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Britain is crisscrossed by an
amazing network of

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ancient trackways.

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These remarkable routes are our
oldest roads and have been travelled

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for more than 5,000 years.

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He's quite small, isn't he?

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He is small but he's mighty.
Small but mighty,

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I like that.

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Walked by pilgrims and traders,
hunters and invaders,

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Celts and Romans,
Saxons and Vikings,

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each track is bound up in myth,
mystery and legend.

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Of all the archaeological finds I've
come across, when I heard about it,

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my jaw actually dropped.

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I'm on a quest to connect the clues
and rediscover the stories hidden

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among Britain's ancient pathways.

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I want to find out what it is that
tempts today's travellers to go

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back in time

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and rediscover these mystic tracks.

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Do you reckon that's the North Star?
It's not the brightest star

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in the sky, but it's probably one
of the most useful.

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It's a bit like me!

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Smell the leather -
you can still smell it.

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1900-year-old leather.
Isn't that absolutely amazing?

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This week I'm tracing
the Roman road of Dere Street

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north from the English
county of Northumberland

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to the neighbouring
Scottish Borders.

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From Hadrian's Wall to
the Antonine Wall,

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I want to know what this journey
from Britannia to Caledonia

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can tell me about the history
and legends of ancient Britain

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through the stories...
SQUEAKING

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..sounds and sights along its path.

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These are the paths our ancestors
once followed, the ancient tracks

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that we in Britain
can still walk today.

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THUNDERCLAP

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I'm in the very north of England,

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where a brooding sky meets
a strikingly bleak

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and beautiful landscape.

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Stunning wild scenery
stretches seemingly unbroken

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for miles and miles.

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But this is a borderland
that was so strategic,

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the mighty Roman Empire
was compelled to build

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this great road,

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one of their major arteries,
running north from York

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and crossing into Scotland.

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Their auspicious plans forged
a fascinating path,

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and nearly 2,000 years later, people
can still follow its ancient course.

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The Anglo-Saxons called
this track Dere Street.

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Nobody really knows why,
although Deira is the ancient

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word for Yorkshire,

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so maybe it just means the Yorkshire
Road, but whatever its origins,

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this is no ordinary path.

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This marks the site of the great
road north built by

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the Roman army between AD 79 and 81.

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CHANTING

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The Romans were superb engineers,
constructing thousands of miles

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of roads in Britain.

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They connected forts and settlements
across this rugged landscape

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and created a border that divided
Britain and ultimately defined

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the two nations
of England and Scotland.

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I'm going to travel north,
following Dere Street

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through Hadrian's Wall before
crossing the border into Scotland,

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continuing across the Lowlands
and finishing my journey

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west of Edinburgh

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at another Roman frontier,
the Antonine Wall.

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Along the way, I'll contemplate
the infinite night sky...

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..hear the call
of the distant past...

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..experiment with
poisonous potions...

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..and confront fearsome
Roman invaders.

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My Dere Street adventure begins
in Northumberland as I approach

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Britain's greatest Roman monument,

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Hadrian's Wall.

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This iconic boundary was built
by the Roman army on the orders

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of the Emperor Hadrian
following his visit to Britain

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in AD 122.

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The Roman Empire stretched all the
way from present day Iraq over

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in the east, down to the sands
of the Sahara in the south,

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but its north-eastern border
was right here at Hadrian's Wall.

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70 miles long, stretching all the
way across northern Britain,

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this massive wall was
a monumental mark to the power

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of the Roman invader.

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On this side was the safe, stable
Roman province of Britannia.

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Over here were
the barbarous Caledonians.

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Right here where
I'm standing was, as far

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as Rome was concerned,

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the very end of civilisation.

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Britannia wasn't only
protected by the wall

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but by maze-like forts like this,

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the incredible Vindolanda.

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This hugely significant
archaeological site was built,

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abandoned and rebuilt
over the centuries.

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And today archaeologists continue
to unearth its many hidden gems.

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Most days you seem to find
something amazing.

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Have you got anything today? We do.

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We have a lovely Roman shoe
from the site.

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They're incredible because each
one's a little window into the life

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that took place here, but the most
important thing first of all is

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smell the leather -
you can still smell it.

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I really can quite clearly
smell that that's leather.

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How old is that again?

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Well, this shoe is about 1,950-60

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years old. Smell that.

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Get your schnoz round that, viewers.

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That leather is nearly
2,000 years old.

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That is quite extraordinary.

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It is and it's very well preserved,
so we can pop it out the bag.

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It may actually have walked up
Dere Street. Quite possibly.

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I mean, these guys get to
Vindolanda, half of them at least,

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by coming up Dere Street. This is
their main route coming up and down

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and some of the guys here actually
serve as guards to

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the governor of Britain,
so that's their way to work.

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Each one of these shoes gives
us incredible detail about

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the populations here, because we
have as many, if not more,

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women and children's shoes
from the forts than we have men's,

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showing us it's not just a male
preserve,

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their whole communities are here.
In my pocket here I've got

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a little bit of bronze that's
popped out a little bit earlier.

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Piece of Roman armour.
Why is it so brilliantly clear?

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Well, that's been found in the same
condition as the shoe.

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This is from anaerobic,
oxygen-free levels,

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so you get no rust,
no decomposition.

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That's in the same state

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it was dropped almost
2,000 years ago.

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I could just stay here looking at
your finds all day but I'm going to

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have to get back on my way again.

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Good luck with your hike. Cheers.
Take care, Tony, nice to see you.

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To feel, touch and smell the leather
soles of the same shoes that walked

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along Dere Street

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is pretty amazing.

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This is a tangible connection
with the Roman communities who made

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the arduous expedition and settled
here at the furthest outpost

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of the empire.

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And it's a contemporary literary
connection that links Hadrian's Wall

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with the epic Game Of Thrones.

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During a visit here in 1981,
its writer, George RR Martin,

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was inspired to conjure
his own colossal wall.

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"I stood up there and tried
to imagine what it was like to be

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"a Roman legionary," Martin wrote.

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"Standing on this wall, looking
at these distant hills,

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"it was the sense of this
barrier against dark forces.

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"It planted something in me."

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But perhaps the word
"barrier" is misleading.

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As I continue along the wall,
a succession of adjoining Roman

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constructions makes you
rethink your perceptions

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of this infamous boundary.

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So what is this building?

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This is a milecastle. This is
Cawfields milecastle and there

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would've been one of these

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every Roman mile along the whole
length of Hadrian's Wall.

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And these are basically
fortified gateways.

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Can we tell much about how
it was built?

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There were three legions involved
in building Hadrian's Wall,

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the second, the sixth and
the twentieth legions,

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and they seem to have been divided
up into work parties. But the wall

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itself is pretty elegant, isn't it?

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Well, this particular milecastle's
beautifully made.

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There's some very
nicely dressed stones.

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What I don't get is that the
wall goes east-west... Yes.

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..but there were still roads
going north-south, weren't there,

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beyond the wall. It wasn't like
the Berlin Wall, where you had no

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activity between the two sides.

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Hadrian's Wall was never intended
to stop north-south movement.

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These milecastles were intended
for people to be able

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to get through, cos Hadrian's Wall
is built right the way

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through the territory
of people who were living here

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quite happily before

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and there was always going to be
movement backwards and forwards.

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So Hadrian's Wall actually
welcomes the passage of people,

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goods and livestock.

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My ideas about this frontier
are certainly being challenged

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and, as I return to Dere Street,
my walk continues to retrace

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the footsteps of those
ancient travellers

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who used to trek along
this untamed terrain.

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So how did you know how far you'd
gone along Dere Street?

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Well, every thousandth double-step -

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I suppose that's a double-step -

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they used to put up a cylindrical
marking stone and,

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as the Latin for 1,000 is M-I-L-L-E,

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this is a Roman mille-stone.

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But not only did it have on it
the distance covered, it also had

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the name of the emperor
who was around when it was carved,

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although frankly this
one's been so eroded

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I don't think we'll ever
know who commissioned this.

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It's only just been found and
it's been re-erected.

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It's rather nice, though, isn't it?

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And at least it means I know
that I'm on the right road.

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With my ancient satnav set to north,

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I head into the Otterburn Ranges,

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a place where natural beauty
meets the battlefield

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and where the tranquillity of this
stunning landscape is frequently

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broken by the sound of gunfire
and low-flying aircraft...

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..for this is one of the UK's
largest military firing ranges.

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The land's tightly controlled
by the Ministry of Defence,

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so I've been given special
permission to enter.

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But battle cries and
the sound of war

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have been piercing
this silence for centuries.

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Long after the Romans had left,
this was still the major

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north-south political route.

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This was the road up which
the English came when they wanted

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to put down the Scots.
For instance, in the year 1298

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the English king, Edward I,
known as Edward Longshanks,

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marched up here with his army
when he wanted to put down

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the rebellion led by
the legendary William Wallace.

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Sir William Wallace was
Scotland's Braveheart,

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a patriot warrior

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who embodied the very essence
of Scottish independence and rallied

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the troops behind his banner.

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In July 1298, the Scottish
and English armies met at a decisive

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battle near Falkirk, where
the Scots were defeated.

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The sun had finally set
on William Wallace's fight

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for Scottish freedom

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and, under the very same sky that
I am walking now, an epic moment

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in Scotland's misty past drifted
into history and folklore.

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If archaeologists want to reconnect
with the ancient past, they just dig

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a hole, right? But here on
Dere Street at night,

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I can do the exact opposite.

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I just tilt my head back and I can
make the most authentic link

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possible with my long-lost ancestors
by looking up the night sky.

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This window on the past is one
of Britain's most spectacular

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and protected stargazing sites.

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I know the stars aren't static,
but would the constellations

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the Romans saw be pretty much
what we can see up there now?

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Very much so. Many of the
constellations we see were named

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by the Romans,
and many of the planets.

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Like Mars, the god of war,
Venus, the god of beauty.

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What was the significance
of the stars to the Romans?

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I think many people, when they
looked up at the night sky,

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they were trying to work out
what was going on but they're also

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trying to use them
to predict the future,

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so astrology was big
in Roman times as well. Mm.

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And then also navigation. They had
a huge empire, and to navigate

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from one place to the other, I'm
pretty convinced they must have used

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the stars. It's funny, isn't it,

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I'm trying to make an imaginative
leap of 2,000 years,

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but that's peanuts compared with
what's up there.

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Well, if you take into account
that our galaxy, the Milky Way,

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contains 300 billion stars and
it's about 13.6 billion years,

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I think, yeah, sort of 2,000 years
is a bit of a drop in the ocean.

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There is an immense joy

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00:14:13,420 --> 00:14:16,420
in just looking up and, with all our
street lights

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00:14:16,420 --> 00:14:19,140
and everything else, we sort of
lose track of that, and just sort

240
00:14:19,140 --> 00:14:21,540
of the movement of the stars,
the changing of the seasons,

241
00:14:21,540 --> 00:14:24,220
it keeps us grounded somehow...
Yeah. ..so by looking up, we get

242
00:14:24,220 --> 00:14:25,900
a better understanding of our place.

243
00:14:25,900 --> 00:14:27,860
Do you reckon that one might be
the North Star?

244
00:14:27,860 --> 00:14:30,420
It's hard to say cos we haven't got
that many stars out there,

245
00:14:30,420 --> 00:14:32,500
but it's pretty far north.
I think you're right.

246
00:14:32,500 --> 00:14:34,180
I think that is the North Star. Yay!

247
00:14:34,180 --> 00:14:36,900
It's not the brightest star in the
sky but it's probably one of

248
00:14:36,900 --> 00:14:38,460
the most useful. It's a bit like me!

249
00:14:41,340 --> 00:14:43,700
The universe has no boundaries.

250
00:14:43,700 --> 00:14:48,100
But back on Dere Street, the end
of England and the call of Scotland

251
00:14:48,100 --> 00:14:50,900
lead me to ask, seriously,

252
00:14:50,900 --> 00:14:52,340
what is a border anyway?

253
00:15:07,030 --> 00:15:08,670
With Britannia behind me,

254
00:15:08,670 --> 00:15:11,310
I can almost hear Caledonia's call.

255
00:15:11,310 --> 00:15:13,350
ETHEREAL WIND INSTRUMENT
BLASTS BRASSILY

256
00:15:20,430 --> 00:15:24,230
I'm continuing my journey north
along the ancient Roman track

257
00:15:24,230 --> 00:15:26,670
of Dere Street towards Scotland.

258
00:15:28,470 --> 00:15:31,270
Many people who make
this Anglo-Scottish commute

259
00:15:31,270 --> 00:15:34,310
are familiar with the crossing
at Carter Bar.

260
00:15:34,310 --> 00:15:37,110
But I'm venturing a few miles east,

261
00:15:37,110 --> 00:15:39,030
keeping on my Dere Street path...

262
00:15:40,390 --> 00:15:42,070
..to unite with a fellow walker,

263
00:15:42,070 --> 00:15:46,190
and someone who might help me
work out why our border is a border.

264
00:15:47,310 --> 00:15:49,710
It's a pretty good walking day,
now, isn't it? It's lovely.

265
00:15:49,710 --> 00:15:51,350
Fresh, fresh and breezy.

266
00:15:51,350 --> 00:15:52,510
And clear.

267
00:15:52,510 --> 00:15:53,470
And not raining.

268
00:16:00,110 --> 00:16:02,950
Is that a Roman camp over there?
That lozenge shaped thing?

269
00:16:02,950 --> 00:16:07,390
yes, I think it's probably three
overlapping Roman camps,

270
00:16:07,390 --> 00:16:08,510
and according to the map,

271
00:16:08,510 --> 00:16:10,430
there's also a Roman fortlet.

272
00:16:10,430 --> 00:16:13,270
That skyline
is more or less the border

273
00:16:13,270 --> 00:16:15,750
between Scotland and England,
following the watershed.

274
00:16:15,750 --> 00:16:18,270
Do you know, even if you hadn't
told me that was the border,

275
00:16:18,270 --> 00:16:21,990
I think I would have sensed that
in some way it's border country.

276
00:16:21,990 --> 00:16:24,430
Yeah, it's kind of wild
and untouched, isn't it?

277
00:16:24,430 --> 00:16:27,550
And that's why they presumably
decided they'd draw a line,

278
00:16:27,550 --> 00:16:29,710
and say there's this side,
and there's that side,

279
00:16:29,710 --> 00:16:32,470
and there's this...
this no-man's-land in the middle.

280
00:16:32,470 --> 00:16:34,910
When you say wild, did there used to
be a lot of smuggling,

281
00:16:34,910 --> 00:16:37,110
Border reivers,
that kind of thing? Yeah, yeah.

282
00:16:37,110 --> 00:16:40,310
The fact it was unpopulated
made it quite easy for the raiders

283
00:16:40,310 --> 00:16:42,350
from either side to drive away

284
00:16:42,350 --> 00:16:45,430
their neighbour's
sheep and cattle and horses.

285
00:16:45,430 --> 00:16:47,070
They'd come over at night,

286
00:16:47,070 --> 00:16:48,870
and round them up,

287
00:16:48,870 --> 00:16:50,350
and when they got hungry,

288
00:16:50,350 --> 00:16:55,190
the women folk would serve
a dish of spurs on the table,

289
00:16:55,190 --> 00:16:56,190
and say there's no food.

290
00:16:56,190 --> 00:16:59,470
Here's your spurs, get riding.
We need more mutton on the table.

291
00:16:59,470 --> 00:17:01,750
Shall we get our spurs on,
and get to the border?

292
00:17:01,750 --> 00:17:02,750
Let's do that, yes.

293
00:17:06,590 --> 00:17:08,670
And as I approach the border,

294
00:17:08,670 --> 00:17:11,830
I can really sense
a unique identity here,

295
00:17:11,830 --> 00:17:13,910
personified in history, of course,

296
00:17:13,910 --> 00:17:17,070
by the wild spirit
of the Border reivers.

297
00:17:17,070 --> 00:17:20,270
These fearless clans
emerged in the Middle Ages

298
00:17:20,270 --> 00:17:23,830
to rebel against both
the English and Scottish crowns.

299
00:17:23,830 --> 00:17:27,870
Somehow the border didn't divide
the people living along it,

300
00:17:27,870 --> 00:17:29,230
but united them.

301
00:17:31,870 --> 00:17:33,350
Is this it?

302
00:17:33,350 --> 00:17:34,630
It is, indeed.

303
00:17:34,630 --> 00:17:36,150
There's the promised land,
that way.

304
00:17:36,150 --> 00:17:37,910
It's a bit of an anti-climax,
isn't it?

305
00:17:37,910 --> 00:17:40,110
Well, that's what you say.
It's a land of milk and honey.

306
00:17:40,110 --> 00:17:42,910
Well, it may be, but you don't know
it's a land of milk and honey!

307
00:17:42,910 --> 00:17:45,390
Doesn't say Scotland there and
England on this side of the gate,

308
00:17:45,390 --> 00:17:46,630
there's nothing.

309
00:17:46,630 --> 00:17:49,310
It's better marked here
than some places along the border.

310
00:17:49,310 --> 00:17:50,670
Some of the wilder spots,

311
00:17:50,670 --> 00:17:54,510
there's the odd rotting fence
post sticking out of a bog,

312
00:17:54,510 --> 00:17:56,270
and that's all you've got.

313
00:17:56,270 --> 00:17:58,070
How long has this
been the border?

314
00:17:58,070 --> 00:18:00,230
This bit,
probably since the Middle Ages.

315
00:18:00,230 --> 00:18:01,910
But there's other stretches

316
00:18:01,910 --> 00:18:04,670
where it wasn't decided
till the 18th century,

317
00:18:04,670 --> 00:18:08,150
when the lawyers for the landowners
on either side got together

318
00:18:08,150 --> 00:18:10,710
to decide what was the borders of
their estates.

319
00:18:10,710 --> 00:18:13,670
This may seem slightly heretical,

320
00:18:13,670 --> 00:18:15,870
but given that we're not fighting
each other any more,

321
00:18:15,870 --> 00:18:17,070
at least not for the moment,

322
00:18:17,070 --> 00:18:19,350
is there much point in a border?

323
00:18:19,350 --> 00:18:21,430
Well, generally speaking,

324
00:18:21,430 --> 00:18:24,910
they are fairly arbitrary lines
on a map,

325
00:18:24,910 --> 00:18:28,550
and the way that
they're used in the world today

326
00:18:28,550 --> 00:18:32,590
it's as if they supply some kind
of moral authority,

327
00:18:32,590 --> 00:18:35,630
as if you on that side
are the undeserving,

328
00:18:35,630 --> 00:18:37,150
we on this side are the deserving,

329
00:18:37,150 --> 00:18:38,630
and you talk to people,

330
00:18:38,630 --> 00:18:41,070
they don't identify themselves
as Scots or English,

331
00:18:41,070 --> 00:18:45,070
they might either describe
themselves as Borderers or reivers.

332
00:18:45,070 --> 00:18:48,990
I suppose I'd better get on
and head into the heart of Scotland.

333
00:18:48,990 --> 00:18:50,710
Yeah! Good luck on your journey.

334
00:18:54,590 --> 00:18:55,830
See ya. Cheers.

335
00:19:00,830 --> 00:19:04,350
So borders define
a sort of no-man's-land,

336
00:19:04,350 --> 00:19:06,790
or perhaps more of
an every man's land,

337
00:19:06,790 --> 00:19:10,190
where people can live peacefully
side by side

338
00:19:10,190 --> 00:19:12,470
with barely a thought
for a dividing line.

339
00:19:14,670 --> 00:19:16,470
Pushing north now,

340
00:19:16,470 --> 00:19:18,590
and still following
the ancient Roman Road...

341
00:19:19,750 --> 00:19:23,350
..I've arrived nine miles southeast
of the town of Jedburgh,

342
00:19:23,350 --> 00:19:25,470
to find an ancient Celtic earthwork.

343
00:19:26,870 --> 00:19:30,150
This mighty hill fort looks down
on the Roman road

344
00:19:30,150 --> 00:19:33,630
where thousands of Roman soldiers
would have marched by,

345
00:19:33,630 --> 00:19:36,030
a stone's throw
from its ramparts.

346
00:19:37,270 --> 00:19:38,350
Surely, then,

347
00:19:38,350 --> 00:19:42,110
this is where centurions
and Caledonians would clash.

348
00:19:42,110 --> 00:19:45,150
A battle ground,
strewn with fallen warriors.

349
00:19:46,670 --> 00:19:50,590
On top of that hill is
a massive Iron Age hill fort,

350
00:19:50,590 --> 00:19:52,990
called Woden Law,

351
00:19:52,990 --> 00:19:55,150
which would have been built
by the local people

352
00:19:55,150 --> 00:19:56,710
who lived around here.

353
00:19:58,070 --> 00:20:00,190
The path along which I'm walking,

354
00:20:00,190 --> 00:20:02,990
which you can't really see
because it's covered by grass,

355
00:20:02,990 --> 00:20:06,350
is Dere Street, which was
constructed by the Roman army.

356
00:20:07,550 --> 00:20:10,510
So what's the connection
between the two?

357
00:20:14,030 --> 00:20:17,350
When we made Black Adder
Back And Forth in the year 2000,

358
00:20:17,350 --> 00:20:19,830
we were all the Romans
on Hadrian's Wall,

359
00:20:19,830 --> 00:20:24,590
and charging towards us came
about 1,000 red-headed men

360
00:20:24,590 --> 00:20:27,070
with beards and kilts.

361
00:20:27,070 --> 00:20:31,390
That, to me, is how
we English see the Caledonians.

362
00:20:31,390 --> 00:20:33,430
Is there any remote truth in it?

363
00:20:33,430 --> 00:20:35,630
Oh, no. No, no, no.

364
00:20:35,630 --> 00:20:38,430
There's a whole series of myths
bundled up into that.

365
00:20:38,430 --> 00:20:41,630
One of the problems comes
from the very name itself.

366
00:20:41,630 --> 00:20:44,150
Caledonians is a name we know
from the Roman sources

367
00:20:44,150 --> 00:20:46,230
but it does seem to be
an Iron Age name.

368
00:20:46,230 --> 00:20:47,670
It's originally a Celtic word,

369
00:20:47,670 --> 00:20:49,470
it means the hard men,
or the shriekers.

370
00:20:49,470 --> 00:20:51,550
Hard men, shrieker.
My point is made!

371
00:20:51,550 --> 00:20:55,510
Partly true, but in the 19th century
the word gets used to mean

372
00:20:55,510 --> 00:20:57,870
everything north of Hadrian's Wall.

373
00:20:57,870 --> 00:20:59,550
So who would the people have been

374
00:20:59,550 --> 00:21:01,950
who would have been living between
present day Edinburgh

375
00:21:01,950 --> 00:21:03,190
and Hadrian's Wall?

376
00:21:03,190 --> 00:21:04,830
The only sources we have
are Roman ones,

377
00:21:04,830 --> 00:21:06,510
and how much do you trust
the Romans?

378
00:21:06,510 --> 00:21:09,150
Cos of course they're writing
propaganda, not writing history.

379
00:21:09,150 --> 00:21:11,590
But if you trust them, you'd say
the people around here were

380
00:21:11,590 --> 00:21:13,470
a group called the Selgovae.

381
00:21:13,470 --> 00:21:15,150
What would the Selgovae have
been like?

382
00:21:15,150 --> 00:21:17,270
What we know really comes
from the archaeology,

383
00:21:17,270 --> 00:21:19,870
and the archaeology gives us quite
a good picture of the Iron Age

384
00:21:19,870 --> 00:21:21,150
in this area.

385
00:21:21,150 --> 00:21:23,910
Changing through time, so middle
of the first millennium BC,

386
00:21:23,910 --> 00:21:26,590
they're probably living
in hill forts like that.

387
00:21:26,590 --> 00:21:28,150
By the time of the Roman period,

388
00:21:28,150 --> 00:21:31,510
they're living in smaller
farmsteads, small communities,

389
00:21:31,510 --> 00:21:33,910
with a central place
where the trade comes together.

390
00:21:33,910 --> 00:21:36,030
Would they have had
a relationship with the Romans?

391
00:21:36,030 --> 00:21:38,550
They must have done, surely?
There must have been something.

392
00:21:38,550 --> 00:21:40,430
You don't put
that many thousand soldiers

393
00:21:40,430 --> 00:21:43,630
back and forth through a country
without some kind of relationship

394
00:21:43,630 --> 00:21:45,550
and one of the relationships
will have been

395
00:21:45,550 --> 00:21:49,830
soldiers buying or extracting
supplies from the locals.

396
00:21:49,830 --> 00:21:52,910
So Rome is a threat,
but it's also an opportunity.

397
00:21:52,910 --> 00:21:55,670
Yeah, they've got nice stuff,
haven't they? You have a market.

398
00:21:55,670 --> 00:21:56,830
You can trade for things,

399
00:21:56,830 --> 00:21:59,270
you can take some of these
wonderful Roman raw materials

400
00:21:59,270 --> 00:22:01,270
melt them down,
turn them into their own stuff.

401
00:22:05,430 --> 00:22:09,070
And they develop a lifestyle
that mixes the Roman and the local

402
00:22:09,070 --> 00:22:11,510
in this frontier zone,
this edge of empire.

403
00:22:11,510 --> 00:22:13,430
And you've found evidence of that?

404
00:22:13,430 --> 00:22:17,630
Yeah, we find it especially in Roman
artefacts coming off Iron Age sites.

405
00:22:17,630 --> 00:22:20,710
There's a lovely example from
a wee farmstead just over there,

406
00:22:20,710 --> 00:22:22,870
and there, they're making
local prestige goods,

407
00:22:22,870 --> 00:22:25,630
really flashy bronze horse gear.

408
00:22:25,630 --> 00:22:27,230
They're also making Roman brooches.

409
00:22:28,910 --> 00:22:32,550
These very marketable objects
discovered near Dere Street

410
00:22:32,550 --> 00:22:35,910
reveal that the indigenous people
of the Scottish Borders

411
00:22:35,910 --> 00:22:38,910
were in fact using the Roman road
to trade goods.

412
00:22:40,510 --> 00:22:42,230
And while doing so,

413
00:22:42,230 --> 00:22:45,630
they absorbed the exotic styles
of the Roman Empire,

414
00:22:45,630 --> 00:22:48,790
and created their own
unique frontier culture.

415
00:22:50,630 --> 00:22:52,190
After the Romans left,

416
00:22:52,190 --> 00:22:55,710
Dere Street still remained in use
for a long time didn't it? Mm, yeah.

417
00:22:55,710 --> 00:22:58,110
In the Medieval period,
if you wanted to have a rammy,

418
00:22:58,110 --> 00:22:59,710
head down Dere Street.

419
00:22:59,710 --> 00:23:01,990
First stop Corbridge,
burn it to the ground.

420
00:23:01,990 --> 00:23:04,070
The Roman roads were the best
roads in this country

421
00:23:04,070 --> 00:23:05,430
until the 18th century.

422
00:23:05,430 --> 00:23:07,710
Many of the would-be kings
around this area

423
00:23:07,710 --> 00:23:08,990
are taking on Latin names,

424
00:23:08,990 --> 00:23:10,470
they're using the Latin language.

425
00:23:10,470 --> 00:23:12,350
And the church!
The church is a good example.

426
00:23:12,350 --> 00:23:15,150
Early Christianity draws heavily
on Roman models,

427
00:23:15,150 --> 00:23:19,710
so long after Rome is a threat,
it's still an idea in the mind.

428
00:23:19,710 --> 00:23:21,750
STRANGE FLUTING BLASTS

429
00:23:21,750 --> 00:23:25,270
And in fact, the landscape
the Romans marched through

430
00:23:25,270 --> 00:23:27,870
would still have resounded
to the sound of

431
00:23:27,870 --> 00:23:31,270
this iconic Celtic instrument
called the carnyx.

432
00:23:31,270 --> 00:23:33,190
The fear of an indigenous culture

433
00:23:33,190 --> 00:23:36,390
swept away by the might
of the Roman empire

434
00:23:36,390 --> 00:23:39,630
seems to be encapsulated
in its haunting calls.

435
00:23:39,630 --> 00:23:41,190
IT HOWLS LIKE A BRASS DIDGERIDOO

436
00:23:42,670 --> 00:23:46,750
This magnificent instrument has
been rediscovered, re-crafted,

437
00:23:46,750 --> 00:23:48,870
and brought back to life.

438
00:23:48,870 --> 00:23:50,470
LOW DRONE
BECOMES THIN RISING TONE

439
00:23:52,910 --> 00:23:55,390
The ancient cry
of a far off people,

440
00:23:55,390 --> 00:23:57,230
and the end of an epoch,

441
00:23:57,230 --> 00:23:59,270
as the Romans marched in.

442
00:23:59,270 --> 00:24:02,110
This really is an epic place.

443
00:24:03,790 --> 00:24:07,430
And as its extraordinary
primeval wail sends me off

444
00:24:07,430 --> 00:24:09,030
along my Dere Street path...

445
00:24:10,590 --> 00:24:14,950
..I'm off to witness the restoration
of Scotland's ancient landscape,

446
00:24:14,950 --> 00:24:18,950
absorb Sir Walter Scott's
spectacular views,

447
00:24:18,950 --> 00:24:23,230
and ascend the tantalisingly-named
Fatlips Castle.

448
00:24:33,720 --> 00:24:36,240
The Romans marched on northwards.

449
00:24:36,240 --> 00:24:40,160
With the Caledonians wisely
learning to coexist,

450
00:24:40,160 --> 00:24:44,400
the way was paved for a rather less
fearsome and rather more efficient

451
00:24:44,400 --> 00:24:46,760
invasion of the Scottish Lowlands.

452
00:24:53,960 --> 00:24:58,280
And just a few miles north of the
English border is Witton Edge,

453
00:24:58,280 --> 00:25:01,520
a spectacular feat of engineering
that cuts dramatically

454
00:25:01,520 --> 00:25:03,000
through the landscape,

455
00:25:03,000 --> 00:25:06,440
providing travellers like me
with a walker's paradise.

456
00:25:08,880 --> 00:25:12,760
This was the major road between the
first and the fourth centuries

457
00:25:12,760 --> 00:25:16,840
and it's easy to imagine, isn't
it, the legions leaving York

458
00:25:16,840 --> 00:25:20,400
and marching onward and onwards
and onwards, until eventually

459
00:25:20,400 --> 00:25:24,400
they disappeared into the misty
realms of Caledonia?

460
00:25:24,400 --> 00:25:26,760
As you can probably see, I'm rather
enjoying myself.

461
00:25:26,760 --> 00:25:28,680
So many Roman roads

462
00:25:28,680 --> 00:25:31,560
have been covered over with
tarmac over the years,

463
00:25:31,560 --> 00:25:36,640
so to be on this flat, straight,
very, very ancient road

464
00:25:36,640 --> 00:25:38,400
is, frankly, a bit of a buzz.

465
00:25:44,120 --> 00:25:46,560
Everywhere the Roman
legions conquered,

466
00:25:46,560 --> 00:25:50,760
they utilised the natural
resources to meticulous effect.

467
00:25:50,760 --> 00:25:54,320
They quarried local stone to build
their roads and walls,

468
00:25:54,320 --> 00:25:58,160
hunted the landscape to feed their
armies and cut down trees

469
00:25:58,160 --> 00:25:59,840
to construct their forts.

470
00:26:03,920 --> 00:26:06,680
It's incredible to think
that thousands of years

471
00:26:06,680 --> 00:26:07,760
before the Romans,

472
00:26:07,760 --> 00:26:12,280
this landscape was blanketed in
forests of birch, hazel and pine.

473
00:26:17,280 --> 00:26:19,240
By the time the Romans arrived,

474
00:26:19,240 --> 00:26:23,280
at least half of the natural
woodland had been stripped away.

475
00:26:25,160 --> 00:26:29,560
Today only 4% of Scotland
is covered with native trees.

476
00:26:31,040 --> 00:26:33,680
In order to redress
this destruction,

477
00:26:33,680 --> 00:26:35,800
today's dedicated ecologists

478
00:26:35,800 --> 00:26:38,680
are embarking on the mammoth
task of restoring

479
00:26:38,680 --> 00:26:41,440
Scotland's ancient landscape.

480
00:26:41,440 --> 00:26:45,720
I'm swinging west of Dere Street to
this 19th-century sheep pen,

481
00:26:45,720 --> 00:26:47,120
or stell,

482
00:26:47,120 --> 00:26:50,920
to meet one man with a commitment
to reclaim the past.

483
00:26:53,280 --> 00:26:55,200
It's not a bad old view, is it?

484
00:26:55,200 --> 00:26:59,160
Not bad. Considerably different than
it looked less than 20 years ago.

485
00:27:01,400 --> 00:27:05,280
All of this up until
Millennium Day, 2000,

486
00:27:05,280 --> 00:27:08,280
was all bare, open sheep walk.

487
00:27:08,280 --> 00:27:12,200
Not a tree to be seen. A few tiny
little clumps left,

488
00:27:12,200 --> 00:27:13,920
only in places where sheep

489
00:27:13,920 --> 00:27:16,600
and domestic stock could not gain
access.

490
00:27:16,600 --> 00:27:18,280
How did all this start, then?

491
00:27:18,280 --> 00:27:20,640
This started with a group of us.

492
00:27:20,640 --> 00:27:26,800
We have planted circa 600,000
native trees and shrubs.

493
00:27:26,800 --> 00:27:28,400
How did you know what to plant?

494
00:27:28,400 --> 00:27:31,240
We were able to analyse
the pollen record stored

495
00:27:31,240 --> 00:27:32,680
up in a high peat bog,

496
00:27:32,680 --> 00:27:36,160
and this record goes back about
9,000 years. From that,

497
00:27:36,160 --> 00:27:37,880
we can then extrapolate
what we think

498
00:27:37,880 --> 00:27:41,160
the most common species were
and roughly what kind of soils

499
00:27:41,160 --> 00:27:45,440
they were on. Could the stuff that
you've introduced adversely affect

500
00:27:45,440 --> 00:27:47,600
the ecology that was
already existent?

501
00:27:47,600 --> 00:27:50,640
Since we have started managing this,

502
00:27:50,640 --> 00:27:52,720
everything has got markedly better.

503
00:27:52,720 --> 00:27:54,000
There is more of everything.

504
00:27:54,000 --> 00:27:57,080
You've got vast areas of
heathland recovery,

505
00:27:57,080 --> 00:28:01,320
heather, blueberry. On the tops,
you've got alpine and notable flora.

506
00:28:01,320 --> 00:28:03,960
They have all now came downslope

507
00:28:03,960 --> 00:28:06,840
and are colonising
previously bare ground.

508
00:28:06,840 --> 00:28:09,640
Was this a lot of softie
lefty ecologists?

509
00:28:09,640 --> 00:28:11,040
Sort of, yes.

510
00:28:11,040 --> 00:28:14,960
Really, a bunch of tree-huggers
who wanted some trees to hug.

511
00:28:14,960 --> 00:28:18,320
What kind of animals and insects do
you see around here now that

512
00:28:18,320 --> 00:28:21,240
you'd have struggled to find
20 years ago?

513
00:28:21,240 --> 00:28:23,120
Huge explosion in birdlife,

514
00:28:23,120 --> 00:28:25,320
largely due to our planting
trees

515
00:28:25,320 --> 00:28:28,560
and the insects that then use the
trees. All the plant life now

516
00:28:28,560 --> 00:28:31,440
is now flowering regularly.

517
00:28:31,440 --> 00:28:34,840
Under grazing, a lot of plants never
get a chance to flower.

518
00:28:40,120 --> 00:28:43,240
You're not some southern hippie
who's come here telling Scots people

519
00:28:43,240 --> 00:28:44,800
what to do, though, are you?

520
00:28:44,800 --> 00:28:48,320
Quite definitely not. I come from
generations of Borders shepherds

521
00:28:48,320 --> 00:28:52,080
and I'm, in fact, the first
in my family not to become

522
00:28:52,080 --> 00:28:54,560
either a shepherd or cattleman

523
00:28:54,560 --> 00:28:56,520
here in the Southern Uplands
of Scotland.

524
00:28:56,520 --> 00:29:00,720
So, essentially what you're doing
is the exact opposite of everything

525
00:29:00,720 --> 00:29:02,800
that your family has devoted
their lives to? Yes.

526
00:29:02,800 --> 00:29:04,040
How did they feel about that?

527
00:29:04,040 --> 00:29:07,400
My father actually passed away.
A lifelong shepherd.

528
00:29:07,400 --> 00:29:09,760
I'd won him round to the idea

529
00:29:09,760 --> 00:29:14,120
and his sort of exact quote was,
"Look, son, plant your bloody oaks.

530
00:29:14,120 --> 00:29:15,360
"The sheep are done."

531
00:29:15,360 --> 00:29:17,160
Really?

532
00:29:17,160 --> 00:29:21,040
And plant oak trees he has,
producing this panorama of

533
00:29:21,040 --> 00:29:23,560
indigenous plants and trees.

534
00:29:23,560 --> 00:29:27,840
And I'm delighted, too, to help
revive this ancient landscape.

535
00:29:27,840 --> 00:29:30,560
What is it they say about
small acorns?

536
00:29:31,680 --> 00:29:34,600
So this little fella
is going to become part

537
00:29:34,600 --> 00:29:36,680
of the woodland community.

538
00:29:36,680 --> 00:29:38,680
Yeah. So...

539
00:29:38,680 --> 00:29:39,720
Whack it with my heel.

540
00:29:39,720 --> 00:29:41,720
Yes, heel it in a little. Yeah.

541
00:29:41,720 --> 00:29:43,360
See how naturally I planted that?

542
00:29:43,360 --> 00:29:45,160
Yeah, it's not bad.

543
00:29:45,160 --> 00:29:47,400
I'm going to go now.
I've been slightly midge-bitten

544
00:29:47,400 --> 00:29:49,720
and I'm a bit wet but
it's been worth it, hasn't it?

545
00:29:49,720 --> 00:29:51,480
Yes, it has been.

546
00:29:51,480 --> 00:29:53,400
Thanks for looking after me.
See you.

547
00:30:00,840 --> 00:30:04,040
Today this land is,
of course, at peace.

548
00:30:04,040 --> 00:30:07,240
But some of the most iconic
buildings in the Borders were built

549
00:30:07,240 --> 00:30:12,520
as great fortifications to maintain
control of the Scottish Lowlands.

550
00:30:12,520 --> 00:30:16,160
One such edifice is this
much-loved local landmark.

551
00:30:18,080 --> 00:30:20,880
It had fallen into a sorry
state of disrepair

552
00:30:20,880 --> 00:30:24,160
but, much like the replanting
of the Lowland forests,

553
00:30:24,160 --> 00:30:27,040
restoration work has
sympathetically revived

554
00:30:27,040 --> 00:30:29,840
this rather
seductive-sounding structure.

555
00:30:37,480 --> 00:30:41,640
This place is actually
called Fatlips Castle

556
00:30:41,640 --> 00:30:44,240
and nobody quite knows why,
but I've been given

557
00:30:44,240 --> 00:30:46,680
three different explanations.

558
00:30:46,680 --> 00:30:49,800
See which one you think
is the most plausible.

559
00:30:49,800 --> 00:30:55,120
Number one is that there used to be
wild goats around here that had

560
00:30:55,120 --> 00:30:59,920
fat lips, and one particular goat
saw the English coming and bleated

561
00:30:59,920 --> 00:31:03,400
so loud that it warned
everyone in the castle.

562
00:31:03,400 --> 00:31:06,320
The second one is that
the family who owned it

563
00:31:06,320 --> 00:31:09,040
had hereditary floppy lips,

564
00:31:09,040 --> 00:31:13,320
and the third is that
one particular owner

565
00:31:13,320 --> 00:31:17,200
used to like snogging the women
as they entered the castle.

566
00:31:17,200 --> 00:31:18,320
Which one?

567
00:31:21,040 --> 00:31:23,560
Frankly, I think
they're all rubbish.

568
00:31:24,800 --> 00:31:28,920
Castles like this were built
throughout the Scottish Borders

569
00:31:28,920 --> 00:31:32,440
and used as lookout points
and places of refuge.

570
00:31:32,440 --> 00:31:36,480
They gave warning during centuries
of turbulent clan feuds

571
00:31:36,480 --> 00:31:37,840
and English invasions.

572
00:31:44,680 --> 00:31:48,560
Well, we might not know how it
got its name but it's pretty obvious

573
00:31:48,560 --> 00:31:50,320
why it was built here.

574
00:31:50,320 --> 00:31:52,440
This is border country

575
00:31:52,440 --> 00:31:55,160
and you needed something
strong and defended,

576
00:31:55,160 --> 00:31:58,920
something that would make sure that
no-one could ride over the hill,

577
00:31:58,920 --> 00:32:01,320
come up here and give you a fat lip.

578
00:32:09,920 --> 00:32:14,680
I could stay up here and enjoy this
spectacular view all day.

579
00:32:14,680 --> 00:32:17,600
But more architectural gems
lie further along

580
00:32:17,600 --> 00:32:20,080
Dere Street's ancient track.

581
00:32:20,080 --> 00:32:24,240
I'm continuing north to the river
crossing near Melrose and a site

582
00:32:24,240 --> 00:32:27,320
with centuries of engineering
excellence converge.

583
00:32:30,440 --> 00:32:33,360
In this field full of crops,
which look to me remarkably

584
00:32:33,360 --> 00:32:38,880
like turnips, there once stood
a mighty Roman fortress called

585
00:32:38,880 --> 00:32:43,360
Trimontium, which was built
in order to protect the crossing

586
00:32:43,360 --> 00:32:47,080
of the River Tweed, which flows
all the way down there. You can see

587
00:32:47,080 --> 00:32:51,400
that bridge which the Victorians
built in order to let

588
00:32:51,400 --> 00:32:54,120
19th-century travellers cross it.

589
00:32:54,120 --> 00:32:57,120
It does have something of
the Roman about it, doesn't it?

590
00:32:57,120 --> 00:33:02,200
It's well engineered, it's
confident, it's massive but, sadly,

591
00:33:02,200 --> 00:33:04,640
like the Roman army,
it's now history.

592
00:33:07,080 --> 00:33:11,560
This magnificent 19-arch Leaderfoot
Viaduct once conveyed

593
00:33:11,560 --> 00:33:14,040
railway passengers across the
River Tweed.

594
00:33:16,080 --> 00:33:19,120
Now the railway is no more,

595
00:33:19,120 --> 00:33:22,280
so I've got this extraordinary
brick colossus

596
00:33:22,280 --> 00:33:23,240
all to myself.

597
00:33:27,360 --> 00:33:31,040
Today, as I stand on this bridge
and listen to the burbles

598
00:33:31,040 --> 00:33:32,840
of the River Tweed,

599
00:33:32,840 --> 00:33:36,880
I can bask in the delights
of the serene Scottish Borders.

600
00:33:38,480 --> 00:33:40,160
And in doing so,

601
00:33:40,160 --> 00:33:43,920
I'm walking in the footsteps
of a true Scottish legend,

602
00:33:43,920 --> 00:33:47,960
a man who spent a lifetime embracing
the wonders of this region and

603
00:33:47,960 --> 00:33:50,560
whose classic historical novels

604
00:33:50,560 --> 00:33:53,560
include Ivanhoe,
The Lady Of The Lake

605
00:33:53,560 --> 00:33:56,560
and the Robin Hood of Scotland,
Rob Roy.

606
00:33:56,560 --> 00:33:59,120
It is, of course, Sir Walter Scott.

607
00:34:03,280 --> 00:34:06,240
This place is called Scott's View

608
00:34:06,240 --> 00:34:07,840
and the story goes that

609
00:34:07,840 --> 00:34:10,800
Sir Walter loved this panorama
so much

610
00:34:10,800 --> 00:34:14,320
that whenever he was passing,
he would stop here,

611
00:34:14,320 --> 00:34:17,560
until eventually his horses
would pull up

612
00:34:17,560 --> 00:34:20,160
without being given any
instruction to do so.

613
00:34:20,160 --> 00:34:26,040
And even when he died in 1832
and his funeral cortege

614
00:34:26,040 --> 00:34:28,800
was going past on their way to
Dryburgh Abbey,

615
00:34:28,800 --> 00:34:31,640
which was his last resting place,

616
00:34:31,640 --> 00:34:34,160
the horses just stopped.

617
00:34:38,000 --> 00:34:41,600
Walter Scott enjoyed travelling
through the borderlands, collecting

618
00:34:41,600 --> 00:34:45,800
stories, poems and songs
passed down by word of mouth

619
00:34:45,800 --> 00:34:47,920
from generation to generation.

620
00:34:49,760 --> 00:34:53,920
And it was in his mythical landscape
that he built his home, the truly

621
00:34:53,920 --> 00:34:56,040
breathtaking Abbotsford House.

622
00:34:57,600 --> 00:35:01,560
This remarkable residence
encompassed everything Scott adored

623
00:35:01,560 --> 00:35:03,520
about his homeland.

624
00:35:03,520 --> 00:35:07,480
And this love of Scotland
was immortalised in verse,

625
00:35:07,480 --> 00:35:10,400
as he wrote very enthusiastically,

626
00:35:10,400 --> 00:35:13,720
"O Caledonia! stern and wild,

627
00:35:13,720 --> 00:35:16,720
"Meet nurse for a poetic child!

628
00:35:16,720 --> 00:35:19,800
"Land of brown heath
and shaggy wood,

629
00:35:19,800 --> 00:35:22,280
"Land of the mountain and the flood,

630
00:35:22,280 --> 00:35:25,840
"Land of my sires! what mortal hand

631
00:35:25,840 --> 00:35:29,240
"Can e'er untie the filial band,

632
00:35:29,240 --> 00:35:32,000
"That knits me to
thy rugged strand!"

633
00:35:33,440 --> 00:35:35,280
From the modern point of view,

634
00:35:35,280 --> 00:35:38,240
this house is a bit barmy, isn't it?
It is a bit.

635
00:35:38,240 --> 00:35:41,880
Scott himself called
it his Conundrum Castle.

636
00:35:41,880 --> 00:35:45,000
It's very much an antiquarian's
house and, in one sense,

637
00:35:45,000 --> 00:35:46,800
Scott takes that very seriously,

638
00:35:46,800 --> 00:35:49,640
cos he's passionately
interested in history,

639
00:35:49,640 --> 00:35:51,360
but there is a part of him

640
00:35:51,360 --> 00:35:52,840
where he's poking fun at himself.

641
00:35:52,840 --> 00:35:54,880
He knows this is a bit overdone.

642
00:35:54,880 --> 00:35:57,040
He was so successful, wasn't he?

643
00:35:57,040 --> 00:36:00,680
He was the JK Rowling
of his day in terms of sales.

644
00:36:00,680 --> 00:36:04,400
Throughout the 19th century,
down to about the 1880s,

645
00:36:04,400 --> 00:36:06,680
Scott outsells everyone else.

646
00:36:06,680 --> 00:36:09,760
What do you think it was that people
liked so much about his work

647
00:36:09,760 --> 00:36:10,880
at that time?

648
00:36:10,880 --> 00:36:13,760
He is one of the people that
brings back ghost stories,

649
00:36:13,760 --> 00:36:18,720
the Gothic. At a time when Scotland
is beginning to be seen as a place

650
00:36:18,720 --> 00:36:22,360
that's primitive and attractive,
Scott is writing about these wild

651
00:36:22,360 --> 00:36:25,200
and wonderful and mysterious places,

652
00:36:25,200 --> 00:36:29,080
and he's also a great teller
of ripping yarns.

653
00:36:29,080 --> 00:36:33,120
Is it fair to say that he was one
of those late 19th-century people

654
00:36:33,120 --> 00:36:36,480
who reinvented a notion
of Scottishness,

655
00:36:36,480 --> 00:36:38,560
if not for the Scots, certainly for
the rest of us?

656
00:36:38,560 --> 00:36:41,600
Part of Scott's genius, and even
though today he's sometimes

657
00:36:41,600 --> 00:36:44,280
blamed for creating
a version of Scotland,

658
00:36:44,280 --> 00:36:48,160
Scottland with two Ts,
Scott, following Robert Burns,

659
00:36:48,160 --> 00:36:51,200
is the man who broadcast to the
wider world

660
00:36:51,200 --> 00:36:54,280
the notion of what Scotland is,
which still substantially

661
00:36:54,280 --> 00:36:55,240
we have today.

662
00:36:57,200 --> 00:37:00,040
This custodian of Scottish
history and cultivator

663
00:37:00,040 --> 00:37:02,120
of Caledonian culture

664
00:37:02,120 --> 00:37:04,840
will be forever revered
among his compatriots.

665
00:37:06,840 --> 00:37:09,760
And as I travel further
into Scotland's lure,

666
00:37:09,760 --> 00:37:13,200
I'll be finishing my journey at
the water's edge...

667
00:37:13,200 --> 00:37:16,240
..if I don't fall foul of an
ancient potion first.

668
00:37:24,800 --> 00:37:26,080
In medieval times,

669
00:37:26,080 --> 00:37:29,120
this section of
the ancient Roman Dere Street

670
00:37:29,120 --> 00:37:32,280
between Edinburgh
and the abbey town of Jedburgh

671
00:37:32,280 --> 00:37:35,760
gained the Latin name Via Regia,

672
00:37:35,760 --> 00:37:36,640
or Royal Way.

673
00:37:38,120 --> 00:37:41,920
It was in fact by then a very
important route of pilgrimage.

674
00:37:41,920 --> 00:37:43,960
And here at its midway point,

675
00:37:43,960 --> 00:37:47,360
Scotland's King Malcolm IV
founded a resting place

676
00:37:47,360 --> 00:37:50,000
for weary travellers
called Soutra Aisle.

677
00:37:53,000 --> 00:37:57,400
Dere Street and Via Regia
transported not only pilgrims,

678
00:37:57,400 --> 00:38:00,760
great armies and livestock
into this area,

679
00:38:00,760 --> 00:38:02,640
but also herbs and spices,

680
00:38:02,640 --> 00:38:05,720
from the far-flung corners
of the globe.

681
00:38:05,720 --> 00:38:08,400
It may seem like a desolate place
today,

682
00:38:08,400 --> 00:38:12,240
but Soutra Aisle was once
a centre of medical excellence.

683
00:38:13,560 --> 00:38:16,480
The largest hospital
in medieval Scotland

684
00:38:16,480 --> 00:38:20,360
once stood here,
just by the side of Dere Street.

685
00:38:20,360 --> 00:38:22,600
It was run by the Augustinian monks,

686
00:38:22,600 --> 00:38:25,640
and it was surrounded by
vast church lands

687
00:38:25,640 --> 00:38:28,280
which funded its medical activities.

688
00:38:28,280 --> 00:38:30,880
It's just a tiny little byway now,

689
00:38:30,880 --> 00:38:35,520
but in those days it would have been
full of travellers and pilgrims.

690
00:38:35,520 --> 00:38:38,760
Imagine the sounds
and the smells and the noise.

691
00:38:38,760 --> 00:38:40,080
MOOING

692
00:38:40,080 --> 00:38:41,200
Bit like today, I guess.

693
00:38:51,320 --> 00:38:54,720
Augustine monks were actually
the leading practitioners

694
00:38:54,720 --> 00:38:56,160
of herbal medicine.

695
00:38:56,160 --> 00:38:58,240
They were
completely self-sufficient,

696
00:38:58,240 --> 00:39:03,040
growing their own herbs for both
the dining table and the infirmary.

697
00:39:03,040 --> 00:39:06,360
Incredibly, more than 200 different
plant species,

698
00:39:06,360 --> 00:39:10,760
some used in medical application,
have been found at the Soutra site.

699
00:39:12,240 --> 00:39:14,640
This is wild hemlock,

700
00:39:14,640 --> 00:39:16,320
a poisonous little beauty,

701
00:39:16,320 --> 00:39:19,360
that's still survived
from those ancient times.

702
00:39:19,360 --> 00:39:21,920
I'll leave the sampling of that
to someone else.

703
00:39:26,360 --> 00:39:28,920
And today, just north of Soutra,

704
00:39:28,920 --> 00:39:31,600
at Edinburgh's
Royal Botanical Gardens,

705
00:39:31,600 --> 00:39:34,880
playing with potions
comes with the territory.

706
00:39:34,880 --> 00:39:40,000
Modern-day botanists have recreated
the hospital's ancient herb garden,

707
00:39:40,000 --> 00:39:44,560
cultivating this quite dazzling
display of herbs, poppies,

708
00:39:44,560 --> 00:39:46,000
and, of course, hemlock.

709
00:39:49,120 --> 00:39:51,440
I'm about to take part
in a cookery class

710
00:39:51,440 --> 00:39:53,040
from the distant past,

711
00:39:53,040 --> 00:39:56,600
and, rather riskily, I've offered
myself up as a guinea pig

712
00:39:56,600 --> 00:40:00,200
for a medieval potion
made from delicate red poppies.

713
00:40:04,960 --> 00:40:09,520
The poppies are our homage to
an ancient medieval formulation

714
00:40:09,520 --> 00:40:11,200
that was known as dwale,

715
00:40:11,200 --> 00:40:13,120
and it included opium poppies,

716
00:40:13,120 --> 00:40:14,520
which these definitely aren't.

717
00:40:14,520 --> 00:40:16,520
These are our common
red field poppies.

718
00:40:16,520 --> 00:40:19,040
But the dwale itself
had opium poppy,

719
00:40:19,040 --> 00:40:21,360
hemlock, henbane, mandrake root...

720
00:40:21,360 --> 00:40:25,000
..so all the really
quite potent herbs.

721
00:40:25,000 --> 00:40:28,480
It would knock you out
for hours, about 12 hours,

722
00:40:28,480 --> 00:40:30,480
and it was used
as an anaesthetic.

723
00:40:30,480 --> 00:40:31,600
An anaesthetic?!

724
00:40:31,600 --> 00:40:33,640
I find that
really interesting, actually,

725
00:40:33,640 --> 00:40:35,960
because for years I've been
making documentaries

726
00:40:35,960 --> 00:40:39,360
about various aspects
of medieval medicine,

727
00:40:39,360 --> 00:40:42,920
and the assumption always is
that everybody who underwent

728
00:40:42,920 --> 00:40:45,040
any kind of operation would be
screaming with agony.

729
00:40:45,040 --> 00:40:46,560
No, they weren't.

730
00:40:46,560 --> 00:40:47,880
They were out for the count,

731
00:40:47,880 --> 00:40:49,240
and for hours on end.

732
00:40:49,240 --> 00:40:52,360
And if this noxious
little nostrum didn't kill them,

733
00:40:52,360 --> 00:40:54,040
they would regain consciousness,

734
00:40:54,040 --> 00:40:55,800
and they would make a full recovery,

735
00:40:55,800 --> 00:40:57,720
just minus
one or two limbs, perhaps.

736
00:40:57,720 --> 00:41:00,800
You do realise you've just debunked
12 years of my work, don't you?

737
00:41:00,800 --> 00:41:02,320
Sorry about that, Tony.

738
00:41:02,320 --> 00:41:04,880
But we're not going to make some
kind of killer anaesthetic.

739
00:41:04,880 --> 00:41:07,960
We can make a very simple,
very safe red field poppy syrup.

740
00:41:07,960 --> 00:41:10,760
So it's just a small amount
of the field poppies

741
00:41:10,760 --> 00:41:12,560
going into warm water.

742
00:41:12,560 --> 00:41:14,520
God, that's changed colour
just immediately.

743
00:41:14,520 --> 00:41:15,680
It's completely changed.

744
00:41:15,680 --> 00:41:18,360
Yeah, this is our indication that
some of the compounds are...

745
00:41:18,360 --> 00:41:19,880
..are coming out of the poppy.

746
00:41:19,880 --> 00:41:21,240
How's this doing? That's done.

747
00:41:21,240 --> 00:41:23,400
We can strain out the petals
of the poppy. Mm-hm.

748
00:41:26,480 --> 00:41:27,960
It's a lovely colour.

749
00:41:27,960 --> 00:41:30,000
It's exquisite, isn't it?
Yeah. Really nice.

750
00:41:35,280 --> 00:41:37,120
We're going to add sugar.

751
00:41:37,120 --> 00:41:39,200
When this dissolves,

752
00:41:39,200 --> 00:41:42,560
we'll have our...
red field poppy syrup.

753
00:41:42,560 --> 00:41:44,040
There we are.

754
00:41:44,040 --> 00:41:45,280
Wow.

755
00:41:51,800 --> 00:41:54,040
That's very nice. I could
put myself to sleep with this.

756
00:41:54,040 --> 00:41:56,040
Yeah, absolutely.
You can imagine taking that

757
00:41:56,040 --> 00:41:58,040
just before you snuggle down
into bed at night.

758
00:41:58,040 --> 00:42:00,680
That would just bring you
a very restful sleep.

759
00:42:00,680 --> 00:42:02,840
Thank you very much.
Very welcome.

760
00:42:02,840 --> 00:42:04,920
YAWNING: Right,
I'm going to go to bed now.

761
00:42:04,920 --> 00:42:06,000
LAUGHTER

762
00:42:07,960 --> 00:42:10,600
There's no rest
for the wicked allowed, anyhow.

763
00:42:10,600 --> 00:42:13,360
I need to keep a clear head
if I'm to reach the end of my walk.

764
00:42:19,040 --> 00:42:23,280
I can feel in my bones that we're
nearing the end of Dere Street.

765
00:42:23,280 --> 00:42:25,920
It must have terminated somewhere
around here,

766
00:42:25,920 --> 00:42:27,720
because we've got to the sea!

767
00:42:27,720 --> 00:42:29,200
That's the Firth of Forth.

768
00:42:33,080 --> 00:42:37,120
We think it probably ended
just up there, at Cramond,

769
00:42:37,120 --> 00:42:39,600
which was a key strategic
Roman fort,

770
00:42:39,600 --> 00:42:42,440
although the only evidence
that the Romans left there

771
00:42:42,440 --> 00:42:46,080
is some shadowy earthworks
next to a church.

772
00:42:46,080 --> 00:42:48,840
Actually, that's not
quite the only evidence.

773
00:42:51,080 --> 00:42:52,320
HE GROANS

774
00:42:52,320 --> 00:42:56,480
It's a bit of a struggle
to get up here.

775
00:42:56,480 --> 00:43:00,040
Can you see that sign that
Historic Scotland have put up?

776
00:43:00,040 --> 00:43:04,120
"The worn carving above has been
supposed to be an eagle

777
00:43:04,120 --> 00:43:06,640
"carved by the Roman garrison
of Cramond.

778
00:43:06,640 --> 00:43:08,280
"Whether it is an eagle,

779
00:43:08,280 --> 00:43:11,600
"or whether it is even Roman
is uncertain."

780
00:43:11,600 --> 00:43:13,040
That is Roman, isn't it?

781
00:43:13,040 --> 00:43:15,120
That is definitely Roman.

782
00:43:15,120 --> 00:43:16,520
Couldn't be anything else.

783
00:43:18,240 --> 00:43:20,240
Well, I'm convinced.

784
00:43:20,240 --> 00:43:23,640
You certainly need to be eagle-eyed
to be absolutely sure.

785
00:43:23,640 --> 00:43:25,120
LATIN MARCHING CHANT

786
00:43:27,040 --> 00:43:28,560
But one thing is certain.

787
00:43:29,640 --> 00:43:33,160
Cramond served as
an important strategic harbour

788
00:43:33,160 --> 00:43:34,800
for the Roman garrisons,

789
00:43:34,800 --> 00:43:38,000
who were stationed along
yet another imposing wall.

790
00:43:39,120 --> 00:43:44,040
The mighty Roman Empire was defined
by its ever expanding borders.

791
00:43:44,040 --> 00:43:45,720
And in 140 AD,

792
00:43:45,720 --> 00:43:50,120
just over 20 years after
the construction of Hadrian's Wall,

793
00:43:50,120 --> 00:43:55,480
his successor, Antoninus Pius,
made another push 100 miles north...

794
00:43:57,480 --> 00:44:00,080
..building a turf and timber
frontier

795
00:44:00,080 --> 00:44:02,520
between the Firths of Clyde
in the west

796
00:44:02,520 --> 00:44:04,760
and Forth to the east.

797
00:44:04,760 --> 00:44:07,280
But the Antonine Wall turned out
to be

798
00:44:07,280 --> 00:44:10,760
the Roman army's final assault
into Caledonia.

799
00:44:10,760 --> 00:44:11,960
And in the end,

800
00:44:11,960 --> 00:44:16,280
nothing more than a last gasp
for the mighty Roman Empire.

801
00:44:22,360 --> 00:44:26,040
Presumably, the Antonine Wall
was built to protect

802
00:44:26,040 --> 00:44:30,160
the province of Britannia
from the Caledonian hordes.

803
00:44:30,160 --> 00:44:34,200
But within 20 years,
this great bulwark,

804
00:44:34,200 --> 00:44:36,240
this wonderful engineering project

805
00:44:36,240 --> 00:44:39,120
that was pushing
the Roman Empire forward,

806
00:44:39,120 --> 00:44:43,840
and attempting to stabilise
its northern border had failed,

807
00:44:43,840 --> 00:44:46,920
and the Antonine Wall was abandoned.

808
00:44:46,920 --> 00:44:50,280
Then the Roman army
went in to retreat

809
00:44:50,280 --> 00:44:52,240
back down Dere Street,

810
00:44:52,240 --> 00:44:57,000
until finally they got to the safety
and security of Hadrian's Wall

811
00:44:57,000 --> 00:44:58,040
once again.

812
00:44:59,680 --> 00:45:02,040
I've been on a wonderfully
epic journey

813
00:45:02,040 --> 00:45:04,640
along Dere Street's
ancient Roman road.

814
00:45:05,960 --> 00:45:09,680
The connection with land and history
is tangible,

815
00:45:09,680 --> 00:45:12,880
from gazing at the boundless
night sky,

816
00:45:12,880 --> 00:45:15,840
to contemplating centuries
of bloodshed,

817
00:45:15,840 --> 00:45:18,560
and a haunting call
from the mists of time.

818
00:45:20,480 --> 00:45:22,360
Like all great journeys,

819
00:45:22,360 --> 00:45:25,760
this has been an experience,
and an education.

820
00:45:25,760 --> 00:45:28,160
A chance to reflect
on Dere Street,

821
00:45:28,160 --> 00:45:30,400
and the Britain it dissects.

822
00:45:31,880 --> 00:45:34,920
I've always known that somewhere
round about the Scottish border

823
00:45:34,920 --> 00:45:38,000
there were two massive walls,

824
00:45:38,000 --> 00:45:41,760
which stretched from coast to coast
and were built by the Romans,

825
00:45:41,760 --> 00:45:44,600
but it's only now I'm beginning
to appreciate that

826
00:45:44,600 --> 00:45:46,280
that's only half the story,

827
00:45:46,280 --> 00:45:50,480
because at right angles to those
walls are roads,

828
00:45:50,480 --> 00:45:54,880
roads which people have
constantly rebuilt and maintained.

829
00:45:54,880 --> 00:45:56,640
And unlike the walls,

830
00:45:56,640 --> 00:45:59,040
they're not about
stopping people,

831
00:45:59,040 --> 00:46:01,240
preventing them from having access.

832
00:46:01,240 --> 00:46:03,360
The roads are about movement,

833
00:46:03,360 --> 00:46:05,760
they're about cultural exchange.

834
00:46:05,760 --> 00:46:08,240
It's roads that unite us,

835
00:46:08,240 --> 00:46:11,080
roads that give us
knowledge and trade.

836
00:46:11,080 --> 00:46:14,560
Ultimately,
it's roads that civilise us.

837
00:46:39,680 --> 00:46:42,640
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