1 00:00:04,040 --> 00:00:08,720 In 1840, one man transformed travel in Britain. 2 00:00:10,440 --> 00:00:16,680 His name was George Bradshaw and his railway guides inspired the Victorians to take to the tracks 3 00:00:16,680 --> 00:00:23,800 Stop by stop, he told them where to travel, what to see and where to stay. 4 00:00:23,800 --> 00:00:29,880 Now 170 years later, I'm making four long journeys across the length and breadth of the country 5 00:00:29,880 --> 00:00:33,760 to see what remains of Bradshaw's Britain. 6 00:00:56,120 --> 00:00:58,520 Ever since I was a kid, I've found it exciting 7 00:00:58,520 --> 00:01:02,200 to travel by train, whether rattling along high-speed lines 8 00:01:02,200 --> 00:01:05,920 or pottering along single tracks, 9 00:01:05,920 --> 00:01:09,520 there's something very special about a railway journey. 10 00:01:09,520 --> 00:01:13,720 Now I'm following Bradshaw's 19th-century guide to the railways 11 00:01:13,720 --> 00:01:17,320 to find out how much the railways changed Britain 12 00:01:17,320 --> 00:01:19,800 and how much Britain has changed since. 13 00:01:22,480 --> 00:01:26,120 Today I'll be finding out about free rail trips. 14 00:01:26,120 --> 00:01:31,400 The whole town was going on holiday at the same time. Virtually, yes. 15 00:01:31,400 --> 00:01:35,480 Virtually, yes. Virtually the whole town was coming to a standstill. 16 00:01:35,480 --> 00:01:38,120 'I'll be sampling the spa in Bath.' 17 00:01:38,120 --> 00:01:39,840 What is the etiquette? 18 00:01:39,840 --> 00:01:41,520 A sort of wallowing etiquette. 19 00:01:41,520 --> 00:01:46,720 Wallowing. These are great for wallowing. Yeah? I could think of various... 20 00:01:46,720 --> 00:01:50,120 You could deliver a nasty blow to someone with one of those. 21 00:01:50,120 --> 00:01:53,600 And I'll be trying my hand at glass blowing. 22 00:01:53,600 --> 00:01:58,520 Very, very impressed. I've got to be honest, I really am truly impressed. 23 00:02:01,120 --> 00:02:08,680 All this week, I'm following my Bradshaw's Guide to the West Country along the Great Western Railway. 24 00:02:08,680 --> 00:02:10,720 Stretching over 300 miles, 25 00:02:10,720 --> 00:02:14,960 this was one of the earliest passenger routes in England, 26 00:02:14,960 --> 00:02:20,120 created by the great Victorian engineer, Isambard Kingdom Brunel. 27 00:02:20,120 --> 00:02:22,640 It will take me through Devon and Cornwall 28 00:02:22,640 --> 00:02:25,120 to the end of the line at Penzance. 29 00:02:26,840 --> 00:02:28,520 Starting in Swindon, 30 00:02:28,520 --> 00:02:33,040 today I'll cover the first 40 miles through Bath to Bristol. 31 00:02:37,360 --> 00:02:40,720 This route was nicknamed the holiday line 32 00:02:40,720 --> 00:02:45,440 because, for the first time, large numbers of people could afford to travel by train. 33 00:02:47,400 --> 00:02:52,880 Most people today take it for granted that they will get a holiday away from home at some time, 34 00:02:52,880 --> 00:02:56,920 but, before the railways, most people couldn't have dreamt of that. 35 00:02:58,920 --> 00:03:00,920 The change that occurred in Britain 36 00:03:00,920 --> 00:03:04,040 when suddenly people could take a seaside holiday 37 00:03:04,040 --> 00:03:09,720 must have been quite similar to the package holiday revolution in our own time. 38 00:03:09,720 --> 00:03:13,800 Nowadays, people can go to Spain or they can go to Thailand. 39 00:03:13,800 --> 00:03:18,640 But in those days, to be able to go to Devon and Cornwall... 40 00:03:18,640 --> 00:03:20,840 It really changed people's lives. 41 00:03:31,040 --> 00:03:32,520 This is Swindon. 42 00:03:34,760 --> 00:03:39,800 In Bradshaw's day, Swindon was the headquarters of the Great Western Railway, 43 00:03:39,800 --> 00:03:43,960 which built all its locomotives in the town's colossal workshops. 44 00:03:43,960 --> 00:03:45,480 Bradshaw described it as, 45 00:03:45,480 --> 00:03:50,160 "One of the extraordinary products of railway enterprise of the present age. 46 00:03:50,160 --> 00:03:53,680 "It's a colony of engineers and handicraft men." 47 00:03:55,520 --> 00:03:58,640 These clearly are the old railway works. 48 00:03:58,640 --> 00:04:02,000 Bradshaw was awestruck by them, they were so vast. 49 00:04:02,000 --> 00:04:07,040 I think they're probably a bit smaller than they were, but even so, they are pretty impressive. 50 00:04:07,040 --> 00:04:09,440 This was the hub of the Great Western Railway 51 00:04:09,440 --> 00:04:13,160 and they attracted skilled people from all over Britain 52 00:04:13,160 --> 00:04:18,720 to build and maintain the engines for the Great Western Railway. 53 00:04:18,720 --> 00:04:20,880 No wonder Bradshaw was bowled over. 54 00:04:26,280 --> 00:04:30,040 Everyone in Swindon seems to know about the works. 55 00:04:30,040 --> 00:04:31,760 How are you? 56 00:04:31,760 --> 00:04:35,240 Nice to see you. Nice to see you. I watch you on the TV. 57 00:04:35,240 --> 00:04:39,240 Thank you very much. Here we are doing something about the railways. 58 00:04:39,240 --> 00:04:41,160 Oh, right. Is Swindon a railway town? 59 00:04:41,160 --> 00:04:44,200 It certainly is. This used to be the works. Yes, I know. 60 00:04:44,200 --> 00:04:46,880 Quite a lot of it has gone, is that right? 61 00:04:46,880 --> 00:04:48,840 Yes. 62 00:04:48,840 --> 00:04:51,920 Your government, Margaret Thatcher, closed most of it. 63 00:04:51,920 --> 00:04:55,160 You don't live in one of these, do you? I don't. 64 00:04:55,160 --> 00:04:59,400 This is the modern village that was built for the railway workers. 65 00:04:59,400 --> 00:05:02,960 'The Great Western Railway Company was a pioneering employer 66 00:05:02,960 --> 00:05:08,160 'and it needed thousands of workers, so it built them houses.' 67 00:05:08,160 --> 00:05:10,360 The village does still look very good. 68 00:05:10,360 --> 00:05:13,920 This side looks pretty derelict but that side still looks pretty good. 69 00:05:13,920 --> 00:05:17,800 There used to be various workshops but I think most of them have shut. 70 00:05:17,800 --> 00:05:22,560 I don't know who rents it out any more. I'm going to potter about and have a look at it all. 71 00:05:22,560 --> 00:05:27,320 I look forward to seeing you on the telly. Nice to meet you. Very nice to see you. Goodbye. 72 00:05:33,960 --> 00:05:37,440 'As well as decent houses, there were other perks for the workers. 73 00:05:37,440 --> 00:05:42,640 'In 1848, the Great Western Railway began to run free trains every July 74 00:05:42,640 --> 00:05:44,760 'for their employees to go on holiday. 75 00:05:44,760 --> 00:05:47,040 'It became known as Trip.' 76 00:05:47,040 --> 00:05:49,720 Who are Ron and Mary? Hello. Hi, Mary. 77 00:05:49,720 --> 00:05:56,120 'Friends Ron and Mary travelled on those trains to Paignton almost every summer for 50 years.' 78 00:05:56,120 --> 00:05:58,120 What was Trip? 79 00:05:58,120 --> 00:06:00,440 A glorious holiday at the seaside. 80 00:06:00,440 --> 00:06:03,800 The railway works' annual holidays. 81 00:06:03,800 --> 00:06:05,520 They'd close... 82 00:06:05,520 --> 00:06:11,160 and it was all the build-up for going away on holiday to the seaside. 83 00:06:11,160 --> 00:06:16,160 A whole town was going on holiday at the same time? Virtually, yes. 84 00:06:16,160 --> 00:06:20,200 Virtually, yes. Virtually the whole town was coming to a standstill. 85 00:06:20,200 --> 00:06:27,080 What did the railway workers pay to go on these trains? Nothing. We had free travel. 86 00:06:27,080 --> 00:06:32,680 'Ron and Mary and most of their families worked for the railways. 87 00:06:32,680 --> 00:06:37,480 'By 1900, the Swindon works employed three quarters of the town's population. 88 00:06:37,480 --> 00:06:43,440 'Soon, almost 30,000 people were taking Trip trains every year 89 00:06:43,440 --> 00:06:47,160 'to resorts all over the South West.' 90 00:06:47,160 --> 00:06:53,000 Were you dressed up in smart clothing for the Trip? Oh, yes. 91 00:06:53,000 --> 00:06:54,440 You had to look your best. 92 00:06:54,440 --> 00:07:01,120 Even though you were going down to the beach, the beach hut, you still had to be dressed Sunday best. 93 00:07:01,120 --> 00:07:05,520 Just tell me what it's like to travel in a train in those days 94 00:07:05,520 --> 00:07:08,720 with a steam engine up the front - what was that like? 95 00:07:08,720 --> 00:07:12,240 Oh, lovely. Lovely. They are so friendly, steam engines. 96 00:07:12,240 --> 00:07:17,320 Ch-ch-ch-ch, ch-ch-ch-ch. Rattling away, because now... There was always a tune. 97 00:07:17,320 --> 00:07:18,800 Smoke coming in the windows? 98 00:07:18,800 --> 00:07:21,880 Oh, yes. Grit, dirt and smoke. 99 00:07:24,360 --> 00:07:25,880 Within a few decades, 100 00:07:25,880 --> 00:07:32,720 the railways had turned quiet coastal villages into bustling holiday destinations. 101 00:07:32,720 --> 00:07:38,480 What was the resort like? Wonderful. We had the same beach huts. 102 00:07:38,480 --> 00:07:40,520 Beach huts next to one another. 103 00:07:40,520 --> 00:07:44,720 We'd decorate it when it was her father's birthday and when it was my mother's. 104 00:07:44,720 --> 00:07:52,680 Always a week? Sometimes a fortnight later on but previously we didn't get paid for any holidays, 105 00:07:52,680 --> 00:07:54,520 not until after the war. 106 00:07:54,520 --> 00:07:59,480 When they came back from Trip they used to call it the dry week, 107 00:07:59,480 --> 00:08:02,560 because they had no pay, they couldn't drink. 108 00:08:02,560 --> 00:08:08,000 The fact that you'd been away for a week meant the following week wasn't paid. That's right, no money. 109 00:08:08,000 --> 00:08:14,200 Overall, working for the railway was a good thing, do you think? Oh, yes. Oh, yes. 110 00:08:14,200 --> 00:08:20,720 If you died, they'd take you away for your funeral. A full service. 111 00:08:20,720 --> 00:08:24,560 They always used to say from the cradle to the grave, didn't they, Ron? 112 00:08:24,560 --> 00:08:27,240 Births, deaths and marriages. Everything. 113 00:08:27,240 --> 00:08:29,040 It's been great talking to you. 114 00:08:29,040 --> 00:08:30,680 Thank you very much. Thank you. 115 00:08:32,320 --> 00:08:37,200 The railways enabled the workers to go on holiday to the coast. 116 00:08:37,200 --> 00:08:40,840 They also helped ordinary Victorians to become tourists 117 00:08:40,840 --> 00:08:44,040 in places previously accessible only to the rich. 118 00:08:45,720 --> 00:08:49,920 One of those attractions is 35 miles away. 119 00:08:49,920 --> 00:08:51,160 Next stop, Bath. 120 00:08:53,440 --> 00:08:59,080 For the next leg of my journey, I'm following Bradshaw's Guide from Swindon to Bath Spa. 121 00:08:59,080 --> 00:09:02,800 One section of the Great Western Railway, Box Hill, 122 00:09:02,800 --> 00:09:07,880 posed a particular challenge for the line's engineer, Brunel. 123 00:09:07,880 --> 00:09:13,760 The hill was too steep to run the railway over it so he decided to go straight through it. 124 00:09:15,320 --> 00:09:18,000 This is the Box Tunnel - 125 00:09:18,000 --> 00:09:21,560 a feat of engineering by Brunel that Bradshaw was very impressed by. 126 00:09:21,560 --> 00:09:26,560 He writes, "It's upwards of one mile and three quarters in length 127 00:09:26,560 --> 00:09:30,720 "through the solid heart and immense mass of Box Hill." 128 00:09:30,720 --> 00:09:36,320 It took 4,000 men almost four years to dig through the limestone rock 129 00:09:36,320 --> 00:09:40,680 but when it was finished it was the longest railway tunnel in the world. 130 00:09:40,680 --> 00:09:43,600 It caused some controversy. 131 00:09:43,600 --> 00:09:49,880 Brunel had acquired an adversary, a Dr Dionysius Lardner. 132 00:09:49,880 --> 00:09:55,560 He said that if you travel through this tunnel at the speeds they were going at - nearly 60 mph - 133 00:09:55,560 --> 00:09:59,560 the air would be sucked out of your body and people would die. 134 00:09:59,560 --> 00:10:03,080 Fear spread, as it does with health scares today, 135 00:10:03,080 --> 00:10:07,360 so lots of people decided they would get off the train before it entered the tunnel, 136 00:10:07,360 --> 00:10:10,600 make the journey by road and rejoin the train at the other side. 137 00:10:10,600 --> 00:10:12,000 But... HE INHALES 138 00:10:12,000 --> 00:10:14,200 I seem to be doing fine! 139 00:10:24,040 --> 00:10:31,520 This has to be one of the prettiest approaches to any railway station in England. 140 00:10:33,280 --> 00:10:38,440 I can see spires and terraces and church towers 141 00:10:38,440 --> 00:10:41,360 and lovely open spaces. 142 00:10:41,360 --> 00:10:43,280 A magnificent city. 143 00:10:46,080 --> 00:10:48,160 And I'm not alone. 144 00:10:48,160 --> 00:10:53,640 Bradshaw says, "The view from the station is one calculated to impress a stranger very favourably 145 00:10:53,640 --> 00:10:59,640 "with the importance of the city, so renowned in the world of fashionable invalids." 146 00:10:59,640 --> 00:11:03,720 So, Bath. Straightaway, you are struck by the very beautiful colour of stone. 147 00:11:03,720 --> 00:11:07,320 But right here by the station, this is not the finest bit. 148 00:11:07,320 --> 00:11:10,920 I want to find those crescents and terraces that I remember 149 00:11:10,920 --> 00:11:15,600 and that Bradshaw waxes lyrical about. 150 00:11:18,040 --> 00:11:23,720 It was the Georgian architecture of Bath that so impressed Bradshaw. 151 00:11:23,720 --> 00:11:27,640 He wrote of Bath, "Spacious streets, groves and crescents 152 00:11:27,640 --> 00:11:31,920 "lined with stately stone edifices and intersected by squares and gardens 153 00:11:31,920 --> 00:11:38,240 "complete a view of city grandeur scarcely surpassed by any other in the kingdom. 154 00:11:38,240 --> 00:11:43,080 "The gaieties of Bath are celebrated all over Europe." 155 00:11:43,080 --> 00:11:49,080 Bath's elegant streets were designed by the architect John Wood in the 18th century. 156 00:11:50,760 --> 00:11:58,560 His classic uniform facades gave simple terraced houses the grandeur of stately homes. 157 00:11:58,560 --> 00:12:02,480 In Bradshaw's day, Bath was the playground of high society, 158 00:12:02,480 --> 00:12:05,000 but the railways changed all that. 159 00:12:05,000 --> 00:12:08,840 For the first time, the middle and lower classes could afford to travel here 160 00:12:08,840 --> 00:12:12,440 and sample what the wealthy had been enjoying for centuries - 161 00:12:12,440 --> 00:12:13,960 the spas. 162 00:12:15,280 --> 00:12:18,800 This is one of what were three medieval baths - 163 00:12:18,800 --> 00:12:21,800 there was the Hot Bath, the King's Bath and the Cross Bath. 164 00:12:21,800 --> 00:12:23,880 We'll go in and have a look at it. 165 00:12:23,880 --> 00:12:27,480 'Dr Roger Rolls is a GP and medical historian 166 00:12:27,480 --> 00:12:31,040 'who has been studying the medicinal properties of the waters.' 167 00:12:32,080 --> 00:12:36,040 It's a wonderful combination of the old and the new. 168 00:12:36,040 --> 00:12:38,880 Absolutely. It's been restored very beautifully. 169 00:12:38,880 --> 00:12:42,320 This is where the spring comes out. 170 00:12:42,320 --> 00:12:46,400 That is a hot spring coming out at that temperature from the ground. 171 00:12:46,400 --> 00:12:49,560 It is quite warm, it's kind of blood temperature. 172 00:12:49,560 --> 00:12:53,640 More than blood temperature. More than body temperature. About 44 degrees. 173 00:12:53,640 --> 00:12:57,840 Did many famous people come to this bath? Samuel Pepys used to come here. 174 00:12:57,840 --> 00:13:00,840 He liked to get here very early in the morning at 4 o'clock 175 00:13:00,840 --> 00:13:03,480 because he didn't like the crowds later on. 176 00:13:03,480 --> 00:13:07,800 The most famous person who came here was Mary of Modena, 177 00:13:07,800 --> 00:13:11,880 who came in order to avail herself of the property of the water, 178 00:13:11,880 --> 00:13:16,880 which was supposed to improve fertility and fecundity. 179 00:13:16,880 --> 00:13:21,600 Mary of Modena was married to King James II of England. 180 00:13:21,600 --> 00:13:25,920 They'd been trying to produce an heir to the throne for 14 years. 181 00:13:25,920 --> 00:13:31,000 She was successful in the following year - she gave birth to a son. 182 00:13:31,000 --> 00:13:36,040 No-one quite knows whether it was the effect of the waters that did it 183 00:13:36,040 --> 00:13:39,000 or the fact that there was mixed bathing 184 00:13:39,000 --> 00:13:44,880 and quite a licentious attitude to bathing at that time. 185 00:13:44,880 --> 00:13:49,400 What about the whole business of the magical waters of Bath? 186 00:13:49,400 --> 00:13:54,160 Are there properties in this water that make them curative? 187 00:13:54,160 --> 00:13:56,640 A lot of people thought there were. 188 00:13:56,640 --> 00:14:00,920 The main reason for that was that they thought the water could go through the skin, 189 00:14:00,920 --> 00:14:04,840 through pores in the skin. That's been disproved. Has it? 190 00:14:04,840 --> 00:14:11,720 One theory is that certainly many of those with paralysis that came to Bath were due to lead poisoning. 191 00:14:11,720 --> 00:14:14,960 In the 18th century, nobody realised it was lead poisoning, 192 00:14:14,960 --> 00:14:18,520 but by the time the railways came here it was well-known. 193 00:14:18,520 --> 00:14:20,640 What difference did the water make? 194 00:14:20,640 --> 00:14:26,440 Some recent research that was done into immersing people up to their necks - 195 00:14:26,440 --> 00:14:31,200 they would have shown that if you have raised levels of lead in your body, 196 00:14:31,200 --> 00:14:35,200 it's excreted more rapidly if you immerse yourself regularly... 197 00:14:35,200 --> 00:14:39,880 It's just pressing? It's literally pressing and it makes your kidneys work harder. 198 00:14:39,880 --> 00:14:44,280 Whatever the reason was, people came here and were happy because they felt better? 199 00:14:44,280 --> 00:14:48,720 They were very happy. They came here in droves, as they still do. 200 00:14:51,320 --> 00:14:57,640 During the last century, the baths' popularity declined until they were closed in 1978. 201 00:14:57,640 --> 00:15:03,040 But a few years ago, contemporary architects gave the baths a multi-million-pound renovation. 202 00:15:03,040 --> 00:15:05,760 Fashionable invalids, as Bradshaw called them, 203 00:15:05,760 --> 00:15:10,080 and many others, are flocking back to the baths from all over the country. 204 00:15:12,400 --> 00:15:13,640 Brilliant. 205 00:15:15,880 --> 00:15:17,520 Fantastic. 206 00:15:17,520 --> 00:15:19,920 Lift goes straight out into an open air pool. 207 00:15:21,960 --> 00:15:24,200 This is obviously very new. 208 00:15:24,200 --> 00:15:27,280 This was by the architect Nicholas Grimshaw. 209 00:15:27,280 --> 00:15:30,480 But I suppose it's kind of the modern interpretation 210 00:15:30,480 --> 00:15:36,520 of what it's been like to take the waters in Bath over many centuries. 211 00:15:38,080 --> 00:15:42,000 'People are drawn here by the warm waters all year round, 212 00:15:42,000 --> 00:15:45,560 'just as they were in Bradshaw's day, over 150 years ago.' 213 00:15:45,560 --> 00:15:49,280 It's fantastic to be in such a warm bath, isn't it? 214 00:15:49,280 --> 00:15:52,880 Yes. And I think somehow to know that it's natural... 215 00:15:52,880 --> 00:15:58,240 It's hard to get your head around that bit. That it's come from the earth at this temperature? Yeah. 216 00:15:58,240 --> 00:15:59,920 But talk about a pool with a view! 217 00:15:59,920 --> 00:16:02,920 Look at this! That's half the attraction. It's fantastic. 218 00:16:02,920 --> 00:16:05,880 You've been when it's been raining, haven't you? 219 00:16:05,880 --> 00:16:07,880 Yes. And it's still open, still warm. 220 00:16:07,880 --> 00:16:12,840 What is the etiquette? Nobody's swimming up and down, doing lengths. What's the etiquette? 221 00:16:12,840 --> 00:16:16,240 It's a sort of wallowing etiquette. A wallowing etiquette. 222 00:16:16,240 --> 00:16:19,000 These things are great for wallowing. Yes. 223 00:16:19,000 --> 00:16:21,040 I could think of various... 224 00:16:21,040 --> 00:16:25,160 You could deliver a nasty blow to someone with one of those. I guess so! 225 00:16:25,160 --> 00:16:29,760 I do feel rejuvenated by that bath. 226 00:16:29,760 --> 00:16:34,920 But I think it was...not just the warm water but also the sun 227 00:16:34,920 --> 00:16:39,400 and that wonderful, unforgettable view of Bath. 228 00:16:43,080 --> 00:16:47,600 When the wealthy came to take the waters here in the 18th and 19th centuries, 229 00:16:47,600 --> 00:16:49,960 they also needed a place to stay. 230 00:16:51,520 --> 00:16:53,960 The Royal Crescent, Bath. 231 00:16:53,960 --> 00:16:56,360 Magnificent. 232 00:16:56,360 --> 00:17:00,040 Don't you love its grandeur, its elegance, its open spaces? 233 00:17:00,040 --> 00:17:02,120 This amazing view. 234 00:17:05,200 --> 00:17:10,040 The Royal Crescent never changes. It was like this when I was last here, I think. 235 00:17:10,040 --> 00:17:16,560 But I was quite a bit smaller and, of course, your memories are never exactly right. 236 00:17:16,560 --> 00:17:21,040 I don't remember it being so open. I don't remember the greenery. 237 00:17:21,040 --> 00:17:24,280 It's magnificent. You don't tire of it. 238 00:17:28,280 --> 00:17:32,440 The Duke of York lived here in the middle of the Royal Crescent in the 18th century, 239 00:17:32,440 --> 00:17:36,200 and, luckily for me, his house has been turned into a hotel. 240 00:17:36,200 --> 00:17:41,360 Welcome to the hotel. Thank you very much. I have come to stay. Only one night, I'm afraid. 241 00:17:41,360 --> 00:17:43,200 I'm sure we can talk you into more! 242 00:17:43,200 --> 00:17:48,040 'Head concierge, Mark Hanks, has worked at the hotel for the last 22 years.' 243 00:17:48,040 --> 00:17:51,080 And is this really the Grand Old Duke of York's? Yes. 244 00:17:51,080 --> 00:17:55,720 The Grand Old Duke of York frequented Bath and actually stayed in this house for some time. 245 00:17:55,720 --> 00:18:00,520 The one who marched his men to the top of the hill? Yes, the hill that we can see from your room. 246 00:18:00,520 --> 00:18:03,440 Oh! It's really lovely, thank you. Absolute pleasure. 247 00:18:03,440 --> 00:18:05,160 I'll just place the case for you. 248 00:18:05,160 --> 00:18:10,000 Thank you. Do enjoy your stay and if there's anything else you need, please give us a call, sir. 249 00:18:10,000 --> 00:18:11,800 Thank you very much. Pleasure. 250 00:18:13,360 --> 00:18:15,040 I've hit the jackpot. 251 00:18:19,960 --> 00:18:25,000 After a night's sleep in a bed fit for a king, or a duke at least, 252 00:18:25,000 --> 00:18:27,000 I'm off on the third leg of my journey. 253 00:18:27,000 --> 00:18:32,440 Today I'm following my Bradshaw's Railway Guide from Bath to Bristol, just 12 miles away. 254 00:18:37,400 --> 00:18:40,920 These days, it's easy to plan your route by train, 255 00:18:40,920 --> 00:18:45,040 but when Bradshaw was first writing, there was a real difficulty. 256 00:18:46,600 --> 00:18:50,600 If this were before 1840, I would now be resetting my watch, 257 00:18:50,600 --> 00:18:57,320 because the time in Bristol is 10 minutes different from London, being that much further west. 258 00:18:57,320 --> 00:19:01,680 For Brunel, with his fast-moving steam trains, this was a real problem. 259 00:19:01,680 --> 00:19:05,120 How do you create a timetable when every city is on a different time? 260 00:19:05,120 --> 00:19:08,720 And so he introduced a standardised time, railway time, 261 00:19:08,720 --> 00:19:12,800 so that notionally the time in Bristol and London would be the same. 262 00:19:12,800 --> 00:19:16,800 The origins of the time zones that we have today. 263 00:19:18,480 --> 00:19:26,360 Bradshaw used railway time, also known as London time, when compiling his timetables in the 1840s. 264 00:19:26,360 --> 00:19:32,480 He convinced all the other railway companies to follow suit. 265 00:19:32,480 --> 00:19:37,480 Within 10 years, the whole country was in a single time zone. 266 00:19:37,480 --> 00:19:40,520 Bristol Temple Meads is a fantastic station. 267 00:19:40,520 --> 00:19:46,120 It's got this enormous span. It's classic Victorian railway architecture. 268 00:19:46,120 --> 00:19:49,600 You see it all over Britain. You see it all over the world, really. 269 00:19:49,600 --> 00:19:52,160 But this isn't the original station at Bristol. 270 00:19:52,160 --> 00:19:55,400 Brunel's terminus, the one Bradshaw would have arrived at 271 00:19:55,400 --> 00:19:58,640 and the model for many future designs, is just next door. 272 00:19:58,640 --> 00:20:00,720 I can't believe this. 273 00:20:00,720 --> 00:20:07,560 One of the great wonders of railway architecture, of historic railway architecture, 274 00:20:07,560 --> 00:20:11,760 is behind this really unimpressive door. 275 00:20:17,640 --> 00:20:20,560 And just look at this. 276 00:20:20,560 --> 00:20:24,200 Built in the 1830s. This enormous span. 277 00:20:24,200 --> 00:20:29,040 This was technology beyond belief, to build a span like this. 278 00:20:29,040 --> 00:20:36,960 The first time that passengers and trains had been put together under a single roof, under a single shed. 279 00:20:36,960 --> 00:20:42,360 'The design, known as hammer beam, is supported by beams on each side rather than pillars. 280 00:20:42,360 --> 00:20:50,000 'That leaves the floor space clear to allow for the free flow of crowds and, in this case, trains.' 281 00:20:50,000 --> 00:20:56,160 It's quite funny for me, because apparently this is the widest hammer-beamed roof in the world. 282 00:20:56,160 --> 00:20:59,320 But I'd always been told the widest one was in Parliament, 283 00:20:59,320 --> 00:21:03,640 and actually it does look like the roof in the Westminster Hall in Parliament. 284 00:21:03,640 --> 00:21:05,280 It's built in the same manner. 285 00:21:05,280 --> 00:21:10,160 You can see where the trains would come in and where people would stand on the platform. 286 00:21:10,160 --> 00:21:14,320 They had to climb down from the platform and wander across to the other lines. 287 00:21:14,320 --> 00:21:17,120 You didn't get a platform for every train. 288 00:21:17,120 --> 00:21:20,000 It's an absolutely fantastic piece of architecture. 289 00:21:20,000 --> 00:21:21,600 But nobody gets to see it. 290 00:21:23,240 --> 00:21:26,400 Brunel's passenger shed is the oldest surviving 291 00:21:26,400 --> 00:21:30,480 railway terminus in the world, but now it's sadly neglected. 292 00:21:30,480 --> 00:21:35,520 I'm looking at the front of Brunel's engine shed 293 00:21:35,520 --> 00:21:39,480 and it was clearly once a terrific facade. 294 00:21:39,480 --> 00:21:41,200 It's, of course, fake Gothic. 295 00:21:41,200 --> 00:21:45,160 But the building has completely gone to pot. 296 00:21:45,160 --> 00:21:49,160 It's like seeing an old relative in an old people's home or something 297 00:21:49,160 --> 00:21:53,040 It's really sad, abandoned, neglected. 298 00:21:53,040 --> 00:21:55,760 I don't suppose anybody ever gives it a second look. 299 00:21:55,760 --> 00:22:00,920 And yet it's a really important piece of national heritage. 300 00:22:00,920 --> 00:22:03,000 Very upsetting. 301 00:22:06,120 --> 00:22:13,440 The Bristol of my 1860s guidebook was a global city with trade links throughout the Empire. 302 00:22:13,440 --> 00:22:17,040 Goods made here were exported from the man-made inland docks 303 00:22:17,040 --> 00:22:21,240 as far afield as North America and the West Indies. 304 00:22:21,240 --> 00:22:24,920 So, Bristol was clearly a very important port 305 00:22:24,920 --> 00:22:29,320 but Bradshaw also lists, as he always does for cities, 306 00:22:29,320 --> 00:22:31,120 what was made here. 307 00:22:31,120 --> 00:22:35,080 And Bristol, obviously, was quite important in manufacturing 308 00:22:35,080 --> 00:22:43,000 "The chief manufacturers..." it says, "..are engines, glass, hats, pottery, soap and brushes." 309 00:22:43,000 --> 00:22:46,600 Well, most of those industries have gone by now. Long since gone. 310 00:22:48,440 --> 00:22:50,400 One trade, though, has been revived. 311 00:22:50,400 --> 00:22:54,640 Bristol blue glass. 312 00:22:54,640 --> 00:22:57,480 James? Hello. I'm Michael. 313 00:22:57,480 --> 00:23:02,880 'James Adlington and his family started their blue glass company 20 years ago 314 00:23:02,880 --> 00:23:05,160 'in a bid to bring back the lost art.' 315 00:23:05,160 --> 00:23:09,320 Why is Bristol associated with blue glass? 316 00:23:09,320 --> 00:23:12,440 William Cookworthy discovered cobalt in Germany, 317 00:23:12,440 --> 00:23:16,120 and the Bristol Merchant Venturers bought the monopoly on the cobalt. 318 00:23:16,120 --> 00:23:21,400 And one of the class makers grabbed some cobalt and threw it into the lead glass. With a great result. 319 00:23:21,400 --> 00:23:23,920 With a great result - a really vibrant blue. 320 00:23:23,920 --> 00:23:27,680 And these are what? These are rolling pins. They're friggers. 321 00:23:27,680 --> 00:23:31,600 They'd sell them to the sailors who were going off in the ships 322 00:23:31,600 --> 00:23:35,560 They would give them to their wives who would hang them in the window. 323 00:23:35,560 --> 00:23:39,440 A lucky charm? A lucky charm to make sure they'd come back safely. 324 00:23:39,440 --> 00:23:42,440 And this stuff is still blown, is it? Yes. 325 00:23:42,440 --> 00:23:44,480 Do you mind if I have a look? Of course. 326 00:23:46,040 --> 00:23:50,440 'It can take up to seven years to learn how to make glass as the Victorians did, 327 00:23:50,440 --> 00:23:53,800 'so James is showing me how to make a simple tumbler.' 328 00:23:56,080 --> 00:24:00,120 You go and sit down and I'll bring that back to you. Pick up your tools again. 329 00:24:00,120 --> 00:24:03,640 Which one? This one? Yes. That's it. 330 00:24:03,640 --> 00:24:06,800 'The furnaces reach volcanic temperatures. 331 00:24:06,800 --> 00:24:11,480 'They're used to make the molten glass, which can then be gathered onto the blowpipe.' 332 00:24:11,480 --> 00:24:12,600 A good, hard blow. 333 00:24:15,000 --> 00:24:17,080 That's it. Sorry about that. 334 00:24:17,080 --> 00:24:18,760 Don't put it all in there. 335 00:24:18,760 --> 00:24:21,080 Just let it...get it on to the pick. 336 00:24:21,080 --> 00:24:24,320 And let it fall on centre again. 337 00:24:25,920 --> 00:24:26,960 Voila. 338 00:24:28,200 --> 00:24:34,520 So I put it into an oven until about 5 o'clock tonight when it gets turned off 339 00:24:34,520 --> 00:24:37,000 and it's allowed to cool down overnight. 340 00:24:37,000 --> 00:24:39,800 What would happen if the glass cooled immediately? 341 00:24:39,800 --> 00:24:44,200 If you just left it on the side, it would just crack. Would it? Yeah. 342 00:24:44,200 --> 00:24:48,320 The cooling process would be too brutal for it. I really enjoyed that. 343 00:24:48,320 --> 00:24:50,880 Thank you very much. I'm very, very impressed. 344 00:24:50,880 --> 00:24:53,120 I've got to be honest, I really am. 345 00:24:53,120 --> 00:24:55,280 Truly impressed. 346 00:24:58,440 --> 00:25:02,720 In Bradshaw's time, it wasn't just glass passing through the docks 347 00:25:02,720 --> 00:25:04,960 Working with the Great Western Railway, 348 00:25:04,960 --> 00:25:08,720 Brunel developed an integrated international travel service. 349 00:25:10,040 --> 00:25:15,760 Passengers could take the train from London to Bristol, then continue to New York on the company's steamship, 350 00:25:15,760 --> 00:25:19,800 the SS Great Britain, also designed by him. 351 00:25:21,840 --> 00:25:26,360 Hi, you're Tom? Yes. Good to see you. How are you? Very good, thanks. 352 00:25:26,360 --> 00:25:30,960 'Ferry operator Tom Axon is taking me to see it.' 353 00:25:30,960 --> 00:25:33,520 How far is it from Temple Meads station to the dock 354 00:25:33,520 --> 00:25:36,520 from which the transatlantic steamers would have left? 355 00:25:36,520 --> 00:25:41,720 Well, there's just over a mile to where the SS Great Britain was built. 356 00:25:43,760 --> 00:25:50,680 In 1843, the SS Great Britain was constructed in the dockyards of the Great Western Railway. 357 00:25:50,680 --> 00:25:56,120 Brunel's design was the first steam-powered ship in the world. 358 00:25:56,120 --> 00:26:03,600 He persuaded the bosses to invest in a super ship made out of wrought iron to cross the ocean. 359 00:26:03,600 --> 00:26:05,560 That was unheard of. 360 00:26:05,560 --> 00:26:09,000 Are we going to see the SS Great Britain in a moment? That's it there. 361 00:26:11,000 --> 00:26:15,440 'The SS Great Britain was built for the transatlantic luxury passenger trade, 362 00:26:15,440 --> 00:26:20,640 'carrying just 252 travellers in first and second class. 363 00:26:20,640 --> 00:26:23,040 'But the service didn't make money. 364 00:26:23,040 --> 00:26:30,080 'She was eventually converted to carry three times that number on emigrant runs to Australia.' 365 00:26:30,080 --> 00:26:33,800 So the SS Great Britain, it's an iron-built ship, it's got propellers, 366 00:26:33,800 --> 00:26:37,080 but it's also got six masts. Why? For efficiency. 367 00:26:37,080 --> 00:26:41,640 If there's a high wind blowing, you need to harness that as well. 368 00:26:41,640 --> 00:26:45,000 Because it wouldn't be able to get to Australia from Britain... 369 00:26:45,000 --> 00:26:46,920 With the fuel. ..with its own power. 370 00:26:46,920 --> 00:26:50,400 So it's a hybrid. It's what we'd call a hybrid today. 371 00:26:50,400 --> 00:26:56,240 It uses carbon fuels and it uses natural resources as well. Yes. 372 00:26:56,240 --> 00:27:01,240 Thank you very much indeed. It's been a pleasure. A real pleasure for me, thank you. Bye. 373 00:27:04,400 --> 00:27:10,400 Seeing the scale of industry here is a reminder of what an important port Bristol was. 374 00:27:10,400 --> 00:27:15,560 Up until the late 19th century, the city had routes to India, the Americas and Australia. 375 00:27:15,560 --> 00:27:18,840 I'm really impressed by the Victorians' ambition, 376 00:27:18,840 --> 00:27:23,280 with their vast stations and steamships and exports to the world. 377 00:27:23,280 --> 00:27:25,040 But when Bradshaw was writing, 378 00:27:25,040 --> 00:27:27,320 the British Empire was near its peak. 379 00:27:27,320 --> 00:27:29,760 Much of the world map was coloured pink. 380 00:27:29,760 --> 00:27:32,600 No wonder the Victorians thought globally. 381 00:27:37,360 --> 00:27:42,840 Bradshaw's handbooks documented a new era in British travel. 382 00:27:42,840 --> 00:27:47,000 The infrastructure built by the Victorians we still use massively today, 383 00:27:47,000 --> 00:27:53,840 but the position that they gave Britain in the world has slipped away gradually in the decades since. 384 00:27:56,240 --> 00:28:00,840 Tomorrow, I'll be finding out how the railways created a national delicacy. 385 00:28:00,840 --> 00:28:04,600 The train was perfect. You put a strawberry on there and it was so smooth, 386 00:28:04,600 --> 00:28:09,000 it would go all the way to the North without being damaged. 387 00:28:09,000 --> 00:28:12,160 I'll be asking what our ancestors got up to in Cheddar. 388 00:28:12,160 --> 00:28:14,920 The bones of three adults and two children 389 00:28:14,920 --> 00:28:19,320 with cut marks to drop the jaw out is all evidence of cannibalism. 390 00:28:19,320 --> 00:28:23,480 And I'll be exploring one of Britain's oldest piers. 391 00:28:23,480 --> 00:28:28,920 The other thing, of course, with piers in their early days was it was somewhere you could promenade. 392 00:28:28,920 --> 00:28:31,280 In other words, you could be seen. 393 00:28:53,680 --> 00:28:56,760 Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd 394 00:28:56,760 --> 00:28:59,720 E-mail subtitling@bbc.co.uk