1 00:00:04,000 --> 00:00:08,360 In 1840, one man transformed travel in Britain. 2 00:00:10,160 --> 00:00:12,280 His name was George Bradshaw 3 00:00:12,280 --> 00:00:16,760 and his railway guides inspired the Victorians to take to the tracks. 4 00:00:16,760 --> 00:00:19,320 Stop by stop, he told them where to travel, 5 00:00:19,320 --> 00:00:23,840 what to see and where to stay. 6 00:00:23,840 --> 00:00:28,080 Now 170 years later, I'm making four long journeys 7 00:00:28,080 --> 00:00:30,960 across the length and breadth of the country 8 00:00:30,960 --> 00:00:33,880 to see what remains of Bradshaw's Britain. 9 00:00:58,280 --> 00:01:00,960 Using Bradshaw's, my 19th century guidebook, 10 00:01:00,960 --> 00:01:02,720 and armed with an umbrella, 11 00:01:02,720 --> 00:01:07,080 today I'm on the last leg of my journey from Preston to Kirkcaldy. 12 00:01:07,080 --> 00:01:09,200 Today will take me to east Scotland - 13 00:01:09,200 --> 00:01:11,760 a voyage not so much of discovery as rediscovery, 14 00:01:11,760 --> 00:01:14,840 as I used to go there as a child. 15 00:01:14,840 --> 00:01:20,000 So this will be a journey of nostalgia, for places as they were, 16 00:01:20,000 --> 00:01:22,040 for people as they were, 17 00:01:22,040 --> 00:01:24,080 for people who no longer are. 18 00:01:27,800 --> 00:01:30,480 Today, I'll be braving the weather in Carluke 19 00:01:30,480 --> 00:01:34,000 to see an industry being brought back to life. 20 00:01:35,200 --> 00:01:37,520 Is it apple juice you make or cider? 21 00:01:37,520 --> 00:01:39,760 Which would you like? We can do both. 22 00:01:39,760 --> 00:01:42,840 You might have to come back in a year for the cider, though! 23 00:01:42,840 --> 00:01:46,240 I'll be searching for a famous Scottish basement. 24 00:01:46,240 --> 00:01:47,920 I'm looking for a cellar 25 00:01:47,920 --> 00:01:52,800 where the act of union may have been signed, according to my guidebook. 26 00:01:52,800 --> 00:01:55,640 Right. It's actually our ladies' toilets. 27 00:01:55,640 --> 00:01:58,600 And I'll be realising a lifelong ambition. 28 00:01:58,600 --> 00:02:01,600 It gives you an idea of the... 29 00:02:01,600 --> 00:02:06,600 the scale, the complexity, the height. 30 00:02:06,600 --> 00:02:09,760 And actually the beauty. It's a beautiful thing, isn't it? 31 00:02:13,880 --> 00:02:16,760 I'm almost at the end of my journey north from Preston. 32 00:02:16,760 --> 00:02:19,960 All this week, I've been travelling up the west of Britain, 33 00:02:19,960 --> 00:02:23,240 stopping at some of the most beautiful spots in the country. 34 00:02:24,840 --> 00:02:27,240 Having crossed the border into Scotland, 35 00:02:27,240 --> 00:02:30,280 I'm now heading for my mother's home town of Kirkcaldy. 36 00:02:33,680 --> 00:02:37,160 Today I'm leaving Glasgow and heading for Carluke. 37 00:02:37,160 --> 00:02:39,480 Then I'll hit the Scottish capital, 38 00:02:39,480 --> 00:02:43,320 before crossing the Firth of Forth to my final destination. 39 00:02:44,880 --> 00:02:49,640 My first stop will be in the Clyde Valley because I am intrigued by something in Bradshaw's. 40 00:02:49,640 --> 00:02:52,680 "The line now passes through a district of country 41 00:02:52,680 --> 00:02:55,640 "rich in mineral wealth, beautiful scenery, 42 00:02:55,640 --> 00:02:59,680 "celebrated far and near as the orchard of Scotland, 43 00:02:59,680 --> 00:03:02,000 "and famous for its fine fruit." 44 00:03:05,480 --> 00:03:09,760 In Bradshaw's time, the Clyde Valley was lush with orchards. 45 00:03:09,760 --> 00:03:14,600 Each season, trains rushed the freshly picked fruit to markets all over the country. 46 00:03:15,640 --> 00:03:19,160 But today, many of the orchards are neglected and overgrown. 47 00:03:21,120 --> 00:03:26,200 Here at Carluke, one small group of people is trying to revive this centuries-old industry. 48 00:03:28,200 --> 00:03:30,480 Morning, Tom. Morning, Michael. 49 00:03:30,480 --> 00:03:32,600 Lovely weather for it. Yes, beautiful. 50 00:03:32,600 --> 00:03:34,120 How are you? Another fine day. 51 00:03:34,120 --> 00:03:37,360 Tom Clelland's family have managed the trees here 52 00:03:37,360 --> 00:03:40,880 for more than four generations. 53 00:03:40,880 --> 00:03:44,000 May I ask what your own earliest memory is of fruit-picking? 54 00:03:44,000 --> 00:03:47,520 Because it must still have been going strong when you were a lad. 55 00:03:47,520 --> 00:03:49,440 Yeah, this road that I live in, 56 00:03:49,440 --> 00:03:52,760 everybody made their living out of growing fruit. 57 00:03:52,760 --> 00:03:56,440 In summer, they grew gooseberries, strawberries, blackcurrants. 58 00:03:56,440 --> 00:04:01,280 And then in the autumn it was mainly plums but also apples and pears. 59 00:04:01,280 --> 00:04:03,520 I remember it being put on the back of a cart 60 00:04:03,520 --> 00:04:09,040 and the tractor driving the strawberries up to a railway station that's now closed at Lesmahagow, 61 00:04:09,040 --> 00:04:12,680 and we loaded the strawberries on to the railway carriage 62 00:04:12,680 --> 00:04:14,960 and they were bound for Manchester. 63 00:04:14,960 --> 00:04:18,640 So the railways were fundamental to this business? Oh yes. 64 00:04:21,040 --> 00:04:24,680 The cooler weather here meant that fruit was still ripening 65 00:04:24,680 --> 00:04:27,480 after the season had finished further south. 66 00:04:27,480 --> 00:04:29,920 Picking was organised around the clock 67 00:04:29,920 --> 00:04:34,760 so that the fruit could be put on the early freight trains to Birmingham, Manchester and London. 68 00:04:35,880 --> 00:04:38,840 I didn't know much about the orchard of Scotland. 69 00:04:38,840 --> 00:04:40,680 Does it still justify the name? 70 00:04:40,680 --> 00:04:43,800 Um... No, not in the same way that it did. 71 00:04:43,800 --> 00:04:48,720 It kind of reached its heyday round about the start of the 20th century 72 00:04:48,720 --> 00:04:52,800 when there would be about 1,000 acres of orchards around here. 73 00:04:52,800 --> 00:04:55,480 And about another 700 acres of soft fruit 74 00:04:55,480 --> 00:04:58,600 on the other side of the valley and down that way. 75 00:04:58,600 --> 00:05:00,440 So what are you down to now? 76 00:05:00,440 --> 00:05:02,880 Less than 100 acres of top fruit. 77 00:05:02,880 --> 00:05:07,520 I've got about 150 plum trees, some apple and some pear. 78 00:05:07,520 --> 00:05:10,520 I need to plant up my orchard again. 79 00:05:10,520 --> 00:05:12,840 I need to look after it, and I'm doing that 80 00:05:12,840 --> 00:05:16,080 because it's part of my heritage, it's what I grew up with. 81 00:05:16,080 --> 00:05:22,120 Tom is now caring for the fruit trees along with other local growers like Duncan Arthur. 82 00:05:22,120 --> 00:05:23,920 Morning! 83 00:05:26,840 --> 00:05:29,600 So, I caught you pressing some apples. 84 00:05:29,600 --> 00:05:31,640 We're at the start of it anyway. 85 00:05:31,640 --> 00:05:35,440 Is it apple juice you make or cider? Which would you like? 86 00:05:35,440 --> 00:05:36,960 We can do both. 87 00:05:36,960 --> 00:05:39,960 You might have to come back in a year for the cider, though. 88 00:05:39,960 --> 00:05:42,120 All right. I'll have some apple juice. 89 00:05:42,120 --> 00:05:46,040 So, you're a neighbour of Tom's and you're a grower here as well? 90 00:05:46,040 --> 00:05:47,600 Yes, I am indeed. 91 00:05:48,600 --> 00:05:52,960 'Twice a week, Tom, Duncan and the other growers harvest the fruit 92 00:05:52,960 --> 00:05:55,680 'and produce apple juice that they sell locally.' 93 00:05:56,880 --> 00:05:59,160 That's not too bad. 94 00:05:59,160 --> 00:06:01,840 Yeah, it's a very efficient mechanism, isn't it? 95 00:06:01,840 --> 00:06:04,240 It is. That works nicely. 96 00:06:04,240 --> 00:06:06,240 I'm not sure I'd want to do it all day! 97 00:06:06,240 --> 00:06:11,720 No, but one pressing will give us about 15 or 20 litres of apple juice. 98 00:06:11,720 --> 00:06:14,760 I'll just let that run through now, I think. Yes. 99 00:06:14,760 --> 00:06:17,560 Now, can I taste it? Absolutely. Why not? 100 00:06:19,200 --> 00:06:21,640 At this point, it's a wee bit cloudy, 101 00:06:21,640 --> 00:06:24,040 but it's as Mother Nature intended. 102 00:06:30,360 --> 00:06:36,520 It's exquisite. It's quite different from apple juice in the supermarket. 103 00:06:36,520 --> 00:06:38,040 It's really... 104 00:06:38,040 --> 00:06:41,080 I don't know, tangy and...fresh... 105 00:06:42,560 --> 00:06:46,720 Well done, Duncan. You're on to something there. Thank you very much. 106 00:06:46,720 --> 00:06:50,520 It's uplifting to see the orchards being tended once more. 107 00:06:50,520 --> 00:06:56,600 They perpetuate traditional varieties of apples and pears that Bradshaw might have eaten. 108 00:07:06,000 --> 00:07:09,840 From Scotland's orchard, now to Scotland's capital. 109 00:07:12,880 --> 00:07:16,880 I'm now bound for Edinburgh, 35 miles away. 110 00:07:21,520 --> 00:07:25,600 Just one thing, is that your umbrella? No, no. 111 00:07:25,600 --> 00:07:29,120 Is there a lost property office at Edinburgh, do you know? 112 00:07:29,120 --> 00:07:33,320 In the Waverley Centre there is. Is there? I'll pop it in there. 113 00:07:33,320 --> 00:07:35,080 Thank you. 114 00:07:39,160 --> 00:07:41,800 Britain is very long from north to south, 115 00:07:41,800 --> 00:07:44,560 but tends to be very narrow from east to west. 116 00:07:44,560 --> 00:07:47,080 So even on the slowest train, 117 00:07:47,080 --> 00:07:51,960 I have quite quickly crossed virtually from Glasgow all the way to Edinburgh. 118 00:07:51,960 --> 00:07:54,720 We are just arriving at Edinburgh Haymarket. 119 00:07:54,720 --> 00:07:59,400 And then between Haymarket and Waverley is one of my favourite stretches of railway line. 120 00:07:59,400 --> 00:08:04,280 The railway runs through a ravine with the castle looming up above us. 121 00:08:12,640 --> 00:08:17,240 Now I have a wonderful sheer vertical view 122 00:08:17,240 --> 00:08:20,520 up towards Edinburgh Castle. 123 00:08:20,520 --> 00:08:25,640 And we pass along the edge of the bottom of this fantastic rock 124 00:08:25,640 --> 00:08:27,920 which dominates the city. 125 00:08:31,240 --> 00:08:33,960 Arriving at Edinburgh Waverley Station, 126 00:08:33,960 --> 00:08:37,640 my first task is to find the lost property office. 127 00:08:37,640 --> 00:08:41,040 Hi. Lost luggage? Yes, it is. Hi. 128 00:08:41,040 --> 00:08:47,000 I found this on the train. I was on the 2.15 from Glasgow Central. 129 00:08:47,000 --> 00:08:51,360 OK, that's lovely. So we'll just note down... 130 00:08:51,360 --> 00:08:55,680 I imagine you get vast amounts of lost luggage, don't you? 131 00:08:55,680 --> 00:09:00,920 We do in Edinburgh. We get a very sizeable amount of lost property. 132 00:09:00,920 --> 00:09:04,120 It comes in, and at this time of year, more so. 133 00:09:04,120 --> 00:09:07,200 Where do you keep it? There doesn't seem much room in here. 134 00:09:07,200 --> 00:09:10,840 Yeah, we keep most of our items just through there. 135 00:09:10,840 --> 00:09:14,320 I'll just show you, if you'd like to have a look? Yes, I'd love to. 136 00:09:14,320 --> 00:09:17,200 Have you any idea how many items you get a month? 137 00:09:17,200 --> 00:09:20,560 Um, it's on average about 600. 138 00:09:20,560 --> 00:09:22,600 600? Over the year. 139 00:09:22,600 --> 00:09:26,600 Lovely bits of old station showing through here. 140 00:09:26,600 --> 00:09:33,040 This is mostly August's lost property for Edinburgh Waverley Station. 141 00:09:33,040 --> 00:09:37,720 Quite a lot of umbrellas. Pictures. Yes, the pictures are interesting. 142 00:09:37,720 --> 00:09:40,040 It would be nice if somebody claimed them, 143 00:09:40,040 --> 00:09:42,280 because those are army photographs. 144 00:09:43,320 --> 00:09:46,040 This is an interesting spot, isn't it? 145 00:09:46,040 --> 00:09:49,520 Yes. It's always nice to see behind the scenes of anywhere! 146 00:09:49,520 --> 00:09:52,320 Oh! The bit the public doesn't see. 147 00:09:52,320 --> 00:09:55,280 Downstairs, there's even more. 148 00:09:55,280 --> 00:10:00,920 So, now this represents another two months' worth. 149 00:10:00,920 --> 00:10:04,040 What are the most bizarre things you've had? 150 00:10:04,040 --> 00:10:07,560 Um... The most bizarre thing probably is an octopus. 151 00:10:07,560 --> 00:10:12,040 It was for food, it was dead. But it was in a suitcase, 152 00:10:12,040 --> 00:10:15,520 in amongst other things, it was a bit... An octopus in a suitcase? 153 00:10:15,520 --> 00:10:19,360 Yeah, and another member of staff had live eels in a bag. A bag of live eels. 154 00:10:19,360 --> 00:10:22,720 So these are the most... That is bizarre. 155 00:10:22,720 --> 00:10:27,800 Whatever people have, there is a potential for them to forget it. 156 00:10:27,800 --> 00:10:30,680 Anyway, it's a very valuable service you provide. 157 00:10:30,680 --> 00:10:32,600 Thanks very much for showing me. 158 00:10:32,600 --> 00:10:34,800 You're welcome. Pleasure. Thank you. 159 00:10:40,280 --> 00:10:43,520 Waverley Station lies in the heart of Scotland's capital. 160 00:10:43,520 --> 00:10:47,200 Bradshaw describes Edinburgh as a modern Athens 161 00:10:47,200 --> 00:10:50,720 and commends its fine views of the River Forth. 162 00:10:50,720 --> 00:10:54,880 But he also points me to something that requires a little detective work. 163 00:10:54,880 --> 00:10:57,360 My Bradshaw's guide 164 00:10:57,360 --> 00:11:00,680 mentions Tron Church in the High Street. 165 00:11:00,680 --> 00:11:04,680 It says it's marked by a new spire of 140 feet. 166 00:11:04,680 --> 00:11:11,320 And indeed this tells me that the spire was rebuilt in 1828 after a fire. 167 00:11:11,320 --> 00:11:14,920 But then my Bradshaw says, "Opposite the church is a cellar 168 00:11:14,920 --> 00:11:17,880 "where the treaty of union is said to have signed." 169 00:11:17,880 --> 00:11:21,960 But that would appear to be now an Italian restaurant. 170 00:11:21,960 --> 00:11:26,080 'The treaty of 1707 joined England and Scotland 171 00:11:26,080 --> 00:11:29,520 'together under one parliament for the first time. 172 00:11:29,520 --> 00:11:34,040 'It's a key event in the history of both countries, so I'm keen to see where it happened.' 173 00:11:36,320 --> 00:11:38,440 Hi. Hello there. 174 00:11:38,440 --> 00:11:40,120 I'm looking for a cellar 175 00:11:40,120 --> 00:11:45,040 where the act of union may have been signed, according to my guidebook. 176 00:11:45,040 --> 00:11:47,600 Right. It's actually our ladies' toilets, 177 00:11:47,600 --> 00:11:50,800 but if you'd like to come down, I can show you if you want. 178 00:11:50,800 --> 00:11:55,040 I can go to your ladies' toilet? Of course you can. Thank you very much. Hmm! 179 00:11:55,040 --> 00:11:56,920 Down and down we go. 180 00:12:03,440 --> 00:12:07,240 Wow! This is it. So, you haven't put up a plaque or anything? 181 00:12:07,240 --> 00:12:08,960 No, we don't have a plaque. 182 00:12:08,960 --> 00:12:11,960 Do you get many people asking about it? Yeah, quite a few. 183 00:12:11,960 --> 00:12:13,800 We just show them down here. 184 00:12:13,800 --> 00:12:16,400 You just bring them to the ladies' loos. 185 00:12:16,400 --> 00:12:18,360 Do you know much about it? 186 00:12:18,360 --> 00:12:20,200 Um... A little bit, yeah. 187 00:12:20,200 --> 00:12:24,840 But, um, we're not 100% sure that it happened here, but... 188 00:12:24,840 --> 00:12:27,520 Oh, really? That's the story anyway. 189 00:12:27,520 --> 00:12:30,960 Oh, you mean my guidebook might be wrong? Could be. 190 00:12:32,000 --> 00:12:34,440 So, has my Bradshaw let me down? 191 00:12:36,800 --> 00:12:40,360 One thing's for certain. At the time of the treaty, 192 00:12:40,360 --> 00:12:45,080 many Scottish people were strongly opposed to the union, and riots broke out. 193 00:12:45,080 --> 00:12:47,800 Hello, John. Pleased to meet you, Michael. 194 00:12:47,800 --> 00:12:49,160 How are you? Good. 195 00:12:49,160 --> 00:12:51,600 'I'm hoping historian Dr John Young 196 00:12:51,600 --> 00:12:55,120 'can tell me what happened in those feverish days.' 197 00:12:55,120 --> 00:13:00,200 The leading Scottish politicians who wanted a union with England, 198 00:13:00,200 --> 00:13:01,680 a full union with England, 199 00:13:01,680 --> 00:13:06,120 were jostled and attacked on these streets on a regular basis. 200 00:13:06,120 --> 00:13:13,080 And there is a good possibility that Unionist politicians actually escaped 201 00:13:13,080 --> 00:13:17,480 to this cellar of this Italian restaurant which was a house. 202 00:13:18,720 --> 00:13:22,320 Word began to spread that the treaty had been signed in secret, 203 00:13:22,320 --> 00:13:25,800 by those politicians hiding in the cellar. 204 00:13:27,840 --> 00:13:31,120 The ladies' toilet in the Italian restaurant 205 00:13:31,120 --> 00:13:34,360 down here was known as Union Cellar. 206 00:13:34,360 --> 00:13:37,880 This was something that was in circulation, 207 00:13:37,880 --> 00:13:41,880 this rumour, certainly by Bradshaw's tour in the 1850s. 208 00:13:41,880 --> 00:13:45,440 It's repeated in publications in the 1890s, 209 00:13:45,440 --> 00:13:49,760 but unfortunately it is not true. 210 00:13:49,760 --> 00:13:52,440 So, do we know where the act of union WAS signed? 211 00:13:52,440 --> 00:13:55,840 Just up the road here in the old Scottish Parliament 212 00:13:55,840 --> 00:14:00,000 was where the Scottish Parliament debated the treaty of union 213 00:14:00,000 --> 00:14:04,000 and ratified the treaty of union. 214 00:14:04,000 --> 00:14:06,040 Which is kind of what you would expect. 215 00:14:06,040 --> 00:14:09,560 You'd expect it to happen in parliament rather than in a cellar. 216 00:14:09,560 --> 00:14:14,560 Even if that cellar in those days wasn't a ladies' lavatory in an Italian restaurant. 217 00:14:14,560 --> 00:14:17,760 And I can tell you, as a former British parliamentarian, 218 00:14:17,760 --> 00:14:21,920 that it wasn't our habit to sign things in ladies' lavatories. 219 00:14:23,760 --> 00:14:28,800 By the time Bradshaw was writing, England and Scotland had been riveted together. 220 00:14:28,800 --> 00:14:33,040 Queen Victoria adopted Balmoral as the Royal Family's holiday home 221 00:14:33,040 --> 00:14:34,800 and began wearing tartan. 222 00:14:34,800 --> 00:14:41,160 In Edinburgh, too, names began to take on a hint of unionism. 223 00:14:42,800 --> 00:14:46,240 Tonight I'll be staying at one of my favourite Edinburgh hotels, 224 00:14:46,240 --> 00:14:50,040 the Balmoral, which until recently was known as the North British. 225 00:14:50,040 --> 00:14:55,240 Built as the railway hotel, it sits firmly on top of Waverley Station. 226 00:14:57,840 --> 00:15:01,920 Mr Portillo, good evening, welcome to the Balmoral. It's lovely to be back. 227 00:15:01,920 --> 00:15:04,800 It's really one of the great railway hotels, isn't it? 228 00:15:04,800 --> 00:15:08,520 It is, yes. It used to be the old North British, dating back to 1902, 229 00:15:08,520 --> 00:15:10,960 with a few of our other hotels in Scotland, 230 00:15:10,960 --> 00:15:16,280 and we used to welcome the great and the good from London and further afield, 231 00:15:16,280 --> 00:15:18,960 all over the world, to the Balmoral, absolutely. 232 00:15:18,960 --> 00:15:20,600 Am I ready to check in? 233 00:15:20,600 --> 00:15:22,280 Absolutely. Please. Thank you. 234 00:15:24,200 --> 00:15:27,720 I'm sure you'll agree that I would be failing you if I didn't take 235 00:15:27,720 --> 00:15:30,000 full advantage of this luxury. 236 00:15:30,000 --> 00:15:34,360 So I intend to shake off the day's travelling in style. 237 00:15:47,640 --> 00:15:50,400 Good morning. 238 00:15:50,400 --> 00:15:52,880 So, this is my suite. 239 00:15:52,880 --> 00:15:56,760 No Scottish room would be complete without antlers. 240 00:15:56,760 --> 00:16:00,480 My favourite in this room is this little turret. 241 00:16:00,480 --> 00:16:02,800 Down to this side of the turret 242 00:16:02,800 --> 00:16:05,840 is Waverley Station, 243 00:16:05,840 --> 00:16:10,160 which is where I'm headed with my Bradshaw's now. 244 00:16:10,160 --> 00:16:13,960 This next part of my journey is something I've been looking forward to. 245 00:16:13,960 --> 00:16:17,520 Morning. Morning. What happened to the weather? 246 00:16:17,520 --> 00:16:19,160 Isn't it great? 247 00:16:19,160 --> 00:16:22,000 Great change, isn't it? It's absolutely superb. 248 00:16:22,000 --> 00:16:25,400 I'm going up top on the Forth Bridge today, on the railway bridge. 249 00:16:25,400 --> 00:16:28,840 Very nice. Which part of Scotland are you from? 250 00:16:28,840 --> 00:16:32,080 That's, erm, nearby Munich. HE LAUGHS 251 00:16:32,080 --> 00:16:35,120 I know that bit! Thank you. Bye. 252 00:16:37,720 --> 00:16:40,640 From this station, I will relive the thrill 253 00:16:40,640 --> 00:16:44,360 that my brothers and I felt as children when my mother 254 00:16:44,360 --> 00:16:47,520 took us across the mighty Firth of Forth to her hometown. 255 00:16:50,240 --> 00:16:55,680 We used to come and see my grandparents in Kirkcaldy when I was three, four, five years old. 256 00:16:55,680 --> 00:16:59,920 We'd travel on the night train, but without sleepers, we'd be in second class. 257 00:16:59,920 --> 00:17:03,360 But all night long, we wouldn't sleep for the excitement that, 258 00:17:03,360 --> 00:17:07,200 in the morning, we were going to be crossing the Forth rail bridge. 259 00:17:07,200 --> 00:17:11,280 No words can describe this iconic structure. 260 00:17:11,280 --> 00:17:14,480 It is the king of bridges. 261 00:17:14,480 --> 00:17:18,080 In fact, even now, on the whole rail network in Britain, 262 00:17:18,080 --> 00:17:23,880 every bridge and every structure is numbered, except for this one, 263 00:17:23,880 --> 00:17:28,160 except for the Forth rail bridge, which is called simply "The Bridge". 264 00:17:34,920 --> 00:17:38,840 My grandfather as a youngster would row out in a boat 265 00:17:38,840 --> 00:17:41,280 to watch the building of this masterpiece, 266 00:17:41,280 --> 00:17:45,200 Britain's first major structure in steel. 267 00:17:45,200 --> 00:17:47,640 The bridge took seven years to construct, 268 00:17:47,640 --> 00:17:50,640 and was completed in 1890. 269 00:17:53,960 --> 00:17:57,520 It feels as exciting today, I think, as when I was a child. 270 00:17:57,520 --> 00:18:00,680 It's still the most incredible thing. 271 00:18:00,680 --> 00:18:04,560 Of course, now I've been able to see it from underneath, from a distance, 272 00:18:04,560 --> 00:18:09,800 I've seen many photographs of it, I know the history, I know how many people died building it. 273 00:18:09,800 --> 00:18:14,840 All of these things simply made me more impressed by this amazing structure. 274 00:18:21,440 --> 00:18:24,040 You cross the bridge by train in a few minutes, 275 00:18:24,040 --> 00:18:27,760 and that's not the best way to appreciate the scale of this structure. 276 00:18:30,240 --> 00:18:34,760 But down here, you see its iconic three diamonds. 277 00:18:34,760 --> 00:18:36,600 This bridge is completely unique. 278 00:18:36,600 --> 00:18:40,080 Show a photograph of this bridge to anyone on the face of the planet 279 00:18:40,080 --> 00:18:44,080 and they'd know this was the one and only, the Forth rail bridge. 280 00:18:44,080 --> 00:18:47,200 George Bradshaw didn't live to see it built. 281 00:18:47,200 --> 00:18:51,040 Talking about North Queensferry, where I am now, he says, 282 00:18:51,040 --> 00:18:53,200 "In the neighbourhood of Queensferry, 283 00:18:53,200 --> 00:18:56,800 "by the sudden approximation of opposite promontories, 284 00:18:56,800 --> 00:19:00,040 "the Forth river is forced into a narrow strait." 285 00:19:00,040 --> 00:19:04,200 And then he talks about the winding bays and lofty shores bordering 286 00:19:04,200 --> 00:19:08,320 "a fine sheet of water, a noble river, a broad sea." 287 00:19:08,320 --> 00:19:11,440 It must have been difficult for George Bradshaw to imagine 288 00:19:11,440 --> 00:19:16,000 that this broad sea would soon be traversed by a mighty structure. 289 00:19:19,040 --> 00:19:21,840 Over 100 trains thunder across the bridge every day, 290 00:19:21,840 --> 00:19:27,280 and although modern trains create less stress on the bridge than Victorian steam locomotives, 291 00:19:27,280 --> 00:19:29,680 it still requires constant maintenance. 292 00:19:29,680 --> 00:19:32,240 Morning, Ian. Good morning. 293 00:19:32,240 --> 00:19:34,480 Wow, you have a privileged job. 294 00:19:34,480 --> 00:19:36,560 You are responsible for The Bridge. 295 00:19:36,560 --> 00:19:40,080 It's an absolute pleasure to be here, too. It's a wonderful bridge. 296 00:19:40,080 --> 00:19:43,720 Project manager Ian Heath is in charge of repairing 297 00:19:43,720 --> 00:19:47,040 and repainting the bridge, and he's taking me aloft. 298 00:19:47,040 --> 00:19:49,520 OK, lead on, please. On we come. 299 00:19:53,280 --> 00:19:55,960 When we get out of this lift, where will we be? 300 00:19:55,960 --> 00:20:00,320 We will be 367 feet above water level. 301 00:20:00,320 --> 00:20:03,160 We'll be on top of one of the diamond shapes? Exactly. 302 00:20:03,160 --> 00:20:06,840 We call it a tower - in the centre of each diamond, there's a tower - 303 00:20:06,840 --> 00:20:09,640 and we're at the very top of one of those. 304 00:20:09,640 --> 00:20:12,640 That's very, very thrilling. That's fantastic. 305 00:20:14,200 --> 00:20:16,080 That is absolutely magnificent. 306 00:20:19,160 --> 00:20:22,680 It gives you an idea of the scale, 307 00:20:22,680 --> 00:20:26,280 the complexity, the height, 308 00:20:26,280 --> 00:20:27,680 and actually, the beauty. 309 00:20:27,680 --> 00:20:29,440 It's a beautiful thing, isn't it? 310 00:20:29,440 --> 00:20:32,160 It is, it's a surprisingly lovely thing. 311 00:20:34,800 --> 00:20:39,240 55,000 tonnes of steel were used to build the bridge. 312 00:20:39,240 --> 00:20:43,520 It was bolted together in sections, using over eight million rivets. 313 00:20:43,520 --> 00:20:47,400 And it's massively stronger than it needs to be. 314 00:20:50,680 --> 00:20:54,520 Just a basic question. Why has it always been rusty red-coloured? 315 00:20:54,520 --> 00:20:58,320 It probably goes back to the fact that we use red lead paints. 316 00:20:58,320 --> 00:21:01,720 Principally, red was the colour of red-lead paint back in the day. 317 00:21:01,720 --> 00:21:05,000 We maintained the colour throughout the history of the bridge. 318 00:21:05,000 --> 00:21:07,920 And now you're doing some pretty major works. 319 00:21:07,920 --> 00:21:09,720 What is it you're doing? We are. 320 00:21:09,720 --> 00:21:14,000 For the first time, we're actually blasting all the old paint off. 321 00:21:14,000 --> 00:21:15,920 It's never been blasted before. 322 00:21:15,920 --> 00:21:20,120 We're turning it into a bare metal - shiny white metal - finish, 323 00:21:20,120 --> 00:21:22,960 onto which we apply the new coating system. 324 00:21:22,960 --> 00:21:26,360 And that new coating system has got a much longer lifespan 325 00:21:26,360 --> 00:21:29,680 than any of the old simple paints. 326 00:21:29,680 --> 00:21:32,240 It's going to last 25, 30... 327 00:21:32,240 --> 00:21:35,160 We think even up to 40 years, this paint system. 328 00:21:35,160 --> 00:21:40,440 Really? So that means that the old adage about "You never stop painting the Forth rail bridge," 329 00:21:40,440 --> 00:21:43,000 that's going to become a thing of the past, is it? 330 00:21:43,000 --> 00:21:44,800 In essence, it probably is. 331 00:21:44,800 --> 00:21:49,560 Working on the bridge, has it given you a greater admiration for the Victorians who built it? 332 00:21:49,560 --> 00:21:50,800 Totally, absolutely. 333 00:21:50,800 --> 00:21:53,880 The Victorians built a special bridge, no question at all. 334 00:21:53,880 --> 00:21:56,520 The engineers had vision unlike any others, 335 00:21:56,520 --> 00:22:00,280 and certainly the workforce knew no fear. 336 00:22:00,280 --> 00:22:02,680 They went and worked very, very well. 337 00:22:02,680 --> 00:22:05,320 And sadly, quite a lot of them lost their lives. 338 00:22:05,320 --> 00:22:09,640 They did, some 75 people died during the construction of the bridge. 339 00:22:09,640 --> 00:22:14,040 Thankfully, today we have none of that. We've got a very good safety record on site. 340 00:22:16,520 --> 00:22:19,880 It's been so exciting to realise a lifelong ambition 341 00:22:19,880 --> 00:22:22,680 and look down from the summit of the bridge. 342 00:22:22,680 --> 00:22:26,720 It ranks as one of the greatest engineering feats of our history. 343 00:22:29,800 --> 00:22:33,840 Now I'm close to my final destination on this journey, 344 00:22:33,840 --> 00:22:35,800 a place full of childhood memories. 345 00:22:35,800 --> 00:22:39,360 When I was a kid, going to Kirkcaldy was not just exciting 346 00:22:39,360 --> 00:22:41,080 because of the rail journey 347 00:22:41,080 --> 00:22:44,000 and the fact we were going to another country. 348 00:22:44,000 --> 00:22:47,400 My parents were not particularly well off, but my grandparents 349 00:22:47,400 --> 00:22:50,360 were quite rich, and they had a big house. 350 00:22:50,360 --> 00:22:55,640 My grandad would even send the maroon-coloured 1953 Daimler 351 00:22:55,640 --> 00:23:01,080 to meet us at the station, with the chauffeur in his double-buttoned tunic 352 00:23:01,080 --> 00:23:05,320 and his peaked cap and his great big chauffeur's gloves. 353 00:23:07,720 --> 00:23:10,280 An image from a lost age. 354 00:23:10,280 --> 00:23:13,160 More like a dream than a memory. 355 00:23:13,160 --> 00:23:16,440 Bradshaw's guide says of Kirkcaldy very simply, 356 00:23:16,440 --> 00:23:19,120 "A borough engaged in the linen trade." 357 00:23:19,120 --> 00:23:22,880 My grandfather had a linen factory. 358 00:23:22,880 --> 00:23:25,760 I was very fond of him. 359 00:23:25,760 --> 00:23:28,480 One thing I remember was, he was very proud of Fife, 360 00:23:28,480 --> 00:23:31,040 which had been a kingdom, he said, and he hated it 361 00:23:31,040 --> 00:23:35,280 when people called it Fifeshire, as though it were a mere county. 362 00:23:35,280 --> 00:23:39,240 Although it's 47 years since he died, very often 363 00:23:39,240 --> 00:23:44,000 when I'm in Scotland I find time still to go back to Kirkcaldy 364 00:23:44,000 --> 00:23:45,560 and to remember him. 365 00:23:48,800 --> 00:23:54,960 My grandfather, John Blyth, ran a successful family business in Kirkcaldy, manufacturing linen. 366 00:23:54,960 --> 00:24:00,400 The town had become famous for its linen and sale cloth in the early 19th century. 367 00:24:00,400 --> 00:24:03,440 By the 1870s, entrepreneurs used linen 368 00:24:03,440 --> 00:24:08,240 as a backing for an entirely new product called linoleum. 369 00:24:08,240 --> 00:24:11,960 Soon, Kirkcaldy became the world's largest lino producer, 370 00:24:11,960 --> 00:24:14,800 with factories all along the railway tracks. 371 00:24:16,520 --> 00:24:19,280 Although John Blyth stuck to linen, 372 00:24:19,280 --> 00:24:23,320 he did well, and bought a large house in Kirkcaldy. 373 00:24:23,320 --> 00:24:26,320 One of the pleasures for my brothers and me 374 00:24:26,320 --> 00:24:29,040 was the railway at the end of the street. 375 00:24:33,680 --> 00:24:36,120 So that's what we used to do as kids. 376 00:24:36,120 --> 00:24:40,400 We would come here and stand by the wall - there wasn't a fence on it - 377 00:24:40,400 --> 00:24:44,520 and watch the trains go by. But in those days, they were steam locomotives. 378 00:24:47,920 --> 00:24:50,960 Ever since, I've never got trains out of my system. 379 00:24:50,960 --> 00:24:53,800 The house itself was an imposing building, 380 00:24:53,800 --> 00:24:57,040 with a grandeur that astonished my brothers and me. 381 00:24:59,880 --> 00:25:04,360 In this porch, my grandfather kept all of his walking sticks. 382 00:25:04,360 --> 00:25:06,520 This was the hallway. 383 00:25:06,520 --> 00:25:09,880 Under this tartan carpet is polished wood. 384 00:25:09,880 --> 00:25:13,600 And this magnificent staircase 385 00:25:13,600 --> 00:25:17,560 was my way every evening up to bed. 386 00:25:17,560 --> 00:25:23,480 On these walls hung enormous paintings. 387 00:25:23,480 --> 00:25:29,720 Seascapes and pictures of children being blown around on sea shores. 388 00:25:32,560 --> 00:25:34,800 And I remember that lovely window as well. 389 00:25:34,800 --> 00:25:37,040 And on and on. 390 00:25:37,040 --> 00:25:38,560 And so to bed. 391 00:25:41,760 --> 00:25:44,920 Today, my grandfather's pictures, bought with the profits 392 00:25:44,920 --> 00:25:48,800 from the factory, are displayed in the town's impressive art gallery. 393 00:25:48,800 --> 00:25:53,080 John Blyth's Victorian upbringing gave him and other businessmen 394 00:25:53,080 --> 00:25:55,200 an intense sense of civic pride. 395 00:25:55,200 --> 00:25:59,840 My grandfather was a big paintings collector, and became the first curator of the gallery. 396 00:25:59,840 --> 00:26:04,600 And at the opening ceremony in 1926, my mother as a little girl 397 00:26:04,600 --> 00:26:07,920 presented the posy of flowers to the guests of honour. 398 00:26:17,680 --> 00:26:23,120 In the next two rooms are paintings that used to belong to my grandfather. 399 00:26:23,120 --> 00:26:25,560 These are by William McTaggart. 400 00:26:25,560 --> 00:26:29,200 He was born around the time that George Bradshaw died. 401 00:26:29,200 --> 00:26:31,720 Some could be very, very sentimental, 402 00:26:31,720 --> 00:26:34,440 but I remember paintings like this, 403 00:26:34,440 --> 00:26:38,160 scary ones of children being battered by storms. 404 00:26:38,160 --> 00:26:41,040 They really rather frightened me. 405 00:26:41,040 --> 00:26:44,440 I remember my grandfather's house being full of still lifes. 406 00:26:47,240 --> 00:26:48,800 This one I remember well. 407 00:26:48,800 --> 00:26:53,320 This is obviously inspired by a French Impressionist, 408 00:26:53,320 --> 00:26:55,880 by Paul Cezanne. 409 00:26:55,880 --> 00:26:59,280 Even as a kid, I loved these 410 00:26:59,280 --> 00:27:02,120 brightly-coloured, easy-to-understand pictures. 411 00:27:04,520 --> 00:27:10,880 I love to see my grandfather's paintings on display for all to enjoy, just as he intended. 412 00:27:11,920 --> 00:27:14,320 This has been a journey of legacies. 413 00:27:14,320 --> 00:27:18,440 In the Clyde valley, the fruit growers are planting their orchards again. 414 00:27:18,440 --> 00:27:22,280 On the Forth rail bridge, the engineers are building anew. 415 00:27:22,280 --> 00:27:25,720 And here in Kirkcaldy, my grandfather's industry 416 00:27:25,720 --> 00:27:28,160 is perpetuated through linoleum, 417 00:27:28,160 --> 00:27:32,640 and his beloved collection of paintings still bears his name. 418 00:27:32,640 --> 00:27:36,720 Time has eroded, but it has not destroyed. 419 00:27:46,760 --> 00:27:51,800 On my journey next week, I'll be travelling from Swindon down to Penzance. 420 00:27:55,000 --> 00:27:58,920 Along the way, I'll be sampling the Spa at Bath. 421 00:27:58,920 --> 00:28:03,800 These things are great for wallowing! Yes! I can think of various... 422 00:28:03,800 --> 00:28:06,960 You could deliver a nasty blow to someone with one of those! 423 00:28:06,960 --> 00:28:10,440 I'll be travelling like the Victorians. 424 00:28:10,440 --> 00:28:13,440 Not only did the trains make it possible for them 425 00:28:13,440 --> 00:28:15,760 to do things they'd never done before, 426 00:28:15,760 --> 00:28:20,640 they also brought them into the heart of countryside and landscape, 427 00:28:20,640 --> 00:28:26,040 the like of which city dwellers in particular had never seen. 428 00:28:26,040 --> 00:28:29,720 And I'll be tasting some of Cornwall's freshest produce. 429 00:28:29,720 --> 00:28:31,200 Cheers. Cheers. 430 00:28:32,360 --> 00:28:36,320 I could have another of those! You can have as many as you like! 431 00:28:48,840 --> 00:28:50,640 Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd 432 00:28:50,640 --> 00:28:52,880 E-mail subtitling@bbc.co.uk