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In 1840, one man transformed
travel in Britain.

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His name was George Bradshaw,

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and his railway guides inspired the
Victorians to take to the tracks.

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Stop by stop, he told them
where to travel, what to see

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and where to stay.

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Now, 170 years later, I'm making
four long journeys across the length
and breadth of the country

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to see what remains
of Bradshaw's Britain.

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Steered by Bradshaw's,
my 150-year-old guide

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to railway travel in Britain,

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I'm headed north again
to the Borders.

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Today I'll be finding out about
the wild Border clans of Carlisle.

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The stone is
the Archbishop of Glasgow's
curse on all these families,

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because we got up to wicked deeds.

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I'll be crashing a wedding.

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Does Gretna Green have a special
feeling for you? It does now.

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It definitely does.
After today it will, yes.

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And I'll be visiting
a top-secret munitions factory.

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What was this thing called
devil's porridge?

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Devil's porridge was a mixture
of cordite and explosive, mainly
mixed by hand by women at the time.

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All this week, I've been
heading north from Preston,

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up the west of England.

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I'm now travelling into
the once-lawless frontier country

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around Carlisle,

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before crossing into Scotland
and moving on to Kirkcaldy.

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Today I'll stop in Carlisle,

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then carry on to Gretna Green,

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before ending my journey in Glasgow.

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I often visit Scotland,
frequently by air,

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but even when I go by rail,
I rush through the Borders.

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I never think of stopping there.

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Today I'll be intrigued just
to linger and see what's there.

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When the first trains arrived
in 1847,

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passengers had
to change at Carlisle,

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making it one of
the busiest stations in the country.

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This magnificent station,
with its Gothic arches

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and with the plaques
from locomotives

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and different railway lines,

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it's a Victorian wonder
and a railway museum

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and gateway to Scotland.

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In Carlisle, even the public
buildings are built like castles,

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suggesting that this has
long been a warlike place

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with fearsome peoples.

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For over 700 years,
the English and the Scots

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battled for control
of Carlisle and its castle.

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It wasn't until 1745 that the last
Scottish uprising was put down.

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Do you know why the buildings in
Carlisle are like castles?

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Because it was needed to be a defence
from the Picts and the Scots,
wouldn't they?

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The Picts and the Scots.

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There were vicious people
in those days. Vicious? Very vicious.

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Battling it out. Yeah, battling
it out, really, oooh, terrible.

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I've come to Carlisle to find out
more about its troubled history

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from artist Gordon Young.

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Morning, Gordon! Good morning.

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Do you know, I'm delighted
to be in Carlisle.

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I had no idea
it was such a beautiful city.

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I think it's a really bonny city.

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It's been fought over.

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It's been fought over
time and time again.

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Both countries have laid
good claim to it.

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Scottish kings crowned in Carlisle.

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An English parliament's
been in Carlisle.

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Strategically, it had
importance and significance.

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Loyal to the English crown, was it?
No, loyal to whatever army's in it
that particular time.

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But there was another group
that was neither English nor Scots.

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I hadn't heard of the Reivers
living along the border

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until I read about them
in my Bradshaw's guide.

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Gordon is one of their descendants.

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In 2001, Gordon was commissioned
to make this stone sculpture

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as a tribute to his ancestors,
a forgotten people.

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Who were the Border Reivers?

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They were the families that lived
either side of what we now
acknowledge as the border.

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The border, centuries ago,
wasn't a single strip.

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It was within 70 miles of
what we currently know.

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400 years ago,

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the frontier between the English
and the Scots shifted constantly,

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as they vied for territory.

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The Reivers operated within
that no-man's-land

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and took full advantage
of its lawless state.

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What kind of people were they?

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Well, it's not good
agricultural land.

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It was hard land with hard people,

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and they were pillaging,
raping, robbing, thieving,

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the Reivers were bereaving

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and blackmailing and stealing
and, of course,

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to enforce English law
would be a war.

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To enforce Scottish law
would be a war,

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because where's the border?

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Therefore this banditry
was in the area.

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This was our Border heritage,
which was rough, tumble and bloody.

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Neither Scottish nor English,

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each Reiver swore allegiance
only to his clan.

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So these were the families
and the family names

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from specific valleys,
towns, villages,

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whether it's Irvine, Carmichael,
Johnston, Nixon, Dixon,

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Trotter, Blackadder.

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Here's your name, Young.

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Yeah. There's about 90-odd names

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that are recognised as the families
of the Borders, the Reivers.

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There are also some
very famous descendants,

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like Richard Nixon
and Neil Armstrong.

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And then this stone.
What's that about?

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The stone is
the Archbishop of Glasgow's
curse on all these families,

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because we got up to wicked deeds.

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The Archbishop wrote
his 1,000-word curse in 1525,

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hoping that disease and misfortune
could avenge the Reivers' crimes.

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As somebody with a good dialect would
say, it curses them standand and
gangand and sittand and rydand.

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It curses cabbages,
it curses their heads.

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This is really
a pretty comprehensive curse.

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Oh, there's pages of it.
This is a fragment.

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That's a fragment.

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It goes on and on and on.
He was very thorough.

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There wasn't many things where
he wasn't giving this great curse,

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and it is an incredible piece of,
I think, European literature,

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let alone Scottish
or northern British.

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Bradshaw refers to the Reiver clans
by their ancient name,

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the Moss-troopers,

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who lived in a wild landscape
of rugged, rocky mountains

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thrown together
with beautiful valleys.

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Many Reiver families
still live here,

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and through Gordon's
Reiver grapevine,

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I've found out about
a party taking place
in the village of Hallbankgate.

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A few centuries ago,
this would have been
the very heart of Reiver territory.

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I've come to sample
Borders hospitality,

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and to find out how
the fearsome Moss-troopers sounded

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when they were in party mood.

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FOLK MUSIC

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Good Lord, an amazing display
of giant vegetables.

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Hello! Hi. How are you doing?
OK, thank you.

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So what - obviously a competition?

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Bizarrely, the locals are engaged
in a gentle vegetable contest.

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Not the behaviour I associate
with bandits and robbers.

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But these are amazing! Do you weigh
them or do you measure them or...

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No, we measure them.
What they do, they measure
them from this point here.

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It has to be no longer
than six inches,

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and it has got to be as thick
as you can get them.

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These are the winners. Mr Starkey
is the winner. Mr Starkey.

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Mr Forster. That's Mr Forster there.

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He was second.
Congratulations to you. Thank you.

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What an amazing effort! Have you
been growing them for a long time?

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Trying to, yeah. Ah, right!

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20 or 30 years.

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I'm here for a Reiver song.
The Reivers' song?

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Do you know anything about that?
They're going to be singing
very shortly.

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The Reivers' songs were first
made popular by Sir Walter Scott,

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himself from Reiver stock.

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Thank you very much. Cheers.

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He travelled the Borders
collecting battle songs and ballads.

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Good evening! Hello.
Hi, how are you all?

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So you're going to do us some
Reiver music this evening?

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We're going to play a ballad
about the Reivers.

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Are you in the group,
are you fearsome Border Reivers?

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I'm married to a Reiver.
You're married to a Reiver? I am.

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In fact, he's out reiving
at this very minute.

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What's the song called? The song's
called Lock the Door, Lariston.

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and it's about a feud between
two of the reiving families.

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I look forward to it. Thank you.

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For such a fearsome people,
they had very, very jolly music.

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I think the Reivers
have got an unfair reputation.

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They were clearly fun lovers.

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Although some
of the Reiver traditions
still seem pretty scary to me.

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I've been asked to ask you to dance.

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No, I'm not going to dance.
He won't dance with me.

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I heard you were a very good dancer.

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No, you're wrong, you're wrong.

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Bravo!

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After a very good party,
it's time for a new day,

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and a new country.
Crossing the border into Scotland.

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Despite the slightly bleary head,

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I'm glad I took time
to stop in Carlisle.

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So farewell, Carlisle. The Borders
are interesting, beautiful and fun.

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But now it's time to move on.

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Next stop Gretna Green,

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and Bradshaw's guide
puts it finger on

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why most of us have heard
of that Scottish town.

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"It's been
for more than 80 years a place
of the celebration of marriages

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"of fugitive lovers from England."

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Well, Gretna Green has gone on
being celebrated for its weddings

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for another 150 years too.

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The marriage laws in Scotland

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have always been more liberal
than those in England.

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When the railways
arrived in Gretna in 1848,

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the steady stream of young lovers
crossing the border to wed
turned into a flood.

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Today marriage is big business here.

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This is really
an extraordinary sight.

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This is a tourist haven.
This is the Las Vegas of Scotland.

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This is a reminder that Gretna Green
is a town built on love.

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Alasdair? How do you do?
Hello, I'm Michael.

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Alasdair Houston's family

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have been farmers and blacksmiths
in the area for generations.

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What's it got to do
with blacksmiths?

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Well, it's not so much
blacksmith per se.

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The blacksmith, the fisherman,
the weaver - a number of trades

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could have conducted
a quickie wedding in Gretna Green,

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but it's
location, location, location,

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and the blacksmith's workshop
was on this important crossroads,

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so this rush of eloping couples
who would be trying to escape
from the English law,

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they would get here
and this was the first building.

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It quickly developed
into the anvil becoming such
a strong symbol of weddings,

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because... Forging on the anvil.

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Just so. I mean, as the blacksmith
would use the anvil and heat
the joint to join metals together,

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so it was said that he would join
lives together in marriage.

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But just as
the train loads of lovers

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began to arrive here 160 years ago,

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the law changed.

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My Bradshaw's Guide, which was
probably written in the 1860s,

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says that Parliament has
recently passed a law

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which requires residency in Scotland
before you can get married,

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and he says, "The blacksmith
will now find his occupation gone."

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That would be referring
to an 1856 act

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by the then Lord Chancellor,
Lord Brougham,

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and it was called
the "cooling off" act,

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because what it said is that one
of the parties to the marriage

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had to spend 21 days in Scotland
before they could have
a legal ceremony.

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Still the same ceremony,
simple declaration.

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So that cooling off act was expected

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to completely stop
this flow of newlyweds.

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Now, what, in fact, happened, is it
sprung up all sort of guesthouses, an
early form of B&Bs, if you like.

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My grandparents remember
the farm workers pitchforking
hay and straw out of sheds,

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and, "Ow! Ow!" There'd be somebody
lying out rough in the area,

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being woken up in the morning.

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In Scotland, unlike in England,

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you can marry at 16
without parental permission,

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and these days you don't even have
to be resident for three weeks.

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So Gretna is still the most
popular place for quickie weddings.

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Bradshaw's predicted, 150 years ago,

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that the blacksmith
was going to be extinct,

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but you're still
banging out the marriages.

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Yeah, I mean Gretna Green is still
an important wedding destination,

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happily for the area
and for the whole region

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because of this ripple effect,
so Bradshaw, I'm happy to say,
was wrong.

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# Love is in the air. #
Are you going to sing? Yes.

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Today over 5,000 couples a year
get married in Gretna Green.

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That's one in six
of all weddings in Scotland.

234
00:15:17,520 --> 00:15:20,640
I guess you're here to play
for a wedding, are you?

235
00:15:20,640 --> 00:15:23,160
Er, I've got three weddings
on today, yes. Aye.

236
00:15:23,160 --> 00:15:26,440
And is that fairly typical? Do you
do three weddings a day often?

237
00:15:26,440 --> 00:15:29,560
Three weddings very often.
Aye, sometimes four, five, six.

238
00:15:29,560 --> 00:15:33,040
Sometimes seven. Very busy. It's
a kind of industry here, isn't it?

239
00:15:33,040 --> 00:15:34,200
Oh, yes, very much so.

240
00:15:34,200 --> 00:15:36,360
Why do they go to Gretna Green?

241
00:15:36,360 --> 00:15:39,280
Oh, this is the romantic
capital of the world.

242
00:15:39,280 --> 00:15:41,280
Without a doubt.

243
00:15:41,280 --> 00:15:44,000
BAGPIPES PLAY: "Scotland The Brave"

244
00:15:44,000 --> 00:15:45,520
Lots of excitement, now

245
00:15:45,520 --> 00:15:48,960
and people in their wedding best
are pouring out.

246
00:15:48,960 --> 00:15:52,480
It's very, very exciting
and it's very, very British.

247
00:15:52,480 --> 00:15:54,960
I see the bridesmaids
in their lovely dresses.

248
00:15:54,960 --> 00:15:56,320
Shivering.

249
00:16:07,920 --> 00:16:10,760
You're a very lucky man indeed.
Thank you very much.

250
00:16:10,760 --> 00:16:13,200
May I ask you,
why did you choose Gretna Green?

251
00:16:13,200 --> 00:16:18,920
Um, well, we wanted to elope,
but my family found out about it
and they ended up coming with us.

252
00:16:18,920 --> 00:16:20,600
You're English? Yes. Yes.

253
00:16:20,600 --> 00:16:23,200
And so it was originally
going to be an elopement?

254
00:16:23,200 --> 00:16:24,760
Yes, yes. How very romantic!

255
00:16:24,760 --> 00:16:27,040
I didn't know that stuff
happened any more!

256
00:16:27,040 --> 00:16:30,560
Does Gretna Green have
a special feeling for you?

257
00:16:30,560 --> 00:16:34,280
It does now. It definitely does.
After today it will, yes. Yes.

258
00:16:34,280 --> 00:16:36,760
Have the most fantastic marriage.
Thank you.

259
00:16:36,760 --> 00:16:39,080
It started beautifully.
Thank you. Bye-bye.

260
00:16:44,560 --> 00:16:48,200
Gretna Green is nationally famous,
internationally famous,

261
00:16:48,200 --> 00:16:49,400
for its weddings.

262
00:16:49,400 --> 00:16:51,840
But there's another
part of this town

263
00:16:51,840 --> 00:16:54,320
which played
a really significant role

264
00:16:54,320 --> 00:16:56,160
in Britain's military history,

265
00:16:56,160 --> 00:16:59,320
and which, even today, is so secret

266
00:16:59,320 --> 00:17:04,400
that very few people have had the
peep inside that I'm about to get.

267
00:17:07,000 --> 00:17:10,320
This strange landscape
of bunkers and hills

268
00:17:10,320 --> 00:17:14,920
was built to handle
the explosives made and stored here.

269
00:17:17,560 --> 00:17:20,480
The site was once key
to Britain's survival,

270
00:17:20,480 --> 00:17:24,440
although these days it's mainly
a Ministry of Defence depot

271
00:17:24,440 --> 00:17:27,320
managed by David Watt.

272
00:17:27,320 --> 00:17:31,000
Why was this enormous site
brought into existence?

273
00:17:31,000 --> 00:17:34,120
During the Battle of Loos in 1915,

274
00:17:34,120 --> 00:17:35,920
during the First World War,

275
00:17:35,920 --> 00:17:38,640
the British army found itself
very short of shells.

276
00:17:38,640 --> 00:17:41,520
In fact, we almost lost the war
due to the lack of shells,

277
00:17:41,520 --> 00:17:46,800
so this huge ammunition manufacturing
facility was built in 1916

278
00:17:46,800 --> 00:17:49,920
and in fact, at one time there
was 30,000 people worked here,

279
00:17:49,920 --> 00:17:53,040
almost all of them women,
making and packing shells,

280
00:17:53,040 --> 00:17:55,560
in order to support
the British Army offensive.

281
00:17:55,560 --> 00:18:00,840
The factory was built at Gretna
because it was remote.

282
00:18:00,840 --> 00:18:04,120
But also, it had a fast rail link

283
00:18:04,120 --> 00:18:06,720
to deliver shells and bombs
to the Western Front.

284
00:18:06,720 --> 00:18:13,160
Another internal railway carried
the munitions around the vast site.

285
00:18:13,160 --> 00:18:16,880
How much track do you have
through the site? About 20 miles.

286
00:18:16,880 --> 00:18:18,960
It's quite an extensive facility

287
00:18:18,960 --> 00:18:21,960
and this site here is
mainly served by narrow-gauge rail.

288
00:18:23,920 --> 00:18:26,680
At that time,
there wasn't any motorways

289
00:18:26,680 --> 00:18:32,080
and one of the main methods of
moving heavy objects was by rail,
and ammunition is very heavy.

290
00:18:32,080 --> 00:18:36,520
The women toiled around the clock,
mixing devil's porridge,

291
00:18:36,520 --> 00:18:39,880
a lethal paste
of nitroglycerine and cotton.

292
00:18:39,880 --> 00:18:45,320
At its peak,
the factory produced 800 tonnes
of the deadly stuff every week.

293
00:18:45,320 --> 00:18:48,000
What was this thing
called devil's porridge?

294
00:18:48,000 --> 00:18:50,680
It was a mixture
of cordite and explosive,

295
00:18:50,680 --> 00:18:53,560
mainly mixed by hand
by women at the time.

296
00:18:53,560 --> 00:18:56,880
Very dangerous mixture.
Some of the chemicals in it are such

297
00:18:56,880 --> 00:19:01,560
that their teeth were discoloured,
their hair turned orange.

298
00:19:01,560 --> 00:19:03,600
It was not a nice substance at all.

299
00:19:03,600 --> 00:19:06,320
And they were literally
mixing it by hand?

300
00:19:06,320 --> 00:19:08,680
They were literally
mixing it by hand, yes.

301
00:19:08,680 --> 00:19:11,200
And this devil's porridge
was used in what?

302
00:19:11,200 --> 00:19:12,560
The filling of shells.

303
00:19:12,560 --> 00:19:17,040
More explosives were produced here
than anywhere else in Britain.

304
00:19:17,040 --> 00:19:21,120
It involved extremely
dangerous work.

305
00:19:22,840 --> 00:19:24,080
So what was that tunnel?

306
00:19:24,080 --> 00:19:27,280
The tunnel there was the escape
tunnel between the traverses.

307
00:19:27,280 --> 00:19:31,440
The whole idea of this area here is
to protect the people who work here

308
00:19:31,440 --> 00:19:33,120
and to protect the explosives.

309
00:19:33,120 --> 00:19:36,520
If you can imagine a town full
of explosives, the idea being,

310
00:19:36,520 --> 00:19:39,680
if that blew, the blast goes up
the way and not across the way.

311
00:19:39,680 --> 00:19:43,000
And then if anything goes wrong,
you escape through the tunnel.

312
00:19:43,000 --> 00:19:46,200
Through the tunnel and hopefully
you'll be safe through there.

313
00:19:50,200 --> 00:19:52,280
After leaving the MOD site,

314
00:19:52,280 --> 00:19:55,200
I'm catching my next train
from Lockerbie,

315
00:19:55,200 --> 00:19:58,040
a name remembered for tragedy.

316
00:20:01,000 --> 00:20:03,720
Lockerbie is sadly known
to all of us

317
00:20:03,720 --> 00:20:08,440
because of the terrorist outrage
against Pan Am 103 in 1988,

318
00:20:08,440 --> 00:20:10,800
but a few miles down the track,

319
00:20:10,800 --> 00:20:16,280
in 1915 there occurred
Britain's worst ever rail disaster.

320
00:20:16,280 --> 00:20:19,760
A troop train carrying soldiers
bound for Gallipoli

321
00:20:19,760 --> 00:20:24,120
collided with a local train that
in turn was hit by the night sleeper

322
00:20:24,120 --> 00:20:25,920
coming in the other direction,

323
00:20:25,920 --> 00:20:28,840
and an enormous ball of fire
engulfed the trains

324
00:20:28,840 --> 00:20:31,800
and freight trains
on either side of the line.

325
00:20:31,800 --> 00:20:34,600
227 people were killed,

326
00:20:34,600 --> 00:20:38,400
a figure never matched
in railway history since.

327
00:20:38,400 --> 00:20:42,320
The ball of fire
engulfed three trains

328
00:20:42,320 --> 00:20:44,920
and took 23 hours to extinguish.

329
00:20:44,920 --> 00:20:47,000
Because of wartime censorship,

330
00:20:47,000 --> 00:20:49,920
the terrible disaster went
unreported at the time.

331
00:20:52,000 --> 00:20:55,040
From then on, gas lighting
on trains was banned.

332
00:20:57,280 --> 00:21:00,960
So one important reform resulted
from the dreadful death toll.

333
00:21:05,480 --> 00:21:07,560
I'm now catching
my last train of the day

334
00:21:07,560 --> 00:21:11,680
to Scotland's largest city, Glasgow.

335
00:21:11,680 --> 00:21:15,000
Hello, there. Can I have
a cup of coffee, please?

336
00:21:15,000 --> 00:21:17,120
Is it milk and sugar for you?

337
00:21:17,120 --> 00:21:19,920
Er, just milk, please.

338
00:21:19,920 --> 00:21:22,240
So what's better,
Glasgow or Edinburgh?

339
00:21:22,240 --> 00:21:24,760
Ah, well, I've got to say Glasgow,
haven't I?

340
00:21:24,760 --> 00:21:28,560
You ask anybody else on the train,
and they'll say Edinburgh.

341
00:21:28,560 --> 00:21:30,480
And what shall I eat in Glasgow?

342
00:21:31,520 --> 00:21:33,720
Fish and chips. Fish and chips!

343
00:21:36,560 --> 00:21:40,040
'Ladies and gentlemen,
now arriving at Central Station.

344
00:21:40,040 --> 00:21:43,400
'Make sure you have all your
belongings and luggage with you.'

345
00:21:43,400 --> 00:21:45,880
Bradshaw talks about
the famous rivalry

346
00:21:45,880 --> 00:21:47,600
between Glasgow and Edinburgh.

347
00:21:47,600 --> 00:21:50,160
He says,

348
00:21:50,160 --> 00:21:53,480
"The ancient city of Glasgow is
one of the most splendid in Europe

349
00:21:53,480 --> 00:21:58,040
"and is not surpassed
for beauty of architecture
in its public and private buildings,

350
00:21:58,040 --> 00:22:02,760
"the length, breadth and elegance of
its streets, squares and crescents,

351
00:22:02,760 --> 00:22:05,120
even by Edinburgh itself."

352
00:22:05,120 --> 00:22:08,240
BAGPIPE MUSIC

353
00:22:10,760 --> 00:22:12,520
Feel the buzz of the city.

354
00:22:12,520 --> 00:22:16,480
After all those lakes and hills
and sheep and cows,

355
00:22:16,480 --> 00:22:19,600
it's good to feel
the throb of urban life again.

356
00:22:19,600 --> 00:22:21,680
A city boy like me is never happy

357
00:22:21,680 --> 00:22:24,880
unless I've got the whiff
of carbon monoxide in my nostrils.

358
00:22:26,560 --> 00:22:31,440
Today Scotland's two great cities
still jostle for pole position.

359
00:22:33,240 --> 00:22:34,840
How are you enjoying Glasgow?

360
00:22:34,840 --> 00:22:39,120
It's a beautiful city
with beautiful buildings.

361
00:22:39,120 --> 00:22:41,640
Have you been to Edinburgh yet?
Yes, yes.

362
00:22:41,640 --> 00:22:43,920
And which is better,
Edinburgh or Glasgow?

363
00:22:47,240 --> 00:22:49,560
Glasgow. Ah!

364
00:22:49,560 --> 00:22:52,120
He's intimidated you, I know.

365
00:22:52,120 --> 00:22:54,280
He's got you under his thumb.

366
00:22:54,280 --> 00:22:55,480
Glasgow is wonderful.

367
00:22:55,480 --> 00:22:57,000
Edinburgh is wonderful too.

368
00:22:58,640 --> 00:23:03,040
The centre of Glasgow
still pleases the tourists.

369
00:23:03,040 --> 00:23:06,840
But I'm intrigued by another part
of the city described by Bradshaw.

370
00:23:06,840 --> 00:23:10,400
In a Victorian version
of poverty tourism,

371
00:23:10,400 --> 00:23:12,600
he sends visitors to the Calton,

372
00:23:12,600 --> 00:23:15,760
which was and is one of
its most deprived areas.

373
00:23:15,760 --> 00:23:18,960
Hello. Hi, Michael.

374
00:23:18,960 --> 00:23:21,440
So this is the Calton.
This is the Calton.

375
00:23:21,440 --> 00:23:25,840
Janey Godley ran a pub
in the Calton for over 15 years.

376
00:23:25,840 --> 00:23:29,240
Let me read you this
from my Bradshaw Guide. Good.

377
00:23:29,240 --> 00:23:33,360
"Glasgow is supposed to offer few
attractions, but this is a mistake.

378
00:23:33,360 --> 00:23:35,920
"Old Glasgow,
with all its dirt and discomfort,

379
00:23:35,920 --> 00:23:39,880
"the swarming wretchedness and filth
of the celebrated Saltmarket,

380
00:23:39,880 --> 00:23:43,680
"the Goosedubs, the Gallowgate
and the Cowcaddens

381
00:23:43,680 --> 00:23:49,200
"is well worthy of a visit,
if it were only to see how quaint
and even picturesque in misery

382
00:23:49,200 --> 00:23:51,600
"are the haunts
of the poor population

383
00:23:51,600 --> 00:23:54,280
"of one of the richest
cities of the world."

384
00:23:54,280 --> 00:23:56,880
Would it do as a description
of the Calton today?

385
00:23:56,880 --> 00:23:59,760
Partly it is still a description
of the Calton today.

386
00:23:59,760 --> 00:24:02,240
There is still some resonance
with the poverty

387
00:24:02,240 --> 00:24:04,240
and how people manage their lives,

388
00:24:04,240 --> 00:24:08,200
although whether it would make
a tourist attraction,
I'm not very sure.

389
00:24:08,200 --> 00:24:10,920
In the 19th
and early 20th centuries,

390
00:24:10,920 --> 00:24:13,200
the Calton was a wretched place.

391
00:24:13,200 --> 00:24:18,360
Several families would be
crammed into each small house.

392
00:24:18,360 --> 00:24:21,080
Cholera was a permanent threat

393
00:24:21,080 --> 00:24:23,520
and killed thousands every year.

394
00:24:23,520 --> 00:24:27,800
It's shocking to find that now,
as in Bradshaw's day,

395
00:24:27,800 --> 00:24:30,760
the area is notorious
for its social problems.

396
00:24:30,760 --> 00:24:35,120
The age expectancy is still
incredibly hard to swallow.

397
00:24:35,120 --> 00:24:37,760
I mean, the age expectancy
round here is 55.

398
00:24:37,760 --> 00:24:40,040
In Fallujah, Iraq, it's 65.

399
00:24:40,040 --> 00:24:44,600
Now, that statistic you've given
is not a very happy one, is it? No.

400
00:24:44,600 --> 00:24:48,080
I expected to find an area of narrow
little streets and tenements

401
00:24:48,080 --> 00:24:49,360
and I don't know what...

402
00:24:49,360 --> 00:24:52,920
No, that's clearly
not been here a long time.

403
00:24:52,920 --> 00:24:55,200
I mean, the oldest buildings
in the Calton

404
00:24:55,200 --> 00:24:58,680
are just a couple that are dotted
on the outskirts of the streets,

405
00:24:58,680 --> 00:25:00,520
but by and large, it is all very new.

406
00:25:00,520 --> 00:25:04,200
You wouldn't know that you were
in an ancient area, you're right.

407
00:25:04,200 --> 00:25:06,000
It doesn't really lend to itself.

408
00:25:09,040 --> 00:25:11,760
In an attempt to deal
with these difficulties,

409
00:25:11,760 --> 00:25:15,160
the Calton was rebuilt in the 1980s.

410
00:25:19,400 --> 00:25:23,440
But I'm glad to see that some
of the great Victorian buildings

411
00:25:23,440 --> 00:25:27,240
from Bradshaw's time have survived.

412
00:25:29,400 --> 00:25:32,320
Janey, we've only come 100 yards
from your old pub

413
00:25:32,320 --> 00:25:34,120
and we're in a different world.

414
00:25:34,120 --> 00:25:36,360
Yeah.
Well, this is the People's Palace,

415
00:25:36,360 --> 00:25:38,560
dedicated to the people of Glasgow,

416
00:25:38,560 --> 00:25:41,840
and over there, of course,
we've got the Doulton Fountain.

417
00:25:41,840 --> 00:25:46,560
This is, um...
the empire of Glasgow is right here,

418
00:25:46,560 --> 00:25:48,400
personified in brick.

419
00:25:48,400 --> 00:25:52,200
The one place where there is
so much death and destruction

420
00:25:52,200 --> 00:25:53,920
and yet, there's all this beauty,

421
00:25:53,920 --> 00:25:57,000
and that kind of represents
what the Calton is to me.

422
00:25:57,000 --> 00:26:02,640
There is a backdrop
of pain and difficult lives,

423
00:26:02,640 --> 00:26:08,120
yet there is still the will to go on
and a sense of regeneration.

424
00:26:08,120 --> 00:26:09,840
I came out of the Calton

425
00:26:09,840 --> 00:26:13,360
and a part of me makes me who I am
that I lived here,

426
00:26:13,360 --> 00:26:15,840
and I think I'll live forever
because of it.

427
00:26:17,960 --> 00:26:20,720
Glasgow has been
through some dark times

428
00:26:20,720 --> 00:26:22,760
and the Calton struggles still.

429
00:26:22,760 --> 00:26:27,840
Elsewhere in the city, a renaissance
has been apparent in recent years.

430
00:26:27,840 --> 00:26:32,320
Sleek, contemporary museums
now line the old docks.

431
00:26:34,080 --> 00:26:37,680
The grand Victorian buildings
of the West End have been restored.

432
00:26:38,800 --> 00:26:41,680
George Square, Glasgow,

433
00:26:41,680 --> 00:26:47,960
set out on the grand scale with
its columns and towers and statues,

434
00:26:47,960 --> 00:26:50,400
feels like a continental city,

435
00:26:50,400 --> 00:26:52,000
as though Glasgow is saying,

436
00:26:52,000 --> 00:26:54,400
"Well, we may not be the capital,

437
00:26:54,400 --> 00:26:58,760
"but we will remind you that we
are the biggest city in Scotland."

438
00:26:58,760 --> 00:27:04,680
Glasgow is a top tourist destination
with four million visitors a year.

439
00:27:04,680 --> 00:27:07,760
A city that became truly great
in Victorian times

440
00:27:07,760 --> 00:27:11,920
retains its civic pride, spurred on
by the competition from the capital.

441
00:27:14,400 --> 00:27:16,480
A handbook 150 years old

442
00:27:16,480 --> 00:27:20,640
is turning out to be a pretty
good guide to Britain today.

443
00:27:20,640 --> 00:27:23,600
It showed me how to crash a wedding

444
00:27:23,600 --> 00:27:26,280
and led me to a good
night out at the pub,

445
00:27:26,280 --> 00:27:28,000
and here in Glasgow,

446
00:27:28,000 --> 00:27:31,120
it's been a guide not only
to the fine buildings of the city,

447
00:27:31,120 --> 00:27:34,040
but even an insight
on some of its social problems,

448
00:27:34,040 --> 00:27:39,360
but for the sake of balance, I must
now go towards the Scottish capital.

449
00:27:47,880 --> 00:27:52,360
On my journey tomorrow, I'll be
braving the weather in Carluke

450
00:27:52,360 --> 00:27:55,360
to see an industry
being brought back to life.

451
00:27:55,360 --> 00:27:57,120
Is it apple juice you make or cider?

452
00:27:57,120 --> 00:28:00,440
Both. You might have to come back
in a year for the cider, though.

453
00:28:01,200 --> 00:28:04,280
I'll be searching
for a famous Scottish basement.

454
00:28:04,280 --> 00:28:06,560
I'm looking for a cellar

455
00:28:06,560 --> 00:28:10,840
where the Act of Union may have been
signed, according to my guidebook.

456
00:28:10,840 --> 00:28:13,680
Right. Um, it's actually
our ladies' toilets.

457
00:28:13,680 --> 00:28:16,960
And I'll be realising
a lifelong ambition.

458
00:28:16,960 --> 00:28:20,360
It gives you an idea of the scale,

459
00:28:20,360 --> 00:28:22,560
the complexity,

460
00:28:22,560 --> 00:28:25,400
the height.
It's a beautiful thing, isn't it?

461
00:28:44,520 --> 00:28:47,600
Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd

462
00:28:47,600 --> 00:28:50,560
E-mail subtitling@bbc.co.uk