1 00:00:02,000 --> 00:00:09,440 This programme contains some scenes which some viewers may find upsetting. 2 00:00:09,440 --> 00:00:13,480 I'm travelling through the Arctic, the Land of the Midnight Sun. 3 00:00:13,480 --> 00:00:15,440 The most amazing view. 4 00:00:15,440 --> 00:00:19,480 For thousands of years, only the hardiest hunters and herders 5 00:00:19,480 --> 00:00:22,200 lived in this inhospitable land. 6 00:00:23,600 --> 00:00:28,160 But now the Arctic is warming faster than anywhere else on Earth. 7 00:00:28,160 --> 00:00:29,680 Go back. Go back. 8 00:00:29,680 --> 00:00:33,560 As it thaws, new riches are being revealed. 9 00:00:33,560 --> 00:00:35,560 This is what it's all about - the oil. 10 00:00:35,560 --> 00:00:38,440 All eyes are turning north. 11 00:00:38,440 --> 00:00:43,520 For one bright summer, I will live with the people of the Arctic. 12 00:00:43,520 --> 00:00:45,000 Absolutely loving it. 13 00:00:46,400 --> 00:00:47,840 This is the real thing. 14 00:00:47,840 --> 00:00:51,480 I want to understand how their lives are changing, 15 00:00:51,480 --> 00:00:54,800 and discover what the future holds for this great wilderness. 16 00:01:02,440 --> 00:01:06,560 Alaska is America's last great wilderness 17 00:01:06,560 --> 00:01:09,160 and its last real frontier. 18 00:01:10,480 --> 00:01:13,560 On a day like today, you really get 19 00:01:13,560 --> 00:01:17,520 the feeling that this place goes on forever and ever. 20 00:01:17,520 --> 00:01:21,240 There for the exploitation, there for the frontiers men and women 21 00:01:21,240 --> 00:01:24,720 to get in there and take the natural resources 22 00:01:24,720 --> 00:01:27,080 that this place is just full of. 23 00:01:28,120 --> 00:01:32,680 I'm heading north into a land of vast untapped wealth. 24 00:01:35,440 --> 00:01:39,560 The sea provides a seemingly endless harvest, worth billions of dollars. 25 00:01:39,560 --> 00:01:41,240 All you've got to do in order to catch fish 26 00:01:41,240 --> 00:01:43,160 is be a little bit smarter than a fish. 27 00:01:43,160 --> 00:01:46,480 The pioneer spirit is still strong in Alaska. 28 00:01:46,480 --> 00:01:50,000 I join a modern-day gold rush at the bottom of the sea. 29 00:01:50,000 --> 00:01:52,480 You can really see that stuff, it's shining away. 30 00:01:52,480 --> 00:01:56,080 Alaska is where American dreams come true. 31 00:01:56,080 --> 00:01:57,680 But not for everyone. 32 00:01:59,360 --> 00:02:03,080 This landscape has sustained the Inupiaq people 33 00:02:03,080 --> 00:02:05,640 for thousands of years. 34 00:02:05,640 --> 00:02:10,760 But their traditional way of life is now at odds with the modern world. 35 00:02:10,760 --> 00:02:13,200 It's emotional for me. 36 00:02:13,200 --> 00:02:15,920 And they're suspicious of outsiders. 37 00:02:15,920 --> 00:02:17,840 No pictures. 38 00:02:17,840 --> 00:02:21,920 I want to understand the nature of this ancient relationship 39 00:02:21,920 --> 00:02:24,200 between the hunter and the whale 40 00:02:24,200 --> 00:02:27,000 and question what's more important - 41 00:02:27,000 --> 00:02:30,440 the life of a whale or the end of a tradition? 42 00:02:32,040 --> 00:02:34,600 If they want to try to stop sperm whaling, we're going to fight. 43 00:02:51,800 --> 00:02:54,640 My journey starts south of the Arctic Circle 44 00:02:54,640 --> 00:02:56,320 in Prince William Sound, 45 00:02:56,320 --> 00:03:00,760 where thousands of salmon streams flow down into the Gulf of Alaska 46 00:03:00,760 --> 00:03:02,880 and out into the Pacific Ocean. 47 00:03:07,320 --> 00:03:10,720 In late summer, these waters are alive 48 00:03:10,720 --> 00:03:13,920 with one of the greatest wild salmon runs on Earth. 49 00:03:16,200 --> 00:03:20,040 Salmon fishing is one of Alaska's most lucrative industries, 50 00:03:20,040 --> 00:03:22,560 worth $11 billion a year. 51 00:03:22,560 --> 00:03:27,600 I'm on my way to meet a family making its fortune from the sea. 52 00:03:29,200 --> 00:03:31,360 Somewhere up ahead are the trawlers 53 00:03:31,360 --> 00:03:34,480 that I'm going to be living on for the next few days. 54 00:03:34,480 --> 00:03:37,120 Right now, they're working around the clock 55 00:03:37,120 --> 00:03:40,960 because it's this time of year that all the salmon are preparing 56 00:03:40,960 --> 00:03:43,280 to run the gauntlet to their spawning grounds. 57 00:03:51,120 --> 00:03:52,760 Wow! 58 00:03:52,760 --> 00:03:57,760 Industrial over-fishing is now a huge problem all over the world. 59 00:03:57,760 --> 00:04:00,560 I want to find out whether it's an issue here. 60 00:04:00,560 --> 00:04:03,640 Hey, there. Tim, I presume. How are you? 61 00:04:03,640 --> 00:04:05,320 Good. I just saw that... 62 00:04:05,320 --> 00:04:07,160 I just saw that haul come in. 63 00:04:07,160 --> 00:04:09,560 That looked very successful, is that a good amount? 64 00:04:09,560 --> 00:04:11,560 Yeah, that's about what we catch, you know. 65 00:04:11,560 --> 00:04:15,040 'I've come to meet the Cabana family. 66 00:04:15,040 --> 00:04:18,040 'They've offered to take me on board and show me the ropes.' 67 00:04:18,040 --> 00:04:20,120 Hi, I'm Berry. Hey, Berry... 68 00:04:20,120 --> 00:04:22,960 'The Cabanas spend three months every year living out at sea. 69 00:04:22,960 --> 00:04:25,680 'At the helm is Tim Cabana, the skipper. 70 00:04:25,680 --> 00:04:28,120 'He's supported by his wife Berry 71 00:04:28,120 --> 00:04:32,840 'and their children, 19-year-old Kami and 17-year-old Tanner. 72 00:04:34,360 --> 00:04:39,040 'Work on board stops for no man, and within minutes of my arrival 73 00:04:39,040 --> 00:04:42,200 'the Cabanas are putting out the nets for the next catch. 74 00:04:46,000 --> 00:04:49,760 'Everyone on the crew has their own specific job 75 00:04:49,760 --> 00:04:52,680 'and, at first, I'm not quite sure what to do. 76 00:04:52,680 --> 00:04:57,200 'So, in order to get stuck in, I have to get properly kitted out.' 77 00:04:57,200 --> 00:04:59,760 I think they'll fit. 78 00:04:59,760 --> 00:05:02,600 This really is fishermen's gear, 79 00:04:59,760 --> 00:05:02,600 isn't it? 80 00:05:02,600 --> 00:05:04,960 You're ready to go. 81 00:05:06,480 --> 00:05:09,120 Bubbles are a deterrent for the fish 82 00:05:09,120 --> 00:05:11,920 and so I've just got to make as many bubbles as I can. 83 00:05:11,920 --> 00:05:15,520 I've got to keep them in the net until we're able to pull them up. 84 00:05:19,120 --> 00:05:20,960 Shall I keep doing this? 85 00:05:20,960 --> 00:05:23,560 The Cabanas make a lot of money. 86 00:05:23,560 --> 00:05:27,680 Tim's boat alone brings in 15,000 kilos a day, 87 00:05:27,680 --> 00:05:30,360 about $12,000 worth, 88 00:05:30,360 --> 00:05:33,200 and they fish for 100 days in a row. 89 00:05:33,200 --> 00:05:35,280 These things are flapping around so much, 90 00:05:35,280 --> 00:05:37,320 you just get splattered by them. 91 00:05:37,320 --> 00:05:40,840 But what I've just been told is a lot of the splat 92 00:05:40,840 --> 00:05:44,240 is actually bits of jellyfish, and, of course, that stings. 93 00:05:44,240 --> 00:05:46,760 And I'm just realising that they're right 94 00:05:46,760 --> 00:05:50,320 because I've got a bit on my chin and a bit on my eye. 95 00:05:50,320 --> 00:05:52,040 TIM: Those jellies will burn you. 96 00:05:52,040 --> 00:05:54,760 Yeah, they're burning already. Are they burning already? 97 00:05:54,760 --> 00:05:56,920 Are you experiencing jelly? A little bit. 98 00:05:56,920 --> 00:06:00,480 Everybody should experience that. What are you supposed to do about it? 99 00:06:00,480 --> 00:06:02,640 There isn't anything you can do about it. 100 00:06:02,640 --> 00:06:04,720 You can wipe it off with a paper towel, but... 101 00:06:04,720 --> 00:06:08,120 when it gets water on it, like two hours from now, it'll sting again. 102 00:06:08,120 --> 00:06:10,200 Is that right? Yeah. OK. 103 00:06:10,200 --> 00:06:15,240 The profits from fishing are staggering and the crew receive their fair share. 104 00:06:15,240 --> 00:06:19,360 Even 17-year-old Tanner, who's meant be at school, 105 00:06:19,360 --> 00:06:22,120 is earning serious pocket money. 106 00:06:23,640 --> 00:06:27,040 He's making 1,000 bucks a day. That's why he can't go to school. 107 00:06:27,040 --> 00:06:29,840 Would you go to school if you were making 1,000 bucks a day? 108 00:06:29,840 --> 00:06:31,800 I wouldn't need to go to school! 109 00:06:33,760 --> 00:06:36,960 Tim has three brothers out here, all operating their own boats. 110 00:06:38,800 --> 00:06:41,560 The business was started by their father, Roy, 111 00:06:41,560 --> 00:06:43,840 who still insists on coming out to sea. 112 00:06:43,840 --> 00:06:45,520 My name's Bruce. Bruce? 113 00:06:45,520 --> 00:06:47,240 Real pleasure to meet you, sir. 114 00:06:47,240 --> 00:06:51,440 'Now aged 83, Roy came to Alaska from Indiana as a young man, 115 00:06:51,440 --> 00:06:53,480 'hoping to make his fortune.' 116 00:06:53,480 --> 00:06:56,160 I hear you're responsible for all of this? 117 00:06:56,160 --> 00:06:58,320 It literally is one big family. 118 00:06:58,320 --> 00:07:00,880 The four brothers with their four boats, 119 00:07:00,880 --> 00:07:05,360 a few friends helping out, but the same people year after year. 120 00:07:05,360 --> 00:07:09,120 It's...it's a family affair. 121 00:07:12,680 --> 00:07:16,720 Each day, the tender boat turns up to take the catch away. 122 00:07:21,080 --> 00:07:25,040 The Cabanas' fish will be packed in ice and shipped across the world. 123 00:07:25,040 --> 00:07:29,920 Almost half the catch will go to Japan where Alaskan salmon 124 00:07:25,040 --> 00:07:29,920 is highly prized. 125 00:07:29,920 --> 00:07:34,880 Just offloading all our fish now through a vacuum pump, 126 00:07:34,880 --> 00:07:37,000 which is quite delicate, apparently. 127 00:07:37,000 --> 00:07:40,640 And then they're weighed and then shipped back to port, 128 00:07:40,640 --> 00:07:45,400 which means that we can stay out here and fish again first thing tomorrow, 129 00:07:45,400 --> 00:07:49,560 while this just goes back every night, taking the fish that we've caught. 130 00:07:50,680 --> 00:07:54,440 This is commercial fishing, and it's all about profit. 131 00:07:54,440 --> 00:07:57,880 For the Cabanas, fish equals money. 132 00:07:57,880 --> 00:08:05,840 And now I'm seeing just how much fish is being sucked out of the sea here. 133 00:08:08,040 --> 00:08:10,840 We're going to get out of here so Nath can unload. 134 00:08:10,840 --> 00:08:13,840 'With the money they make from three months' hard graft, 135 00:08:13,840 --> 00:08:17,400 'the Cabanas can afford to take the rest of the year off. 136 00:08:17,400 --> 00:08:20,720 'After a long holiday in Hawaii, they return home to Alaska 137 00:08:20,720 --> 00:08:24,640 'and the ski resort of Girdwood, 138 00:08:20,720 --> 00:08:24,640 just 50 miles from here.' 139 00:08:24,640 --> 00:08:26,640 So, for you two, it's all about skiing? 140 00:08:26,640 --> 00:08:28,760 And for you two, it's all about fishing? 141 00:08:28,760 --> 00:08:31,440 No, I like the skiing. 142 00:08:28,760 --> 00:08:31,440 Oh, you like the skiing as well. 143 00:08:31,440 --> 00:08:33,480 So it's just Tim? No. 144 00:08:33,480 --> 00:08:36,640 No, I've taught every one of these people how to ski. 145 00:08:36,640 --> 00:08:39,640 Tim and I are up there on the morning on a powder day. 146 00:08:39,640 --> 00:08:43,240 The boys were two years old and I skied behind them with a diaper bag. 147 00:08:43,240 --> 00:08:46,280 They could ski, but they couldn't go to the bathroom. 148 00:08:46,280 --> 00:08:47,760 LAUGHTER 149 00:08:54,600 --> 00:08:58,960 It's 5.30am and we're already on our way to the next hunting ground. 150 00:09:05,080 --> 00:09:08,440 Tim and his brothers work together in what's known as a wolf pack, 151 00:09:08,440 --> 00:09:11,920 taking it in turns to trap their prey. 152 00:09:11,920 --> 00:09:15,800 It's ruthlessly efficient, and they get almost every fish. 153 00:09:15,800 --> 00:09:19,360 Unlike trawling, which can cause massive damage to the sea bed, 154 00:09:19,360 --> 00:09:22,040 the net is simply drawn across the channel. 155 00:09:23,840 --> 00:09:29,400 The end is then pulled in by the skiff, corralling the fish inside. 156 00:09:31,400 --> 00:09:33,720 OK! 157 00:09:33,720 --> 00:09:36,840 Finally, the bottom is drawn closed with a purse line, 158 00:09:36,840 --> 00:09:40,680 which is why this is called purse seine fishing. 159 00:09:40,680 --> 00:09:44,520 The whole of this is an enclosed, like, bowl of netting, 160 00:09:44,520 --> 00:09:47,320 so once they're in there, they're not going anywhere. 161 00:09:53,280 --> 00:09:55,200 This looks good, huh? 162 00:09:55,200 --> 00:09:59,960 Once the catch is in, the crew grab their meals while they can 163 00:09:59,960 --> 00:10:03,200 before they're back out on deck, 164 00:09:59,960 --> 00:10:03,200 ready for the next set. 165 00:10:04,080 --> 00:10:08,200 This summer has been a record season for the Cabana family. 166 00:10:08,200 --> 00:10:11,400 I've made over half a million dollars. That's what we've grossed. 167 00:10:11,400 --> 00:10:13,640 You've made over half a million dollars? 168 00:10:13,640 --> 00:10:15,680 Substantially over. 169 00:10:15,680 --> 00:10:18,720 Really? And that's just this...? This boat, yeah. 170 00:10:18,720 --> 00:10:22,480 Then you've got the four and the co-operative is between the four brothers. 171 00:10:22,480 --> 00:10:24,760 We've made several million plus. 172 00:10:22,480 --> 00:10:24,760 OK. 173 00:10:24,760 --> 00:10:27,280 All you've got to do in order to catch fish 174 00:10:27,280 --> 00:10:29,800 is be a little bit smarter than a fish, you know! 175 00:10:29,800 --> 00:10:32,720 Really? That doesn't say much for the fishermen! 176 00:10:32,720 --> 00:10:36,760 No. You've got to be a little smarter than them and you can keep them in your net. 177 00:10:38,600 --> 00:10:42,320 The profits may be huge, but it's hard, physical work. 178 00:10:42,320 --> 00:10:47,760 19-year-old Kami stacks the corks and makes it look effortless. 179 00:10:47,760 --> 00:10:51,680 Hey, Bruce, want to try and stack the corks? Try and stack the corks? Yeah. 180 00:10:51,680 --> 00:10:54,240 Kami, let's show him how to stack the corks! 181 00:10:54,240 --> 00:10:57,880 I stand over here and kind of do it and just roll them around. 182 00:10:59,960 --> 00:11:02,680 Ah. Not clever. 183 00:11:04,200 --> 00:11:08,160 Never let go of your corks. Yep. 184 00:11:08,160 --> 00:11:11,960 This is getting a little bit of a pointy head to it. 185 00:11:11,960 --> 00:11:16,440 My corks are a disaster and in danger of collapse. 186 00:11:19,480 --> 00:11:21,160 Don't... No! 187 00:11:21,160 --> 00:11:22,920 It's not going to fall. 188 00:11:22,920 --> 00:11:25,040 Honestly, not on my watch. 189 00:11:26,080 --> 00:11:28,680 What are we going to call that - Mount Bruce? 190 00:11:30,240 --> 00:11:33,880 I'm not sure this is exactly how it normally looks, 191 00:11:33,880 --> 00:11:37,120 this mountain here they're calling Mount Bruce. 192 00:11:37,120 --> 00:11:39,080 It's supposed to be quite orderly 193 00:11:39,080 --> 00:11:42,400 so that all the net flows out without getting snagged. 194 00:11:42,400 --> 00:11:46,160 Kami's 19, she just does it without even breaking into a sweat. 195 00:11:46,160 --> 00:11:50,000 I, on the other hand, am a little bit all over the place. 196 00:11:50,000 --> 00:11:54,880 Luckily, the net goes back out without a snag, much to my relief. 197 00:11:54,880 --> 00:11:59,440 Bruce, it doesn't matter what it looks like, as long as it goes out good. 198 00:12:00,440 --> 00:12:04,760 I'm amazed by the number of fish being hauled out of the sea. 199 00:12:04,760 --> 00:12:06,040 But Tim tells me 200 00:12:06,040 --> 00:12:10,240 it's one of the most tightly regulated fisheries in the world 201 00:12:10,240 --> 00:12:12,280 and is totally sustainable. 202 00:12:12,280 --> 00:12:16,600 It's super-well managed. Our fisheries will last 203 00:12:12,280 --> 00:12:16,600 for 100 years here, 204 00:12:16,600 --> 00:12:19,920 as long as they keep managing them the way they're managing them. 205 00:12:19,920 --> 00:12:23,280 Commercial fishing permits are strictly limited 206 00:12:23,280 --> 00:12:28,080 and, at $150,000 dollars per boat, they don't come cheap. 207 00:12:28,080 --> 00:12:32,480 And there are artificial hatcheries producing billions of extra fish, 208 00:12:32,480 --> 00:12:35,400 which form a large part of this catch. 209 00:12:35,400 --> 00:12:38,320 What do you foresee as the problems for this industry 210 00:12:38,320 --> 00:12:40,480 in this part of the world in the future? 211 00:12:40,480 --> 00:12:44,120 I don't really see any problems here, you know. 212 00:12:44,120 --> 00:12:47,480 Really? Because fishing in the rest of the world is a big problem. 213 00:12:47,480 --> 00:12:52,040 Out in the oceans, there's a massive depletion... I know, 're still buying permits 214 00:12:52,040 --> 00:12:55,960 and looking forward to our kids doing the same thing we're doing. 215 00:12:55,960 --> 00:12:59,720 I think 30 years from now this will be a profitable business. 216 00:12:59,720 --> 00:13:02,200 Despite Tim's assurances, 217 00:13:02,200 --> 00:13:05,920 I still wonder about the long-term impact on the ecosystem. 218 00:13:07,640 --> 00:13:09,600 You know, Russell's pretty strong... 219 00:13:09,600 --> 00:13:13,720 The season's almost over and the Cabanas are starting to take it easy. 220 00:13:27,840 --> 00:13:30,000 Whoo! If you go, I will. 221 00:13:30,000 --> 00:13:34,000 I don't know, you know what? I'm too old for that, you know. 222 00:13:35,520 --> 00:13:38,400 I don't know, Bruce, you look pretty good to me. 223 00:13:41,360 --> 00:13:45,280 Oh, he's using excuses. Jeez. 224 00:13:41,360 --> 00:13:45,280 Oh, man! 225 00:13:46,320 --> 00:13:48,840 Yeah! Whoo! 226 00:13:48,840 --> 00:13:50,680 Yeah! 227 00:13:54,360 --> 00:13:56,160 All right! 228 00:13:58,840 --> 00:14:03,400 The Cabanas believe in what they're doing and work hard for their money. 229 00:14:03,400 --> 00:14:07,880 They have an affluent lifestyle and a strong family bond. 230 00:14:10,560 --> 00:14:12,360 This is how we make our living 231 00:14:12,360 --> 00:14:14,320 but it's also kind of a way of life. 232 00:14:14,320 --> 00:14:16,480 We've been doing it forever. 233 00:14:16,480 --> 00:14:18,600 This is how we grew up. 234 00:14:18,600 --> 00:14:21,960 So it's kind of cool that my kids get to do the same thing, 235 00:14:21,960 --> 00:14:24,880 grow up and have the same experiences that I did. 236 00:14:24,880 --> 00:14:27,320 Berry's dad was a fisherman, you know, 237 00:14:27,320 --> 00:14:31,880 and she grew up on a tender, instead of a fishing boat. 238 00:14:31,880 --> 00:14:34,120 It's a great way to raise your kids. 239 00:14:31,880 --> 00:14:34,120 Yeah. 240 00:14:34,120 --> 00:14:35,600 ..Three! 241 00:14:48,240 --> 00:14:50,560 Everyone's drinking beer, music's on. 242 00:14:50,560 --> 00:14:54,400 Bit of meat on the barbecue and, er... 243 00:14:54,400 --> 00:14:57,480 and a lot of fish in the tanks, people seem pretty chilled. 244 00:14:58,520 --> 00:15:01,840 And...they're a really happy bunch. 245 00:15:01,840 --> 00:15:04,400 That's awful good, isn't it? 246 00:15:04,400 --> 00:15:08,960 Really good. What's the secret to barbecuing this? It's fresh. 247 00:15:04,400 --> 00:15:08,960 Yeah, fresh. 248 00:15:08,960 --> 00:15:12,600 I'm hitching a ride on the tender boat back to town 249 00:15:12,600 --> 00:15:16,920 to continue my journey north through Alaska. 250 00:15:16,920 --> 00:15:19,800 Guys, I'm going to run away. It's been great, man. 251 00:15:19,800 --> 00:15:22,560 Really nice to meet you. Thanks for helping out. 252 00:15:22,560 --> 00:15:25,760 No, real pleasure. You're a great deckhand! 253 00:15:25,760 --> 00:15:29,360 Thanks, Bruce. Thank you so much. Yeah! Enjoy the rest of your season. 254 00:15:29,360 --> 00:15:33,000 One more day, we'd have made a fisherman out of you! 255 00:15:33,000 --> 00:15:34,440 Back to port! 256 00:15:35,960 --> 00:15:37,440 OK. 257 00:15:37,440 --> 00:15:39,760 Stay well, guys. 258 00:15:39,760 --> 00:15:40,840 Thanks so much. 259 00:15:40,840 --> 00:15:42,520 Enjoy the rest of the season. 260 00:15:44,560 --> 00:15:47,360 I was initially unsure about the industrial nature 261 00:15:47,360 --> 00:15:51,960 of this fishing business, and although I still have 262 00:15:47,360 --> 00:15:51,960 some questions, 263 00:15:51,960 --> 00:15:56,440 I'm told that, if managed well, the fishing here will go on forever. 264 00:16:04,840 --> 00:16:08,960 Alaska has 34,000 miles of coastline, 265 00:16:08,960 --> 00:16:11,920 harbouring unimaginable wealth. 266 00:16:11,920 --> 00:16:13,560 As well as its fisheries, 267 00:16:13,560 --> 00:16:17,920 there are vast reserves of oil, gas and minerals under the sea bed. 268 00:16:17,920 --> 00:16:22,320 These riches have been a magnet for pioneers and dreamers 269 00:16:22,320 --> 00:16:26,760 for hundreds of years, and nothing fires the imagination like gold. 270 00:16:26,760 --> 00:16:30,200 I'm travelling to a town called Nome, 271 00:16:30,200 --> 00:16:32,920 100 kilometres south of the Arctic Circle 272 00:16:32,920 --> 00:16:34,680 on the shores of the Bering Sea, 273 00:16:34,680 --> 00:16:37,040 to meet some modern-day gold-diggers. 274 00:16:39,840 --> 00:16:43,680 At the turn of the last century, 275 00:16:39,840 --> 00:16:43,680 Nome was the site 276 00:16:43,680 --> 00:16:46,760 of one of the most famous gold rushes in history. 277 00:16:46,760 --> 00:16:49,560 In the last five years the price of gold has tripled 278 00:16:49,560 --> 00:16:52,880 and Nome is luring a new wave of prospectors. 279 00:16:58,000 --> 00:17:03,120 This is Spencer Phillips, from Birmingham, Alabama, 280 00:16:58,000 --> 00:17:03,120 in the Deep South. 281 00:17:03,120 --> 00:17:05,600 He comes here for three months every year 282 00:17:05,600 --> 00:17:08,160 with his father, Steve, in search of gold. 283 00:17:08,160 --> 00:17:11,560 Spencer, how long has your dad been coming to this beach? 284 00:17:13,080 --> 00:17:19,080 We started coming up here when I was 15 and that was 18 years ago. 285 00:17:19,080 --> 00:17:21,640 And there's still gold here? Absolutely. 286 00:17:21,640 --> 00:17:24,640 Not as much, but there's still some gold here. 287 00:17:26,840 --> 00:17:31,480 Eventually we arrive at Spencer and Steve's camp. 288 00:17:31,480 --> 00:17:34,680 Home sweet home. Indeed. 289 00:17:37,080 --> 00:17:39,520 Steven. 290 00:17:39,520 --> 00:17:41,760 Hello, there. I'm Bruce. 291 00:17:41,760 --> 00:17:43,840 Pleasure to meet you. Nice to meet you. 292 00:17:43,840 --> 00:17:48,120 Absolutely. Well, you've got by far the best-looking hut on the beach. 293 00:17:48,120 --> 00:17:52,360 The others all look quite dilapidated, 294 00:17:48,120 --> 00:17:52,360 but this looks amazing. 295 00:17:52,360 --> 00:17:54,480 And we catch our rainwater here. Yes. 296 00:17:54,480 --> 00:17:56,080 And let it go into the shower, 297 00:17:56,080 --> 00:17:59,120 so we don't have to haul as much water from the rivers. 298 00:17:59,120 --> 00:18:00,880 Where's the nearest river? 299 00:18:00,880 --> 00:18:03,520 About four miles, the Penny. 300 00:18:03,520 --> 00:18:07,160 And then another mile beyond that's the Cripple River. 301 00:18:07,160 --> 00:18:09,600 And are any of those gold-bearing rivers? 302 00:18:09,600 --> 00:18:11,360 All of them. Really? 303 00:18:11,360 --> 00:18:16,040 All this area... Alaska has got a lot of gold. 304 00:18:16,040 --> 00:18:19,560 A lot of all kinds of things in Alaska. Alaska is a rich state. 305 00:18:21,640 --> 00:18:26,400 Steve and Spencer are part of a small, eccentric community of miners 306 00:18:26,400 --> 00:18:28,960 who make camp here each summer. 307 00:18:28,960 --> 00:18:30,680 All the gold-diggers are men, 308 00:18:30,680 --> 00:18:34,200 who have left their families down south in pursuit of riches, 309 00:18:34,200 --> 00:18:38,200 the remnants of America's last great gold rush. 310 00:18:39,760 --> 00:18:42,960 They discovered there was actually fine gold on the beach 311 00:18:42,960 --> 00:18:46,600 and so then they called this the golden sands of Nome. 312 00:18:46,600 --> 00:18:50,480 They weren't golden but there's gold in the sands. So they'd have a claim, 313 00:18:50,480 --> 00:18:53,880 the length of a shovel that way and the length of a shovel that way, 314 00:18:53,880 --> 00:18:58,320 from the beach to the tundra, and that was it. And they could get enough money... 315 00:18:58,320 --> 00:19:02,800 This place was littered with people? It was whitened with tents, it looked like snow. 316 00:19:06,000 --> 00:19:10,440 Today the best gold is found at the bottom of the sea, 317 00:19:10,440 --> 00:19:13,320 using bizarre, home-made dredging machines. 318 00:19:14,520 --> 00:19:18,040 The prospectors dive down to the sea bed 319 00:19:18,040 --> 00:19:21,360 and use a long hose to hoover up the sand. 320 00:19:21,360 --> 00:19:25,760 They spend up to nine hours a day sucking up all the silt and stones 321 00:19:25,760 --> 00:19:29,240 into their sluice box on the surface, 322 00:19:29,240 --> 00:19:32,680 where the tiny specks of gold collect at the bottom. 323 00:19:32,680 --> 00:19:36,160 With freezing temperatures and terrible visibility, 324 00:19:36,160 --> 00:19:38,440 dredging at sea is a risky business. 325 00:19:38,440 --> 00:19:40,520 Things can easily go wrong. 326 00:19:40,520 --> 00:19:44,560 One of the divers, Lonny, has run into trouble just after launching. 327 00:19:44,560 --> 00:19:47,480 He just got swamped. His transfer broke. 328 00:19:47,480 --> 00:19:49,560 This is really bad. 329 00:19:49,560 --> 00:19:52,320 His engine has failed in the middle of the breaking waves 330 00:19:52,320 --> 00:19:54,480 and he has to turn around and make it to land. 331 00:19:54,480 --> 00:19:56,640 Pull that end. 332 00:19:56,640 --> 00:19:58,200 Over there, Ryan. 333 00:19:58,200 --> 00:19:59,720 The back. 334 00:20:01,360 --> 00:20:03,920 There's plenty of help here today, 335 00:20:03,920 --> 00:20:06,960 but usually these men are out on their own 336 00:20:06,960 --> 00:20:09,920 and minor problems can become life-threatening. 337 00:20:09,920 --> 00:20:12,280 We had a rope pegging him down 338 00:20:12,280 --> 00:20:15,960 and it caught on the prop and pulled the motor back under. 339 00:20:15,960 --> 00:20:19,800 So, as soon as the outboard went back, he had no power left 340 00:20:19,800 --> 00:20:23,480 and he was sort of at the mercy of the waves. 341 00:20:23,480 --> 00:20:27,160 And, luckily, it wasn't so bad and we managed to get him back in. 342 00:20:27,160 --> 00:20:29,880 But you can imagine, doing that on your own - 343 00:20:29,880 --> 00:20:34,680 which they do most of the time - that could've been really quite serious. 344 00:20:34,680 --> 00:20:40,000 Are you going to try the other one now? Yeah. Not to be outdone, he's found another one 345 00:20:40,000 --> 00:20:45,040 and he's going straight back out. I think that pretty much sums up 346 00:20:40,000 --> 00:20:45,040 the spirit of these guys. 347 00:20:45,040 --> 00:20:47,720 They're determined. 348 00:20:47,720 --> 00:20:51,840 The sea temperature here sometimes dips below zero. 349 00:20:51,840 --> 00:20:54,960 Diving in the Bering Sea is not for the faint-hearted. 350 00:20:54,960 --> 00:21:00,400 There was a guy drowned a few years ago up here, 351 00:20:54,960 --> 00:21:00,400 in four feet of water 352 00:21:00,400 --> 00:21:03,520 with his feet sticking out of the water, and drowned. 353 00:21:03,520 --> 00:21:05,960 But it was his first trip. 354 00:21:05,960 --> 00:21:08,840 He made some of his own decisions and they were wrong. 355 00:21:08,840 --> 00:21:11,120 It's just the lure of gold. 356 00:21:13,840 --> 00:21:16,080 In the comfort of Steve's cabin, 357 00:21:16,080 --> 00:21:19,120 it's Alaskan salmon on the menu once again. 358 00:21:20,200 --> 00:21:26,360 I could eat a whole one of those, it's so delicious. You may have to. 359 00:21:20,200 --> 00:21:26,360 I ate a whole one. 360 00:21:26,360 --> 00:21:28,480 Well... Did you catch this today? 361 00:21:28,480 --> 00:21:30,200 Yes, today. 362 00:21:30,200 --> 00:21:34,120 Absolute luxury, I've got a proper cot bed, 363 00:21:34,120 --> 00:21:38,800 a sleeping bag, a pillow, all mod cons... 364 00:21:38,800 --> 00:21:42,440 I've got a tiny little thing here I can go for a wee in in the night, 365 00:21:42,440 --> 00:21:44,640 so I don't even have to go outside. 366 00:21:44,640 --> 00:21:47,000 Genuinely, this place is set up. 367 00:21:47,000 --> 00:21:53,080 It's amazing. And tomorrow I'm going dredging for gold out in the ocean, 368 00:21:53,080 --> 00:21:57,200 the Bering Sea, which is a little bit perturbing, 369 00:21:57,200 --> 00:22:01,320 but I'm in safe hands, so I'm going to get some sleep. 370 00:22:10,960 --> 00:22:14,400 So what's the weather like today for dredging? 371 00:22:14,400 --> 00:22:19,920 Right now, it's marginal. The rollers would rock the dredge around quite a bit 372 00:22:19,920 --> 00:22:23,840 and make it not work good. We need a little more sunlight, too. 373 00:22:23,840 --> 00:22:25,880 OK. Why do you need the sunlight? 374 00:22:25,880 --> 00:22:29,800 Just for visibility? So you can see. So we can see gold. 375 00:22:29,800 --> 00:22:32,320 You want to see that glitter at the bottom! 376 00:22:32,320 --> 00:22:35,680 Gold does not glitter. It only shines. 377 00:22:35,680 --> 00:22:38,280 No sparkling. The sparkling stuff... 378 00:22:38,280 --> 00:22:40,200 Is the fool's gold. 379 00:22:40,200 --> 00:22:44,240 Would it be fair to say you came up here to make your fortune 380 00:22:44,240 --> 00:22:47,040 and ended up making it into a lifestyle? 381 00:22:47,040 --> 00:22:50,440 No, no, we didn't come... We came for an adventure 382 00:22:50,440 --> 00:22:52,240 and we still come for an adventure. 383 00:22:52,240 --> 00:22:56,600 Gold is now worth over $1,200 an ounce 384 00:22:56,600 --> 00:23:00,560 and Steve finds between one and two ounces a day. 385 00:23:00,560 --> 00:23:03,400 What have we got in here, then? This looks exciting. 386 00:23:03,400 --> 00:23:07,680 Let's look at some gold first. That's about $20,000. 387 00:23:07,680 --> 00:23:10,240 Twenty grand? Out of 24 carat gold, 388 00:23:10,240 --> 00:23:15,000 this is 22. 21, 22, right in there. That's high-grade gold you're getting. High-grade, yeah. 389 00:23:15,000 --> 00:23:18,120 This is the kind of stuff I use to make jewellery with. 390 00:23:19,520 --> 00:23:22,160 It's hard to come by. 391 00:23:22,160 --> 00:23:27,640 I fabricate 'em and then I put little nuggets on 'em. The nuggets are natural. 392 00:23:27,640 --> 00:23:32,360 They're not made up, they're the way nature made 'em. 393 00:23:32,360 --> 00:23:34,240 It's sort of fun for me. 394 00:23:34,240 --> 00:23:37,640 You got any earring holes? I haven't, I'm afraid, no. 395 00:23:37,640 --> 00:23:39,840 Me neither. Otherwise I'd try them out. 396 00:23:43,080 --> 00:23:47,720 The weather's improved, and conditions are looking good for diving. 397 00:23:48,680 --> 00:23:51,720 We've been given the all-clear for the weather. 398 00:23:51,720 --> 00:23:53,560 The visibility looks good, 399 00:23:53,560 --> 00:23:56,640 we can see, when the waves come over, they're quite clear 400 00:23:56,640 --> 00:24:00,400 and it's not too rocky. We're hoping the sun's going to come out. 401 00:24:00,400 --> 00:24:03,600 It's a whole different pace today, we're really moving fast. 402 00:24:03,600 --> 00:24:07,840 Pre-flight. Air in the tyres, air in the pontoons. 403 00:24:07,840 --> 00:24:12,240 Make sure your pull-out rope is set right, which it is. 404 00:24:12,240 --> 00:24:14,200 Make sure we've got fuel. 405 00:24:14,200 --> 00:24:16,560 Too much fuel. We're good. 406 00:24:16,560 --> 00:24:19,040 Today I woke up, Steve looked me in the eye and goes, 407 00:24:19,040 --> 00:24:22,520 "You're working today. I'm going to work you hard and you're going to see 408 00:24:22,520 --> 00:24:26,280 "what it's like to dredge and you're going to really feel it." 409 00:24:26,280 --> 00:24:28,200 I'm the drill sergeant. 410 00:24:28,200 --> 00:24:33,200 He's also very generously said that, if I get gold, I'm going to keep it. 411 00:24:33,200 --> 00:24:36,320 Bruce said we're going to have fun. I told him if we have fun, 412 00:24:36,320 --> 00:24:39,400 something's wrong cos I don't plan on him having fun. 413 00:24:39,400 --> 00:24:42,680 This is about work, this is not a play day. 414 00:24:42,680 --> 00:24:45,360 This is unlike any diving I've done before. 415 00:24:46,920 --> 00:24:50,680 I have one line for my air coming down from the dredge 416 00:24:50,680 --> 00:24:54,640 and one for hot water, which will be pumping through my wet suit. 417 00:24:57,360 --> 00:24:58,240 Go! 418 00:25:10,440 --> 00:25:15,520 There's a very different feel being here on this makeshift raft 419 00:25:15,520 --> 00:25:18,480 than it is back over there, drinking coffee 420 00:25:18,480 --> 00:25:21,720 and watching everyone go out to sea. This is the real thing. 421 00:25:21,720 --> 00:25:26,640 Start blowing out your nose, break the seal, tilt your head back... 422 00:25:26,640 --> 00:25:31,160 Normally, the divers go down alone but, as I'm new to this type of diving, 423 00:25:31,160 --> 00:25:35,640 Spencer, who's a fully trained instructor, wants to watch over me. 424 00:25:35,640 --> 00:25:38,960 I'm going to roll off the front, 425 00:25:35,640 --> 00:25:38,960 come around and help you a bit more. 426 00:25:43,320 --> 00:25:45,240 It's not very deep... 427 00:25:45,240 --> 00:25:48,920 but...well, a lot of things could go wrong. 428 00:25:48,920 --> 00:25:52,040 So, you know, I'm having to deal with that. 429 00:25:52,040 --> 00:25:53,920 But we'll be all right. 430 00:26:18,200 --> 00:26:23,240 It's cold and I'm glad of that hot water pumping through my wetsuit. 431 00:26:28,440 --> 00:26:31,920 It's hard physical work and I have to take care 432 00:26:31,920 --> 00:26:33,880 not to hoover up any wildlife. 433 00:26:40,280 --> 00:26:45,640 Even in this murky water, it's possible to see glimpses of gold. 434 00:26:45,640 --> 00:26:47,280 I work as hard as I can 435 00:26:47,280 --> 00:26:52,200 and wonder how much gold is settling into my sluice box on the surface. 436 00:26:57,000 --> 00:26:59,640 After I've been down for almost an hour, 437 00:26:59,640 --> 00:27:02,400 Spencer decides to call it a day. 438 00:27:09,160 --> 00:27:12,920 Whoa! 439 00:27:09,160 --> 00:27:12,920 HE LAUGHS 440 00:27:13,000 --> 00:27:16,000 Oh, my God! 441 00:27:16,000 --> 00:27:20,000 You were really lucky. It just so happened you were in good gold. 442 00:27:20,000 --> 00:27:24,440 That's why you were dredging under the tailings. It was really visible, you know. 443 00:27:24,440 --> 00:27:26,640 I didn't realise how clear it was going to be. 444 00:27:26,640 --> 00:27:30,240 I know I had a torch, because Spencer was right next to me, 445 00:27:30,240 --> 00:27:33,200 but you can really see that stuff, it's shining away. 446 00:27:34,280 --> 00:27:36,560 You're being swayed around quite a lot 447 00:27:36,560 --> 00:27:39,200 and then I found my nozzle and then it was, like, 448 00:27:39,200 --> 00:27:42,240 no-one's going to tell me nothing, I've just got to get on with this. 449 00:27:42,240 --> 00:27:46,240 So just stuffed the nozzle in the ground and started moving rocks around 450 00:27:46,240 --> 00:27:51,040 and I just got the hang of it when I was down there. It's an adventure. It really is. 451 00:27:52,720 --> 00:27:59,200 There you go. Look at that. Yeah, just here. I've watched you guys do this but this one's mine. 452 00:27:59,200 --> 00:28:01,240 This is yours. Yes, so I'm really watching. 453 00:28:01,240 --> 00:28:05,320 You're like, "Be very careful. Don't spill that, don't spill that at all." 454 00:28:05,320 --> 00:28:08,720 That's right. OK, so we can roll that up. 455 00:28:09,720 --> 00:28:14,280 That's my silt and muck, but somewhere 456 00:28:14,280 --> 00:28:18,280 there's some gold in there and that's my pay. 457 00:28:21,000 --> 00:28:23,560 Thank you, mate. Amazing. 458 00:28:23,560 --> 00:28:26,880 We've got a lot of work to do yet but, obviously, in my mind 459 00:28:26,880 --> 00:28:29,400 I'm just thinking, "What's in that bucket?" 460 00:28:29,400 --> 00:28:32,760 OK, let's see... Bring that bucket, let's look here. 461 00:28:32,760 --> 00:28:36,680 We've just got to get the rest of this dirt off that yellow stuff. 462 00:28:36,680 --> 00:28:39,720 We shouldn't get our hopes too high in what you did 463 00:28:39,720 --> 00:28:41,480 cos you don't have experience. 464 00:28:41,480 --> 00:28:43,680 Can you see any? Not really. 465 00:28:43,680 --> 00:28:45,840 I don't see any. Not yet. 466 00:28:45,840 --> 00:28:48,480 Want me to hold it? No, I want you to do it. 467 00:28:48,480 --> 00:28:52,320 Really? You've had your training, 468 00:28:48,480 --> 00:28:52,320 you watched me. Go for it. 469 00:28:54,680 --> 00:28:57,600 If you do it wrong, you pour out the gold. 470 00:28:57,600 --> 00:29:01,120 But this is much harder than people think. 471 00:29:01,120 --> 00:29:03,720 Isn't it ever? Let a wave come in and out. 472 00:29:03,720 --> 00:29:04,840 OK. Gentle wave, 473 00:29:04,840 --> 00:29:08,680 and they have to be uniform. 474 00:29:04,840 --> 00:29:08,680 I've got bits of gold coming out. 475 00:29:08,680 --> 00:29:09,800 No, you don't. OK. 476 00:29:09,800 --> 00:29:11,600 Those are just shiny things. 477 00:29:11,600 --> 00:29:14,120 Can you imagine doing a lot of it? 478 00:29:14,120 --> 00:29:16,160 My hand's hurting already, yeah. 479 00:29:17,920 --> 00:29:21,200 I think you're going to have more gold than I thought you would. 480 00:29:26,760 --> 00:29:30,520 It looks to me like Bruce did a damn sight better than I thought. 481 00:29:30,520 --> 00:29:34,560 Now you're regretting giving me anything at all. No, I'm extremely happy. 482 00:29:34,560 --> 00:29:38,800 You've got 4.1 pennyweight, you've found $200 worth of gold. 483 00:29:38,800 --> 00:29:39,840 Is that right? 484 00:29:39,840 --> 00:29:42,480 The only real reason I got anything at all 485 00:29:42,480 --> 00:29:45,240 is cos you threw me in that amazing spot 486 00:29:45,240 --> 00:29:48,840 and you gave me all your expertise and your family's support 487 00:29:48,840 --> 00:29:51,680 and all of the contraptions that are out there. 488 00:29:51,680 --> 00:29:53,920 This is yours. 489 00:29:53,920 --> 00:29:56,040 You own this. 490 00:29:56,040 --> 00:29:58,880 Congratulations. You did a great job. 491 00:29:58,880 --> 00:30:00,920 Really, I'm... You really did great. 492 00:30:00,920 --> 00:30:02,640 Steve, you are a gentleman. 493 00:30:02,640 --> 00:30:05,120 How about that? How about that? 494 00:30:05,120 --> 00:30:08,720 200 bucks for an hour's work with my, er... 495 00:30:08,720 --> 00:30:12,640 You earned your gold. ..with my mentor here in the gold-digging business. 496 00:30:14,160 --> 00:30:19,200 I've... I've enjoyed... looking for gold, 497 00:30:19,200 --> 00:30:21,840 but I do enjoy passionate people, 498 00:30:21,840 --> 00:30:24,560 and I've never met more passionate people 499 00:30:24,560 --> 00:30:28,440 than guys who are willing to come up here for months at a time, 500 00:30:28,440 --> 00:30:30,680 in pretty treacherous circumstances, 501 00:30:30,680 --> 00:30:34,600 and go out there and essentially risk their lives for something 502 00:30:34,600 --> 00:30:37,240 that isn't anything they need financially, 503 00:30:37,240 --> 00:30:41,560 but it's something they enjoy doing, and that has been infectious. 504 00:30:41,560 --> 00:30:45,120 It's been such an amazing experience for me to come here, 505 00:30:45,120 --> 00:30:47,760 live with you and your family and friends, 506 00:30:47,760 --> 00:30:51,800 and see your eyes twinkling with 507 00:30:47,760 --> 00:30:51,800 all of that shiny stuff out there. 508 00:30:53,840 --> 00:30:58,240 Thank you. And enjoy the rest of your time up here. 509 00:31:00,080 --> 00:31:01,600 Stay well, man. 510 00:31:06,520 --> 00:31:08,400 Like the fishermen I met down south, 511 00:31:08,400 --> 00:31:13,160 Steve and the other prospectors come to Alaska to exploit the natural world. 512 00:31:13,160 --> 00:31:15,000 But where I'm going next, 513 00:31:15,000 --> 00:31:18,960 the people have a very different relationship with their environment. 514 00:31:21,920 --> 00:31:25,800 I'm on my way north to meet some of Alaska's original inhabitants, 515 00:31:25,800 --> 00:31:30,200 the Inupiak, an Inuit group like those I lived with in Greenland. 516 00:31:32,400 --> 00:31:35,400 This will be the most difficult part of my journey. 517 00:31:35,400 --> 00:31:39,280 The Inupiak hunt whales and, 518 00:31:35,400 --> 00:31:39,280 though this is highly controversial, 519 00:31:39,280 --> 00:31:43,200 they are fiercely proud of their ancient tradition. 520 00:31:45,120 --> 00:31:49,120 I'm heading across the Arctic Circle to the village of Kaktovik, 521 00:31:49,120 --> 00:31:52,160 on the very edge of the North American continent, 522 00:31:52,160 --> 00:31:54,760 within 523 00:31:52,160 --> 00:31:54,760 the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge. 524 00:31:56,160 --> 00:31:59,560 I've come to witness the Inupiaks' annual whale hunt, 525 00:31:59,560 --> 00:32:01,840 to understand what it means to them, 526 00:32:01,840 --> 00:32:04,480 and why they are so determined to continue. 527 00:32:04,480 --> 00:32:07,280 I'm a little bit worried about going into Kaktovik, 528 00:32:07,280 --> 00:32:12,080 especially at this time of year, because the people there are fed up 529 00:32:07,280 --> 00:32:12,080 with foreigners coming in 530 00:32:12,080 --> 00:32:15,480 and passing judgment on what they've been doing for thousands of years. 531 00:32:15,480 --> 00:32:17,640 I've no idea what my reception will be like, 532 00:32:17,640 --> 00:32:21,560 but I know some sections of the community simply just don't want me there. 533 00:32:23,080 --> 00:32:26,320 The people here lived in isolation for thousands of years 534 00:32:26,320 --> 00:32:29,000 until the arrival of traders and missionaries, 535 00:32:29,000 --> 00:32:31,320 who converted them to Christianity 536 00:32:31,320 --> 00:32:34,480 and forced them to change much of their culture. 537 00:32:34,480 --> 00:32:39,440 This tiny, inaccessible village is home to around 300 people 538 00:32:39,440 --> 00:32:43,920 and is established on the annual migration route of the bowhead whale, 539 00:32:43,920 --> 00:32:48,280 which has fed the Inupiak for almost 5,000 years. 540 00:32:51,200 --> 00:32:55,080 My first impressions are of a bleak, isolated place, 541 00:32:55,080 --> 00:32:58,600 and I don't feel very welcome. 542 00:32:58,600 --> 00:33:02,640 DOGS BARK 543 00:33:02,640 --> 00:33:08,320 I don't think I've ever been so out on a limb on arrival in a community. 544 00:33:08,320 --> 00:33:12,680 I've hardly met anyone and I'm not living with a family. 545 00:33:12,680 --> 00:33:14,240 I'm in the local guesthouse. 546 00:33:14,240 --> 00:33:19,400 I'm told that I shouldn't really even be wandering around cos the 547 00:33:14,240 --> 00:33:19,400 place is teeming with wildlife, 548 00:33:19,400 --> 00:33:21,720 especially, right now, the polar bears. 549 00:33:21,720 --> 00:33:24,120 And I know that there's all sorts of activity 550 00:33:24,120 --> 00:33:26,120 going on throughout the community. 551 00:33:26,120 --> 00:33:29,600 It's the beginning of their annual whaling season 552 00:33:29,600 --> 00:33:33,320 and tomorrow is their first hunt of the year, 553 00:33:33,320 --> 00:33:37,200 and so people are sharpening 554 00:33:33,320 --> 00:33:37,200 harpoons, collecting the explosives 555 00:33:37,200 --> 00:33:41,480 in preparation for this big day tomorrow, but I'm not privy to 556 00:33:37,200 --> 00:33:41,480 any of it. 557 00:33:44,880 --> 00:33:47,920 Whale-hunting was banned in the late '70s 558 00:33:47,920 --> 00:33:51,920 by the International Whaling Commission, but when it was 559 00:33:47,920 --> 00:33:51,920 established that 560 00:33:51,920 --> 00:33:54,760 the bowhead population was healthy, 561 00:33:54,760 --> 00:33:58,800 the indigenous people were allowed to resume hunting a limited number. 562 00:33:58,800 --> 00:34:02,480 This year, Kaktovik can take three. 563 00:34:02,480 --> 00:34:06,600 It's a highly emotive subject and they are suspicious of outsiders. 564 00:34:14,200 --> 00:34:17,760 Conditions out at sea are no good for hunting today, 565 00:34:17,760 --> 00:34:21,520 so I get a chance to make friends before the whaling begins. 566 00:34:22,520 --> 00:34:25,960 I've arranged to meet the Rexford family at their home. 567 00:34:25,960 --> 00:34:29,840 Eddie works as a guide for the small number of tourists that come here 568 00:34:29,840 --> 00:34:33,880 and, as such, is more open to meeting outsiders. 569 00:34:33,880 --> 00:34:37,240 Is this Marie? Yes, that's my wife, Marie. 570 00:34:37,240 --> 00:34:38,960 How are you doing? Hello. Good. 571 00:34:38,960 --> 00:34:41,640 I'm Bruce. Marie. Lovely. Don't worry about me, 572 00:34:41,640 --> 00:34:44,360 I'm used to getting nice and mucky. I don't mind. 573 00:34:44,360 --> 00:34:49,800 OK, so this is the baleen? Yeah. So why are you cleaning this up? 574 00:34:49,800 --> 00:34:53,520 We try to supplement our income making native crafts. 575 00:34:53,520 --> 00:34:54,720 Right. 576 00:34:54,720 --> 00:34:57,440 'The baleen comes from inside the whale's mouth 577 00:34:57,440 --> 00:35:00,000 'and is used for etching traditional scenes.' 578 00:35:00,000 --> 00:35:04,000 Try to get it as clean as possible, get all the smelly stuff, 579 00:35:04,000 --> 00:35:05,760 the oil, off of it. 580 00:35:05,760 --> 00:35:08,080 And this is from last year, is it? Yeah. 581 00:35:08,080 --> 00:35:11,200 And how many boats will be going out this time, do you think? 582 00:35:11,200 --> 00:35:12,320 I think six. Five. 583 00:35:12,320 --> 00:35:13,360 Five or six. 584 00:35:13,360 --> 00:35:15,880 'It's immediately made very clear to me 585 00:35:15,880 --> 00:35:20,480 'that filming the whale hunt itself is not allowed in Inupiak culture.' 586 00:35:20,480 --> 00:35:24,960 Kind of the feeling is, um... the whaling part's not... 587 00:35:24,960 --> 00:35:28,760 you know, nobody's allowed to go out for commercial purposes to film. 588 00:35:28,760 --> 00:35:31,960 The film crews in the past, we don't know where they come from 589 00:35:31,960 --> 00:35:34,200 and what they're going to use the film for. 590 00:35:34,200 --> 00:35:36,680 Sure. Some have different agendas, 591 00:35:36,680 --> 00:35:43,280 and, er, sometimes, they make the community feel misrepresented. 592 00:35:43,280 --> 00:35:46,960 That's why there's reluctance on some people here 593 00:35:46,960 --> 00:35:49,440 to film some of the stuff. 594 00:35:51,560 --> 00:35:57,040 The Inupiak believe that the whale gives itself to the hunter voluntarily, 595 00:35:57,040 --> 00:36:01,000 but only if they treat it with respect and are properly prepared. 596 00:36:01,000 --> 00:36:03,200 Though Eddie isn't whaling this year, 597 00:36:03,200 --> 00:36:05,840 he will still receive a share of the harvest. 598 00:36:05,840 --> 00:36:08,760 That's a real Aladdin's cave. Shall I join you, Eddie? 599 00:36:08,760 --> 00:36:11,520 'Before whaling starts, Eddie has to clean out 600 00:36:11,520 --> 00:36:15,360 'the family ice cellar to prepare it for the arrival of the whale.' 601 00:36:16,960 --> 00:36:19,040 Did you help make this? 602 00:36:19,040 --> 00:36:21,080 Yes, I helped my father. 603 00:36:21,080 --> 00:36:23,600 It's all done by hand. Yeah, I bet. 604 00:36:23,600 --> 00:36:25,560 Ice-pick and shovels. 605 00:36:25,560 --> 00:36:30,800 So we're right in the permafrost 606 00:36:25,560 --> 00:36:30,800 here. Even in the hottest day in the summer, this will always be frozen? 607 00:36:30,800 --> 00:36:34,200 Yep, right. What can I do to help clean this place out, Eddie? 608 00:36:34,200 --> 00:36:36,800 You probably just need to move some of this meat. 609 00:36:36,800 --> 00:36:39,680 This big caribou and these legs? 610 00:36:39,680 --> 00:36:41,760 We can move them, yep. Yeah, yeah, OK. 611 00:36:41,760 --> 00:36:44,760 So, tell me, why do we need to clean up the cellar? 612 00:36:44,760 --> 00:36:49,040 We've been taught that the whales 613 00:36:44,760 --> 00:36:49,040 want to come to a clean cellar. 614 00:36:49,040 --> 00:36:51,400 The whales want to come to a clean cellar? 615 00:36:51,400 --> 00:36:53,040 Yeah. What do you mean by that? 616 00:36:53,040 --> 00:36:56,680 Well, we have this relationship with the whales 617 00:36:56,680 --> 00:36:59,840 where...they want to be... 618 00:36:59,840 --> 00:37:05,120 harvested by a person who is, you know, not lazy, 619 00:37:05,120 --> 00:37:08,280 and has a clean cellar, and that's part of how we were taught. 620 00:37:08,280 --> 00:37:12,120 They already know what people are planning, 621 00:37:12,120 --> 00:37:17,240 because of that connection we have. Really? We don't actually decide 622 00:37:17,240 --> 00:37:19,880 who catches the whale. 623 00:37:17,240 --> 00:37:19,880 It's the whale who decides. 624 00:37:19,880 --> 00:37:22,680 The whale decides? Yep. OK. 625 00:37:26,000 --> 00:37:28,840 While we're waiting for the whale hunt to begin, 626 00:37:28,840 --> 00:37:32,600 Eddie takes me for a walk 627 00:37:28,840 --> 00:37:32,600 along the beach outside the village, 628 00:37:32,600 --> 00:37:36,800 where some other visitors are also waiting for the whale to come in. 629 00:37:37,760 --> 00:37:39,440 Quite a size, that one. 630 00:37:39,440 --> 00:37:41,560 Is that medium or large? 631 00:37:41,560 --> 00:37:43,960 That's large. It looks pretty big. 632 00:37:43,960 --> 00:37:46,720 Mm-hm. 633 00:37:46,720 --> 00:37:48,640 What d'you reckon? 634 00:37:48,640 --> 00:37:50,280 I think he'd probably have me. 635 00:37:51,280 --> 00:37:54,040 Each year, large numbers of polar bears gather here 636 00:37:54,040 --> 00:37:56,160 for the leftovers from the whale hunt. 637 00:37:56,160 --> 00:38:00,600 They're hungry after their epic 150-mile swim from the Arctic ice pack, 638 00:38:00,600 --> 00:38:03,360 which is getting further away every year. 639 00:38:03,360 --> 00:38:05,960 They're curious, for one thing. 640 00:38:05,960 --> 00:38:10,360 Their nature is not to go after people and attack. 641 00:38:10,360 --> 00:38:15,200 They just want to rest and recuperate after their swim. 642 00:38:15,200 --> 00:38:19,960 And, er, as you can see, they're just sniffing in the wind, 643 00:38:19,960 --> 00:38:25,520 trying to figure out what we are and if we're a threat to them or not. 644 00:38:25,520 --> 00:38:27,760 They're stunningly beautiful animals. 645 00:38:27,760 --> 00:38:32,640 Just really get a sense of its majesty. 646 00:38:33,880 --> 00:38:37,280 To be this close is really, really amazing. 647 00:38:38,440 --> 00:38:41,160 But you don't want to be much closer! 648 00:38:41,160 --> 00:38:45,000 So, Eddie and Bruce are leading me away gently. 649 00:38:45,000 --> 00:38:49,240 Just kind of keep our distance, show our respects. 650 00:38:51,560 --> 00:38:53,240 One of the cubs has seen us 651 00:38:53,240 --> 00:38:56,160 and is making his way over for a closer look. 652 00:38:57,680 --> 00:39:01,160 We don't have any handouts for you! No. 653 00:39:02,360 --> 00:39:06,360 Don't particularly want the cub too close, cos that's... 654 00:39:06,360 --> 00:39:11,520 when Mum starts taking more of an interest than she has so far. 655 00:39:12,640 --> 00:39:15,320 Off you go. Shoo-shoo-shoo! 656 00:39:15,320 --> 00:39:20,600 It's about ten yards away, that cub, and coming closer, so... 657 00:39:20,600 --> 00:39:22,200 Oi! Off you go. 658 00:39:23,720 --> 00:39:25,800 Off you go. Tch-tch-tch! 659 00:39:25,800 --> 00:39:28,800 Off you go. Tch-tch! 660 00:39:28,800 --> 00:39:31,400 Amazing-looking thing. 661 00:39:31,400 --> 00:39:33,600 But we need to be... 662 00:39:33,600 --> 00:39:36,840 We just don't want you here, really. Off you go. Tch-tch! 663 00:39:36,840 --> 00:39:40,760 He's curious, huh? Really curious. 664 00:39:40,760 --> 00:39:44,440 Amazing, but really, you should be going home to your mummy. 665 00:39:44,440 --> 00:39:47,960 You'd better get back to your mom. Better go home. 666 00:39:47,960 --> 00:39:50,800 Go see your mom. We have nothing for you. 667 00:39:50,800 --> 00:39:52,960 Hey? Nothing for you. 668 00:39:52,960 --> 00:39:56,840 But it's beautiful to meet you, but please go back to your mum. 669 00:39:56,840 --> 00:39:59,240 Get back. Get back. Go back. 670 00:39:59,240 --> 00:40:01,680 Go back. Get back. 671 00:40:01,680 --> 00:40:03,480 OK. Thank you. 672 00:40:03,480 --> 00:40:05,280 What an experience. 673 00:40:05,280 --> 00:40:09,680 That's amazing. My first ever encounter with a polar bear 674 00:40:09,680 --> 00:40:13,640 was much closer than I thought it was ever going to be! 675 00:40:13,640 --> 00:40:16,760 Wow! That was very special. 676 00:40:21,600 --> 00:40:24,200 The bears know that the whale is coming, 677 00:40:24,200 --> 00:40:27,600 and have built up that knowledge 678 00:40:24,200 --> 00:40:27,600 over generations. 679 00:40:27,600 --> 00:40:31,040 Like the Inupiak, they too are waiting for the harvest 680 00:40:31,040 --> 00:40:33,560 that will sustain them into the winter. 681 00:40:41,840 --> 00:40:45,480 The whale hunt is organised by five whaling captains. 682 00:40:45,480 --> 00:40:49,400 At first, none of them would speak to me, 683 00:40:49,400 --> 00:40:52,800 but after a week of trying, I get a breakthrough. 684 00:40:55,560 --> 00:40:58,840 Eddie's wife, Marie, has arranged for me to have dinner 685 00:40:58,840 --> 00:41:02,640 with her cousin, James Lampie, the youngest of the five captains. 686 00:41:02,640 --> 00:41:06,080 I see a little bit of Elvis paraphernalia... 687 00:41:06,080 --> 00:41:08,520 Oh, yeah, Elvis... Is that you? 688 00:41:08,520 --> 00:41:10,560 Is that you? Yeah, definitely. 689 00:41:10,560 --> 00:41:11,840 Really? Yeah... 690 00:41:11,840 --> 00:41:15,880 'The Lampies are native Inupiak, 691 00:41:11,840 --> 00:41:15,880 but they're also modern-day Americans, 692 00:41:15,880 --> 00:41:18,640 'with all the trappings of the consumer world.' 693 00:41:18,640 --> 00:41:22,760 I didn't see that! You really are an Elvis fan! 694 00:41:22,760 --> 00:41:26,160 'Alongside James is his wife, Glenda, and their extended family, 695 00:41:26,160 --> 00:41:29,720 'who've all come together for the meal.' 696 00:41:29,720 --> 00:41:31,360 Wow. 697 00:41:31,360 --> 00:41:34,480 Is this, um...whale? 698 00:41:34,480 --> 00:41:36,480 Caribou. Caribou. 699 00:41:36,480 --> 00:41:38,920 THEY SAY GRACE QUIETLY 700 00:41:42,000 --> 00:41:45,600 I've got the biggest plate of all. I'm feeling suddenly very greedy. 701 00:41:49,120 --> 00:41:51,720 What's it like here in the middle of the winter? 702 00:41:51,720 --> 00:41:55,080 Windy! You feel isolated, 703 00:41:55,080 --> 00:41:57,320 everything as far as you can see is just... 704 00:41:57,320 --> 00:42:01,480 White. It being 65, 70 below. It's bone-chilling. 705 00:42:01,480 --> 00:42:05,520 James has been a whaling captain for three years now, 706 00:42:05,520 --> 00:42:08,320 but has yet to catch his first whale. 707 00:42:08,320 --> 00:42:11,040 This was given to me from my father... 708 00:42:11,040 --> 00:42:13,560 when he passed his captainship to me. 709 00:42:15,120 --> 00:42:18,600 It was made by a gentleman 710 00:42:15,120 --> 00:42:18,600 in Wasilla. 711 00:42:18,600 --> 00:42:23,320 I never used it before. I don't think I will use it to cut, but probably, 712 00:42:23,320 --> 00:42:26,720 after I catch my first whale, I'll probably make a cut with it 713 00:42:26,720 --> 00:42:29,960 and then put it back. After your first whale, you'll think... 714 00:42:29,960 --> 00:42:32,200 Cos this is what they use for... 715 00:42:29,960 --> 00:42:32,200 Yeah. 716 00:42:32,200 --> 00:42:33,640 ..for slicing it up. 717 00:42:33,640 --> 00:42:37,520 Well, this is more for show-and-tell, you know. 718 00:42:37,520 --> 00:42:42,640 Symbolic. But your dad gave that to you when he handed over his captaincy to you. 719 00:42:42,640 --> 00:42:44,880 Yes, he did. Wow, what a lovely thing. 720 00:42:46,400 --> 00:42:50,600 After what's been an incredibly tricky week, 721 00:42:50,600 --> 00:42:56,080 I've just been given the amazing 722 00:42:50,600 --> 00:42:56,080 news that he is happy for us to come 723 00:42:56,080 --> 00:42:58,800 and have breakfast with him tomorrow morning, 724 00:42:58,800 --> 00:43:02,360 because tomorrow, they're out on their first hunt of the year. 725 00:43:19,040 --> 00:43:22,240 We all woke up to this. 726 00:43:22,240 --> 00:43:27,680 The wind has died down, the waves have died down. It's actually warm, 727 00:43:27,680 --> 00:43:31,520 and today is the first day that they're all going to be going out. 728 00:43:32,720 --> 00:43:36,320 Even though we have permission to be here from the captain, 729 00:43:36,320 --> 00:43:39,040 some people are clearly unhappy about us filming. 730 00:43:39,040 --> 00:43:40,800 No... 731 00:43:42,400 --> 00:43:44,760 Morning. Hello, good morning. 732 00:43:44,760 --> 00:43:47,880 Is this a special occasion, 733 00:43:44,760 --> 00:43:47,880 the morning of the hunt, always? 734 00:43:47,880 --> 00:43:50,720 Yeah. Make sure everyone gets a good full breakfast 735 00:43:50,720 --> 00:43:53,960 before they go out hunting. Sure. Today is a great day. 736 00:43:53,960 --> 00:43:57,360 We've been waiting for a week now to get out. 737 00:43:57,360 --> 00:44:00,520 The whale is killed by an explosive charge 738 00:44:00,520 --> 00:44:02,400 which detonates inside its body. 739 00:44:02,400 --> 00:44:04,520 It has a little trigger in here. Yes. 740 00:44:04,520 --> 00:44:08,920 And then it fires the little cap 741 00:44:04,520 --> 00:44:08,920 that's in there, and it burns a fuse, 742 00:44:08,920 --> 00:44:11,040 and it gives you so many seconds 743 00:44:11,040 --> 00:44:14,040 to drive away before it actually explodes. 744 00:44:14,040 --> 00:44:16,280 And that will shatter inside it? 745 00:44:14,040 --> 00:44:16,280 Yeah. 746 00:44:16,280 --> 00:44:18,720 OK. And that's essentially the killing blow? 747 00:44:18,720 --> 00:44:19,760 Yep. 748 00:44:19,760 --> 00:44:23,760 How does all this compare to how your ancestors did it, James? 749 00:44:23,760 --> 00:44:27,840 They hunted in skin boats, you know, with no motor or nothing. 750 00:44:27,840 --> 00:44:33,920 And most of the time, they hunted 751 00:44:27,840 --> 00:44:33,920 with a lance and they didn't have... 752 00:44:33,920 --> 00:44:36,520 Explosives? Yeah. 753 00:44:36,520 --> 00:44:39,920 Yeah, they just had a harpoon and a gun, that's it. 754 00:44:39,920 --> 00:44:42,480 What sort of a gun would they have had? 755 00:44:42,480 --> 00:44:45,760 If you go in there, it's in there and I can show you. 756 00:44:49,240 --> 00:44:50,800 Weighs a ton. 757 00:44:50,800 --> 00:44:52,680 Oh! Yeah. 758 00:44:52,680 --> 00:44:56,320 Wow! And then the harpoon will go in here, so it's firing a harpoon? 759 00:44:56,320 --> 00:45:00,560 You always put it in this way. 'If the gun isn't cleaned properly, 760 00:45:00,560 --> 00:45:01,720 'it can explode. 761 00:45:01,720 --> 00:45:06,840 'Five years ago, James's father had an accident 12 miles out at sea.' 762 00:45:06,840 --> 00:45:08,440 He still had it in his hand, 763 00:45:08,440 --> 00:45:11,520 and this part, this whole thing blew up on his hand. 764 00:45:11,520 --> 00:45:14,000 I'm just telling them about your hand, Dad. 765 00:45:14,000 --> 00:45:18,200 What? I was just telling them about your hand, how you lost your hand. 766 00:45:18,200 --> 00:45:21,400 That's how I lose the hand. That was in a whaling accident? 767 00:45:21,400 --> 00:45:23,880 Yeah. My... 768 00:45:23,880 --> 00:45:29,680 When it exploded, this barrel here... 769 00:45:29,680 --> 00:45:31,920 tipped over this way, 770 00:45:31,920 --> 00:45:34,160 and took my whole hand away. 771 00:45:35,480 --> 00:45:37,680 There's a strange quietness in the air, 772 00:45:37,680 --> 00:45:40,360 as the crew wish each other good luck for the hunt. 773 00:45:44,200 --> 00:45:45,640 Good luck. Yeah. 774 00:45:45,640 --> 00:45:48,760 CHUCKLING 775 00:46:04,720 --> 00:46:07,200 There's a real buzz in the whole of this family, 776 00:46:07,200 --> 00:46:10,000 and I know that this is just one of a number of families 777 00:46:10,000 --> 00:46:14,560 that are getting their boats ready today. And pretty soon, we're going to be launching. 778 00:46:29,920 --> 00:46:35,720 All five boats now have left and all I can do is go into 779 00:46:29,920 --> 00:46:35,720 the community, 780 00:46:35,720 --> 00:46:38,800 meet up with some of the people that I've made friends with 781 00:46:38,800 --> 00:46:45,440 and wait with them for the radio to say we've now had a kill. 782 00:46:46,960 --> 00:46:50,600 James's wife, Glenda, is a nurse at the local clinic. 783 00:46:50,600 --> 00:46:53,240 There are strict taboos surrounding the hunt, 784 00:46:53,240 --> 00:46:55,440 like when you're listening to the radio, 785 00:46:55,440 --> 00:46:59,360 you have to keep quiet out of respect for the whale. 786 00:46:59,360 --> 00:47:04,160 We're pretty much taught from when we're little that you can't talk 787 00:46:59,360 --> 00:47:04,160 about it, 788 00:47:04,160 --> 00:47:07,080 otherwise, they won't have good luck out on the water, 789 00:47:07,080 --> 00:47:08,760 that it could cause problems. 790 00:47:08,760 --> 00:47:12,080 And so even when you know that they're talking to each other 791 00:47:12,080 --> 00:47:14,800 and someone's harpooned it, but it's not dead yet, 792 00:47:14,800 --> 00:47:18,600 still, even though, obviously, inside you feel a sense of excitement... 793 00:47:18,600 --> 00:47:22,320 We'll go up to each other and go like this, or something, but you 794 00:47:18,600 --> 00:47:22,320 can't... 795 00:47:22,320 --> 00:47:27,360 You're not supposed to get excited... You're not supposed to guess. Yeah, make guesses. 796 00:47:27,360 --> 00:47:31,080 So we just basically listen and wait for hearing a prayer, 797 00:47:31,080 --> 00:47:34,480 and when we hear a prayer, that's when everybody gets excited. 798 00:47:40,120 --> 00:47:43,960 After eight hours out at sea, the whalers return. 799 00:47:47,120 --> 00:47:49,040 How was it out there? Rough. 800 00:47:49,040 --> 00:47:50,320 Rough? Really rough? 801 00:47:50,320 --> 00:47:52,320 Did you see anything at all? No. 802 00:47:52,320 --> 00:47:55,040 Nothing? Not one? Not even a blow? No. 803 00:48:10,600 --> 00:48:14,960 Next morning, the five whaling boats head out once again. 804 00:48:19,240 --> 00:48:21,840 There they go. The conditions are perfect today 805 00:48:21,840 --> 00:48:24,840 and the whole village waits in anticipation. 806 00:48:37,480 --> 00:48:41,440 A few hours later, the radio crackles into life. 807 00:48:48,880 --> 00:48:52,400 TRANSLATION: 808 00:49:13,720 --> 00:49:17,760 Amen. 809 00:49:13,720 --> 00:49:17,760 CHEERING 810 00:49:28,520 --> 00:49:31,280 CHEERING CONTINUES 811 00:49:33,400 --> 00:49:35,840 Where's the whale? Right there. 812 00:49:39,080 --> 00:49:42,840 My first view of the whale itself. 813 00:49:42,840 --> 00:49:46,840 And the crowd here is ecstatic, you can tell. 814 00:49:46,840 --> 00:49:50,280 They're all really, really enjoying the moment 815 00:49:50,280 --> 00:49:52,960 with the boatsmen as they come in. 816 00:49:54,320 --> 00:49:56,880 And it's...it's emotional for me. 817 00:49:56,880 --> 00:50:01,040 Um... It's emotional. 818 00:50:16,120 --> 00:50:18,640 There's a real sense of community. 819 00:50:18,640 --> 00:50:21,360 It's hard for me to join in that excitement, 820 00:50:21,360 --> 00:50:24,920 but at the same time, I can really feel it all around me. 821 00:50:50,840 --> 00:50:56,600 I can only imagine what, in days gone by, this must have been like, 822 00:50:56,600 --> 00:50:59,280 and that's what I'm feeling today. 823 00:50:59,280 --> 00:51:01,720 I'm feeling that history and heritage. 824 00:51:01,720 --> 00:51:03,800 And in many ways, still now, 825 00:51:03,800 --> 00:51:07,800 even though it's a first-world, modern community, 826 00:51:07,800 --> 00:51:13,360 this represents a huge supply of important meat, protein, 827 00:51:13,360 --> 00:51:15,840 for difficult months ahead. 828 00:51:18,760 --> 00:51:21,440 Although James didn't get his first whale, 829 00:51:21,440 --> 00:51:24,200 all the captains worked together 830 00:51:21,440 --> 00:51:24,200 to tow it in. 831 00:51:24,200 --> 00:51:28,520 James... How are you, my friend? Good, good. How are you? 832 00:51:28,520 --> 00:51:31,120 Yeah, really well, thanks. How was it out there? 833 00:51:31,120 --> 00:51:35,000 It was kind of foggy, but we found an opening and...there you are. 834 00:51:35,000 --> 00:51:38,280 Can you point out to me, where's the harpoon...? 835 00:51:38,280 --> 00:51:40,080 Er, looks like... 836 00:51:40,080 --> 00:51:42,680 Is it...? Is this one? Yep, that's one. 837 00:51:42,680 --> 00:51:44,760 Really? So it's very small. Uh-huh. 838 00:51:44,760 --> 00:51:45,960 OK. 839 00:51:45,960 --> 00:51:48,360 'When it's time to start cutting up the whale, 840 00:51:48,360 --> 00:51:53,080 'we're told to back off, as the captains don't want the images to be shown.' 841 00:51:53,080 --> 00:51:54,880 No pictures. 842 00:51:54,880 --> 00:51:58,240 CAMERAMAN: Can I do it from here? No. Up there. 843 00:51:58,240 --> 00:52:00,880 Turn it off. OK. All right, all right. 844 00:52:03,000 --> 00:52:04,800 There's a lot of people down there. 845 00:52:04,800 --> 00:52:10,080 At the moment, we're not allowed to film, but they've got long knives and they're chopping the whale up. 846 00:52:10,080 --> 00:52:12,880 Huge slabs, they're slicing through, 847 00:52:12,880 --> 00:52:17,560 then hooks pulling that aside as they slice the blubber, 848 00:52:17,560 --> 00:52:19,480 then that's being dragged up here, 849 00:52:19,480 --> 00:52:22,520 then people are chopping it into ever-smaller pieces, 850 00:52:22,520 --> 00:52:25,640 then it finally ends up in the pot where it's being boiled up, 851 00:52:25,640 --> 00:52:31,640 stuck on plates and fed back out to the people who are doing the work. 852 00:52:25,640 --> 00:52:31,640 It's like one big caterpillar track. 853 00:52:35,560 --> 00:52:40,080 It tastes like beef stew. It doesn't taste like beef stew! Try a bite. 854 00:52:41,720 --> 00:52:44,880 Wow... It does taste like beef stew. 855 00:52:44,880 --> 00:52:47,200 Eskimo beef stew, man. Pretty good. 856 00:52:47,200 --> 00:52:49,280 Yep, just missing the vegetables. 857 00:52:49,280 --> 00:52:53,080 The whale provides much more than just food. 858 00:52:53,080 --> 00:52:58,880 It brings the community together and reinforces the Inupiak cultural identity. 859 00:52:58,880 --> 00:53:02,920 Today, it seems the culture is undergoing a revival, 860 00:53:02,920 --> 00:53:06,880 after a long period of being 861 00:53:02,920 --> 00:53:06,880 repressed by successive governments. 862 00:53:06,880 --> 00:53:10,120 Growing up in school, we couldn't speak our language. 863 00:53:10,120 --> 00:53:11,800 If we did, we got punished for it. 864 00:53:11,800 --> 00:53:15,960 Did you experience that yourself? Excuse me? Did you experience that yourself? 865 00:53:15,960 --> 00:53:19,320 Yeah, sure did. In living memory? Tell me about that. 866 00:53:19,320 --> 00:53:22,160 Well, you know, when the missionaries came, 867 00:53:22,160 --> 00:53:26,360 they made schools and, er, we couldn't... 868 00:53:26,360 --> 00:53:31,200 When we came in, we had to learn how to speak their language 869 00:53:31,200 --> 00:53:33,200 and only their language. English. 870 00:53:33,200 --> 00:53:38,000 Yeah. And if we didn't, we got a yardstick slapped on our hand. 871 00:53:40,400 --> 00:53:44,320 The cutting-up continues long into the evening. 872 00:53:44,320 --> 00:53:48,040 One of the last parts to be removed is the tail, 873 00:53:48,040 --> 00:53:52,120 which is traditionally given to the successful captain. 874 00:53:52,120 --> 00:53:56,040 Today, that's George Kaleak. 875 00:53:56,040 --> 00:54:01,000 It's a blessing, from the Almighty above, 876 00:54:01,000 --> 00:54:08,440 and we celebrate life, and we celebrate our culture in that way. 877 00:54:08,440 --> 00:54:12,440 That's what we live for. 878 00:54:12,440 --> 00:54:16,760 It's what we look forward to each and every year, 879 00:54:16,760 --> 00:54:20,480 and it's what we teach our children. 880 00:54:20,480 --> 00:54:24,120 Lots of people around the world have opinions about whaling, George. 881 00:54:24,120 --> 00:54:28,120 What do you think of others coming in here 882 00:54:28,120 --> 00:54:30,720 and having opinions of what you've always done? 883 00:54:30,720 --> 00:54:34,880 Well, they have their opinions and we have ours, you know. 884 00:54:34,880 --> 00:54:36,800 It's subsistence. 885 00:54:36,800 --> 00:54:38,640 We don't commercial hunt. 886 00:54:38,640 --> 00:54:42,520 If they want to try to stop us from whaling, we're going to fight, 887 00:54:42,520 --> 00:54:48,720 to make sure that it's passed on to our younger generation. 888 00:54:56,720 --> 00:54:59,360 It's been about an hour since I was down here, 889 00:54:59,360 --> 00:55:02,280 and last time I was here, there was a huge carcass. 890 00:55:02,280 --> 00:55:05,320 But now, there's almost nothing left. 891 00:55:05,320 --> 00:55:06,760 The jawbone 892 00:55:06,760 --> 00:55:09,520 and a little bit of what looks like vertebrae, 893 00:55:09,520 --> 00:55:12,760 and this is what will get delivered to the bears. 894 00:55:12,760 --> 00:55:19,960 The sun's setting on what's been 895 00:55:12,760 --> 00:55:19,960 the most powerful of days 896 00:55:19,960 --> 00:55:22,200 for the whole community and myself. 897 00:55:22,200 --> 00:55:28,680 It really is such an important part of their history and culture, 898 00:55:28,680 --> 00:55:33,000 but also, it's an important part of their lives today. 899 00:55:33,000 --> 00:55:36,200 They do still rely on this meat. 900 00:55:41,800 --> 00:55:44,320 The next morning, 901 00:55:41,800 --> 00:55:44,320 on a hill near the edge of town, 902 00:55:44,320 --> 00:55:50,120 the meat is shared out equally amongst the five whaling captains. 903 00:55:50,120 --> 00:55:55,280 James's share will be divided amongst his crew and their extended families. 904 00:55:59,840 --> 00:56:05,680 It's this sharing relationship that binds the whole village together. 905 00:56:05,680 --> 00:56:10,280 After so many years of being judged and oppressed, 906 00:56:10,280 --> 00:56:13,600 they're desperate to preserve what remains of their culture. 907 00:56:23,200 --> 00:56:28,000 On my last night in Kaktovik, we head out to the bone pile, 908 00:56:28,000 --> 00:56:30,840 where a small crowd of Inupiak are watching the bears 909 00:56:30,840 --> 00:56:33,240 enjoying their long-awaited feast. 910 00:56:33,240 --> 00:56:36,600 A lot of the families, I've noticed, come down here. 911 00:56:36,600 --> 00:56:38,640 It's like coming to a safari park. 912 00:56:38,640 --> 00:56:41,360 Is it something that you all enjoy in the village? 913 00:56:41,360 --> 00:56:43,480 It's a fun thing to come and watch them. 914 00:56:43,480 --> 00:56:45,800 You never know what you're going to see. 915 00:56:45,800 --> 00:56:50,640 The Inupiak people have a unique relationship with their Arctic neighbours, 916 00:56:50,640 --> 00:56:55,160 and they're happy to share their harvest with them. 917 00:56:55,160 --> 00:56:56,920 Oh, my God! 918 00:56:56,920 --> 00:56:58,480 They're right here. 919 00:56:58,480 --> 00:57:01,640 As the Arctic changes, it seems that much of the world 920 00:57:01,640 --> 00:57:06,640 cares more about polar bears 921 00:57:01,640 --> 00:57:06,640 and whales than this living culture. 922 00:57:06,640 --> 00:57:10,640 I wonder what the future holds for the whalers of Kaktovik. 923 00:57:17,000 --> 00:57:19,600 Finally, it's time for me to leave. 924 00:57:19,600 --> 00:57:21,040 James... 925 00:57:21,040 --> 00:57:24,720 I appreciate everything you did, and your interest in our people. 926 00:57:24,720 --> 00:57:27,840 Did you do this yourself? Right after you guys left my house. 927 00:57:27,840 --> 00:57:29,880 Is that right? Last night? Yeah. Yeah. 928 00:57:29,880 --> 00:57:32,160 James, thank you so much. You're welcome. 929 00:57:32,160 --> 00:57:35,400 That's a real personal touch that means a great deal to me. 930 00:57:35,400 --> 00:57:40,440 Enjoy the rest of your journey. Thanks. Stay well, man. Stay well. 931 00:57:40,440 --> 00:57:42,200 Marie. It was a pleasure. 932 00:57:42,200 --> 00:57:44,000 Thank you so much for coming. 933 00:57:50,040 --> 00:57:52,480 If I think about my own life, 934 00:57:52,480 --> 00:57:57,560 if I think about the fisheries that I saw in the south of Alaska, 935 00:57:57,560 --> 00:58:04,040 if I think about... the burgers and chips I've been eating in the canteen all week, 936 00:58:04,040 --> 00:58:08,680 if I think about most people's relationship with the food that they eat, 937 00:58:08,680 --> 00:58:10,960 there's not much respect. 938 00:58:10,960 --> 00:58:17,520 But here, in this... this land of the north, 939 00:58:17,520 --> 00:58:22,680 where people are carrying out something they've carried out 940 00:58:17,520 --> 00:58:22,680 for so many years, 941 00:58:22,680 --> 00:58:25,800 the rest of the world has a real problem with it... 942 00:58:25,800 --> 00:58:30,200 It's such an emotive subject and people are so quick to judge, 943 00:58:30,200 --> 00:58:31,960 but what I've experienced here 944 00:58:31,960 --> 00:58:36,480 is people with a real relationship with the environment, 945 00:58:36,480 --> 00:58:40,240 with the natural world and with the food that they put in their mouths. 946 00:58:41,760 --> 00:58:44,400 Next time, I'm in Canada... 947 00:58:44,400 --> 00:58:49,360 That's my first sighting of the famous Porcupine caribou herd. 948 00:58:49,360 --> 00:58:52,320 ..and I see what happens to the indigenous people 949 00:58:52,320 --> 00:58:55,360 when the oil industry moves into their territory. 950 00:58:56,480 --> 00:59:00,520 Our white brothers 951 00:58:56,480 --> 00:59:00,520 are going to realise that they can't drink oil or eat money. 952 00:59:11,880 --> 00:59:14,920 Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd. 953 00:59:14,920 --> 00:59:17,960 E-mail subtitling@bbc.co.uk