1 00:00:06,687 --> 00:00:09,201 Coast is home. 2 00:00:09,247 --> 00:00:16,005 And we're exploring the most endlessly fascinating shoreline in the world - 3 00:00:16,047 --> 00:00:17,765 our own. 4 00:00:21,967 --> 00:00:29,362 The quest to discover surprising secret stories from around the British lsles continues. 5 00:00:32,967 --> 00:00:35,356 This is Coast. 6 00:01:03,287 --> 00:01:05,642 The British lsles are ringed 7 00:01:05,687 --> 00:01:09,680 with a necklace of extraordinary beauty. 8 00:01:10,527 --> 00:01:13,325 And the pearls of our coast? 9 00:01:15,367 --> 00:01:18,086 lts magnificent beaches. 10 00:01:23,167 --> 00:01:25,158 Every one of them is different. 11 00:01:25,207 --> 00:01:28,517 Each of our beaches has a unique character. 12 00:01:28,567 --> 00:01:32,162 Some of them are sandy. Others, well... 13 00:01:34,007 --> 00:01:36,282 ..they're a little more unexpected. 14 00:01:46,407 --> 00:01:49,399 Whether they're pebble-strewn and wild 15 00:01:49,447 --> 00:01:52,086 or soft and inviting, 16 00:01:52,127 --> 00:01:55,324 they all have amazing tales to tell. 17 00:02:02,567 --> 00:02:07,118 We're on a journey to reveal the secret life of beaches. 18 00:02:14,607 --> 00:02:18,885 Down south, we venture to the Channel lslands. 19 00:02:18,927 --> 00:02:21,043 On Jersey's silver shores, 20 00:02:21,087 --> 00:02:25,638 Hermione explores mysterious patterns popping up in the sand. 21 00:02:27,127 --> 00:02:31,006 For a few hours only, before the tide wipes their creations clean, 22 00:02:31,047 --> 00:02:35,643 the beaches of Jersey are about to enjoy a secret life as an artist's studio. 23 00:02:44,967 --> 00:02:46,958 High in the north of Scotland, 24 00:02:47,007 --> 00:02:49,396 we explore secret lowlands. 25 00:02:49,447 --> 00:02:55,158 Andy Torbet has unique access to possibly the most dangerous beach in Britain. 26 00:02:56,447 --> 00:02:59,996 lf l was to wait any longer, l'd probably get a bomb dropped on my head. 27 00:03:03,567 --> 00:03:06,957 And on the golden margin of South Wales, 28 00:03:07,007 --> 00:03:09,646 Tessa discovers how, at Port Talbot, 29 00:03:09,687 --> 00:03:13,521 they turned sand into steel. 30 00:03:13,567 --> 00:03:18,402 Why build a steelworks on something as soft 31 00:03:18,447 --> 00:03:21,120 and as shifting as this? 32 00:03:27,807 --> 00:03:32,119 My journey takes me to the shingle spit of Dungeness. 33 00:03:36,967 --> 00:03:39,527 l'm here to unpick the secrets 34 00:03:39,567 --> 00:03:43,116 of one of our island's most extraordinary beaches. 35 00:03:44,727 --> 00:03:48,845 Dungeness is home to over 600 types of plant, 36 00:03:48,887 --> 00:03:51,879 including one that's nuclear. 37 00:03:53,047 --> 00:03:55,561 But it's what lies beneath my feet 38 00:03:55,607 --> 00:03:57,757 that l find so fascinating. 39 00:03:58,807 --> 00:04:01,526 lt feels like l'm all at sea 40 00:04:01,567 --> 00:04:06,004 on the most remarkable ocean of pebbles in Britain. 41 00:04:09,607 --> 00:04:12,075 But if pebbles aren't your thing... 42 00:04:12,127 --> 00:04:17,804 Our coast has a wonderful variety of delights to match anywhere in the world. 43 00:04:18,567 --> 00:04:22,162 Britain's beaches don't begin and end with sand. 44 00:04:22,207 --> 00:04:25,563 They're made from all manner of wonderful stuff. 45 00:04:25,607 --> 00:04:28,326 But that's one of the best kept secrets of our coast 46 00:04:28,367 --> 00:04:33,964 because you never see our beaches all together to compare them...until now. 47 00:04:35,207 --> 00:04:37,641 l'm making a unique map. 48 00:04:37,687 --> 00:04:41,123 Each bucket and bag contains a different beach, 49 00:04:41,167 --> 00:04:44,318 the real sand and stones of our coast, 50 00:04:44,367 --> 00:04:46,119 collected by volunteers 51 00:04:46,167 --> 00:04:48,522 from every compass point in Britain. 52 00:04:51,567 --> 00:04:55,003 This livid red sand is what we enjoy 53 00:04:55,047 --> 00:04:58,835 on the beaches of the English Riviera down here in Devon. 54 00:04:58,887 --> 00:05:02,960 And it's red because it was created 380 million years ago 55 00:05:03,007 --> 00:05:06,363 when Britain was part of a red hot desert 56 00:05:06,407 --> 00:05:08,716 on a super continent down at the equator. 57 00:05:12,727 --> 00:05:17,118 Up here in the Outer Hebrides, the sand is almost silver 58 00:05:17,167 --> 00:05:21,763 and that's because it's loaded with fragments of seashells. 59 00:05:25,807 --> 00:05:31,279 This is the classic golden sand you find on beaches the length and breadth of Britain 60 00:05:31,327 --> 00:05:35,923 from the vast expanses here in Lancashire... 61 00:05:37,487 --> 00:05:40,638 ..to the long, thin curving beaches of North Norfolk. 62 00:05:44,167 --> 00:05:46,806 These are flint pebbles from the coast of Suffolk. 63 00:05:46,847 --> 00:05:51,875 They're washed out of chalk 70 or 80 million years old. 64 00:05:51,927 --> 00:05:54,646 There is flint also here on the beach at Dungeness. 65 00:05:57,727 --> 00:06:00,685 This sparkly stuff is schist, 66 00:06:00,727 --> 00:06:04,117 metamorphic rock formed under intense pressure 67 00:06:04,167 --> 00:06:06,886 half a billion years ago beneath mountain ranges. 68 00:06:06,927 --> 00:06:11,239 lt's created incredible beaches on the east coast of Scotland. 69 00:06:13,007 --> 00:06:16,602 This is slate. lt's fantastic for skimming stones. 70 00:06:16,647 --> 00:06:19,923 You can find it on the beaches of West Wales. 71 00:06:22,647 --> 00:06:25,878 Look at this beautiful, sparkling Cornish granite. 72 00:06:25,927 --> 00:06:29,158 lt's the quartz in this granite that gets washed out 73 00:06:29,207 --> 00:06:31,880 and creates the lovely beaches in Cornwall. 74 00:06:32,887 --> 00:06:37,324 Our necklace of sand and stone tells an extraordinary story 75 00:06:37,367 --> 00:06:40,359 of the birth of Britain over millions of years. 76 00:06:41,527 --> 00:06:44,405 But our shoreline isn't stuck in the past. 77 00:06:49,007 --> 00:06:55,003 On the sea's edge, you can also experience the future being forged. 78 00:06:55,047 --> 00:06:59,962 The huge beach at Dungeness was built one pebble at a time. 79 00:07:00,007 --> 00:07:03,716 Now it's around 1 5 square miles, 80 00:07:03,767 --> 00:07:05,200 and counting. 81 00:07:06,967 --> 00:07:11,882 The best guess is that there are five million million pebbles here. 82 00:07:11,927 --> 00:07:13,645 That's five trillion 83 00:07:13,687 --> 00:07:16,121 and it's a number that's growing all the time. 84 00:07:18,767 --> 00:07:23,283 What's feeding this beast of a beach and redrawing the map? 85 00:07:24,127 --> 00:07:27,915 To discover how the sea keeps our margin on the move, 86 00:07:27,967 --> 00:07:31,437 l'm meeting geologist Jan Zalasiewicz. 87 00:07:32,287 --> 00:07:35,723 Jan, how are these vast expanses of pebble beach created? 88 00:07:35,767 --> 00:07:39,999 First, you have to make the materials, formed by erosion of the land surface. 89 00:07:40,047 --> 00:07:43,198 Most of these have been washed out of the chalk. 90 00:07:43,247 --> 00:07:46,762 lt's the ultimate survivor. Flint is harder than everything else. 91 00:07:46,807 --> 00:07:50,163 And then the waves, which here mainly come from the west. 92 00:07:50,207 --> 00:07:53,677 We can show with these arrows we have here... 93 00:07:54,967 --> 00:07:59,563 ..they come from the west and move the material along the beach. 94 00:07:59,607 --> 00:08:02,075 So it will gradually move along here. 95 00:08:02,127 --> 00:08:04,004 What's special here at Dungeness 96 00:08:04,047 --> 00:08:06,242 is it's building up and building out 97 00:08:06,287 --> 00:08:10,883 because we have another set of waves which come from the Channel 98 00:08:10,927 --> 00:08:13,680 and you have a set of ridges which have formed 99 00:08:13,727 --> 00:08:18,755 into this wonderful beach-shaped structure of Dungeness. 100 00:08:18,807 --> 00:08:23,198 NlCK: Conveyor belts of opposing sea currents push the pebbles forward. 101 00:08:23,247 --> 00:08:27,365 Over centuries, the shingle has piled up and up, 102 00:08:27,407 --> 00:08:29,557 creating a massive stone nose. 103 00:08:30,687 --> 00:08:33,440 And it's remarkable. lt's still growing. lt's still building. 104 00:08:33,487 --> 00:08:37,116 And it will build until it reaches some kind of equilibrium here. 105 00:08:37,727 --> 00:08:42,118 NlCK: Nature isn't the only builder busy at Dungeness. 106 00:08:42,167 --> 00:08:46,479 Later l'll explore what it's like to live on this pile of stones, 107 00:08:46,527 --> 00:08:48,882 and inside it, 108 00:08:48,927 --> 00:08:51,600 as l search out some remarkable little bloodsuckers 109 00:08:51,647 --> 00:08:54,639 who lurk in the pebble pools. 110 00:08:54,687 --> 00:08:58,805 This beach is full of surprises. 111 00:08:58,847 --> 00:09:01,156 But so are many others. 112 00:09:04,487 --> 00:09:09,436 We are hunting out the secret life of our beaches. 113 00:09:10,687 --> 00:09:14,566 lt's no great shock that we love to share the sand 114 00:09:14,607 --> 00:09:16,677 with four-legged friends. 115 00:09:20,207 --> 00:09:24,519 But while we may crave the comfort of companions, 116 00:09:24,567 --> 00:09:29,561 some shy characters take flight at the first sight of strangers. 117 00:09:30,487 --> 00:09:35,003 There's a wild side to our shores where we aren't welcome. 118 00:09:35,847 --> 00:09:38,520 Like here at Dornoch Firth. 119 00:09:40,247 --> 00:09:41,919 On golden sands, 120 00:09:41,967 --> 00:09:45,164 the seals enjoy a top-secret life, 121 00:09:45,207 --> 00:09:47,641 thanks to some powerful friends. 122 00:09:48,927 --> 00:09:51,760 Zoologist and ex-soldier Andy Torbet 123 00:09:51,807 --> 00:09:56,039 is returning home to have an explosive encounter 124 00:09:56,087 --> 00:09:58,999 on Scotland's most deadly beach. 125 00:10:04,487 --> 00:10:07,399 AND Y: The shore around here was my playground as a boy. 126 00:10:07,447 --> 00:10:09,358 l loved to explore. 127 00:10:09,407 --> 00:10:12,479 But there's one sight l never got to see. 128 00:10:12,527 --> 00:10:14,677 There's a bit of beach that's out of bounds. 129 00:10:14,727 --> 00:10:17,036 where even the locals are kept at bay. 130 00:10:17,087 --> 00:10:18,918 (Gunfire) 131 00:10:20,647 --> 00:10:23,241 lt looks more like a battle zone than a beach, 132 00:10:23,287 --> 00:10:25,164 and that's no accident. 133 00:10:37,327 --> 00:10:39,887 This is Tain, an RAF firing range 134 00:10:39,927 --> 00:10:42,395 where bomber pilots train for war. 135 00:10:44,247 --> 00:10:48,559 We used to use vehicles just like this one when l was in the forces. 136 00:10:48,607 --> 00:10:52,395 But this one hasn't been abandoned here. lt's been left here deliberately. 137 00:10:52,447 --> 00:10:54,642 This is no longer a mode of transport. 138 00:10:54,687 --> 00:10:56,245 lt's now a target. 139 00:10:56,287 --> 00:10:57,925 And if l was to wait any longer, 140 00:10:57,967 --> 00:11:00,481 l'd probably get a bomb dropped on my head. 141 00:11:02,007 --> 00:11:04,760 For obvious reasons, the public are kept well away. 142 00:11:04,807 --> 00:11:08,004 But during a pause in the pretend hostilities, 143 00:11:08,047 --> 00:11:11,517 l have been given permission to explore this sandy battleground. 144 00:11:12,567 --> 00:11:15,764 Very few people get to witness what goes on here. 145 00:11:15,807 --> 00:11:17,604 But there are eyes watching. 146 00:11:17,647 --> 00:11:20,878 On a beach over there is a big group of seals. 147 00:11:20,927 --> 00:11:22,838 (Engines roar) 148 00:11:28,047 --> 00:11:32,120 Just half a mile away, the seal pod seems relaxed enough. 149 00:11:32,167 --> 00:11:35,443 They've picked this beach to raise their pups. 150 00:11:35,487 --> 00:11:38,638 But what's the appeal of such a noisy spot? 151 00:11:38,687 --> 00:11:42,236 How can seals bear to bask under the bombers? 152 00:11:43,767 --> 00:11:48,204 To uncover the secret of this odd relationship, l am meeting Sean Twiss 153 00:11:48,247 --> 00:11:50,238 who studies seal psychology. 154 00:11:53,327 --> 00:11:56,046 lronically, we are taking cover. 155 00:11:56,087 --> 00:12:00,205 Seals seem OK with planes, but people spook them. 156 00:12:00,247 --> 00:12:01,726 (Engines roar) 157 00:12:02,767 --> 00:12:04,280 So Sean... 158 00:12:06,007 --> 00:12:10,398 l would not expect to find grey seals happily basking in the sun 159 00:12:10,447 --> 00:12:13,405 right next to an RAF bomber range with all that going on. 160 00:12:13,447 --> 00:12:15,756 Why is it they can cope with this disturbance? 161 00:12:15,807 --> 00:12:20,403 Well, classic example there. Not even a head up in response to that. 162 00:12:20,447 --> 00:12:23,519 lt happens so often, it doesn't pose a threat to them. 163 00:12:23,567 --> 00:12:26,923 Why waste your energy responding to something that's not a threat? 164 00:12:26,967 --> 00:12:30,926 Do you think the bombing helps? Because it keeps people away from the beach. 165 00:12:30,967 --> 00:12:34,676 Certainly. Because people are effectively excluded from this beach, 166 00:12:34,727 --> 00:12:39,676 there's no real threat to the seals of people casually walking down here with their dogs. 167 00:12:39,727 --> 00:12:41,922 That's one of the reasons why they like it. 168 00:12:42,727 --> 00:12:46,606 We're more of a threat to them as human beings walking down this beach 169 00:12:46,647 --> 00:12:49,002 than any amount of aeroplanes. 170 00:12:49,047 --> 00:12:51,163 You can see a few heads coming up now 171 00:12:51,207 --> 00:12:54,005 because the wind's taking our scent down towards them. 172 00:12:54,047 --> 00:12:57,756 They have a really good sense of smell, so that's starting to spook them 173 00:12:57,807 --> 00:12:59,604 much more than the plane. 174 00:13:00,687 --> 00:13:05,124 AND Y: So my manly odour is more offensive to the seal than a bomb blast. 175 00:13:07,687 --> 00:13:10,076 What can these sensitive souls be thinking of? 176 00:13:10,127 --> 00:13:12,846 l still want to know but l'll have to wait a while. 177 00:13:12,887 --> 00:13:17,278 Now they've taken flight, there's a chance for me to do the same. 178 00:13:23,247 --> 00:13:27,206 Nearby RAF Lossiemouth is the base for the bombers. 179 00:13:27,247 --> 00:13:30,239 l'm here to meet Flight Commander Brian James. 180 00:13:30,287 --> 00:13:32,198 So why target the beach? 181 00:13:33,967 --> 00:13:37,676 lt allows us to train realistically for those operations we are on. 182 00:13:37,727 --> 00:13:41,436 l'd be looking at the scenery and the terrain tactically, 183 00:13:41,487 --> 00:13:45,480 with a view of hiding behind the hills to mask me from radar. 184 00:13:45,527 --> 00:13:48,963 And it allows us to train in a safe environment. 185 00:13:49,007 --> 00:13:50,804 (Explosions) 186 00:13:50,847 --> 00:13:54,237 We drop small ammunitions, which are practice bombs, 187 00:13:54,287 --> 00:13:56,517 to minimise the effect on the environment. 188 00:13:56,567 --> 00:13:59,525 lt has the flight characteristics of our larger weapons 189 00:13:59,567 --> 00:14:01,762 but it has a very small charge, 190 00:14:01,807 --> 00:14:06,119 only used to put out a puff of smoke so the range can see where the weapon went. 191 00:14:06,167 --> 00:14:07,725 We do drop the larger weapons 192 00:14:07,767 --> 00:14:10,645 to practise handling the aeroplane with the weight. 193 00:14:10,687 --> 00:14:13,724 But they are concrete so they have no explosive charge, 194 00:14:13,767 --> 00:14:15,962 minimising the effect on the environment. 195 00:14:16,007 --> 00:14:18,919 Do you think the seals are bothered by what you do? 196 00:14:18,967 --> 00:14:22,516 l don't think they are. They seem to lie there yawning and scratching. 197 00:14:22,567 --> 00:14:24,922 l think they're quite used to us now. 198 00:14:30,527 --> 00:14:34,839 l'm surprised these guys keep their cool as they're being buzzed by bombers. 199 00:14:34,887 --> 00:14:36,639 Why aren't they frightened? 200 00:14:36,687 --> 00:14:41,238 Sean Twiss has a way to discover what a seal finds scary. 201 00:14:41,287 --> 00:14:45,439 One whiff of our scent made these slippery customers scarper 202 00:14:45,487 --> 00:14:49,765 so Sean had to devise a cunning plan to get closer to them. 203 00:14:50,767 --> 00:14:53,520 He's showing me a film of those close encounters. 204 00:14:55,887 --> 00:14:59,766 A remote-control robot vehicle was fitted with a camera. 205 00:14:59,807 --> 00:15:05,120 lt captured the response of different seals to the same scary sound. 206 00:15:05,167 --> 00:15:07,044 (Howl) 207 00:15:09,927 --> 00:15:13,556 We actually play a wolf call as a sort of natural sound 208 00:15:13,607 --> 00:15:16,167 to elicit a kind of mild, startled response. 209 00:15:16,207 --> 00:15:19,358 And we monitor the behaviour of the seal afterwards, 210 00:15:19,407 --> 00:15:22,285 in particular, how many times it checks its pup. 211 00:15:22,327 --> 00:15:25,558 We find that some mothers do a lot of that pup-checking behaviour 212 00:15:25,607 --> 00:15:29,202 and are really attentive of their pups, and others do very little of it. 213 00:15:29,247 --> 00:15:32,717 Some males are very nervous. Others are quite relaxed. 214 00:15:32,767 --> 00:15:36,043 We get differences in aggressiveness and boldness. 215 00:15:36,087 --> 00:15:39,557 With the remote-control vehicle, you see that. Some will approach the vehicle. 216 00:15:39,607 --> 00:15:40,960 (Honks) 217 00:15:41,007 --> 00:15:42,884 Others will shy away from it. 218 00:15:42,927 --> 00:15:45,999 Anyone who has got a pet won't find this too surprising. 219 00:15:46,047 --> 00:15:48,720 But we have to quantify it and find ways of measuring it. 220 00:15:48,767 --> 00:15:52,760 lf we're talking about animals out in the wild, it's a difficult thing to do. 221 00:15:56,207 --> 00:16:01,076 AND Y: These peaceful personalities let the nuisance go over their heads. 222 00:16:01,127 --> 00:16:05,245 More aggressive characters would probably give this beach a wide berth. 223 00:16:07,087 --> 00:16:11,000 But even this placid bunch wouldn't let me get near on foot. 224 00:16:11,047 --> 00:16:14,198 So, the only way is up. 225 00:16:18,567 --> 00:16:23,516 The bird's-eye view confirms the colony prefers planes to people. 226 00:16:23,567 --> 00:16:26,286 This is a popular spot. 227 00:16:26,327 --> 00:16:29,558 There's a good few hundred seals on the beach below us now. 228 00:16:29,607 --> 00:16:31,802 You can see the patches where they've been basking 229 00:16:31,847 --> 00:16:34,759 and the trails they've left as they've crawled down to the sea. 230 00:16:35,767 --> 00:16:39,316 Maybe these are the most laid-back seals in Britain. 231 00:16:39,367 --> 00:16:41,722 Or perhaps they'd rather have the noise 232 00:16:41,767 --> 00:16:44,201 than share their sands with anyone else. 233 00:16:59,127 --> 00:17:01,516 NlCK: Ourjourney continues 234 00:17:01,567 --> 00:17:04,240 along the east coast of Scotland. 235 00:17:13,647 --> 00:17:19,199 The gorgeous sandy face of this shore has a firm foundation. 236 00:17:19,247 --> 00:17:23,798 A rock-hard skeleton holds the soft skin in place. 237 00:17:23,847 --> 00:17:29,001 The stony backbone of the beaches formed millions of years ago. 238 00:17:29,047 --> 00:17:32,722 Locals put that timeless stone to work, 239 00:17:32,767 --> 00:17:36,646 many of its secrets lost in the harbour walls. 240 00:17:39,287 --> 00:17:41,676 But in a few precious places, 241 00:17:41,727 --> 00:17:45,163 age-old stories do survive. 242 00:17:45,207 --> 00:17:47,926 We've reached St Andrews. 243 00:17:56,247 --> 00:17:58,442 Some scour the nearby beaches 244 00:17:58,487 --> 00:18:02,639 for golf balls they mislaid just moments before, 245 00:18:02,687 --> 00:18:05,918 while others play a game of seek on the sand 246 00:18:05,967 --> 00:18:11,599 that goes way back to the beginnings of life on earth. 247 00:18:13,607 --> 00:18:15,006 l'm Martin White. 248 00:18:15,047 --> 00:18:17,800 l'm a palaeontologist and l study fossils. 249 00:18:18,807 --> 00:18:21,958 l'm particularly fond of this bit of coast, 250 00:18:22,007 --> 00:18:23,963 because in 2002, 251 00:18:24,007 --> 00:18:30,003 l found trackways of a giant creature here in the lower carboniferous rocks, 252 00:18:30,047 --> 00:18:33,403 dated about 330 million years ago, 253 00:18:33,447 --> 00:18:37,645 which is about 1 00 million years before the earliest dinosaurs. 254 00:18:40,287 --> 00:18:42,243 When these rocks formed, 255 00:18:42,287 --> 00:18:44,676 Britain lay close to the equator. 256 00:18:44,727 --> 00:18:47,446 So it was a tropical climate 257 00:18:47,487 --> 00:18:51,241 and the area was covered with a lush vegetation. 258 00:18:55,007 --> 00:19:00,161 Here is the stump of one of the giant club mosses. 259 00:19:00,207 --> 00:19:03,199 These trees would have grown to maybe something like 60 metres. 260 00:19:03,247 --> 00:19:07,718 At this time also, oxygen levels in the atmosphere were higher 261 00:19:07,767 --> 00:19:10,759 and this allowed some creatures to grow much larger 262 00:19:10,807 --> 00:19:14,482 and so this area was literally crawling with giants. 263 00:19:20,007 --> 00:19:24,523 This is what l've come to see - the tracks of a giant water scorpion. 264 00:19:32,047 --> 00:19:37,280 Down here you can see curved footprints in a line. 265 00:19:38,767 --> 00:19:42,680 So this animal had three legs on each side of the body. 266 00:19:42,727 --> 00:19:47,847 And in the centre of the trackway, there's this double groove feature 267 00:19:47,887 --> 00:19:50,117 which was formed by the tail of the animal. 268 00:19:52,127 --> 00:19:57,804 l have a cut-out to show you what this giant animal looked like. 269 00:19:58,847 --> 00:20:02,601 This matches to the features of the trackway 270 00:20:02,647 --> 00:20:07,357 with the footprints on either side 271 00:20:07,407 --> 00:20:09,967 and with the large tail drag mark 272 00:20:10,007 --> 00:20:12,726 down the centre of the trackway. 273 00:20:15,127 --> 00:20:20,759 l would love to have met one of these things and been able to see it 330 million years ago. 274 00:20:27,207 --> 00:20:29,926 l've got some great footage here 275 00:20:29,967 --> 00:20:36,315 of horseshoe crabs, which are the closest living relatives to the water scorpions. 276 00:20:36,367 --> 00:20:42,476 You can see how they're moving slowly in the same way as a giant water scorpion, 277 00:20:42,527 --> 00:20:44,677 dragging its tail behind it. 278 00:20:45,687 --> 00:20:49,157 Because the trackway is very vulnerable to erosion, 279 00:20:49,207 --> 00:20:52,085 some way needed to be found of preserving it. 280 00:20:52,127 --> 00:20:55,597 That's where my friends, Dave and Dee, became involved. 281 00:20:56,567 --> 00:21:00,719 Because they're experts in moulding and casting of fossils. 282 00:21:00,767 --> 00:21:06,876 And they made a one-piece mould of the seven-metre length of this trackway. 283 00:21:06,927 --> 00:21:09,919 lt took them six days to make it. 284 00:21:09,967 --> 00:21:13,642 As a result, casts have now been placed in a museum 285 00:21:13,687 --> 00:21:16,645 and the trackway is effectively preserved. 286 00:21:18,847 --> 00:21:21,122 MARTlN: lt's wonderful to be able to come here 287 00:21:21,167 --> 00:21:24,318 and to touch the same sand as was touched by an animal 288 00:21:24,367 --> 00:21:28,599 which lived 1 00 million years before the first dinosaurs 289 00:21:28,647 --> 00:21:32,686 and to see evidence of past life. 290 00:21:50,847 --> 00:21:55,637 NlCK: We're surrounded by a natural wonder of the world. 291 00:22:05,927 --> 00:22:11,559 And the beauty of our shore is more than skin-deep. 292 00:22:11,607 --> 00:22:16,556 The sand and shingle have astonishing tales to tell. 293 00:22:18,487 --> 00:22:20,682 We're on a journey around the UK 294 00:22:20,727 --> 00:22:23,719 to explore the secret life of our beaches. 295 00:22:25,327 --> 00:22:29,002 And l can't resist a bit of detective work 296 00:22:29,047 --> 00:22:32,164 around Newport in Pembrokeshire. 297 00:22:39,247 --> 00:22:43,798 Foreboding cliffs conceal isolated little coves. 298 00:22:44,687 --> 00:22:49,238 The only way to sneak in and out is by sea. 299 00:22:51,367 --> 00:22:56,487 So some 30 years ago, a fisherman was surprised to spy a stranger 300 00:22:56,527 --> 00:22:58,643 on one of these remote beaches. 301 00:23:00,527 --> 00:23:06,397 The shifty character was standing guard over a stash of marine gear 302 00:23:06,447 --> 00:23:09,678 and powerful outboard engines. 303 00:23:11,047 --> 00:23:12,958 The stranger told the local fisherman 304 00:23:13,007 --> 00:23:15,646 that the equipment he was guarding was being tested 305 00:23:15,687 --> 00:23:19,043 for a top-secret expedition to Greenland. 306 00:23:19,087 --> 00:23:23,524 The waters of Cardigan Bay may be cold, but not that cold. 307 00:23:23,567 --> 00:23:25,558 Time to call the cops. 308 00:23:26,567 --> 00:23:33,803 The investigation splashed these quiet beaches across the headlines in 1 984. 309 00:23:33,847 --> 00:23:38,284 Wales at the heart of an international drugs ring. 310 00:23:40,007 --> 00:23:42,157 l'm heading back to the scene of the crime 311 00:23:42,207 --> 00:23:44,596 with Detectives Derek Davies 312 00:23:45,607 --> 00:23:47,404 and Don Evans. 313 00:23:48,927 --> 00:23:53,523 What did you think of the story that these were supplies for an expedition to Greenland? 314 00:23:53,567 --> 00:23:57,606 Well, to be perfectly honest, we thought it might have been a wild herring. 315 00:23:57,647 --> 00:24:00,844 lt wasn't the story that we were likely to believe for very long. 316 00:24:03,567 --> 00:24:07,162 Derek and Don knew something didn't smell right. 317 00:24:08,327 --> 00:24:11,876 30-odd years ago, the police beached their boat 318 00:24:11,927 --> 00:24:14,521 where the stranger had been spotted, 319 00:24:14,567 --> 00:24:16,444 and were surprised to find... 320 00:24:18,127 --> 00:24:19,116 ..nothing. 321 00:24:20,887 --> 00:24:22,445 There was just a plain piece of beach 322 00:24:22,487 --> 00:24:27,356 with lumps of equipment stored on it covered with black tarpaulin. 323 00:24:27,927 --> 00:24:31,636 When we went to look further into this cleft here, 324 00:24:31,687 --> 00:24:33,917 one of the boys picked up one of these big pebbles, 325 00:24:33,967 --> 00:24:35,366 for no good reason, 326 00:24:35,407 --> 00:24:38,558 dropped it, and it made a hollow sound. 327 00:24:38,607 --> 00:24:44,159 So the boys scrabbled about and they found a ship's hatch cover. 328 00:24:44,887 --> 00:24:47,276 - Underneath the stones? - Underneath the stones. 329 00:24:48,927 --> 00:24:53,842 NlCK: Hidden below the pebbles was an entrance to a criminal underworld. 330 00:24:53,887 --> 00:24:57,163 And under that was a seven-foot deep cavern, 331 00:24:57,207 --> 00:25:00,995 stretching 1 7 feet into the cleft of the rocks there. 332 00:25:06,447 --> 00:25:09,245 They couldn't believe their eyes. 333 00:25:09,287 --> 00:25:12,006 An Aladdin's cave of contraband, 334 00:25:12,047 --> 00:25:14,322 carved out beneath the beach. 335 00:25:15,647 --> 00:25:20,482 The detectives threw all their resources behind the investigation. 336 00:25:20,527 --> 00:25:21,960 Within months, 337 00:25:22,007 --> 00:25:26,444 Don and Derek had put several big-time drug barons behind bars, 338 00:25:26,487 --> 00:25:29,365 including Soeren Berg-Arnbak, 339 00:25:29,407 --> 00:25:34,435 a master of disguise known as Mr Rubber Face. 340 00:25:34,487 --> 00:25:37,479 He got eight years. 341 00:25:37,527 --> 00:25:42,157 lt's thought the plan was to smuggle Lebanese gold cannabis resin 342 00:25:42,207 --> 00:25:48,555 into Britain using an inflatable boat stored deflated in the beach hideaway. 343 00:25:50,367 --> 00:25:52,835 What happened to all the equipment that was found? 344 00:25:52,887 --> 00:25:55,117 Oh, well, we sold that. 345 00:25:55,167 --> 00:25:59,365 There's a brochure of the sale of the equipment that we found. 346 00:25:59,407 --> 00:26:02,638 What's in here? One, two, three, four... six shovels. 347 00:26:02,687 --> 00:26:04,439 Jump leads, bulbs. 348 00:26:04,487 --> 00:26:07,445 Batteries, drill bits, signalling mirrors. 349 00:26:07,487 --> 00:26:08,556 Look at all this. 350 00:26:08,607 --> 00:26:12,566 One, two, three, four, five, six, seven outboard engines. 351 00:26:13,647 --> 00:26:16,639 - So this wasn't just an amateur attempt? - No, no, no, no. 352 00:26:16,687 --> 00:26:20,805 - Very well planned. - Very well planned and very well executed. 353 00:26:20,847 --> 00:26:22,644 Very well detected, too! 354 00:26:32,127 --> 00:26:37,645 A remote cove in Wales was the perfect spot to squirrel away contraband. 355 00:26:38,647 --> 00:26:41,605 But sprinkled all around our shore, 356 00:26:41,647 --> 00:26:43,956 remarkable objects lie forgotten. 357 00:26:46,487 --> 00:26:49,320 Britain's beaches are the nation's attic, 358 00:26:49,367 --> 00:26:52,643 where our secret history lies in storage, 359 00:26:52,687 --> 00:26:55,360 waiting to be rediscovered. 360 00:26:57,767 --> 00:27:02,477 Those in search of lost treasures from the Second World War 361 00:27:02,527 --> 00:27:05,485 head out to Aberlady Bay. 362 00:27:16,087 --> 00:27:18,885 Naval historian Nick Hewitt 363 00:27:18,927 --> 00:27:23,762 is about to relive a rarely told tale of derring-do. 364 00:27:30,007 --> 00:27:32,726 NlCK HEWlTT: l am here to see one of the secret weapons 365 00:27:32,767 --> 00:27:34,405 of the Second World War. 366 00:27:34,447 --> 00:27:36,722 l've been looking forward to this for years. 367 00:27:40,207 --> 00:27:43,040 Submerged by seawater at high tide, 368 00:27:43,087 --> 00:27:47,842 this skeleton is the carcass of a top-secret miniature submarine. 369 00:27:47,887 --> 00:27:51,243 They were dubbed the X-Craft. 370 00:27:51,287 --> 00:27:55,246 That is absolutely amazing. lt is still recognisably an X-Craft. 371 00:27:55,287 --> 00:27:58,245 You can see that distinctive shape. 372 00:27:58,287 --> 00:28:00,005 lt looks like the bones of a dinosaur. 373 00:28:01,007 --> 00:28:04,716 Looking down the length, they're just absolutely tiny. 374 00:28:04,767 --> 00:28:08,476 Who on earth would want to go to sea in one of these? lt's extraordinary. 375 00:28:08,527 --> 00:28:12,440 Five men at a time would squeeze into these sardine cans, 376 00:28:12,487 --> 00:28:14,921 sometimes for days on end. 377 00:28:14,967 --> 00:28:17,322 And inside here is the diesel engine 378 00:28:17,367 --> 00:28:19,005 which you could only use on the surface 379 00:28:19,047 --> 00:28:22,517 because you need air to come and go and you need to vent exhaust gases. 380 00:28:22,567 --> 00:28:24,717 Then there was an electric motor which could be used 381 00:28:24,767 --> 00:28:26,678 when the boat was travelling submerged. 382 00:28:26,727 --> 00:28:28,479 Again, when you look back in the boat, 383 00:28:28,527 --> 00:28:32,122 you just get that sense of how terrifyingly small they are. 384 00:28:33,247 --> 00:28:37,445 Midget subs like this were built to attack mighty battleships. 385 00:28:37,487 --> 00:28:40,763 The tiny X-Craft humbled the pride of Hitler's navy, 386 00:28:40,807 --> 00:28:42,479 the Tirpitz. 387 00:28:44,567 --> 00:28:48,321 TV FOOTAGE: Heavily coated in steel, she carried eight 1 6-inch guns 388 00:28:48,367 --> 00:28:51,245 and 28 others of formidable strength. 389 00:28:51,287 --> 00:28:53,847 The Nazis bragged she was unsinkable. 390 00:28:55,007 --> 00:28:57,805 NlCK HEWlTT: She was launched by Adolf Hitler himself. 391 00:28:57,847 --> 00:29:01,522 By 1 943 she was positioned in a Norwegian fjord, 392 00:29:01,567 --> 00:29:04,479 a potent threat to Allied shipping. 393 00:29:08,047 --> 00:29:11,881 To take on the Tirpitz, the navy rushed the X-Craft into production. 394 00:29:12,927 --> 00:29:17,239 The crews took enormous risks in these experimental mini subs 395 00:29:17,287 --> 00:29:20,279 but they managed to release explosive charges 396 00:29:20,327 --> 00:29:22,124 under the hull of the Tirpitz. 397 00:29:24,127 --> 00:29:26,846 And as a result, the ship is so badly damaged, 398 00:29:26,887 --> 00:29:29,720 it's the end of her contribution to the Nazi war effort. 399 00:29:31,527 --> 00:29:33,438 The Tirpitz was crippled by the X-Craft 400 00:29:33,487 --> 00:29:36,559 and the fjord became her tomb. 401 00:29:37,847 --> 00:29:39,678 Bombers finished her off. 402 00:29:40,527 --> 00:29:44,281 TV FOOTAGE: The shadow of Nazi conquest shrinks from the north. 403 00:29:45,967 --> 00:29:48,083 NlCK HEWlTT: These wrecks at Aberlady Bay 404 00:29:48,127 --> 00:29:53,155 are X-Craft used to train more crews after the success against the Tirpitz. 405 00:29:53,207 --> 00:29:55,437 l'm going to meet a veteran submariner 406 00:29:55,487 --> 00:29:58,399 who tested these next-generation machines. 407 00:30:01,847 --> 00:30:04,884 Bill Morrison wasjust 1 9 years old 408 00:30:04,927 --> 00:30:07,839 when he first squeezed into a midget submarine. 409 00:30:08,927 --> 00:30:12,158 When you got down into it and couldn't stand upright 410 00:30:12,207 --> 00:30:15,358 and had to bend up double and almost crawl about, 411 00:30:15,407 --> 00:30:18,638 it was rather frightening, but exciting nevertheless. 412 00:30:19,847 --> 00:30:24,841 You just felt you were working in a broom cupboard under the stairs. 413 00:30:24,887 --> 00:30:27,082 Everything was very close at hand. 414 00:30:27,127 --> 00:30:29,800 You didn't have too much time to think about anything. 415 00:30:29,847 --> 00:30:32,839 You just got on with your job and did it to the best of your ability. 416 00:30:33,647 --> 00:30:37,356 NlCK HEWlTT: Bill Morrison is modest about his remarkable heroics. 417 00:30:37,407 --> 00:30:40,285 But it's a miracle he's here. 418 00:30:40,327 --> 00:30:43,444 Bill made a terrifying escape from an X-Craft 419 00:30:43,487 --> 00:30:46,365 that earned him a place in the record books. 420 00:30:46,407 --> 00:30:49,638 200 feet, underwater he fought for his life. 421 00:30:52,167 --> 00:30:55,204 BlLL: We were doing diving trials. 422 00:30:55,247 --> 00:30:58,762 All the time we were doing this, there was a boom defence vessel 423 00:30:58,807 --> 00:31:00,923 also operating in Loch Striven. 424 00:31:00,967 --> 00:31:06,599 And about 1 1 o'clock we had come up to a depth of about 40 or 30ft. 425 00:31:06,647 --> 00:31:09,639 At the same time, there was a terrible grating noise. 426 00:31:09,687 --> 00:31:11,723 And this grating noise was us. 427 00:31:11,767 --> 00:31:15,885 We had come up underneath the keel of the boom defence vessel. 428 00:31:15,927 --> 00:31:19,044 And then, at this million-to-one chance, 429 00:31:19,087 --> 00:31:22,523 she had finished her job and decided to start up her engines. 430 00:31:22,567 --> 00:31:26,116 She started up her engines and the propeller ripped a huge hole 431 00:31:26,167 --> 00:31:27,805 in our pressure hull. 432 00:31:27,847 --> 00:31:32,637 And a column of water about 1 2 inches broad came pouring into the control room. 433 00:31:35,927 --> 00:31:37,679 And the ERA, Swatton, 434 00:31:37,727 --> 00:31:41,037 he stuck his head and shoulders into the escape-tube chamber with me. 435 00:31:41,087 --> 00:31:43,647 He was trying to force open the hatch but couldn't. 436 00:31:43,687 --> 00:31:48,442 And l was breathing the last of the air in the corner of the escape chamber, 437 00:31:48,487 --> 00:31:50,239 which had, by this time, been compressed 438 00:31:50,287 --> 00:31:53,882 to the depth we were at, which was about 35 fathoms. 439 00:31:53,927 --> 00:31:55,724 l was breathing my last. 440 00:31:57,447 --> 00:32:00,484 And suddenly the boat righted itself 441 00:32:00,527 --> 00:32:02,404 and the hatch flew open. 442 00:32:02,447 --> 00:32:05,883 We both shot up but we were both jammed in the hatch. 443 00:32:05,927 --> 00:32:09,840 We were both stuck so l extricated myself and pushed him out. 444 00:32:09,887 --> 00:32:13,243 And then the last thing l remember was coming up, 445 00:32:13,287 --> 00:32:16,006 and knowing l was rising, trying to hold my breath 446 00:32:16,047 --> 00:32:19,164 but the water bubbles were pouring out of my mouth. 447 00:32:19,207 --> 00:32:20,640 And that's the last l remember. 448 00:32:25,047 --> 00:32:28,357 Bill was picked up by the boat that hit his X-Craft. 449 00:32:30,127 --> 00:32:34,882 His unaided escape from a submarine over 200 feet underwater 450 00:32:34,927 --> 00:32:38,124 is still the only one on record. 451 00:32:38,167 --> 00:32:43,002 Three of Bill's crew died that day in March 1 945. 452 00:32:46,087 --> 00:32:48,237 After the war, theirjob done, 453 00:32:48,287 --> 00:32:50,642 the X-Craft were decommissioned. 454 00:32:50,687 --> 00:32:53,520 Once so vital, now scrap metal. 455 00:32:54,847 --> 00:32:57,600 Their final battle was with the RAF 456 00:32:57,647 --> 00:32:59,877 in target practice here at Aberlady Bay, 457 00:33:02,087 --> 00:33:06,046 their secrets sinking into the sand with every bomb blast. 458 00:33:12,847 --> 00:33:16,635 So, Bill, how does it make you feel, thinking about those two XT-Craft 459 00:33:16,687 --> 00:33:19,247 lying forgotten on that beach in Aberlady? 460 00:33:19,287 --> 00:33:21,118 Yes, it's a pity 461 00:33:21,167 --> 00:33:23,362 that people don't know enough about them 462 00:33:23,407 --> 00:33:25,557 and why they are there and what they are, 463 00:33:25,607 --> 00:33:30,761 because they did fulfil a very important part during the war. 464 00:33:30,807 --> 00:33:34,516 lt's nice that there's still something of them to be seen and remembered. 465 00:33:46,487 --> 00:33:50,480 NlCK CRANE: Our beaches still keep the secrets of war. 466 00:34:00,247 --> 00:34:04,559 Of all the fortifications scattered around our shore, 467 00:34:04,607 --> 00:34:07,883 there's a site of special affection for me 468 00:34:07,927 --> 00:34:10,043 at Dungeness. 469 00:34:15,007 --> 00:34:18,477 These sound mirrors were built around 80 years ago 470 00:34:18,527 --> 00:34:22,805 to detect the engine noise of incoming enemy bombers. 471 00:34:24,367 --> 00:34:29,202 Before radar, the aim was to save lives by giving an early warning of attack. 472 00:34:31,167 --> 00:34:35,206 And in the shadow of these extraordinary relics 473 00:34:35,247 --> 00:34:38,284 live some other unlikely life-savers. 474 00:34:41,367 --> 00:34:45,997 Apparently, this crystal-clear pool conceals a dark secret - 475 00:34:46,047 --> 00:34:48,481 blood-sucking leeches. 476 00:34:49,647 --> 00:34:53,640 This odd beach at Dungeness is the top spot in England 477 00:34:53,687 --> 00:34:56,121 to meet a medicinal leech. 478 00:34:56,167 --> 00:35:00,080 The clear water is filtered through countless pebbles. 479 00:35:00,127 --> 00:35:03,164 According to the warden, Owen Leyshon, 480 00:35:03,207 --> 00:35:07,883 the best way to get acquainted is to step into the leeches'lair. 481 00:35:08,887 --> 00:35:13,039 So how does the leech know that there's some good food in the water? 482 00:35:13,087 --> 00:35:16,523 Well, they are looking for disturbance, low-velocity waves. 483 00:35:16,567 --> 00:35:17,556 Like these ones? 484 00:35:17,607 --> 00:35:19,882 Yes, so we're disturbing the water here. 485 00:35:19,927 --> 00:35:23,476 The leeches are now homing in at the disturbance. 486 00:35:23,527 --> 00:35:26,121 and they're looking for a nice big blood meal. 487 00:35:27,567 --> 00:35:30,957 They will feed on things like mute swans, 488 00:35:31,007 --> 00:35:33,567 coots, some duck, 489 00:35:33,607 --> 00:35:35,359 or frogs or newts or fish. 490 00:35:35,407 --> 00:35:37,557 So they're not that interested in human blood? 491 00:35:37,607 --> 00:35:40,360 Oh, yeah. They'll have a go at us. 492 00:35:40,407 --> 00:35:43,444 NlCK: Not really the answer l wanted. 493 00:35:43,487 --> 00:35:45,603 How many leeches are in here? 494 00:35:45,647 --> 00:35:47,205 Tens of thousands. 495 00:35:47,247 --> 00:35:51,525 Tens of thousands of medicinal leeches in this particular gravel pit itself. 496 00:35:52,527 --> 00:35:57,396 NlCK: Each one has three jaws and 300 teeth. 497 00:35:58,407 --> 00:36:02,082 So l'm not too disappointed they don't find me too tempting. 498 00:36:03,287 --> 00:36:06,006 But Owen's not letting me off the hook. 499 00:36:06,047 --> 00:36:08,686 Stored in a jar, he's got a little biter. 500 00:36:10,527 --> 00:36:12,961 When they find a place to bite, 501 00:36:13,007 --> 00:36:16,238 they will set about releasing, within their bite 502 00:36:16,287 --> 00:36:19,757 in their saliva, an anticoagulant, 503 00:36:19,807 --> 00:36:21,206 an anaesthetic, 504 00:36:21,247 --> 00:36:25,286 so that the blood will keep flowing while they're trying to take the blood out. 505 00:36:25,327 --> 00:36:30,355 And along the course of the body itself, it's got about 32 brains 506 00:36:30,407 --> 00:36:32,682 and five pairs of eyes at the head end. 507 00:36:32,727 --> 00:36:34,763 An amazing creature. 508 00:36:34,807 --> 00:36:38,561 NlCK: Leeches thrive in these protected pools 509 00:36:38,607 --> 00:36:41,201 but they're rare elsewhere in Britain, 510 00:36:41,247 --> 00:36:44,239 scooped up centuries ago. 511 00:36:44,287 --> 00:36:49,122 ln the early 1 800s, medicinal leeches were seen as a miracle cure, 512 00:36:49,167 --> 00:36:53,479 used to treat everything from bruised toes to insanity. 513 00:36:54,047 --> 00:36:58,563 Even today, they're still on call in our hospitals. 514 00:36:58,607 --> 00:37:00,916 To give you an idea, if you chop your finger off 515 00:37:00,967 --> 00:37:04,084 in a kitchen accident while you're chopping the vegetables up 516 00:37:04,127 --> 00:37:08,564 and take your finger to the hospital in a bag of iced peas, 517 00:37:08,607 --> 00:37:10,120 you'll have your finger sewn back on 518 00:37:10,167 --> 00:37:13,876 but quite often they would have a course of leeches put on the tip of your finger 519 00:37:13,927 --> 00:37:17,886 to draw the blood back up through your finger. 520 00:37:17,927 --> 00:37:19,519 NlCK: What a remarkable animal. 521 00:37:19,567 --> 00:37:24,402 When you first took it out of the jar, l experienced that shiver of revulsion 522 00:37:24,447 --> 00:37:27,803 which l am sure is common to a lot of people when they see their first leech. 523 00:37:27,847 --> 00:37:31,806 l've never seen one before but, actually, they are remarkable. 524 00:37:31,847 --> 00:37:37,444 NlCK: Time for this guy to get back to a secret life in pursuit of blood. 525 00:37:37,487 --> 00:37:40,638 - ls this where we release them? - This is where they're going to go. 526 00:37:40,687 --> 00:37:45,044 We've got a little frog there. He senses the leeches are on their way. 527 00:38:05,927 --> 00:38:11,445 NlCK: We're in search of secrets from the beaches surrounding the British lsles. 528 00:38:12,567 --> 00:38:18,039 Landlubbers are used to mysterious messages suddenly appearing. 529 00:38:19,047 --> 00:38:23,677 But recently they've also started to crop up on the coast. 530 00:38:24,887 --> 00:38:28,675 Beaches are becoming art installations, 531 00:38:28,727 --> 00:38:31,446 as they know on Jersey. 532 00:38:38,807 --> 00:38:42,004 Hermione is on the island to discover the secrets 533 00:38:42,047 --> 00:38:46,325 of creating spectacular statements in sand. 534 00:38:48,607 --> 00:38:52,486 Some see these wide open spaces as inspiration for art 535 00:38:52,527 --> 00:38:55,803 on a truly massive scale. 536 00:38:55,847 --> 00:38:58,361 This is a blank canvas, 537 00:38:58,407 --> 00:39:01,240 just waiting to be brought to life. 538 00:39:06,927 --> 00:39:10,840 l'm here for the world beach art championships. 539 00:39:10,887 --> 00:39:14,596 The challenge is to produce colossal creations, 540 00:39:15,727 --> 00:39:17,843 best seen from the sky. 541 00:39:21,087 --> 00:39:24,523 The competitors have come from far and wide. 542 00:39:24,567 --> 00:39:28,640 Meet French artist, Sam Dougados, 543 00:39:28,687 --> 00:39:31,360 British artist Andy Coutanche, 544 00:39:33,127 --> 00:39:36,278 and American artist Andres Amador. 545 00:39:41,607 --> 00:39:45,919 Andres believes the beach itself tells him what to draw. 546 00:39:45,967 --> 00:39:48,845 So what are the sands of Jersey saying to him? 547 00:39:50,167 --> 00:39:52,078 l see this cave 548 00:39:52,127 --> 00:39:55,722 that looks like a big mouth, like it's shouting something. 549 00:39:55,767 --> 00:39:57,758 l see all these rocks 550 00:39:57,807 --> 00:39:59,206 and little passageways. 551 00:39:59,247 --> 00:40:02,284 Doesn't it feel like something is coming out of this? 552 00:40:02,327 --> 00:40:04,079 Do you feel that? 553 00:40:05,087 --> 00:40:08,124 You see, as a geologist, l'm thinking totally in reverse, actually. 554 00:40:08,167 --> 00:40:10,317 - lt's going in. - Ah, interesting. 555 00:40:11,207 --> 00:40:14,244 HERMlONE: Andres has certainly got a grand vision, 556 00:40:14,287 --> 00:40:17,040 but just now, l'm struggling to see it myself. 557 00:40:22,967 --> 00:40:25,481 Time to catch up with our French contender. 558 00:40:25,527 --> 00:40:29,122 ls he planning his design ahead of time, like Andres? 559 00:40:29,167 --> 00:40:31,283 SAM: Honestly? Not really. 560 00:40:32,207 --> 00:40:34,960 l had an idea 561 00:40:35,007 --> 00:40:36,918 but l'm not sure. 562 00:40:36,967 --> 00:40:39,197 Just before l had a look at the area 563 00:40:39,247 --> 00:40:43,240 but l think it will be a lot of improvisation. 564 00:40:44,447 --> 00:40:49,157 Two times in three, l come on the beach without knowing what l will do. 565 00:40:49,207 --> 00:40:53,086 Because the beach is always different. You almost don't have any limits. 566 00:40:53,127 --> 00:40:55,357 lt's a perfect place. 567 00:40:55,407 --> 00:40:57,443 So Sam's going free-form. 568 00:40:58,127 --> 00:41:00,766 For local artist Andy Coutanche, 569 00:41:00,807 --> 00:41:03,002 it's his tools that do the talking. 570 00:41:08,247 --> 00:41:11,125 So tell me about the rake? Anything special about the way you use it? 571 00:41:11,167 --> 00:41:12,566 Or this particular rake? 572 00:41:12,607 --> 00:41:15,724 This rake was my great-grandfather's rake, 573 00:41:15,767 --> 00:41:17,758 which is just a normal garden rake, l believe. 574 00:41:17,807 --> 00:41:19,399 l think it's about 1 00 years old. 575 00:41:19,447 --> 00:41:22,200 But that's it? Just you and your great-grandfather's rake? 576 00:41:22,247 --> 00:41:24,807 - To create something like this? - Yes. 577 00:41:26,487 --> 00:41:28,443 Now the competition is in full swing, 578 00:41:28,487 --> 00:41:32,844 they have just two hours before the tide washes their work away. 579 00:41:34,887 --> 00:41:37,401 Can l have a go? Can you show me how to do it? 580 00:41:42,087 --> 00:41:45,318 l can just about handle Andy's low-tech approach. 581 00:41:46,887 --> 00:41:51,642 But on the next beach, Andres is more precise. 582 00:41:51,687 --> 00:41:56,636 With his 21 st century rake, he stencils shapes into the sand, 583 00:41:56,687 --> 00:42:00,885 a template of his detailed plan to make this cave creation. 584 00:42:02,687 --> 00:42:07,841 Now you're getting privy to the design, the design elements anyway. 585 00:42:10,207 --> 00:42:16,885 All over Jersey, the beaches are coming alive in this huge pop-up art exhibition. 586 00:42:16,927 --> 00:42:18,918 Do you ever rub anything out and start again? 587 00:42:18,967 --> 00:42:21,800 Sometimes, yeah. You can just go like that, you know. 588 00:42:21,847 --> 00:42:23,917 Yeah, l'm not sure about that one! 589 00:42:25,967 --> 00:42:27,923 As the tide rolls in, 590 00:42:27,967 --> 00:42:29,958 their time is nearly up. 591 00:42:30,007 --> 00:42:32,237 To really see the spectacle, 592 00:42:32,287 --> 00:42:35,040 l need to go skywards. 593 00:42:40,327 --> 00:42:44,525 From up here, the secret stencils come together. 594 00:42:44,567 --> 00:42:49,357 Now Andres'cave creation finally makes beautiful sense. 595 00:42:51,407 --> 00:42:52,442 Wow! 596 00:42:52,487 --> 00:42:54,682 From up here, you get the most fantastic view. 597 00:42:54,727 --> 00:42:58,686 You can see the most beautiful patterns that he's done. 598 00:42:58,727 --> 00:43:03,198 And particularly, he's used the cave, as he said he would, 599 00:43:03,247 --> 00:43:05,841 with the art emerging out of the mouth of the cave. 600 00:43:11,247 --> 00:43:13,841 - ls that him actually standing there? - He's in one. 601 00:43:13,887 --> 00:43:17,880 Andres, l think, is actually standing in the centre of one of his motifs. 602 00:43:24,367 --> 00:43:26,961 So we're just going to fly down the west of the island now 603 00:43:27,007 --> 00:43:29,123 and we'll be able to see Andy Coutanche's work 604 00:43:29,167 --> 00:43:32,364 and we'll be able to see whether the bits that l did for Andy 605 00:43:32,407 --> 00:43:34,523 are visible or not. 606 00:43:34,567 --> 00:43:36,285 l hope they don't spoil it. 607 00:43:40,967 --> 00:43:45,006 That's interesting. lt really looks part of the beach. 608 00:43:45,047 --> 00:43:49,882 lt almost looks like the trail of something trailing around in the sand. 609 00:43:57,447 --> 00:43:59,881 But it seems making it up on the day 610 00:43:59,927 --> 00:44:02,964 hasn't held back French contender Sam. 611 00:44:03,007 --> 00:44:05,919 His circles may look modest from the sky 612 00:44:05,967 --> 00:44:09,676 but their simplicity and precision has impressed the judges 613 00:44:09,727 --> 00:44:11,877 who have awarded him first place. 614 00:44:16,207 --> 00:44:19,597 There's something rather ancient, mysterious and magical about this one. 615 00:44:20,807 --> 00:44:24,163 lt really does look like that has survived many tides 616 00:44:24,207 --> 00:44:26,482 and yet it will just be washed away. 617 00:44:31,047 --> 00:44:32,446 For now, at least, 618 00:44:32,487 --> 00:44:37,356 Jersey's secret studios turn back to sand and stone. 619 00:44:37,407 --> 00:44:41,195 But the vision is one l'll always remember. 620 00:44:49,607 --> 00:44:54,044 NlCK: We all like to leave our mark on the beach. 621 00:44:54,087 --> 00:44:56,601 Some have left a lasting impression 622 00:44:56,647 --> 00:44:59,525 which you can't miss at Dungeness. 623 00:45:02,167 --> 00:45:07,525 All sorts of odd structures have sprouted up from the pebbles over the years. 624 00:45:08,367 --> 00:45:12,360 Within a stone's throw of the nuclear power plant 625 00:45:12,407 --> 00:45:14,523 lie relics from the early railways 626 00:45:14,567 --> 00:45:17,240 that found a new lease of life. 627 00:45:17,887 --> 00:45:20,560 When times were hard in the 1 920s, 628 00:45:20,607 --> 00:45:25,317 old train carriages were converted into compact holiday homes. 629 00:45:25,887 --> 00:45:29,402 And they're still standing small on the shingle. 630 00:45:31,687 --> 00:45:34,485 Looks like this one's had a few mod cons attached. 631 00:45:35,967 --> 00:45:37,958 - Hello, Paddy. - Hello there. 632 00:45:38,007 --> 00:45:40,396 - This is very Robinson Crusoe. - Welcome aboard. 633 00:45:40,447 --> 00:45:43,962 - Thank you. - Come through, please. 634 00:45:46,287 --> 00:45:48,517 So here we are in the railway carriage. 635 00:45:48,567 --> 00:45:51,365 All aboard the train now leaving platform Dungeness. 636 00:45:51,407 --> 00:45:53,238 - That's correct. - lt's fantastic. 637 00:45:53,287 --> 00:45:56,597 There may be a small delay of 1 20 years. 638 00:45:56,647 --> 00:45:59,366 NlCK: How much do you know about this original railway carriage? 639 00:45:59,407 --> 00:46:03,878 Well, it's an 1 880s non-smoking, first-class Pullman from the New Cross line. 640 00:46:03,927 --> 00:46:07,840 So, once upon a time, this was chuntering through suburban London? 641 00:46:07,887 --> 00:46:08,876 Absolutely. 642 00:46:08,927 --> 00:46:12,966 What's it like living in a railway carriage on one of the biggest beaches in Britain? 643 00:46:13,007 --> 00:46:17,637 Well, it's very freeing because we look out in the widescreen style 644 00:46:17,687 --> 00:46:21,760 at a sort of ever-evolving landscape 645 00:46:21,807 --> 00:46:24,640 of clouds and plants and flora. 646 00:46:24,687 --> 00:46:27,838 And we have a fantastic lilac time. 647 00:46:27,887 --> 00:46:30,845 They call it the hum here where there's a pinkish light 648 00:46:30,887 --> 00:46:33,845 that interferes with the light that's bounced up from the stones. 649 00:46:35,447 --> 00:46:37,836 You never get used to that. lt's beautiful. 650 00:46:37,887 --> 00:46:41,482 NlCK: You are very exposed here. The next bit of land over there is France. 651 00:46:41,527 --> 00:46:43,722 - lt is. - And there's nothing to interrupt 652 00:46:43,767 --> 00:46:46,839 the wind, the gales that come charging out of the English Channel. 653 00:46:46,887 --> 00:46:50,641 Well, you want to feel that you exist within the landscape, 654 00:46:50,687 --> 00:46:53,121 not simply glimpsing it on the way by. 655 00:46:53,807 --> 00:46:56,275 This other-worldly view 656 00:46:56,327 --> 00:46:59,603 is tailor-made for an artist like Paddy. 657 00:47:00,927 --> 00:47:04,920 The secret life of the beach inspires his paintings. 658 00:47:08,287 --> 00:47:11,962 Today the paintbrushes have been put aside. 659 00:47:12,007 --> 00:47:16,046 He's about to discover if his latest lino print will make the grade. 660 00:47:17,167 --> 00:47:18,919 And now... 661 00:47:18,967 --> 00:47:22,642 the thing you never get bored of because of the anticipation. 662 00:47:22,687 --> 00:47:24,962 Do you still get a thrill when you lift every work out? 663 00:47:25,007 --> 00:47:30,365 Every time, because you don't want to waste the paper. You love the paper. 664 00:47:30,407 --> 00:47:32,841 So here we go. 665 00:47:32,887 --> 00:47:34,320 Paddy, that's fantastic. 666 00:47:34,367 --> 00:47:37,439 PADD Y: Not totally perfect, but close. 667 00:47:37,487 --> 00:47:41,799 This seems to me to be a definitive Dungeness image 668 00:47:41,847 --> 00:47:45,840 of the shack, the wind-blown shack about to collapse. 669 00:47:52,407 --> 00:47:57,879 These sheds were witness to the passage of time, fishing families. 670 00:47:57,927 --> 00:48:00,964 The way that the beach takes things back. 671 00:48:01,007 --> 00:48:06,127 l like to see marks of human endeavour. 672 00:48:06,167 --> 00:48:09,045 NlCK: And there don't seem to be any boundaries here. 673 00:48:09,087 --> 00:48:10,998 There are very few fences. 674 00:48:11,047 --> 00:48:13,561 You can all wander at will across this vast open space. 675 00:48:13,607 --> 00:48:16,440 PADD Y: lt is a beach and the beach is for people. 676 00:48:16,487 --> 00:48:20,196 You have a kind of a notional boundary of someone's right to privacy 677 00:48:20,247 --> 00:48:22,841 but the rest of the beach is yours to wander upon. 678 00:48:24,647 --> 00:48:29,562 NlCK: To most of us, beaches are precious places of leisure. 679 00:48:29,607 --> 00:48:34,556 But coastal folk know the secret to a successful life out here 680 00:48:34,607 --> 00:48:37,246 is working with the landscape. 681 00:48:39,407 --> 00:48:43,446 Not everyone can trade on the beauty of our shore. 682 00:48:43,487 --> 00:48:48,766 Making a living can mean a compromise between the picturesque and the practical. 683 00:48:50,367 --> 00:48:53,803 Development is a challenge all around our coast. 684 00:48:54,967 --> 00:48:58,755 Nowhere more so than at Port Talbot. 685 00:49:06,567 --> 00:49:10,879 Welcome to a wilderness of remarkable natural splendour... 686 00:49:12,967 --> 00:49:15,879 ..with a surprise in store for Tessa. 687 00:49:17,927 --> 00:49:20,157 There aren't many beaches like this in Britain. 688 00:49:20,207 --> 00:49:23,517 Behind me it's deserted sands and wild sea 689 00:49:23,567 --> 00:49:26,286 but in front of me it's big business. 690 00:49:27,087 --> 00:49:29,362 On an industrial scale. 691 00:49:37,567 --> 00:49:39,683 TESSA: Millions of tonnes of steel a year 692 00:49:39,727 --> 00:49:42,161 roll out of this Port Talbot plant. 693 00:49:42,207 --> 00:49:47,201 A cathedral of industry some 60 years in the making, 694 00:49:47,247 --> 00:49:50,956 it reinvented the rules of construction. 695 00:49:51,007 --> 00:49:54,841 This mighty empire of steel is built on sand. 696 00:49:55,927 --> 00:50:01,445 With no firm foundations, it was an epic struggle to complete the plant. 697 00:50:03,687 --> 00:50:05,996 The port of Port Talbot 698 00:50:06,047 --> 00:50:09,881 makes sense of putting the steelworks on the shoreline. 699 00:50:09,927 --> 00:50:13,920 Mountains of raw material arrive by sea 700 00:50:13,967 --> 00:50:17,846 and the finished metal goes out the same way. 701 00:50:17,887 --> 00:50:24,156 But putting a building site on a beach defied long-established orthodoxy. 702 00:50:24,207 --> 00:50:27,597 The wisdom of old warns against constructing on sand. 703 00:50:27,647 --> 00:50:30,719 Open your Bible at Matthew, chapter 7, 704 00:50:30,767 --> 00:50:33,759 verses 26 and 27. 705 00:50:33,807 --> 00:50:37,083 ''A foolish man that built his house upon the sand 706 00:50:37,127 --> 00:50:39,800 and the rain fell and the floods came 707 00:50:39,847 --> 00:50:43,044 and the wind blew and they beat upon that house, 708 00:50:43,087 --> 00:50:47,046 and it fell and great was the fall.'' 709 00:50:47,727 --> 00:50:54,917 So how do you build a steelworks on something as soft and as shifting as this? 710 00:50:56,767 --> 00:51:00,237 Engineer David French is going to let me in on the secret, 711 00:51:00,287 --> 00:51:02,596 using bricks and sticks. 712 00:51:02,647 --> 00:51:05,081 These blocks are representing the plant 713 00:51:05,127 --> 00:51:08,403 and the buildings and the heavy machinery. 714 00:51:08,447 --> 00:51:10,961 TESSA: l can see them sinking in already. 715 00:51:11,007 --> 00:51:14,283 DAVlD: As it builds up, you're going to get settlement, 716 00:51:14,327 --> 00:51:15,840 then eventually failure. 717 00:51:15,887 --> 00:51:17,525 TESSA: Total failure. - No good. 718 00:51:18,567 --> 00:51:22,037 TESSA: Shifting sand wasn't the builders'only enemy. 719 00:51:22,087 --> 00:51:26,205 Below the surface lies soggy, unstable brown peat. 720 00:51:27,447 --> 00:51:31,406 So how do you get round this problem of building on soft sand and peat? 721 00:51:31,447 --> 00:51:34,166 What we need are deep foundations called piles. 722 00:51:34,207 --> 00:51:37,597 What we're doing is pushing the pile through the sand 723 00:51:37,647 --> 00:51:40,161 and through the thick layer of peat 724 00:51:40,207 --> 00:51:44,246 down into this secure founding stratum at the bottom. 725 00:51:44,287 --> 00:51:46,198 This is the clay sticky bit? 726 00:51:46,247 --> 00:51:49,637 This will be a mixture of stiff clay, gravels and sand. 727 00:51:49,687 --> 00:51:51,484 TESSA: And that holds the stilt in place? 728 00:51:51,527 --> 00:51:53,563 - That's it. You got it. - l see. 729 00:51:53,607 --> 00:51:57,520 So can we replicate what was once done here at Port Talbot? 730 00:51:57,567 --> 00:51:59,876 Well, hopefully we can, Tess. Yeah, let's try. 731 00:52:01,727 --> 00:52:03,718 TESSA: l think l'm hitting some sticky clay. 732 00:52:03,767 --> 00:52:05,564 DAVlD: Yeah. 733 00:52:05,607 --> 00:52:10,203 Now, hopefully, we've got our stilts in and we can put our building on top. 734 00:52:10,247 --> 00:52:12,886 - Do you want to have a go? - l do, yes. 735 00:52:15,527 --> 00:52:16,926 And another one. 736 00:52:16,967 --> 00:52:21,563 - So who says you can't build on sand? - Yes, it can be done. 737 00:52:21,607 --> 00:52:25,486 How many of these piles were driven into the site here at Port Talbot? 738 00:52:25,527 --> 00:52:30,840 Well, amazingly, 33,000 of these piles were installed across the site. 739 00:52:33,047 --> 00:52:36,483 TESSA: Work on the steel plant began in 1 947, 740 00:52:36,527 --> 00:52:39,644 part of rebuilding Britain after the war. 741 00:52:39,687 --> 00:52:47,037 The mammoth task of driving over 30,000 piles over 50 feet down into solid clay 742 00:52:47,087 --> 00:52:49,282 didn't just scar the landscape. 743 00:52:49,327 --> 00:52:53,286 The deafening noise still rings in the ears of Doug Hockin. 744 00:52:53,327 --> 00:52:54,840 The first memory l have was as a child, 745 00:52:54,887 --> 00:53:01,360 sitting the 1 1-Plus exams for the local secondary schools here. 746 00:53:01,407 --> 00:53:03,159 We were sitting the exams 747 00:53:03,207 --> 00:53:05,767 and you could hear the piles being driven outside. 748 00:53:05,807 --> 00:53:07,798 (Banging) 749 00:53:09,167 --> 00:53:10,646 DOUG: But you weren't aware then 750 00:53:10,687 --> 00:53:15,397 that the biggest works in Europe were being built. 751 00:53:15,447 --> 00:53:17,199 (Banging) 752 00:53:20,087 --> 00:53:24,399 TESSA: Doug swapped school for a life in steel, like thousands of others. 753 00:53:26,087 --> 00:53:29,841 Boys have been forged into men here since the early 1 950s 754 00:53:29,887 --> 00:53:33,482 when steel first rolled out over the sand. 755 00:53:34,887 --> 00:53:37,481 To feed the relentless rolling mills, 756 00:53:37,527 --> 00:53:41,839 a steady stream of resources flowed into the plant. 757 00:53:41,887 --> 00:53:43,718 With cargo carriers getting bigger, 758 00:53:43,767 --> 00:53:47,282 in the mid 1 960s a new deep-water harbour 759 00:53:47,327 --> 00:53:49,602 began construction. 760 00:53:49,647 --> 00:53:55,563 Now coal comes halfway around the world from Australia to South Wales. 761 00:53:56,767 --> 00:53:59,725 The scale of this enterprise is staggering 762 00:53:59,767 --> 00:54:03,157 and building on a beach brought another benefit, 763 00:54:03,207 --> 00:54:04,356 room to grow. 764 00:54:05,967 --> 00:54:09,846 Rolling out sheet steel needs space and lots of it. 765 00:54:14,007 --> 00:54:17,841 The process starts off with a slab ten metres long. 766 00:54:17,887 --> 00:54:22,836 And that ten-metre slab ends up as a 1 ,000-metre length coil. 767 00:54:22,887 --> 00:54:25,481 The length of the mill from its furnaces to the coilers 768 00:54:25,527 --> 00:54:28,087 is approximately half a mile. 769 00:54:31,407 --> 00:54:36,879 For 60 years a ribbon of steel has threaded through the community of Port Talbot. 770 00:54:36,927 --> 00:54:41,523 Like the cathedrals of old, this place is the life's work of generations, 771 00:54:41,567 --> 00:54:44,764 as foreman Steve Williams can testify. 772 00:54:46,207 --> 00:54:49,324 My grandfather started off in the steelworks, 773 00:54:49,367 --> 00:54:51,198 my father, 774 00:54:51,247 --> 00:54:53,238 obviously myself after my father. 775 00:54:53,287 --> 00:54:56,438 My daughter is working here now. She's in supplies. 776 00:54:56,487 --> 00:54:59,081 And my grandson is just starting his apprenticeship here. 777 00:54:59,127 --> 00:55:02,324 - Your grandson as well? - My grandson, so that's five generations. 778 00:55:03,127 --> 00:55:08,247 At its peak, over 1 8,000 people were employed at the plant. 779 00:55:09,847 --> 00:55:12,645 New workers needed new homes. 780 00:55:16,647 --> 00:55:19,605 The houses were built where the dunes had once stood 781 00:55:19,647 --> 00:55:22,207 and the estate was named Sandfields. 782 00:55:31,087 --> 00:55:33,476 The sea view sells itself. 783 00:55:33,527 --> 00:55:39,523 But heavy industry doesn't figure on the wish list for most people's ideal location. 784 00:55:39,567 --> 00:55:42,127 Embracing Welsh weather, 785 00:55:42,167 --> 00:55:45,079 l'm meeting the ladies who have lived with the steelworks 786 00:55:45,127 --> 00:55:48,085 since the good times started to roll. 787 00:55:48,127 --> 00:55:50,118 This place was known as Treasure lsland 788 00:55:50,167 --> 00:55:54,957 because there was so much money being generated by the steelworks. 789 00:55:55,007 --> 00:55:57,680 l was earning three pounds something 790 00:55:57,727 --> 00:56:00,321 and then l went to the steel company to earn about eight pounds. 791 00:56:00,367 --> 00:56:04,201 TESSA: Wow, that's some promotion, more than doubling your salary! 792 00:56:04,247 --> 00:56:08,638 So many people came when the steel company was becoming bigger. 793 00:56:08,687 --> 00:56:11,838 And they came from Scotland and England and lreland. 794 00:56:11,887 --> 00:56:15,038 And most of those people never went back to their roots. 795 00:56:15,087 --> 00:56:16,998 They stayed in Port Talbot. 796 00:56:17,047 --> 00:56:18,560 For me, 797 00:56:18,607 --> 00:56:22,077 Port Talbot people are Port Talbot. 798 00:56:22,127 --> 00:56:24,561 - You know. TESSA: Quite cosmopolitan, really. 799 00:56:24,607 --> 00:56:28,759 - They're wonderful people, l think. - l think it's the best place in the world. 800 00:56:31,847 --> 00:56:34,839 People are proud of this mighty achievement 801 00:56:34,887 --> 00:56:37,401 built on the swirling sands. 802 00:56:37,447 --> 00:56:42,885 lt's something stronger than steel that binds the community in place here. 803 00:56:49,767 --> 00:56:53,043 The real secret is the spirit of generations 804 00:56:53,087 --> 00:56:57,797 who have grown up rock solid around the steelworks. 805 00:56:58,887 --> 00:57:02,402 To look at the steel plant might not be everyone's cup of tea 806 00:57:02,447 --> 00:57:06,725 but l've discovered that here in Port Talbot it's at the heart of the community. 807 00:57:06,767 --> 00:57:08,723 lt means everything. 808 00:57:28,047 --> 00:57:31,119 NlCK: Work, rest and play 809 00:57:31,167 --> 00:57:34,000 are all part of Britain's beach life. 810 00:57:43,087 --> 00:57:48,764 Whether you want to lounge on the sand or explore its secrets, 811 00:57:48,807 --> 00:57:51,799 our coast doesn't disappoint. 812 00:57:53,487 --> 00:57:55,682 We each have our favourite beach. 813 00:57:57,007 --> 00:58:01,797 For me, this landscape at Dungeness is special indeed. 814 00:58:02,967 --> 00:58:04,559 Bizarre, certainly... 815 00:58:06,687 --> 00:58:09,326 ..but with undeniable beauty. 816 00:58:10,407 --> 00:58:15,003 Dungeness is one of the strangest beaches l know. 817 00:58:15,047 --> 00:58:19,040 But they're all strange, quite unlike the rest of our island. 818 00:58:19,087 --> 00:58:21,840 They're open spaces, free spaces, 819 00:58:21,887 --> 00:58:23,798 without fences or walls. 820 00:58:23,847 --> 00:58:26,680 Beaches are where we come to feel the coast, 821 00:58:26,727 --> 00:58:28,604 feel the ocean between our toes, 822 00:58:28,647 --> 00:58:34,324 and listen to stories that go back billions of years, our island's stories.