1 00:00:11,280 --> 00:00:13,800 The west coast of Scotland. 2 00:00:13,800 --> 00:00:16,480 Remote mountains and moors. 3 00:00:16,480 --> 00:00:19,360 A magnificent coastline - 4 00:00:19,360 --> 00:00:21,640 lochs and islands, 5 00:00:21,640 --> 00:00:25,200 linked by wild and often treacherous seas. 6 00:00:29,080 --> 00:00:33,760 A romantic place - Britain's last great wilderness. 7 00:00:38,760 --> 00:00:43,080 This is now an often empty landscape but once it thrived. 8 00:00:45,120 --> 00:00:50,200 For hundreds of years, people worked, travelled and traded here. 9 00:00:51,960 --> 00:00:56,200 I'm going to search out these trade routes of the west coast of Scotland... 10 00:00:57,360 --> 00:01:01,880 ..travel narrow canals blasted through the Highlands' rock 11 00:01:01,880 --> 00:01:04,680 and explore the arteries of industry 12 00:01:04,680 --> 00:01:07,480 that made the heart of Scotland rich. 13 00:01:42,520 --> 00:01:44,920 We are sailing in my boat Rocket, 14 00:01:44,920 --> 00:01:47,760 taking a shortcut through the Crinan Canal, 15 00:01:47,760 --> 00:01:51,120 down the western coast of Scotland, around the Isle of Bute 16 00:01:51,120 --> 00:01:54,400 and from there up the great River Clyde to the second city 17 00:01:54,400 --> 00:01:57,000 of the British Empire, Glasgow. 18 00:02:11,920 --> 00:02:15,960 My starting point is the small village of Craobh Haven. 19 00:02:17,160 --> 00:02:20,720 Before we set sail, John Holden, my sailing companion wants, as ever, 20 00:02:20,720 --> 00:02:24,960 to buy a few more bits and pieces for the boat. 21 00:02:24,960 --> 00:02:26,920 Good afternoon. 22 00:02:26,920 --> 00:02:30,480 How much is this, by the way? £2.50 a metre. How much? 23 00:02:30,480 --> 00:02:32,840 £2 a metre. £2 a metre. 24 00:02:32,840 --> 00:02:35,560 So we want... 14. 14 metres times two. 25 00:02:35,560 --> 00:02:38,000 I shall do that for you. Do we need anything else? 26 00:02:38,000 --> 00:02:42,040 Shall I have a look around? No! It will be fatal if you look around! 27 00:02:42,040 --> 00:02:44,840 Keep spending! Yeah, keep spending! 28 00:02:44,840 --> 00:02:46,720 Hello, Stanley. 29 00:02:46,720 --> 00:02:50,000 'Joining us on Rocket are the rest of the crew - 30 00:02:50,000 --> 00:02:51,920 'veteran sailor Peter Lucas...' 31 00:02:51,920 --> 00:02:53,840 Don't get your beard caught in it. 32 00:02:53,840 --> 00:02:57,960 I'll try not to. Yeah. Very cosy. '..my younger son Fred... 33 00:02:59,320 --> 00:03:02,360 '..oh, and John's dog Stanley.' 34 00:03:02,360 --> 00:03:04,560 Ready? Just give us a little push. Yes. 35 00:03:06,240 --> 00:03:08,880 Lovely. Thank you. 36 00:03:15,360 --> 00:03:17,920 This is the first time Rocket has been in these waters 37 00:03:17,920 --> 00:03:20,960 and it's very exciting to be here. It's a very untypical day. 38 00:03:20,960 --> 00:03:24,720 The sun is shining, the sea is flat and there is just a little breeze. 39 00:03:24,720 --> 00:03:26,760 You could be in the Mediterranean. 40 00:03:26,760 --> 00:03:29,360 But these waters are dangerous waters. 41 00:03:29,360 --> 00:03:32,920 They have strong tides and currents and whirlpools, 42 00:03:32,920 --> 00:03:37,080 and when the westerly gales blow, they come all the way from America. 43 00:03:39,320 --> 00:03:43,440 Keep that gaff. The gaff's fallen down. Hey! 44 00:03:43,440 --> 00:03:45,280 Who is on the peak? 45 00:03:45,280 --> 00:03:48,240 Stanley, you are really not allowed to sit there, on this bit. 46 00:03:48,240 --> 00:03:50,440 OK? Lovely. 47 00:03:50,440 --> 00:03:54,240 Let's have the jib, then. John, can you get Stanley out the way? 48 00:03:54,240 --> 00:03:58,840 John, we can't use the jib cos Stanley is sitting on it. Come on. 49 00:03:58,840 --> 00:04:01,640 Ready? Ready when you are. Let's go. 50 00:04:08,920 --> 00:04:11,640 There's not much wind so we've set all sail, 51 00:04:11,640 --> 00:04:13,440 hoping to beat the tide 52 00:04:13,440 --> 00:04:16,560 to see the mysterious whirlpools of Dorus Mor. 53 00:04:19,120 --> 00:04:22,360 You see the rough sea, there, it's just a great whirlpool. 54 00:04:22,360 --> 00:04:24,800 It's calm everywhere else and suddenly, here, 55 00:04:24,800 --> 00:04:27,800 we are in rough water. And this is a quiet day. 56 00:04:27,800 --> 00:04:29,760 You imagine this when there is a gale blowing. 57 00:04:29,760 --> 00:04:35,200 Very, very nasty place to be. It is difficult to get through here. 58 00:04:35,200 --> 00:04:38,280 The boat spins as we go. Look, here we are. We're turning. 59 00:04:39,480 --> 00:04:44,400 We are being turned, there, to port. Can't control it. Look. 60 00:04:44,400 --> 00:04:47,200 This is all the current swirling underneath the boat. 61 00:04:48,960 --> 00:04:51,040 It's very exciting. 62 00:04:56,480 --> 00:04:58,880 This is a part of the world where people couldn't, 63 00:04:58,880 --> 00:05:02,360 for centuries, travel overland. There were no roads. 64 00:05:02,360 --> 00:05:05,160 This is how people travelled - by sea. 65 00:05:05,160 --> 00:05:09,000 These are the pathways marked between headlands, 66 00:05:09,000 --> 00:05:11,200 into lochs, up creeks. 67 00:05:11,200 --> 00:05:14,400 For centuries, this was the only way of getting about. 68 00:05:17,040 --> 00:05:20,440 Sailing down the Sound of Jura, we are entering one of lochs 69 00:05:20,440 --> 00:05:24,880 which, for centuries, has been a gateway to the heart of the Scottish Highlands. 70 00:05:26,360 --> 00:05:31,600 Territory once ruled by the powerful Scottish clan, the Campbells. 71 00:05:35,200 --> 00:05:37,480 This is Duntrune Castle... 72 00:05:38,960 --> 00:05:41,720 ..standing proudly on its outcrop of rock. 73 00:05:41,720 --> 00:05:43,480 Built over 800 years ago, 74 00:05:43,480 --> 00:05:47,720 and it protects a very important route from the Western Isles 75 00:05:47,720 --> 00:05:52,200 to the Scottish mainland, and it's said to be the longest inhabited 76 00:05:52,200 --> 00:05:54,560 castle in the whole of Scotland. 77 00:06:02,280 --> 00:06:05,480 Fred, you get in and get yourself sorted. John will take the bow line. 78 00:06:05,480 --> 00:06:07,480 Pete's got the stern line. 79 00:06:07,480 --> 00:06:09,520 'The water here is too shallow for Rocket 80 00:06:09,520 --> 00:06:11,880 'so we are going over by dinghy.' 81 00:06:11,880 --> 00:06:14,120 Are you ready? I am. 82 00:06:14,120 --> 00:06:18,160 Ah. I tell you, I have fallen out of this dinghy before now. 83 00:06:18,160 --> 00:06:21,920 I don't intend to fall out this time. Lovely. 84 00:06:21,920 --> 00:06:24,800 Thank you very much. OK. 85 00:06:24,800 --> 00:06:27,240 Let's go. Thank you. 86 00:06:27,240 --> 00:06:28,960 See you in a bit. 87 00:06:37,880 --> 00:06:41,440 'Over 200 years ago, the Campbells sold Duntrune Castle 88 00:06:41,440 --> 00:06:45,040 'to another Highland clan, the Malcolms.' 89 00:06:47,840 --> 00:06:52,280 A little bit on your right. Now, I think we go in here. 90 00:06:52,280 --> 00:06:54,160 Yeah. That's it. It goes up there. 91 00:06:54,160 --> 00:06:56,400 'Robin, the chief of Clan Malcolm, 92 00:06:56,400 --> 00:07:00,040 'still lives here with his wife, Trish.' 93 00:07:00,040 --> 00:07:02,960 Hello. Welcome to Duntrune. 94 00:07:02,960 --> 00:07:06,000 Thank you very much indeed. Hello, David. How do you do? 95 00:07:06,000 --> 00:07:09,240 Nice to see you. What do I call you? Chief? Chieftain? 96 00:07:09,240 --> 00:07:11,720 Robin, please. Chief Malcolm. 97 00:07:11,720 --> 00:07:15,840 They don't do that in Scotland. In America, yes. 98 00:07:15,840 --> 00:07:20,200 This is wonderful. 800 years old. The ground floor. 99 00:07:20,200 --> 00:07:22,600 The bit above, 400 years old, 100 00:07:22,600 --> 00:07:26,200 and there is a bit round the back that's 200 years old. 101 00:07:26,200 --> 00:07:28,440 But it looks... 102 00:07:28,440 --> 00:07:31,520 It looks rather grim from the sea. Is it liveable in? 103 00:07:31,520 --> 00:07:33,760 It looks like a prison to me. 104 00:07:33,760 --> 00:07:37,240 Come and see. Come inside and we will show you. 105 00:07:37,240 --> 00:07:40,320 It's damp and it's draughty and it leaks like a sieve. 106 00:07:42,560 --> 00:07:45,040 The castle was built on this promontory 107 00:07:45,040 --> 00:07:47,880 to guard the trade route that passes through the loch 108 00:07:47,880 --> 00:07:51,720 from pirates, marauders and rival clans. 109 00:07:53,320 --> 00:07:56,720 Look, a courtyard. This is extraordinary. 110 00:07:56,720 --> 00:07:58,920 It doesn't look as large as this from outside. 111 00:07:58,920 --> 00:08:01,280 It's deceptive from the outside, isn't it? 112 00:08:01,280 --> 00:08:03,960 So, when do you think the last time it would have, 113 00:08:03,960 --> 00:08:05,960 so to speak, fired a shot in anger? 114 00:08:05,960 --> 00:08:08,560 Been really seriously used for the defence of the coast? 115 00:08:08,560 --> 00:08:12,640 Between 1560 and 1580. Right. 116 00:08:12,640 --> 00:08:15,760 That was when the Campbells and MacDonalds... 117 00:08:15,760 --> 00:08:18,760 MacDonalds were at their peak, I suppose, then. 118 00:08:19,760 --> 00:08:23,960 They were seen off by the Campbells and never tried again. 119 00:08:23,960 --> 00:08:27,000 But when were the first invasions in this case? Cos you have been... 120 00:08:27,000 --> 00:08:29,960 It has been permanently, it seems, under attack. 121 00:08:29,960 --> 00:08:34,440 Permanently at war with somebody. I don't think we were alone in that. 122 00:08:34,440 --> 00:08:37,840 The Vikings went about hitting Britain all around the coast. 123 00:08:37,840 --> 00:08:40,120 I'm a Viking myself. Yes. We are Vikings. 124 00:08:40,120 --> 00:08:42,160 The Dimblebys are Vikings. 125 00:08:42,160 --> 00:08:44,720 The Dimblebys are Vikings? Yes. From Lincolnshire. 126 00:08:44,720 --> 00:08:47,800 There is a village in Lincolnshire called Dembleby, where we come from. 127 00:08:47,800 --> 00:08:50,720 Oh, really? We pride ourselves on our Viking blood. 128 00:08:50,720 --> 00:08:54,680 So your lot would have attacked our lot. Rape and pillage is our forte! 129 00:08:54,680 --> 00:08:58,280 Anyway... Can we have a look inside? Please. Do. 130 00:08:58,280 --> 00:09:01,200 The castle is a family home now 131 00:09:01,200 --> 00:09:03,840 but there remain traces of its military past. 132 00:09:05,840 --> 00:09:09,680 You see, we are on the ground floor but you're looking down. Yes. 133 00:09:09,680 --> 00:09:12,520 But you are at the very bottom of the castle. Yes. 134 00:09:12,520 --> 00:09:14,640 We are looking right down. 135 00:09:14,640 --> 00:09:16,840 And there is this rubbish chute, 136 00:09:16,840 --> 00:09:20,560 where they chucked their rubbish out. Oh, yes. I see. 137 00:09:22,400 --> 00:09:24,960 Where are we going up to now? The main room. 138 00:09:24,960 --> 00:09:27,000 This is an original staircase. 139 00:09:27,000 --> 00:09:30,080 Yes. As far as we know. Probably. As far as we know, yes. 140 00:09:30,080 --> 00:09:32,000 Wow! 141 00:09:33,760 --> 00:09:37,200 This is lovely, isn't it? This is a great room. This is wonderful. 142 00:09:37,200 --> 00:09:39,720 What would this have been? It's described... 143 00:09:39,720 --> 00:09:41,720 400 years old, this bit? 144 00:09:41,720 --> 00:09:45,160 Yes, 400... 450, something like that. 145 00:09:45,160 --> 00:09:51,040 Described as the Great Hall in the old plans of the place. 146 00:09:53,200 --> 00:09:58,880 As a garrison castle, Duntrune would have been austerely furnished, 147 00:09:58,880 --> 00:10:02,360 but Trish is no fan of the austere. 148 00:10:05,240 --> 00:10:08,720 This is my private floor. Oh, my goodness! I don't believe it! 149 00:10:08,720 --> 00:10:13,360 This is crazy! Look. Look, a power shower in the castle! 150 00:10:15,120 --> 00:10:18,680 This is incredibly grand. It is brilliant. 151 00:10:18,680 --> 00:10:21,120 A huge bath! Well, Robin is large. 152 00:10:22,520 --> 00:10:26,160 When we first did it, this was all plastered over. 153 00:10:26,160 --> 00:10:29,680 We took the plaster off and then we found there was a huge stone 154 00:10:29,680 --> 00:10:32,920 up there that was being held up by dust 155 00:10:32,920 --> 00:10:36,160 and it was about to fall on my head any minute. I said, 156 00:10:36,160 --> 00:10:39,280 "I don't mind meeting my maker, but not with my knickers down!" 157 00:10:39,280 --> 00:10:41,320 THEY LAUGH 158 00:10:46,760 --> 00:10:51,120 An hour's walk across the glen from Duntrune, 159 00:10:51,120 --> 00:10:54,360 but 800 years further back in history, 160 00:10:54,360 --> 00:10:57,120 are the remains of a much earlier civilisation. 161 00:10:57,120 --> 00:11:02,960 I am at the heart of the ancient Gaelic kingdom of Dal Riata, 162 00:11:02,960 --> 00:11:08,080 the home of the people called Scotti, who gave Scotland its name. 163 00:11:13,240 --> 00:11:15,200 This is the top of Dunadd Fort. 164 00:11:15,200 --> 00:11:19,720 This was the headquarters, if you like, of the kings of Dal Riata. 165 00:11:19,720 --> 00:11:23,480 This is where they were crowned, this is where they had their seat. 166 00:11:23,480 --> 00:11:25,440 But they weren't isolated here. 167 00:11:25,440 --> 00:11:29,000 This great walled encampment actually traded 168 00:11:29,000 --> 00:11:33,840 with places as far away as France - 600AD, we're talking. 169 00:11:33,840 --> 00:11:38,920 There were traces found here of pots that contained wine and corn. 170 00:11:38,920 --> 00:11:42,200 There were precious metals, there were jewels. 171 00:11:42,200 --> 00:11:46,760 In other words, this place was not what it is now, an empty landscape. 172 00:11:46,760 --> 00:11:51,000 This was a thriving centre of industry at the time. 173 00:11:52,320 --> 00:11:55,200 Most of the evidence of that earlier prosperity 174 00:11:55,200 --> 00:11:57,240 has been claimed by nature. 175 00:11:58,560 --> 00:12:02,640 This is the kingdom of Dalriada as we know it today. 176 00:12:06,200 --> 00:12:08,000 Back on board Rocket, 177 00:12:08,000 --> 00:12:11,280 we're crossing the loch to the little harbour at Crinan. 178 00:12:12,800 --> 00:12:14,560 Where are you taking us to? 179 00:12:14,560 --> 00:12:18,040 I'm not sure. Get us to the hotel. I'll go wherever you want. 180 00:12:18,040 --> 00:12:20,480 Head towards Crinan, is a better way of putting it. 181 00:12:20,480 --> 00:12:23,240 Dad, I can't see when you're standing there. OK. 182 00:12:28,440 --> 00:12:31,600 We don't need to put the cover on the topsail, do we? No. 183 00:12:31,600 --> 00:12:35,240 'We are dropping anchor here and heading off for an early night.' 184 00:12:37,720 --> 00:12:40,520 Tomorrow, we are up against a man-made 185 00:12:40,520 --> 00:12:43,280 wonder of the landscape - the Crinan Canal. 186 00:13:00,680 --> 00:13:05,120 The Crinan Canal is a marvel of the industrial age. 187 00:13:05,120 --> 00:13:06,880 Only nine miles long, 188 00:13:06,880 --> 00:13:12,160 it cuts out a journey of 120 miles by sea around the Mull of Kintyre. 189 00:13:13,160 --> 00:13:17,400 It was opened in 1801 to carry trade from the Western Isles 190 00:13:17,400 --> 00:13:20,000 to the Clyde and Glasgow, 191 00:13:20,000 --> 00:13:24,120 a symbol of Scotland's prosperity at the beginning of the 19th century. 192 00:13:24,120 --> 00:13:29,080 It took 600 men eight years to build one of the most picturesque 193 00:13:29,080 --> 00:13:31,520 shortcuts in Britain. 194 00:13:31,520 --> 00:13:34,200 Like a staircase, it climbs up from Loch Crinan 195 00:13:34,200 --> 00:13:36,840 and then down again to Loch Fyne. 196 00:13:38,160 --> 00:13:41,880 Of the 15 lochs, all but two are operated by hand. 197 00:13:43,520 --> 00:13:45,400 Thanks. 198 00:13:52,080 --> 00:13:54,520 Wind it back. 199 00:13:55,640 --> 00:13:57,640 I don't know whether you can reach. 200 00:14:03,120 --> 00:14:05,480 Rocket's going on ahead 201 00:14:05,480 --> 00:14:07,920 but I'm travelling the first stretch of the canal 202 00:14:07,920 --> 00:14:12,880 in the way that it was designed to be travelled - by Clyde puffer. 203 00:14:15,480 --> 00:14:19,400 Hundreds of these steam cargo boats were working the Western Isles 204 00:14:19,400 --> 00:14:22,680 and used this canal in the 19th century. 205 00:14:22,680 --> 00:14:27,440 VIC 32 is the last working seagoing Clyde puffer. 206 00:14:27,440 --> 00:14:31,520 'Nick Walker has owned her for 35 years.' 207 00:14:31,520 --> 00:14:34,120 Hello. I mustn't shake hands with you because for some reason 208 00:14:34,120 --> 00:14:36,400 that I can't remember, you're not supposed to. 209 00:14:36,400 --> 00:14:38,920 Marine superstition that we will both be dead by nightfall 210 00:14:38,920 --> 00:14:40,760 if we shook hands over water. 211 00:14:40,760 --> 00:14:43,480 So either I come on to land or you come aboard. I will come on. 212 00:14:43,480 --> 00:14:46,640 You come on the boat and I can say hello, David. Thank you very much. 213 00:14:46,640 --> 00:14:49,160 How do you do? How do you do? 214 00:14:52,800 --> 00:14:56,000 The first Clyde puffer dates back to the 1850s, 215 00:14:56,000 --> 00:14:58,840 when sailing barges were converted 216 00:14:58,840 --> 00:15:01,920 to steam power, and had a wheelhouse added. 217 00:15:01,920 --> 00:15:04,400 They were the lorries of the sea lanes, 218 00:15:04,400 --> 00:15:07,600 carrying whisky from the west coast and islands of Scotland 219 00:15:07,600 --> 00:15:11,160 to Glasgow, and going back with coal and grain. 220 00:15:16,880 --> 00:15:20,120 Is this you coming up to my wheelhouse? Terrifying! 221 00:15:20,120 --> 00:15:24,880 This is the nerve centre. I will talk to you from here. That's fine. 222 00:15:24,880 --> 00:15:27,200 This is so narrow, I can't believe you can do this. 223 00:15:27,200 --> 00:15:30,840 This bit of the canal is absolutely fine for a sailing boat or yacht, 224 00:15:30,840 --> 00:15:35,040 no problems, but for a puffer with its 18-foot beam 225 00:15:35,040 --> 00:15:38,000 and 8 foot 6 draught, we struggle a bit. 226 00:15:39,320 --> 00:15:43,800 I like the idea that you are following a tradition of 200, 227 00:15:43,800 --> 00:15:46,280 300 years, really. Right. 228 00:15:46,280 --> 00:15:50,240 In making not this journey but making journeys around this area. 229 00:15:50,240 --> 00:15:53,240 Look at these cliffs, here. I know. Is this all blasted away? 230 00:15:53,240 --> 00:15:55,240 All blasted away by hand. Really? Yeah. 231 00:15:55,240 --> 00:15:57,640 Is that the highest bit of cliff? No, there's another. 232 00:15:57,640 --> 00:15:59,640 Another bit coming up, yeah. Why "puffer"? 233 00:15:59,640 --> 00:16:01,480 Where does the word come from? 234 00:16:01,480 --> 00:16:04,160 It's onomatopoeic. Puff, puff, puff, puff. 235 00:16:04,160 --> 00:16:06,680 But you're not making any sound at all. We don't puff. 236 00:16:06,680 --> 00:16:09,480 We condense the steam and make it back into hot water, 237 00:16:09,480 --> 00:16:12,760 but in the old days, the puffers - puff of steam, puff of smoke, 238 00:16:12,760 --> 00:16:14,600 puff of steam, puff of smoke. 239 00:16:14,600 --> 00:16:17,000 Apparently they used to blow smoke rings. 240 00:16:23,880 --> 00:16:27,440 Where do I go from here? Keep coming down, David. 241 00:16:27,440 --> 00:16:30,280 And then down one more? One more. 242 00:16:30,280 --> 00:16:35,080 'Narrow ladders lead deep down inside the puffer to the heart of the boat.' 243 00:16:35,080 --> 00:16:38,920 Look at this! This is like a Victorian steam engine. 244 00:16:38,920 --> 00:16:42,760 'Lyle Simpson understands the mysteries of the steam engine.' 245 00:16:43,760 --> 00:16:46,600 Even though the vessel was built in 1943, 246 00:16:46,600 --> 00:16:51,880 all the technology in here dates right back to about 1905. 247 00:16:51,880 --> 00:16:55,120 What have we got here? What is this? That's the boiler. 248 00:16:55,120 --> 00:17:00,000 Yup. That is the main ingredient of the boat. Where does coal go in? 249 00:17:00,000 --> 00:17:03,600 Just there in front of you, David. Is that hot? Yeah. 250 00:17:03,600 --> 00:17:06,840 If you just grab hold of the handle quickly and open the door... What? 251 00:17:06,840 --> 00:17:09,880 What? What? God Almighty! HE GROANS 252 00:17:12,200 --> 00:17:14,240 Oh, my God! 253 00:17:18,200 --> 00:17:20,400 Just like that? Just like that, yes. 254 00:17:22,360 --> 00:17:24,520 I won't put too much on. 255 00:17:26,920 --> 00:17:30,000 How often do you have to put more in? 256 00:17:30,000 --> 00:17:33,400 Running at this speed along the canal, 257 00:17:33,400 --> 00:17:37,400 it's probably only about every 15 minutes, or something like that. 258 00:17:51,200 --> 00:17:53,960 It's pure magic, sailing down this canal. 259 00:17:53,960 --> 00:17:57,640 This boat that barely fits, touching each bank from time to time 260 00:17:57,640 --> 00:17:59,760 and occasionally touching the bottom 261 00:17:59,760 --> 00:18:03,440 and yet gliding tranquilly down, the steam engine making no sound, 262 00:18:03,440 --> 00:18:07,600 just turning peacefully like that as it goes along. 263 00:18:07,600 --> 00:18:10,240 It's so narrow that you feel like you're like toothpaste 264 00:18:10,240 --> 00:18:13,800 being squeezed out of a tube and yet, on the other hand, 265 00:18:13,800 --> 00:18:17,920 this, of course, is the heart of the Industrial Revolution in Scotland. 266 00:18:17,920 --> 00:18:20,400 These boats backwards and forwards to the islands 267 00:18:20,400 --> 00:18:24,280 and across to the mainland, bringing industry and creating wealth 268 00:18:24,280 --> 00:18:26,640 and changing Scotland, in effect, 269 00:18:26,640 --> 00:18:29,080 from a country that was impoverished 270 00:18:29,080 --> 00:18:32,040 to one that began to experience proper prosperity. 271 00:18:34,960 --> 00:18:38,880 We are drawing in to the basin at Bellanoch to rejoin Rocket. 272 00:18:45,360 --> 00:18:48,200 One mile done, eight to go. 273 00:18:49,320 --> 00:18:53,120 The canal was designed by the Scottish engineer John Rennie, 274 00:18:53,120 --> 00:18:56,360 who also built London and Waterloo bridges on the Thames 275 00:18:56,360 --> 00:19:00,120 and many other canals, lochs and lighthouses. 276 00:19:00,120 --> 00:19:05,320 By the middle of the 19th century, apart from whisky and coal, 277 00:19:05,320 --> 00:19:11,160 it carried 2,000 cattle a year, 27,000 sheep and 33,000 passengers. 278 00:19:35,200 --> 00:19:38,320 The secret to going through a lock is to take it slowly 279 00:19:38,320 --> 00:19:40,000 and keep the boat straight, 280 00:19:40,000 --> 00:19:43,320 so that it can be moored snugly to the quayside far above. 281 00:19:43,320 --> 00:19:46,000 Here you are, Peter. 282 00:19:46,000 --> 00:19:47,480 Around there. 283 00:19:49,200 --> 00:19:51,240 We've got a little bunch, here. 284 00:19:55,240 --> 00:19:58,240 Oh, Fred! Fred, what happened there? 285 00:19:58,240 --> 00:20:00,680 You didn't throw it far enough. You didn't pass it to me! 286 00:20:00,680 --> 00:20:02,600 Excuse me! 287 00:20:02,600 --> 00:20:05,560 You're going to get it... You're going to get it wet this time. 288 00:20:05,560 --> 00:20:07,200 I usually expect my... 289 00:20:08,480 --> 00:20:10,200 He's a bit out today, isn't he? 290 00:20:20,680 --> 00:20:22,000 Opening the sluices. 291 00:20:26,120 --> 00:20:27,760 That's all right, looks fine. 292 00:20:33,080 --> 00:20:36,200 You OK there? Pete? 293 00:20:36,200 --> 00:20:38,480 Yes, good, yes. We're coming up nicely. 294 00:20:42,040 --> 00:20:44,480 So, what we've done now is, we are at lock number ten. 295 00:20:44,480 --> 00:20:48,200 We have come from 15, from the sea, right down there, at Crinan, 296 00:20:48,200 --> 00:20:51,760 we're coming up here and we're almost at the top of the hill. 297 00:20:51,760 --> 00:20:55,360 Got one more lock, and then it's downhill all the way, 298 00:20:55,360 --> 00:20:58,320 through new locks to the sea again on the other side. 299 00:21:10,480 --> 00:21:13,000 The most famous boat to use this canal, 300 00:21:13,000 --> 00:21:15,240 apart from Rocket of course, 301 00:21:15,240 --> 00:21:17,760 was a Royal barge called the Sunbeam, 302 00:21:17,760 --> 00:21:21,360 in which Queen Victoria travelled, in August 1847, 303 00:21:21,360 --> 00:21:25,240 the whole length of the canal on her journey around Scotland, 304 00:21:25,240 --> 00:21:28,400 the famous Royal Route she took that drew so much attention. 305 00:21:28,400 --> 00:21:31,880 And she said, as she watched the horses that drew her 306 00:21:31,880 --> 00:21:36,120 and the four men with them in scarlet uniforms, she said, 307 00:21:36,120 --> 00:21:40,800 "It was a very tranquil, beautiful journey looking at the scenery." 308 00:21:40,800 --> 00:21:45,280 But she did find all those locks a little bit tedious. 309 00:21:45,280 --> 00:21:48,160 Mind you, she didn't have to do the work we've had to do 310 00:21:48,160 --> 00:21:49,600 to get through them. 311 00:21:53,080 --> 00:21:56,560 It has taken us all day to get through the Crinan Canal 312 00:21:56,560 --> 00:21:59,120 and back out onto the open sea at Loch Fyne. 313 00:22:04,200 --> 00:22:08,520 It was Queen Victoria's love of Scotland, its lochs and its glens, 314 00:22:08,520 --> 00:22:12,320 that made it a fashionable destination for the English. 315 00:22:13,480 --> 00:22:17,080 They came here to admire the scenery, 316 00:22:17,080 --> 00:22:19,480 rugged and mysterious... 317 00:22:22,080 --> 00:22:25,680 ..an image exploited by many painters of the 19th century. 318 00:22:28,520 --> 00:22:31,280 But the first person to turn the drama of Scotland 319 00:22:31,280 --> 00:22:32,920 into popular romance 320 00:22:32,920 --> 00:22:36,400 was a now almost forgotten poet, James Macpherson. 321 00:22:40,000 --> 00:22:43,600 In 1761, he wrote an epic saga called Ossian, 322 00:22:43,600 --> 00:22:46,040 which became an international bestseller. 323 00:22:46,040 --> 00:22:50,480 Ossian tells the story of a mighty Gaelic warrior called Fingal, 324 00:22:50,480 --> 00:22:54,200 who overcame the giants and demons of the Highlands. 325 00:22:54,200 --> 00:22:57,280 Fingal was exactly the kind of hero to appeal 326 00:22:57,280 --> 00:23:01,480 to people who were looking for a powerful, primitive force, 327 00:23:01,480 --> 00:23:05,280 something that came from these wild Highlands of Scotland. 328 00:23:05,280 --> 00:23:09,480 He was described as "tall as a glittering rock". 329 00:23:09,480 --> 00:23:12,520 His spear like a "blasted pine". 330 00:23:12,520 --> 00:23:15,000 His shield like the "rising moon". 331 00:23:15,000 --> 00:23:20,320 And when he went into battle, his heel removed woods, 332 00:23:20,320 --> 00:23:24,080 rocks fell from their place, rivers changed their course. 333 00:23:24,080 --> 00:23:25,520 You can see the attraction. 334 00:23:25,520 --> 00:23:28,080 And he was read not just here in Scotland, 335 00:23:28,080 --> 00:23:30,520 but in England and throughout Europe, 336 00:23:30,520 --> 00:23:33,040 where the whole idea appealed to a different, 337 00:23:33,040 --> 00:23:36,920 romantic view of nature and of people. 338 00:23:38,240 --> 00:23:41,040 Interestingly, Napoleon Bonaparte 339 00:23:41,040 --> 00:23:45,320 always carried Ossian wherever he went. 340 00:23:45,320 --> 00:23:48,600 Indeed, he probably had it with him at the Battle of Waterloo. 341 00:23:54,840 --> 00:23:58,400 We are sailing down Scotland's longest sea loch to visit 342 00:23:58,400 --> 00:24:00,400 a famous herring port, 343 00:24:00,400 --> 00:24:02,880 the fishing village of Tarbert. 344 00:24:02,880 --> 00:24:06,960 They have been catching the fish here since the 9th century. 345 00:24:11,280 --> 00:24:15,400 Traditionally, teams of women gutted the catch on the quayside 346 00:24:15,400 --> 00:24:17,880 then skewered them on long poles 347 00:24:17,880 --> 00:24:21,680 to be hung in the smokehouse and turned into kippers, 348 00:24:21,680 --> 00:24:23,840 one of Scotland's great delicacies. 349 00:24:26,680 --> 00:24:30,200 Fishing has always been a very important industry for Scotland. 350 00:24:30,200 --> 00:24:33,040 In the Middle Ages, medieval times, it was helped 351 00:24:33,040 --> 00:24:36,920 because the Church banned the eating of meat on Wednesdays, 352 00:24:36,920 --> 00:24:40,400 Thursdays and Fridays, which of course boosted the industry. 353 00:24:40,400 --> 00:24:43,760 They also took tithes, the 10% of your income you had to 354 00:24:43,760 --> 00:24:47,120 pay to the Church in herrings. 355 00:24:47,120 --> 00:24:51,640 And you could even pay your rent in herrings. 356 00:24:51,640 --> 00:24:52,840 Try that today! 357 00:24:59,240 --> 00:25:03,160 'I'm heading out to sea from Tarbert with two local fishermen, 358 00:25:03,160 --> 00:25:05,640 'Ross McKay and Peter McLean.' 359 00:25:08,080 --> 00:25:12,640 Fishermen were idealised by painters in the 19th century, 360 00:25:12,640 --> 00:25:17,880 given the Victorian virtues of independence, honesty, hard work. 361 00:25:20,080 --> 00:25:24,040 They were seen to be in touch with nature, still heroically 362 00:25:24,040 --> 00:25:28,520 battling the elements, not slaves to the Industrial Revolution. 363 00:25:33,960 --> 00:25:37,560 A buoy marks where, a couple of days ago, Peter and Ross put out 364 00:25:37,560 --> 00:25:39,320 their baited baskets. 365 00:25:44,000 --> 00:25:48,120 Today, it's not herring they catch, but the shellfish langoustine, 366 00:25:48,120 --> 00:25:50,240 eaten in Britain as scampi. 367 00:25:51,760 --> 00:25:54,000 That's a big one, is it? Aye. 368 00:25:54,000 --> 00:25:56,120 But they're priced on size? Aye. 369 00:25:56,120 --> 00:25:59,280 So who decides that's a one - you or the guy who buys? 370 00:25:59,280 --> 00:26:01,520 It's me that decides, like. Right. 371 00:26:01,520 --> 00:26:05,400 'When caught, the langoustine are placed in separate compartments 372 00:26:05,400 --> 00:26:07,640 'so that they don't fight. 373 00:26:07,640 --> 00:26:11,040 'Then they will be exported live all the way to Spain. 374 00:26:12,240 --> 00:26:14,760 'Every year, 30,000 tonnes of langoustine 375 00:26:14,760 --> 00:26:18,240 'are caught in Scottish waters, worth £82 million.' 376 00:26:19,680 --> 00:26:23,360 You have a very quick eye for them. Aye, you do. Aye, you get that. 377 00:26:23,360 --> 00:26:27,280 You just know immediately what it is that you want and what you don't. 378 00:26:29,120 --> 00:26:33,000 Why do you throw those away? It's just squats. I don't keep them. 379 00:26:34,200 --> 00:26:36,320 I've eaten those in Glasgow. Aye. 380 00:26:36,320 --> 00:26:39,360 They have a little tiny scoop of flesh on the back. 381 00:26:39,360 --> 00:26:41,760 Squat lobsters, they're called. Squat lobster. 382 00:26:41,760 --> 00:26:44,080 They don't keep for transport, like. 383 00:26:44,080 --> 00:26:46,040 Strange animal. 384 00:26:46,040 --> 00:26:47,960 Anyway, he goes back? Aye. 385 00:26:47,960 --> 00:26:49,400 Aye. Goodbye. 386 00:26:53,960 --> 00:26:58,480 So what's the strangest thing you've ever caught? Probably a machine gun. 387 00:26:58,480 --> 00:27:02,200 A shooting gun? A machine gun. A machine gun?! Aye. 388 00:27:02,200 --> 00:27:05,240 A general-purpose MP60, I think it was. 389 00:27:05,240 --> 00:27:07,120 Did you get a reward? No. 390 00:27:07,120 --> 00:27:11,200 Nothing? We thought we might. Yeah, I thought you would get a reward. 391 00:27:11,200 --> 00:27:14,680 So you've caught a gun. What else have you caught? Any bodies? 392 00:27:14,680 --> 00:27:16,640 No, no. No, that's good. 393 00:27:16,640 --> 00:27:18,720 THEY LAUGH 394 00:27:18,720 --> 00:27:21,320 We're just going to lift and shoot them back again. 395 00:27:21,320 --> 00:27:23,640 You're going to shoot them back? Aye. OK. 396 00:27:25,640 --> 00:27:27,840 'Once today's catch has all been brought in, 397 00:27:27,840 --> 00:27:31,080 'the baskets are baited again and put back over the side.' 398 00:27:39,480 --> 00:27:42,000 Fishing and the fishing industry are so important 399 00:27:42,000 --> 00:27:45,520 that at the end of the First World War, in 1919, 400 00:27:45,520 --> 00:27:48,720 the Ministry of Reconstruction issued a proclamation. 401 00:27:48,720 --> 00:27:50,560 Peter, I want you to you hear this. 402 00:27:50,560 --> 00:27:54,160 "The inshore fisherman should be perpetuated at all costs, 403 00:27:54,160 --> 00:27:58,120 "for he comes nearer than any other type of man to embodying 404 00:27:58,120 --> 00:28:01,080 "those qualities of grit and self-reliance which 405 00:28:01,080 --> 00:28:03,720 "we all agree to be the greatest of national interests." 406 00:28:03,720 --> 00:28:05,440 Aye, well, there you go. There you go. 407 00:28:05,440 --> 00:28:07,680 I wouldn't have known that unless you told me. 408 00:28:07,680 --> 00:28:09,000 DAVID CHUCKLES 409 00:28:09,000 --> 00:28:13,240 "State neglect of his interests would weaken the race." Ah, well. 410 00:28:13,240 --> 00:28:15,080 You learn something new every day. 411 00:28:15,080 --> 00:28:18,280 Do you feel yourself... Do you feel that you come nearer than any other 412 00:28:18,280 --> 00:28:22,680 type of man to embodying qualities of grit and self-reliance? 413 00:28:22,680 --> 00:28:26,000 Well, you get hard days out there, right enough, so I suppose you do. 414 00:28:26,000 --> 00:28:29,200 And you can take on the world? Take on anything! 415 00:28:39,800 --> 00:28:42,360 Back aboard Rocket, we're leaving Tarbert. 416 00:28:45,800 --> 00:28:47,960 We're now sailing around the southern tip 417 00:28:47,960 --> 00:28:52,200 of the Isle of Bute on our way to its port of Rothesay. 418 00:28:53,840 --> 00:28:56,000 We seem to be making good progress, but according 419 00:28:56,000 --> 00:28:59,680 to my reading of our instruments, we're actually aground. 420 00:28:59,680 --> 00:29:00,920 So what's the...? 421 00:29:00,920 --> 00:29:02,920 'Some mistake, surely.' 422 00:29:02,920 --> 00:29:05,880 That's the 5.2 nautical miles, there. Oh, dear. 423 00:29:05,880 --> 00:29:08,120 Pete, you've gone on the rocks here. 424 00:29:08,120 --> 00:29:10,400 He is actually on the rocks. Sorry about that... 425 00:29:10,400 --> 00:29:12,440 We're going to have to start the... 426 00:29:12,440 --> 00:29:15,840 No, when I say... You are aground now, officially aground. 427 00:29:15,840 --> 00:29:19,920 There seems to be a sheep walking by, yeah. No, because look, Dad. 428 00:29:19,920 --> 00:29:24,360 One nautical mile is that. Yeah. And there's about that much space. 429 00:29:24,360 --> 00:29:27,840 So it's about a quarter of a nautical mile. 430 00:29:27,840 --> 00:29:32,080 We are officially aground in 48 metres here, so is that all right? 431 00:29:32,080 --> 00:29:33,320 I don't mind. 432 00:29:34,960 --> 00:29:37,760 We are approaching Rothesay on the Isle of Bute, 433 00:29:37,760 --> 00:29:42,160 the nearest island to Glasgow and an escape from the smoke of the city. 434 00:29:43,720 --> 00:29:47,080 Look at that house up there in the trees. Great thing. 435 00:29:47,080 --> 00:29:50,080 Looks like Agatha Christie... Looks like Greenway. 436 00:29:52,120 --> 00:29:55,520 These large houses were built as holiday homes by wealthy 437 00:29:55,520 --> 00:30:00,280 Glaswegians, who took the 90-minute boat trip "doon the watter" 438 00:30:00,280 --> 00:30:01,320 to get here. 439 00:30:03,520 --> 00:30:06,520 Most of the Isle of Bute has been owned by a single family 440 00:30:06,520 --> 00:30:09,840 for the past 700 years, and they erected on the island 441 00:30:09,840 --> 00:30:14,360 one of Scotland's biggest and most romantic houses... 442 00:30:14,360 --> 00:30:15,560 Mount Stuart. 443 00:30:18,480 --> 00:30:24,040 Built in 1880, it was the lifelong passion of the 3rd Marquess of Bute, 444 00:30:24,040 --> 00:30:26,600 John Patrick Crichton-Stuart. 445 00:30:41,760 --> 00:30:43,320 The richest man in Britain, 446 00:30:43,320 --> 00:30:46,480 the 3rd Marquess inherited a fortune 447 00:30:46,480 --> 00:30:50,320 made from the coalfields that powered the Industrial Revolution, 448 00:30:50,320 --> 00:30:53,680 and the building of dockyards that traded with the Empire. 449 00:31:04,320 --> 00:31:08,240 This is one of three libraries built here at Mount Stuart by John, 450 00:31:08,240 --> 00:31:09,680 the 3rd Marquess. 451 00:31:09,680 --> 00:31:11,840 He was an absolutely fascinating man. 452 00:31:11,840 --> 00:31:17,160 He spoke 21 different languages. He was very well-travelled. 453 00:31:17,160 --> 00:31:21,840 He was interested in religion, archaeology, astronomy 454 00:31:21,840 --> 00:31:25,480 and architecture. He helped people restore houses. 455 00:31:25,480 --> 00:31:27,360 He didn't just build this one. 456 00:31:27,360 --> 00:31:31,600 And it was because of the wealth that he inherited, huge wealth, 457 00:31:31,600 --> 00:31:34,240 that he was able to pursue these passions. 458 00:31:39,720 --> 00:31:46,880 Mount Stuart took 30 years to build and with 127 spectacular rooms, 459 00:31:46,880 --> 00:31:50,120 it cost over £50 million in today's money. 460 00:32:02,920 --> 00:32:06,760 One of the most expensive homes ever built in Scotland, it is 461 00:32:06,760 --> 00:32:09,000 a lavish display of wealth. 462 00:32:10,520 --> 00:32:15,640 80 foot high, this is the centre of the house, the Marble Hall. 463 00:32:17,000 --> 00:32:21,920 Gothic arches, looking like a cathedral. Indeed, was taken 464 00:32:21,920 --> 00:32:27,400 from the design of a cathedral. Italian marble in different colours. 465 00:32:27,400 --> 00:32:31,680 Wonderful ambers and greens and greys. And white. 466 00:32:32,720 --> 00:32:35,480 And the tops of the pillars, the capitals as they are called, 467 00:32:35,480 --> 00:32:39,680 are all of plants taken from Mount Stuart. 468 00:32:39,680 --> 00:32:44,080 For instance, there's seaweed from the seashore, roses 469 00:32:44,080 --> 00:32:45,600 and the Scottish thistle. 470 00:32:47,440 --> 00:32:54,480 And the ceiling, decorated with the position of the stars 471 00:32:54,480 --> 00:32:56,680 when they first designed this house. 472 00:32:56,680 --> 00:33:00,040 They went out, looked at the night sky, 473 00:33:00,040 --> 00:33:03,520 drew the position of the stars, and then reproduced them here. 474 00:33:05,600 --> 00:33:08,760 The Marquess was obsessed by his great project, 475 00:33:08,760 --> 00:33:11,560 and nothing escaped his eye. 476 00:33:11,560 --> 00:33:14,320 His attention to detail was astonishing, 477 00:33:14,320 --> 00:33:16,440 and his execution meticulous. 478 00:33:16,440 --> 00:33:19,240 Just look at these. These are the door hinges. 479 00:33:19,240 --> 00:33:22,120 You wouldn't normally see them, because when the door's closed, 480 00:33:22,120 --> 00:33:25,920 obviously, you can't. We have opened it. Look at this. 481 00:33:25,920 --> 00:33:28,560 Vine with bunches of grapes. 482 00:33:28,560 --> 00:33:30,880 And there is a reason for them. 483 00:33:30,880 --> 00:33:33,280 Over here... 484 00:33:33,280 --> 00:33:35,240 the motif is repeated again. 485 00:33:35,240 --> 00:33:40,160 The bell push, with bunches of grapes all round it. 486 00:33:42,120 --> 00:33:44,680 And the reason for the grapes was that this was 487 00:33:44,680 --> 00:33:48,120 the room for eating and drinking. The dining room. 488 00:33:51,520 --> 00:33:56,200 And he decided, because everyone else was eating, the little frieze 489 00:33:56,200 --> 00:34:00,960 of birds round the wooden panelling should be allowed to eat as well. 490 00:34:00,960 --> 00:34:02,560 Come and see this. 491 00:34:05,440 --> 00:34:09,400 There's a little bird here, look, about to eat a butterfly. 492 00:34:09,400 --> 00:34:12,960 There's a snail being eyed by this bird. 493 00:34:15,840 --> 00:34:18,680 Along here, look, there's a caterpillar who, 494 00:34:18,680 --> 00:34:22,480 for some reason, seems to have escaped. This bird hasn't noticed. 495 00:34:22,480 --> 00:34:25,840 And then right over here, look at his face. 496 00:34:25,840 --> 00:34:28,680 This bird looking down, about to snap up the fly. 497 00:34:30,240 --> 00:34:32,080 So everybody's feasting. 498 00:34:33,520 --> 00:34:35,960 Mount Stuart looks like it has been here 499 00:34:35,960 --> 00:34:39,600 since the Middle Ages with its Gothic arches and marble trimmings, 500 00:34:39,600 --> 00:34:44,080 but in reality, it was at the cutting edge of modernity. 501 00:34:44,080 --> 00:34:47,840 It was the first house in Scotland to be lit by electricity 502 00:34:47,840 --> 00:34:51,800 and one of the first in the world to have an indoor heated swimming pool. 503 00:34:54,320 --> 00:34:56,520 The Marchioness's bathroom is well worth a look. 504 00:34:56,520 --> 00:35:00,920 It had all the latest equipment. Fine marble fireplace, of course. 505 00:35:00,920 --> 00:35:05,240 This rather wonderful tap bends over and... 506 00:35:08,600 --> 00:35:10,240 A jet of water. 507 00:35:10,240 --> 00:35:16,600 And then there's a toilet there, oh, and here in the window, a bidet, 508 00:35:16,600 --> 00:35:19,360 with all these controls and a mahogany seat. 509 00:35:19,360 --> 00:35:21,040 What does this say? 510 00:35:21,040 --> 00:35:25,440 "Wave, douche, back shower, bottom shower." 511 00:35:25,440 --> 00:35:26,920 Let's try the bottom shower. 512 00:35:26,920 --> 00:35:28,600 Here we go. 513 00:35:28,600 --> 00:35:30,720 Oh, my goodness! Oops! 514 00:35:32,720 --> 00:35:35,400 That's the bottom shower! 515 00:35:35,400 --> 00:35:37,080 Help. 516 00:35:44,880 --> 00:35:47,520 Stand by to go about. Ready about. 517 00:35:57,360 --> 00:36:00,440 Leaving Rothesay and the Isle of Bute behind, we are 518 00:36:00,440 --> 00:36:04,520 now heading to the entrance of the River Clyde, Toward Point. 519 00:36:13,160 --> 00:36:17,840 Toward Lighthouse warns vessels of the promontory and hidden rocks. 520 00:36:20,440 --> 00:36:23,160 It guides them up the River Clyde. 521 00:36:23,160 --> 00:36:27,040 Built in 1812 by one of our greatest lighthouse builders, 522 00:36:27,040 --> 00:36:29,760 the Scottish engineer, Robert Stevenson. 523 00:36:35,880 --> 00:36:39,040 Lighthouses are a testament to Victorian engineering. 524 00:36:42,640 --> 00:36:44,400 But throughout the 19th century, 525 00:36:44,400 --> 00:36:47,680 they stood as a romantic image for artists. 526 00:36:49,360 --> 00:36:51,400 Not just elegant designs, 527 00:36:51,400 --> 00:36:54,960 but beacons symbolic of hope in the darkness. 528 00:36:56,120 --> 00:37:01,640 A guiding light and man's heroic struggle against nature and the sea. 529 00:37:05,120 --> 00:37:09,240 Painters such as Turner exploited the fear of shipwreck 530 00:37:09,240 --> 00:37:12,800 to evoke terror and stir the imagination. 531 00:37:14,520 --> 00:37:17,680 One of his most famous paintings is the Bell Rock Lighthouse 532 00:37:17,680 --> 00:37:22,600 off the east coast of Scotland, also designed by Stevenson. 533 00:37:24,760 --> 00:37:28,920 Stevenson's special genius was that he invented something called 534 00:37:28,920 --> 00:37:33,200 shuttering, the automatic opening and closing of the light, 535 00:37:33,200 --> 00:37:36,240 so that he could time the flashes that came from it. 536 00:37:36,240 --> 00:37:40,720 This one, for instance, flashes once every ten seconds. 537 00:37:40,720 --> 00:37:43,000 Other lighthouses will have different paces - 538 00:37:43,000 --> 00:37:45,520 once every three seconds, once every seven. 539 00:37:45,520 --> 00:37:48,200 So, when you are at sea, you can look at the chart 540 00:37:48,200 --> 00:37:51,680 and identify which lighthouse you are looking at and, therefore, 541 00:37:51,680 --> 00:37:55,400 what danger it is you are to avoid and where you are on the ocean. 542 00:37:57,480 --> 00:38:00,520 Robert Stevenson created a kind of family dynasty 543 00:38:00,520 --> 00:38:02,080 of lighthouse builders. 544 00:38:02,080 --> 00:38:06,400 His three sons all became lighthouse builders. 545 00:38:06,400 --> 00:38:10,040 The only disappointment to the family was his grandson. 546 00:38:10,040 --> 00:38:13,880 He was called Robert Louis Stevenson and he was a famous writer. 547 00:38:13,880 --> 00:38:17,080 He wrote Kidnapped and Treasure Island. 548 00:38:17,080 --> 00:38:20,720 But he, too, was very proud of what the family had achieved. 549 00:38:20,720 --> 00:38:25,400 He once wrote, "When the lights come out along the shores of Scotland, 550 00:38:25,400 --> 00:38:29,800 "I like to think they shine more brightly because of their genius." 551 00:38:32,960 --> 00:38:35,600 We're now entering the mouth of the River Clyde, 552 00:38:35,600 --> 00:38:40,200 one of our greatest rivers, heading for James Watt Dock in Greenock. 553 00:38:46,800 --> 00:38:49,960 Quite by chance, we have come alongside the Waverley, 554 00:38:49,960 --> 00:38:51,440 the paddle steamer. 555 00:38:51,440 --> 00:38:54,720 Able to carry nearly 1,000 passengers, 556 00:38:54,720 --> 00:38:57,640 she is one of the last seagoing paddle steamers. 557 00:38:58,880 --> 00:39:01,200 Very pretty sight, isn't it? 558 00:39:06,280 --> 00:39:11,240 This line of red buoys marks a superhighway of the sea. 559 00:39:11,240 --> 00:39:14,840 You wouldn't think it today, looking at this empty expanse of water, 560 00:39:14,840 --> 00:39:17,640 but of all the seaways we have travelled in Scotland, 561 00:39:17,640 --> 00:39:20,720 this was by far and away the most important. 562 00:39:20,720 --> 00:39:25,280 This is where all the trade came up to Glasgow, bringing wealth 563 00:39:25,280 --> 00:39:29,480 to that city and making it the second city of the Empire. 564 00:39:32,080 --> 00:39:35,920 From the 18th century, ships laden with sugar, 565 00:39:35,920 --> 00:39:40,120 cotton and tobacco came here from the Americas. 566 00:39:40,120 --> 00:39:42,560 It was the shortest sea route. 567 00:39:42,560 --> 00:39:46,040 Bringing goods into Glasgow instead of London cut up to 568 00:39:46,040 --> 00:39:49,440 three weeks off the journey time, a very big saving. 569 00:39:51,160 --> 00:39:55,520 By the second half of the 19th century, heavy industry took over. 570 00:39:55,520 --> 00:39:57,560 A quarter of the world's locomotives 571 00:39:57,560 --> 00:40:01,120 and a fifth of the world's ships were built on the Clyde. 572 00:40:05,480 --> 00:40:09,400 In the 19th century, this southern side of the Clyde would have 573 00:40:09,400 --> 00:40:14,040 been all docks and shipyards where now it's just infill. 574 00:40:14,040 --> 00:40:17,400 And this scene was immortalised by the Victorian painter 575 00:40:17,400 --> 00:40:22,040 John Atkinson Grimshaw, painting the scene here at Gourock. 576 00:40:24,040 --> 00:40:27,760 Grimshaw made a profitable business out of painting romantic 577 00:40:27,760 --> 00:40:31,640 images of the thriving ports all along the Clyde, 578 00:40:31,640 --> 00:40:34,880 a far cry from the grim, industrial reality. 579 00:40:36,320 --> 00:40:38,320 A fellow artist said, 580 00:40:38,320 --> 00:40:41,520 "And when the evening mist clothes the riverside with poetry, 581 00:40:41,520 --> 00:40:43,520 "as with a veil, 582 00:40:43,520 --> 00:40:47,440 "and the poor buildings lose themselves in the dim sky, 583 00:40:47,440 --> 00:40:53,560 "the whole city hangs in the heavens and fairyland is before us." 584 00:40:57,320 --> 00:41:01,920 Today, the James Watt Dock has relaunched itself as a marina, 585 00:41:01,920 --> 00:41:04,560 though it can never recapture its glory days 586 00:41:04,560 --> 00:41:08,120 when it was the most accessible port for the largest ships. 587 00:41:11,360 --> 00:41:13,920 The Glasgow merchants were using bigger 588 00:41:13,920 --> 00:41:17,200 and bigger ships to bring goods from America to Scotland, 589 00:41:17,200 --> 00:41:19,000 but they couldn't get right up the river. 590 00:41:19,000 --> 00:41:23,160 Here, at Greenock, they invested their money in building this 591 00:41:23,160 --> 00:41:26,520 magnificent dock, the James Watt Dock, 592 00:41:26,520 --> 00:41:30,440 and building warehouses behind, all for the sugar trade. 593 00:41:30,440 --> 00:41:32,960 These are known as the Sugar Sheds. 594 00:41:32,960 --> 00:41:35,400 It was so successful that in no time, 595 00:41:35,400 --> 00:41:39,640 400 ships a year were stopping here in Greenock. 596 00:41:41,960 --> 00:41:46,400 These sugar sheds date from 1886. 597 00:41:46,400 --> 00:41:50,760 By then, a quarter of Britain's sugar was being processed here, 598 00:41:50,760 --> 00:41:52,480 in 12 sugar refineries. 599 00:41:53,680 --> 00:41:56,320 It's an industry that continued in Greenock all the way 600 00:41:56,320 --> 00:41:58,440 up to the very end of the 20th century. 601 00:41:59,920 --> 00:42:05,040 It was the Act of Union in 1707 that changed Scotland's prosperity. 602 00:42:05,040 --> 00:42:08,120 It allowed free trade with the British Empire 603 00:42:08,120 --> 00:42:11,440 and, in particular, with the English colonies in America. 604 00:42:11,440 --> 00:42:13,520 And it wasn't just sugar. 605 00:42:13,520 --> 00:42:17,960 By 1750, more tobacco was coming up the Clyde than into all 606 00:42:17,960 --> 00:42:19,600 the English ports combined. 607 00:42:20,600 --> 00:42:23,240 It created huge wealth. 608 00:42:23,240 --> 00:42:25,840 The Tobacco Lords, as the merchants were known, 609 00:42:25,840 --> 00:42:30,280 lived like aristocrats, even had streets named after them. 610 00:42:34,680 --> 00:42:38,200 In the 18th century, most of the tobacco was turned into snuff, 611 00:42:38,200 --> 00:42:40,480 it wasn't smoked as cigars or pipe 612 00:42:40,480 --> 00:42:42,640 or, indeed, cigarettes, 613 00:42:42,640 --> 00:42:46,520 and it led to a great etiquette for taking snuff, 614 00:42:46,520 --> 00:42:50,080 which concentrated primarily on the snuffbox. 615 00:42:51,280 --> 00:42:54,760 This one, for instance, a particularly good example, with 616 00:42:54,760 --> 00:43:01,040 a tortoiseshell surround and then in the centre, a portrait of George I. 617 00:43:01,040 --> 00:43:03,360 It's the kind of thing a Glasgow merchant 618 00:43:03,360 --> 00:43:05,200 might well have carried to show 619 00:43:05,200 --> 00:43:07,000 his loyalty to the Crown. 620 00:43:07,000 --> 00:43:10,520 This is quite interesting. This is...slightly later. 621 00:43:10,520 --> 00:43:12,880 That's where the snuff goes. 622 00:43:12,880 --> 00:43:14,840 And then, at the back, 623 00:43:14,840 --> 00:43:18,560 there's a little trap that opens for a snuff spoon. 624 00:43:18,560 --> 00:43:21,880 Women took snuff as well as men, and sometimes they, 625 00:43:21,880 --> 00:43:24,560 so they didn't get their fingers dirty, 626 00:43:24,560 --> 00:43:28,800 just took it in a tiny silver spoon and sniffed it, like that. 627 00:43:28,800 --> 00:43:32,760 And this one, now, this is a very pretty one. 628 00:43:32,760 --> 00:43:39,000 Inlaid, it's silver with a stone of moss agate set in it. 629 00:43:39,000 --> 00:43:41,000 When you hold it up to the light, 630 00:43:41,000 --> 00:43:44,600 you can see these wonderful swirls of green. 631 00:43:44,600 --> 00:43:48,240 And as it has got some snuff in it, I will take some. 632 00:43:48,240 --> 00:43:51,920 Schoolchildren did this because the school rules banned smoking, 633 00:43:51,920 --> 00:43:53,720 but they forgot to mention snuff. 634 00:43:53,720 --> 00:43:57,280 I remember taking it as a schoolboy occasionally. 635 00:43:57,280 --> 00:44:00,400 It used to make me sneeze. This is how you take it. 636 00:44:00,400 --> 00:44:03,200 One way is just putting a little bit in the corner, like that. 637 00:44:04,960 --> 00:44:06,200 Sniffing not too hard 638 00:44:06,200 --> 00:44:09,200 so it doesn't go right up to the back of your nostrils. 639 00:44:09,200 --> 00:44:11,280 Or you can just sniff it like this. 640 00:44:13,080 --> 00:44:17,040 And it's the sign of an amateur if you sneeze. 641 00:44:17,040 --> 00:44:19,600 Shows you have taken too much snuff. 642 00:44:19,600 --> 00:44:22,320 I've got a handkerchief with me, just in case. 643 00:44:22,320 --> 00:44:24,440 INHALES SHARPLY 644 00:44:24,440 --> 00:44:26,160 No, I think I'm all right. 645 00:44:26,160 --> 00:44:28,480 It's very delicious. 646 00:44:30,080 --> 00:44:31,120 Lovely. 647 00:44:32,800 --> 00:44:36,680 A couple of miles upriver, and once at the heart of the Clyde's 648 00:44:36,680 --> 00:44:40,520 great shipbuilding industry, is Port Glasgow. 649 00:44:43,880 --> 00:44:47,320 Ships have been built along the Clyde for hundreds of years, 650 00:44:47,320 --> 00:44:51,040 and in the 1950s, the industry was still booming. 651 00:44:57,480 --> 00:45:01,440 At its height, there were 35 shipyards along the Clyde, 652 00:45:01,440 --> 00:45:03,720 employing more than 100,000 men. 653 00:45:10,080 --> 00:45:13,560 More than two-thirds of Britain's iron steamships 654 00:45:13,560 --> 00:45:15,160 were launched from here. 655 00:45:38,360 --> 00:45:41,560 Today, there is only one commercial shipyard 656 00:45:41,560 --> 00:45:43,480 still working on the lower Clyde. 657 00:45:45,320 --> 00:45:49,720 It's built over 300 ships in its 110-year history. 658 00:45:49,720 --> 00:45:53,800 Today, there are only two small ferries under construction, 659 00:45:53,800 --> 00:45:56,520 but they both employ pioneering technology 660 00:45:56,520 --> 00:45:59,560 powered by a diesel-electric engine. 661 00:46:01,520 --> 00:46:04,080 'I asked Andrew Miller and Craig Osborne, 662 00:46:04,080 --> 00:46:07,680 'engineers at Ferguson's, how the future looks.' 663 00:46:07,680 --> 00:46:10,960 It's a bit quieter now. We don't build many ships on the Clyde. 664 00:46:10,960 --> 00:46:14,800 These two hybrid ferries we're building is the first ships 665 00:46:14,800 --> 00:46:16,960 we've built for a few years. 666 00:46:16,960 --> 00:46:19,480 And hopefully more to come. 667 00:46:19,480 --> 00:46:21,880 Why did it go downhill? 668 00:46:21,880 --> 00:46:25,480 Um, I think just a downturn in shipbuilding in general. 669 00:46:25,480 --> 00:46:29,040 You've got other places like Korea, China and all that. 670 00:46:29,040 --> 00:46:31,880 They're just building them probably cheaper 671 00:46:31,880 --> 00:46:33,840 and faster than what we can now. 672 00:46:33,840 --> 00:46:35,840 They learned all their skills from... 673 00:46:35,840 --> 00:46:38,120 A lot of them learned the skills from the Clyde. 674 00:46:38,120 --> 00:46:41,120 We taught them what to do and now they've turned it back on us. 675 00:46:41,120 --> 00:46:43,720 Do you think there's something special about this 676 00:46:43,720 --> 00:46:46,840 part of Scotland that made people good at engineering? 677 00:46:46,840 --> 00:46:50,520 Because that old joke about, you know, I can't remember what it was, 678 00:46:50,520 --> 00:46:53,560 you put your head down the engine room and shout... Jock. 679 00:46:53,560 --> 00:46:55,280 Jock, that was it, yes. 680 00:46:55,280 --> 00:46:58,200 You shout "Jock" and the chief engineer will come up. Yeah. 681 00:46:58,200 --> 00:47:00,440 Do you think the spirit was different, 682 00:47:00,440 --> 00:47:02,760 the kind of mood of the place was different? 683 00:47:02,760 --> 00:47:06,280 I think, in shipyards, you've always what they call the shipyard banter. 684 00:47:06,280 --> 00:47:09,240 And it's what the guys use to get through the day. 685 00:47:09,240 --> 00:47:12,320 One of your most famous comedians, Billy Connolly, who was a welder, 686 00:47:12,320 --> 00:47:13,600 that's how he made it, 687 00:47:13,600 --> 00:47:16,320 because he had all the funny stories from the shipyards. 688 00:47:16,320 --> 00:47:18,640 There's not a day goes by that you don't come in 689 00:47:18,640 --> 00:47:20,800 and have a belly laugh at work. 690 00:47:20,800 --> 00:47:23,480 You always have a day where... It's always funny. 691 00:47:23,480 --> 00:47:25,640 What's today's funny story? 692 00:47:25,640 --> 00:47:28,040 David Dimbleby's coming to the yard! 693 00:47:28,040 --> 00:47:29,960 THEY LAUGH 694 00:47:34,200 --> 00:47:37,920 During both World Wars, the work here on the Clyde was vital. 695 00:47:40,000 --> 00:47:43,320 In 1940, to boost national morale, 696 00:47:43,320 --> 00:47:46,440 the Ministry of Information commissioned the artist 697 00:47:46,440 --> 00:47:50,760 Stanley Spencer to celebrate the skills of the shipbuilders. 698 00:47:53,680 --> 00:47:57,080 This scene shows the burners, as they were called, 699 00:47:57,080 --> 00:48:01,120 cutting sheets of metal with oxyacetylene cutters, 700 00:48:01,120 --> 00:48:04,560 and making all kinds of different shapes that will form 701 00:48:04,560 --> 00:48:07,000 the hull of the ship when it is finished. 702 00:48:07,000 --> 00:48:09,840 All of them very focused, 703 00:48:09,840 --> 00:48:13,680 not talking to each other, not acknowledging each other, 704 00:48:13,680 --> 00:48:17,400 but absolutely concentrated on this very complex work of just 705 00:48:17,400 --> 00:48:19,200 cutting exactly down the line. 706 00:48:21,080 --> 00:48:23,680 They don't wear hard hats or any protective clothes 707 00:48:23,680 --> 00:48:25,640 except leather gloves. 708 00:48:25,640 --> 00:48:28,880 There is one person who seems to have exhausted himself, 709 00:48:28,880 --> 00:48:31,160 a young boy, mopping his brow. 710 00:48:31,160 --> 00:48:33,600 He's taken his cap off, his goggles, 711 00:48:33,600 --> 00:48:38,000 he's just exhausted, sitting on the plate that he's cutting. 712 00:48:38,000 --> 00:48:41,640 There's something almost spiritual, mystical, 713 00:48:41,640 --> 00:48:45,040 about the way Spencer paints these people, 714 00:48:45,040 --> 00:48:49,680 partly because the light all comes from the torches they're working on, 715 00:48:49,680 --> 00:48:54,080 so they're all lit like angels would be lit 716 00:48:54,080 --> 00:48:57,680 from some mysterious spiritual glow. 717 00:48:59,440 --> 00:49:02,800 And then, down here, we come down here, 718 00:49:02,800 --> 00:49:05,800 the railway lines that were laid through the docks. 719 00:49:05,800 --> 00:49:08,560 Somebody working on the rails here. 720 00:49:08,560 --> 00:49:15,120 And then, one, two, three people hauling a trolley of steel bars. 721 00:49:15,120 --> 00:49:21,160 And then, finally, at the end, the ship itself takes shape. 722 00:49:21,160 --> 00:49:24,440 The ribs of steel all delicately 723 00:49:24,440 --> 00:49:28,600 and rather fantastically painted in different colours. 724 00:49:28,600 --> 00:49:32,560 When the ship's completed, the wooden props will be knocked away 725 00:49:32,560 --> 00:49:36,320 and the ship will slide down into the Clyde. 726 00:49:36,320 --> 00:49:39,760 You just see this little glimpse of landscape here, a little breath of 727 00:49:39,760 --> 00:49:43,080 fresh air after the claustrophobia of the working in the shipyard. 728 00:49:43,080 --> 00:49:46,880 Here, the River Clyde, and above, the green hills. 729 00:49:54,680 --> 00:49:57,920 Leaving Port Glasgow, we're travelling upriver to 730 00:49:57,920 --> 00:50:03,320 one of the most historic sites on the Clyde, Dumbarton. 731 00:50:11,600 --> 00:50:15,200 In the 1800s, this part of the Clyde was regularly dredged 732 00:50:15,200 --> 00:50:17,200 so they could get trading ships up. 733 00:50:17,200 --> 00:50:20,680 In fact, they still dredge it every year now. 734 00:50:20,680 --> 00:50:22,960 But one of the advantages of this was not just 735 00:50:22,960 --> 00:50:26,640 that the ships could go upriver, but they could build ships upriver too. 736 00:50:26,640 --> 00:50:31,720 In fact, in the years before the First World War, almost half the 737 00:50:31,720 --> 00:50:36,760 tonnage of ships built in the world were built here on the River Clyde. 738 00:50:39,080 --> 00:50:42,400 And one of the largest yards was just under here, 739 00:50:42,400 --> 00:50:44,760 under Dumbarton Castle at Denny's. 740 00:50:52,120 --> 00:50:55,080 Little remains of Denny's today, 741 00:50:55,080 --> 00:50:58,360 but artists and photographers show us what it was like 742 00:50:58,360 --> 00:51:01,200 during its heyday towards the end of the 19th century. 743 00:51:09,040 --> 00:51:13,440 The Maritime Museum keeps the memory of Denny's alive. 744 00:51:13,440 --> 00:51:17,280 They built the first steamship to cross the English Channel 745 00:51:17,280 --> 00:51:20,000 and the first all-steel merchant ship. 746 00:51:20,000 --> 00:51:22,960 Their technicians were among the finest in the world. 747 00:51:24,120 --> 00:51:26,680 One of the key members of a shipbuilding team was 748 00:51:26,680 --> 00:51:32,200 the draughtsman, who put on paper the lines proposed for the ship. 749 00:51:32,200 --> 00:51:34,920 It looks easy enough to draw the shape of the cabins 750 00:51:34,920 --> 00:51:37,040 and, you know, the layout and all that, 751 00:51:37,040 --> 00:51:39,920 but what really mattered was to get the underwater shape 752 00:51:39,920 --> 00:51:44,120 so that the hull that had been chosen for efficiency and speed 753 00:51:44,120 --> 00:51:48,240 could be interpreted by the shipbuilders from the drawings. 754 00:51:48,240 --> 00:51:50,560 And these are drawings done by David Kirkcaldy, 755 00:51:50,560 --> 00:51:53,240 one of the finest draughtsmen of the era. 756 00:51:55,200 --> 00:51:59,680 These are the drawings of a paddle steamer called the Persia. 757 00:51:59,680 --> 00:52:03,360 After her launch, the Persia set the record for crossing 758 00:52:03,360 --> 00:52:06,840 the Atlantic, the Blue Riband, in 1856, 759 00:52:06,840 --> 00:52:09,040 a record she held for several years, 760 00:52:09,040 --> 00:52:13,520 crossing at an average speed of just over 13 knots, just over 15mph. 761 00:52:15,160 --> 00:52:19,200 These are immaculately detailed drawings, and beautifully painted. 762 00:52:21,880 --> 00:52:24,960 A cross-section of the ship from the bow there right through 763 00:52:24,960 --> 00:52:26,360 the engine room... 764 00:52:27,800 --> 00:52:29,640 ..and back to the stern. 765 00:52:29,640 --> 00:52:33,160 And then all the passenger cabins all along here. 766 00:52:42,920 --> 00:52:45,480 The drawings of the Persia that David Kirkcaldy did 767 00:52:45,480 --> 00:52:47,800 were done after she had been built. 768 00:52:47,800 --> 00:52:51,000 They were designed to illustrate the work of a draughtsman. 769 00:52:51,000 --> 00:52:54,360 And they were so good, apart from being exhibited in Paris 770 00:52:54,360 --> 00:52:57,920 and at the Royal Academy, he won this medal for them, awarded 771 00:52:57,920 --> 00:53:01,640 "for a correct and beautifully executed drawing of the Persia". 772 00:53:01,640 --> 00:53:05,120 And the Maritime Museum has his notebooks that were 773 00:53:05,120 --> 00:53:06,720 done at the time. 774 00:53:06,720 --> 00:53:10,520 Meticulous drawings of every little detail of the boat. 775 00:53:11,800 --> 00:53:13,400 With all the measurements... 776 00:53:14,760 --> 00:53:16,520 ..done in ink. 777 00:53:16,520 --> 00:53:20,760 This work, spread over three-and-a-half years. 778 00:53:20,760 --> 00:53:23,480 And here are all the cabins. 779 00:53:23,480 --> 00:53:26,960 And the numbers of the cabins. You can see everything. 780 00:53:26,960 --> 00:53:31,800 The kind of mind that is needed to do this sort of work is 781 00:53:31,800 --> 00:53:37,520 obviously extremely meticulous and disciplined. 782 00:53:37,520 --> 00:53:39,680 And he was so disciplined 783 00:53:39,680 --> 00:53:44,440 that he kept this notebook of the hours that it had taken. 784 00:53:44,440 --> 00:53:47,600 "Started in January 1857. 785 00:53:47,600 --> 00:53:51,320 "Finished in July 1860. 786 00:53:51,320 --> 00:53:56,920 "Pencilling, 275-and-a-quarter hours. 787 00:53:56,920 --> 00:54:00,280 "Inking, 292-and-three-quarter hours. 788 00:54:00,280 --> 00:54:04,360 "Colouring, 643-and-a-quarter hours. 789 00:54:04,360 --> 00:54:09,480 "Total, 1,213-and-a-quarter hours." 790 00:54:15,320 --> 00:54:16,880 Model-making, too, 791 00:54:16,880 --> 00:54:20,680 occupied thousands of man-hours in the industry. 792 00:54:20,680 --> 00:54:25,840 It was elevated to an art, with no detail too small. 793 00:54:27,480 --> 00:54:31,240 The model of a newly finished commission was a calling card 794 00:54:31,240 --> 00:54:32,840 for the next. 795 00:54:35,280 --> 00:54:39,520 This is a model of the passenger and cargo ship Baccalieu, 796 00:54:39,520 --> 00:54:42,920 which was built by Ferguson's on the Clyde 797 00:54:42,920 --> 00:54:46,880 and launched in 1940 to go to St John's, Newfoundland. 798 00:54:46,880 --> 00:54:49,720 And it is... It is an exquisite model. 799 00:54:49,720 --> 00:54:53,160 I mean, starting at the bow, you have got the windlass. 800 00:54:53,160 --> 00:54:55,520 Then, coming back, you've got... 801 00:54:55,520 --> 00:54:58,640 Oh, up here, there's the binnacle, the compass. 802 00:54:58,640 --> 00:55:01,720 Then on the bridge itself, the telegraph to signal to the 803 00:55:01,720 --> 00:55:05,720 engine room "full ahead" or "slower stern", or whatever it is. 804 00:55:05,720 --> 00:55:10,920 Lifeboats in their davits with their block and tackle, 805 00:55:10,920 --> 00:55:12,240 ready to lower them. 806 00:55:12,240 --> 00:55:14,360 And coming back, the masts, of course, 807 00:55:14,360 --> 00:55:17,040 everything absolutely perfectly modelled. 808 00:55:17,040 --> 00:55:19,760 And at the very back here in the stern, 809 00:55:19,760 --> 00:55:23,720 the emergency steering wheel and even a rope, neatly coiled. 810 00:55:30,280 --> 00:55:31,760 It's a beautiful model. 811 00:55:31,760 --> 00:55:34,360 I've always stopped and paused 812 00:55:34,360 --> 00:55:36,840 and looked in the windows of the shipping lines that have 813 00:55:36,840 --> 00:55:42,040 these on display, because I drool over the thought of going 814 00:55:42,040 --> 00:55:47,120 to the tropical islands or across the Atlantic or across the Pacific. 815 00:55:48,800 --> 00:55:52,600 Without the cost and discomfort of actually going to sea, 816 00:55:52,600 --> 00:55:55,960 this model just takes you there. 817 00:56:04,800 --> 00:56:07,280 We're now on the last leg of our journey, 818 00:56:07,280 --> 00:56:12,320 motoring up the Clyde to our final destination, Glasgow. 819 00:56:21,240 --> 00:56:26,880 The river is narrowing to 200 metres, and it is eerily quiet. 820 00:56:26,880 --> 00:56:30,280 Not quite how it would have been 100 years ago. 821 00:56:30,280 --> 00:56:35,320 The boom years on the river may yet return but, sadly, not quite yet. 822 00:56:42,440 --> 00:56:43,880 Ahead of us, though, 823 00:56:43,880 --> 00:56:49,480 is a symbol of Scottish prosperity at its height - the Glenlee, 824 00:56:49,480 --> 00:56:53,120 built here on the Clyde in 1896. 825 00:56:53,120 --> 00:56:58,000 She spent 23 years carrying cargo between Glasgow, Liverpool, 826 00:56:58,000 --> 00:57:00,280 Australia and South Africa. 827 00:57:02,920 --> 00:57:04,920 Our journey is almost done. 828 00:57:04,920 --> 00:57:07,960 We're mooring up on the outskirts of Glasgow. 829 00:57:07,960 --> 00:57:11,760 The splendours of the city lie just upriver, 830 00:57:11,760 --> 00:57:15,920 a city that proclaims the wealth of the nation. 831 00:57:15,920 --> 00:57:18,080 CHATTERING 832 00:57:30,840 --> 00:57:32,560 From the earliest times, 833 00:57:32,560 --> 00:57:36,920 Scotland prospered by mastering the sea, first close to home, 834 00:57:36,920 --> 00:57:41,280 then trading with the wider world, with the Americas, with the Empire. 835 00:57:41,280 --> 00:57:46,120 And it was this commercial triumph that inspired this great city, 836 00:57:46,120 --> 00:57:48,520 built on a heroic scale, 837 00:57:48,520 --> 00:57:52,800 justifying its claim to be the second city of Empire. 838 00:57:52,800 --> 00:57:58,280 This truly is a country that rose from the sea. 839 00:58:21,880 --> 00:58:25,560 I'm sailing along the coast of East Anglia to see 840 00:58:25,560 --> 00:58:31,480 how our view of the sea changed to a place for pleasure and escape. 841 00:58:31,480 --> 00:58:34,840 I'll explore how a day out at the seaside became 842 00:58:34,840 --> 00:58:37,720 an irresistible subject for artists... 843 00:58:37,720 --> 00:58:39,320 I'm stopping now. 844 00:58:39,320 --> 00:58:40,840 ..artists of all kinds... 845 00:58:40,840 --> 00:58:44,120 She looks like one of those pilots, you know. Argh! 846 00:58:44,120 --> 00:58:50,000 ..and how it created a world that was and remains uniquely British. 847 00:58:51,800 --> 00:58:53,840 PEOPLE YELL Agh! 848 00:58:55,000 --> 00:58:57,040 Here's to the British seaside. 849 00:59:00,240 --> 00:59:03,400 Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd