:39:02,880 --> 00:39:05,880
Rasmus, this is one question
I've never asked you.
616
00:39:05,880 --> 00:39:08,760
What does your future hold?
Are you going to stay a hunter?
617
00:39:28,240 --> 00:39:30,560
Stay well, mate. Stay well.
618
00:39:36,320 --> 00:39:38,560
All cultures are dynamic,
619
00:39:38,560 --> 00:39:42,360
but rapid change, as a result of
strong external forces,
620
00:39:42,360 --> 00:39:44,440
can be devastating.
621
00:39:44,440 --> 00:39:46,720
I wish my friend well.
622
00:39:52,600 --> 00:39:55,400
With every degree of
latitude I fly south,
623
00:39:55,400 --> 00:39:57,760
the temperature increases,
624
00:39:57,760 --> 00:40:00,960
and you can really
see the difference.
625
00:40:00,960 --> 00:40:02,640
We haven't been flying long
626
00:40:02,640 --> 00:40:06,400
but, already, there are telltale
signs of the ice-pack breaking up.
627
00:40:06,400 --> 00:40:08,880
And ahead of me, I can see that
628
00:40:08,880 --> 00:40:10,640
it's really quite dramatic.
629
00:40:10,640 --> 00:40:12,840
It's not just the sea ice
630
00:40:12,840 --> 00:40:14,480
that's being affected.
631
00:40:14,480 --> 00:40:17,560
Most of Greenland is covered by
a vast ice sheet.
632
00:40:17,560 --> 00:40:21,880
In recent years, this has been
melting at an unprecedented rate,
633
00:40:21,880 --> 00:40:25,240
revealing new land and new riches.
634
00:40:26,760 --> 00:40:28,720
I'm flying halfway down the coast,
635
00:40:28,720 --> 00:40:30,240
to Disko Bay.
636
00:40:30,240 --> 00:40:32,080
This region is rich in oil,
637
00:40:32,080 --> 00:40:33,960
metal ores and gemstones.
638
00:40:33,960 --> 00:40:35,440
The more ice melts,
639
00:40:35,440 --> 00:40:38,120
the more investment pours in.
640
00:40:38,120 --> 00:40:42,080
The Greenlandic government hopes
that the wealth and jobs created
641
00:40:42,080 --> 00:40:45,280
as the ice retreats will seal
the island's transformation
642
00:40:45,280 --> 00:40:49,000
into a modern economy and buy it
full independence from Denmark.
643
00:40:54,240 --> 00:40:57,000
Hey, how you doing? Can I come in?
644
00:40:57,000 --> 00:40:59,040
Come on in! Thanks, mate.
645
00:41:02,320 --> 00:41:04,640
I'm heading into the wilderness again
646
00:41:04,640 --> 00:41:08,000
but, this time, I have
a very different guide.
647
00:41:08,000 --> 00:41:10,480
Tim Daffern is an Australian,
648
00:41:10,480 --> 00:41:12,920
and he's a mining entrepreneur.
649
00:41:14,600 --> 00:41:16,680
This is like a taxi to work
for you, Tim!
650
00:41:16,680 --> 00:41:19,720
It's a beautiful place.
It's a lot of challenges,
651
00:41:19,720 --> 00:41:22,360
but I just love coming to work here.
It's fantastic.
652
00:41:28,160 --> 00:41:30,680
Well, fundamentally,
where we're flying now,
653
00:41:30,680 --> 00:41:32,600
if you went back ten years ago -
654
00:41:32,600 --> 00:41:36,880
and certainly 25, 30 years ago -
we'd be flying over solid ice.
655
00:41:36,880 --> 00:41:39,200
The change is, the ice has gone.
656
00:41:39,200 --> 00:41:41,640
What that's allowed us to do
is to expand
657
00:41:41,640 --> 00:41:43,480
our geological exploration work.
658
00:41:43,480 --> 00:41:46,200
When you've got 80 metres or
a couple of hundred metres of ice,
659
00:41:46,200 --> 00:41:48,720
you can't see the rock.
Five years ago,
660
00:41:48,720 --> 00:41:51,920
while hiking on these rocks,
Tim and a colleague
661
00:41:51,920 --> 00:41:55,160
discovered a billion-dollar
deposit of lead and zinc
662
00:41:55,160 --> 00:41:57,360
that had been covered by glacial ice.
663
00:41:57,360 --> 00:42:00,960
We are now in an area
that, 20 years ago, was...
664
00:42:00,960 --> 00:42:04,680
There was 60 metres of ice above us.
60 metres of ice.
665
00:42:04,680 --> 00:42:07,280
All that has gone for a kilometre,
666
00:42:07,280 --> 00:42:09,480
revealing your riches. Correct.
667
00:42:11,000 --> 00:42:14,960
After this discovery, Tim and his
business partners formed a company,
668
00:42:14,960 --> 00:42:18,400
secured investment and leased
the land and mineral rights
669
00:42:18,400 --> 00:42:20,480
from the Greenlandic government.
670
00:42:20,480 --> 00:42:22,920
The mine is still in development
671
00:42:22,920 --> 00:42:25,520
and access is tricky,
to say the least.
672
00:42:27,120 --> 00:42:29,560
The entrance is down here, below us.
673
00:42:29,560 --> 00:42:33,960
Beneath us? Yes! We're going to be
going down these ladders here. OK.
674
00:42:33,960 --> 00:42:36,000
We've got about 120 metres
vertically to go.
675
00:42:36,000 --> 00:42:37,600
You didn't tell me about that, Tim.
676
00:42:37,600 --> 00:42:41,320
Well, you know, I've got to leave
a few surprises for you.
677
00:42:47,920 --> 00:42:50,120
Wow!
678
00:42:50,120 --> 00:42:54,240
The first little bit where
it gets very precipitous.
679
00:42:54,240 --> 00:42:57,440
I'm just looking over the edge now.
680
00:42:57,440 --> 00:42:59,520
Really don't want to be falling here!
681
00:43:03,040 --> 00:43:06,240
The zinc face
is at the end of a long tunnel,
682
00:43:06,240 --> 00:43:09,400
carved out by high explosives.
683
00:43:09,400 --> 00:43:11,520
EXPLOSION
684
00:43:09,400 --> 00:43:11,520
You just heard the blast
685
00:43:11,520 --> 00:43:14,120
where the guys are doing
some excavation work.
686
00:43:14,120 --> 00:43:16,320
I felt the blast!
Yeah, you can feel it.
687
00:43:16,320 --> 00:43:18,280
It pushes the air past you. Yeah.
688
00:43:22,120 --> 00:43:24,080
Here's a pretty good sample.
Excuse me.
689
00:43:25,480 --> 00:43:28,200
You can see the sparkling, here.
690
00:43:28,200 --> 00:43:30,440
This is a really nice piece of
691
00:43:30,440 --> 00:43:32,160
sphalerite. High-grade zinc.
692
00:43:34,000 --> 00:43:37,640
Zinc doesn't rust,
so it's used to coat steel.
693
00:43:37,640 --> 00:43:39,160
There's a growing demand for it
694
00:43:39,160 --> 00:43:42,200
in the booming economies
of India and China.
695
00:43:45,960 --> 00:43:47,600
What we've got here is
696
00:43:47,600 --> 00:43:49,680
a really nice example of galena,
697
00:43:49,680 --> 00:43:50,960
which is a lead.
698
00:43:50,960 --> 00:43:54,480
It's got quite a shiny,
metallic look to it. Hasn't it just?
699
00:43:54,480 --> 00:43:56,320
In today's terms,
700
00:43:56,320 --> 00:43:58,840
the amount of metal in this pillar
701
00:43:58,840 --> 00:44:00,600
is about $1.5 million.
702
00:44:00,600 --> 00:44:03,840
There are 1,000 of them
in this mine. Wow!
703
00:44:03,840 --> 00:44:07,520
Our estimate of the remaining worth
704
00:44:07,520 --> 00:44:10,560
is in excess of
$1 billion-worth of metal.
705
00:44:10,560 --> 00:44:12,200
Wow!
706
00:44:12,200 --> 00:44:16,360
I know that lead can be very
damaging in the environment
707
00:44:16,360 --> 00:44:19,120
if tipped into fuel, for example.
708
00:44:19,120 --> 00:44:20,720
What's the toxicity of zinc?
709
00:44:20,720 --> 00:44:24,000
Zinc is not as bad, but it is
damaging to the environment.
710
00:44:24,000 --> 00:44:25,960
One thing we're very careful to do
711
00:44:25,960 --> 00:44:28,680
is make sure all our processing
is here, underground.
712
00:44:28,680 --> 00:44:33,720
We have no waste - liquid or solid.
Nothing escapes from this mine.
713
00:44:33,720 --> 00:44:36,520
Sure. All that comes out
is concentrated metal.
714
00:44:36,520 --> 00:44:40,360
It's secured in bags,
inside special steel boxes,
715
00:44:40,360 --> 00:44:42,200
and then carried down
across the fjord.
716
00:44:44,080 --> 00:44:47,120
I'm going to spend a day
working here.
717
00:44:47,120 --> 00:44:50,040
I want to get a sense of the
challenges facing these men.
718
00:44:51,160 --> 00:44:52,920
The first task is getting a cable car
719
00:44:52,920 --> 00:44:54,400
up to the tunnel entrance.
720
00:44:54,400 --> 00:44:57,880
For that, Tim needs specialists,
721
00:44:57,880 --> 00:45:00,040
and they don't come more specialised
than this
722
00:45:00,040 --> 00:45:01,720
Swiss climbing and blasting team.
723
00:45:04,760 --> 00:45:06,640
Nils is in charge.
724
00:45:06,640 --> 00:45:11,160
He works 12-hour shifts, seven days
a week, for months at a time,
725
00:45:11,160 --> 00:45:12,920
in very testing conditions.
726
00:45:12,920 --> 00:45:16,240
You see out there, this rock face?
727
00:45:16,240 --> 00:45:19,440
Yes. We have to clean that rock face.
728
00:45:19,440 --> 00:45:23,080
How do we get there? We have
to climb up the ladder again,
729
00:45:23,080 --> 00:45:26,560
cross, and then abseil. Wonderful!
730
00:45:26,560 --> 00:45:29,440
You've got all the best jobs for me!
Yeah, of course!
731
00:45:37,520 --> 00:45:41,200
I think I'm about to get vertigo.
732
00:45:43,760 --> 00:45:47,360
The blasting has loosened the rocks
above the work area,
733
00:45:47,360 --> 00:45:50,280
making it very dangerous
for the people below.
734
00:45:51,800 --> 00:45:53,840
Because we've got so much
daylight here,
735
00:45:53,840 --> 00:45:58,480
there's going to be people
working here all through the night.
736
00:45:58,480 --> 00:46:03,000
And it's so important that
all this area is clear,
737
00:46:03,000 --> 00:46:05,880
because the size of some of these
pieces coming out
738
00:46:05,880 --> 00:46:08,760
would kill you, without question,
if they landed on you.
739
00:46:08,760 --> 00:46:12,600
Be careful with your leg.
Yeah. I'll try.
740
00:46:17,800 --> 00:46:21,800
Woo! Wow! Good work!
741
00:46:21,800 --> 00:46:24,160
Good work! Well done. Yeah.
742
00:46:24,160 --> 00:46:27,960
Fun, isn't it?
OK, I concede, that was fun!
743
00:46:27,960 --> 00:46:30,680
Nils is a real Arctic adventurer.
744
00:46:30,680 --> 00:46:34,160
He works hard for a few months,
then takes the rest of the year off,
745
00:46:34,160 --> 00:46:36,760
travelling the world
and climbing for fun.
746
00:46:39,920 --> 00:46:41,800
What do you think, Nils,
747
00:46:41,800 --> 00:46:44,200
here, or in an office?
748
00:46:44,200 --> 00:46:45,480
Here!
749
00:46:45,480 --> 00:46:47,000
BRUCE LAUGHS
750
00:46:47,000 --> 00:46:49,080
This is your preferred workplace,
751
00:46:49,080 --> 00:46:51,760
hanging from a rope, in the outdoors?
752
00:46:51,760 --> 00:46:54,520
Yeah. I can see why.
753
00:46:54,520 --> 00:46:57,720
The last job of the day
is even more risky.
754
00:46:57,720 --> 00:46:59,840
This is the danger -
755
00:46:59,840 --> 00:47:02,120
detonator, dynamite.
756
00:47:02,120 --> 00:47:04,720
When you put them together...
757
00:47:04,720 --> 00:47:07,800
You said bend it? Yes, exactly.
I can bend it and push it.
758
00:47:07,800 --> 00:47:11,640
Feels a bit incongruous,
but I'm going to trust him.
759
00:47:12,800 --> 00:47:14,480
And, er, here we go.
760
00:47:14,480 --> 00:47:16,800
So, this one goes in.
761
00:47:16,800 --> 00:47:19,120
And I guide that with the stick.
762
00:47:19,120 --> 00:47:20,920
Yep. Thanks.
763
00:47:24,920 --> 00:47:27,920
And I hit that hard? Hard, yeah.
764
00:47:27,920 --> 00:47:30,800
That's the bit that's weird.
765
00:47:30,800 --> 00:47:32,400
That's good. Good enough.
766
00:47:33,480 --> 00:47:37,000
How did Bruce go?
Well, he was stupid enough to think
767
00:47:37,000 --> 00:47:42,960
that it was a good idea to bang
dynamite and detonators together.
768
00:47:42,960 --> 00:47:46,240
NILS SPEAKS ON RADIO
769
00:47:46,240 --> 00:47:48,400
Everything's done?
Everything is done.
770
00:47:48,400 --> 00:47:50,520
Press the button?
You can press the button.
771
00:47:50,520 --> 00:47:52,440
If something goes wrong,
it's your fault!
772
00:47:52,440 --> 00:47:56,680
Because you drilled some holes
as well. Don't you start on me!
773
00:47:56,680 --> 00:47:58,560
OK. Are you ready for this?
774
00:47:58,560 --> 00:48:00,760
I certainly am. Press and hold,
775
00:48:00,760 --> 00:48:02,600
green light. One, two...
776
00:48:02,600 --> 00:48:04,320
BLAST
777
00:48:09,320 --> 00:48:11,320
Everything's changed,
778
00:48:11,320 --> 00:48:13,920
and it certainly has.
779
00:48:13,920 --> 00:48:16,440
Once this area has been opened up,
780
00:48:16,440 --> 00:48:18,240
the cable car will be installed,
781
00:48:18,240 --> 00:48:21,560
and then the mining
will begin in earnest.
782
00:48:21,560 --> 00:48:24,360
Though most of the set-up
is being done by outsiders,
783
00:48:24,360 --> 00:48:28,080
there are a few local Inuit men
doing unskilled jobs.
784
00:48:28,080 --> 00:48:30,680
Hi, gents, my name's Bruce.
785
00:48:30,680 --> 00:48:33,520
Gideon. Gideon? Yeah. Hi, Gideon...
786
00:48:33,520 --> 00:48:36,880
I ask Lars Ole how this compares
with traditional life.
787
00:49:17,640 --> 00:49:21,880
When the mine is operational,
it will employ 120 local people,
788
00:49:21,880 --> 00:49:24,960
with many more working
in related industries.
789
00:49:26,480 --> 00:49:29,360
Though I've seen the devastation
mining can cause
790
00:49:29,360 --> 00:49:32,920
in other parts of the world,
this feels more responsible.
791
00:49:36,440 --> 00:49:39,560
Other mines are about
to open in Greenland,
792
00:49:39,560 --> 00:49:43,920
and large deposits of oil and gas are
thought to lie just north of here.
793
00:49:43,920 --> 00:49:47,520
All this could make the country rich.
794
00:49:47,520 --> 00:49:51,240
But as they move away from
traditional ways of life,
795
00:49:51,240 --> 00:49:54,360
many Inuit are losing
their cultural identity,
796
00:49:54,360 --> 00:49:58,280
and Greenland is suffering from
a social meltdown.
797
00:49:58,280 --> 00:50:03,120
100 years ago, it had one of the
lowest suicide rates in the world.
798
00:50:03,120 --> 00:50:06,000
Now, it's believed to have
the highest.
799
00:50:08,280 --> 00:50:11,000
There's one last place
I want to visit.
800
00:50:11,000 --> 00:50:12,920
This is Uummannaq,
801
00:50:12,920 --> 00:50:14,440
the closest town to the mine.
802
00:50:14,440 --> 00:50:18,240
It's a typical modern
Greenlandic settlement,
803
00:50:18,240 --> 00:50:20,520
where people are more likely
to work in an office
804
00:50:20,520 --> 00:50:22,600
than go out hunting for seals.
805
00:50:22,600 --> 00:50:25,400
Does the old way of life
still have a role to play
806
00:50:25,400 --> 00:50:28,120
in such a forward-looking community?
807
00:50:28,120 --> 00:50:31,280
One man is convinced that it does.
808
00:50:32,440 --> 00:50:34,320
So, these are your dogs, here?
809
00:50:34,320 --> 00:50:37,360
Yeah, this one wants to fight a lot.
This one wants to fight.
810
00:50:37,360 --> 00:50:42,120
Ole Jorgen Hammeken embodies
both the old and new Greenland.
811
00:50:42,120 --> 00:50:43,640
He grew up in the capital city
812
00:50:43,640 --> 00:50:45,800
to the south and studied law
in Denmark,
813
00:50:45,800 --> 00:50:51,000
but almost 20 years ago, he moved
here and bought a dog team instead.
814
00:50:51,000 --> 00:50:54,480
In-between hunting trips, he
recently starred in a feature film,
815
00:50:54,480 --> 00:50:56,320
and he's just at home on a red carpet
816
00:50:56,320 --> 00:50:58,280
as he is out on the ice.
817
00:50:59,880 --> 00:51:01,520
You're interesting, Ole Jorgen.
818
00:51:01,520 --> 00:51:04,280
You're a film star, you
were born in the south,
819
00:51:04,280 --> 00:51:05,800
you're a very modern person, yet
820
00:51:05,800 --> 00:51:07,920
you are very interested in
821
00:51:07,920 --> 00:51:11,680
traditional ways and you're very
proud of your cultural heritage.
822
00:51:11,680 --> 00:51:15,080
Yeah. I was able to be born
in this part of the world
823
00:51:15,080 --> 00:51:18,600
and I think that's fantastic.
I mean, without...
824
00:51:18,600 --> 00:51:21,560
our ancestors,
we wouldn't have been here.
825
00:51:21,560 --> 00:51:25,280
When you are born in Greenland
and feel Greenlandic,
826
00:51:25,280 --> 00:51:27,760
you have this identity, I think.
827
00:51:27,760 --> 00:51:31,000
BARKING
828
00:51:31,000 --> 00:51:32,520
Shh!
829
00:51:34,040 --> 00:51:35,760
His teeth are very close to something
830
00:51:35,760 --> 00:51:37,840
I don't want him to start biting.
831
00:51:37,840 --> 00:51:39,680
Oi! Stop it!
832
00:51:46,120 --> 00:51:50,840
Ole Jorgen is working with children
from Greenland's broken homes -
833
00:51:50,840 --> 00:51:54,640
the victims of the country's
frenetic pace of change.
834
00:51:56,160 --> 00:51:59,440
He wants to unite the Inuits' past
835
00:51:59,440 --> 00:52:03,080
with their future, and he believes
that the key lies with these men -
836
00:52:03,080 --> 00:52:05,160
the last of Uummannaq's hunters.
837
00:52:36,360 --> 00:52:39,520
That's seal skin? Wow.
838
00:52:39,520 --> 00:52:41,040
They really are good.
839
00:52:47,280 --> 00:52:49,160
They're great!
840
00:52:50,480 --> 00:52:54,440
Many of these children
are victims of abuse and violence
841
00:52:54,440 --> 00:52:58,440
at the hands of alcoholic,
dislocated parents.
842
00:52:58,440 --> 00:53:02,040
To show them a more tranquil way
of life, Ole Jorgen takes them
843
00:53:02,040 --> 00:53:06,320
out into the wilderness,
often for weeks at a time.
844
00:53:06,320 --> 00:53:09,640
It's not just hunting skills
that they are learning.
845
00:53:09,640 --> 00:53:12,880
He wants them to adopt
a state of mind,
846
00:53:12,880 --> 00:53:15,840
a way of being which is
in tune with their surroundings.
847
00:53:23,040 --> 00:53:27,480
It was really evident to me
when I was in Qaanaaq hunting,
848
00:53:27,480 --> 00:53:31,000
we were there on the dog sleds
for seven days,
849
00:53:31,000 --> 00:53:34,520
and most of that time,
I was sat in stillness,
850
00:53:34,520 --> 00:53:39,960
experiencing the surroundings,
851
00:53:39,960 --> 00:53:43,240
and the serenity of
the surroundings. And...
852
00:53:43,240 --> 00:53:48,680
And the hunters are particularly
unique beings,
853
00:53:48,680 --> 00:53:52,280
in that they really are connected
to the landscape in a...
854
00:53:52,280 --> 00:53:54,680
in a tangible way, I believe,
855
00:53:54,680 --> 00:53:58,200
and that's what's being passed on
here to these children.
856
00:53:58,200 --> 00:54:04,600
And that's also what
many cultures are losing today,
857
00:54:04,600 --> 00:54:06,880
is that connection
with the landscape,
858
00:54:06,880 --> 00:54:08,600
the connection with nature.
859
00:54:08,600 --> 00:54:13,040
And this is an attempt to try and
regain that, and I really support it.
860
00:54:40,080 --> 00:54:42,640
Despite the traumas
that they've endured,
861
00:54:42,640 --> 00:54:45,520
these children seem to be
well on the road to recovery.
862
00:54:45,520 --> 00:54:47,320
You're not even in the snow!
863
00:54:47,320 --> 00:54:50,120
The hunters are playing
a small, but significant, part
864
00:54:50,120 --> 00:54:51,600
in this process.
865
00:54:53,160 --> 00:54:56,840
In the same way, maintaining some
link with their traditional past
866
00:54:56,840 --> 00:55:01,560
could help all of Greenland's Inuit
to make sense of their future.
867
00:55:05,080 --> 00:55:07,720
It's time for me to leave Greenland
868
00:55:07,720 --> 00:55:11,160
and begin the next stage of
my Arctic journey.
869
00:55:13,440 --> 00:55:16,440
I knew when I came here,
I'd see some changes,
870
00:55:16,440 --> 00:55:21,640
but they've been much more pronounced
and rapid than I was ever expecting.
871
00:55:21,640 --> 00:55:25,880
For a variety of reasons,
the tradition of hunting
872
00:55:25,880 --> 00:55:28,960
is being lost to many Greenlanders
873
00:55:28,960 --> 00:55:34,680
and, with it, a state of mind
going back many generations.
874
00:55:34,680 --> 00:55:38,520
Without doubt, there are plenty of
challenges on the horizon here,
875
00:55:38,520 --> 00:55:42,120
and my only hope is that
modern Greenlanders
876
00:55:42,120 --> 00:55:45,360
don't lose their connection
to the natural world,
877
00:55:45,360 --> 00:55:49,000
here, in this stunning
frozen landscape.
878
00:55:56,040 --> 00:55:58,360
Next time, I live with the pioneers
879
00:55:58,360 --> 00:56:00,040
making their fortunes
880
00:56:00,040 --> 00:56:01,600
in the Alaskan wilderness...
881
00:56:01,600 --> 00:56:04,680
You can really see that stuff,
it's shining away.
882
00:56:04,680 --> 00:56:06,480
..and I meet the indigenous people
883
00:56:06,480 --> 00:56:09,040
fighting for their ancient rights.
884
00:56:09,040 --> 00:56:12,000
If they want to stop us from
whaling, we're going to fight.