1 00:00:04,400 --> 00:00:06,360 That's Chicago. 2 00:00:08,640 --> 00:00:12,360 You may say, 'What's he doing here?' and 'What's he doing on a boat?' 3 00:00:12,360 --> 00:00:15,440 I'm actually on a boat to show you Chicago. 4 00:00:15,440 --> 00:00:19,640 The reason I'm here isn't really Chicago. It's only part of it. 5 00:00:19,640 --> 00:00:22,480 I'm here for Route 66, 6 00:00:22,480 --> 00:00:25,640 the most famous road in the world. 7 00:00:31,280 --> 00:00:35,360 How many other roads do you know that people sing about? 8 00:00:35,360 --> 00:00:39,720 It's just one of those magical places that you always long to see. 9 00:00:41,080 --> 00:00:43,040 Ever since I was a wee boy in Glasgow 10 00:00:43,040 --> 00:00:46,600 I've fantasised about getting my kicks on Route 66. 11 00:00:49,800 --> 00:00:53,520 To me, it was a magic trail, heading west through the heart of America, 12 00:00:53,520 --> 00:00:58,360 into the land of broken dreams and Hollywood endings. 13 00:00:58,360 --> 00:01:00,440 # SPENCER DAVIS GROUP: Gimme Some Lovin' 14 00:01:01,600 --> 00:01:04,520 The highway that built a continent, defined a nation, 15 00:01:04,520 --> 00:01:06,440 running from Chicago to L.A. 16 00:01:07,840 --> 00:01:10,000 Route 66 is a story of America, 17 00:01:10,000 --> 00:01:13,240 written by the people, for the people, 18 00:01:13,240 --> 00:01:15,800 over eight states and 2,500 miles. 19 00:01:15,800 --> 00:01:18,040 I love that. 20 00:01:18,040 --> 00:01:20,680 It's a tale in tarmac of presidents and paupers, 21 00:01:20,680 --> 00:01:24,480 cowboys and Indians, diners and drive-throughs. 22 00:01:24,480 --> 00:01:27,760 It's framed in a landscape from 100 movies 23 00:01:27,760 --> 00:01:32,480 with a soundtrack OF the greatest music in the world, rock and roll. 24 00:01:33,880 --> 00:01:35,720 Sounds good, doesn't it? 25 00:01:35,720 --> 00:01:38,600 Oh, my gosh. Whoa... 26 00:01:41,280 --> 00:01:44,240 We're gonna have lots of fun, meet lots of people, 27 00:01:44,240 --> 00:01:46,320 see lots of nice things. 28 00:01:47,840 --> 00:01:49,760 Come with me. 29 00:01:50,960 --> 00:01:52,880 Come on. I dare you. 30 00:01:55,400 --> 00:01:57,480 If you come with me, I'll do dirty things. 31 00:02:02,120 --> 00:02:05,480 # Well, it goes from St Louis Down to Missouri 32 00:02:05,480 --> 00:02:08,440 # Oklahoma city looks oh so pretty 33 00:02:08,440 --> 00:02:10,960 # You'll see Amarillo 34 00:02:10,960 --> 00:02:14,120 # And Gallup, New Mexico 35 00:02:14,120 --> 00:02:16,000 # Flagstaff, Arizona 36 00:02:16,000 --> 00:02:19,880 # Don't forget Winona Kingstam, Barstaw, San Bernadino 37 00:02:19,880 --> 00:02:24,680 # Would you get your kicks on Route 66? # 38 00:02:30,360 --> 00:02:33,840 The first leg of my trip is through the great state of Illinois, 39 00:02:33,840 --> 00:02:36,640 home to Abraham Lincoln, real soul music, 40 00:02:36,640 --> 00:02:39,840 secret Amish communities, and devastating tornados. 41 00:02:39,840 --> 00:02:43,560 It all starts here, in one of my favourite cities in the world. 42 00:02:43,560 --> 00:02:45,440 # MUDDY WATERS: Mannish Boy 43 00:02:56,880 --> 00:02:59,760 This is Chicago, the windy city. 44 00:02:59,760 --> 00:03:01,840 Soaring above Lake Michigan, 45 00:03:01,840 --> 00:03:04,120 these grand canyons of concrete and steel 46 00:03:04,120 --> 00:03:06,720 make for a hard and handsome place. 47 00:03:06,720 --> 00:03:08,720 It's the city that gave us Al Capone, 48 00:03:08,720 --> 00:03:11,400 President Obama, and, of course... 49 00:03:11,400 --> 00:03:13,280 the blues. 50 00:03:17,360 --> 00:03:19,520 Once a wild frontier town, 51 00:03:19,520 --> 00:03:22,160 it grew rich and taller when it became the engine 52 00:03:22,160 --> 00:03:24,680 of America's expansion into the west. 53 00:03:24,680 --> 00:03:27,480 There could be no more fitting start 54 00:03:27,480 --> 00:03:29,760 to a road they call The Main Street of America. 55 00:03:29,760 --> 00:03:31,720 (CHEERS) 56 00:03:36,160 --> 00:03:38,840 Chicago's a rather beautiful place. 57 00:03:40,040 --> 00:03:43,800 It's funny... When you mention Chicago, people never say beautiful. 58 00:03:43,800 --> 00:03:46,920 Once you've been here, and you've seen the architecture, 59 00:03:46,920 --> 00:03:52,160 it really is a mind-bender. 60 00:03:52,160 --> 00:03:55,920 There was a huge fire in 1871. The place was made of wood before that. 61 00:03:55,920 --> 00:03:59,720 It was all wooden buildings, and in 1871, the whole thing burned down. 62 00:03:59,720 --> 00:04:02,520 The entire place. 63 00:04:02,520 --> 00:04:06,080 All that was left was a water tower. I'll show you it later. 64 00:04:06,080 --> 00:04:09,120 We'll go down here and I'll show you it. It's still there. 65 00:04:09,120 --> 00:04:11,320 (HORN) 66 00:04:11,320 --> 00:04:13,320 How are you? (LAUGHS) 67 00:04:13,320 --> 00:04:15,240 It's all right. I go to anywhere. 68 00:04:22,160 --> 00:04:24,200 (LAUGHS) The taxi driver likes my bike. 69 00:04:30,760 --> 00:04:32,800 I think this is the water tower here. 70 00:04:32,800 --> 00:04:36,080 It looks like a wee white church with a tower, 71 00:04:36,080 --> 00:04:40,800 but this was all that was left after the great fire. 72 00:04:40,800 --> 00:04:43,040 Now you can hardly see it. It's so swamped. 73 00:04:43,040 --> 00:04:46,600 And that's why Chicago is such a nice looking town, 74 00:04:46,600 --> 00:04:49,280 because they started again in 1871. 75 00:04:55,000 --> 00:04:57,960 Chicago's attitude to architecture is breathtaking. 76 00:04:57,960 --> 00:05:00,040 Even in this economic climate, 77 00:05:00,040 --> 00:05:02,440 they've recently built 40 new skyscrapers. 78 00:05:05,680 --> 00:05:09,400 and sometimes... Well, stick around and see what you think. 79 00:05:12,320 --> 00:05:15,680 We're coming up to the Chicago Tribune building. If you look... 80 00:05:16,840 --> 00:05:18,920 See these vertical stripes? 81 00:05:18,920 --> 00:05:20,840 That was supposed to give it height. 82 00:05:24,840 --> 00:05:28,120 Look at it. It's like... It's like King Arthur's castle. 83 00:05:28,120 --> 00:05:30,920 Now, the owner of this building, in the old days... 84 00:05:30,920 --> 00:05:32,840 His name was Colonel McCormick. 85 00:05:33,880 --> 00:05:38,120 He'd been to Ypres, where the battle was in The First World War. 86 00:05:38,120 --> 00:05:42,960 That one that the old British guys used to call wipers. Y-P-R-E-S. 87 00:05:44,320 --> 00:05:46,400 He found a bit of stone, 88 00:05:46,400 --> 00:05:49,800 that had been blown off the cathedral by the Germans in the war, 89 00:05:49,800 --> 00:05:51,720 and he kept it as a souvenir. 90 00:05:53,120 --> 00:05:56,520 Then he got the idea to collect more bits of famous buildings, 91 00:05:56,520 --> 00:05:59,400 and he instructed his staff, wherever they were... 92 00:05:59,400 --> 00:06:04,880 by well-mannered means, to collect pieces of famous buildings. 93 00:06:06,840 --> 00:06:10,200 There's one of my favourite things... I'll show you along here. 94 00:06:11,400 --> 00:06:13,600 Now, what they do with the stones is this. 95 00:06:13,600 --> 00:06:15,840 There's a... Look, Edinburgh Castle. 96 00:06:15,840 --> 00:06:17,920 This is a wee bit of Edinburgh Castle. 97 00:06:17,920 --> 00:06:20,720 How they managed to get a big chunk like that 98 00:06:20,720 --> 00:06:24,400 with well-mannered means from Edinburgh Castle, I don't know. 99 00:06:26,000 --> 00:06:29,400 Notre-Dame...Fort Santiago... 100 00:06:29,400 --> 00:06:32,080 See, they're all different ones. 101 00:06:32,080 --> 00:06:34,080 Ah, there it is! My favourite. 102 00:06:34,080 --> 00:06:38,440 Injun Joe's cave. Mark Twain. 103 00:06:38,440 --> 00:06:40,480 My ultimate hero. 104 00:06:40,480 --> 00:06:42,960 All of these stones... 105 00:06:42,960 --> 00:06:45,800 How did they get them by well-mannered means? 106 00:06:48,440 --> 00:06:50,680 See, this used to be my favourite corner. 107 00:06:50,680 --> 00:06:53,640 Come here and I'll show you where that bugger spoiled it. 108 00:06:55,840 --> 00:06:57,760 I used to come to here. 109 00:06:59,360 --> 00:07:02,920 You see that nice white building... 110 00:07:02,920 --> 00:07:04,800 and you go right around, like that... 111 00:07:06,560 --> 00:07:09,320 And then Trump stuck that THING in the middle. 112 00:07:10,520 --> 00:07:14,120 Trump pulled down the Chicago Sun building, 113 00:07:14,120 --> 00:07:16,520 and built that piece of shit. 114 00:07:16,520 --> 00:07:19,640 Bum. He wants to be the president! 115 00:07:19,640 --> 00:07:22,480 The place would be a toilet if he became the president. 116 00:07:29,960 --> 00:07:34,520 Chicago's probably more famous for one thing than any other. Gangsters. 117 00:07:34,520 --> 00:07:37,280 # FUN LOVING CRIMINALS: The Fun Lovin' Criminal 118 00:07:37,280 --> 00:07:40,320 During the rolling '20s, newspapers all over the world 119 00:07:40,320 --> 00:07:43,800 were full of tales of wild gunfights and even wilder parties, 120 00:07:43,800 --> 00:07:46,560 all fuelled by illegal moonshine. 121 00:07:46,560 --> 00:07:49,560 Just across from the whiskey-laden Canada, 122 00:07:49,560 --> 00:07:53,000 and at the heart of the nation's rail and road networks, 123 00:07:53,000 --> 00:07:55,000 Chicago was perfectly located 124 00:07:55,000 --> 00:07:57,800 to become the crucible of organised crime in America. 125 00:07:58,040 --> 00:08:02,080 And it was all presided over by one man, Al Capone, 126 00:08:02,080 --> 00:08:05,560 who ran his empire from the top 127 00:08:11,600 --> 00:08:14,080 You have to go to a speakeasy if you're in Chicago. 128 00:08:14,080 --> 00:08:16,120 I know this isn't what you expected. 129 00:08:16,120 --> 00:08:18,200 Big, flashy... This is a restaurant now, 130 00:08:18,200 --> 00:08:20,920 but speakeasies were like this. They were restaurants. 131 00:08:20,920 --> 00:08:23,080 Fancy places at the front. 132 00:08:23,080 --> 00:08:25,560 It wasn't always that wee door that you knock 133 00:08:25,560 --> 00:08:28,440 and the wee square window, 'Who are you? Who sent you?' 134 00:08:28,440 --> 00:08:30,280 They had fronts like this. 135 00:08:30,280 --> 00:08:32,960 This one's actually being done up at the moment, 136 00:08:32,960 --> 00:08:36,440 but it's pretty much the same shape as it used to be in the '20s. 137 00:08:36,440 --> 00:08:41,280 In the 1920's, America made a criminal mistake. 138 00:08:42,280 --> 00:08:45,720 They answered to the Christian Temperance society 139 00:08:45,720 --> 00:08:49,320 and shut down boozers everywhere. Every pub was shut. 140 00:08:49,320 --> 00:08:54,440 It was illegal to make, sell, or transport alcohol. 141 00:08:54,440 --> 00:09:00,560 As a result, you know, everybody needs a wee drinky-poo... 142 00:09:00,560 --> 00:09:02,520 # COLE PORTER: Let's Misbehave 143 00:09:10,480 --> 00:09:12,640 This would be like this, of course... 144 00:09:14,040 --> 00:09:16,120 ..and you get in. 145 00:09:16,120 --> 00:09:19,560 You're out of the restaurant now, and you're into the boozer. 146 00:09:19,560 --> 00:09:23,040 As you move further on, it becomes more and more secretive... 147 00:09:25,240 --> 00:09:27,240 ..and much more interesting. 148 00:09:27,240 --> 00:09:29,440 If the cops came... 149 00:09:33,640 --> 00:09:35,560 ..you're gone. 150 00:09:41,240 --> 00:09:44,720 And, do you know, in the middle of all that prohibition, 151 00:09:44,720 --> 00:09:48,400 Al Capone... How people believed him I'll never know. 152 00:09:48,400 --> 00:09:51,800 This was a guy in his 20s with a big scar on his face. 153 00:09:51,800 --> 00:09:56,680 He convinced the authorities to sell non-alcoholic beer. 154 00:09:56,680 --> 00:09:58,600 He made gallons and gallons, 155 00:09:58,600 --> 00:10:04,520 barrels of non-alcoholic beer, had them delivered to here. 156 00:10:04,520 --> 00:10:06,680 As soon as the police had inspected it, 157 00:10:06,680 --> 00:10:10,920 his mates would show up with big veterinary syringes, 158 00:10:10,920 --> 00:10:13,360 that you usually shove up elephant's bums, 159 00:10:13,360 --> 00:10:17,120 and they were full of ethanol, pure alcohol. 160 00:10:18,680 --> 00:10:21,280 Into the barrel, and off we go again. 161 00:10:21,280 --> 00:10:26,840 # Happy days are here again...# 162 00:10:26,840 --> 00:10:32,520 But do you know the funniest thing? 163 00:10:32,520 --> 00:10:35,160 has got nothing to do with booze. 164 00:10:35,160 --> 00:10:38,400 It's the sell-by-date on a bottle of milk. 165 00:10:39,440 --> 00:10:41,600 It was during The Depression. 166 00:10:41,600 --> 00:10:44,440 The schools were bankrupt, the public schools. 167 00:10:44,440 --> 00:10:48,720 He donated $1m for milk for the school children, 168 00:10:48,720 --> 00:10:52,960 but insisted that the date was put on the bottle, 169 00:10:52,960 --> 00:10:57,480 because he hated the sour milk he was given to drink as a child. 170 00:10:57,480 --> 00:10:59,600 And that exists to this day. 171 00:10:59,600 --> 00:11:01,520 Isn't that the strangest thing? 172 00:11:06,440 --> 00:11:10,000 There are plenty of bigger cities than Chicago in the world, 173 00:11:10,000 --> 00:11:13,880 but there are few taller. This is the skyscraper capital of the world. 174 00:11:13,880 --> 00:11:17,080 Brace yourselves. It doesn't get much higher than this. 175 00:11:17,080 --> 00:11:21,280 Standing at 1,450 feet, this is The Willis Tower. 176 00:11:21,280 --> 00:11:25,000 You might know it as Sears Tower, the tallest building in America. 177 00:11:25,000 --> 00:11:26,880 COMPUTER: Welcome to the top. 178 00:11:26,880 --> 00:11:30,600 This has got the most spectacular views... 179 00:11:33,760 --> 00:11:37,560 Now, I'm gonna show you something. I'm gonna be a real daredevil here. 180 00:11:38,920 --> 00:11:41,000 This is a real heart-shaker. 181 00:11:41,000 --> 00:11:42,920 See this wee cubicle here? 182 00:11:45,360 --> 00:11:47,280 The floor is made of glass. 183 00:11:48,400 --> 00:11:50,320 So, from 110 storeys up... 184 00:12:06,000 --> 00:12:09,440 This is the creepiest feeling you'll ever witness. 185 00:12:10,840 --> 00:12:12,760 It's straight down. 186 00:12:14,240 --> 00:12:16,560 110 storeys to the street. 187 00:12:19,280 --> 00:12:23,400 says, 'Don't, don't. Get off.' 188 00:12:24,720 --> 00:12:27,880 But I've always liked heights, ever since I was a wee boy. 189 00:12:27,880 --> 00:12:30,720 Now... 190 00:12:30,720 --> 00:12:33,640 where those yellow taxis are on that street there... 191 00:12:33,640 --> 00:12:35,560 that's Route 66. 192 00:12:37,560 --> 00:12:41,040 # If you have the chance to motor west 193 00:12:41,040 --> 00:12:43,080 # Take the highway 194 00:12:43,080 --> 00:12:45,720 # That's my way we love best 195 00:12:45,720 --> 00:12:50,520 # Get your kicks on Route 66...# 196 00:12:50,520 --> 00:12:52,520 Listen... Do you hear that? 197 00:12:52,520 --> 00:12:55,160 (TRAIN HORN) It's a train. 198 00:12:58,720 --> 00:13:01,320 The loneliest noise in the world. 199 00:13:01,320 --> 00:13:03,240 (TRAIN HORN) 200 00:13:06,120 --> 00:13:09,560 Seldom in your life will you see Route 66 from this angle. 201 00:13:11,640 --> 00:13:13,560 That's Route 66. 202 00:13:15,520 --> 00:13:18,600 And that's the way we'll be heading, out west. 203 00:13:20,640 --> 00:13:22,560 California, here I come. 204 00:13:24,240 --> 00:13:26,200 # THE WHO: I Can See For Miles 205 00:13:42,880 --> 00:13:44,960 # Money, who needs it? 206 00:13:44,960 --> 00:13:48,560 # Just to live my life free and easy 207 00:13:48,560 --> 00:13:52,320 # Put the toothbrush in my hand 208 00:13:52,320 --> 00:13:54,320 # And let me be a travelling man... 209 00:13:54,320 --> 00:13:57,120 How are you doing there? 210 00:13:57,120 --> 00:13:59,880 # Cos I'm a roadrunner, baby... 211 00:13:59,880 --> 00:14:03,040 The thing that makes Route 66 unique 212 00:14:03,040 --> 00:14:06,560 is it's a road with its own soundtrack. 213 00:14:06,560 --> 00:14:09,920 Some call it the blues, others call it soul. 214 00:14:09,920 --> 00:14:12,840 Me? I call it rock and roll. 215 00:14:12,840 --> 00:14:16,120 # I'm a roadrunner, baby 216 00:14:16,120 --> 00:14:18,520 # Can't stay in one place too long... 217 00:14:20,560 --> 00:14:24,040 That's why I can't leave Chicago before going to Bronzeville. 218 00:14:24,040 --> 00:14:26,200 # Mess with me and I'll be gone 219 00:14:26,200 --> 00:14:29,280 # Cos I'm a roadrunner, baby...# 220 00:14:29,280 --> 00:14:33,400 Between the end of The First World War and the 1930's 221 00:14:33,400 --> 00:14:37,160 tens of thousands of black men and women flocked to this Chicago suburb 222 00:14:37,160 --> 00:14:38,920 to escape the racism of the south. 223 00:14:41,320 --> 00:14:43,440 These are the very streets 224 00:14:43,440 --> 00:14:46,640 that Muddy Waters and Howlin' Wolf turned the blues electric 225 00:14:46,640 --> 00:14:49,920 and gave birth to rock and roll. 226 00:14:49,920 --> 00:14:51,960 # HOWLIN' WOLF: Killing Floor 227 00:14:51,960 --> 00:14:54,000 # I should've quit you 228 00:14:54,000 --> 00:14:56,680 # A long time ago...# 229 00:14:58,640 --> 00:15:01,920 But that's not the only music that was born in Bronzeville. 230 00:15:05,520 --> 00:15:08,920 You may find this difficult to believe, but I'm going to church. 231 00:15:10,080 --> 00:15:13,760 It's a new experience for me, for many many years. 232 00:15:13,760 --> 00:15:17,280 This is the Quinn Chapel, which is a very famous place. 233 00:15:17,280 --> 00:15:19,920 It's the oldest black congregation in America. 234 00:15:19,920 --> 00:15:22,240 It's been here since the 1850s. 235 00:15:22,240 --> 00:15:26,520 The congregation used to be mostly freed slaves and abolitionists. 236 00:15:26,520 --> 00:15:30,320 I didn't realise that at its height 237 00:15:30,320 --> 00:15:33,320 the slavery industry, if you like to call it, 238 00:15:33,320 --> 00:15:36,600 had four million people. Men, women and children. 239 00:15:36,600 --> 00:15:41,720 This is the time. The story is that he rose with all power. 240 00:15:41,720 --> 00:15:44,880 But the most important thing about this place 241 00:15:44,880 --> 00:15:48,080 is this is where gospel music really began in America. 242 00:15:48,080 --> 00:15:52,200 # Oh, we call him Jesus 243 00:15:52,200 --> 00:15:54,640 # Oh, Jesus 244 00:15:54,640 --> 00:15:57,000 # Jesus 245 00:15:57,000 --> 00:15:59,400 # Oh, Jesus 246 00:15:59,400 --> 00:16:01,480 # Power in the name of... 247 00:16:01,480 --> 00:16:04,120 Before its abolition 150 years ago 248 00:16:04,120 --> 00:16:06,720 escaped slaves would flee to this very chapel, 249 00:16:06,720 --> 00:16:09,680 in the hope of finding a new and better life. 250 00:16:09,680 --> 00:16:11,640 # Power in the name of... 251 00:16:12,080 --> 00:16:17,240 What I find amazing, though, 252 00:16:17,240 --> 00:16:21,320 people in this room were still refused the right to vote. 253 00:16:21,320 --> 00:16:23,240 # Power in the name of 254 00:16:23,240 --> 00:16:25,080 # He's a brave Lord 255 00:16:25,080 --> 00:16:27,600 # Glory in the name of... 256 00:16:27,600 --> 00:16:31,440 There is a palpable joy of community in this chapel, 257 00:16:31,440 --> 00:16:33,920 of racism 258 00:16:33,920 --> 00:16:37,760 that artist Preston Jackson tackles in his work about Bronzeville. 259 00:16:37,760 --> 00:16:40,440 Beautiful accent. 260 00:16:40,440 --> 00:16:43,640 I don't know why it is that I'm so turned on by that. 261 00:16:43,640 --> 00:16:45,800 It's like... It's music to me. 262 00:16:45,800 --> 00:16:48,440 Oh, thanks very much. It's the only one I've got. 263 00:16:48,440 --> 00:16:51,320 I'll change it as soon as I find a better one. OK. 264 00:16:51,320 --> 00:16:54,280 Can I have a look at your work, please? Sure. 265 00:16:54,280 --> 00:16:56,360 These are all bronze-cast, 266 00:16:56,360 --> 00:17:00,160 and they're not hollow, so, you know, it gives a lot of - Oh, yeah. 267 00:17:00,160 --> 00:17:02,520 I love this. I don't know what it is about this guy. 268 00:17:02,520 --> 00:17:04,680 He's so alive. Yeah. 269 00:17:04,680 --> 00:17:06,600 I think it's his tie that's doing it. 270 00:17:06,600 --> 00:17:09,120 Yeah, the wind blowing. He's cool. 271 00:17:09,120 --> 00:17:11,800 She's saying, 'Please, don't talk to me. I'm busy. 272 00:17:11,800 --> 00:17:13,680 I got to make some money here,' you know? 273 00:17:18,480 --> 00:17:20,400 And your trifling ass, you know? 274 00:17:24,360 --> 00:17:27,000 I love these dense cast-bronze pieces. 275 00:17:27,000 --> 00:17:30,240 There's a real sense of pride in what they're portraying, 276 00:17:30,240 --> 00:17:32,560 but not everyone feels the same way I do. 277 00:17:32,560 --> 00:17:37,120 Some of the work may rub people the wrong way, or uh... 278 00:17:37,120 --> 00:17:40,760 Good. It's never been politically incorrect, you know? 279 00:17:40,760 --> 00:17:45,280 But rubbing people the wrong way is a good thing, I think. I do, too. 280 00:17:45,280 --> 00:17:48,560 You know, in America, we definitely still have problems. 281 00:17:48,560 --> 00:17:50,720 You know, that we have to address. 282 00:17:50,720 --> 00:17:52,760 Even the president today... 283 00:17:52,760 --> 00:17:58,360 He really underestimated the effects of racism, 284 00:17:58,360 --> 00:18:00,400 how deep that runs. Yeah. 285 00:18:00,400 --> 00:18:03,040 I underestimated it, too. 286 00:18:03,040 --> 00:18:05,800 # ETTA JAMES: Inner City Blues (Make Me Wanna Holler) 287 00:18:10,400 --> 00:18:12,560 As a child in the '50s, 288 00:18:12,560 --> 00:18:16,400 Preston remembers taking family vacations to the south. 289 00:18:16,400 --> 00:18:19,080 To get there, they had to use a travel guidebook 290 00:18:19,080 --> 00:18:21,000 unlike any other you've ever heard of. 291 00:18:22,320 --> 00:18:27,160 What's The Green Book? If you were going to travel - anywhere - 292 00:18:27,160 --> 00:18:30,880 out of your neighbourhood, you've got to study that Green Book. 293 00:18:30,880 --> 00:18:34,400 That Green Book told you where you can sleep, where you can eat, 294 00:18:34,400 --> 00:18:39,000 where you can... The black doctors that are in a particular town. 295 00:18:39,000 --> 00:18:41,840 What not to do, where not to go... 296 00:18:41,840 --> 00:18:44,920 just for your appearance, 297 00:18:44,920 --> 00:18:48,000 after sun go down, not to be there. 298 00:18:53,440 --> 00:18:55,600 Many times it saved your life, you know? 299 00:18:55,600 --> 00:18:57,680 If a town was like Anna, Illinois. 300 00:18:57,680 --> 00:19:00,360 Anna, Illinois... It's spelt A-N-N-A. 301 00:19:00,360 --> 00:19:05,200 Ain't...No...Niggers...Around. 302 00:19:05,200 --> 00:19:07,400 What?! That was the name of the city. 303 00:19:07,400 --> 00:19:10,440 It was very horrible. That takes my breath away. 304 00:19:19,400 --> 00:19:23,240 couldn't live in the hotel that he was playing. Oh, no, no, no. 305 00:19:23,240 --> 00:19:25,960 I met Natalie Cole, 306 00:19:25,960 --> 00:19:28,160 and I said, 'I was reading about your dad, 307 00:19:28,160 --> 00:19:30,280 that he couldn't live in the hotel.' 308 00:19:30,280 --> 00:19:32,760 She said, 'He couldn't go in the front door.' 309 00:19:32,760 --> 00:19:35,040 He had to go in the kitchen! That's right. 310 00:19:35,040 --> 00:19:38,320 Then he got his own TV - Nat King Cole, for God's sake! 311 00:19:38,320 --> 00:19:42,160 I mean, rock and roll came from right down the street. 312 00:19:42,160 --> 00:19:44,880 All of this stuff happened. Rock and roll is black. 313 00:19:44,880 --> 00:19:47,720 Yeah. Elvis and Pat Boone had very little to do with it. 314 00:19:49,840 --> 00:19:53,040 # Bop bopa-a-lu a whop bam bo # 315 00:19:53,040 --> 00:19:54,960 AS PAT BOONE: # Tutti frutti, oh Rudy # 316 00:19:58,320 --> 00:20:00,400 That's what I said. That's so funny! 317 00:20:00,400 --> 00:20:04,520 I said on film, have you ever heard Pat Boone doing Tutti Frutti? 318 00:20:04,520 --> 00:20:07,800 And he obviously doesn't know what it means. I know it, man. 319 00:20:07,800 --> 00:20:10,160 Cos he's got his bible in one hand going... 320 00:20:10,160 --> 00:20:12,000 AS PAT BOONE: # Tutti frutti, oh Rudy 321 00:20:15,240 --> 00:20:17,960 That was so damn funny, you know? 322 00:20:17,960 --> 00:20:20,120 It was so brilliant. 323 00:20:20,120 --> 00:20:22,520 Oh, yeah, and then The Twist came, you know? 324 00:20:22,520 --> 00:20:24,200 Then he was like... He was like this. 325 00:20:36,200 --> 00:20:39,240 That's Chicago. 326 00:20:39,240 --> 00:20:41,160 It ain't London, it ain't Paris, 327 00:20:41,160 --> 00:20:44,840 but it is all-American, alive from snout to tail, 328 00:20:44,840 --> 00:20:47,360 and I love that. 329 00:20:47,360 --> 00:20:50,760 But now, well, it's time for me to saddle up and hit the road. 330 00:20:51,840 --> 00:20:54,400 I've got my helmet with my little microphone, 331 00:20:54,400 --> 00:20:58,920 got my jacket, got my chaps with a nice cold crotch for the hot work. 332 00:20:58,920 --> 00:21:02,480 I'm just about to go on Route 66, a life's ambition of mine. 333 00:21:02,480 --> 00:21:04,600 Come along with me. You'll have a laugh. 334 00:21:04,600 --> 00:21:06,760 We'll see things we'll never forget. 335 00:21:06,760 --> 00:21:10,320 We'll see things we'll never want to remember, I would imagine. 336 00:21:10,320 --> 00:21:13,880 I've no idea what we're going to see, but we're going to Pontiac. 337 00:21:13,880 --> 00:21:16,880 I don't know where it is, but we'll be there. See you there. 338 00:21:24,440 --> 00:21:27,560 Route 66 begins. (LAUGHS) 339 00:21:27,560 --> 00:21:29,480 # On The Road Again 340 00:21:35,960 --> 00:21:38,040 There are no two ways about it, 341 00:21:38,040 --> 00:21:41,520 if you want to feel like you're in a movie, hit the open road. 342 00:21:41,520 --> 00:21:43,800 because as soon as that horizon opens up, 343 00:21:43,800 --> 00:21:46,160 you're in your own vista-vision heaven. 344 00:21:46,160 --> 00:21:51,000 At long last, you too can feel like Peter Fonda in Easy Rider. 345 00:21:53,920 --> 00:21:56,000 But don't expect an easy time of it. 346 00:21:56,000 --> 00:21:59,280 I'm heading into tornado country. The forecast is bad. 347 00:21:59,280 --> 00:22:01,440 I've got a feeling my ventilated chaps 348 00:22:01,440 --> 00:22:04,080 might prove to be no match for that kind of weather. 349 00:22:06,320 --> 00:22:11,160 Now, if you've never seen a giant, you're about to see one now. 350 00:22:11,160 --> 00:22:13,680 He lives just up the road here. 351 00:22:13,680 --> 00:22:16,320 It's the silliest story you ever heard. 352 00:22:21,880 --> 00:22:23,720 I'd like you to meet Gemini Giant. 353 00:22:25,000 --> 00:22:28,040 He came here in 1965. 354 00:22:28,040 --> 00:22:31,360 The guy who owned this place, the Launching Pad... 355 00:22:31,360 --> 00:22:35,520 I don't know if the place is called the Launching Pad because of Gemini, 356 00:22:35,520 --> 00:22:40,000 or if Gemini is called Gemini because of the Launching Pad. 357 00:22:40,000 --> 00:22:43,440 There was a restaurant convention, 358 00:22:43,440 --> 00:22:46,440 and the guy went to the convention and found this. 359 00:22:48,200 --> 00:22:52,560 He's 28 feet high and he bought him for $3,000. (LAUGHS) 360 00:22:59,960 --> 00:23:02,000 'Darling, I've got you a present.' 361 00:23:02,000 --> 00:23:04,160 Look at the size of him. 362 00:23:07,720 --> 00:23:11,800 I absolutely love him, and I wish there was many more of them. 363 00:23:11,800 --> 00:23:16,680 Originally, the idea of these big guys... 364 00:23:16,680 --> 00:23:18,840 on Route 66... 365 00:23:18,840 --> 00:23:23,440 was to attract people off the interstate highway. 366 00:23:23,440 --> 00:23:26,200 But you can't see the interstate highway from here. 367 00:23:26,200 --> 00:23:28,920 I don't know how many people it attracts, but... 368 00:23:28,920 --> 00:23:32,120 it certainly wouldn't attract me to eat. 369 00:23:36,000 --> 00:23:37,920 But that's Gemini the Giant. 370 00:23:43,400 --> 00:23:45,400 # Sitting in La La, waiting for my ya ya # 371 00:24:01,720 --> 00:24:05,120 You see that railway line I just crossed over there? 372 00:24:05,120 --> 00:24:07,760 I hope it's the same one that crosses Godley. 373 00:24:07,760 --> 00:24:10,560 That's the next little town we come to. 374 00:24:10,560 --> 00:24:14,040 In the old mining days, in the 1930s, 375 00:24:14,040 --> 00:24:17,480 there was a brothel here, but the lovely thing is... 376 00:24:17,480 --> 00:24:22,360 Godley is in two counties, one on each side of the street, 377 00:24:22,360 --> 00:24:25,680 and there's a railway line that used to cross over. 378 00:24:25,680 --> 00:24:29,920 They built the brothel on the railway line, 379 00:24:29,920 --> 00:24:33,760 and it was a house on railway wheels, 380 00:24:33,760 --> 00:24:37,920 where all the brothelling would carry on, on a Friday and Saturday night. 381 00:24:37,920 --> 00:24:43,040 When they heard the news that the police were going to conduct a raid, 382 00:24:43,040 --> 00:24:46,560 everybody would leap out of bed in a state of undress 383 00:24:46,560 --> 00:24:48,480 and push the house... (LAUGHS) 384 00:24:50,560 --> 00:24:54,600 ..from one county... (LAUGHS) ..into the other. 385 00:24:54,600 --> 00:24:58,320 These bare-arse people pushing a house across the str... 386 00:24:58,320 --> 00:25:00,200 Across the street (LAUGHS) 387 00:25:03,360 --> 00:25:05,800 I can't imagine what it must have been like 388 00:25:05,800 --> 00:25:08,640 with the hookers and the bare-arse patrons. 389 00:25:08,640 --> 00:25:10,560 I love that. 390 00:25:18,000 --> 00:25:21,760 96 miles down and I've already seen a giant and a brothel. 391 00:25:21,760 --> 00:25:25,240 Not a bad start. Pontiac, here I come. 392 00:25:28,160 --> 00:25:31,120 From roadside monuments to Rock and Roll gems, 393 00:25:31,120 --> 00:25:33,760 all the way through to books like The Grapes Of Wrath, 394 00:25:33,760 --> 00:25:38,440 Route 66 has inspired countless wastrels throughout its history 395 00:25:38,440 --> 00:25:41,800 to create great fun and silly art in equal measure. 396 00:25:41,800 --> 00:25:46,440 How many other roads can you think of have their own resident artist? 397 00:25:46,440 --> 00:25:50,720 That's who Bob Waldmire was. He was like the prototype hippy, 398 00:25:50,720 --> 00:25:55,480 who would spend the year travelling the route, chasing the sun, 399 00:25:55,480 --> 00:25:58,600 all the while sketching these highly detailed posters. 400 00:25:58,600 --> 00:26:00,680 Bob died of cancer recently, 401 00:26:00,680 --> 00:26:04,320 but to my absolute joy, I found that his spirit lives on. 402 00:26:04,320 --> 00:26:06,920 This is how he travelled. 403 00:26:10,400 --> 00:26:12,480 He built it. It was an old school bus. 404 00:26:12,480 --> 00:26:15,880 He put solar panels on the top and fitted an oven. 405 00:26:15,880 --> 00:26:18,000 He's got a shower and everything. 406 00:26:18,000 --> 00:26:21,440 It's a bit of a squeeze to get you in, but come have a look. 407 00:26:24,520 --> 00:26:27,280 It's just the cosiest place. 408 00:26:29,840 --> 00:26:32,320 All of his wee favourite things are still here. 409 00:26:36,800 --> 00:26:44,200 I don't know what would've happened in an emergency stop in this bus. 410 00:26:47,160 --> 00:26:50,040 Isn't it amazing, and a great way for an artist to live? 411 00:26:51,560 --> 00:26:53,640 Rise Up (Easy Rider) 412 00:26:55,600 --> 00:26:57,640 Some say that God is in the detail. 413 00:26:57,640 --> 00:27:00,000 Well, I don't know about that, 414 00:27:00,000 --> 00:27:03,360 but I can absolutely see what kind of man Bob was. 415 00:27:03,360 --> 00:27:07,560 It's a shame. I would have really liked to have met him. 416 00:27:10,880 --> 00:27:15,400 Well, I am...consumed with envy at this vehicle. 417 00:27:17,840 --> 00:27:20,960 And if you aren't, look into yourself. 418 00:27:20,960 --> 00:27:26,400 # Free and easy rider 419 00:27:26,400 --> 00:27:29,600 # Driving circles round the sun...# 420 00:27:32,760 --> 00:27:34,360 # RAY CHARLES: Hit the road, Jack 421 00:27:37,000 --> 00:27:39,560 We're not in Kansas any more, Toto. 422 00:27:39,560 --> 00:27:42,600 # Hit the road, Jack and don't you come back 423 00:27:42,600 --> 00:27:45,040 # No more, no more, no more, no more... # 424 00:27:45,040 --> 00:27:49,120 Welcome to Route 66. I've 2,500 miles to cover, 425 00:27:49,120 --> 00:27:53,680 with only 150 miles on the clock. I've still a long way to go. 426 00:27:55,720 --> 00:27:57,800 Welcome to Normal. 427 00:27:57,800 --> 00:28:00,280 What a rotten name for a town. 428 00:28:00,280 --> 00:28:02,360 (LAUGHS) 429 00:28:02,360 --> 00:28:04,360 I notice it's red or beige. 430 00:28:06,680 --> 00:28:09,160 America is littered with these small towns, 431 00:28:09,160 --> 00:28:11,800 where you suspect everybody knows each other, 432 00:28:11,800 --> 00:28:16,320 and neighbours share lawnmowers as freely as they share spouses. 433 00:28:16,320 --> 00:28:20,640 Not that I'm actually suggesting they do that in my next destination. 434 00:28:29,880 --> 00:28:33,560 And now I've come to Atlanta to meet Bill Thomas, 435 00:28:33,560 --> 00:28:36,600 proprietor of the rather delightful Palm Grill Cafe, 436 00:28:36,600 --> 00:28:40,640 and Illinois' prize-winning piemaker and chief. 437 00:28:40,640 --> 00:28:42,840 Rhubarb. Rhubarb. I think I'm a peach. 438 00:28:42,840 --> 00:28:45,000 A peach man? All right. 439 00:28:45,000 --> 00:28:49,040 Peach is my favourite, too. It is? Yes. I could tell. 440 00:28:51,840 --> 00:28:53,760 All the best. 441 00:28:56,520 --> 00:28:59,920 Oh, my God. It's delicious. Isn't it the best? 442 00:29:02,360 --> 00:29:04,360 Who does the big giant belong to? 443 00:29:04,360 --> 00:29:07,160 To the town. To the town of Atlanta. 444 00:29:07,160 --> 00:29:13,000 Oh, I love them. I absolutely love them. 445 00:29:13,000 --> 00:29:15,080 There seems to be fewer and fewer. 446 00:29:15,080 --> 00:29:18,520 There's a donut shaped one, too, in L.A. 447 00:29:18,520 --> 00:29:24,000 A great big donut-shaped one. Yeah. 448 00:29:24,000 --> 00:29:27,640 I've seen pictures. When it rains, it looks as if it's been dunked. 449 00:29:27,640 --> 00:29:30,680 It gets wet on top and looks like a dunked donut. That's good. 450 00:29:30,680 --> 00:29:33,000 Well, I can see why you're the champion. 451 00:29:34,600 --> 00:29:37,120 Now, that crust you're eating... Yeah? 452 00:29:37,120 --> 00:29:41,200 This is really unusual. It uses vegetable oil. 453 00:29:41,200 --> 00:29:43,280 Have you ever done that? 454 00:29:43,280 --> 00:29:46,920 No. No butter? No. No butter. 455 00:29:46,920 --> 00:29:49,640 I always chopped up butter into little wee cubes, 456 00:29:49,640 --> 00:29:51,920 and then with the flour... Right. Right. 457 00:29:51,920 --> 00:29:54,520 But you actually do it with your fingers? Yes. 458 00:29:54,520 --> 00:30:00,960 That's the very old-fashioned way. For the consistency. 459 00:30:00,960 --> 00:30:04,080 I am. I'm impressed. That's not the easiest thing to do. 460 00:30:08,560 --> 00:30:10,680 He's a beauty. 461 00:30:10,680 --> 00:30:13,560 Oh, there should be more. They should be... 462 00:30:13,560 --> 00:30:15,480 They should be up and down the M1. 463 00:30:16,640 --> 00:30:19,120 Instead of those signs saying, 'Slow down', 464 00:30:19,120 --> 00:30:22,720 or, 'Take it easy', 'Check your speed', 'Have you been drinking?' 465 00:30:22,720 --> 00:30:25,120 The signs should be in his hands. 466 00:30:25,120 --> 00:30:27,520 He should be holding the sign up, like that. 467 00:30:27,520 --> 00:30:29,520 'Smile.' 468 00:30:29,520 --> 00:30:31,480 'Kiss your wife.' 469 00:30:33,280 --> 00:30:36,760 'Stop slapping your children. You're driving erratically.' 470 00:30:36,760 --> 00:30:40,080 You know that way fathers do. They lean over the driving seat 471 00:30:40,080 --> 00:30:42,840 and they whack every leg that sticks up. 472 00:30:42,840 --> 00:30:46,000 That's caused more bloody accidents in Britain. 473 00:31:06,120 --> 00:31:08,680 It's a funny thing, which really irritates me... 474 00:31:10,200 --> 00:31:12,480 ..is the loss of Americana in America. 475 00:31:19,080 --> 00:31:21,920 They don't trust their own taste, which is a shame. 476 00:31:21,920 --> 00:31:24,920 That's what attracted people to America... 477 00:31:24,920 --> 00:31:28,840 Cowboy hats...and Cuban heels... 478 00:31:28,840 --> 00:31:34,680 Shiny lipstick, Marilyn Monroe, Jayne Mansfield, Fred Astaire. 479 00:31:34,680 --> 00:31:37,120 They seem to have been giving it away, 480 00:31:37,120 --> 00:31:39,040 and I think that is a shame. 481 00:31:47,240 --> 00:31:49,320 130 miles down, 482 00:31:49,320 --> 00:31:52,440 and we're about to enter the state capital, Springfield. 483 00:31:52,440 --> 00:31:55,120 There are 38 Springfields in America. 484 00:31:55,120 --> 00:32:00,200 Which one is home to the cartoon family The Simpsons, I have no idea. 485 00:32:00,200 --> 00:32:02,960 This Springfield, however, has one resident 486 00:32:02,960 --> 00:32:05,240 who is even more famous than Homer, 487 00:32:05,240 --> 00:32:07,360 President Abraham Lincoln. 488 00:32:09,800 --> 00:32:13,400 Widely regarded as the greatest president in American history, 489 00:32:13,400 --> 00:32:16,960 Lincoln not only held the country together during the civil war, 490 00:32:16,960 --> 00:32:19,080 he also ended slavery in the states. 491 00:32:19,080 --> 00:32:23,240 Not bad for a self-educated man from a one-room shack in Kentucky. 492 00:32:26,560 --> 00:32:28,760 Welcome to the Abraham Lincoln home. 493 00:32:28,760 --> 00:32:31,640 Thank you very much indeed. You're welcome. 494 00:32:31,640 --> 00:32:33,840 It's always very strange 495 00:32:33,840 --> 00:32:37,120 when you're in the very place where a great person used to live. 496 00:32:38,800 --> 00:32:42,720 You can touch things that they have touched. It is so strange. 497 00:32:42,720 --> 00:32:44,800 There's a lovely story 498 00:32:44,800 --> 00:32:47,760 that he was well-known to have spoiled his children, 499 00:32:47,760 --> 00:32:51,920 and he was often seen pushing and pulling them along in a cart. 500 00:32:51,920 --> 00:32:54,520 That was considered very unmanly in those days. 501 00:32:54,520 --> 00:32:56,680 I like that. 502 00:32:56,680 --> 00:33:01,560 I remember, as a young man myself, pushing my children around, 503 00:33:01,560 --> 00:33:07,560 and people thinking that I was a bit of a hippy, all fringes and stripes. 504 00:33:07,560 --> 00:33:09,640 People found me very odd, 505 00:33:09,640 --> 00:33:13,320 so goodness say how did they find him in the 19th century? 506 00:33:13,320 --> 00:33:15,480 The more I've learned about Abraham Lincoln, 507 00:33:15,480 --> 00:33:18,400 the more I like him...as a person. 508 00:33:21,600 --> 00:33:24,640 Now, this is not the original wallpaper. 509 00:33:24,640 --> 00:33:27,920 I know you'd be looking at it and saying, 'Is that his taste?' 510 00:33:27,920 --> 00:33:31,240 No. You ain't seen nothing yet. 511 00:33:34,320 --> 00:33:38,720 This IS the original wallpaper, chosen by his wife. 512 00:33:38,720 --> 00:33:42,080 They think maybe it was a French company. I love it. 513 00:33:42,080 --> 00:33:44,680 I bet they were a really modern couple, 514 00:33:44,680 --> 00:33:46,360 for their time. 515 00:33:48,240 --> 00:33:50,440 I've got something great to show you. 516 00:33:50,440 --> 00:33:52,880 One of the most important rooms in the house... 517 00:33:53,880 --> 00:33:56,360 ..if not THE most important. 518 00:33:58,560 --> 00:34:00,640 This is what was known as 'the outhouse'. 519 00:34:04,760 --> 00:34:09,240 As you can see, it's got three pots, small, medium, and large, 520 00:34:09,240 --> 00:34:12,640 depending on the size of your backside, I guess. 521 00:34:12,640 --> 00:34:15,640 You didn't want to go plunging down that hole, I tell you. 522 00:34:20,280 --> 00:34:22,400 Do you know what, 523 00:34:22,400 --> 00:34:30,680 I can't help thinking of him sitting there with that big hat on. 524 00:34:32,760 --> 00:34:35,720 I'm not much of a one for rules, 525 00:34:35,720 --> 00:34:39,040 but one thing I would encourage anyone to do on a road trip 526 00:34:39,040 --> 00:34:41,160 is go off the map. 527 00:34:41,160 --> 00:34:45,480 That's where you'll find the real America they don't tell you about. 528 00:34:45,480 --> 00:34:48,000 I'm heading 70 miles south of Springfield 529 00:34:48,000 --> 00:34:50,400 to the Amish town of Arthur. 530 00:34:50,400 --> 00:34:52,760 Now, I'll be the first one to admit, 531 00:34:52,760 --> 00:34:55,280 that beyond the Harrison Ford movie Witness, 532 00:34:55,280 --> 00:34:57,240 I know very little about the Amish. 533 00:34:57,240 --> 00:35:01,560 A persecuted religious sect forced to flee 19th century Europe, 534 00:35:01,560 --> 00:35:03,800 they are, for all intents and purposes, 535 00:35:03,800 --> 00:35:06,760 self-exiled from the rest of the world. 536 00:35:06,760 --> 00:35:09,800 They rarely, if ever, allow cameras in their properties, 537 00:35:09,800 --> 00:35:11,720 so this is a real privilege for me. 538 00:35:12,600 --> 00:35:16,320 There's the bread if you want to start with the bread here. 539 00:35:16,320 --> 00:35:21,320 Local furniture manufacturer Mervyn has invited me into his home, 540 00:35:21,320 --> 00:35:23,720 to discover what really goes on 541 00:35:23,720 --> 00:35:26,200 beneath the bonnets and hats of movie folklore. 542 00:35:27,480 --> 00:35:29,640 There is one condition, however. 543 00:35:29,640 --> 00:35:33,760 He would rather we didn't focus on his face while filming, 544 00:35:34,880 --> 00:35:38,360 which would make our camera man's job a bit more interesting. 545 00:35:38,360 --> 00:35:40,400 Is that your hat? Yeah, that's my hat. 546 00:35:40,400 --> 00:35:43,360 Let me see you with your hat on. (LAUGHS) OK. 547 00:35:45,000 --> 00:35:48,000 Cos I think you're not an Amish until you get that hat on. 548 00:35:48,000 --> 00:35:50,160 (LAUGHS) 549 00:35:50,160 --> 00:35:53,120 Tell me something, why do the Amish have no moustache? 550 00:35:53,120 --> 00:35:55,200 Uh... I... 551 00:35:55,200 --> 00:35:58,680 I really don't know. It's just one of those customs, I guess... 552 00:35:58,680 --> 00:36:01,600 Yeah, cos I've never seen an Amish with a moustache, 553 00:36:01,600 --> 00:36:05,160 just a beard around here. It's just one of those customs like... 554 00:36:05,160 --> 00:36:07,000 We, kind of, all try to be alike. Yeah. 555 00:36:09,040 --> 00:36:12,320 I guess they feel like it's not necessary to have a moustache. 556 00:36:12,320 --> 00:36:15,520 Some do and some don't. I think it's absolutely necessary. 557 00:36:15,520 --> 00:36:17,440 (LAUGH) OK. 558 00:36:19,760 --> 00:36:22,200 And what about clothes for Amish people... 559 00:36:22,200 --> 00:36:25,880 Do you buy clothes in town or do you have them made? 560 00:36:25,880 --> 00:36:27,720 A lot of them make their own clothes. 561 00:36:29,760 --> 00:36:34,280 We can buy shirts, and in this area we're not allowed pockets on shirts, 562 00:36:34,280 --> 00:36:37,040 so if they've got pockets, we take the pockets off. 563 00:36:37,040 --> 00:36:39,320 You're not allowed pockets? No. 564 00:36:39,320 --> 00:36:41,440 Not on the shirts. Why's that? 565 00:36:41,440 --> 00:36:44,720 Well, I guess it's one of those things. Another of the rules. 566 00:36:44,720 --> 00:36:46,720 (LAUGHS) 567 00:36:48,440 --> 00:36:51,600 Fortunately, there are no rules about who drives the buggy, 568 00:36:51,600 --> 00:36:54,400 and Mervyn's bravely allowing me to take the reigns. 569 00:36:55,800 --> 00:36:57,800 Got the hang of it? Yeah. 570 00:36:57,800 --> 00:36:59,720 Pretty simple, isn't it? 571 00:37:10,560 --> 00:37:13,960 But do you know what I find very impressive, Mervyn, 572 00:37:13,960 --> 00:37:17,640 you keep talking about the rules for this, and the rules for that, 573 00:37:17,640 --> 00:37:20,960 and you seem very comfortable with it. Oh, yeah. 574 00:37:20,960 --> 00:37:23,160 You seem very easy with it. Yeah. It uh... 575 00:37:23,160 --> 00:37:25,320 It's something you get used to. 576 00:37:25,320 --> 00:37:28,360 From the outside people think it's kind of fanatical, 577 00:37:28,360 --> 00:37:30,440 but close up you seem very comfortable 578 00:37:30,440 --> 00:37:33,760 and happy with what you're doing. Oh, yeah. Yeah. 579 00:37:33,760 --> 00:37:37,840 It's nice to keep 580 00:37:37,840 --> 00:37:42,200 and just do your own thing, you know? Yes. 581 00:37:42,200 --> 00:37:44,280 So, you got any children, Billy? 582 00:37:44,280 --> 00:37:48,280 Five. Five? Yeah. Four girls and a boy. 583 00:37:48,280 --> 00:37:51,360 How many children have you got? We got five children. 584 00:37:52,880 --> 00:37:56,160 We had six, and the youngest one actually passed on. 585 00:37:56,160 --> 00:37:58,480 Oh, that's - We had an accident when he was... 586 00:37:59,720 --> 00:38:03,880 ..14-months-old. 14 months? Oh, that must've broken your heart? 587 00:38:03,880 --> 00:38:05,840 Yeah, it was a sad situation. 588 00:38:07,920 --> 00:38:09,840 I was out in the barn and I... 589 00:38:11,200 --> 00:38:14,600 I was just using the motor to move a hay-bale 590 00:38:14,600 --> 00:38:17,400 and I backed over him. Oh, no. 591 00:38:18,840 --> 00:38:20,720 It's been 20... 592 00:38:21,600 --> 00:38:23,680 The second of April it was 20 years ago, so... 593 00:38:26,480 --> 00:38:29,160 And you still think about it a lot. Oh, I bet you do. 594 00:38:29,160 --> 00:38:33,000 But, you know, life goes on, and... 595 00:38:33,000 --> 00:38:35,480 You've just got to make the best of it sometimes. 596 00:38:35,480 --> 00:38:37,400 Of course you do. 597 00:38:43,160 --> 00:38:46,400 Now, when it comes to getting married to another Amish person, 598 00:38:46,400 --> 00:38:48,480 how do you find a wife? 599 00:38:48,480 --> 00:38:50,560 An Amish person? 600 00:38:50,560 --> 00:38:55,680 Yeah, how would the average Amish guy find an Amish wife? 601 00:38:55,680 --> 00:38:58,880 What I did... I met her at a certain place, my wife, 602 00:38:58,880 --> 00:39:03,320 and we got acquainted, and then we started dating each other. 603 00:39:03,320 --> 00:39:08,480 What, did you meet her at a sort of community...thing, at a dance, 604 00:39:08,480 --> 00:39:10,600 or a get-together or something? 605 00:39:10,600 --> 00:39:13,480 Well...it was probably where it shouldn't have been. 606 00:39:16,160 --> 00:39:19,080 We're all humans, just like the rest of them. 607 00:39:19,080 --> 00:39:22,280 Absolutely. I like some of the conclusions you've come to, 608 00:39:22,280 --> 00:39:24,320 like having no pockets. (LAUGHS) 609 00:39:24,320 --> 00:39:26,960 There's something nice about that. 610 00:39:26,960 --> 00:39:30,880 I'll have to hire you to do the driving for me, then I can sleep. 611 00:39:30,880 --> 00:39:33,520 Absolutely. I'd happily be your roadie. (LAUGHS) 612 00:39:42,480 --> 00:39:45,200 Oh, bollocks. 613 00:39:45,200 --> 00:39:48,440 Greetings from Illinois, on Route 66. 614 00:39:48,440 --> 00:39:52,440 Since leaving Chicago, I've clocked over 300 miles, 615 00:39:52,440 --> 00:39:55,200 and we're about to enter tornado country. 616 00:39:57,000 --> 00:39:59,000 # THE ALLMAN BROTHERS: Midnight Rider 617 00:40:02,800 --> 00:40:06,200 Forget everything you think you know about bad weather. 618 00:40:06,200 --> 00:40:09,040 Tornados are nature's weapons of mass destruction. 619 00:40:09,040 --> 00:40:13,600 The average amount that hit land at this time of year is 116, 620 00:40:13,600 --> 00:40:15,760 which is terrifying enough, 621 00:40:15,760 --> 00:40:20,080 but since I got here there have been 292. 622 00:40:20,080 --> 00:40:23,120 I'm heading straight to the outskirts of St Louis, 623 00:40:23,120 --> 00:40:25,640 where five of them hit just a few days ago. 624 00:40:27,080 --> 00:40:31,920 # And I don't own the clothes I'm wearing 625 00:40:31,920 --> 00:40:36,520 # And the road goes on forever...# 626 00:40:36,520 --> 00:40:39,080 Oh, my God. 627 00:40:42,680 --> 00:40:44,680 Hello. Hi. 628 00:40:44,680 --> 00:40:47,040 Look at this. My G... 629 00:40:47,040 --> 00:40:55,080 These used to be houses, these piles of rubble. 630 00:41:00,400 --> 00:41:04,320 The funniest thing is I don't even know how many houses this is. 631 00:41:04,320 --> 00:41:07,720 There's no evidence of how many houses were here. 632 00:41:07,720 --> 00:41:09,640 There's somebody's bath. 633 00:41:16,280 --> 00:41:18,480 Extraordinary. 634 00:41:18,480 --> 00:41:21,360 I've never been this close to this kind of thing before. 635 00:41:24,120 --> 00:41:26,200 The tornado was half a mile wide, 636 00:41:26,200 --> 00:41:30,720 and it ripped through here at 166 miles per hour. 637 00:41:30,720 --> 00:41:33,280 30 seconds later, all of this was gone. 638 00:41:33,280 --> 00:41:35,200 That's all it took. 30 seconds. 639 00:41:35,200 --> 00:41:38,400 Hi. Hello. Nice to meet you. Nice to meet you. 640 00:41:38,400 --> 00:41:40,320 What was the noise like? 641 00:41:41,640 --> 00:41:44,680 They say it sounds like a freight train coming through. 642 00:41:44,680 --> 00:41:48,200 My dad said it sounded like a train was going right by the house. 643 00:41:48,200 --> 00:41:51,240 He said that the instant his ear popped he knew it was coming. 644 00:41:51,240 --> 00:41:53,360 Is that when he was still up here? 645 00:41:53,360 --> 00:41:55,760 He said it was as he was going down the steps. 646 00:41:55,760 --> 00:41:57,960 He made it down just before it hit. 647 00:41:57,960 --> 00:42:00,200 Oh, my God. 648 00:42:00,200 --> 00:42:03,440 That's the thing that got me, there wasn't one single death. 649 00:42:03,440 --> 00:42:05,240 Nope. 650 00:42:05,240 --> 00:42:08,400 So you just go through all this rubble 651 00:42:08,400 --> 00:42:10,560 hoping to find precious things? Yeah. 652 00:42:10,560 --> 00:42:14,120 Yeah, we found a couple of very valuable things, so we're happy. 653 00:42:14,120 --> 00:42:16,880 Oh, that's lovely. We found her engagement ring. 654 00:42:16,880 --> 00:42:20,600 You found your engagement ring? It was at my parents' house here, 655 00:42:20,600 --> 00:42:23,360 loose on my nightstand, and she found it in the rubble. 656 00:42:23,360 --> 00:42:25,400 And that's it? I hadn't been wearing it. 657 00:42:27,040 --> 00:42:29,160 I'm going to touch it for luck. 658 00:42:29,160 --> 00:42:33,040 It's definitely one of the luckiest pieces of jewellery I know, so... 659 00:42:33,040 --> 00:42:35,680 Wonderful. And my wedding dress survived too. 660 00:42:35,680 --> 00:42:39,200 You're wedding dress survived?! My wedding dress survived. 661 00:42:39,200 --> 00:42:42,680 It had a little bit of mud on it and a small hole in one of the seams, 662 00:42:42,680 --> 00:42:44,800 but all that can be fixed. 663 00:42:44,800 --> 00:42:48,200 All of that can be fixed easily, cos I watch Bridezilla. 664 00:42:48,200 --> 00:42:51,080 I know all of these things. (LAUGHS) Oh, yes. Oh, yes. 665 00:42:51,080 --> 00:42:53,680 I've watched Bridezilla before, too. 666 00:42:53,680 --> 00:42:57,440 Oh, that's wonderful. Do you know, one of the things that strikes me, 667 00:42:57,440 --> 00:42:59,480 the mood is high. Yeah. 668 00:42:59,480 --> 00:43:01,600 The optimism is extraordinary. 669 00:43:01,600 --> 00:43:05,160 Yeah. My parents, the first few days, were very upset, you know, 670 00:43:05,160 --> 00:43:08,200 that this is such a devastating thing, 671 00:43:08,200 --> 00:43:13,000 but now my mom's talking about, 'Oh, I want a big new front porch.' 672 00:43:13,000 --> 00:43:16,480 So she's redesigning the new place? She's already ready. 673 00:43:16,480 --> 00:43:18,920 I know that one. I'm married to a woman like that. 674 00:43:21,960 --> 00:43:24,400 I'm sorry for your misfortune. 675 00:43:24,400 --> 00:43:27,520 Lovely to meet you. Thank you. You, too. Good luck in the future. 676 00:43:30,520 --> 00:43:32,440 What a mess. 677 00:43:34,080 --> 00:43:37,720 So count your blessings, and don't complain about the weather, 678 00:43:37,720 --> 00:43:39,640 cos this is how weather can get. 679 00:43:44,680 --> 00:43:46,840 This is America at its best, 680 00:43:46,840 --> 00:43:50,440 good people doing good things for each other, just because they can. 681 00:43:50,440 --> 00:43:53,280 No tears, no complaints. 682 00:43:53,280 --> 00:43:55,280 Just stoicism and optimism. 683 00:43:55,280 --> 00:43:58,160 It's really pioneer spirit stuff, 684 00:43:58,160 --> 00:44:00,960 and it's that, even more than the roadside giants, 685 00:44:00,960 --> 00:44:02,840 that I love Americans for. 686 00:44:07,040 --> 00:44:12,440 Next time, I take 66 into the beating heart of America. 687 00:44:12,440 --> 00:44:15,160 (SINGS) It's a lovely day in Kansas today. 688 00:44:16,720 --> 00:44:18,640 There's gonna be big guns... 689 00:44:19,520 --> 00:44:21,480 Get out of here, you big Jessie. 690 00:44:22,800 --> 00:44:26,200 Sassy, brassy hunters... What do you want me to shoot? 691 00:44:26,200 --> 00:44:28,000 Obsessive compulsives... 692 00:44:28,000 --> 00:44:29,880 Oh, God! 693 00:44:30,960 --> 00:44:33,000 A soul-singing legend... 694 00:44:33,000 --> 00:44:35,400 (SINGS) 695 00:44:35,400 --> 00:44:38,560 And the biggest rocking chair you have ever seen. 696 00:44:38,560 --> 00:44:43,520 (LAUGHS) 697 00:45:14,000 --> 00:45:16,000 itfc subtitles