1 00:00:02,000 --> 00:00:03,480 'Six cooks... 2 00:00:03,480 --> 00:00:05,280 '..six countries, 3 00:00:05,280 --> 00:00:07,760 'six incredible journeys.' 4 00:00:09,880 --> 00:00:10,960 Ah! 5 00:00:10,960 --> 00:00:13,560 'Stepping outside their comfort zones...' 6 00:00:14,640 --> 00:00:17,680 It's not for the faint-hearted for sure. 7 00:00:17,680 --> 00:00:20,520 '..our cooks will travel far and wide...' 8 00:00:20,520 --> 00:00:22,480 Route 7 all the way. 9 00:00:23,440 --> 00:00:27,320 '..to find some of the most exciting food on the planet.' 10 00:00:27,320 --> 00:00:28,640 If you're back in the UK, 11 00:00:28,640 --> 00:00:31,200 you've got Tandoori chicken, nothing like this. 12 00:00:32,560 --> 00:00:35,400 It's beautiful. This is the best food I've had in Egypt. 13 00:00:35,400 --> 00:00:39,120 It's pure, it's got heritage, it's got love in it, you know. 14 00:00:39,120 --> 00:00:41,840 'They'll go off the beaten track...' 15 00:00:41,840 --> 00:00:44,360 Crocodile! Crocodile sausages. 16 00:00:44,360 --> 00:00:47,120 '..meeting extraordinary people... 17 00:00:48,160 --> 00:00:51,960 '..exploring ways of life unchanged for centuries.' 18 00:00:51,960 --> 00:00:55,720 No electric blenders in the jungle, have to do everything by hand. 19 00:00:57,440 --> 00:00:59,840 Take your life into your own hands, we're on the road now. 20 00:01:00,880 --> 00:01:03,360 'As they travel, they'll see how the language of food 21 00:01:03,360 --> 00:01:05,920 'transcends cultural differences.' 22 00:01:05,920 --> 00:01:07,560 I've never huffed on a cheese before. 23 00:01:07,560 --> 00:01:09,400 'And a world away from home.' 24 00:01:09,400 --> 00:01:12,160 This is why I love Australia. 25 00:01:12,160 --> 00:01:14,440 There's no excuse for a bad pie in Australia. No. 26 00:01:14,440 --> 00:01:16,920 This is the beginning. Where do we end? 27 00:01:16,920 --> 00:01:20,800 'They'll learn lessons that could change the way we cook forever.' 28 00:01:20,800 --> 00:01:24,480 I've been cooking a barbecue wrongly all my life. 29 00:01:25,640 --> 00:01:26,880 Wow! 30 00:01:32,560 --> 00:01:37,400 'This time, Scottish chef Tony Singh heads to India to explore the country 31 00:01:37,400 --> 00:01:39,280 'of his ancestors.' 32 00:01:39,280 --> 00:01:41,440 And it feels fantastic. 33 00:01:41,440 --> 00:01:44,280 'He'll eat and cook his way across the region.' 34 00:01:45,480 --> 00:01:47,640 I'm not good at this cooking lark. 35 00:01:47,640 --> 00:01:50,560 'From the Punjabi pit stops, 36 00:01:50,560 --> 00:01:52,480 'to the tables of the maharajahs. 37 00:01:53,760 --> 00:01:56,920 'He'll find his way to the heart of his own family's history...' 38 00:01:57,920 --> 00:02:00,720 I can't even imagine what hardships they went through. 39 00:02:00,720 --> 00:02:03,760 '..and unleash his inner Bollywood star.' 40 00:02:12,760 --> 00:02:14,440 I'm Tony Singh. 41 00:02:14,440 --> 00:02:18,960 People see me as an Indian because this is the quintessential look 42 00:02:18,960 --> 00:02:22,800 of an Indian from the maharajah - turban, beard, lovely tan. 43 00:02:23,800 --> 00:02:26,840 But I was born in Scotland and I've lived here all my life. 44 00:02:28,480 --> 00:02:30,840 And now I want to see if I can fit in in India. 45 00:02:30,840 --> 00:02:33,480 I want to go and immerse myself in India 46 00:02:33,480 --> 00:02:35,280 and see if I can get away with it. 47 00:02:36,320 --> 00:02:39,880 I've been in the restaurant business for 22 years. 48 00:02:39,880 --> 00:02:43,400 My style of food is not curry. 49 00:02:43,400 --> 00:02:46,360 I'm a classically-trained chef. 50 00:02:46,360 --> 00:02:49,120 It's always been about local produce, Scottish produce, 51 00:02:49,120 --> 00:02:50,520 French technique. 52 00:02:50,520 --> 00:02:53,200 What I do know about Indian food comes from my mum 53 00:02:53,200 --> 00:02:55,920 and even she's a Glaswegian born and bred. 54 00:02:55,920 --> 00:02:58,520 I was chopping onions, and one of your cousin's sisters went, 55 00:02:58,520 --> 00:03:01,600 "No, we don't chop them like that." No, that's right. You know? 56 00:03:01,600 --> 00:03:04,680 But I want to find out about more than just food, 57 00:03:04,680 --> 00:03:07,000 my mission is personal. 58 00:03:07,000 --> 00:03:10,480 Every time I speak to my parents, I'm finding out something new 59 00:03:10,480 --> 00:03:13,920 about how they came to be in Scotland. 60 00:03:13,920 --> 00:03:17,400 Everybody left, everything, all the belongings, the houses - everything. 61 00:03:17,400 --> 00:03:21,320 My knowledge of my family history now is about that. 62 00:03:21,320 --> 00:03:24,040 It's like my knowledge of Punjabi foods is like that 63 00:03:24,040 --> 00:03:28,200 because it's vast and this journey, this trip of discovery 64 00:03:28,200 --> 00:03:29,400 is going to be for both. 65 00:03:31,640 --> 00:03:34,880 My family story begins in 1947 66 00:03:34,880 --> 00:03:38,760 when the country was divided into Pakistan and India, 67 00:03:38,760 --> 00:03:39,840 the partition. 68 00:03:40,840 --> 00:03:44,480 I'm heading to the north-western state of Punjab, 69 00:03:44,480 --> 00:03:48,680 home of the Sikh religion and where my dad's family are from, 70 00:03:48,680 --> 00:03:51,200 and I'm starting my journey in Amritsar. 71 00:03:56,200 --> 00:03:58,480 I've only been to India twice in my life 72 00:03:58,480 --> 00:04:00,280 and those were fleeting visits... 73 00:04:01,360 --> 00:04:03,840 ..so this is going to be a huge adventure 74 00:04:03,840 --> 00:04:06,120 and a chance to see if I can really fit in. 75 00:04:10,680 --> 00:04:13,960 This is it, this is what I expected to hit me 76 00:04:13,960 --> 00:04:18,560 as soon as I walked out of the airport, and it feels fantastic. 77 00:04:22,960 --> 00:04:25,520 You take your life into your own hands, we're on the road now. 78 00:04:26,600 --> 00:04:27,920 I'm just so excited. 79 00:04:27,920 --> 00:04:30,160 I'm here to find out about authentic Punjabi food. 80 00:04:30,160 --> 00:04:33,200 To see the real thing, hear the stories, 81 00:04:33,200 --> 00:04:36,560 find out how it's changed, how the history, how the land, 82 00:04:36,560 --> 00:04:39,760 how the people have shaped the cooking, the techniques, 83 00:04:39,760 --> 00:04:42,240 the ingredients that I call my own. 84 00:04:44,400 --> 00:04:48,400 I'm in the holy city of Amritsar, the spiritual home of Sikhism. 85 00:04:50,080 --> 00:04:54,280 It's the eve of the most important religious festival of the year - 86 00:04:54,280 --> 00:04:56,840 Diwali, the Festival of Lights. 87 00:04:59,440 --> 00:05:02,720 But after two planes, a hairy rickshaw ride... 88 00:05:02,720 --> 00:05:04,600 Thank you. 89 00:05:04,600 --> 00:05:09,080 ..I'm cream crackered, and tomorrow I have an early start. 90 00:05:17,480 --> 00:05:20,600 It's Diwali, or Bandi Chhor Divas for Sikhs, 91 00:05:20,600 --> 00:05:23,160 and I'm getting ready for the Golden Temple. 92 00:05:25,160 --> 00:05:30,080 My worry right now apart from getting to temple, to the gurdwara, 93 00:05:30,080 --> 00:05:32,760 is what I'm going to wear, what shirt I'm going to wear 94 00:05:32,760 --> 00:05:35,480 because everybody's going to be dressed up, 95 00:05:35,480 --> 00:05:37,320 it's going to be fantastic. 96 00:05:37,320 --> 00:05:40,280 You get there, it's the beginning of the year, 97 00:05:40,280 --> 00:05:42,440 you know what I mean, it's that whole thing of... 98 00:05:42,440 --> 00:05:44,200 Yeah, it's a fresh start, it's good. 99 00:05:50,080 --> 00:05:53,920 As I join other pilgrims on their way to the golden temple 100 00:05:53,920 --> 00:05:55,560 the atmosphere is electric. 101 00:05:57,920 --> 00:06:00,640 The butterflies are starting. I'm so excited. 102 00:06:00,640 --> 00:06:03,760 Do you know what I mean, it's just that thing of anticipation, 103 00:06:03,760 --> 00:06:06,680 it's just...you can't explain it. 104 00:06:06,680 --> 00:06:08,640 Wow! My childhood heroes. 105 00:06:11,520 --> 00:06:14,440 The Nihang, Sikh warriors. 106 00:06:14,440 --> 00:06:17,560 And I've not met them, I've not seen them in person. 107 00:06:20,320 --> 00:06:21,720 It's surreal for me. 108 00:06:24,920 --> 00:06:26,800 You can just feel it coming up to you, 109 00:06:26,800 --> 00:06:28,640 there's just something about it. 110 00:06:28,640 --> 00:06:30,800 You can hear the madness behind you and the hubbub, 111 00:06:30,800 --> 00:06:33,440 and everybody's coming in, but they're taking their own time, 112 00:06:33,440 --> 00:06:34,800 they're just quietening down. 113 00:06:34,800 --> 00:06:37,160 They know they're going somewhere divine. 114 00:06:41,080 --> 00:06:43,320 As a Sikh on Diwali, this is the place, 115 00:06:43,320 --> 00:06:45,120 this is the centre of Sikhism. 116 00:06:45,120 --> 00:06:47,680 To come during Diwali, you're a lucky person 117 00:06:47,680 --> 00:06:49,800 and I'm a very lucky person to be here. 118 00:07:05,160 --> 00:07:07,880 The Golden Temple is a breathtaking sight. 119 00:07:10,040 --> 00:07:14,120 It has four entrances to show that all are welcome 120 00:07:14,120 --> 00:07:17,280 regardless of faith, gender or caste. 121 00:07:18,360 --> 00:07:22,720 The whole complex is sacred and pilgrims from all over the world 122 00:07:22,720 --> 00:07:23,960 come here to worship. 123 00:07:30,520 --> 00:07:32,480 Langar, or communal eating, 124 00:07:32,480 --> 00:07:34,720 is a cornerstone of the Sikh faith 125 00:07:34,720 --> 00:07:37,960 and a major part of the celebrations. 126 00:07:37,960 --> 00:07:40,880 The food is free and the operation is run by volunteers. 127 00:07:42,840 --> 00:07:46,720 One of the greatest honours for any Sikh is to do service, 128 00:07:46,720 --> 00:07:50,280 and most of the work is done in silence as a sign of respect. 129 00:07:52,920 --> 00:07:55,680 There may be an army of washer-uppers 130 00:07:55,680 --> 00:07:57,040 but that's because the kitchen 131 00:07:57,040 --> 00:07:59,800 will feed over half a million pilgrims today. 132 00:08:03,240 --> 00:08:07,320 To cope with the numbers, food is cooked in massive cauldrons. 133 00:08:07,320 --> 00:08:11,320 I've been told this one holds 400 kilos of lentil dhal. 134 00:08:15,440 --> 00:08:19,040 Bread, rather than rice, is the staple food of Punjab 135 00:08:19,040 --> 00:08:24,320 and here they can churn out over 20,000 wheat flour rotis an hour. 136 00:08:24,320 --> 00:08:26,840 That is one of the cornerstones of our faith. 137 00:08:26,840 --> 00:08:30,800 It's simple fare where everybody is treated equal. 138 00:08:30,800 --> 00:08:33,840 You sit on the floor and you don't care who's sitting next to you, 139 00:08:33,840 --> 00:08:35,320 it's always vegetarian, 140 00:08:35,320 --> 00:08:38,720 it's always something that anybody can afford. 141 00:08:38,720 --> 00:08:42,560 This is the most amazing thing about Punjabi food, 142 00:08:42,560 --> 00:08:46,040 it's so interlinked with the Sikh tenets of Sikhism. 143 00:08:46,040 --> 00:08:49,760 Kirt karo, vand chhako, naam japo, 144 00:08:49,760 --> 00:08:53,640 which is honest work, then share what you have, 145 00:08:53,640 --> 00:08:55,240 and then meditate with God. 146 00:08:57,320 --> 00:09:01,160 The Golden Temple, it's like the Vatican for Catholics. 147 00:09:01,160 --> 00:09:04,280 There's no other place like it, it's awe-inspiring. 148 00:09:07,960 --> 00:09:11,160 I've seen how the Golden Temple feeds the masses, 149 00:09:11,160 --> 00:09:15,120 but how do people do Diwali on a more modest scale at home? 150 00:09:16,320 --> 00:09:19,480 Well, I've been invited to celebrate this special occasion 151 00:09:19,480 --> 00:09:22,800 with a family who live on the other side of town. 152 00:09:22,800 --> 00:09:25,960 It's a real honour, so I'm not coming empty-handed. 153 00:09:29,320 --> 00:09:31,400 And in good tradition I'm taking sweets, 154 00:09:31,400 --> 00:09:35,360 and these one's I've made myself because it's very auspicious. 155 00:09:37,960 --> 00:09:40,960 Hi, happy Diwali. Happy Diwali. 156 00:09:40,960 --> 00:09:44,640 In the Punjabi tradition, pouring mustard oil to welcome guests 157 00:09:44,640 --> 00:09:45,760 is a ritual. 158 00:09:45,760 --> 00:09:46,800 Happy Diwali. 159 00:09:49,040 --> 00:09:53,000 And I am indeed welcomed by the whole extended family. 160 00:09:54,480 --> 00:09:56,040 I've just made that from Scotland, 161 00:09:56,040 --> 00:09:59,480 so it's shortbread and tablet like barfi. 162 00:09:59,480 --> 00:10:02,360 So, I'm here to learn something in the kitchen. 163 00:10:07,400 --> 00:10:08,640 Karandeep, what do you like? 164 00:10:08,640 --> 00:10:10,880 What's your favourite dish your mum cooks for you? 165 00:10:12,080 --> 00:10:13,600 Is that what we're making now? 166 00:10:13,600 --> 00:10:15,840 Yes. That's kidney beans? Yeah, it's beans. 167 00:10:15,840 --> 00:10:18,600 Yeah, it's going to be with rice, which is quite interesting 168 00:10:18,600 --> 00:10:21,400 because in Punjab, they just eat lots of bread, 169 00:10:21,400 --> 00:10:23,400 so this rice dish is Karendeep's favourite, 170 00:10:23,400 --> 00:10:24,960 that's what I'm going to get shown. 171 00:10:26,240 --> 00:10:27,960 How often do you help in the kitchen? 172 00:10:32,320 --> 00:10:35,160 But now, you see that, it makes you more eligible to get married. 173 00:10:44,880 --> 00:10:46,320 OK. OK. 174 00:10:46,320 --> 00:10:49,360 We're ready to go into the kitchen. 175 00:10:49,360 --> 00:10:51,880 We're making a red kidney bean curry 176 00:10:51,880 --> 00:10:55,200 and we're starting with a Punjabi cooking staple - 177 00:10:55,200 --> 00:10:57,680 mustard oil, and lots of it. 178 00:10:57,680 --> 00:11:00,960 Right, so, that's a fantastic tip I never knew, 179 00:11:00,960 --> 00:11:03,680 you can still smell the mustard oil. 180 00:11:03,680 --> 00:11:06,480 When it's at temperature, you won't smell it. OK. 181 00:11:09,560 --> 00:11:13,760 So that's going in, that's going to take 10-15 minutes to brown. 182 00:11:13,760 --> 00:11:17,600 Once the onions have softened, we add garlic and ginger paste. 183 00:11:21,000 --> 00:11:23,000 So I'm getting the green chillies. 184 00:11:23,000 --> 00:11:25,920 Going in to the magic mincer with the tomatoes 185 00:11:25,920 --> 00:11:28,200 and there's only three chillies going in, 186 00:11:28,200 --> 00:11:30,800 and this gets away from the fact that everything should be hot 187 00:11:30,800 --> 00:11:33,640 and mad spicy - it's not, it's aromatic and tasty. 188 00:11:35,400 --> 00:11:38,080 Auntie said to me, "Is this how I do it back home?" I said I've got 189 00:11:38,080 --> 00:11:41,040 a wee boy that does it for me, or a commis, on an electric machine. 190 00:11:42,440 --> 00:11:45,880 No. Change now, you're going to be doing this, ah? 191 00:11:45,880 --> 00:11:50,560 And you'll find a spice box like this in every Punjabi kitchen 192 00:11:50,560 --> 00:11:54,280 with the flavour essentials for most dishes - garam masala, 193 00:11:54,280 --> 00:11:57,600 salt, turmeric and two types of chilli. 194 00:11:57,600 --> 00:11:59,560 OK. 195 00:11:59,560 --> 00:12:00,760 That's it ready. 196 00:12:02,400 --> 00:12:03,880 That's it there. 197 00:12:03,880 --> 00:12:05,520 And this is... 198 00:12:07,160 --> 00:12:09,200 So we've got kidney beans that have been soaked 199 00:12:09,200 --> 00:12:11,880 and cooked in a pressure cooker with two teaspoons of salt. 200 00:12:14,240 --> 00:12:17,840 Most Punjabis are vegetarian, and simple veggie dishes 201 00:12:17,840 --> 00:12:20,400 like this are the mainstay of family feasts. 202 00:12:25,520 --> 00:12:27,800 Outside, things are getting lively. 203 00:12:30,080 --> 00:12:33,800 But for now I'm taking a more sedate approach 204 00:12:33,800 --> 00:12:35,240 to the Festival of Light. 205 00:12:38,320 --> 00:12:39,800 Yes. Old, yeah. 206 00:12:45,080 --> 00:12:46,320 I'm missing home now. 207 00:12:46,320 --> 00:12:48,240 We do the same but it's with tealights. 208 00:12:48,240 --> 00:12:50,240 It's one of the things that the kids love doing, 209 00:12:50,240 --> 00:12:52,600 lighting them with me and putting them round the house, 210 00:12:52,600 --> 00:12:53,840 so I'm feeling a bit sad. 211 00:13:01,320 --> 00:13:02,360 Happy Diwali. 212 00:13:02,360 --> 00:13:06,560 I may be feeling homesick but that's soon cured by the warm welcome. 213 00:13:08,080 --> 00:13:11,640 Diwali here is like the Christmas holidays back in the UK, 214 00:13:11,640 --> 00:13:14,880 filled with family, friends, gifts... 215 00:13:16,760 --> 00:13:18,440 ..and of course food. 216 00:13:21,200 --> 00:13:24,240 For Diwali we do the same, we have the fireworks, 217 00:13:24,240 --> 00:13:26,480 we have our diyas tied to the house. 218 00:13:28,600 --> 00:13:31,040 This is like being in my own home. 219 00:13:32,800 --> 00:13:36,200 As it's a special occasion, we're having a rice dish 220 00:13:36,200 --> 00:13:38,760 rather than the Punjabi staple - bread. 221 00:13:40,640 --> 00:13:44,400 Unlike Christmas, there isn't one traditional Diwali meal, 222 00:13:44,400 --> 00:13:46,160 so people eat whatever they like. 223 00:13:47,840 --> 00:13:50,160 The red kidney beans taste fantastic 224 00:13:50,160 --> 00:13:52,520 and even remind me of my mum's cooking, 225 00:13:52,520 --> 00:13:54,560 so simple but full of flavour. 226 00:13:56,720 --> 00:13:58,600 Now, though, it's play time. 227 00:14:01,600 --> 00:14:04,240 Stand back from the fireworks, eh? 228 00:14:04,240 --> 00:14:06,160 50 yards. I don't think so. 229 00:14:06,160 --> 00:14:08,400 And like at home, I'm only allowed the sparklers. 230 00:14:25,360 --> 00:14:28,520 The amazing thing today was that sense of family, 231 00:14:28,520 --> 00:14:32,240 sharing and eating, it's exactly what we do at home. 232 00:14:32,240 --> 00:14:35,800 Fireworks maybe not to that scale, but sitting down 233 00:14:35,800 --> 00:14:38,200 with your family, I mean, it's so special. 234 00:14:38,200 --> 00:14:41,920 And the flavours, the flavours I've been having at home, 235 00:14:41,920 --> 00:14:44,720 it's true Punjabi flavours and they're the same here. 236 00:14:44,720 --> 00:14:47,440 I think that's one of the things that's made me connect 237 00:14:47,440 --> 00:14:48,760 and feel at home. 238 00:15:04,200 --> 00:15:08,680 After last night's celebrations, I can't believe I'm hungry again. 239 00:15:08,680 --> 00:15:12,480 But it's not surprising, everywhere I look there's delicious food. 240 00:15:16,480 --> 00:15:17,640 Just seen an elephant, 241 00:15:17,640 --> 00:15:19,880 somebody nearly getting squished at the roundabout 242 00:15:19,880 --> 00:15:22,880 and this is before breakfast, but that's what I'm here for. 243 00:15:22,880 --> 00:15:25,400 I'm on Lawrence Road, I'm starving 244 00:15:25,400 --> 00:15:27,840 and I want to find out what we have for breakfast in Punjab, 245 00:15:27,840 --> 00:15:29,680 and I've been told there's a cracking place 246 00:15:29,680 --> 00:15:31,000 just round the corner. 247 00:15:34,000 --> 00:15:35,120 See that, look at that. 248 00:15:35,120 --> 00:15:38,840 So that's a dough but he's stuffing it with lentils. 249 00:15:42,400 --> 00:15:44,240 He's making puri. 250 00:15:44,240 --> 00:15:46,720 It's a deep-fried bread. 251 00:15:46,720 --> 00:15:49,040 Vegetable... 252 00:15:50,560 --> 00:15:52,320 Clarified butter. 253 00:15:52,320 --> 00:15:53,600 Wow, look at that. 254 00:15:56,880 --> 00:15:59,760 This is a thing that you have for breakfast, eh? 255 00:15:59,760 --> 00:16:01,040 Oh, OK, thank you. 256 00:16:01,040 --> 00:16:04,840 Best place to get puri chana is kind of just there, 257 00:16:04,840 --> 00:16:06,240 so that's where we're off to. 258 00:16:12,600 --> 00:16:15,760 No need for a menu here, there's only one thing on offer. 259 00:16:18,520 --> 00:16:19,760 And this is what it's about, 260 00:16:19,760 --> 00:16:22,360 puri chole, this is what they have for breakfast. 261 00:16:22,360 --> 00:16:24,400 That's what I call a puri. Thank you. 262 00:16:24,400 --> 00:16:26,720 That's a aloo sabji - potatoes, 263 00:16:26,720 --> 00:16:31,000 and that's the chole - that's the chickpeas, sliced onions and pickle. 264 00:16:32,960 --> 00:16:35,240 That's feather light, should feel... 265 00:16:35,240 --> 00:16:36,320 It's just... 266 00:16:42,960 --> 00:16:44,000 That's lovely. 267 00:16:44,000 --> 00:16:45,680 The chickpeas melt in your mouth. 268 00:16:47,200 --> 00:16:49,560 Wow. So this is it, bread. 269 00:16:49,560 --> 00:16:52,480 Most people think Indian food's rice. 270 00:16:52,480 --> 00:16:54,880 Most of India, the bread basket of India. 271 00:16:54,880 --> 00:16:56,920 In Punjab we have all these different breads - 272 00:16:56,920 --> 00:16:59,880 puri, roti, roomali, roti and naan. 273 00:16:59,880 --> 00:17:01,600 And you eat it with your fingers. 274 00:17:01,600 --> 00:17:03,880 This is your implement, there's no forks or knives, 275 00:17:03,880 --> 00:17:06,000 this is what it's all about. 276 00:17:06,000 --> 00:17:09,520 You only pay 35 pence per puri, 277 00:17:09,520 --> 00:17:12,400 the rest is all you can eat Punjabi style, 278 00:17:12,400 --> 00:17:14,240 and the refills keep on coming. 279 00:17:15,280 --> 00:17:17,480 You either have to eat quick and get out 280 00:17:17,480 --> 00:17:20,320 or I'm going to have to be rude and say, "Stop." 281 00:17:20,320 --> 00:17:21,440 This is wonderful. 282 00:17:27,320 --> 00:17:28,600 Oh, that's me. 283 00:17:28,600 --> 00:17:31,200 Just had my first Punjabi breakfast. 284 00:17:31,200 --> 00:17:34,920 You can still feel the clarified butter dripping down your throat, 285 00:17:34,920 --> 00:17:38,320 this is food to do things on not sit around an office. 286 00:17:38,320 --> 00:17:41,200 Just as well, I have a packed day ahead. 287 00:17:41,200 --> 00:17:44,120 First, I'm off to look for my ancestral home, 288 00:17:44,120 --> 00:17:46,520 the house that belonged to my great-grandfather. 289 00:17:50,720 --> 00:17:56,720 In 1947, after over a century of colonial rule, Britain gave 290 00:17:56,720 --> 00:18:02,800 India independence and split Punjab into two - India and Pakistan. 291 00:18:02,800 --> 00:18:06,600 The area around the newly-created border was volatile 292 00:18:06,600 --> 00:18:09,960 and Amritsar became a dangerous and violent place to live. 293 00:18:11,000 --> 00:18:14,760 My great-grandparents joined the millions forced to flee to the 294 00:18:14,760 --> 00:18:19,200 safety of Delhi, and I want to find the house they left behind. 295 00:18:19,200 --> 00:18:22,000 I know it's in Sultanwind Gate, which is that way, 296 00:18:22,000 --> 00:18:24,680 but I need to get my skates on and get along there 297 00:18:24,680 --> 00:18:26,080 before I get mashed up. 298 00:18:30,760 --> 00:18:34,400 Sultanwind Gate, right, so we're in the right area, 299 00:18:34,400 --> 00:18:36,640 I've got the name of the street, Fatawaligali. 300 00:18:42,440 --> 00:18:43,480 Shukria. 301 00:18:43,480 --> 00:18:46,920 Armed with some clues, I want to see how my family used to live... 302 00:18:48,560 --> 00:18:51,160 ..if I can survive long enough to find the house. 303 00:18:52,160 --> 00:18:54,240 That's mental, totally mad. Man! 304 00:18:54,240 --> 00:18:56,360 It's a grown man crossing the street, that's mad, 305 00:18:56,360 --> 00:18:57,960 but show no fear, eh, done it. 306 00:18:59,320 --> 00:19:01,960 Right, Sultanwind Gate. 307 00:19:03,160 --> 00:19:06,120 No street names, so I'm a bit stuck. 308 00:19:06,120 --> 00:19:09,840 It's time to put my best Scottish-Punjabi to the test. 309 00:19:09,840 --> 00:19:11,600 Fatawaligali. 310 00:19:17,400 --> 00:19:20,280 A foundry inside a built-up area. 311 00:19:22,360 --> 00:19:24,400 Thank you. 312 00:19:24,400 --> 00:19:26,640 It's 70 years ago, so they don't know where it is 313 00:19:26,640 --> 00:19:29,920 but I've been asked in for tea, that's Punjabi hospitality. 314 00:19:44,280 --> 00:19:47,480 I can't bel... Well, this is it, this is where it started from. 315 00:19:47,480 --> 00:19:50,200 I'm a bit speechless, actually, because this is the beginning, 316 00:19:50,200 --> 00:19:52,040 this is my great-grandad's house. 317 00:20:08,040 --> 00:20:10,560 After some explaining, this lovely family 318 00:20:10,560 --> 00:20:13,880 are letting this crazy Scot into their home. 319 00:20:13,880 --> 00:20:17,200 My great-grandad was here, and during partition they moved out. 320 00:20:17,200 --> 00:20:19,800 They got pushed down to Delhi, and then my grandad 321 00:20:19,800 --> 00:20:22,440 went to Scotland, so I was born and raised in Scotland. 322 00:20:26,680 --> 00:20:29,520 It's just...that feeling, you know, it's... 323 00:20:29,520 --> 00:20:32,560 Don't know. It's quite... tingle in the tummy. 324 00:20:32,560 --> 00:20:35,720 You can see the changes but they're not huge, you know what I mean? 325 00:20:35,720 --> 00:20:38,560 I think probably this is, in its essence, the same. 326 00:20:47,200 --> 00:20:49,600 My gran used to say they used to go across the rooftops, 327 00:20:49,600 --> 00:20:51,160 so obviously this has been built on. 328 00:20:51,160 --> 00:20:54,280 But seeing it first-hand and being told how it was so different, 329 00:20:54,280 --> 00:20:56,480 and even though it's changed a bit, 330 00:20:56,480 --> 00:20:58,240 you can still see them sitting out here. 331 00:20:59,200 --> 00:21:02,760 But what an upheaval for partition, when India got divided into 332 00:21:02,760 --> 00:21:06,120 India-Pakistan, to leave everything behind and get pushed down. 333 00:21:06,120 --> 00:21:10,160 All the refugees, it was one of the biggest movements of people ever. 334 00:21:10,160 --> 00:21:12,160 But most people thought they were coming back. 335 00:21:12,160 --> 00:21:15,280 My great-grandad never came back. They never came back to the house. 336 00:21:17,640 --> 00:21:20,280 One of the things that always goes through your head - 337 00:21:20,280 --> 00:21:22,000 if the partition never happened, 338 00:21:22,000 --> 00:21:24,480 this is where I would have been brought up most likely. 339 00:21:26,280 --> 00:21:27,640 Yeah, not a bad life. 340 00:21:29,600 --> 00:21:32,440 I'm grateful to this family for giving me a glimpse of 341 00:21:32,440 --> 00:21:34,760 how my great-grandparents used to live. 342 00:21:36,640 --> 00:21:37,920 Time for a memento. 343 00:21:41,720 --> 00:21:44,440 Got my picture taken, quite a few of them actually. 344 00:21:44,440 --> 00:21:47,240 Some with my head, some without my head, but I'm just chuffed. 345 00:21:47,240 --> 00:21:49,840 So I'm off now on another adventure. 346 00:21:54,600 --> 00:21:59,920 The sun might go down but the eating and the madness never stops. 347 00:21:59,920 --> 00:22:01,640 You don't see that every day, eh? 348 00:22:01,640 --> 00:22:04,640 Ha! Elephant, you'd think they'd have lights on it though. 349 00:22:09,160 --> 00:22:12,240 Six, half six, that's ten hours till my breakfast. 350 00:22:12,240 --> 00:22:15,040 I didn't have lunch, but that's the essence of Punjabi food 351 00:22:15,040 --> 00:22:17,760 is to keep you going, but now I'm hungry. 352 00:22:19,760 --> 00:22:22,480 I'm meeting a local food blogger - Jaideep. 353 00:22:23,760 --> 00:22:26,520 He's promised to take me on a food crawl of Amritsar 354 00:22:26,520 --> 00:22:30,920 and introduce me to a local custom called car-o-bar. 355 00:22:30,920 --> 00:22:31,960 I'm intrigued. 356 00:22:31,960 --> 00:22:34,640 Fantastic, thanks for talking to me online about everything. 357 00:22:34,640 --> 00:22:37,240 Not a problem, not a problem. How do you... Why are you online? 358 00:22:37,240 --> 00:22:39,520 I was amazed I found your blog and everything. 359 00:22:39,520 --> 00:22:40,800 What's your passion about? 360 00:22:42,160 --> 00:22:43,440 Yeah.> 361 00:22:46,320 --> 00:22:47,880 Right. 362 00:22:51,320 --> 00:22:53,720 Yeah, and this is the thing, car-o-bar. 363 00:22:54,800 --> 00:22:56,360 Shown, OK. Show me. 364 00:22:57,840 --> 00:22:59,280 Right. OK. Let's go. 365 00:23:05,800 --> 00:23:08,000 They might hold on to old traditions here 366 00:23:08,000 --> 00:23:11,000 but I think I'm about to discover their enthusiasm 367 00:23:11,000 --> 00:23:12,040 for new ones too. 368 00:23:14,880 --> 00:23:16,360 Right. 369 00:23:16,360 --> 00:23:17,560 Yes. 370 00:23:21,560 --> 00:23:23,280 Car-o-bar. Car-o-bar. 371 00:23:23,280 --> 00:23:24,320 And what's this? 372 00:23:27,520 --> 00:23:29,400 Why rum? Is that because of the sugar cane? 373 00:23:31,960 --> 00:23:35,360 There you go, rite of passage anywhere in the world, cheap drink. 374 00:23:35,360 --> 00:23:36,840 Cheap drink. Start pouring. 375 00:23:36,840 --> 00:23:37,960 Crack it open, OK. 376 00:23:39,200 --> 00:23:42,440 So, who's the unlucky person that drives the car-o-bar? 377 00:23:43,840 --> 00:23:45,080 So what are you on, soda? 378 00:23:47,040 --> 00:23:48,600 Go for it. Go for it. 379 00:23:52,840 --> 00:23:53,920 And then? 380 00:23:55,000 --> 00:23:57,320 Right. OK. 381 00:24:01,080 --> 00:24:03,160 OK, repeat till you fall over. 382 00:24:03,160 --> 00:24:04,200 There you go. 383 00:24:06,360 --> 00:24:08,880 They might not serve alcohol at these stalls 384 00:24:08,880 --> 00:24:11,320 but the food is meant to be out of this world. 385 00:24:17,040 --> 00:24:18,360 The go-to, the place? 386 00:24:18,360 --> 00:24:19,400 The go-to, the place. 387 00:24:19,400 --> 00:24:23,480 You see, in Edinburgh, you'd ask for one fish and chips, OK. 388 00:24:23,480 --> 00:24:25,320 By weight? By weight. What are we having? 389 00:24:27,240 --> 00:24:28,880 I like this. 390 00:24:28,880 --> 00:24:32,280 Punjab means 'land of five rivers' 391 00:24:32,280 --> 00:24:34,640 and this is a freshwater catfish. 392 00:24:34,640 --> 00:24:36,640 It's a bit like cod. 393 00:24:36,640 --> 00:24:38,920 And with a bit of salad on the side. White radish. 394 00:24:38,920 --> 00:24:41,200 And what's in the chutney? Chutney is a mint chutney. 395 00:24:44,440 --> 00:24:47,800 You can taste the fish, you've got a little bit of heat. 396 00:24:47,800 --> 00:24:49,360 This is fabulous. 397 00:24:49,360 --> 00:24:52,840 Just going place to place is like tapas, OK, but this is not 398 00:24:52,840 --> 00:24:55,280 cos you're drinking, you're taking your own drink. Yeah. 399 00:24:55,280 --> 00:24:57,160 You're not going to the bar for the nibbles, 400 00:24:57,160 --> 00:24:59,080 you're taking your bar to the nibbles. 401 00:24:59,080 --> 00:25:00,240 Right. But who does it? 402 00:25:03,160 --> 00:25:05,960 So it's not about cost? No, it's not about cost. 403 00:25:11,400 --> 00:25:12,480 Right. 404 00:25:18,680 --> 00:25:19,760 Yes. 405 00:25:25,040 --> 00:25:26,680 So you have to move? 406 00:25:26,680 --> 00:25:28,880 You have to move. I'm ready. You're ready. 407 00:25:30,680 --> 00:25:34,040 So the fish is done. Fish is done. Now... 408 00:25:37,360 --> 00:25:40,160 No, not those sorts of birds! 409 00:25:40,160 --> 00:25:43,400 Tandoori chicken is a Punjabi speciality, 410 00:25:43,400 --> 00:25:46,760 skewered and cooked in a traditional, wood-fired oven - 411 00:25:46,760 --> 00:25:47,880 the tandoor. 412 00:25:50,200 --> 00:25:53,200 And Jaideep is taking me to THE place to try it. 413 00:26:00,960 --> 00:26:02,480 Drive-through. 414 00:26:02,480 --> 00:26:04,000 Where from? 415 00:26:04,000 --> 00:26:05,640 My mouth's watering already. 416 00:26:09,520 --> 00:26:10,720 Thank you. 417 00:26:14,000 --> 00:26:15,720 Wow. 418 00:26:15,720 --> 00:26:17,000 Green mint chutney. 419 00:26:22,320 --> 00:26:25,040 It's so tender and so succulent. 420 00:26:26,600 --> 00:26:29,200 If you're back in the UK, most restaurants... 421 00:26:29,200 --> 00:26:31,920 You've got tandoori chicken, nothing like this. 422 00:26:31,920 --> 00:26:34,000 OK. Gas ovens. All right. 423 00:26:34,000 --> 00:26:35,880 You've just lost that flavour. 424 00:26:35,880 --> 00:26:37,960 So is this why they still use wood for centuries 425 00:26:37,960 --> 00:26:39,320 and that's why they stick to it? 426 00:26:39,320 --> 00:26:40,760 And basically you can taste it. 427 00:26:40,760 --> 00:26:43,200 You can, and that's the amazing thing. That's the beauty. 428 00:26:43,200 --> 00:26:46,920 I heard a story about the metal rods used to be swords. 429 00:26:53,040 --> 00:26:54,360 Right. 430 00:26:56,600 --> 00:26:59,040 Right. 431 00:26:59,040 --> 00:27:01,480 That's how good it is, that's lasted through the ages. 432 00:27:07,480 --> 00:27:08,960 Amazing. Right. 433 00:27:08,960 --> 00:27:12,040 After we've had this, to finish off car-o-bar, what would you do? 434 00:27:24,040 --> 00:27:28,880 Punjabi cuisine uses a lot of dairy, so what better way to finish the 435 00:27:28,880 --> 00:27:33,200 night than with this solid, buttery cream with fruit 436 00:27:33,200 --> 00:27:36,040 made from super-rich buffalo milk? 437 00:27:36,040 --> 00:27:37,160 Wow. 438 00:27:37,160 --> 00:27:40,120 52% fat and it tastes fantastic. 439 00:27:41,600 --> 00:27:44,280 Car-o-bar, what an idea, eh? What a concept! 440 00:27:44,280 --> 00:27:47,720 I love it, going out. Shame for the designated driver 441 00:27:47,720 --> 00:27:51,560 but the bonus is the food of one person doing one thing 442 00:27:51,560 --> 00:27:53,600 just right and then you go to the next, 443 00:27:53,600 --> 00:27:54,960 I think it's a fantastic idea. 444 00:28:06,680 --> 00:28:10,480 I think I'm finally getting the hang of crossing these roads 445 00:28:10,480 --> 00:28:14,000 but there's no way this Scot is getting behind the wheel. 446 00:28:17,400 --> 00:28:21,560 So I've hired a driver, who's taking me on the next part of my adventure. 447 00:28:25,720 --> 00:28:31,120 I'm travelling on the Grand Trunk, or GT Road, down to Delhi, 448 00:28:31,120 --> 00:28:34,720 the same 300-mile journey that millions of Sikhs, 449 00:28:34,720 --> 00:28:38,160 including my own family, were forced to make as refugees. 450 00:28:39,880 --> 00:28:42,680 After India declared independence, 451 00:28:42,680 --> 00:28:45,320 the tension between different religions was high. 452 00:28:46,520 --> 00:28:49,840 In Punjab, Sikhs and Muslims clashed 453 00:28:49,840 --> 00:28:53,240 as they both scrambled to get to the right side of the border 454 00:28:53,240 --> 00:28:55,240 and find safe haven. 455 00:28:55,240 --> 00:28:59,040 A million people died from violence or starvation 456 00:28:59,040 --> 00:29:01,160 trying to reach their destinations. 457 00:29:10,600 --> 00:29:14,440 My first stop en-route to Delhi is an hour outside Amritsar. 458 00:29:14,440 --> 00:29:15,680 I'm looking for a spot 459 00:29:15,680 --> 00:29:19,640 where a holy order of Sikh soldiers have set up camp. 460 00:29:19,640 --> 00:29:22,280 I was raised on stories about these legendary, 461 00:29:22,280 --> 00:29:23,920 nomadic warriors 462 00:29:23,920 --> 00:29:27,880 whose way of life hasn't changed for over 300 years. 463 00:29:27,880 --> 00:29:30,200 This is my chance to meet the Nihang, 464 00:29:30,200 --> 00:29:32,440 the superheroes of the Sikh world. 465 00:29:33,560 --> 00:29:36,040 Getting to meet them hasn't been easy, 466 00:29:36,040 --> 00:29:40,320 but, thanks to Dalbir who's worked with them for years, here I am. 467 00:29:43,760 --> 00:29:47,880 I'm just in awe because as I've been growing up, 468 00:29:47,880 --> 00:29:52,200 my grandad on my mum's side used to tell me about the Nihang, 469 00:29:52,200 --> 00:29:55,880 the Sikh soldiers, the protectors of the faith, but everybody's faith. 470 00:29:55,880 --> 00:29:59,720 These guys went about and looked after everybody and they're here. 471 00:30:03,240 --> 00:30:07,760 Their martial art, gatka, has been around for thousands of years 472 00:30:07,760 --> 00:30:09,880 but these swords aren't just for show. 473 00:30:12,920 --> 00:30:19,240 Why would spiritual people and peace-loving people do gatka? 474 00:30:28,960 --> 00:30:33,560 The Nihang were rarely beaten on the battlefield, even when outnumbered. 475 00:30:33,560 --> 00:30:35,400 So, where do they get their strength? 476 00:30:36,600 --> 00:30:39,360 The Nihang, they travel, they're nomadic in the sense of 477 00:30:39,360 --> 00:30:41,520 they go from place to place. 478 00:30:41,520 --> 00:30:46,160 And me being a chef, I always go back. How did they eat? 479 00:30:48,080 --> 00:30:49,280 Thank you. 480 00:30:52,640 --> 00:30:55,280 They have set up camp in a local gurdwara, 481 00:30:55,280 --> 00:30:58,680 but before I see their operation, I am being taken to the 482 00:30:58,680 --> 00:31:00,880 head of the order to get his blessing. 483 00:31:07,880 --> 00:31:10,880 Babaji was saying? Babaji said... 484 00:31:18,760 --> 00:31:20,640 Excellent. You're welcome. 485 00:31:21,760 --> 00:31:26,160 Open kitchens with strict rules are set up each time they move camp. 486 00:31:30,920 --> 00:31:33,000 Iron? Iron bowls. Why, why? 487 00:31:38,120 --> 00:31:39,520 They always cover their mouths. 488 00:31:39,520 --> 00:31:41,880 Such respect is paid to the food 489 00:31:41,880 --> 00:31:44,520 that they put a piece of cloth over their mouth. 490 00:31:48,400 --> 00:31:52,520 So it's an honour to become a vaviki, a chef for the Nihang 491 00:31:52,520 --> 00:31:54,680 because they only cook for themselves. 492 00:31:54,680 --> 00:31:56,320 They can't even have packaged drinks, 493 00:31:56,320 --> 00:31:57,480 anything outside. 494 00:31:57,480 --> 00:32:00,640 And other vaviki, other chefs, Nihang chefs cook for them, 495 00:32:00,640 --> 00:32:02,560 but it's such an honour, I never knew this. 496 00:32:02,560 --> 00:32:04,840 Close. 497 00:32:04,840 --> 00:32:06,520 I'm not allowed into the kitchen, 498 00:32:06,520 --> 00:32:08,440 I'm not allowed to touch anything 499 00:32:08,440 --> 00:32:11,000 because I'm not a vaviki chef, I'm not a Nihang chef. 500 00:32:22,920 --> 00:32:26,560 Everything done by hand until all the pilgrims are fed. 501 00:32:31,680 --> 00:32:35,040 But these villagers are here for more than a free lunch, 502 00:32:35,040 --> 00:32:38,160 they've come to be close to their heroes, and many 503 00:32:38,160 --> 00:32:42,320 will donate food and money to keep the Nihang traditions alive. 504 00:32:50,280 --> 00:32:53,640 These days, their role may be mainly ceremonial 505 00:32:53,640 --> 00:32:56,520 but they're keeping alive a way of life unchanged 506 00:32:56,520 --> 00:32:57,840 for hundreds of years. 507 00:33:06,520 --> 00:33:08,360 Every three days. Every three days. 508 00:33:08,360 --> 00:33:10,640 How are they received? How do people welcome them? 509 00:33:33,960 --> 00:33:37,000 As a child, you had in your mind, you know, I've seen them in books, 510 00:33:37,000 --> 00:33:40,200 I've seen them in videos, read about them, 511 00:33:40,200 --> 00:33:41,640 but then meeting them... 512 00:33:42,800 --> 00:33:44,440 Amazing, amazing. 513 00:33:47,560 --> 00:33:49,200 Is there a place for them in this world? 514 00:33:49,200 --> 00:33:52,920 Yes. It's not vanished in 300 years, I don't think they'll vanish. 515 00:33:52,920 --> 00:33:55,360 I think they're strong enough to look after themselves. 516 00:34:01,240 --> 00:34:02,800 Back on the Grand Trunk Road, 517 00:34:02,800 --> 00:34:05,000 I'm glad I was blessed by the Nihang... 518 00:34:06,720 --> 00:34:08,880 ..to protect me from the other drivers. 519 00:34:13,680 --> 00:34:15,720 See, that's it, I would never drive on this road. 520 00:34:15,720 --> 00:34:17,640 It's too dangerous, that's why I've got you. 521 00:34:21,760 --> 00:34:24,440 14 people an hour die on the roads?! 522 00:34:24,440 --> 00:34:26,160 One hour, yeah. 523 00:34:26,160 --> 00:34:27,440 That's unbelievable. 524 00:34:27,440 --> 00:34:28,480 This is very bad. 525 00:34:29,600 --> 00:34:31,080 No, I would never let... 526 00:34:31,080 --> 00:34:33,440 You concentrate driving and I'll kid that I'm not 527 00:34:33,440 --> 00:34:34,640 bricking myself. 528 00:34:38,560 --> 00:34:43,200 We're heading deep into the heart of rural Punjab, and I can see this is 529 00:34:43,200 --> 00:34:45,000 proper farming country. 530 00:34:45,000 --> 00:34:47,360 This place is said to have some of the 531 00:34:47,360 --> 00:34:50,720 most fertile land on the planet. 532 00:34:50,720 --> 00:34:51,880 I've been looking forward 533 00:34:51,880 --> 00:34:54,520 to this detour off the GT Road. 534 00:34:54,520 --> 00:34:57,360 It couldn't be more of a contrast to where I've been. 535 00:34:59,440 --> 00:35:00,600 Listen... 536 00:35:01,720 --> 00:35:06,760 Tractors, birds, lush greenness. 537 00:35:06,760 --> 00:35:09,200 This is the Punjab of my childhood memories, 538 00:35:09,200 --> 00:35:12,240 the movies and everything, fields of sugar cane, I just wanted to grab 539 00:35:12,240 --> 00:35:15,400 a bit and chew it and walk through the fields but it's not ready. 540 00:35:15,400 --> 00:35:18,680 Such a change from Amritsar. 541 00:35:18,680 --> 00:35:20,800 And the drive this morning, you could just see it, 542 00:35:20,800 --> 00:35:22,800 all the green, the lushness. 543 00:35:22,800 --> 00:35:25,400 This is amazing, this is why Punjab, 544 00:35:25,400 --> 00:35:28,680 land of five rivers, is a fertile ground. 545 00:35:28,680 --> 00:35:31,080 It's always been prized as a bread basket. 546 00:35:32,800 --> 00:35:36,800 Punjabis have a reputation for being skilled and hard-working... 547 00:35:37,840 --> 00:35:41,080 ..and countries from Italy to Russia actually advertise 548 00:35:41,080 --> 00:35:42,320 for Punjabi farmers. 549 00:35:43,800 --> 00:35:45,680 Wheat and other grains grow here 550 00:35:45,680 --> 00:35:48,840 in abundance and, along with dairy products, they form the 551 00:35:48,840 --> 00:35:51,200 cornerstone of the Punjabi diet. 552 00:36:04,760 --> 00:36:09,520 We've been on the road for hours now and yes, I'm getting hungry. 553 00:36:09,520 --> 00:36:12,480 It's a perfect opportunity to see how the Punjabis 554 00:36:12,480 --> 00:36:14,600 do a motorway pit stop. 555 00:36:14,600 --> 00:36:15,840 Oh. 556 00:36:18,680 --> 00:36:19,880 Ah. 557 00:36:21,720 --> 00:36:23,360 Oh, my back. 558 00:36:25,240 --> 00:36:28,600 We've just got off the GT Road, a traditional dhaba, Ludhiana. 559 00:36:28,600 --> 00:36:31,480 A dhaba is a motorway caff, service station. 560 00:36:31,480 --> 00:36:35,080 Nothing like this is in the UK, they've been here forever. 561 00:36:35,080 --> 00:36:37,760 Simple food, cooked freshly. 562 00:36:38,840 --> 00:36:41,640 This is wood fire, this is traditional. 563 00:36:41,640 --> 00:36:43,280 Yeah, traditional fire. Wood. 564 00:36:43,280 --> 00:36:45,080 Can I have a look round? Is it possible? 565 00:36:45,080 --> 00:36:48,080 Yeah, why not? Come, come, come. Yeah, yeah. 566 00:36:50,800 --> 00:36:51,840 Wow. 567 00:36:51,840 --> 00:36:54,200 So I've been in India a few days and this is the first time 568 00:36:54,200 --> 00:36:57,640 I've got up, close and personal to a tandoor in Punjab and it's... 569 00:36:59,040 --> 00:37:02,480 The heat's 360 degrees heat, it's concave and 570 00:37:02,480 --> 00:37:05,480 you have to feel the heat coming off that, it's taking seconds to cook. 571 00:37:05,480 --> 00:37:07,960 And that was one of the great things with tandoor, 572 00:37:07,960 --> 00:37:10,920 little fuel, all the heat was concentrated and the 573 00:37:10,920 --> 00:37:12,880 flavour you get is unbelievable. 574 00:37:12,880 --> 00:37:15,480 This is quintessential Punjabi at heart, 575 00:37:15,480 --> 00:37:19,160 this is the thing, the tandoori chickens, the naans, the breads 576 00:37:19,160 --> 00:37:20,800 and everything comes out of this oven. 577 00:37:20,800 --> 00:37:24,800 This is what people know of Punjabi food outside around the world. 578 00:37:30,560 --> 00:37:31,680 This is it. 579 00:37:31,680 --> 00:37:32,840 Now, what to eat. 580 00:37:32,840 --> 00:37:36,440 Well, this is what I've been waiting for. 581 00:37:36,440 --> 00:37:39,960 In dhabas like this, they cook simple, seasonal food. 582 00:37:41,200 --> 00:37:44,840 The traditional dish of Punjab is only available this 583 00:37:44,840 --> 00:37:46,960 time of year, so I've struck it lucky. 584 00:37:48,680 --> 00:37:50,800 Green mustard-top curry, 585 00:37:50,800 --> 00:37:54,440 a Punjabi-sized portion of white buffalo butter 586 00:37:54,440 --> 00:37:55,920 and corn rotis. 587 00:37:55,920 --> 00:37:58,000 This is hearty, farming food 588 00:37:58,000 --> 00:38:00,960 that you won't find on the menu outside of Punjab. 589 00:38:02,240 --> 00:38:07,680 This is Punjab - the culture, the lifestyle, everything in a mouthful. 590 00:38:10,840 --> 00:38:14,240 It is lovely. Great food. 591 00:38:14,240 --> 00:38:17,040 Another local favourite is buffalo milk, 592 00:38:17,040 --> 00:38:20,040 and this lassi is as fresh as you can get. 593 00:38:20,040 --> 00:38:24,360 They have real live buffalos out back, how mad is that?! 594 00:38:24,360 --> 00:38:25,560 Cheers. Cheers. 595 00:38:27,560 --> 00:38:29,720 Lassi nice? Lassi's very nice. 596 00:38:29,720 --> 00:38:31,600 It's sharp and it's creamy, though. 597 00:38:33,320 --> 00:38:38,360 If we had these kind of pit stops on the M1, eh, be a much better place. 598 00:38:38,360 --> 00:38:40,080 This is fantastic. 599 00:38:43,720 --> 00:38:47,360 Only one more stop tonight and that's to sleep! 600 00:38:47,360 --> 00:38:49,240 Well, that's the plan. 601 00:38:52,440 --> 00:38:56,440 Me and Gurnam have rocked up in the middle of rural Punjab 602 00:38:56,440 --> 00:38:59,800 to one of these wedding venues that are sprouting up all over 603 00:38:59,800 --> 00:39:04,080 the place for a quiet rest for the rest of our journey and... 604 00:39:05,720 --> 00:39:08,960 Yes, you can hear it, Bungarra music, there's a wedding. 605 00:39:11,240 --> 00:39:12,600 Tired. 606 00:39:21,280 --> 00:39:24,000 In my search for authentic Punjabi cooking, 607 00:39:24,000 --> 00:39:27,320 I've tried the food of pilgrims, travellers and families, 608 00:39:27,320 --> 00:39:29,840 but I've yet to find the high-end of Britain's 609 00:39:29,840 --> 00:39:32,920 most popular cuisine until now. 610 00:39:32,920 --> 00:39:35,040 I have a date with royalty! 611 00:39:38,040 --> 00:39:42,000 The maharajahs once ruled the stately kingdoms across India. 612 00:39:45,000 --> 00:39:48,480 And it took some doing but I'm off to see how the other half eat. 613 00:39:51,640 --> 00:39:54,720 I'm meeting a member of the Patiala royal family 614 00:39:54,720 --> 00:39:57,040 at one of their modest country retreats. 615 00:39:58,440 --> 00:40:00,960 And they've given me a changing room that's, 616 00:40:00,960 --> 00:40:03,880 ooh, just a tad smaller than my house. 617 00:40:08,080 --> 00:40:09,720 So we've hit the mother lode, 618 00:40:09,720 --> 00:40:13,240 we're here to taste the ultimate in Punjabi food, 619 00:40:13,240 --> 00:40:15,880 rich, decadent food from the maharajas, 620 00:40:15,880 --> 00:40:18,760 and I'm here with a member of the Patiala royal family. 621 00:40:18,760 --> 00:40:21,200 But what do you wear when you go and see a maharaja? 622 00:40:23,040 --> 00:40:24,280 Look at that. 623 00:40:24,280 --> 00:40:27,400 Fingers crossed I've not put too much poundage on. 624 00:40:29,680 --> 00:40:30,800 Hold on. 625 00:40:34,200 --> 00:40:35,320 Oh, yeah. 626 00:40:35,320 --> 00:40:37,800 I thought I'd be nervous but I'm not, he's a food lover. 627 00:40:37,800 --> 00:40:41,280 We all speak the same language, "Mmm, aah, lovely!" 628 00:40:41,280 --> 00:40:42,920 You know what I mean, that'll be great. 629 00:40:42,920 --> 00:40:45,720 I'm nervous cooking with him, though. Talking food's one thing, 630 00:40:45,720 --> 00:40:46,880 but cooking with him... 631 00:40:48,160 --> 00:40:51,400 The royal secretary is waiting to take me to the raja saab, 632 00:40:51,400 --> 00:40:52,440 Randhir Singh. 633 00:40:53,760 --> 00:40:54,920 Thank you very much. 634 00:40:57,080 --> 00:41:00,000 His grandfather, the maharaja Bhupinder Singh, 635 00:41:00,000 --> 00:41:04,400 was famous for his extravagant feasts and his love of cooking, 636 00:41:04,400 --> 00:41:07,600 both traditions that have been passed down through the generations. 637 00:41:09,920 --> 00:41:12,960 Oh, I might have overdone it with the jacket. 638 00:41:15,520 --> 00:41:17,640 I'm very honoured that you're going to show me... 639 00:41:17,640 --> 00:41:19,920 you're going to cook with me. I was very surprised. 640 00:41:19,920 --> 00:41:21,040 No, no, I'll cook for you. 641 00:41:21,040 --> 00:41:24,960 We cook regularly whenever the members of the family are together. 642 00:41:24,960 --> 00:41:28,040 We cook and, in fact, everyone cooks in the evening. 643 00:41:28,040 --> 00:41:31,040 It's much better we are spending time than talking business 644 00:41:31,040 --> 00:41:32,960 or talking politics, much nicer. 645 00:41:32,960 --> 00:41:34,080 So who takes control? 646 00:41:34,080 --> 00:41:36,560 Because obviously you still need one chef in a kitchen. 647 00:41:36,560 --> 00:41:39,040 No, no, no, everyone cooks their own dish. Right. 648 00:41:39,040 --> 00:41:42,920 You have these coal fires lit separately 649 00:41:42,920 --> 00:41:45,480 and everyone has their own recipe, so it's laid out. 650 00:41:45,480 --> 00:41:48,600 And somebody makes a rice, somebody makes some mutton, 651 00:41:48,600 --> 00:41:51,440 somebody's cooking a chicken, a dhal or a vegetable. 652 00:41:51,440 --> 00:41:54,480 So there's no conflict there, everybody just does their speciality? 653 00:41:54,480 --> 00:41:55,760 No, no, no. No conflict. 654 00:41:55,760 --> 00:41:57,920 The recipes come from the family. OK. 655 00:42:00,200 --> 00:42:02,080 I'm not sure what to expect 656 00:42:02,080 --> 00:42:05,440 and I still feel a bit nervous in such illustrious company. 657 00:42:06,760 --> 00:42:09,480 But, phew, it turns out the royals 658 00:42:09,480 --> 00:42:13,320 cook on the same traditional stoves that I've seen all over Punjab. 659 00:42:14,520 --> 00:42:18,640 But they do have the bonus of some man servants to lend a hand. 660 00:42:18,640 --> 00:42:23,360 This is what I call a kitchen, and the views, and it's beautiful, 661 00:42:23,360 --> 00:42:25,320 but a bit hot for me I think. 662 00:42:25,320 --> 00:42:27,440 Bit hot. Yeah! 663 00:42:27,440 --> 00:42:30,120 I am your commis chef. If you tell me what to do, I shall... 664 00:42:30,120 --> 00:42:31,200 Yes, certainly. 665 00:42:31,200 --> 00:42:33,920 We're cooking a rich chicken and apricot dish 666 00:42:33,920 --> 00:42:36,320 that's a favourite in the Patiala palace. 667 00:42:38,360 --> 00:42:42,160 No surprise at the first ingredient - ghee. 668 00:42:42,160 --> 00:42:46,000 This royal household gets through 70 kilos of ghee a month 669 00:42:46,000 --> 00:42:48,680 compared with most families who use around two. 670 00:42:50,520 --> 00:42:53,320 We add black peppercorns, cloves... 671 00:42:54,680 --> 00:42:57,720 And we use the bigger cardamom. ..and onions. 672 00:42:58,840 --> 00:43:02,160 So just gently frying it with the spices to get that 673 00:43:02,160 --> 00:43:05,400 golden brown, to add flavour to the dish at each step. 674 00:43:05,400 --> 00:43:07,960 This is garlic paste and ginger paste. 675 00:43:07,960 --> 00:43:10,000 Garlic and ginger paste, OK. 676 00:43:10,000 --> 00:43:13,680 'Even the royals have the basic Punjabi spice box.' 677 00:43:13,680 --> 00:43:14,720 OK, the chillies. 678 00:43:16,120 --> 00:43:18,040 And this is red chilli colour. 679 00:43:18,040 --> 00:43:20,000 Just ground coriander. Yeah. 680 00:43:20,000 --> 00:43:23,040 The simple use of spices to bring out the best in the flavour, 681 00:43:23,040 --> 00:43:24,400 and that's what they have to do. 682 00:43:24,400 --> 00:43:27,480 And they do flavour it. For every dish you have a different spice. 683 00:43:30,040 --> 00:43:32,240 All the men helping in doing their dishes, 684 00:43:32,240 --> 00:43:36,000 was there ever competitions who makes the same...the best dish? 685 00:43:36,000 --> 00:43:37,360 I don't think so. No. 686 00:43:37,360 --> 00:43:40,800 'I won't be getting any royal gossip then, but I will be getting 687 00:43:40,800 --> 00:43:42,400 'some royal tips.' 688 00:43:42,400 --> 00:43:45,560 You see, when the bubbles become clear 689 00:43:45,560 --> 00:43:48,800 you know that the masala has been cooked. OK. 690 00:43:48,800 --> 00:43:51,760 After all of the vegetarian dishes I've tried, 691 00:43:51,760 --> 00:43:54,800 this already feels more extravagant. 692 00:43:54,800 --> 00:43:58,120 And if you're going to eat meat in Punjab, it's usually chicken. 693 00:43:59,200 --> 00:44:02,120 The smell is just phenomenal. 694 00:44:04,640 --> 00:44:07,480 The maharajas' recipes have been influenced by their links 695 00:44:07,480 --> 00:44:09,160 with neighbouring royal courts. 696 00:44:10,400 --> 00:44:12,080 Once the chicken has simmered 697 00:44:12,080 --> 00:44:15,400 we add the dried apricots, which give it a sweet taste 698 00:44:15,400 --> 00:44:18,200 like the curries of Afghanistan to the north. 699 00:44:18,200 --> 00:44:20,000 Because the apricots have been soaked, 700 00:44:20,000 --> 00:44:22,120 they just need a couple of minutes to cook through 701 00:44:22,120 --> 00:44:25,000 and all the flavours will marry together and that's it. That's it. 702 00:44:26,480 --> 00:44:29,640 The Patiala royals were famous for their lavish hospitality. 703 00:44:30,720 --> 00:44:34,760 And in the 1930s, at the height of their power and wealth, 704 00:44:34,760 --> 00:44:38,840 this royal household would feed up to 3,500 people a day. 705 00:44:40,920 --> 00:44:44,720 Today's menu includes two types of dhal, 706 00:44:44,720 --> 00:44:49,560 a rich, marinated lamb and yoghurt, a creamy chicken pilau dish, 707 00:44:49,560 --> 00:44:53,760 spicy cauliflower, and our sweet chicken and apricots. 708 00:45:01,000 --> 00:45:02,400 The apricots and the chicken... 709 00:45:03,720 --> 00:45:07,200 It's that surprise of sharp sweetness. 710 00:45:07,200 --> 00:45:08,960 Does it remind you of your childhood, 711 00:45:08,960 --> 00:45:12,000 of the taste that you used to have when you used to get together? 712 00:45:12,000 --> 00:45:15,000 The food is the same, the dishes were many more. 713 00:45:15,000 --> 00:45:16,600 Many more? Many more dishes. 714 00:45:16,600 --> 00:45:20,640 They came in a big silver salver and there were these bowls like this 715 00:45:20,640 --> 00:45:23,040 and they had 51 dishes including the rices, 716 00:45:23,040 --> 00:45:26,960 at least two pilaus, so, a lot of food was made then. 717 00:45:26,960 --> 00:45:29,160 And your grandfather was a character? 718 00:45:29,160 --> 00:45:33,440 He had 42 Rolls-Royces in the garage at one time. 42?! 719 00:45:33,440 --> 00:45:35,800 He was very fond of dogs as well. 720 00:45:35,800 --> 00:45:38,880 We had a kennels in Patiala which had 1,000 dogs in them. 721 00:45:38,880 --> 00:45:40,200 1,000 dogs? 722 00:45:40,200 --> 00:45:42,160 He had a Rolls-Royce for his hunting, 723 00:45:42,160 --> 00:45:45,280 so he used to carry his dogs in that Rolls-Royce at the back. 724 00:45:45,280 --> 00:45:46,680 Get some more, you've got... 725 00:45:46,680 --> 00:45:48,680 No, honestly, this is fabulous. 726 00:45:48,680 --> 00:45:51,600 This is light, you won't have to worry about... No, no, no. 727 00:45:52,680 --> 00:45:53,920 'Oh, go on, then.' 728 00:45:55,560 --> 00:45:57,360 When in Rome. 729 00:45:57,360 --> 00:46:01,360 These days, many maharajas have swapped their palaces for politics 730 00:46:01,360 --> 00:46:05,440 and business, but they still know how to put on a cracking spread, 731 00:46:05,440 --> 00:46:07,880 and I'm glad the recipes have survived. 732 00:46:09,160 --> 00:46:11,400 The dishes have been wonderful. 733 00:46:11,400 --> 00:46:15,200 Very subtle, delicately flavoured, you can taste all the ingredients. 734 00:46:15,200 --> 00:46:16,320 It was wonderful. 735 00:46:17,560 --> 00:46:20,120 Raja Saab, thank you very much. Happy that you enjoyed it. 736 00:46:20,120 --> 00:46:21,520 OK, thank you. Bye. Bye. 737 00:46:24,320 --> 00:46:25,440 Delhi. 738 00:46:27,520 --> 00:46:30,040 With a full belly and a slightly tighter jacket... 739 00:46:32,360 --> 00:46:35,120 ..the rich food of the maharajas has definitely lived up 740 00:46:35,120 --> 00:46:36,600 to my expectation. 741 00:46:38,440 --> 00:46:40,520 But back on the Grand Trunk Road 742 00:46:40,520 --> 00:46:42,840 I'm ready for the last leg of the journey. 743 00:46:44,400 --> 00:46:46,000 We're in Delhi, baby! 744 00:46:47,400 --> 00:46:50,960 The capital of India, population 22 million. 745 00:46:52,200 --> 00:46:55,160 As I enter the outskirts of the city, I can't help 746 00:46:55,160 --> 00:46:58,520 but notice health and fitness clubs everywhere. 747 00:46:58,520 --> 00:47:01,720 A rich diet and changing lifestyles have made India 748 00:47:01,720 --> 00:47:04,400 the type-two diabetes capital of the world. 749 00:47:05,760 --> 00:47:07,040 Maybe it's a sign. 750 00:47:10,440 --> 00:47:11,480 Wish me luck. 751 00:47:13,520 --> 00:47:15,720 So, after a week of indulging myself 752 00:47:15,720 --> 00:47:18,280 and especially with the maharaja, that fantastic food, 753 00:47:18,280 --> 00:47:20,840 the jacket's feeling a bit tight, eh, so I thought, 754 00:47:20,840 --> 00:47:23,000 the latest craze, Bolly Sweat. 755 00:47:23,000 --> 00:47:24,640 Bit of fitness, a bit of dance. 756 00:47:26,080 --> 00:47:28,120 I'm watching them and I'm getting a bit worried. 757 00:47:28,120 --> 00:47:30,640 It's more than my screwing the light bulbs, big present, 758 00:47:30,640 --> 00:47:32,800 small present, fish, all that. 759 00:47:32,800 --> 00:47:34,040 It's a bit technical. 760 00:47:35,640 --> 00:47:38,440 How are you? I'm Anant, I'm the director of Delhi Dance Academy. 761 00:47:38,440 --> 00:47:42,440 Excellent. I'm...I'm a bit worried in case you kill me dancing. 762 00:47:42,440 --> 00:47:45,480 Yeah, I mean, just not worry, it's a really chilled out 763 00:47:45,480 --> 00:47:46,760 Bollywood dance class. 764 00:47:46,760 --> 00:47:49,320 Is this a big craze now? Is Bolly Sweat the thing? 765 00:47:49,320 --> 00:47:52,160 What happens in India is because Bollywood music is so popular, 766 00:47:52,160 --> 00:47:54,480 people want to do the same thing on Bollywood songs, 767 00:47:54,480 --> 00:47:56,000 and that's what we are doing here. 768 00:47:56,000 --> 00:47:59,040 But why is there such a big increase in these kinds of classes? 769 00:47:59,040 --> 00:48:01,960 Because driving here I've seen fitness spas and health clubs 770 00:48:01,960 --> 00:48:04,560 and everything like that. There's a lot of general influence 771 00:48:04,560 --> 00:48:07,520 of the western culture coming in. People are getting more aware, 772 00:48:07,520 --> 00:48:10,880 so there are people working in multi-national companies these days. 773 00:48:10,880 --> 00:48:13,320 There are gyms in the companies, there are swimming pools 774 00:48:13,320 --> 00:48:14,440 and stuff like that. OK. 775 00:48:14,440 --> 00:48:17,040 These companies have, you know, a culture of fitness, 776 00:48:17,040 --> 00:48:19,680 you know you need to make them a regular habit for yourself. 777 00:48:19,680 --> 00:48:21,240 Gently. Gently for me. 778 00:48:21,240 --> 00:48:24,160 We're going to take it slow, you know, it's a group class, 779 00:48:24,160 --> 00:48:27,240 so there'll be other people doing it with you. Right, let's go. 780 00:48:27,240 --> 00:48:28,480 Great, come. 781 00:48:45,160 --> 00:48:47,240 The nation's waistlines might be growing 782 00:48:47,240 --> 00:48:51,640 but so is its fitness industry, now worth £1 billion a year! 783 00:48:53,040 --> 00:48:56,000 As ever, in India, the people seem to keep what they love 784 00:48:56,000 --> 00:48:57,400 and embrace what's new. 785 00:48:59,840 --> 00:49:01,520 That's all right, that was all right. 786 00:49:12,880 --> 00:49:14,560 Turns out I'm a natural, 787 00:49:14,560 --> 00:49:17,680 or maybe these Bollywood moves are just second nature. 788 00:49:25,600 --> 00:49:29,800 Bolly Sweat, fantastic. I've lost 2st, I'm off for a burger. 789 00:49:31,880 --> 00:49:34,160 While I wait for my heart rate to recover, 790 00:49:34,160 --> 00:49:38,720 I want to find out from my fellow dancers why this is so popular. 791 00:49:45,920 --> 00:49:48,640 This is not arranged marriages any more? 792 00:49:48,640 --> 00:49:49,840 There are but... 793 00:49:51,800 --> 00:49:54,560 Now we have... Ah, OK, so... 794 00:50:00,080 --> 00:50:03,520 Is that one of the criteria? Do they give, "I want size zero." 795 00:50:10,720 --> 00:50:13,800 But the way to this hunk's heart is still food. 796 00:50:13,800 --> 00:50:15,800 So what's hot in Delhi now? 797 00:50:15,800 --> 00:50:17,160 Momos. What's momos? 798 00:50:22,200 --> 00:50:24,080 Ready to go? Yes. Come on, excellent. 799 00:50:26,320 --> 00:50:30,280 The Bolly Sweaters are taking me to their regular momo stand 800 00:50:30,280 --> 00:50:31,480 around the corner. 801 00:50:34,480 --> 00:50:35,720 I'll let you. 802 00:50:35,720 --> 00:50:37,640 This is the first time I've had food here 803 00:50:37,640 --> 00:50:41,920 that isn't the traditional Punjabi flavours that I grew up with. 804 00:50:41,920 --> 00:50:43,760 Vegetarian. 805 00:50:43,760 --> 00:50:45,160 So that's the momo. 806 00:50:45,160 --> 00:50:47,000 And that's cooked in a tandoor? 807 00:50:48,240 --> 00:50:49,280 That's it's, stuffed. 808 00:50:52,120 --> 00:50:56,040 You've got this fantastic light dough, like dim sum. 809 00:50:56,040 --> 00:50:57,080 The filling - 810 00:50:57,080 --> 00:51:00,880 garlic, ginger, chilli, onion, spices, 811 00:51:00,880 --> 00:51:02,960 and then you've got this fantastic chutney, 812 00:51:02,960 --> 00:51:05,720 vinegar and chilli, simple two ingredients. 813 00:51:05,720 --> 00:51:07,480 It's hot, but then it doesn't detract 814 00:51:07,480 --> 00:51:08,880 from the flavour of the momo. 815 00:51:10,400 --> 00:51:14,000 The Punjabi's came after partition, changed the food scene, 816 00:51:14,000 --> 00:51:18,080 completely, and now the things like the momos, that's Tibetan, 817 00:51:18,080 --> 00:51:19,120 and we made our own. 818 00:51:19,120 --> 00:51:21,560 It's amazing how everything keeps reinventing itself. 819 00:51:24,240 --> 00:51:27,680 These young Delhiites have got it sorted - work hard, play hard. 820 00:51:27,680 --> 00:51:29,280 After a Bollywood Sweat class, 821 00:51:29,280 --> 00:51:31,520 they're out for the best food that's on the street 822 00:51:31,520 --> 00:51:34,680 and it just shows you the face of Delhi food keeps changing. 823 00:51:34,680 --> 00:51:37,520 Refugees from Tibet, from Afghanistan 824 00:51:37,520 --> 00:51:39,600 bringing their food in and changing the culture 825 00:51:39,600 --> 00:51:41,240 of food slightly again. 826 00:51:41,240 --> 00:51:42,680 It's obviously keep evolving. 827 00:51:42,680 --> 00:51:44,960 I think that's what's wonderful about food in India, 828 00:51:44,960 --> 00:51:46,840 the traditions are going to stay the same 829 00:51:46,840 --> 00:51:49,040 but they've got tweaks from whatever comes in. 830 00:52:09,360 --> 00:52:13,080 It's my last day and I'm finally in the heart of the capital. 831 00:52:14,120 --> 00:52:16,680 Today I will be reunited 832 00:52:16,680 --> 00:52:19,760 with the side of my family who stayed in Delhi 833 00:52:19,760 --> 00:52:26,280 after travelling 300 miles from Amritsar as refugees back in 1947. 834 00:52:26,280 --> 00:52:29,720 From what I know, temporary camps were set up all over the city 835 00:52:29,720 --> 00:52:33,400 to shelter the millions of displaced people, 836 00:52:33,400 --> 00:52:36,800 and my great-grandparents ended up here at the Red Fort. 837 00:52:39,120 --> 00:52:43,920 This was one of the largest refugee camps just after partition. 838 00:52:43,920 --> 00:52:49,720 With 13 million people moved over an arbitrary line drawn on a map. 839 00:52:49,720 --> 00:52:51,960 My great-grandparents done that journey. 840 00:52:51,960 --> 00:52:54,360 I can't even imagine what hardships they went through. 841 00:52:54,360 --> 00:52:57,640 We came down in fun, in luxury, stopping to have food. They didn't 842 00:52:57,640 --> 00:53:00,560 even know when their next meal was come, or whether they'd make it. 843 00:53:02,360 --> 00:53:04,400 Imagine this full of people, tents, 844 00:53:04,400 --> 00:53:07,640 but you're on the road for weeks to get here 845 00:53:07,640 --> 00:53:10,480 and then you're thrown into this. 846 00:53:10,480 --> 00:53:13,320 And that's for millions of people. We were just one family. 847 00:53:14,480 --> 00:53:18,400 And that dispersed the Sikhs throughout the world. 848 00:53:18,400 --> 00:53:22,880 But a million people dying in that time, I can't get my head round it. 849 00:53:22,880 --> 00:53:24,000 No, I can't even get my... 850 00:53:24,000 --> 00:53:26,800 There's only five million people in Scotland, whole of Scotland. 851 00:53:28,200 --> 00:53:30,640 But there's things to find out now so I can tell my kids. 852 00:53:33,960 --> 00:53:37,520 I need to speak to somebody who actually lived through partition. 853 00:53:38,840 --> 00:53:42,120 I'm going to see my great-uncle at the family home 854 00:53:42,120 --> 00:53:44,040 that sits on the same plot 855 00:53:44,040 --> 00:53:47,040 my great-grandparents were given 60 years ago. 856 00:53:50,320 --> 00:53:52,000 There you go. 857 00:53:52,000 --> 00:53:56,080 That's the house, great-grandad's name, 858 00:53:56,080 --> 00:53:59,080 my grandad's name, my granny's name. 859 00:53:59,080 --> 00:54:01,200 It's so hard to imagine that 860 00:54:01,200 --> 00:54:02,880 when they came here, this was nothing. 861 00:54:02,880 --> 00:54:06,000 This was all farmland, all everywhere, 862 00:54:06,000 --> 00:54:08,640 this was the blocks going backwards. 863 00:54:08,640 --> 00:54:12,840 15ft by 60ft, that was it, that's what they were given, 864 00:54:12,840 --> 00:54:16,760 and it shows the heart of the Punjabi spirit, 865 00:54:16,760 --> 00:54:18,920 look what they've built round, look at the house. 866 00:54:18,920 --> 00:54:21,800 They stayed, they prospered, they travelled the world. 867 00:54:21,800 --> 00:54:23,120 I'm just glad to be home. 868 00:54:30,920 --> 00:54:34,240 My parents have flown over from Scotland for their regular visit. 869 00:54:42,920 --> 00:54:45,720 It feels good to see my mum 870 00:54:45,720 --> 00:54:47,200 and my dad. 871 00:54:47,200 --> 00:54:49,200 They've arranged for me to spend time 872 00:54:49,200 --> 00:54:52,200 with my 89-year-old great-uncle Ammar. 873 00:54:55,280 --> 00:54:58,200 I've only met him once and I've never spoken to him 874 00:54:58,200 --> 00:55:01,520 about our family history or his own experiences. 875 00:55:12,600 --> 00:55:17,240 He got to the camps around 13 or 14, he was there for six years. 876 00:55:17,240 --> 00:55:19,440 Formative years till he was 20. 877 00:55:19,440 --> 00:55:21,160 I can't even imagine what it was like. 878 00:55:23,240 --> 00:55:27,200 So, when they were coming down, there was so much danger there. 879 00:55:27,200 --> 00:55:30,320 This was a partition on religious grounds. 880 00:55:30,320 --> 00:55:33,320 Which you got Muslims were attacking the Sikhs. 881 00:55:33,320 --> 00:55:35,880 On the way up, the Hindus were attacking the Muslims. 882 00:55:35,880 --> 00:55:38,560 It was horrendously sad, you see. 883 00:55:38,560 --> 00:55:41,320 Guns, bombs going off and everything. 884 00:55:43,600 --> 00:55:47,400 'I asked my great-uncle about my grandad, how he got to the UK. 885 00:55:47,400 --> 00:55:51,160 'It was like a lot of Punjabis at the time, they went to find work 886 00:55:51,160 --> 00:55:53,440 'and their plans were to go, make a little bit of money 887 00:55:53,440 --> 00:55:55,720 'and come back to their homes here. 888 00:55:55,720 --> 00:55:58,960 'But, unfortunately, he died in a car accident' 889 00:55:58,960 --> 00:56:02,040 and that's how my family, my grandad, my granny 890 00:56:02,040 --> 00:56:03,640 and everybody stayed up in Scotland. 891 00:56:03,640 --> 00:56:06,160 They ended up there, ended putting their roots down there. 892 00:56:08,320 --> 00:56:12,360 I asked my great-granduncle what he feels because we're in Scotland, 893 00:56:12,360 --> 00:56:15,000 there's other people round parts of the world and everything. 894 00:56:15,000 --> 00:56:18,560 He says, "It's great. It's God's will, it is amazing." 895 00:56:18,560 --> 00:56:21,160 And he says it doesn't matter because we're just one blood 896 00:56:21,160 --> 00:56:22,320 and that's it. 897 00:56:50,040 --> 00:56:53,280 It's been years since we met, but then even then you didn't ask these 898 00:56:53,280 --> 00:56:56,280 questions because when you're young you think you've got all the time 899 00:56:56,280 --> 00:56:59,840 in the world and everybody's going to be there and you know it all. 900 00:56:59,840 --> 00:57:00,920 It's not true. 901 00:57:07,840 --> 00:57:12,120 I'm realising my family bonds, like my Indian traditions, are strong 902 00:57:12,120 --> 00:57:14,440 and that good food brings people together. 903 00:57:16,520 --> 00:57:19,720 My mum has cooked up a feast, and this journey has shown me 904 00:57:19,720 --> 00:57:22,520 that her Punjabi cooking is the real deal. 905 00:57:23,960 --> 00:57:25,280 Is that nice? Yes. 906 00:57:27,720 --> 00:57:30,920 I came to find out if I could fit in and I can. 907 00:57:32,320 --> 00:57:36,560 I can have one foot in Punjab and one foot in Scotland 908 00:57:36,560 --> 00:57:41,200 and I am proud to have two strong, independent heritages 909 00:57:41,200 --> 00:57:42,960 that I can call my own. 910 00:57:46,000 --> 00:57:47,680 I'm so fortunate. 911 00:57:47,680 --> 00:57:49,960 I didn't know more than half the stuff that I've been 912 00:57:49,960 --> 00:57:54,760 discovering coming down the same road as my great-great-grandparents 913 00:57:54,760 --> 00:57:56,640 as refugees. 914 00:57:56,640 --> 00:57:59,520 And it's my duty to tell my kids 915 00:57:59,520 --> 00:58:01,640 and I can't wait to see them to tell them. 916 00:58:07,640 --> 00:58:09,080 It's a bloke's dream this is. 917 00:58:09,080 --> 00:58:12,040 In Argentina, MasterChef judge John Torode 918 00:58:12,040 --> 00:58:15,120 learns the secrets of cooking with fire... 919 00:58:15,120 --> 00:58:16,840 Wow, look at that. 920 00:58:16,840 --> 00:58:21,320 ..and searches for the best piece of steak in the world. 921 00:58:21,320 --> 00:58:22,560 What a way to eat. 922 00:58:22,560 --> 00:58:23,840 What a way to cook. 923 00:58:23,840 --> 00:58:24,880 What a way to live.