1 00:00:02,000 --> 00:00:07,480 Britain is an island surrounded by a cold and unforgiving sea. 2 00:00:07,480 --> 00:00:10,720 For centuries it protected us from attack. 3 00:00:10,720 --> 00:00:16,900 But to prosper and thrive we would need to do more than just hide behind her saltwater shield. 4 00:00:16,900 --> 00:00:21,450 Britain needed brave men, willing to venture out into the unknown 5 00:00:21,450 --> 00:00:23,850 and she needed good boats to take them there. 6 00:00:26,890 --> 00:00:28,760 I've spent my life at sea. 7 00:00:28,760 --> 00:00:33,780 Now I'm going to take passage on six boats that, together, tell the story of modern Britain. 8 00:00:33,780 --> 00:00:41,750 Built for exploration, war, fishing, industry and our very survival, 9 00:00:41,750 --> 00:00:46,585 these are the boats that built Britain and changed the way we live forever. 10 00:00:48,410 --> 00:00:53,420 This time I'm going to be sailing aboard a Bristol Channel Pilot Cutter. 11 00:00:53,420 --> 00:00:59,420 By the mid 19th Century, the country was at the centre of a shipping network that spanned the globe. 12 00:00:59,420 --> 00:01:03,780 But to arrive safely in harbour, these ships needed pilots 13 00:01:03,780 --> 00:01:08,330 to guide them on the last, most dangerous leg of their journey. 14 00:01:08,330 --> 00:01:13,210 The Bristol Channel ports were of central importance and the Bristol Channel Pilot Cutter 15 00:01:13,210 --> 00:01:20,470 was uniquely adapted to operate off a coastline that was powering not just Britain, but the world. 16 00:01:20,470 --> 00:01:24,270 This is the boat that powered it all. 17 00:01:39,690 --> 00:01:41,940 The Bristol Channel Pilot Cutter is among 18 00:01:41,940 --> 00:01:47,330 the most charismatic of all Britain's sailing vessels. 19 00:01:47,330 --> 00:01:50,470 Fast, powerful, able to withstand any weather, 20 00:01:50,470 --> 00:01:54,180 she took the pilots out to the ships coming up the Bristol Channel, 21 00:01:54,180 --> 00:01:59,660 which is a notoriously difficult stretch of water, at a time when the British Empire really needed them. 22 00:01:59,660 --> 00:02:02,990 Without pilots there was going to be no shipping. 23 00:02:02,990 --> 00:02:05,527 No shipping, no British Empire. 24 00:02:08,660 --> 00:02:13,730 The Bristol Channel has always been one of Britain's most important ocean highways. 25 00:02:13,730 --> 00:02:17,620 A vital trading centre for ships arriving from the West. 26 00:02:17,620 --> 00:02:22,590 Hello, good morning, gentlemen. This is 7VTS, and the orders at 0900... 27 00:02:22,590 --> 00:02:25,020 Today, any vessel entering the channel 28 00:02:25,020 --> 00:02:28,870 is meticulously checked and identified before a pilot is put on board. 29 00:02:28,870 --> 00:02:34,779 He guides the ship on what is potentially the most dangerous leg of her journey - 30 00:02:34,779 --> 00:02:38,442 the final trip from the open sea into harbour. 31 00:02:40,129 --> 00:02:47,160 But in the 19th Century the Bristol Channel had all the makings of a graveyard for incoming vessels. 32 00:02:49,029 --> 00:02:52,739 Ships were bigger than ever before and one wrong step could mean 33 00:02:52,739 --> 00:02:57,939 the loss of expensive cargo or, worse, loss of life. 34 00:02:57,939 --> 00:03:06,939 To navigate these challenging waters required local knowledge, provided by a local expert - the pilot. 35 00:03:06,939 --> 00:03:13,459 Self-employed and aggressively independent, the pilots were paid only when by the ships they boarded. 36 00:03:13,459 --> 00:03:18,289 Their life was a constant battle to be the first pilot out there. 37 00:03:18,289 --> 00:03:26,071 To make sure you won that race, you needed a boat that was seaworthy, safe and, above all, fast. 38 00:03:27,619 --> 00:03:31,929 It was a cut-throat business on what could often be a desperate stretch of water. 39 00:03:31,929 --> 00:03:34,238 Only one boat was up to the job... 40 00:03:36,429 --> 00:03:39,239 The Bristol Channel Pilot Cutter. 41 00:03:41,349 --> 00:03:43,409 This boat is a true thoroughbred. 42 00:03:43,409 --> 00:03:46,929 Her design evolved from thousands of hours at sea. 43 00:03:46,929 --> 00:03:50,589 The perfect combination of form and function 44 00:03:50,589 --> 00:03:54,662 that many say hasn't been bettered by any sailing boat since. 45 00:03:58,179 --> 00:04:00,899 But this is definitely not a gentleman's yacht. 46 00:04:00,899 --> 00:04:05,259 She's a working boat, designed for working seamen. 47 00:04:05,259 --> 00:04:09,809 Men like Lewis Alexander, who stopped at nothing to make sure 48 00:04:09,809 --> 00:04:13,984 his pilot cutter was the fastest, most radical boat that could be built. 49 00:04:18,009 --> 00:04:22,039 But you can't fully understand the world of the Pilot Cutter 50 00:04:22,039 --> 00:04:25,372 until you've grasped the essence of the waters they had to work. 51 00:04:29,399 --> 00:04:34,985 Even on a calm day, the tidal forces of the Bristol Channel are deceptively powerful. 52 00:04:36,809 --> 00:04:40,039 To find out more I've come to meet local sailor Rob Salvidge, 53 00:04:40,039 --> 00:04:43,338 a man who knows the sea here as well as anyone. 54 00:04:45,579 --> 00:04:48,949 Two days after a full moon you've got big spring tides. 55 00:04:48,949 --> 00:04:53,169 A massive swirling of unimaginable amounts of water coming 56 00:04:53,169 --> 00:04:56,399 in and out of the Bristol Channel and it's all got to go somewhere. 57 00:04:56,399 --> 00:05:02,119 And it's what it does and where it goes and how it corresponds with the underlying contours 58 00:05:02,119 --> 00:05:06,579 that is the key and the secret to understanding what the tides are here 59 00:05:06,579 --> 00:05:09,809 and how they can be either your friend or your enemy. 60 00:05:09,809 --> 00:05:13,889 Its not difficult to understand why this tide is one of the largest in the world 61 00:05:13,889 --> 00:05:16,329 when you look at the geography of where we are. 62 00:05:16,329 --> 00:05:21,529 The two shorelines funnel the Atlantic into a bottleneck up by Bristol. 63 00:05:21,529 --> 00:05:24,159 It comes in from over here. 64 00:05:24,159 --> 00:05:26,269 Here it is. Here's the tide coming in. 65 00:05:26,269 --> 00:05:33,439 And it reaches a point here between the West Coast of Wales and Cornwall down there. 66 00:05:33,439 --> 00:05:36,809 Once it gets here it can't stop because there's loads more water behind it. 67 00:05:36,809 --> 00:05:39,859 So it keeps going, keeps going and funnels right the way up. 68 00:05:39,859 --> 00:05:44,409 And it's going sweeping right up the River Severn, up past Gloucester, up towards Worcester, 69 00:05:44,409 --> 00:05:48,869 until it's got nowhere else to go and then the height just keeps rising and rising and rising. 70 00:05:50,409 --> 00:05:55,569 The tide rises and falls so fast that what looks like open water one minute 71 00:05:55,569 --> 00:05:59,039 can turn into a sandbank or rocky shoal the next. Lurking. 72 00:05:59,039 --> 00:06:02,789 Ready to wreck your ship. 73 00:06:02,789 --> 00:06:07,099 So the rock is virtually dry when the tide's out and then there's 42 feet of water. 74 00:06:07,099 --> 00:06:09,769 And that's all got to appear here. 75 00:06:09,769 --> 00:06:13,329 And imagine that expanded across the whole width of the Channel. 76 00:06:13,329 --> 00:06:18,539 It's all got to appear from nothing to that in the space of about five and a half hours. 77 00:06:18,539 --> 00:06:25,939 What this means is that with every tide more than 13 billion tonnes of water pour into the Bristol Channel, 78 00:06:25,939 --> 00:06:29,839 only to be flushed out again six hours later. 79 00:06:29,839 --> 00:06:35,879 But those 13 billion tonnes aren't just moving up and down, they're roaring along, too. 80 00:06:35,879 --> 00:06:40,521 Veritable torrents, often moving faster than a boat can sail. 81 00:06:42,449 --> 00:06:48,449 And those tides could spell catastrophe for any vessel inbound to Bristol, Cardiff 82 00:06:48,449 --> 00:06:50,428 or any other port around here. 83 00:06:51,489 --> 00:06:55,569 No mater if you'd sailed your ship safely from America or Australia, 84 00:06:55,569 --> 00:07:01,059 it was when the waters narrowed into the Bristol Channel and the tides really began to rumble 85 00:07:01,059 --> 00:07:07,396 that danger lurked... and that was when you needed a pilot, a local man to show the way. 86 00:07:09,679 --> 00:07:13,012 So what sort of person makes a good pilot? 87 00:07:15,259 --> 00:07:18,869 For John Rich, piloting runs deep in his veins. 88 00:07:18,869 --> 00:07:22,149 Tom! Nice to see you. 89 00:07:22,149 --> 00:07:25,899 'It goes back more than 3 generations to the days when his great grandfather 90 00:07:25,899 --> 00:07:29,089 'sailed the magnificent pilot cutters. ' 91 00:07:29,089 --> 00:07:30,259 Oh, my goodness! 92 00:07:30,259 --> 00:07:32,699 Well, well, that was your granddad's boat? 93 00:07:32,699 --> 00:07:34,669 She was... yes. 94 00:07:34,669 --> 00:07:39,499 Today John's retired, but he served for 30 years as a Bristol Channel pilot 95 00:07:39,499 --> 00:07:42,689 on modern diesel-powered pilot boats. 96 00:07:42,689 --> 00:07:46,299 To pass for his license, he had to know that he could successfully 97 00:07:46,299 --> 00:07:52,859 navigate any ship, from a super tanker to a nuclear submarine without a second thought... 98 00:07:52,859 --> 00:07:58,299 and whatever ship he was boarding, egos had to be set aside. 99 00:07:58,299 --> 00:08:02,939 The pilot has complete charge of the navigation and is totally responsible 100 00:08:02,939 --> 00:08:08,839 for anything that happens to that vessel between the time he boards and the captain discharges him. 101 00:08:08,839 --> 00:08:12,739 I piloted around about 2,000 ships. 102 00:08:12,739 --> 00:08:20,149 I think on only three occasions, I can recall having any problem at all with the captain. 103 00:08:20,149 --> 00:08:26,199 But at any time in the channel he could say, "No, pilot, I don't like the way you're doing this. " 104 00:08:26,199 --> 00:08:27,789 "Give me your note, 105 00:08:27,789 --> 00:08:29,849 "I'm discharging you". 106 00:08:29,849 --> 00:08:32,479 Then his ship was deemed unseaworthy. 107 00:08:32,479 --> 00:08:38,849 But so severe is the Bristol Channel tide that pilots were very often greeted with huge relief. 108 00:08:38,849 --> 00:08:43,589 I had one Greek and he was nearly in tears. 109 00:08:43,589 --> 00:08:48,139 And I said, "What's the problem"? This was in the early 1960s. 110 00:08:48,139 --> 00:08:51,419 He had a wartime chart, 1945. 111 00:08:51,419 --> 00:08:53,669 Oh, my goodness. That's all he had. 112 00:08:53,669 --> 00:08:57,279 All the buoys had changed. The lights had changed. 113 00:08:57,279 --> 00:08:59,759 He said, "It's a terrible Channel port... " 114 00:08:59,759 --> 00:09:02,569 And he hugged me! 115 00:09:02,569 --> 00:09:04,119 "God I'm glad to see you, pilot. 116 00:09:04,119 --> 00:09:06,656 "This is a terrible channel. " 117 00:09:08,529 --> 00:09:12,559 Meeting John has given me a real insight into the job of piloting. 118 00:09:12,559 --> 00:09:15,609 But if it was tough when John was doing it on a modern boat, 119 00:09:15,609 --> 00:09:19,309 it was even tougher back in the age of sail. 120 00:09:19,309 --> 00:09:25,407 And for hundreds of years pilots were striving to develop the perfect boat for the job. 121 00:09:27,839 --> 00:09:30,979 There have been pilots on the Bristol Channel since records began. 122 00:09:30,979 --> 00:09:36,229 And like most places, in the early days, the guys didn't have specially-built boats. 123 00:09:36,229 --> 00:09:38,299 They used whatever they had. 124 00:09:38,299 --> 00:09:45,239 And in this book there's a picture of the sort of boats pilots were using all the way around the UK. 125 00:09:46,219 --> 00:09:49,779 This is a general purpose sort of boat, probably did a bit of fishing, 126 00:09:49,779 --> 00:09:53,021 four honest longshoremen there, all of them capable of doing the job. 127 00:09:54,799 --> 00:09:58,169 But when you look at what happened to her in heavy seas, you can see 128 00:09:58,169 --> 00:10:01,639 that there was a limit to what you could do with a boat like that. 129 00:10:01,639 --> 00:10:03,989 She didn't have a deck you see, she was open, 130 00:10:03,989 --> 00:10:08,109 which made her great for a bit of inshore fishing, but not much good for standing out at sea 131 00:10:08,109 --> 00:10:12,139 in the Bristol Channel on a nasty night in a gale of wind with breaking water. 132 00:10:12,139 --> 00:10:15,666 It was clear, as trade increased, they were going to need a better boat. 133 00:10:17,629 --> 00:10:21,989 By the beginning of the 19th century, the volume of shipping into the Bristol Channel 134 00:10:21,989 --> 00:10:25,739 was increasing rapidly as the industrial revolution gained momentum. 135 00:10:25,739 --> 00:10:30,849 Now pilot boats needed to be able to put further out to sea in any weather. 136 00:10:30,849 --> 00:10:34,797 Slowly, the form of the boats began to improve. 137 00:10:36,849 --> 00:10:42,329 We've got a lines plan here of one of the boats that was operating round about 1800. 138 00:10:42,329 --> 00:10:48,189 The run, the way the water pours off the stern of the boat is... Well, it's a bit messy, quite honestly. 139 00:10:48,189 --> 00:10:50,119 It's not going to be fast, this boat. 140 00:10:50,119 --> 00:10:54,009 But she does look as if she's going to be comfortable. She's got a deck on her. 141 00:10:54,009 --> 00:10:59,399 She's not really built for speed but she looks seaworthy and solid. 142 00:10:59,399 --> 00:11:04,509 As commerce in the Channel increased, so did the competition between pilots. 143 00:11:04,509 --> 00:11:10,879 To beat their fellows out to the ships, pilots were constantly developing faster, more able boats. 144 00:11:10,879 --> 00:11:17,019 The competition was hotting up and to keep your nose ahead in the endless race to the shipping lanes, 145 00:11:17,019 --> 00:11:19,979 performance was the key. 146 00:11:19,979 --> 00:11:25,419 By the end of the 19th century, through a process of continual evolution and improvement, 147 00:11:25,419 --> 00:11:28,319 the pilots had come up with the perfect boat for the job, 148 00:11:28,319 --> 00:11:31,979 the Bristol Channel Pilot Cutter. 149 00:11:31,979 --> 00:11:34,739 Absolute perfection on the water. 150 00:11:34,739 --> 00:11:37,649 And there was nothing like her out there at all. 151 00:11:37,649 --> 00:11:42,529 If we look at her here we can she she has a fine high bow, 152 00:11:42,529 --> 00:11:44,959 which is going to push the seas aside. 153 00:11:44,959 --> 00:11:46,839 The entry is now lean. 154 00:11:46,839 --> 00:11:49,419 She can work to windward. Look at this sail. 155 00:11:49,419 --> 00:11:52,279 There's many a yacht today can't stow a sail like that. 156 00:11:52,279 --> 00:11:56,069 Those guys have got real pride in this vessel. 157 00:11:56,069 --> 00:11:58,789 She's so well-designed and so perfectly balanced 158 00:11:58,789 --> 00:12:00,809 that there's nobody at the helm, look. 159 00:12:00,809 --> 00:12:04,889 She's sailing herself, the guys are up at the mast attending to the rig. 160 00:12:04,889 --> 00:12:07,189 Getting the sails on. 161 00:12:07,189 --> 00:12:11,449 There were no prizes for second place in pilotage and the owner of this boat knew 162 00:12:11,449 --> 00:12:16,979 that he could go out to sea, spread his canvas and thrash any of the boats that had come before him. 163 00:12:16,979 --> 00:12:21,579 He was going to be out there to windward, picking off the prime ships 164 00:12:21,579 --> 00:12:24,764 and coming home with his pockets full of money. 165 00:12:26,219 --> 00:12:32,499 But even with the essential parameters in place, the process of development never stopped 166 00:12:32,499 --> 00:12:36,949 as pilots fought to gain the tiniest advantage over their rivals. 167 00:12:36,949 --> 00:12:41,269 And in this shed, undergoing restoration is the best of the lot, 168 00:12:41,269 --> 00:12:46,332 the fastest pilot cutter ever built - Kindly Light. 169 00:12:49,559 --> 00:12:52,049 Here she is - Kindly Light. 170 00:12:52,049 --> 00:12:58,329 Beyond argument, the fastest Pilot Cutter that ever sailed the waters of the Bristol Channel. 171 00:12:58,329 --> 00:13:00,866 And when you look at her, you can see why. 172 00:13:02,599 --> 00:13:09,299 Built in 1911, Kindly Light is the most perfect example of everything that makes pilot cutters so special. 173 00:13:09,299 --> 00:13:16,193 53 feet of grace and power, that all begins under the water in her revolutionary hull. 174 00:13:17,599 --> 00:13:24,019 A typical, middle-of-the-road pilot cutter actually had quite a, what we call a slack mid ships section. 175 00:13:24,019 --> 00:13:26,599 If you looked at her from the bow towards where I am, 176 00:13:26,599 --> 00:13:31,298 you would see a boat that was that sort of shape with a little bit of tip right at the bottom. 177 00:13:32,319 --> 00:13:36,629 Look at this! It's like a wineglass all the way. 178 00:13:36,629 --> 00:13:38,409 Dropping dead to the keel. 179 00:13:38,409 --> 00:13:40,379 And swelling out here. 180 00:13:40,379 --> 00:13:43,009 Absolutely sexy shape. 181 00:13:43,009 --> 00:13:45,349 And that carries on right to the stern. 182 00:13:45,349 --> 00:13:50,229 And if you look at her, looking towards the bow, this hollow shape goes all the way to the stem. 183 00:13:50,229 --> 00:13:55,292 This is so radical she could have shown the yachts of her day a thing or two. 184 00:13:56,319 --> 00:14:00,679 With her athletic lines and deep keel, her pilot had cracked 185 00:14:00,679 --> 00:14:04,149 the perfect combination of speed and seaworthiness. 186 00:14:04,149 --> 00:14:08,319 A boat that could sail fast in even the roughest conditions. 187 00:14:08,319 --> 00:14:16,289 On deck, the same attention to detail and adaptation to a working life at sea are just as evident. 188 00:14:16,289 --> 00:14:22,899 Staunchly constructed and ruthlessly efficient, there isn't a single weak link or unnecessary component 189 00:14:22,899 --> 00:14:25,529 anywhere on board. 190 00:14:25,529 --> 00:14:29,889 I really can't think of any boat that is better set up for short-handed sailing 191 00:14:29,889 --> 00:14:31,999 than one of these pilot cutters. 192 00:14:31,999 --> 00:14:34,429 All you need is to hand. 193 00:14:34,429 --> 00:14:37,199 Your tiller for steering the boat. 194 00:14:37,199 --> 00:14:39,639 If she makes water, 195 00:14:39,639 --> 00:14:41,979 your pump is right here. 196 00:14:41,979 --> 00:14:46,199 And if you want to drop the mainsail in a hurry to slow the boat down or stop her, 197 00:14:46,199 --> 00:14:48,919 it's made fast right here on these posts. 198 00:14:48,919 --> 00:14:52,059 All done by one man from here. 199 00:14:52,059 --> 00:14:57,589 The product of generations of working seamen just developing and developing 200 00:14:57,589 --> 00:15:00,649 until they come up with something that is near perfection. 201 00:15:02,189 --> 00:15:08,839 All pilot cutters were good, but the reason why Kindly Light is so special comes down to her owner. 202 00:15:08,839 --> 00:15:13,059 He was a great seamen but also a canny businessman 203 00:15:13,059 --> 00:15:19,109 and he knew that if he built the quickest boat he'd beat his fellow pilots out to the biggest ships. 204 00:15:19,109 --> 00:15:24,888 His name was Lewis Alexander, the most successful pilot of them all. 205 00:15:26,609 --> 00:15:29,379 Lewis Alexander paid £500 for this boat. 206 00:15:29,379 --> 00:15:33,219 That's 40% more than the average pilot cutter of this era. 207 00:15:33,219 --> 00:15:38,049 I suppose if you commissioned one today you wouldn't see much change out of £750,000. 208 00:15:38,049 --> 00:15:43,859 It's a huge investment for a working man, but the rewards were big. 209 00:15:43,859 --> 00:15:49,439 In one year this boat turned over £1,500 - 210 00:15:49,439 --> 00:15:55,583 a huge return on the investment and more money than the average working man was going to see in a lifetime. 211 00:15:57,359 --> 00:16:02,189 For Lewis Alexander and Kindly Light, it was boom time. 212 00:16:02,189 --> 00:16:06,269 For centuries, Bristol had been the dominant port in the area. 213 00:16:06,269 --> 00:16:09,929 But as the industrial revolution got into full swing, 214 00:16:09,929 --> 00:16:13,592 other ports in the Channel grew to cope with the relentless demand. 215 00:16:15,135 --> 00:16:20,566 By the mid 19th century, a new trade was becoming established and it wasn't centred in Bristol. 216 00:16:20,566 --> 00:16:23,057 It was here in South Wales. 217 00:16:24,835 --> 00:16:29,807 And this new trade was about to change the life of the Bristol Channel pilots for ever. 218 00:16:34,305 --> 00:16:38,806 This is a lump of Welsh steam coal from the Rhondda. 219 00:16:38,806 --> 00:16:44,006 The Rhondda isn't very far from the coast and, when the world became hungry for this product, 220 00:16:44,006 --> 00:16:48,835 it was here in Barry that the export trade really took off. 221 00:16:48,835 --> 00:16:54,330 In 1881 Barry had been a sleepy village of 85 souls. 222 00:16:55,355 --> 00:16:59,055 30 years later it became the centre of a shipping network 223 00:16:59,055 --> 00:17:04,448 spanning the world, exporting over 11 million tonnes of coal a year. 224 00:17:05,806 --> 00:17:08,015 Pilots had never been in greater demand. 225 00:17:08,015 --> 00:17:13,025 And Lewis Alexander was determined to exploit this opportunity, 226 00:17:13,025 --> 00:17:16,415 backing his faith in his boat no matter what the weather. 227 00:17:19,915 --> 00:17:23,806 'It oft times happened that the pilot when he got alongside 228 00:17:23,806 --> 00:17:27,415 'the ship he couldn't get back to the pilot cutter. 229 00:17:27,415 --> 00:17:33,375 'On one occasion I, myself, was boarding a Spanish steamer off to Poland, 230 00:17:33,375 --> 00:17:35,766 'rowing very hard. 231 00:17:35,766 --> 00:17:39,655 'Now the sea was sweeping the plough 232 00:17:39,655 --> 00:17:43,075 'and as I went up the ship bows, 233 00:17:43,075 --> 00:17:48,286 'it leaned over and threw me into the side. 234 00:17:48,286 --> 00:17:52,315 'I thought, that's enough of that!' 235 00:17:52,315 --> 00:17:57,895 Listening to Lewis Alexander's voice from all those years ago gives a sense of life as a pilot. 236 00:17:57,895 --> 00:18:01,595 But there's a man in Barry who actually met him. 237 00:18:01,595 --> 00:18:05,206 John Hart, for years coxswain of the Barry Lifeboat. 238 00:18:05,206 --> 00:18:07,075 Did you actually meet Lewis? 239 00:18:07,075 --> 00:18:12,615 Well, I was in his presence. But I wouldn't have dared speak to him or anything like that. 240 00:18:12,615 --> 00:18:14,765 So what sort of man was Lewis? 241 00:18:14,766 --> 00:18:16,646 He was very hard-working. 242 00:18:16,646 --> 00:18:18,335 Deeply religious. 243 00:18:18,335 --> 00:18:22,926 Would never work on a Sunday... and he would never sail on a Sunday. 244 00:18:22,926 --> 00:18:25,735 He might be at sea on a Sunday, but he would never sail on a Sunday. 245 00:18:25,735 --> 00:18:30,335 The blokes who worked for him worked hard but got well paid. 246 00:18:30,335 --> 00:18:35,166 When he was a young pilot he invested in the best boat he could buy. 247 00:18:35,166 --> 00:18:40,047 He paid almost twice as much for his boat as anyone else at the time. Yeah, he was a self-made guy. 248 00:18:42,235 --> 00:18:46,315 But, for Lewis, being first out to any old ship wasn't enough. 249 00:18:46,315 --> 00:18:50,955 He was only after the big ones, that paid the highest pilot's fees. 250 00:18:50,955 --> 00:18:53,535 They had very good intelligence and they knew 251 00:18:53,535 --> 00:18:56,675 something had left Liverpool or something had left London... 252 00:18:56,675 --> 00:18:58,595 or something had left New York. 253 00:18:58,595 --> 00:19:01,415 They had a pretty good idea of when it was due 254 00:19:01,415 --> 00:19:05,446 and they were going seeking for the very one they were looking for. The big ones. 255 00:19:05,446 --> 00:19:09,715 The big ones were the ships that paid pilots the most. 256 00:19:09,715 --> 00:19:15,286 And to make sure he was there to meet them, Lewis needed more than a fast boat. 257 00:19:15,286 --> 00:19:17,115 He needed information. 258 00:19:17,115 --> 00:19:20,675 He was one of the first man in Barry to own a telephone, 259 00:19:20,675 --> 00:19:24,385 so he could receive calls from his scouts way down in Devon, 260 00:19:24,385 --> 00:19:27,575 on the lookout for ships far down to the westward. 261 00:19:27,575 --> 00:19:30,755 He also paid the local butchers a shilling 262 00:19:30,755 --> 00:19:37,331 for a list of ships that were coming into harbour that had placed an advanced order for meat. 263 00:19:39,945 --> 00:19:44,446 Even Alexander's house was built to better his chances. 264 00:19:44,446 --> 00:19:49,886 Constructed high on the hill, overlooking the Bristol Channel, so he could check on his competitors 265 00:19:49,886 --> 00:19:52,844 and scan the horizon for incoming ships. 266 00:19:54,766 --> 00:19:58,054 Wow, what a view. 267 00:20:00,855 --> 00:20:04,655 The pilot would see it all from here. Remarkable. 268 00:20:04,655 --> 00:20:08,305 And it just shows what a successful pilot could actually do for himself. 269 00:20:08,305 --> 00:20:11,638 The rewards were huge. 270 00:20:13,515 --> 00:20:16,185 But all the intelligence in the world wouldn't help 271 00:20:16,185 --> 00:20:19,606 if you weren't master of your business out on the water. 272 00:20:19,606 --> 00:20:22,655 Ultimately the best pilots were consummate seamen 273 00:20:22,655 --> 00:20:26,079 who could handle their cutters without a second thought. 274 00:20:28,326 --> 00:20:32,875 It'll be a while before Lewis Alexander's Kindly Light is ready to sail again. 275 00:20:32,875 --> 00:20:40,475 But today we're in for a real treat, putting to sea on two of the last pilot cutters still sailing. 276 00:20:42,015 --> 00:20:47,315 Olga, built in 1904, is one of the biggest pilot cutters ever. 277 00:20:47,315 --> 00:20:51,065 Today, her racing crew of 8 is testimony to how competent 278 00:20:51,065 --> 00:20:55,707 the two men and an apprentice must have been who sailed her for a living. 279 00:20:58,425 --> 00:21:03,395 I'm going to be sailing on Cariad with her two dedicated owners, an earlier, smaller cutter. 280 00:21:03,395 --> 00:21:07,755 And, on paper, a slower boat. 281 00:21:07,755 --> 00:21:11,126 Putting to sea with the two together will give us a unique insight 282 00:21:11,126 --> 00:21:17,508 into how these boats evolved and what makes them such special craft out on the water. 283 00:21:20,225 --> 00:21:21,817 Up we go! 284 00:21:24,625 --> 00:21:27,594 Faster on the slope, please! 285 00:21:40,055 --> 00:21:46,806 A pilot cutter in full sail is a glorious sight and, as Olga comes level, we have a fine opportunity 286 00:21:46,806 --> 00:21:51,118 to size up her sale plan, the engine room of a Pilot Cutter. 287 00:21:52,806 --> 00:21:55,385 One, two, three, four sails there. 288 00:21:55,385 --> 00:21:59,086 We've got the jib at the front which is not setting to well at the moment, 289 00:21:59,086 --> 00:22:00,535 needs a bit of sheet on that. 290 00:22:00,535 --> 00:22:04,995 We've got the staysail behind it, the mainsail, the great big one 291 00:22:04,995 --> 00:22:07,995 and up at the top, that's the topsail, that's the technical one. 292 00:22:07,995 --> 00:22:12,675 Needs a bit of tweaking to get it right, but the boys have got it set a treat. It looks nice. 293 00:22:12,675 --> 00:22:17,275 Modern performance sailing boats can be twitchy to sail, 294 00:22:17,275 --> 00:22:21,686 requiring constant attention and tweaking from a large, attentive crew. 295 00:22:21,686 --> 00:22:26,275 But the great thing about a pilot cutter is that once you've got her set up right 296 00:22:26,275 --> 00:22:33,686 she'll almost sail herself, making her one of safest and most undemanding boats there is. 297 00:22:33,686 --> 00:22:36,355 So that is a classic gaff cutter now. 298 00:22:36,355 --> 00:22:37,905 She's got the lot. 299 00:22:37,905 --> 00:22:40,435 Every sail that a racing yacht would have carried 300 00:22:40,435 --> 00:22:44,519 and set on a working boat, on the waters she was built to work in. 301 00:22:48,825 --> 00:22:50,415 But that's enough about Olga. 302 00:22:50,415 --> 00:22:54,915 She may be a bigger and faster boat, but there's a vessel out there coming up Channel, 303 00:22:54,915 --> 00:22:56,185 Iooking for a pilot. 304 00:22:56,185 --> 00:22:58,995 I'm going to give it my best shot! 305 00:22:58,995 --> 00:23:00,635 Who's got the end of the sheet? 306 00:23:00,635 --> 00:23:03,305 Hang on. Wait! Wait! 307 00:23:03,305 --> 00:23:06,265 How's the trim up there, Ken? Looking good? 308 00:23:06,265 --> 00:23:09,875 Left of the main, please. Left of the main! 309 00:23:09,875 --> 00:23:11,705 Ease the sheet. 310 00:23:11,705 --> 00:23:15,595 Up, up, up... That's nearly it, now. 311 00:23:15,595 --> 00:23:17,465 Topsail end. Topsail end. 312 00:23:17,465 --> 00:23:19,625 Paul, towards you. 313 00:23:19,625 --> 00:23:22,995 Paul, you've got a bit of a tangle. That's not going to work, hang on. 314 00:23:22,995 --> 00:23:26,135 You'll have to go underneath that one. I was afraid that would happen. 315 00:23:26,135 --> 00:23:29,046 Never mind. We've put on a good showing. Let's bear away a touch. 316 00:23:29,046 --> 00:23:31,246 Let the jib go. 317 00:23:31,246 --> 00:23:35,566 Look at her. What a sight! Here we go. We'll see what happens on the next tack. 318 00:23:35,566 --> 00:23:38,854 We'll have you next time, boys! 319 00:23:42,035 --> 00:23:45,735 If you were on the slower boat your only hope as a pilot 320 00:23:45,735 --> 00:23:49,255 was that the bigger, faster cutter would carry on to the West 321 00:23:49,255 --> 00:23:52,345 towards the open Atlantic, looking for richer pickings. 322 00:23:52,345 --> 00:23:55,955 In the end there was no way we could beat the Olga... 323 00:23:55,955 --> 00:23:59,846 Fortunately she has, in fact, sailed on and we've found... 324 00:23:59,846 --> 00:24:06,735 well not exactly a ship, but a motorboat wanting to be brought into harbour. 325 00:24:06,735 --> 00:24:08,286 Well there she is. 326 00:24:08,286 --> 00:24:12,735 She's not quite a 1905 steamer but she's the best we could get. 327 00:24:12,735 --> 00:24:16,305 But before I can leave the cutter to board the other vessel, we have to 328 00:24:16,305 --> 00:24:21,265 stop her in her tracks, something modern yachts find difficult. 329 00:24:21,265 --> 00:24:23,335 For the right boat, it's just a matter 330 00:24:23,335 --> 00:24:27,595 of setting one sail to drive ahead and the rest to drive her backwards. 331 00:24:27,595 --> 00:24:30,135 It's called heaving to. 332 00:24:30,135 --> 00:24:34,777 It's highly desirable and these boats did it to perfection. 333 00:24:36,926 --> 00:24:42,415 Ken's putting the helm down and absolutely nothing is going to be done to these sails, nothing at all. 334 00:24:42,415 --> 00:24:45,039 I'm going to duck - the boom's going to come across in a minute 335 00:24:45,039 --> 00:24:50,379 and when they come across, the ones up front, the headsails are going to come aback. 336 00:24:50,379 --> 00:24:52,819 They're going to try and push the boat backwards. 337 00:24:52,819 --> 00:24:56,059 The mainsail is going to try and push her forwards 338 00:24:56,059 --> 00:25:01,029 and the whole shooting match is going to be balanced by the helm and the boat is going to go nowhere. 339 00:25:01,029 --> 00:25:03,319 Now's my chance! 340 00:25:03,319 --> 00:25:06,139 The cutter is holding steady. 341 00:25:06,139 --> 00:25:11,899 And remember, I'm actually climbing off the cutter here into this tiny little boat. 342 00:25:11,899 --> 00:25:15,889 Imagine now, I'm doing it on a reasonable day but there's a fair swell running. 343 00:25:15,889 --> 00:25:20,059 I've got some nerves about it. Imagine I was doing it in force 10 on a filthy black night. 344 00:25:20,059 --> 00:25:23,289 It doesn't bear thinking about. 345 00:25:23,289 --> 00:25:27,469 All I have to do is row across as quickly as I can. 346 00:25:27,469 --> 00:25:33,419 The cutter's crew had to tread a fine line between leaving the pilot with an impossible distance to scull 347 00:25:33,419 --> 00:25:38,479 or endangering everyone by coming in too close. 348 00:25:38,479 --> 00:25:42,649 Getting this balancing act right required great skill. 349 00:25:42,649 --> 00:25:46,779 Here we go. Welcome aboard. Thank you very much, Dave. 350 00:25:47,809 --> 00:25:51,089 Boarded a ship on the Bristol Channel. Wonderful. 351 00:25:51,089 --> 00:25:52,454 Well this is alright, isn't it? 352 00:25:53,669 --> 00:25:56,999 There we are! 353 00:25:56,999 --> 00:26:00,526 Here's to pilotage and good companions. 354 00:26:03,369 --> 00:26:08,580 Now the pilot's local knowledge would come into play as he guided the ship to a safe harbour. 355 00:26:10,689 --> 00:26:13,739 So there you are, that's the lot of a pilot. 356 00:26:13,739 --> 00:26:15,419 There's my old cutter there. 357 00:26:15,419 --> 00:26:19,969 Still two, I guess the guys are probably making themselves a cup of tea and then they'll take her in - 358 00:26:19,969 --> 00:26:22,829 they know I'm coming in pretty quick on this little vessel. 359 00:26:22,829 --> 00:26:28,779 We've done well. We'll be in, quick turn around and then back out to sea on the ebb tide, 360 00:26:28,779 --> 00:26:31,088 down to the westwards to see what we can get. 361 00:26:32,579 --> 00:26:35,629 And then the process will start all over again, 362 00:26:35,629 --> 00:26:42,379 every day, every week, fleets of ships arrived and left who could not manage without pilots. 363 00:26:42,379 --> 00:26:45,239 No matter what the weather, these courageous men 364 00:26:45,239 --> 00:26:51,189 repeatedly put their lives at risk at a time when Britain's trading vessels really needed them. 365 00:26:54,049 --> 00:26:57,189 So what happened to the pilots and their cutters? 366 00:26:57,189 --> 00:27:02,299 Well, their fate is tied up with the story of our old friend Lewis Alexander. 367 00:27:02,299 --> 00:27:05,399 In 1914 many sailors went to war. 368 00:27:05,399 --> 00:27:11,819 They returned to a world governed by steam and, increasingly, motor ships. 369 00:27:11,819 --> 00:27:15,989 Changing times had finally put paid to the free market. 370 00:27:15,989 --> 00:27:20,069 Perhaps the most appropriate epitaph for the pilot was found 371 00:27:20,069 --> 00:27:27,379 on an otherwise empty sheet of paper on which a pilot had written his objections to this amalgamation. 372 00:27:27,379 --> 00:27:31,599 He had written only five words - 373 00:27:31,599 --> 00:27:34,045 'I shall lose my freedom. ' 374 00:27:36,379 --> 00:27:39,849 But while boats come and go, the sea never changes 375 00:27:39,849 --> 00:27:42,899 and the Bristol channel remains as dangerous as ever. 376 00:27:42,899 --> 00:27:48,059 Massive diesel engines, radar and GPS have changed a lot of things 377 00:27:48,059 --> 00:27:51,529 but they have not removed the need for a pilot. 378 00:27:53,209 --> 00:27:57,239 Today just one pilot boat serves the whole of the Barry area. 379 00:27:57,239 --> 00:28:01,608 Ferrying a team of pilots in and out on a daily basis. 380 00:28:03,199 --> 00:28:09,709 No-one can question their expertise and the importance of their job, but I can't help thinking that some 381 00:28:09,709 --> 00:28:15,818 of the romance and free spirit that made the original pilots unique has gone. 382 00:28:18,389 --> 00:28:21,619 But even if the sailing pilots have disappeared, their legacy 383 00:28:21,619 --> 00:28:25,139 lives on in the beautiful cutters they left behind. 384 00:28:25,139 --> 00:28:32,033 Harmonious and supremely capable, they're among the greatest sailing boats ever to work the sea. 385 00:28:37,139 --> 00:28:40,229 Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd 386 00:28:40,229 --> 00:28:43,232 E-mail subtitling@bbc.co.uk