1 00:00:03,720 --> 00:00:09,840 In 1840, one man transformed travel in Britain. 2 00:00:09,840 --> 00:00:16,480 His name was George Bradshaw, and his railway guides inspired the Victorians to take to the tracks. 3 00:00:16,480 --> 00:00:21,800 Stop by stop, he told them where to travel, what to see and where to stay. 4 00:00:21,800 --> 00:00:27,720 Now, 170 years later, I'm making four long journeys across the length 5 00:00:27,720 --> 00:00:33,560 and breadth of the country to see what remains of Bradshaw's Britain. 6 00:00:50,320 --> 00:00:55,120 Until the 1840s, travelling by rail in Britain was really complicated. 7 00:00:55,120 --> 00:00:57,680 There were already 20,000 miles of track 8 00:00:57,680 --> 00:00:59,920 and more railway companies than we have today. 9 00:00:59,920 --> 00:01:04,080 The only way you could find out the timetable was by going to your local station. 10 00:01:04,080 --> 00:01:11,120 Then, in 1841, along came George Bradshaw, a map engraver from Manchester, who put the timetables 11 00:01:11,120 --> 00:01:15,200 together and produced the first handbook of Britain's railways. 12 00:01:18,080 --> 00:01:23,480 I want to find out the extent to which the industries and the places and the types of people 13 00:01:23,480 --> 00:01:28,320 that Bradshaw wrote about still exist and whether a Victorian handbook 14 00:01:28,320 --> 00:01:33,680 can help us to understand the way that the railways made us the people that we are today. 15 00:01:38,000 --> 00:01:42,000 First up, I'll be learning the lingo in Liverpool... 16 00:01:42,000 --> 00:01:46,840 You have the Beatles - Paul McCartney, very soft, sort of, "How you doing, Michael? How's things?" 17 00:01:46,840 --> 00:01:50,240 And then you've got Lennon, with his nasal sort of twang, the adenoids. 18 00:01:50,240 --> 00:01:56,240 ..then visiting the birthplace of the first steam locomotive, George Stephenson's Rocket... 19 00:01:56,240 --> 00:02:02,760 It was an absolutely astonishing event in railway and, indeed, world history. 20 00:02:02,760 --> 00:02:06,080 ..and having a go at folding an Eccles cake. 21 00:02:06,080 --> 00:02:07,400 Surgeon's hands! 22 00:02:07,400 --> 00:02:09,480 Aaah! 23 00:02:09,480 --> 00:02:12,040 That's one of mine. You may have guessed. 24 00:02:18,440 --> 00:02:22,240 All this week, I'll be travelling west to east, 25 00:02:22,240 --> 00:02:25,000 starting from Liverpool, along the oldest 26 00:02:25,000 --> 00:02:26,880 passenger railway in the world, 27 00:02:26,880 --> 00:02:28,560 on the line that was built to take cotton 28 00:02:28,560 --> 00:02:32,360 from Liverpool's docks to Manchester's mills. 29 00:02:32,360 --> 00:02:34,000 After stopping at Skipton, 30 00:02:34,000 --> 00:02:36,280 I'll carry on across Yorkshire 31 00:02:36,280 --> 00:02:40,760 and eventually end up at the east-coast resort of Scarborough. 32 00:02:44,520 --> 00:02:47,640 Today, I'll be covering the first 30 miles 33 00:02:47,640 --> 00:02:49,880 via Rainhill to Eccles. 34 00:02:51,520 --> 00:02:56,920 And my first stop is Lime Street station, in Liverpool. 35 00:02:56,920 --> 00:02:58,440 I'm now in the tunnel 36 00:02:58,440 --> 00:03:02,080 that runs from Edge Hill into Liverpool Lime Street. 37 00:03:02,080 --> 00:03:03,720 It's a mile and a quarter long. 38 00:03:03,720 --> 00:03:08,240 It goes all the way under the city, and Bradshaw was incredibly impressed. 39 00:03:08,240 --> 00:03:15,280 And he said when people see this, they'll want to pay just tribute to the engineering skill 40 00:03:15,280 --> 00:03:20,080 of those people who delivered the railway to the very heart of the city of Liverpool. 41 00:03:24,200 --> 00:03:29,840 Bradshaw marvelled at the new railway line. But he was even more impressed 42 00:03:29,840 --> 00:03:34,160 by Lime Street, one of the first stations ever built. 43 00:03:37,200 --> 00:03:38,160 Morning. 44 00:03:40,840 --> 00:03:47,840 Bradshaw talks about Lime Street as having an Italian design, with many columns, and I suppose 45 00:03:47,840 --> 00:03:53,960 he must be referring to this part of the station, which is now rather run-down and tucked in a corner. 46 00:03:53,960 --> 00:03:58,880 Because when you come to Lime Street, what you're really impressed by is this enormous 47 00:03:58,880 --> 00:04:05,360 Victorian canopy of glass and iron. Magnificent. 48 00:04:05,360 --> 00:04:12,200 Liverpool has always been a vibrant city. 49 00:04:13,760 --> 00:04:18,000 In Bradshaw's day, it was a great port, second only to London. 50 00:04:21,800 --> 00:04:26,440 Today, its rich Victorian heritage sits alongside 51 00:04:26,440 --> 00:04:30,400 a shiny new Liverpool that's sprung up in the last few years. 52 00:04:36,160 --> 00:04:40,920 I love the way this brand-new glass building reflects the old Liverpool, 53 00:04:40,920 --> 00:04:44,880 the Liver Building, one of the most famous buildings on Merseyside. 54 00:04:47,840 --> 00:04:54,120 Throughout its history, the docks, more than anything else, have shaped Liverpool's character. 55 00:04:57,600 --> 00:05:03,560 Bradshaw's guide was struck by the huge numbers of people moving through the city. 56 00:05:03,560 --> 00:05:10,840 "Liverpool, as might be expected, is also a great emigrant port. As many as 206,000 people, 57 00:05:10,840 --> 00:05:17,040 "for whose use half a million tons of shipping were required in 1851." 58 00:05:20,600 --> 00:05:24,040 In the 19th century, millions of immigrants 59 00:05:24,040 --> 00:05:31,200 passed through Liverpool, leaving a mark on the city that's instantly recognisable - the Liverpool accent. 60 00:05:33,600 --> 00:05:38,280 I must admit, as a Southerner, I've sometimes struggled to understand it, 61 00:05:38,280 --> 00:05:43,280 so I've come for a lesson in Scouse with local author Peter Grant. 62 00:05:46,360 --> 00:05:48,480 How very nice. Hiya, la'. 63 00:05:48,480 --> 00:05:50,240 What did you say? Hiya, la'. 64 00:05:50,240 --> 00:05:53,920 La' - lad. Ah. That's a good start, isn't it? 65 00:05:53,920 --> 00:05:56,920 That's a very good start. Where does this Liverpool accent come from? 66 00:05:56,920 --> 00:06:02,240 It comes from this almost allegorical big melting pot, a big pan of accents 67 00:06:02,240 --> 00:06:06,120 thrown in - Scottish, Irish, Welsh, Lancashire, Cheshire. 68 00:06:06,120 --> 00:06:08,240 Put a spoon in it, stir it all up and you've got 69 00:06:08,240 --> 00:06:13,320 little sparkles here and there, our little idiosyncratic little accent. 70 00:06:13,320 --> 00:06:15,960 I'm following a nineteenth-century guide. 71 00:06:15,960 --> 00:06:18,280 Would there have been a Scouse accent in those days? 72 00:06:18,280 --> 00:06:23,320 They would have spoken it, but it wouldn't have been recognised till about 1890. Is it a single accent? 73 00:06:23,320 --> 00:06:28,760 You can actually discover different types of Scouse accent - the north and the south. 74 00:06:28,760 --> 00:06:33,680 In Maghull, you can hear a certain type of accent that is different from the one in Allerton, 75 00:06:33,680 --> 00:06:37,200 and this is reflected especially in people like some of the comedians. 76 00:06:37,200 --> 00:06:39,360 You know, Stan Boardman, "the Germans". 77 00:06:39,360 --> 00:06:42,400 He's from the north side. You have the Beatles - Paul McCartney, 78 00:06:42,400 --> 00:06:45,560 very soft, sort of, "How you doing, Michael? How's things?" 79 00:06:45,560 --> 00:06:49,320 And then you've got Lennon, with his nasal sort of twang, the adenoids. 80 00:06:49,320 --> 00:06:51,960 George talking out of the side of his mouth, "Scrotty," 81 00:06:51,960 --> 00:06:53,760 and Ringo's "Thomas the Tank Engine". 82 00:06:53,760 --> 00:06:56,880 So all four, all from different parts of the city. 83 00:06:56,880 --> 00:07:00,840 You're a sort of Professor Higgins of Scouse. I like that. I like that. 84 00:07:00,840 --> 00:07:05,040 I think I'll bring out My "Faaa-ir" Lady, the sequel. 85 00:07:05,040 --> 00:07:11,560 So, why don't you test me out on some Scouse words or phrases, and I'll see if I can follow you. 86 00:07:11,560 --> 00:07:13,520 That fella over there, he's brickin' it. 87 00:07:13,520 --> 00:07:15,440 That fella over there's brickin' it. 88 00:07:15,440 --> 00:07:18,120 That's great. That sounded like George, yeah. Erm... 89 00:07:18,120 --> 00:07:20,280 That means, "That man over there is scared". 90 00:07:20,280 --> 00:07:23,640 Scared, yeah, petrified. And it could have other connotations, 91 00:07:23,640 --> 00:07:26,520 but, you know. 'Ey, la', you're doin' me 'ead in. 92 00:07:26,520 --> 00:07:28,440 'Ey, la', you're doin' me 'ead in. 93 00:07:28,440 --> 00:07:33,040 Er, that means, "Hey, boy..." PETER LAUGHS 94 00:07:33,040 --> 00:07:34,840 "..you're driving me crazy". 95 00:07:34,840 --> 00:07:37,400 That's good. It's like an American pop song, that. 96 00:07:37,400 --> 00:07:41,560 Have you heard the phrase "getting off a' Edge Hill"? Getting off the train at Edge Hill? 97 00:07:41,560 --> 00:07:46,280 Yeah. In Liverpool, if you're getting off at Edge Hill, it's the last stop before Lime Street, 98 00:07:46,280 --> 00:07:51,520 but Scousers tend to use it as a sort of analogy to the... let's say the sexual act 99 00:07:51,520 --> 00:07:57,000 and that you went out with a girl, or a girl went out with a bloke, and you nearly got there, you know? 100 00:07:57,000 --> 00:08:02,520 In the art of copping off, which is short for "copulation". So, "Did you cop off last night?" 101 00:08:02,520 --> 00:08:05,120 This is going out at 6:30! THEY LAUGH 102 00:08:05,960 --> 00:08:10,080 'But it seems Scouse isn't only an accent in Liverpool. 103 00:08:10,080 --> 00:08:11,760 'It's also a dish.' 104 00:08:11,760 --> 00:08:16,480 Thank you very much. If you like it that much, we do it in a tin as well. 105 00:08:16,480 --> 00:08:18,560 OK, great. Thank you. 106 00:08:18,560 --> 00:08:21,240 I feel really ignorant asking this, but what is scouse? 107 00:08:21,240 --> 00:08:25,520 It's very much a peasant, working-class-type dish. It comes from Norway. 108 00:08:25,520 --> 00:08:32,760 We adopted this Norwegian dish, which was a lovely big stew with beef, meat, fat, you name it. 109 00:08:32,760 --> 00:08:35,760 Throw all the vegetables in, stir it round. Very nutritious. 110 00:08:35,760 --> 00:08:38,120 And it stopped you getting scurvy. 111 00:08:38,120 --> 00:08:40,720 What do you say for "bon appetit" in Liverpool? 112 00:08:40,720 --> 00:08:43,640 Er, "'ave a good scran, la'". 113 00:08:43,640 --> 00:08:45,320 'Ave a good scran, la'. 114 00:08:49,280 --> 00:08:51,920 What do you think? I think it's very good. 115 00:08:51,920 --> 00:08:56,680 The beef has been shredded so that it just gives it a kind of real... 116 00:08:56,680 --> 00:08:59,080 kind of lovely stringy texture, doesn't it? Yeah. 117 00:08:59,080 --> 00:09:05,480 Yeah. But you can't beat a good, solid bowl of scouse. 118 00:09:05,480 --> 00:09:07,120 And as I say, it's got everything in it. 119 00:09:07,120 --> 00:09:10,400 So, it's a very, very good metaphor for the accent. 120 00:09:10,400 --> 00:09:12,040 Yes. Absolutely. 121 00:09:13,600 --> 00:09:17,680 So, Liverpool's signature dish comes from Norway. 122 00:09:17,680 --> 00:09:21,480 It seems everything in Liverpool originates somewhere else. 123 00:09:21,480 --> 00:09:24,880 Hello, guys. Nice to see you all. 124 00:09:24,880 --> 00:09:26,440 Are you all from Liverpool? Yeah. 125 00:09:26,440 --> 00:09:28,640 Do you like the city? Love the city. 126 00:09:28,640 --> 00:09:31,240 What do you love about it? The way it's so diverse. Yes. 127 00:09:31,240 --> 00:09:34,400 I like that. Everyone who's born in Liverpool is either 128 00:09:34,400 --> 00:09:38,280 of Irish, Scottish or Welsh descent, and they say that it's a combination. 129 00:09:38,280 --> 00:09:42,440 Like, our nan's Irish. It's lovely to see you so enthusiastic about your city. Thank you so much. 130 00:09:42,440 --> 00:09:45,040 All right. Thank you. Bye, now! 131 00:09:51,080 --> 00:09:53,600 What do you think of the city? The city's great. 132 00:09:53,600 --> 00:09:55,240 Great? You like the city? Oh, yeah. 133 00:09:55,240 --> 00:09:57,160 Is it getting better? Yeah, yeah. 134 00:09:57,160 --> 00:09:59,200 Lots of money coming in. 135 00:09:59,200 --> 00:10:00,480 Can't beat it. 136 00:10:07,520 --> 00:10:11,720 There was a lot of money coming in in Bradshaw's time too. 137 00:10:11,720 --> 00:10:15,480 Liverpool grew into the most important port for the cotton trade, 138 00:10:15,480 --> 00:10:19,400 with two million bales passing through the docks every year 139 00:10:22,120 --> 00:10:25,920 Across the Mersey, on the Wirral, there's another place Bradshaw 140 00:10:25,920 --> 00:10:27,960 talks about that I'm keen to see... 141 00:10:30,360 --> 00:10:31,960 ..Birkenhead Park. 142 00:10:36,240 --> 00:10:40,720 Bradshaw's a little bit iffy about Birkenhead Park. 143 00:10:40,720 --> 00:10:43,840 He says it's not one of the largest. 144 00:10:43,840 --> 00:10:46,960 But then he goes on and says but as a model, 145 00:10:46,960 --> 00:10:50,520 it's "owned to be one of the finest in England". 146 00:10:50,520 --> 00:10:54,120 And it did turn out to be a model, because it was designed by 147 00:10:54,120 --> 00:10:59,520 Sir Joseph Paxton and then an American, called FL Olmsted, came over. 148 00:10:59,520 --> 00:11:05,400 And he was inspired by this and designed Central Park in New York City. 149 00:11:05,400 --> 00:11:11,000 And with these beautiful lakes and with these rocks piled high and the trees raised up, 150 00:11:11,000 --> 00:11:14,200 it does have the feel of Central Park. 151 00:11:14,200 --> 00:11:17,280 And so you like to think of all those people leaving Liverpool, 152 00:11:17,280 --> 00:11:24,040 Birkenhead, going across to New York City and finding something very familiar at the other side. 153 00:11:29,400 --> 00:11:32,160 Morning. Morning. How are you? 154 00:11:35,360 --> 00:11:39,760 In the 1850s, up to a thousand ships a year were leaving Liverpool 155 00:11:39,760 --> 00:11:46,320 for America, many carrying Irish refugees fleeing the potato famine. 156 00:11:46,320 --> 00:11:51,880 The trains brought people from all over Britain to Liverpool to board the emigrant ships. 157 00:11:51,880 --> 00:11:55,200 In the late nineteenth century, one of the largest groups of refugees 158 00:11:55,200 --> 00:12:00,160 passing through Liverpool were Jews, like Mervyn Kingston's grandfather. 159 00:12:00,160 --> 00:12:03,560 How lovely to see you. Good morning. And you. Michael. How nice to see you, Michael. 160 00:12:03,560 --> 00:12:06,240 Great to see you. 161 00:12:06,240 --> 00:12:09,200 When did your family come to the United Kingdom? 162 00:12:09,200 --> 00:12:11,320 In the 1890s. 163 00:12:11,320 --> 00:12:16,000 They came sent from Riga, in Latvia. 164 00:12:16,000 --> 00:12:18,240 Now, why were they leaving Latvia? 165 00:12:18,240 --> 00:12:20,920 Probably because of the pogroms. 166 00:12:20,920 --> 00:12:28,080 They were chased all the time in Latvia and Lithuania, which was then part of Russia. 167 00:12:28,080 --> 00:12:30,840 They were being persecuted? Yes. 168 00:12:30,840 --> 00:12:34,640 As anti-Jewish riots took hold across Russia, 169 00:12:34,640 --> 00:12:39,200 over two million Jews fled Eastern Europe for America. 170 00:12:39,200 --> 00:12:44,840 Between the 1880s and 1920s, many of them travelled by boat to Hull, 171 00:12:44,840 --> 00:12:48,560 then caught the train to Liverpool on their way to New York. 172 00:12:48,560 --> 00:12:51,440 They came to Liverpool, the whole family. 173 00:12:51,440 --> 00:12:54,560 There were five of them, five children. 174 00:12:54,560 --> 00:12:58,440 And when they got to Liverpool, they settled in town, 175 00:12:58,440 --> 00:13:04,760 in what was called Little Moreton Street. It's been demolished since. 176 00:13:04,760 --> 00:13:09,240 And my grandfather got a job with Cunard. 177 00:13:09,240 --> 00:13:11,440 As they passed through Liverpool, 178 00:13:11,440 --> 00:13:16,640 many decided to stay, forming one tenth of the city's population. 179 00:13:16,640 --> 00:13:21,400 These days, the Jewish community has shrunk to less than one per cent. 180 00:13:21,400 --> 00:13:24,520 What would you say the Jewish community's influence on Liverpool has been? 181 00:13:24,520 --> 00:13:29,640 We've had seven Jewish lord mayors, many councillors. 182 00:13:29,640 --> 00:13:32,480 I was a Conservative councillor once. 183 00:13:32,480 --> 00:13:38,200 And we believe we give back as much as we take, if not more. 184 00:13:38,200 --> 00:13:41,320 A great tradition of philanthropy. We do our best. 185 00:13:41,320 --> 00:13:43,800 Mervyn, thank you so much. That's been really interesting. 186 00:13:43,800 --> 00:13:46,200 Thank you for sharing those memories. Very nice seeing you. 187 00:13:46,200 --> 00:13:49,840 Very nice to meet you. Bye-bye. Take care. Goodbye, now. Bye-bye. 188 00:13:53,720 --> 00:13:59,040 I'm now leaving Liverpool to continue my journey east to Manchester. 189 00:14:06,600 --> 00:14:10,480 My train will take me to Rainhill, along what is perhaps 190 00:14:10,480 --> 00:14:14,280 the most historic stretch of railway in the world. 191 00:14:16,240 --> 00:14:22,200 Not surprisingly, the Bradshaw guides were really keen on railway history. 192 00:14:22,200 --> 00:14:26,280 "The Liverpool and Manchester line was really the first on which was attempted the practical application 193 00:14:26,280 --> 00:14:31,360 "of locomotive power for the transit of goods and passengers. 194 00:14:31,360 --> 00:14:37,120 "And it is therefore prominently entitled to rank as the pioneer of those stupendous undertakings 195 00:14:37,120 --> 00:14:42,640 "which have not only given a new stimulus to the mechanical and architectural genius of the age, 196 00:14:42,640 --> 00:14:49,080 "but have enabled this country to take the lead of all others in these respects." 197 00:14:49,080 --> 00:14:54,360 The Victorians were immensely proud of their railways and immensely proud of their country. 198 00:14:56,800 --> 00:14:59,080 They had good reason to be. 199 00:14:59,080 --> 00:15:04,800 Before the railway, it took some 36 hours to cover the 30 miles by canal. 200 00:15:04,800 --> 00:15:08,680 This line cut journey times down to just two hours, 201 00:15:08,680 --> 00:15:12,960 a revolution for inter-city travel. 202 00:15:12,960 --> 00:15:17,800 As the line was being built, a highly innovative competition that would change the world 203 00:15:17,800 --> 00:15:20,920 took place about nine miles outside Liverpool. 204 00:15:20,920 --> 00:15:25,720 This is Rainhill, and I've come to this little place because railway history was made here. 205 00:15:28,600 --> 00:15:34,960 Christian Wolmar is an expert on the Rainhill Trials, the world's first steam-locomotive race. 206 00:15:34,960 --> 00:15:37,240 Are you Christian? How do you do? Hi. How lovely to see you. 207 00:15:37,240 --> 00:15:40,520 Thank you very much. Why were there Rainhill Trials? 208 00:15:40,520 --> 00:15:44,200 Well, essentially, it was a very clever public-relations exercise, 209 00:15:44,200 --> 00:15:47,240 because they were building the Liverpool and Manchester railway, 210 00:15:47,240 --> 00:15:50,320 they had just about decided that they wanted locomotives, 211 00:15:50,320 --> 00:15:53,280 rather than horses or stationary engines, 212 00:15:53,280 --> 00:15:58,840 so they decided to have a big launch 213 00:15:58,840 --> 00:16:04,720 of a PR exercise, announcing several months in advance that there were going to be these trials 214 00:16:04,720 --> 00:16:08,440 for a locomotive in October of 1829. 215 00:16:08,440 --> 00:16:12,800 Set the scene for me. Were there bands? Were there balloons? 216 00:16:12,800 --> 00:16:14,440 And was there hullabaloo? 217 00:16:14,440 --> 00:16:16,320 Oh, it was an absolutely huge event. 218 00:16:16,320 --> 00:16:20,280 There were people from Europe, from the United States. 219 00:16:20,280 --> 00:16:22,800 There was maybe 10,000,15,000... 220 00:16:22,800 --> 00:16:29,040 onlookers, but also all these foreign visitors who had come to see, 221 00:16:29,040 --> 00:16:33,360 you know, was this the invention that, er, 222 00:16:33,360 --> 00:16:37,920 was going to change the face of the world? 223 00:16:37,920 --> 00:16:39,960 And they were proved right. 224 00:16:39,960 --> 00:16:43,400 It was an absolutely astonishing... 225 00:16:43,400 --> 00:16:46,680 event in railway and, indeed, world history. 226 00:16:49,280 --> 00:16:52,680 George Stephenson, chief engineer for the Liverpool to Manchester line, 227 00:16:52,680 --> 00:16:55,760 entered his steam locomotive, the Rocket. 228 00:16:55,760 --> 00:17:02,280 It won hands down, achieving a top speed of 29 miles per hour. 229 00:17:02,280 --> 00:17:06,200 The Rocket became the prototype for all future locomotives. 230 00:17:06,200 --> 00:17:10,600 It was a one-iron-horse race, because the others blew up one by one. 231 00:17:10,600 --> 00:17:14,920 He got the £500 prize, probably worth around £20,000 232 00:17:14,920 --> 00:17:20,560 these days, and, crucially, the contract to build more locomotives for the Liverpool to Manchester line. 233 00:17:20,560 --> 00:17:23,440 You paint a really vivid scene. 234 00:17:23,440 --> 00:17:25,160 I wish I'd been there! 235 00:17:25,160 --> 00:17:27,640 Christian, my train is here. 236 00:17:27,640 --> 00:17:29,560 I'd better scoot. All right. Thank you so much. 237 00:17:29,560 --> 00:17:31,320 Cheers. Bye-bye. 238 00:17:34,880 --> 00:17:36,480 Phew! Just made it. 239 00:17:41,760 --> 00:17:48,320 Well, the party atmosphere of the opening of the Manchester to Liverpool railway line 240 00:17:48,320 --> 00:17:53,560 was pretty much spoilt when, at the opening ceremony, there was what Bradshaw called... 241 00:17:53,560 --> 00:17:58,160 "a lamentable accident to the Right Honourable William Huskisson". 242 00:17:58,160 --> 00:18:01,920 Huskisson was President of the Board of Trade. He was a member of the Cabinet. 243 00:18:01,920 --> 00:18:04,040 And at the opening ceremony, he was hit 244 00:18:04,040 --> 00:18:08,280 by Stephenson's Rocket and he was injured. 245 00:18:08,280 --> 00:18:09,960 They loaded him onto the train. 246 00:18:09,960 --> 00:18:12,920 They took him to Eccles, where I'm headed now. 247 00:18:12,920 --> 00:18:18,240 But he died, and so a cabinet minister became the first... 248 00:18:18,240 --> 00:18:21,440 railway fatality anywhere in the world. 249 00:18:23,400 --> 00:18:29,320 My last stop is Eccles, towards the other end of the Liverpool to Manchester line. 250 00:18:31,800 --> 00:18:36,120 This stretch of railway is full of engineering firsts, 251 00:18:36,120 --> 00:18:40,600 like the Sankey Viaduct, built by one George Stephenson. 252 00:18:53,720 --> 00:18:57,680 Well, I'm looking forward to Eccles, because Bradshaw says... 253 00:18:57,680 --> 00:18:59,400 "this little village is prettily situated 254 00:18:59,400 --> 00:19:01,720 "on the northern banks of the Irwell 255 00:19:01,720 --> 00:19:05,320 "and environed by some of the most picturesque rambles". 256 00:19:05,320 --> 00:19:06,800 It sounds charming. 257 00:19:09,560 --> 00:19:12,320 Which way for the picturesque rambles? 258 00:19:16,160 --> 00:19:20,000 Whoops! The 21st century caught up with Eccles. 259 00:19:22,240 --> 00:19:25,320 Up to the 1860s, Eccles was barely more than a few cottages. 260 00:19:25,320 --> 00:19:29,080 But when the world's first passenger railway was routed through it, 261 00:19:29,080 --> 00:19:31,320 the village's fate was sealed. 262 00:19:32,160 --> 00:19:36,320 It was soon swallowed up into the suburbs of Manchester. 263 00:19:36,320 --> 00:19:39,240 There are still some patches of greenery left, 264 00:19:39,240 --> 00:19:42,800 like the vast estate of Worsley Hall. 265 00:19:42,800 --> 00:19:46,720 The hall dates back to the 16th century, but was re-modelled 266 00:19:46,720 --> 00:19:50,880 in Victorian times and eventually turned into a pub. 267 00:19:50,880 --> 00:19:56,640 My Bradshaw's guide says it belonged to "the celebrated Duke of Bridgewater". 268 00:19:56,640 --> 00:20:02,320 So, the notice in the pub tells me that the old hall burnt down 269 00:20:02,320 --> 00:20:06,160 and its historic owner had a great interest in engineering. 270 00:20:06,160 --> 00:20:10,200 So, tomorrow, I shall explore what was for Bradshaw 271 00:20:10,200 --> 00:20:14,720 a passion almost as great as railways, that is to say canals. 272 00:20:22,520 --> 00:20:25,800 Bradshaw started his life mapping Britain's canals, 273 00:20:25,800 --> 00:20:33,360 before he moved on to railways, and so Worsley was of great interest to him as the birthplace of the canal. 274 00:20:35,960 --> 00:20:40,360 Bradshaw's guide is interested in all great feats of construction. 275 00:20:40,360 --> 00:20:45,640 It says of this spot, "The late Earl of Ellesmere inherited the vast estates of the celebrated 276 00:20:45,640 --> 00:20:52,360 "Duke of Bridgewater, for whom Brindley, the engineer, first made the subterranean canals here. 277 00:20:52,360 --> 00:20:57,440 "They supply the coal mines below, at a depth of 180 feet, 278 00:20:57,440 --> 00:21:00,800 "and wind in and out for about 18 miles." 279 00:21:01,880 --> 00:21:08,880 That prodigious feat of engineering must have inspired the railway builders of later years, and, 280 00:21:08,880 --> 00:21:13,680 ironically, the railways were then to put the canals out of business. 281 00:21:16,920 --> 00:21:19,360 These underground waterways were part of 282 00:21:19,360 --> 00:21:22,600 the Bridgewater canal system, arguably the first in Britain. 283 00:21:22,600 --> 00:21:25,960 They were built to carry coal directly from the Duke's mines 284 00:21:25,960 --> 00:21:28,280 at Worsley without going to the expense of 285 00:21:28,280 --> 00:21:29,800 bringing it to the surface. 286 00:21:31,880 --> 00:21:34,680 This pool is browny-orange, 287 00:21:34,680 --> 00:21:39,960 telling us that this water still comes up from the mine. 288 00:21:39,960 --> 00:21:46,440 You can't see much now, but from 1761, barges laden with coal 289 00:21:46,440 --> 00:21:47,800 would have emerged from there 290 00:21:47,800 --> 00:21:52,840 and this pool would have been a hive of early industrial activity. 291 00:22:02,200 --> 00:22:08,000 Clearly, what was the village of Eccles has changed a lot since Bradshaw's guide. 292 00:22:08,000 --> 00:22:13,960 But the guide also notes that Eccles is celebrated for its cakes, and that hasn't changed at all. 293 00:22:15,640 --> 00:22:21,400 Ian Edmondson is the production director of Lancashire Eccles Cakes. 294 00:22:21,400 --> 00:22:24,120 How long has your family been involved in making Eccles cakes? 295 00:22:24,120 --> 00:22:28,920 I suppose it started in the 1920s, when my grandad went round the local 296 00:22:28,920 --> 00:22:33,400 bakers' shops buying cakes and then he'd put them on his horse-drawn cart 297 00:22:33,400 --> 00:22:37,160 and he'd sell them at the local shops on the corners of the streets of Manchester. 298 00:22:37,160 --> 00:22:40,400 And then the family decided it would be better if they actually made the cakes, 299 00:22:40,400 --> 00:22:43,760 so they set a bakery up making the cakes. Can we see how they're made? 300 00:22:43,760 --> 00:22:47,440 Of course, yes. First, I'll show you the ingredients. 301 00:22:47,440 --> 00:22:50,760 As you see here, this is the most important ingredient in an Eccles cake - 302 00:22:50,760 --> 00:22:52,760 a really, really good-quality currant. 303 00:22:52,760 --> 00:22:58,040 These are Vostizza and they're from a place in Aeghion, in Greece. 304 00:22:58,040 --> 00:23:01,480 You'll see it says "Protected designation of origin." 305 00:23:01,480 --> 00:23:06,840 Now, this is just like Champagne, where they don't allow another grape to come out of that area. 306 00:23:06,840 --> 00:23:08,400 Yes. This is the same with here. 307 00:23:08,400 --> 00:23:10,320 A guarantee of quality. Yes, it is. 308 00:23:10,320 --> 00:23:12,080 And then we've got sugar... 309 00:23:12,080 --> 00:23:14,960 Yeah, just simple ingredients. That's all that's in the product. 310 00:23:14,960 --> 00:23:18,160 It's sugar, more currants, brown sugar... 311 00:23:18,160 --> 00:23:20,080 Brown sugar. ..a bit of salt... 312 00:23:20,080 --> 00:23:22,120 Salt. ..and lots of butter. 313 00:23:25,760 --> 00:23:29,360 Wow! It's a whole different world, isn't it? 314 00:23:29,360 --> 00:23:31,360 I know, it's absolutely fantastic, isn't it? 315 00:23:31,360 --> 00:23:35,920 What would it have been like here, I don't know, 50, 60 years ago? 316 00:23:35,920 --> 00:23:38,600 The way they'd have made the cakes 60-odd years ago would have been 317 00:23:38,600 --> 00:23:42,720 on a big, round table, a big pile of currants in the middle. 318 00:23:42,720 --> 00:23:44,240 Everyone gets a little bit of pastry, 319 00:23:44,240 --> 00:23:46,800 puts it in and then starts folding it into a little dolly bag 320 00:23:46,800 --> 00:23:50,040 and then knocking it in rings and then putting them on trays. 321 00:23:50,040 --> 00:23:52,320 So, quite inefficient, compared to how we make them now. 322 00:23:52,320 --> 00:23:55,720 Yeah, because now, it's all coming down the process line. 323 00:23:55,720 --> 00:23:59,680 Hi! Hi. That looks quite complicated. 324 00:23:59,680 --> 00:24:01,800 No, it's easy, really. 325 00:24:01,800 --> 00:24:04,240 Just put all the four corners to the middle... 326 00:24:04,240 --> 00:24:05,520 Yeah. ..and then the sides. 327 00:24:05,520 --> 00:24:09,640 OK. If you'd like to have a go, put these gloves on. Yeah, sure. 328 00:24:12,680 --> 00:24:18,960 I wish you luck, anyway. Yeah! Surgeon's hands! So, four corners... 329 00:24:20,400 --> 00:24:26,000 Aaah! ..into the middle. Yeah. And then fold the side bits in as... 330 00:24:26,000 --> 00:24:29,840 Oh, Lord. Oh, that's a bit of a mess, isn't it? Yeah. 331 00:24:29,840 --> 00:24:31,360 And once they come off the line there, 332 00:24:31,360 --> 00:24:37,640 they get baked in these ovens, taken out and taken into the packing room for cooling, then packing. 333 00:24:37,640 --> 00:24:41,720 This is really where you get the strong smell of the Eccles cake, isn't it? 334 00:24:41,720 --> 00:24:47,160 Yeah, you get that fantastic smell. It's all the flavours coming together of the ingredients. 335 00:24:47,160 --> 00:24:49,120 How many Eccles cakes are you producing? 336 00:24:49,120 --> 00:24:52,520 We're producing about 150,000 Eccles cakes a day. 337 00:24:52,520 --> 00:24:57,000 In fact, it's probably in the top six most popular cakes. 338 00:24:57,000 --> 00:25:00,520 That's about, er, 40 million a year, or something. 339 00:25:00,520 --> 00:25:03,280 Yes! I'll take your word for that. 340 00:25:03,280 --> 00:25:06,960 Would you like to try a real Lancashire Eccles cake? I thought you'd never ask. Yes, please. 341 00:25:10,680 --> 00:25:12,360 Lovely aroma. 342 00:25:12,360 --> 00:25:14,360 Beautifully folded, by the way. 343 00:25:14,360 --> 00:25:16,520 Is it one of yours? 344 00:25:16,520 --> 00:25:18,000 No! 345 00:25:22,280 --> 00:25:24,960 Mmm, it's... 346 00:25:24,960 --> 00:25:27,160 It's wonderful. 347 00:25:27,160 --> 00:25:30,160 It's wicked. It's, erm... 348 00:25:30,160 --> 00:25:33,840 Look at the lovely row of currants inside. 349 00:25:33,840 --> 00:25:36,240 Can you taste the butter and the sugar? 350 00:25:36,240 --> 00:25:39,720 Are you kidding? Of course I can! Absolutely buttery and sugary. 351 00:25:39,720 --> 00:25:42,240 I'm really pleased to have looked into this very historic cake. 352 00:25:42,240 --> 00:25:44,000 Centuries of history in this cake. 353 00:25:44,000 --> 00:25:46,760 Yeah, and the fantastic thing about it is that it's the only Eccles cake 354 00:25:46,760 --> 00:25:50,040 you'll get in a supermarket that's made within five miles of Eccles. 355 00:25:50,040 --> 00:25:52,160 The genuine article. Of course, yes. 356 00:25:54,240 --> 00:25:58,000 The delicious pastries became so popular, they were transported to 357 00:25:58,000 --> 00:26:02,920 markets up and down the country by train and sold on station platforms. 358 00:26:02,920 --> 00:26:06,360 They were even exported to America and the West Indies 359 00:26:06,360 --> 00:26:10,520 and were laced with brandy to help them last the journey. 360 00:26:10,520 --> 00:26:15,880 But that method of preservation got the cakes into trouble. 361 00:26:18,600 --> 00:26:22,560 The apparently innocuous Eccles cake has been 362 00:26:22,560 --> 00:26:29,240 associated with merrymaking, so much so that at one time, Cromwell banned the Eccles cake. 363 00:26:29,240 --> 00:26:34,360 And it got into trouble again in the 19th century, because they used to put brandy in the cakes, 364 00:26:34,360 --> 00:26:36,800 and it's thought that one railway driver 365 00:26:36,800 --> 00:26:40,800 got so drunk on eating Eccles cakes that he fell off his footplate. 366 00:26:40,800 --> 00:26:45,120 And thereafter, the sale of liquor and the sale of Eccles cakes 367 00:26:45,120 --> 00:26:49,520 was banned at all the stations around Eccles. 368 00:26:53,280 --> 00:26:58,880 It wasn't only goods like the Eccles cake that the railways transported around the world. 369 00:27:02,760 --> 00:27:06,920 Before Britain had railways, the average Briton was born, lived 370 00:27:06,920 --> 00:27:10,560 and died within a 15-mile radius of the same spot. 371 00:27:10,560 --> 00:27:15,840 The railways changed people's lives, and George Bradshaw saw it happening. 372 00:27:15,840 --> 00:27:21,440 In a single lifetime, he saw how the railways changed industrialisation, 373 00:27:21,440 --> 00:27:23,800 and how they changed people's lives, 374 00:27:23,800 --> 00:27:28,720 and how they brought about the exponential growth of cities like Manchester and Liverpool. 375 00:27:28,720 --> 00:27:35,200 And Bradshaw was proud of the technology and proud that it was British. 376 00:27:38,440 --> 00:27:44,280 Tomorrow, I'll be discovering how Manchester came to be known as Cottonopolis. 377 00:27:44,280 --> 00:27:49,000 By the end of the century, the Indians were getting Indian designs 378 00:27:49,000 --> 00:27:54,040 sent back from Manchester to India that maybe came from cotton that they'd grown originally. 379 00:27:54,040 --> 00:27:58,120 It was crazy. I'll be finding out about Bradshaw the man 380 00:27:58,120 --> 00:28:01,560 and how he helped to unify time... 381 00:28:01,560 --> 00:28:06,240 Each provincial city, like Birmingham, Manchester and so on, had their own time. 382 00:28:06,240 --> 00:28:10,680 And of course, this was liable to create great confusion with railway timetables. 383 00:28:10,680 --> 00:28:14,920 ..and how the railways brought fish and chips to British plates. 384 00:28:14,920 --> 00:28:17,200 Oh, thank you very much! Lovely. 385 00:28:17,200 --> 00:28:20,840 It was the onset of the railways that allowed all this population, 386 00:28:20,840 --> 00:28:24,880 this inland population, to, for the first time, experience sea fish. 387 00:28:45,400 --> 00:28:48,440 Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd 388 00:28:48,440 --> 00:28:51,480 E-mail subtitling@bbc.co.uk