1 00:00:04,060 --> 00:00:08,700 In 1840, one man transformed travel in Britain. 2 00:00:10,500 --> 00:00:13,860 His name was George Bradshaw and his railway guides 3 00:00:13,860 --> 00:00:16,700 inspired the Victorians to take to the tracks. 4 00:00:16,700 --> 00:00:19,860 Stop by stop he told them where to travel, 5 00:00:19,860 --> 00:00:22,140 what to see and where to stay. 6 00:00:22,140 --> 00:00:28,060 Now 170 years later I'm making four long journeys across the length 7 00:00:28,060 --> 00:00:33,860 and breadth of the country to see what remains of Bradshaw's Britain. 8 00:00:54,260 --> 00:00:56,980 Using my 19th Century Bradshaw's guide, 9 00:00:56,980 --> 00:01:00,500 I'm continuing my rail journey into the west country. 10 00:01:00,500 --> 00:01:04,780 Today I will reach England's south coast for the first time. 11 00:01:04,780 --> 00:01:08,460 Its climate, its bays, its beaches have made it 12 00:01:08,460 --> 00:01:12,300 a magnet for tourists since Victorian times. 13 00:01:12,300 --> 00:01:15,980 But its strategic position, its harbours, its inlets 14 00:01:15,980 --> 00:01:20,820 have made it vital for Britain's defence for centuries before that. 15 00:01:24,220 --> 00:01:26,940 Today I'll be discovering why Torquay 16 00:01:26,940 --> 00:01:29,380 was a magnet for Victorian invalids. 17 00:01:29,380 --> 00:01:31,660 You've got 3,000 miles of Atlantic Ocean. 18 00:01:31,660 --> 00:01:34,180 Nice, clean air coming in off the Atlantic. 19 00:01:34,180 --> 00:01:36,380 That's good for your lung disorders. 20 00:01:36,380 --> 00:01:40,140 I'll be fishing for salmon on the beautiful Dart estuary. 21 00:01:40,140 --> 00:01:42,300 I tell you, Nick, these city hands 22 00:01:42,300 --> 00:01:44,940 have not done work like this in their lifetime! 23 00:01:46,780 --> 00:01:51,060 And I'll be finding out about Britain's first local currency. 24 00:01:51,060 --> 00:01:52,740 You shop in the supermarket... 25 00:01:52,740 --> 00:01:55,380 80% of that money leaves Totnes the next morning. 26 00:01:55,380 --> 00:01:58,100 This is the currency that can't leave Totnes. 27 00:02:01,220 --> 00:02:03,540 I'm almost half way through my journey 28 00:02:03,540 --> 00:02:06,540 from Swindon along the Great Western Railway. 29 00:02:06,540 --> 00:02:09,380 This line to Somerset, Devon and Cornwall 30 00:02:09,380 --> 00:02:12,020 opened the way for a new tourism industry. 31 00:02:12,020 --> 00:02:15,020 After exploring the English Riviera, 32 00:02:15,020 --> 00:02:18,500 I'll head to the end of the line at Penzance. 33 00:02:20,740 --> 00:02:24,620 For the next leg of my journey, I'm travelling from Weston Super-Mare 34 00:02:24,620 --> 00:02:29,460 south to Torquay before heading up the Dart estuary to Totnes. 35 00:02:35,220 --> 00:02:40,380 Today, my first train takes me along the beautiful south Devon coast. 36 00:02:40,380 --> 00:02:43,700 It was one of the hardest sections of the Great Western Railway 37 00:02:43,700 --> 00:02:46,580 to build, but has resulted in the most spectacular views 38 00:02:46,580 --> 00:02:47,940 for the train traveller. 39 00:02:47,940 --> 00:02:51,260 Bradshaw's guide is ecstatic about this view. 40 00:02:51,260 --> 00:02:55,380 "This part of the line is invested with additional interest from 41 00:02:55,380 --> 00:02:59,420 "the magnificent scenery which opens up on each side as we proceed. 42 00:02:59,420 --> 00:03:03,340 "There is scarcely a mile traversed which does not unfold some peculiar 43 00:03:03,340 --> 00:03:07,060 "picturesque charm or new feature of its own 44 00:03:07,060 --> 00:03:10,900 "to make the eye dazzled and drunk with beauty." 45 00:03:10,900 --> 00:03:14,020 And as the sun rises to my left, 46 00:03:14,020 --> 00:03:17,220 I know exactly what the guidebook means. 47 00:03:21,020 --> 00:03:24,340 The railway's designer, Isambard Kingdom Brunel, 48 00:03:24,340 --> 00:03:27,220 wanted to construct the line further inland, 49 00:03:27,220 --> 00:03:29,780 but was forced to follow the line of the beach. 50 00:03:29,780 --> 00:03:32,740 It meant boring five tunnels through the cliffs 51 00:03:32,740 --> 00:03:36,300 and building four miles of sea wall to protect the tracks. 52 00:03:36,300 --> 00:03:39,380 It's an extraordinary engineering achievement, 53 00:03:39,380 --> 00:03:42,500 but it doesn't always keep the water at bay. 54 00:03:50,140 --> 00:03:54,740 The fact that the railway line was built along the sea means that 55 00:03:54,740 --> 00:03:58,300 we have those wonderful views, but it also means 56 00:03:58,300 --> 00:04:02,420 that the railway line gets pelted by storms and by spray 57 00:04:02,420 --> 00:04:06,420 and if water levels go on rising it can only get worse. 58 00:04:09,060 --> 00:04:12,900 When the line reached Torquay in 1848, the Great Western Railway 59 00:04:12,900 --> 00:04:15,940 began promoting it as a holiday destination. 60 00:04:15,940 --> 00:04:19,500 It was an immediate hit with the Victorian tourists 61 00:04:19,500 --> 00:04:22,340 and Torquay grew into a bustling resort. 62 00:04:23,900 --> 00:04:27,540 One of its main attractions was the mild climate. 63 00:04:27,540 --> 00:04:31,180 My Bradshaw's Guide even compared it to the south of France, saying, 64 00:04:31,180 --> 00:04:36,540 "Torquay has been described somewhat characteristically as the Montpellier of England." 65 00:04:36,540 --> 00:04:38,340 But do we regard it that way today? 66 00:04:38,340 --> 00:04:41,460 Hello. Hi. I'm sorry to trouble you. 67 00:04:41,460 --> 00:04:43,340 Good morning. Hello. Good morning. 68 00:04:43,340 --> 00:04:45,580 I see you have a beach hut. We do. 69 00:04:45,580 --> 00:04:48,380 We do. How many months of the year are you on the beach? 70 00:04:48,380 --> 00:04:54,140 It starts in April and it goes on till now, September. 71 00:04:54,140 --> 00:04:58,020 April to September is a pretty good season for England, isn't it? 72 00:04:58,020 --> 00:05:01,900 Yes, it is. Do you think Torquay has exceptionally good weather? 73 00:05:01,900 --> 00:05:04,860 I think it does. Yes, I suppose so. 74 00:05:04,860 --> 00:05:07,340 We've had quite a wet summer again... 75 00:05:07,340 --> 00:05:13,300 Unfortunately. ..like most people, but I think we do as well as anybody. 76 00:05:13,300 --> 00:05:18,220 It's a lot milder than our friends in the south-east, isn't it? 77 00:05:20,540 --> 00:05:24,780 I'm interested to discover from meteorologist, David Braine, 78 00:05:24,780 --> 00:05:27,260 whether Torquay really is special. 79 00:05:28,820 --> 00:05:30,700 Morning, David. Morning, Michael. 80 00:05:30,700 --> 00:05:33,100 We meet on a lovely, sunny day. 81 00:05:33,100 --> 00:05:36,700 Beautiful, isn't it? Why does Torquay have such a wonderful climate? 82 00:05:36,700 --> 00:05:39,220 It's largely due to the geography, where it is? 83 00:05:39,220 --> 00:05:43,020 It faces east, which means most of the year, it's well sheltered 84 00:05:43,020 --> 00:05:46,300 and the climate here is, pretty much, one of the best 85 00:05:46,300 --> 00:05:48,340 in the south-west because of it. 86 00:05:50,020 --> 00:05:53,380 Because of the warm weather, the Great Western Railway 87 00:05:53,380 --> 00:05:57,700 began to promote this coast to tourists as The English Riviera. 88 00:05:59,780 --> 00:06:03,860 On one particular Bank holiday, 20,000 people 89 00:06:03,860 --> 00:06:06,620 passed through Torquay station in a single day. 90 00:06:07,860 --> 00:06:11,300 Thanks to the railways, it had become a major resort. 91 00:06:11,300 --> 00:06:15,500 But day trippers apart, Bradshaw recommended it 92 00:06:15,500 --> 00:06:17,820 specifically for the sick. 93 00:06:20,020 --> 00:06:23,660 The Victorians were really quite obsessed about health 94 00:06:23,660 --> 00:06:28,380 and Torquay was regarded as a terrific place for invalids to come. 95 00:06:28,380 --> 00:06:32,780 Is this place especially good for people suffering from illnesses? 96 00:06:32,780 --> 00:06:35,900 I would say, "Yes." There's a lot going for it, bearing in mind 97 00:06:35,900 --> 00:06:38,740 in Victorian times there was a lot of air pollution. 98 00:06:38,740 --> 00:06:42,420 The big towns and the industrial areas have a lot of air pollution, 99 00:06:42,420 --> 00:06:46,980 a lot of particulate matter in the air and those that suffer from pulmonary disorders, 100 00:06:46,980 --> 00:06:51,620 really did suffer because of it, because of all that smoke and gas in the atmosphere. 101 00:06:51,620 --> 00:06:54,580 You come to the seaside and you get clean air to start with 102 00:06:54,580 --> 00:06:57,060 and you've also got a more temperate climate. 103 00:06:57,060 --> 00:06:59,460 So, if they were suffering from rheumatism, 104 00:06:59,460 --> 00:07:02,940 when they came to this area they wouldn't have those cold winters. 105 00:07:02,940 --> 00:07:06,940 In the same vein, when you get elderly, the heat in the summertime can be a problem. 106 00:07:06,940 --> 00:07:09,580 So, it was a really popular location because of that. 107 00:07:09,580 --> 00:07:12,340 I suppose that led the Victorians to become more and more 108 00:07:12,340 --> 00:07:15,420 interested in climate and weather and to make some recordings. 109 00:07:15,420 --> 00:07:19,780 For example, it's claimed in here that the winter temperature 110 00:07:19,780 --> 00:07:23,540 of 46 degrees Fahrenheit is five degrees higher than Exeter. 111 00:07:23,540 --> 00:07:24,620 Is that true? 112 00:07:24,620 --> 00:07:27,780 I can only look at the records going back to the First World War 113 00:07:27,780 --> 00:07:32,020 and I've looked and the winter temperature is about a degree or so difference. 114 00:07:32,020 --> 00:07:33,580 It is slightly warmer here. 115 00:07:33,580 --> 00:07:36,060 A degree centigrade? Yes, a degree centigrade. 116 00:07:36,060 --> 00:07:38,060 Two of his degrees. That's correct. 117 00:07:38,060 --> 00:07:39,460 But not five of his degrees. 118 00:07:39,460 --> 00:07:41,340 Five is a bit much, I would think. 119 00:07:47,820 --> 00:07:52,220 The next part of my journey takes me through other Riviera resorts 120 00:07:52,220 --> 00:07:55,900 on the Paignton and Dartmouth steam railway. 121 00:07:55,900 --> 00:07:57,580 Anybody who likes railways 122 00:07:57,580 --> 00:08:00,780 thinks that the real thing is a steam train. 123 00:08:00,780 --> 00:08:04,660 I've been on a few steam trains and I'm told 124 00:08:04,660 --> 00:08:07,580 that this line is exceptional. 125 00:08:07,580 --> 00:08:11,100 I've been told that whatever I thought before about steam travel, 126 00:08:11,100 --> 00:08:13,660 I'm going to discover something new today. 127 00:08:13,660 --> 00:08:18,140 I'm now going up the front to meet the guys who do what I think 128 00:08:18,140 --> 00:08:21,420 many boys dreamed of doing, certainly when I was young. 129 00:08:21,420 --> 00:08:23,740 That is to say shovelling the coal 130 00:08:23,740 --> 00:08:26,420 and driving the engine. 131 00:08:26,420 --> 00:08:29,180 Have you got a moment before you set off for a word? 132 00:08:29,180 --> 00:08:31,860 Yes. Pop out, please. Come aboard. 133 00:08:31,860 --> 00:08:34,540 Oh, thank you. We're coming up. 134 00:08:34,540 --> 00:08:37,700 'Driver, Barry Damon, and fireman, Chris Wilson 135 00:08:37,700 --> 00:08:40,220 'have an incurable passion for steam.' 136 00:08:40,220 --> 00:08:43,020 Well, the first thing you notice is the enormous heat 137 00:08:43,020 --> 00:08:44,860 coming out of the furnace here. 138 00:08:44,860 --> 00:08:48,740 It's roaring red and it's a very big furnace as well, isn't it? 139 00:08:48,740 --> 00:08:51,860 Yeah, it is. That fires dying away at the moment, actually. 140 00:08:51,860 --> 00:08:54,940 We'll have to do a lot of building up on that before we leave. 141 00:08:54,940 --> 00:08:57,700 That's your job? Really get the temperature up, yeah. 142 00:08:57,700 --> 00:09:02,380 So how did you get to be a fireman? It's everybody's dream and you are quite young. 143 00:09:02,380 --> 00:09:06,460 Yeah, there's at least four, if not five generations before me 144 00:09:06,460 --> 00:09:09,900 that have worked on railways. So, it was going to happen. 145 00:09:09,900 --> 00:09:12,220 Were you always crazy about trains as a kid? 146 00:09:12,220 --> 00:09:16,580 Yeah, yeah, Thomas The Tank Engine got out of control, really. 147 00:09:16,580 --> 00:09:21,260 And you are the driver. Yes. So you're going to be running us down the line in a moment 148 00:09:21,260 --> 00:09:25,100 to Kingswear and what speed are we going at, maximum? 149 00:09:25,100 --> 00:09:28,140 Well, the Heritage Line we're limited to 25 miles an hour. 150 00:09:28,140 --> 00:09:32,380 A very sedate Victorian speed, I shall enjoy it very much, indeed. 151 00:09:32,380 --> 00:09:34,180 That's what the job's about, yes. 152 00:09:34,180 --> 00:09:36,460 Shovel all the coal in, got to keep her rolling? 153 00:09:36,460 --> 00:09:39,460 I'll get shovelling in a minute, get the temperature up 154 00:09:39,460 --> 00:09:43,420 and give the driver the steam and we'll be on our way. Thank you, I look forward to it. 155 00:09:52,740 --> 00:09:55,340 The steam train follows the coast to Kingswear 156 00:09:55,340 --> 00:09:56,980 at the mouth of the River Dart. 157 00:09:58,700 --> 00:10:02,780 The train edges along by the side of this magnificent 158 00:10:02,780 --> 00:10:05,660 red coloured beach, Goodrington sands. 159 00:10:10,340 --> 00:10:13,020 £1 supplement. Thank you very much, indeed, sir. 160 00:10:13,020 --> 00:10:14,460 Thank you very much. 161 00:10:14,460 --> 00:10:16,300 This is a lovely observation car. 162 00:10:16,300 --> 00:10:18,340 What's the history of this, do you know? 163 00:10:18,340 --> 00:10:20,660 This was built originally in 1919, 164 00:10:20,660 --> 00:10:23,580 well 1915 originally as an ambulance car. 165 00:10:23,580 --> 00:10:26,780 People have told me this is a very special journey. Why is that? 166 00:10:26,780 --> 00:10:29,420 Devon views at their best, you can't beat this. 167 00:10:29,420 --> 00:10:32,540 It's looking absolutely wonderful at the moment, isn't it? 168 00:10:32,540 --> 00:10:34,180 Yes, it's usually like this. 169 00:10:34,180 --> 00:10:36,860 Even when it's damp there's still Devon sunshine. 170 00:10:36,860 --> 00:10:40,260 What's the very best part of the route, what shall I look out for 171 00:10:40,260 --> 00:10:44,460 Maybe the Torbay area as we go up towards Churston and then as we drop down towards Dartmouth, 172 00:10:44,460 --> 00:10:49,100 we've got the River Dart on the right e with the views across to Dartmouth on the other side. 173 00:10:49,100 --> 00:10:50,780 So it's nothing but highlights? 174 00:10:50,780 --> 00:10:54,380 Really, yes, the only place you don't see very much is in the tunnel. 175 00:10:54,380 --> 00:10:56,100 All right, thank you. OK, sir. 176 00:10:56,100 --> 00:10:57,900 Bye-bye. 177 00:10:57,900 --> 00:11:00,300 'That extra pound is a bargain.' 178 00:11:00,300 --> 00:11:03,500 This observation car is the best vantage point 179 00:11:03,500 --> 00:11:06,660 for this breathtaking journey. 180 00:11:07,700 --> 00:11:10,980 I love the way it when the train goes round the corner, like this, 181 00:11:10,980 --> 00:11:13,820 and you get a good view of the locomotive up the front. 182 00:11:13,820 --> 00:11:19,700 All that power and steam and smoke, driving our train forth, thrilling! 183 00:11:31,020 --> 00:11:35,540 The route is distinguished by yet more of Brunel's engineering 184 00:11:35,540 --> 00:11:40,420 accomplishments, like the viaducts at Broadsands and Hookhills. 185 00:11:44,860 --> 00:11:48,460 And that whistle means a tunnel coming, I'm going back. 186 00:11:59,060 --> 00:12:03,340 You can imagine the excitement of a Victorian railway traveller. 187 00:12:03,340 --> 00:12:07,220 Not only did the trains make it possible for them to do things 188 00:12:07,220 --> 00:12:11,460 they'd never done before, they also brought them into the heart of 189 00:12:11,460 --> 00:12:15,260 countryside and landscape, the like of which, 190 00:12:15,260 --> 00:12:18,860 city dwellers in particular, had never seen. 191 00:12:36,060 --> 00:12:39,500 These days, most users of this line are tourists 192 00:12:39,500 --> 00:12:43,140 making their way to the historic town of Dartmouth. 193 00:12:43,140 --> 00:12:44,980 That really was thrilling. 194 00:12:44,980 --> 00:12:48,900 I mean, any steam train journey is very exciting 195 00:12:48,900 --> 00:12:53,260 and many of them pass through wonderful countryside. 196 00:12:53,260 --> 00:12:55,700 But at least in my experience, 197 00:12:55,700 --> 00:12:59,820 that was the most remarkable for coastal scenery. 198 00:13:01,420 --> 00:13:05,140 Bradshaw's guide is often surprisingly up-to-date. 199 00:13:05,140 --> 00:13:07,580 It tells me there's no bridge across the Dart 200 00:13:07,580 --> 00:13:09,540 and that I will need to take a ferry. 201 00:13:09,540 --> 00:13:12,820 Well, it is as true now as it was then. 202 00:13:12,820 --> 00:13:15,420 Three adults and a child, please. That's five pounds... 203 00:13:19,060 --> 00:13:23,580 On the other side, is what's called Dartmouth railway station, 204 00:13:23,580 --> 00:13:27,540 although in fact there's never been a train on this bank of the Dart. 205 00:13:30,460 --> 00:13:32,420 It's lovely. 206 00:13:32,420 --> 00:13:35,300 It's very distinctive railway architecture. 207 00:13:35,300 --> 00:13:37,860 It's very beautifully preserved. 208 00:13:37,860 --> 00:13:42,300 This used to be the booking office, this used to be the waiting room. 209 00:13:42,300 --> 00:13:44,980 Now it's a snack bar. 210 00:13:44,980 --> 00:13:47,060 Hello! Hello, sir, nice to meet you. 211 00:13:47,060 --> 00:13:50,300 Nice to meet you. Do you like working in this beautiful place? 212 00:13:50,300 --> 00:13:53,100 Of course, when I first heard about it 213 00:13:53,100 --> 00:13:57,740 that it was designed by Brunel, I was really surprised. Yeah. 214 00:13:57,740 --> 00:14:01,180 I like it here. For me as a Slovakian, 215 00:14:01,180 --> 00:14:07,420 it's, for me, amazing and special because this culture and how it was 216 00:14:07,420 --> 00:14:11,740 designed and built is, for me, new, it was everything, for me, new. 217 00:14:11,740 --> 00:14:13,740 This is... Traditions. 218 00:14:13,740 --> 00:14:17,900 ..traditionally a railway station, even though it never had any trains. 219 00:14:17,900 --> 00:14:20,340 That's right. And I read in the Tree Park, 220 00:14:20,340 --> 00:14:24,260 that it's the only one in the world, something like that, probably. 221 00:14:24,260 --> 00:14:28,820 Without actually track, it's amazing. For me, Brunel, means something. 222 00:14:30,500 --> 00:14:32,740 And so you admire Brunel? 223 00:14:32,740 --> 00:14:36,500 I admire. Many beautiful bridges, good structures 224 00:14:36,500 --> 00:14:40,100 and I think some of his projects will survive ages 225 00:14:40,100 --> 00:14:44,140 and will be working for many generations in the future. 226 00:14:44,140 --> 00:14:46,140 Thank you so much. Thank you. 227 00:14:46,140 --> 00:14:48,220 Very nice to talk to you. 228 00:14:48,220 --> 00:14:50,700 I am gratified for Brunel that, deservedly, 229 00:14:50,700 --> 00:14:52,500 his fame has spread to Slovakia. 230 00:14:54,060 --> 00:14:59,820 In the early 19th century Dartmouth was hard to access, even by land. 231 00:14:59,820 --> 00:15:05,540 When the railways reached here in 1864, it began to thrive as a port. 232 00:15:05,540 --> 00:15:08,260 Bradshaw's Guide on Dartmouth. 233 00:15:08,260 --> 00:15:14,060 "This very ancient sea port is beautifully situated at the mouth of the Dart. 234 00:15:14,060 --> 00:15:17,420 "It's harbour, affording accommodation for as many as 235 00:15:17,420 --> 00:15:21,780 "500 large vessels, is completely landlocked 236 00:15:21,780 --> 00:15:25,100 "with hills rising 300-400ft." 237 00:15:25,100 --> 00:15:28,300 It wouldn't be long before the royal navy 238 00:15:28,300 --> 00:15:31,940 discovered the attractions of Dartmouth. 239 00:15:31,940 --> 00:15:35,420 The railways also transported hundreds of recruits 240 00:15:35,420 --> 00:15:38,460 to the recently opened Royal naval college. 241 00:15:38,460 --> 00:15:44,740 It remains the Royal Navy's single facility for turning out officers. 242 00:15:44,740 --> 00:15:48,620 And my hotel for the night, recommended by Bradshaw, 243 00:15:48,620 --> 00:15:51,420 is steeped in Dartmouth's naval past. 244 00:15:51,420 --> 00:15:53,660 Hi, Mr Portillo? Hello. 245 00:15:53,660 --> 00:15:56,140 Hi, I'm Nigel Wade, genial host and licensee. 246 00:15:56,140 --> 00:15:58,980 Very nice to see you. Have you got a couple of seconds? 247 00:15:58,980 --> 00:16:01,780 Sure. This hotel just reeks of naval history. 248 00:16:01,780 --> 00:16:05,060 Well, it's been years since the 1639. 249 00:16:05,060 --> 00:16:08,300 Dartmouth is one of the great seafaring ports. 250 00:16:08,300 --> 00:16:10,260 You are right in the centre of it. 251 00:16:10,260 --> 00:16:14,740 In the 16th century, Dartmouth was also notorious for its Privateers. 252 00:16:14,740 --> 00:16:17,300 These government sponsored pirates 253 00:16:17,300 --> 00:16:20,820 hijacked foreign ships and sold them for profit. 254 00:16:20,820 --> 00:16:26,180 When a boat was captured it was brought in, tied up outside. 255 00:16:26,180 --> 00:16:28,980 A thing called a sale by the candle was held, 256 00:16:28,980 --> 00:16:32,380 which meant that in that room just over there they would have said, 257 00:16:32,380 --> 00:16:34,260 "We're going to light this candle. 258 00:16:34,260 --> 00:16:37,860 "The best offer we get before the candle goes out will get this ship." 259 00:16:37,860 --> 00:16:40,220 That is how the Privateers made their money. 260 00:16:40,220 --> 00:16:45,260 You are being a bit tactful because when you say boat you actually mean Spanish ships, don't you? 261 00:16:45,260 --> 00:16:47,700 Definitely, yes. I'm trying to be political here. 262 00:16:47,700 --> 00:16:49,540 I think I'll go and look at my room. 263 00:16:49,540 --> 00:16:52,100 Thank you very much. I hope you sleep well. 264 00:16:52,100 --> 00:16:54,780 Don't take too much notice of all the stories 265 00:16:54,780 --> 00:16:57,900 of ghosts and things you hear. Sleep well. Thank you. 266 00:17:04,060 --> 00:17:06,180 Well, there were no frights in the night 267 00:17:06,180 --> 00:17:07,780 and on this bright new morning 268 00:17:07,780 --> 00:17:11,620 I'm about to explore the Dart with the help of my Bradshaw's guide 269 00:17:13,180 --> 00:17:17,380 Bradshaw says, "an excursion up the River Dart to Totnes 270 00:17:17,380 --> 00:17:21,300 "is one of the areas great attractions to visitors," 271 00:17:21,300 --> 00:17:25,980 that "salmon are caught in the Dart and in Totnes the chief employment 272 00:17:25,980 --> 00:17:28,820 "amongst the inhabitants is in the fishery." 273 00:17:28,820 --> 00:17:32,620 So its time to get afloat. 274 00:17:39,700 --> 00:17:43,860 Salmon fisherman, Nick Prust, is going to take me out on his boat. 275 00:17:43,860 --> 00:17:47,220 Do I look the part? Well, yes, sort of. 276 00:17:47,220 --> 00:17:50,100 This is a townie's view of what a fisherman looks like. 277 00:17:50,100 --> 00:17:52,900 Lovely weather again today. It is gorgeous, perfect. 278 00:17:52,900 --> 00:17:54,580 Are the fish biting? 279 00:17:54,580 --> 00:17:56,580 Let's hope so. We'll see. 280 00:17:56,580 --> 00:17:58,380 Not too sunny and not too cloudy. 281 00:17:58,380 --> 00:18:00,020 No. Let's get going. Great. 282 00:18:03,180 --> 00:18:07,180 In Bradshaw's day, angling became a popular sport 283 00:18:07,180 --> 00:18:10,620 for Victorian tourists, with the help of the railways. 284 00:18:12,380 --> 00:18:14,060 Anglers arriving by train 285 00:18:14,060 --> 00:18:17,140 could even buy their permit at the local station. 286 00:18:19,220 --> 00:18:22,940 At the same time, commercial salmon fishing also took off. 287 00:18:26,340 --> 00:18:30,900 I hope you got it going out properly, Michael, are you watching it carefully? 288 00:18:30,900 --> 00:18:35,580 It's going out nicely. We always look to someone to blame. 289 00:18:35,580 --> 00:18:39,220 But since Bradshaw's time stocks of salmon in the Dart have declined 290 00:18:39,220 --> 00:18:43,060 and now there are only a few commercial fishermen 291 00:18:43,060 --> 00:18:44,820 working the river. 292 00:18:46,300 --> 00:18:48,140 I don't see it pulsing with fish. 293 00:18:48,140 --> 00:18:50,580 Nick is restricted to a rowing boat 294 00:18:50,580 --> 00:18:54,140 and does everything by hand in the traditional way. 295 00:18:57,180 --> 00:19:01,180 I tell you, Nick, these city hands have not done work like this... 296 00:19:01,180 --> 00:19:03,420 in their lifetime! 297 00:19:03,420 --> 00:19:08,580 I'm always feeling lucky, Michael. You must always think positive. 298 00:19:09,580 --> 00:19:13,980 'Even after all that effort there isn't much of a catch.' 299 00:19:13,980 --> 00:19:18,580 Nick, three men, two boats, one television presenter, one grey mullet. 300 00:19:18,580 --> 00:19:22,220 It's not a particularly high rate of productivity, is it? 301 00:19:22,220 --> 00:19:24,500 No, it's not. 302 00:19:26,020 --> 00:19:28,300 But that's life, I'm afraid. 303 00:19:28,300 --> 00:19:29,980 That's fishing. 304 00:19:32,940 --> 00:19:36,300 In Bradshaw's day the River Dart was plied by pleasure steamers 305 00:19:36,300 --> 00:19:43,820 carrying tourists up to Totnes, and that continued right up until 1965. 306 00:19:43,820 --> 00:19:48,100 That's the trip Bradshaw recommends, but as there are no steamers today, 307 00:19:48,100 --> 00:19:51,580 Nick's going to take me on his motor boat. 308 00:19:53,940 --> 00:19:55,820 Some of this scenery, Michael, 309 00:19:55,820 --> 00:19:59,260 won't have changed in hundreds of years. 310 00:19:59,260 --> 00:20:03,740 An odd tree may fall down in the river, but that's about it. 311 00:20:03,740 --> 00:20:07,900 Here's Sharpham House, Michael, with the old boat house. 312 00:20:07,900 --> 00:20:12,060 Sharpham House stands proudly high above the river 313 00:20:12,060 --> 00:20:15,380 and is today one of Devon's new wine producers. 314 00:20:15,380 --> 00:20:20,260 There's the vineyard just showing here now. What a beautiful sight. 315 00:20:20,260 --> 00:20:22,980 It's a little bit of the continent arrived in Devon. 316 00:20:22,980 --> 00:20:24,540 Oh, yes, definitely. 317 00:20:29,020 --> 00:20:35,020 This tree on the left is known as the cormorant tree. 318 00:20:35,020 --> 00:20:38,140 It was tree that was struck by lightening years ago 319 00:20:38,140 --> 00:20:40,780 and the cormorants just love to come in on it. 320 00:20:42,420 --> 00:20:44,860 All too quickly we're at my next stop. 321 00:20:44,860 --> 00:20:48,180 Is this where you're chucking me out? It is. Thank you very much. 322 00:20:48,180 --> 00:20:51,420 This is my Robinson Crusoe moment. 323 00:20:51,420 --> 00:20:53,180 It's been a pleasure. 324 00:20:53,180 --> 00:20:56,220 Thank you. Cheers. Bye. 325 00:21:00,100 --> 00:21:03,620 Whilst the countryside hasn't changed since Bradshaw's time, 326 00:21:03,620 --> 00:21:06,340 Totnes certainly has. 327 00:21:06,340 --> 00:21:10,580 In Bradshaw's day, the coal guzzling locomotives 328 00:21:10,580 --> 00:21:14,980 racing across the land were early carbon dioxide producers. 329 00:21:17,340 --> 00:21:21,180 Today Totnes is trying to become more green. 330 00:21:23,060 --> 00:21:24,780 Are you free? Yes, certainly. 331 00:21:24,780 --> 00:21:27,580 'So there's a new kind of taxi in town.' 332 00:21:27,580 --> 00:21:30,060 What brings you to Totnes? 333 00:21:30,060 --> 00:21:33,820 I'm doing a railway journey around Britain 334 00:21:33,820 --> 00:21:37,260 and I'm using a 19th Century guidebook. 335 00:21:37,260 --> 00:21:38,980 It's brought me to Totnes. 336 00:21:38,980 --> 00:21:41,540 LOUD ENGINE SPUTTERS 337 00:21:41,540 --> 00:21:44,900 It doesn't mention rickshaws. 338 00:21:44,900 --> 00:21:49,540 The rickshaws have only been in Totnes for a couple of years. 339 00:21:49,540 --> 00:21:53,220 But it's all part of the transition town movement, really. 340 00:21:53,220 --> 00:21:57,780 They're trying to highlight the use of renewables. 341 00:21:57,780 --> 00:22:00,500 So what does this sewing machine run on? 342 00:22:00,500 --> 00:22:04,300 It runs on used cooking oil from the town. 343 00:22:04,300 --> 00:22:08,580 So I'm running on somebody's old fish and chips? 344 00:22:08,580 --> 00:22:10,260 Yeah. 345 00:22:10,260 --> 00:22:12,300 Very green. 346 00:22:12,300 --> 00:22:14,660 Eat chips and save the world! 347 00:22:15,660 --> 00:22:17,620 What are the economics of this? 348 00:22:17,620 --> 00:22:20,020 What does it cost to run this machine? 349 00:22:20,020 --> 00:22:22,420 £2.80 a week. 350 00:22:22,420 --> 00:22:24,900 That is amazing! 351 00:22:24,900 --> 00:22:28,340 Has the amount of deafness in the town gone up? 352 00:22:28,340 --> 00:22:29,780 Hahaha! 353 00:22:32,340 --> 00:22:35,340 The chip fat rickshaws are part of something called 354 00:22:35,340 --> 00:22:38,940 Transition Town Totnes - a global campaign 355 00:22:38,940 --> 00:22:42,020 for sustainability started by Rob Hopkins. 356 00:22:42,020 --> 00:22:45,380 Rob. Hello, Michael. Welcome to Totnes. 357 00:22:45,380 --> 00:22:47,260 What a lovely spot. Isn't it. 358 00:22:47,260 --> 00:22:50,180 Transition Town Totnes - what does that mean? 359 00:22:50,180 --> 00:22:54,140 It's an organisation that's been running here for about three years. 360 00:22:54,140 --> 00:22:56,700 It's really about how, as communities, 361 00:22:56,700 --> 00:22:59,700 we respond to climate change and also to peak oil, 362 00:22:59,700 --> 00:23:04,060 nearing the end of the age of cheap oil and all that that's made possible. 363 00:23:04,060 --> 00:23:08,980 Transition is a positive, proactive response which says we can either look at those two things 364 00:23:08,980 --> 00:23:11,860 as a crisis and a disaster, or as an opportunity 365 00:23:11,860 --> 00:23:14,460 to be creative and brilliant and come up with a lot 366 00:23:14,460 --> 00:23:17,300 of solutions that start here at the grass roots. 367 00:23:17,300 --> 00:23:19,540 So what solutions have you come up with? 368 00:23:19,540 --> 00:23:21,540 We do lots of stuff around local food, 369 00:23:21,540 --> 00:23:23,900 linking people up with local food producers. 370 00:23:23,900 --> 00:23:27,260 We have a garden share scheme, to match people who want to garden 371 00:23:27,260 --> 00:23:29,580 with people who have gardens they don't use. 372 00:23:29,580 --> 00:23:31,700 We have a solar buyers scheme 373 00:23:31,700 --> 00:23:34,340 to try and get more renewables out on the rooves. 374 00:23:34,340 --> 00:23:37,420 One of the things that's been really extraordinary here is 375 00:23:37,420 --> 00:23:40,540 that what's started here is now an international movement. 376 00:23:40,540 --> 00:23:44,100 Thousands of towns, cities and villages around the world 377 00:23:44,100 --> 00:23:45,740 who are adopting the same model. 378 00:23:45,740 --> 00:23:48,260 There's a certain paradox there, isn't there? 379 00:23:48,260 --> 00:23:51,660 An international movement of self-sufficient communities? 380 00:23:51,660 --> 00:23:55,060 It's not about self-sufficiency, Totnes is never going to make 381 00:23:55,060 --> 00:23:58,780 its own laptop computers, but at the same time it can source a lot of its 382 00:23:58,780 --> 00:24:04,180 building materials, food and so on, and by doing so make this economy much stronger and more robust. 383 00:24:04,180 --> 00:24:07,180 Now, you've got your own single currency, is that right? 384 00:24:07,180 --> 00:24:10,300 We do. I have some in my pocket. Yeah, this is the Totnes pound 385 00:24:10,300 --> 00:24:12,740 which is a scheme that we've been running 386 00:24:12,740 --> 00:24:15,660 for a couple of years now in various experiments. 387 00:24:15,660 --> 00:24:18,100 It's based on the idea that, at the moment, 388 00:24:18,100 --> 00:24:20,100 you can look at a town like Totnes 389 00:24:20,100 --> 00:24:24,940 as being like a large leaky bucket out of which all this money comes in and pours straight out. 390 00:24:24,940 --> 00:24:28,780 You shop in the supermarket, 80% of that money leaves Totnes the next morning. 391 00:24:28,780 --> 00:24:32,340 This is a currency that can't leave Totnes, it can't go anywhere else. 392 00:24:32,340 --> 00:24:35,060 'The aim of the Totnes pound is to encourage people 393 00:24:35,060 --> 00:24:38,060 'to buy local products and support local businesses.' 394 00:24:38,060 --> 00:24:41,020 You can spend it in 80 shops in the town 395 00:24:41,020 --> 00:24:44,980 and we're very fond of it. It recently inspired other places. 396 00:24:44,980 --> 00:24:47,740 This is a Brixton pound which was launched last week. 397 00:24:47,740 --> 00:24:50,820 A slightly different look. Yeah, but that's the thing. 398 00:24:50,820 --> 00:24:54,540 They're a celebration of the place and culture from which they emerge. 399 00:24:54,540 --> 00:24:57,020 They also have a five, a ten and £20 note as well. 400 00:24:57,020 --> 00:24:59,460 You can pay your council tax with them as well. 401 00:24:59,460 --> 00:25:02,820 Very good, well I better go and equip myself with some currency. 402 00:25:02,820 --> 00:25:05,140 I think you had and have fun spending them. 403 00:25:05,140 --> 00:25:07,140 Thank you very much, good luck to you. 404 00:25:07,140 --> 00:25:09,180 Thanks very much. Thank you. 405 00:25:16,340 --> 00:25:18,580 As it turns out, I don't have to go far 406 00:25:18,580 --> 00:25:23,180 to find somewhere to change my Bank of England pounds. 407 00:25:23,180 --> 00:25:26,380 Hello, I've come to buy some Totnes pounds, please. 408 00:25:26,380 --> 00:25:28,540 Totnes pounds, how many would you like? 409 00:25:28,540 --> 00:25:34,020 Oh, you do. Right, well, £20 worth would be fine. 410 00:25:34,020 --> 00:25:35,820 What's the exchange rate? 411 00:25:35,820 --> 00:25:38,700 One for one. One Totnes pound for £1 sterling. 412 00:25:38,700 --> 00:25:41,860 Ah, that seems very reasonable, thank you. You're welcome. 413 00:25:41,860 --> 00:25:44,820 20 Totnes pounds for £20 sterling. 414 00:25:44,820 --> 00:25:47,020 Thank you, a pleasure doing business with you, 415 00:25:47,020 --> 00:25:48,700 I'll put that to the test. Thank you. 416 00:25:58,140 --> 00:26:01,540 I was looking for a railway book. 417 00:26:01,540 --> 00:26:05,100 There we go, sir, it's recommended. I've just been on that line. 418 00:26:05,100 --> 00:26:10,900 Very nice. How much is that in Totnes pounds? 419 00:26:10,900 --> 00:26:14,700 Exactly the same price as is on the cover, sir. £14.99. 420 00:26:14,700 --> 00:26:17,860 OK. Let me see what I've got here. 421 00:26:17,860 --> 00:26:20,100 I'm afraid I've only got £1 notes. 422 00:26:20,100 --> 00:26:22,380 That's all right, sir, we're just waiting 423 00:26:22,380 --> 00:26:24,820 for them to introduce the fivers and tenners. 424 00:26:24,820 --> 00:26:28,180 ..four, five, six... 425 00:26:28,180 --> 00:26:31,740 Could I have one Totnes penny in change, please. 426 00:26:31,740 --> 00:26:34,460 Unfortunately they don't do those yet, I'm afraid. 427 00:26:34,460 --> 00:26:37,020 Just your regular penny. Just the regular penny. 428 00:26:37,020 --> 00:26:38,540 All right. 429 00:26:42,100 --> 00:26:45,060 There you go, sir. Thank you very much indeed. 430 00:26:45,060 --> 00:26:47,940 I know I'm going to get a lot of satisfaction out of that. 431 00:26:47,940 --> 00:26:49,540 There you go, sir. Thank you. 432 00:26:49,540 --> 00:26:51,220 Thank you. Bye-bye. Bye. 433 00:26:54,100 --> 00:26:56,380 What goes around comes around. 434 00:26:56,380 --> 00:26:58,620 Victorian steam trains and ships 435 00:26:58,620 --> 00:27:02,020 enabled Britons to enjoy the products of the world. 436 00:27:02,020 --> 00:27:07,060 Now Totnes wants us to step back. To think and act locally. 437 00:27:07,060 --> 00:27:10,380 I think George Bradshaw would be pleased that I took the tip 438 00:27:10,380 --> 00:27:13,660 and went to Torquay for the healthy air 439 00:27:13,660 --> 00:27:17,140 and delighted that I took a boat trip on the River Dart, 440 00:27:17,140 --> 00:27:19,780 but he wouldn't approve of the Totnes pound. 441 00:27:19,780 --> 00:27:22,140 The Victorians didn't believe in localism. 442 00:27:22,140 --> 00:27:26,060 They were at the heart of a global trading Empire. 443 00:27:26,060 --> 00:27:30,820 If he knew that Britain was importing rickshaws from India, 444 00:27:30,820 --> 00:27:34,380 he would think the world was standing on its head. 445 00:27:38,100 --> 00:27:39,940 Tomorrow, I'll be visiting 446 00:27:39,940 --> 00:27:42,820 the largest china clay mines in the world. 447 00:27:42,820 --> 00:27:47,620 What an extraordinary scene, like a vast moonscape. 448 00:27:47,620 --> 00:27:54,100 I'll be finding out how the Victorians shaped British gardens. 449 00:27:54,100 --> 00:27:57,780 What we're celebrating is the Victorian tradition of how things were gardened, 450 00:27:57,780 --> 00:28:00,460 the Victorian attitudes to life 451 00:28:00,460 --> 00:28:03,460 and also the people who worked in these gardens. 452 00:28:03,460 --> 00:28:05,340 That's what we regard as lost. 453 00:28:05,340 --> 00:28:09,980 And I'll be discovering what's happened to the humble pilchard. 454 00:28:09,980 --> 00:28:14,420 There is a big demand for pilchards which has been renamed the sardine. 455 00:28:14,420 --> 00:28:18,100 Ah, the sardine and the pilchard are one and the same, are they? 456 00:28:18,100 --> 00:28:19,660 They are exactly the same. 457 00:28:42,900 --> 00:28:45,580 Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd 458 00:28:45,580 --> 00:28:48,180 E-mail subtitling@bbc.co.uk