1 00:00:04,040 --> 00:00:08,680 In 1840, one man transformed travel in Britain. 2 00:00:10,360 --> 00:00:16,680 His name was George Bradshaw and his railway guides inspired the Victorians to take to the tracks 3 00:00:16,680 --> 00:00:22,000 Stop by stop, he told them where to travel, what to see and where to stay. 4 00:00:22,000 --> 00:00:27,880 Now, 170 years later, I'm making four long journeys across the length 5 00:00:27,880 --> 00:00:33,760 and breadth of the country to see what remains of Bradshaw's Britain. 6 00:00:55,640 --> 00:00:59,320 I'm continuing my rail journey into the West Country, 7 00:00:59,320 --> 00:01:02,400 using this 150-year-old Bradshaw's Guide. 8 00:01:02,400 --> 00:01:07,080 The arrival of the Great Western Railway made it easy for tourists to visit 9 00:01:07,080 --> 00:01:14,080 resorts like Weston-super-Mare, and the guide commends the mildness of the climate in these parts. 10 00:01:14,080 --> 00:01:17,520 But I'm also hoping to discover how the combination of railways 11 00:01:17,520 --> 00:01:20,160 and good weather enabled Somerset 12 00:01:20,160 --> 00:01:24,400 to export a little bit of sunshine to the rest of Britain. 13 00:01:26,120 --> 00:01:30,840 All this week, it's helping me plot my journey along the holiday route, 14 00:01:30,840 --> 00:01:35,000 the Great Western Railway line reaching down to the South West of England. 15 00:01:37,280 --> 00:01:41,720 Today, I'll be finding out how the railways created a national delicacy. 16 00:01:41,720 --> 00:01:45,440 The train was perfect. You could put a strawberry on there and it was so smooth. 17 00:01:45,440 --> 00:01:49,880 It would go all the way to the north without being damaged. 18 00:01:49,880 --> 00:01:52,960 I'll be asking what our ancestors got up to in Cheddar. 19 00:01:52,960 --> 00:01:56,800 The bones of three adults and two children with cut marks, 20 00:01:56,800 --> 00:02:00,200 to drop the jaw out, is all evidence of cannibalism. 21 00:02:00,200 --> 00:02:04,320 And I'll be exploring one of Britain's oldest piers. 22 00:02:04,320 --> 00:02:09,800 The other thing with piers in their early days was that it was somewhere where you could promenade. 23 00:02:09,800 --> 00:02:12,200 In other words, you could be seen. 24 00:02:12,200 --> 00:02:16,480 My journey this week takes me from Swindon to find out 25 00:02:16,480 --> 00:02:20,320 how the railway transformed many small coastal villages 26 00:02:20,320 --> 00:02:22,560 into bustling seaside resorts. 27 00:02:22,560 --> 00:02:26,120 After passing through Devon, I'll head for Cornwall 28 00:02:26,120 --> 00:02:29,680 and end my journey on the rugged headland of Penzance. 29 00:02:32,760 --> 00:02:36,920 Today, I'm leaving Bristol and travelling 18 miles to Yatton 30 00:02:36,920 --> 00:02:40,440 and the Cheddar Gorge before reaching Weston-super-Mare. 31 00:02:46,000 --> 00:02:49,760 The Great Western Railway main line takes me into Somerset, 32 00:02:49,760 --> 00:02:52,400 which changed forever when the railways arrived. 33 00:02:55,520 --> 00:02:57,360 This is Yatton. 34 00:02:57,360 --> 00:03:00,480 A nice enough station, but my Bradshaw's Guide dismisses it 35 00:03:00,480 --> 00:03:04,480 as a place of no importance except as being a junction. 36 00:03:04,480 --> 00:03:06,840 What wasn't known when this was written 37 00:03:06,840 --> 00:03:09,360 was that in 1869, a new line would be added here 38 00:03:09,360 --> 00:03:13,680 which would make Yatton really rather important after all. 39 00:03:16,800 --> 00:03:21,080 When the new branch line was opened, Yatton became the centre of a 40 00:03:21,080 --> 00:03:25,800 booming strawberry industry which continued right up to the 1950s. 41 00:03:28,120 --> 00:03:31,360 Mike Lyle started working on the trains in his teens. 42 00:03:31,360 --> 00:03:34,440 Good morning, Mike. Good morning, Michael. 43 00:03:34,440 --> 00:03:37,240 Thank you for meeting me. Not at all. 44 00:03:37,240 --> 00:03:39,960 I think you know Yatton station quite well, don't you? 45 00:03:39,960 --> 00:03:43,440 Yes, I came here as a boy at the age of 46 00:03:43,440 --> 00:03:49,080 approximately 15... and it really was a hive of industry. 47 00:03:54,080 --> 00:03:56,560 The new railway meant that, for the first time, 48 00:03:56,560 --> 00:03:59,680 huge quantities of fresh local Cheddar Valley strawberries 49 00:03:59,680 --> 00:04:01,800 could be whisked around the country. 50 00:04:01,800 --> 00:04:05,800 It was quickly nicknamed the strawberry line. 51 00:04:05,800 --> 00:04:13,080 I was invited to go down, load fruit onto these massive great wagons - they were called siphons - 52 00:04:13,080 --> 00:04:19,960 and I suppose, if my memory is correct, they were about the length of two double-decker buses. 53 00:04:19,960 --> 00:04:25,080 We would load all the trains through the afternoon and evening. 54 00:04:25,080 --> 00:04:30,120 The smell of the strawberries was absolutely overwhelming. 55 00:04:30,120 --> 00:04:36,440 I would catch the last strawberry train back to a station which was handy for me to cycle home, 56 00:04:36,440 --> 00:04:38,480 and then I would throw my bike out 57 00:04:38,480 --> 00:04:43,120 and I would follow the bicycle out of the guard's van and then cycle home. 58 00:04:43,120 --> 00:04:46,200 You and your bike were both leaving a moving train? 59 00:04:46,200 --> 00:04:48,680 Yes. Every minute counted. 60 00:04:48,680 --> 00:04:50,440 Every single minute counted. 61 00:04:50,440 --> 00:04:52,440 If it lost its connection, 62 00:04:52,440 --> 00:04:56,240 then the fruit wouldn't be in any shape or form 63 00:04:56,240 --> 00:04:58,600 to be eaten at the other end. 64 00:04:58,600 --> 00:05:02,640 With the industry in decline, the strawberry line and its workers 65 00:05:02,640 --> 00:05:04,800 became the victims of the massive 66 00:05:04,800 --> 00:05:07,480 British Railways closures in the 1960s. 67 00:05:07,480 --> 00:05:10,920 When you heard that branch line was closing, what did you feel? 68 00:05:10,920 --> 00:05:13,040 I wondered what I was going to do. 69 00:05:13,040 --> 00:05:14,600 It was quite shocking news. 70 00:05:14,600 --> 00:05:16,200 It was national news. 71 00:05:16,200 --> 00:05:22,320 It affected every branch line and I was quite in despair at the time. 72 00:05:30,960 --> 00:05:35,000 50 years on, many of the disused lines have become footpaths 73 00:05:35,000 --> 00:05:37,800 crisscrossing Britain's countryside. 74 00:05:37,800 --> 00:05:41,760 So I'll be continuing the next part of my journey on foot. 75 00:05:41,760 --> 00:05:45,680 Good morning. I see you're walking the strawberry line. I am. 76 00:05:45,680 --> 00:05:49,200 Do you think it's a good way to see country, walking along an old railway line? Definitely. 77 00:05:49,200 --> 00:05:53,440 You see them dotted around when you're driving around and they're normally banked up, 78 00:05:53,440 --> 00:05:56,880 nice and flat, easy to walk on, easy to cycle on, so, yeah. 79 00:05:56,880 --> 00:06:01,840 And it gets you really in touch with the greenery and the country, doesn't it? Plenty to see. 80 00:06:01,840 --> 00:06:04,320 Lots of birds around, wildlife. 81 00:06:04,320 --> 00:06:05,760 It's good, yeah. 82 00:06:11,320 --> 00:06:15,120 There's always something sad about a disused railway line, 83 00:06:15,120 --> 00:06:21,000 and I'm old enough to remember tracks that I used to use being closed in the Beeching cuts. 84 00:06:21,000 --> 00:06:22,720 It was inevitable, I suppose. 85 00:06:22,720 --> 00:06:28,080 The railways grew topsy-turvy in a Victorian era when people didn't have cars. 86 00:06:28,080 --> 00:06:33,360 The cheery thing is that today we don't talk about lines closing but new ones opening, 87 00:06:33,360 --> 00:06:38,760 and there's a lot of talk that the future of travel is high-speed rail. 88 00:06:41,120 --> 00:06:46,880 But for today at least I'll be ambling to the other end of the strawberry line. 89 00:06:46,880 --> 00:06:51,760 In its heyday, there were 250 strawberry growers here. 90 00:06:51,760 --> 00:06:56,000 Only four remain today, including fruit farmer Andrew Seagers. 91 00:06:56,000 --> 00:06:57,920 Why are strawberries grown here? 92 00:06:57,920 --> 00:07:01,200 What's special about the land or the water here? 93 00:07:01,200 --> 00:07:05,920 I think it's because of the slopes of the Mendip Hills, the climate 94 00:07:05,920 --> 00:07:10,440 and the minerals in the water - it gives it a good flavour fruit. 95 00:07:10,440 --> 00:07:13,560 How long in the year are you getting strawberries? 96 00:07:13,560 --> 00:07:19,560 We start picking about 15th April and we will finish in that greenhouse 97 00:07:19,560 --> 00:07:24,080 again with another crop of strawberries by 15th November. 98 00:07:24,080 --> 00:07:26,720 That's a pretty long season you have now. 99 00:07:26,720 --> 00:07:30,560 I imagine that's much more than would have been 100 years ago. 100 00:07:30,560 --> 00:07:35,040 Yes, we would be lucky to get probably more than four weeks, five weeks. 101 00:07:36,080 --> 00:07:40,560 Now, we take it for granted that we can eat strawberries all year round. 102 00:07:40,560 --> 00:07:44,120 But in Bradshaw's time, strawberries were a special seasonal delicacy. 103 00:07:44,120 --> 00:07:47,480 For a few weeks of the year, they were picked and transported 104 00:07:47,480 --> 00:07:52,040 to market each Friday, the day after people were paid. 105 00:07:52,040 --> 00:07:55,200 As we're moving down here, we're beginning to see 106 00:07:55,200 --> 00:07:59,000 some strawberries now that are getting towards ripeness. 107 00:07:59,000 --> 00:08:01,920 Do you mind if I try that one? No, course you can. 108 00:08:01,920 --> 00:08:05,120 Mm...beautiful. 109 00:08:05,120 --> 00:08:06,680 It's absolutely fabulous. 110 00:08:08,280 --> 00:08:11,520 There's just no substitute for taking it straight off the plant, is there? Mm-hm. 111 00:08:11,520 --> 00:08:15,160 I suppose the railways made it possible for this 112 00:08:15,160 --> 00:08:17,520 massive amount of strawberries to be grown in Britain. 113 00:08:17,520 --> 00:08:21,120 Yes. But I suppose it's the airlines now that are killing it off in Britain. 114 00:08:21,120 --> 00:08:27,600 Yes. What happened was, you could send a strawberry to anywhere in the North of England on a train, 115 00:08:27,600 --> 00:08:31,840 and the strawberries were much softer than these, so the train was perfect 116 00:08:31,840 --> 00:08:35,920 because you could put a strawberry on there and it was so smooth 117 00:08:35,920 --> 00:08:40,080 and it would go all the way to the north without being damaged. 118 00:08:41,920 --> 00:08:46,440 'The railways were pivotal for the strawberry growers, but they also 119 00:08:46,440 --> 00:08:49,160 'kick-started another Cheddar Valley industry - tourism.' 120 00:08:57,040 --> 00:09:00,200 Before the railways, only rich tourists would have been able to 121 00:09:00,200 --> 00:09:03,480 enjoy the wonderful spectacle of the Cheddar Gorge. 122 00:09:03,480 --> 00:09:07,000 When the railways arrived, thousands of ordinary day-trippers 123 00:09:07,000 --> 00:09:11,240 began to enjoy the splendour of this magnificent area. 124 00:09:11,240 --> 00:09:14,520 Reaching 500 feet in places, the sides of the ravine 125 00:09:14,520 --> 00:09:17,560 boast the highest inland cliffs in the country. 126 00:09:21,720 --> 00:09:26,440 My Bradshaw's Guide tells me that the cliffs of Cheddar are well worth visiting, 127 00:09:26,440 --> 00:09:32,200 and says the area has achieved "some notoriety from the discovery of two caverns in the vicinity, 128 00:09:32,200 --> 00:09:35,480 "one called the Stalactite and the other the Bone Cave." 129 00:09:35,480 --> 00:09:39,680 And it comments on the very large number of visitors now coming to the area. 130 00:09:39,680 --> 00:09:41,920 But no Victorian could have imagined 131 00:09:41,920 --> 00:09:44,440 the tourist magnet that it's become today. 132 00:09:49,320 --> 00:09:55,080 'Cheddar Gorge now attracts half a million visitors a year. 133 00:09:55,080 --> 00:09:58,680 'Many of them, like archaeologist Hugh Cornwell, come to marvel at the caves. 134 00:09:58,680 --> 00:10:04,800 'They were discovered by eccentric sea captain and showman Richard Gough.' 135 00:10:04,800 --> 00:10:10,480 Hugh, after my long trek, I find you. What a beautiful cave. 136 00:10:10,480 --> 00:10:15,440 When Richard Gough discovered this in November 1898, 137 00:10:15,440 --> 00:10:18,880 he came through the tunnel there and he saw this 138 00:10:18,880 --> 00:10:21,560 and he called it St Paul's Cathedral 139 00:10:21,560 --> 00:10:25,000 because of the whispering gallery at the top. 140 00:10:25,000 --> 00:10:28,640 And this is very pretty. This is almost too good to be true. 141 00:10:28,640 --> 00:10:30,520 This is a Richard Gough invention. 142 00:10:30,520 --> 00:10:32,360 It's a mirror pool. 143 00:10:32,360 --> 00:10:37,400 He's dammed the water, just a little skim of water, and you can see 144 00:10:37,400 --> 00:10:41,040 the stalactites reflected on the surface of the water. 145 00:10:41,040 --> 00:10:44,160 Do you approve of this manipulation of nature? 146 00:10:44,160 --> 00:10:50,400 Yes, I do. It's very low-intensity human interaction with it, 147 00:10:50,400 --> 00:10:54,240 and...Gough's reason was to show 148 00:10:54,240 --> 00:10:59,160 the amazing complexity and beauty of nature, and I think he's succeeded. 149 00:10:59,160 --> 00:11:01,800 Ah! I thought you'd be more disapproving. 150 00:11:01,800 --> 00:11:06,600 'The Victorians poured in to experience this underground labyrinth, 151 00:11:06,600 --> 00:11:09,880 'the first cave in Britain to be lit with electric light. 152 00:11:09,880 --> 00:11:13,400 'Before Gough turned them into a tourist attraction, 153 00:11:13,400 --> 00:11:16,200 'the caves had been home to something else.' 154 00:11:16,200 --> 00:11:20,400 You can probably guess from the smell that we've now arrived at the cheese cave. 155 00:11:20,400 --> 00:11:23,240 I'm glad you mentioned that, Hugh. I wondered if we had a problem! 156 00:11:23,240 --> 00:11:26,200 Now, the cheese is here. 157 00:11:26,200 --> 00:11:30,840 Is this a necessary part of its maturing process, or is this a kind of touristy thing? 158 00:11:30,840 --> 00:11:32,760 No, this is really genuine. 159 00:11:32,760 --> 00:11:35,040 These are truckles of cheese 160 00:11:35,040 --> 00:11:40,160 and they're the only really genuine Cheddar cheese in the entire world, 161 00:11:40,160 --> 00:11:44,720 because these cheeses are made from unpasteurised milk from 162 00:11:44,720 --> 00:11:48,080 cows on the Somerset Levels, very close to Cheddar. 163 00:11:48,080 --> 00:11:53,320 They're made by hand in the Cheddar Gorge Cheese Company in Cheddar 164 00:11:53,320 --> 00:11:56,480 and they are stored here in Gough's Cave, 165 00:11:56,480 --> 00:12:00,480 and this is genuine cave-matured Cheddar cheese. 166 00:12:00,480 --> 00:12:04,440 Oh, it sounds wonderful. I can't wait to get my hands on some. 167 00:12:05,520 --> 00:12:08,640 As more and more areas of the cave were opened up to cater 168 00:12:08,640 --> 00:12:12,800 for the tourists, some important archaeological discoveries were made. 169 00:12:12,800 --> 00:12:18,600 And this is Cheddar Man, 9,000 years old, the oldest complete skeleton ever found in Britain. 170 00:12:18,600 --> 00:12:21,000 That is a fantastic sight. 171 00:12:21,000 --> 00:12:24,880 This intact skeleton was found here, was it? Yes. 172 00:12:24,880 --> 00:12:30,080 'When the skeleton was studied in detail, it revealed an extraordinary life and death.' 173 00:12:30,080 --> 00:12:36,200 The story behind it, we believe, is that Cheddar Man as a teenager 174 00:12:36,200 --> 00:12:38,640 was hit in head with an axe, 175 00:12:38,640 --> 00:12:42,680 which created a major wound in his forehead. 176 00:12:42,680 --> 00:12:45,760 That probably affected him for the rest of his life, 177 00:12:45,760 --> 00:12:48,480 but he died, we believe, in his early 20s. 178 00:12:48,480 --> 00:12:53,280 And we think that, during that period, the effect of the blow 179 00:12:53,280 --> 00:12:57,200 to the head made him anti-social, dysfunctional, 180 00:12:57,200 --> 00:13:00,200 that sort of thing, so that when he died, 181 00:13:00,200 --> 00:13:05,480 the members of his tribe didn't deal with him in the normal way of burial 182 00:13:05,480 --> 00:13:08,040 but put him in a twilight zone here 183 00:13:08,040 --> 00:13:09,720 so that his spirit couldn't depart 184 00:13:09,720 --> 00:13:14,680 to the ancestors and couldn't roam amongst the living either. 185 00:13:14,680 --> 00:13:18,360 'Recent research has produced more sinister revelations 186 00:13:18,360 --> 00:13:21,080 'about the people who lived in these caves.' 187 00:13:21,080 --> 00:13:24,840 I hear there's evidence of cannibalism that's been discovered in these caves. 188 00:13:24,840 --> 00:13:29,240 Yes, that's true. The bones of three adults and two children with cut 189 00:13:29,240 --> 00:13:34,680 marks, to drop the jaw out, to get at the tongue and to invert the skull, 190 00:13:34,680 --> 00:13:40,920 and cut marks on the long bones and the breaking of long bones is all 191 00:13:40,920 --> 00:13:45,680 evidence of cannibalism and the bones are scattered across the cave floor 192 00:13:45,680 --> 00:13:47,480 and mixed with horse bones. 193 00:13:47,480 --> 00:13:52,360 So cannibalism did take place here, but long before Cheddar Man. 194 00:13:52,360 --> 00:13:55,240 I'm pleased to see people have turned from cannibalism 195 00:13:55,240 --> 00:13:59,120 to cheese-eating in this part of the world. This is only recent. Only recent! 196 00:14:03,960 --> 00:14:06,440 'The researchers also took DNA from Cheddar Man 197 00:14:06,440 --> 00:14:10,280 'to see if they could find any of his descendants in Cheddar today. 198 00:14:10,280 --> 00:14:12,800 'And guess what? They found a match.' 199 00:14:12,800 --> 00:14:14,400 Adrian. Good evening. 200 00:14:14,400 --> 00:14:16,400 Let me get a good look at you. 201 00:14:16,400 --> 00:14:20,360 Nice to meet you, Michael. Any resemblance to Cheddar Man? 202 00:14:20,360 --> 00:14:22,840 Probably vaguely. I can't see it exactly. 203 00:14:22,840 --> 00:14:25,360 Come on in. Thank you very much. 204 00:14:25,360 --> 00:14:28,840 'Local teacher Adrian Target was helping to organise 205 00:14:28,840 --> 00:14:32,200 'the experiment when he was also roped in to giving a sample.' 206 00:14:33,360 --> 00:14:37,880 So I was arranging to have my students' DNA tested and some of 207 00:14:37,880 --> 00:14:39,280 them were a bit apprehensive, 208 00:14:39,280 --> 00:14:42,920 and so I said, "It'll be OK. I'll show you there's nothing involved. 209 00:14:42,920 --> 00:14:44,600 "I'll have mine done as well." 210 00:14:44,600 --> 00:14:49,280 One of the things that they obviously wanted to know 211 00:14:49,280 --> 00:14:53,920 was how much like Cheddar Man I was, and so they did... 212 00:14:55,520 --> 00:15:01,640 ..a reconstruction of Cheddar Man's head based on what they had from the skeleton. 213 00:15:03,240 --> 00:15:05,400 Adrian, this is spooky! 214 00:15:06,440 --> 00:15:08,480 Such a strong resemblance. 215 00:15:08,480 --> 00:15:11,440 I mean, obviously you don't wear your hair the same way 216 00:15:11,440 --> 00:15:13,840 they did 9,000 years ago, but otherwise... 217 00:15:13,840 --> 00:15:17,760 It's always other people who can see the resemblance, isn't it? 218 00:15:17,760 --> 00:15:21,880 'Almost as bizarre is Adrian's other secret.' 219 00:15:21,880 --> 00:15:23,600 You know who this is, don't you? 220 00:15:23,600 --> 00:15:27,320 Yes, it's a Bradshaw Handbook, a Bradshaw Guide. 221 00:15:27,320 --> 00:15:30,040 And how do you know that? 222 00:15:30,040 --> 00:15:33,680 Probably because I'm a railway nut, I suppose, 223 00:15:33,680 --> 00:15:38,000 a bit of an anorak, and I've collected mainly the timetables 224 00:15:38,000 --> 00:15:39,760 rather than the guides. 225 00:15:39,760 --> 00:15:42,000 Adrian, that is to be a serious anorak 226 00:15:42,000 --> 00:15:45,840 to collect the timetables of trains that ran 150 years ago. 227 00:15:45,840 --> 00:15:49,200 Yes, I suppose so. Sherlock Holmes always had a Bradshaw 228 00:15:49,200 --> 00:15:50,800 to the left of his fireplace. 229 00:15:50,800 --> 00:15:53,200 Well, I do have some just here. 230 00:15:55,560 --> 00:16:00,080 'I suppose it was only a matter of time before I met another Bradshaw enthusiast. 231 00:16:00,080 --> 00:16:05,280 'It wasn't long ago that they were an essential item for every train traveller.' 232 00:16:05,280 --> 00:16:08,680 Must give you a lot of interesting bedtime reading, that. 233 00:16:08,680 --> 00:16:10,320 Thank you. That's lovely. 234 00:16:14,360 --> 00:16:17,120 'It's almost time to leave Cheddar, 235 00:16:17,120 --> 00:16:21,760 'but there's one thing I need to try before I go.' Good evening. 236 00:16:21,760 --> 00:16:24,920 Oh, that looks serious! 237 00:16:24,920 --> 00:16:26,480 Are these all from Cheddar? 238 00:16:26,480 --> 00:16:29,280 They are all from Cheddar. This is the one from the caves? 239 00:16:29,280 --> 00:16:32,720 It is indeed. That's the one I have to try. 240 00:16:33,880 --> 00:16:36,240 Lovely big taste. 241 00:16:36,240 --> 00:16:38,360 Mmm, really mature and... 242 00:16:40,120 --> 00:16:42,320 ..fresh and tangy. 243 00:16:42,320 --> 00:16:45,240 Thank you so much. I'm glad you're enjoying it. 244 00:16:49,560 --> 00:16:50,960 'Early next morning, 245 00:16:50,960 --> 00:16:55,200 'I'm ready to pop along the coast to Weston-super-Mare.' Morning. 246 00:16:55,200 --> 00:16:56,720 Morning. 247 00:16:59,840 --> 00:17:01,280 Morning. 248 00:17:04,040 --> 00:17:07,800 Running on time on a Sunday morning. That's very good. Yeah, we try to. 249 00:17:10,240 --> 00:17:16,080 The building of the Great Western Railway made it possible for there to be long-distance tourism, 250 00:17:16,080 --> 00:17:20,840 like railway workers from Swindon spending a week by the seaside in Devon. 251 00:17:20,840 --> 00:17:26,000 But it also led to growth of day-tripping and weekend visits, so that people from 252 00:17:26,000 --> 00:17:31,040 Bristol and Exeter could spend time by the sea in the Bristol Channel. 253 00:17:34,920 --> 00:17:38,800 Weston-super-Mare, perhaps above all other seaside resorts, 254 00:17:38,800 --> 00:17:40,960 grew rapidly thanks to the railway. 255 00:17:40,960 --> 00:17:46,600 In 1822, it had a population of just 735. 256 00:17:46,600 --> 00:17:50,840 By the end of the century, it had shot up to over 20,000. 257 00:17:54,120 --> 00:17:59,160 'Clearly, they weren't put off by what Bradshaw had to say.' 258 00:17:59,160 --> 00:18:01,320 Weston-super-Mare. 259 00:18:01,320 --> 00:18:05,320 My Bradshaw's Guide is not entirely polite about Weston-Super-Mare, 260 00:18:05,320 --> 00:18:07,480 so I'm intrigued to see what I'm going to find. 261 00:18:10,680 --> 00:18:14,040 Bradshaw writes that, "The receding of the tide leaves 262 00:18:14,040 --> 00:18:16,680 "a disfiguring bank of mud along the beach, 263 00:18:16,680 --> 00:18:20,520 "which is a great drawback to the enjoyment of bathing". 264 00:18:20,520 --> 00:18:25,360 It says about Weston-Super-Mare, at low tide Weston is disfigured by this bank of mud. 265 00:18:25,360 --> 00:18:28,280 What do you think of that? I think it's right. 266 00:18:28,280 --> 00:18:29,840 Do you think that is a bit disfiguring? 267 00:18:29,840 --> 00:18:31,760 I think it's the stones and stuff. 268 00:18:31,760 --> 00:18:33,480 Do you not like that so much? 269 00:18:33,480 --> 00:18:35,480 It can look very dirty and polluted, 270 00:18:35,480 --> 00:18:39,440 but today it actually doesn't look that polluted, but sometimes it does. 271 00:18:39,440 --> 00:18:41,360 Good afternoon. Hello. 272 00:18:41,360 --> 00:18:44,520 Are you visiting Weston-super-Mare or do you live here? We live here. 273 00:18:44,520 --> 00:18:50,360 I'm following a very old guidebook, 150 years old, and he makes what I think is a rather catty comment. 274 00:18:50,360 --> 00:18:53,200 He says the best reason to stay a long time in Weston-super-Mare 275 00:18:53,200 --> 00:18:55,960 is because of the attractive places around it. 276 00:18:55,960 --> 00:18:58,320 What do you think of that? Do you think that's a bit unfair? 277 00:18:58,320 --> 00:19:01,520 Well... Yeah, the Weston-super-Mare central is lovely. 278 00:19:01,520 --> 00:19:03,680 I thought you'd say that. 279 00:19:03,680 --> 00:19:07,080 And the other thing he says is that he thinks 280 00:19:07,080 --> 00:19:11,280 the bank of mud that's left at low tide is disfiguring. 281 00:19:11,280 --> 00:19:15,160 Would you use that word? No, it's a natural thing, surely. 282 00:19:15,160 --> 00:19:19,280 You can't have lovely Cornwall beaches everywhere, can you? 283 00:19:19,280 --> 00:19:24,480 And if it's a natural thing, you shouldn't call it disfiguring? No, course not. It's part of Weston. 284 00:19:24,480 --> 00:19:28,160 Everybody knows it's like that down here but everybody still comes down here. 285 00:19:28,160 --> 00:19:30,000 You really are loyal to your town. 286 00:19:33,880 --> 00:19:40,360 At least Bradshaw is more positive about one local attraction, Birnbeck Pier. 287 00:19:40,360 --> 00:19:44,280 He says, "The bay sweeps a flat sandy beach to Worle Hill, 288 00:19:44,280 --> 00:19:48,560 "having beyond it the Rock, or island of Birnbeck, across which 289 00:19:48,560 --> 00:19:52,520 "a new pier has been made with a landing stage for steamers." 290 00:19:54,360 --> 00:19:57,480 The pier was still bustling 50 years ago. 291 00:19:57,480 --> 00:20:01,280 But severe damage from storms in 1990 made it unsafe 292 00:20:01,280 --> 00:20:04,120 and it was closed to the public in 1994. 293 00:20:05,960 --> 00:20:09,000 The only way to appreciate it is by water. 294 00:20:09,000 --> 00:20:13,840 'So I've tagged along with the RNLI, who used to have a base on the pier. 295 00:20:13,840 --> 00:20:17,680 'Nigel is one of 24 local volunteers.' 296 00:20:17,680 --> 00:20:20,920 You've got an RNLI slipway there. 297 00:20:20,920 --> 00:20:23,440 You use that sometimes? We don't any more. 298 00:20:23,440 --> 00:20:29,480 That got condemned a while back, just falling into disrepair, really. 299 00:20:29,480 --> 00:20:32,920 So we now operate on the north side, using a new method 300 00:20:32,920 --> 00:20:36,680 with tractors and trailers launching on a shingle beach. 301 00:20:36,680 --> 00:20:39,840 Does it make you sad to see it in this dilapidated condition? 302 00:20:39,840 --> 00:20:42,480 It does, yes. It's quite an old pier. 303 00:20:42,480 --> 00:20:45,640 I just about remember it from when I was a wee lad. 304 00:20:45,640 --> 00:20:48,880 And to see it like it is now is devastating, really. 305 00:20:50,000 --> 00:20:53,840 But my visit to the pier is cut short by a real emergency. 306 00:20:53,840 --> 00:20:57,720 You have to get the guys back on here. They want number two. 307 00:20:59,960 --> 00:21:01,000 Thank you. 308 00:21:01,000 --> 00:21:03,720 Swansea Coastguard from Weston... 309 00:21:03,720 --> 00:21:05,800 There I was...er... 310 00:21:05,800 --> 00:21:08,600 out in lifeboat number one 311 00:21:08,600 --> 00:21:13,160 and a call came through. 312 00:21:13,160 --> 00:21:16,040 Luckily, we had lifeboat number two alongside us, 313 00:21:16,040 --> 00:21:18,400 but they have been called to an emergency. 314 00:21:18,400 --> 00:21:21,080 Somebody is drifting in a raft. 315 00:21:21,080 --> 00:21:24,800 It's quite a long-distance job, so they've got to take the bigger craft 316 00:21:24,800 --> 00:21:27,800 and luckily we had the smaller boat alongside. 317 00:21:29,360 --> 00:21:32,680 Hello. Hi, Michael. Welcome aboard number two. 318 00:21:32,680 --> 00:21:35,120 Thank you very much indeed. Thank you, guys. 319 00:21:35,120 --> 00:21:39,440 'With all that excitement, I'm glad to get my feet back on dry land.' 320 00:21:39,440 --> 00:21:41,240 That was great. Thank you very much indeed. 321 00:21:41,240 --> 00:21:43,440 Take it easy. Bye. Thank you. 322 00:21:48,080 --> 00:21:52,400 This old pier may be very down on its luck today, but it was still 323 00:21:52,400 --> 00:21:55,960 a massive tourist attraction until the late 1950s. 324 00:21:57,560 --> 00:22:01,320 Pier archivist Stan Terrell remembers how popular it was 325 00:22:01,320 --> 00:22:03,600 and has traced its history back to Bradshaw's day. 326 00:22:05,840 --> 00:22:09,520 Stan, why do you think the Victorians were so crazy about piers? 327 00:22:09,520 --> 00:22:14,320 The very fact that they so enjoyed going on boats, but with a pier 328 00:22:14,320 --> 00:22:18,520 you could be on a boat as it were, and you felt safe. 329 00:22:18,520 --> 00:22:20,320 You had the water underneath you. 330 00:22:20,320 --> 00:22:22,040 I think they loved that. 331 00:22:22,040 --> 00:22:26,520 The other thing of course with piers, especially in their 332 00:22:26,520 --> 00:22:29,280 early days, was that it was somewhere where you could promenade. 333 00:22:29,280 --> 00:22:33,480 In other words, you could be seen and you could see others. 334 00:22:35,080 --> 00:22:38,360 One of the reasons the pier was such a hit was that it was the 335 00:22:38,360 --> 00:22:43,000 nearest spot for Welsh people to get a drink on Sundays. 336 00:22:43,000 --> 00:22:48,760 Cardiff tourists poured in from the steamers into the bars on the first "booze cruises". 337 00:22:48,760 --> 00:22:53,000 Paint a picture for me. At the height of the Victorian era, people arriving by steamers. 338 00:22:53,000 --> 00:22:55,280 What would it have been like on the pier? 339 00:22:55,280 --> 00:22:56,960 Bags of excitement, I guess. 340 00:22:56,960 --> 00:23:01,400 As many as 13 steamers queuing up to discharge their passengers. 341 00:23:01,400 --> 00:23:04,880 When they would have eventually got on the island, 342 00:23:04,880 --> 00:23:08,640 enjoying themselves with all the amusements, the helter-skelter. 343 00:23:08,640 --> 00:23:12,800 I've heard it said the town business people didn't like it really, 344 00:23:12,800 --> 00:23:16,040 because all the business was coming into the old pier 345 00:23:16,040 --> 00:23:18,720 and very little of that came into the town. 346 00:23:18,720 --> 00:23:22,960 Stan, one history of the pier is about pleasure and steamers. 347 00:23:22,960 --> 00:23:26,760 Another history of the pier is to do with warfare. Is that right? 348 00:23:26,760 --> 00:23:34,920 Quite correct. In 1942, the Admiralty took this pier over. 349 00:23:34,920 --> 00:23:40,040 It became then known as HMS Birnbeck, and they staffed it with scientists. 350 00:23:40,040 --> 00:23:42,560 They developed the bouncing bomb, 351 00:23:42,560 --> 00:23:48,240 but it was only the theoretical work that was done in that instance. 352 00:23:48,240 --> 00:23:49,800 I have to stop you there. 353 00:23:49,800 --> 00:23:54,120 You're telling me that the bouncing bomb was developed on a pier? 354 00:23:54,120 --> 00:23:59,200 Yes, it was. The idea apparently for choosing the pier 355 00:23:59,200 --> 00:24:02,560 to put their scientists on was that, first of all, 356 00:24:02,560 --> 00:24:07,200 you've probably noticed how secluded we are, away from prying eyes. 357 00:24:07,200 --> 00:24:11,400 And secondly, we have the third highest rise and fall 358 00:24:11,400 --> 00:24:13,120 of the tide in the world. 359 00:24:13,120 --> 00:24:16,200 So one of the objects was to develop weapons 360 00:24:16,200 --> 00:24:20,240 that they could fire into very deep water and they wanted 361 00:24:20,240 --> 00:24:23,840 to be able to examine those explosives on low tide. 362 00:24:23,840 --> 00:24:27,120 So those are the two reasons it was chosen. 363 00:24:27,120 --> 00:24:32,360 So, actually, Birnbeck Pier has a rather important part in the history of World War II. 364 00:24:32,360 --> 00:24:34,040 Oh, yes, I'd say so, yes. 365 00:24:51,320 --> 00:24:53,160 It's a really beautiful day. 366 00:24:53,160 --> 00:24:55,280 The sun's been out. 367 00:24:55,280 --> 00:24:57,440 There's a breeze off the sea. 368 00:24:57,440 --> 00:24:59,520 You can see for miles. 369 00:24:59,520 --> 00:25:05,280 This is the British beach holiday at its best. 370 00:25:05,280 --> 00:25:09,800 I think Bradshaw must have seen it on a rainy day, because 371 00:25:09,800 --> 00:25:12,760 Weston-super-Mare has lots to offer, 372 00:25:12,760 --> 00:25:16,720 including one very traditional British seaside attraction. 373 00:25:16,720 --> 00:25:20,800 Kevin Mager's family has run the donkey rides here 374 00:25:20,800 --> 00:25:22,800 for more than 100 years. 375 00:25:22,800 --> 00:25:26,200 Tell me about Weston-super-Mare in its heyday. 376 00:25:26,200 --> 00:25:30,480 It was for touring, donkey rides. People used to come from the station. 377 00:25:30,480 --> 00:25:32,400 It used to be packed all the way down the road 378 00:25:32,400 --> 00:25:36,400 and there'd be lines of them coming in the mornings. 379 00:25:36,400 --> 00:25:38,440 What was the beach like in those days? 380 00:25:38,440 --> 00:25:42,040 We used to have to keep a track for the donkeys to walk along. 381 00:25:42,040 --> 00:25:45,160 The people used to be all sat in their deckchairs and they'd 382 00:25:45,160 --> 00:25:47,800 sit on the track and we used to have to try and move them. 383 00:25:47,800 --> 00:25:49,480 It's a wonderful beach, isn't it? 384 00:25:49,480 --> 00:25:53,480 It's a lovely beach, Weston. It's nice and flat. They're safe. 385 00:25:53,480 --> 00:25:55,720 The tide doesn't come in... 386 00:25:55,720 --> 00:25:57,560 It comes in twice a day. 387 00:25:57,560 --> 00:26:00,280 How did your family get into donkeys, do you think? 388 00:26:00,280 --> 00:26:04,120 Well, years ago, everyone had coal businesses. 389 00:26:04,120 --> 00:26:08,840 They were coal merchants and then, in the summer, cos there was no coal, 390 00:26:08,840 --> 00:26:11,040 they went to doing donkey rides. 391 00:26:11,040 --> 00:26:15,400 That's how I think it happened, cos we did it as well. Many years ago, we had a coal business. 392 00:26:15,400 --> 00:26:17,640 So the two businesses go together perfectly? 393 00:26:17,640 --> 00:26:19,280 Yes. Winter and summer. 394 00:26:19,280 --> 00:26:22,040 Is this your first time on a donkey? 395 00:26:22,040 --> 00:26:24,600 Did you enjoy it? Yes. 396 00:26:24,600 --> 00:26:29,200 Was he nice and gentle and safe? Nice and gentle and safe. Yeah. 397 00:26:42,480 --> 00:26:48,920 'By the 1970s, Weston-super-Mare was in decline, thanks to cheap package holidays abroad. 398 00:26:48,920 --> 00:26:50,120 'These days, 399 00:26:50,120 --> 00:26:53,760 'visitor numbers are back up to around six million a year. 400 00:26:53,760 --> 00:26:58,080 'Perhaps the eco-friendly trend towards holidaying in Britain 401 00:26:58,080 --> 00:27:01,040 'is again boosting the town's popularity.' 402 00:27:11,360 --> 00:27:16,280 When I remember childhood summers, I think of strawberries 403 00:27:16,280 --> 00:27:20,080 and beaches and piers and boat rides 404 00:27:20,080 --> 00:27:23,680 and, yes, the occasional donkey, 405 00:27:23,680 --> 00:27:27,480 and these were the things mentioned in Bradshaw, 406 00:27:27,480 --> 00:27:30,280 largely invented by the Victorians, 407 00:27:30,280 --> 00:27:32,800 and made possible by the railways, 408 00:27:32,800 --> 00:27:37,680 and they're at the heart of the British seaside holiday even today. 409 00:27:45,400 --> 00:27:47,520 Tomorrow, I'll be discovering 410 00:27:47,520 --> 00:27:51,240 why Torquay became a magnet for Victorian invalids. 411 00:27:51,240 --> 00:27:54,040 You've got 3,000 miles' worth of the Atlantic Ocean on your doorstep, 412 00:27:54,040 --> 00:27:57,960 nice clean air for most of the year coming in off the Atlantic, so that's good for your lung disorders. 413 00:27:57,960 --> 00:28:01,720 I'll be fishing for salmon on the beautiful Dart estuary. 414 00:28:01,720 --> 00:28:06,480 I tell you, Nick, these city hands have not done work like this in their lifetime. 415 00:28:08,360 --> 00:28:12,640 And I'll be spending Britain's first local currency. 416 00:28:12,640 --> 00:28:17,280 When you shop in a supermarket, 80% of that money leaves Totnes the next morning. 417 00:28:17,280 --> 00:28:19,680 This is a currency that can't leave Totnes. 418 00:28:31,640 --> 00:28:34,680 Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd 419 00:28:34,680 --> 00:28:37,640 E-mail subtitling@bbc.co.uk