1 00:00:04,000 --> 00:00:08,840 In 1840, one man transformed travel in Britain. 2 00:00:09,920 --> 00:00:16,520 His name was George Bradshaw, and his railway guides inspired the Victorians to take to the tracks. 3 00:00:16,520 --> 00:00:21,840 Stop by stop, he told them where to travel, what to see, and where to stay. 4 00:00:23,640 --> 00:00:29,720 Now, 170 years later, I'm making four long journeys across the length and breadth of the country 5 00:00:29,720 --> 00:00:33,600 to see what remains of Bradshaw's Britain. 6 00:00:51,200 --> 00:00:54,480 Using Bradshaw, my 19th-century guide to the railways, 7 00:00:54,480 --> 00:00:57,840 today I'm headed towards Birmingham, at the heart of England, 8 00:00:57,840 --> 00:01:02,960 Britain's second largest city, the metropolis whose growth during the industrial revolution 9 00:01:02,960 --> 00:01:10,000 astonished the Victorians. But the changes in Birmingham since have perhaps been more remarkable still. 10 00:01:13,320 --> 00:01:18,080 On today's journey, I'll be heading to the centre of the leather-making world. 11 00:01:18,080 --> 00:01:20,760 Walsall had a very distinctive stink? 12 00:01:20,760 --> 00:01:24,080 You could say it had a tinge, it had its own aroma. 13 00:01:25,440 --> 00:01:28,400 I'll be travelling to Birmingham's Balti Triangle. 14 00:01:29,800 --> 00:01:33,040 Pakistan is like my motherland, and I call England my adopted mother. 15 00:01:33,040 --> 00:01:35,280 Try and make this quite elegant... 16 00:01:36,800 --> 00:01:39,640 Very good, sir. Very good for the first try. 17 00:01:39,640 --> 00:01:46,480 And I'll be visiting Bournville, which some say is the happiest place in Britain. 18 00:01:46,480 --> 00:01:50,040 Very pleasant. Very nice. I wouldn't want to live anywhere else. 19 00:01:52,160 --> 00:01:56,840 I'm now almost halfway through my journey from Buxton, 20 00:01:56,840 --> 00:02:00,080 along one of the earliest railway routes in England. 21 00:02:01,640 --> 00:02:06,800 Each day, I'm stopping at towns and cities recommended by Bradshaw's guide, 22 00:02:06,800 --> 00:02:09,920 until I reach the end of the line in London. 23 00:02:11,840 --> 00:02:16,200 Today's route takes me 35 miles through the West Midlands, 24 00:02:16,200 --> 00:02:21,440 via Walsall to Birmingham and on to Bournville. 25 00:02:21,440 --> 00:02:24,160 In Bradshaw's day, a third of Britain's metalwork 26 00:02:24,160 --> 00:02:27,960 came from around here, and much of it was carried to London on the railways. 27 00:02:27,960 --> 00:02:35,400 My first stop is in a town famous for, as Bradshaw notes, "its buckles, spurs and bits". 28 00:02:38,480 --> 00:02:43,000 Well, here I am in Walsall. Er, a place I've been to before. 29 00:02:43,000 --> 00:02:46,240 But according to Bradshaw, this is a place that makes saddles. 30 00:02:46,240 --> 00:02:53,440 And that takes me into a world of horses and riding, which I must say, is a foreign country to me. 31 00:02:54,880 --> 00:02:58,400 Despite the growth of the railways, there was still a huge demand 32 00:02:58,400 --> 00:03:02,240 for leather goods for horses in the 1840s. 33 00:03:02,240 --> 00:03:08,160 Walsall became the place to go for high-quality saddles, stirrups and bridles. 34 00:03:08,160 --> 00:03:09,960 And it still is today. 35 00:03:09,960 --> 00:03:15,040 I've come to the historic factory of the Saddler to the Queen. 36 00:03:15,040 --> 00:03:17,920 And here, I'm due to meet Cliff. 37 00:03:17,920 --> 00:03:22,320 Good morning. Good morning, Michael. Welcome to the old building of Jabez Cliff & Co. 38 00:03:22,320 --> 00:03:24,160 Wow! Ha-ha! 39 00:03:24,160 --> 00:03:28,080 It's not exactly in mint condition, is it? No, it isn't. 40 00:03:28,080 --> 00:03:30,280 We were here for 130 years. 41 00:03:30,280 --> 00:03:32,800 And we moved out two months ago. 42 00:03:32,800 --> 00:03:35,560 You've got a new place? We have a new place, two miles away. 43 00:03:36,720 --> 00:03:40,320 Why did saddlery become the trade for Walsall? 44 00:03:40,320 --> 00:03:43,560 Well, you have the River Tame for a ready supply of water. 45 00:03:43,560 --> 00:03:45,920 You actually need limestone to cure the hides. 46 00:03:45,920 --> 00:03:47,640 So you had a ready supply of that. 47 00:03:47,640 --> 00:03:50,120 We're on the edge of the Black Country, 48 00:03:50,120 --> 00:03:55,120 so you had all the bits, stirrups, and all the other metalwork. Because you always had iron ore. 49 00:03:55,120 --> 00:03:58,520 You always had iron ore, so everything was there. 50 00:03:58,520 --> 00:04:01,640 At one time, then, the town must have been full of tanneries. 51 00:04:01,640 --> 00:04:04,440 Oh, yes. I know to a fact that we had five. 52 00:04:04,440 --> 00:04:10,720 And years ago, when a child wasn't eating well, they used to take the child outside, and they used to... 53 00:04:10,720 --> 00:04:16,160 the tan pit doors used to be open, and the child used to get a whiff of all the tan liquors, 54 00:04:16,160 --> 00:04:20,720 and it was the belief that it actually helped improve the... made the child eat quicker. 55 00:04:20,720 --> 00:04:26,040 And so at one time, Walsall had a very distinctive stink, did it? 56 00:04:26,040 --> 00:04:27,760 You could say it had a tinge. 57 00:04:27,760 --> 00:04:29,560 It had its own aroma. 58 00:04:29,560 --> 00:04:33,000 It's still a saddlery town, isn't it? It is still a saddlery town. 59 00:04:33,000 --> 00:04:35,640 There's about 50 saddlery businesses left in the town. 60 00:04:35,640 --> 00:04:39,520 Would you like to come and see the remnants of our old factory? I'd love to. 61 00:04:42,200 --> 00:04:45,320 The dreadful smell was perhaps a small price to pay 62 00:04:45,320 --> 00:04:48,880 for Walsall's reputation for having the best saddlers. 63 00:04:48,880 --> 00:04:55,280 British leather was in particularly high demand because it was made with English oak. 64 00:04:55,280 --> 00:05:00,280 This was slower at tanning than other woods and produced a softer, stronger leather. 65 00:05:00,280 --> 00:05:04,200 This is where the cutting room and saddle shop used to be. 66 00:05:04,200 --> 00:05:08,200 Wow! What did this look like in its heyday? It must have been buzzing with activity. 67 00:05:08,200 --> 00:05:13,240 I have an old photograph here, taken in about 1908. 68 00:05:13,240 --> 00:05:15,040 And if you can see... Of this room? 69 00:05:15,040 --> 00:05:18,920 Of this room. You can see a man there in a bowler hat. 70 00:05:18,920 --> 00:05:23,640 And what were these people actually doing in here? They are all actually preparing saddles. 71 00:05:23,640 --> 00:05:26,520 So this is not a production line. No, no, it is piecework. 72 00:05:26,520 --> 00:05:29,320 Quality in those days was unbelievable. 73 00:05:29,320 --> 00:05:33,960 A century ago, how many saddles might you have been making? 74 00:05:33,960 --> 00:05:37,640 One man might make two or three saddles a week. That's pretty good, it seems to me. 75 00:05:39,280 --> 00:05:45,680 During the Victorian era, Cliff's saddlery could produce around 500 saddles a month. 76 00:05:45,680 --> 00:05:49,120 Today, in the company's new factory, that number is very similar. 77 00:05:50,600 --> 00:05:57,920 Interestingly, the same system is still used - one person makes each saddle from start to finish. 78 00:05:57,920 --> 00:06:04,840 But modern technology like the sewing machine means they can be made more quickly by fewer people. 79 00:06:04,840 --> 00:06:07,800 We're talking about valuable products here, aren't we? 80 00:06:07,800 --> 00:06:13,840 Oh, yes, but in those days... I know I have some photographs somewhere, where in an advert, 81 00:06:13,840 --> 00:06:21,040 I think a saddle was selling for, trade price, I might add, was going for about 42 shillings. And today? 82 00:06:21,040 --> 00:06:23,080 It's a lot more than that. 83 00:06:26,400 --> 00:06:29,800 It was feared that the saddle industry would be destroyed 84 00:06:29,800 --> 00:06:32,880 as trains replaced horses for transport. 85 00:06:32,880 --> 00:06:37,720 Even in late Victorian times, there were still over 3 million horses pulling cabs, 86 00:06:37,720 --> 00:06:40,160 working on farms and in the cavalry. 87 00:06:40,160 --> 00:06:44,720 It wasn't until after the First World War, when cars became popular, 88 00:06:44,720 --> 00:06:47,920 that saddlers were forced to diversify. 89 00:06:47,920 --> 00:06:52,960 As trade changed, we actually started making footballs. 90 00:06:52,960 --> 00:06:55,240 We started making golf bags. 91 00:06:55,240 --> 00:06:58,160 In the First World War, we were actually making 92 00:06:58,160 --> 00:07:00,720 torpedo cases, in leather, 93 00:07:00,720 --> 00:07:07,240 that they could actually lower the torpedoes into the submarines. 94 00:07:07,240 --> 00:07:10,440 For which side? For the English side, of course. 95 00:07:10,440 --> 00:07:12,320 For the winning side. 96 00:07:12,320 --> 00:07:17,320 This item here is actually what they used to knock the seams on of the footballs. 97 00:07:17,320 --> 00:07:19,520 These are the old footballs with the laces? 98 00:07:19,520 --> 00:07:21,920 These are the ones that when they played... 99 00:07:21,920 --> 00:07:24,120 Weighed an awful lot. When it got wet... 100 00:07:24,120 --> 00:07:29,560 If you headed it, you'd get a very nasty injury. Oh, yes, very nasty. 101 00:07:29,560 --> 00:07:31,400 And it was all done on that. 102 00:07:31,400 --> 00:07:33,680 How many generations of your family? 103 00:07:33,680 --> 00:07:37,480 We are now seven. I am generation number six, with a brother and a cousin. 104 00:07:37,480 --> 00:07:40,360 And I have two nephews who are now in the business. 105 00:07:40,360 --> 00:07:42,760 One being the MD. 106 00:07:44,560 --> 00:07:47,240 The transfer of skills through the generations 107 00:07:47,240 --> 00:07:50,480 and the saddle industry's willingness to embrace change 108 00:07:50,480 --> 00:07:54,320 have ensured that it is still successful today. 109 00:07:54,320 --> 00:08:01,520 Just as in Bradshaw's day, Walsall still has a reputation for providing quality saddles at luxury prices. 110 00:08:03,640 --> 00:08:07,320 Now, I've got a train to catch to my second destination. 111 00:08:07,320 --> 00:08:09,280 Time to get on. On to Birmingham. 112 00:08:18,120 --> 00:08:22,760 I'm on the next leg of my journey to Britain's second city, just ten miles away. 113 00:08:24,360 --> 00:08:26,720 Birmingham is a city I know well. 114 00:08:26,720 --> 00:08:31,000 I once tried to get into Parliament for Birmingham Perry Barr. 115 00:08:31,000 --> 00:08:33,560 And was unsuccessful. 116 00:08:33,560 --> 00:08:38,920 Of course Bradshaw devotes pages to Britain's second largest city. 117 00:08:38,920 --> 00:08:44,520 And in particular, he was excited by New Street, 118 00:08:44,520 --> 00:08:47,040 the vast railway station at the centre of the city. 119 00:08:48,560 --> 00:08:53,640 "These structures are entitled to rank among the most stupendous architectural works of the age. 120 00:08:56,720 --> 00:09:01,440 "Notice the turmoil and bustle created by the excitement of the arrival and departure of trains. 121 00:09:01,440 --> 00:09:04,600 "The tramping of crowds and passengers, the transfer of luggage, 122 00:09:04,600 --> 00:09:09,760 "the ringing of bells and the noise of 300 porters and workmen. 123 00:09:09,760 --> 00:09:15,320 "An extraordinary scene, witnessed daily at Birmingham Central Railway Station." 124 00:09:15,320 --> 00:09:16,720 Just the way it is today. 125 00:09:20,280 --> 00:09:23,680 Sadly, the roof that Bradshaw so admired was destroyed, 126 00:09:23,680 --> 00:09:28,400 along with much of the city, during the Birmingham Blitz of World War II. 127 00:09:31,000 --> 00:09:37,080 Today's station, built during the 1960s, is to me a somewhat dark and depressing construction. 128 00:09:37,080 --> 00:09:40,280 Do you ever use New Street Station? 129 00:09:40,280 --> 00:09:44,920 Yes, I do. What do you think of it? I mean, the look of it. It does need improvement. 130 00:09:44,920 --> 00:09:49,680 Looking at it from here, it strikes me as one of the ugliest frontages to a station 131 00:09:49,680 --> 00:09:52,320 I can think of anywhere. What you think of it? 132 00:09:52,320 --> 00:09:56,080 Yeah, I do agree with you. But at the same time, I have seen worse stations. 133 00:09:56,080 --> 00:09:57,960 You have? Where? Let me know. Erm... 134 00:09:57,960 --> 00:10:00,480 London? Euston used to be horrible. 135 00:10:00,480 --> 00:10:02,280 It did, I agree with that. 136 00:10:02,280 --> 00:10:05,400 There are plans to redo this, do you know anything about that? 137 00:10:05,400 --> 00:10:09,440 Yes, that's probably going to be about seven years. Have you seen the plan? Yes. 138 00:10:09,440 --> 00:10:12,640 It looks very nice, but I don't know when they're going to start doing it. 139 00:10:14,960 --> 00:10:18,280 The town planners are replacing some of the uglier buildings 140 00:10:18,280 --> 00:10:20,520 that were hastily put up after the war. 141 00:10:23,120 --> 00:10:30,040 The infamous Bullring shopping centre, also built in the 1960s, came to be regarded as an eyesore. 142 00:10:31,960 --> 00:10:33,400 It was rebuilt in 2003. 143 00:10:38,280 --> 00:10:42,360 Maybe few people think of Birmingham as a Victorian city, 144 00:10:42,360 --> 00:10:46,240 but amongst this redevelopment, there are some hidden gems from Bradshaw's day. 145 00:10:46,240 --> 00:10:52,240 Well, Birmingham in the 19th century was, for the first time, 146 00:10:52,240 --> 00:10:56,760 a great city. And it established great public buildings. 147 00:10:56,760 --> 00:11:00,840 And mainly with the Victorians you associate very heavy buildings, 148 00:11:00,840 --> 00:11:06,320 or you think about Victorian Gothic, buildings like Parliament, where I spent so much of my life. 149 00:11:06,320 --> 00:11:10,000 But here is, to me, a somewhat unusual building, 150 00:11:10,000 --> 00:11:13,760 because it's a neo-classical Victorian building. 151 00:11:13,760 --> 00:11:15,720 The Town Hall of Birmingham. 152 00:11:15,720 --> 00:11:19,200 And this lay derelict inside for many years. 153 00:11:19,200 --> 00:11:24,120 It has recently been restored. I addressed public meetings there, and it's absolutely beautiful. 154 00:11:25,640 --> 00:11:28,760 In fact, Birmingham is renovating much of its Victorian legacy. 155 00:11:28,760 --> 00:11:32,920 As well as the Town Hall and the Council House in Victoria Square, 156 00:11:32,920 --> 00:11:36,760 there are almost 2,000 listed buildings in the city. 157 00:11:38,400 --> 00:11:41,680 One senses that Birmingham, in many places, 158 00:11:41,680 --> 00:11:46,400 is trying to get rid of that hideous redevelopment of the 1960s, 159 00:11:46,400 --> 00:11:50,160 of which railway station was a conspicuous part. 160 00:12:01,480 --> 00:12:05,480 Bradshaw's guides contain city maps. 161 00:12:07,360 --> 00:12:10,520 And they are now extremely interesting. 162 00:12:10,520 --> 00:12:13,640 For instance, the one of Birmingham. 163 00:12:13,640 --> 00:12:18,400 Right now, I'm over in Broad Street. 164 00:12:18,400 --> 00:12:26,040 Interestingly, that's pretty much at the edge of the city, as Bradshaw knew it. 165 00:12:26,040 --> 00:12:28,920 Here, very clearly, is New Street. 166 00:12:31,680 --> 00:12:35,760 Even when Bradshaw thought it was a huge, imposing city, 167 00:12:35,760 --> 00:12:39,160 it was actually just a tiny fraction 168 00:12:39,160 --> 00:12:42,840 of what we know as Birmingham today. 169 00:12:45,240 --> 00:12:50,080 Birmingham is Britain's second largest city, with a population of over a million. 170 00:12:51,600 --> 00:12:57,840 And the people of Birmingham have changed in a way that Bradshaw could never have imagined. 171 00:12:57,840 --> 00:13:02,120 Today, Birmingham is fast becoming Britain's first majority non-white city. 172 00:13:02,120 --> 00:13:08,520 The largest ethnic group here are Pakistanis, who've made their homes around Ladypool Road. 173 00:13:11,760 --> 00:13:17,720 After the Second World War, Birmingham began recruiting people from the former colonies 174 00:13:17,720 --> 00:13:21,600 to work in factories when labour was in short supply. 175 00:13:21,600 --> 00:13:24,680 Large-scale immigration, like that from Pakistan, 176 00:13:24,680 --> 00:13:27,360 provided the workforce for Britain's growing industries. 177 00:13:32,760 --> 00:13:36,200 Kamran Ishtiaq's family moved here in the 1950s. 178 00:13:36,200 --> 00:13:38,640 Why did your grandfather leave Pakistan? 179 00:13:40,120 --> 00:13:44,560 For a better future for us. If it wasn't for him, I wouldn't be giving this interview to you, 180 00:13:44,560 --> 00:13:46,840 and standing in such a successful business. 181 00:13:46,840 --> 00:13:49,120 And do you know why he chose Birmingham? 182 00:13:49,120 --> 00:13:53,480 Birmingham was a city which attracted a lot of Asians. 183 00:13:53,480 --> 00:13:57,160 But there was not much for Asian community, regarding food. 184 00:13:57,160 --> 00:14:00,560 And Ladypool Road was one of the prime locations for Asian people. 185 00:14:00,560 --> 00:14:04,000 So, it's like a landmark to the Pakistani community in Birmingham. 186 00:14:04,000 --> 00:14:05,560 Do you ever go to Pakistan? 187 00:14:05,560 --> 00:14:06,680 Frequently. 188 00:14:06,680 --> 00:14:10,320 Would you rather live in Pakistan than Birmingham? 189 00:14:10,320 --> 00:14:13,400 No, that's a difficult choice. Because I love Pakistan. 190 00:14:13,400 --> 00:14:17,240 Pakistan is like my motherland, and I call England my adopted mother. 191 00:14:17,240 --> 00:14:21,000 So you can't make a choice between your mother and your adopted mother. 192 00:14:21,000 --> 00:14:23,200 Very nice to talk to you. Thanks very much. 193 00:14:25,200 --> 00:14:29,320 As the Pakistani community grew, restaurants and takeaways sprang up 194 00:14:29,320 --> 00:14:31,520 to serve Asian food to Asian families. 195 00:14:31,520 --> 00:14:35,960 They quickly became popular with the English, too. 196 00:14:35,960 --> 00:14:41,680 All along Ladypool Road there are delicious smells tempting you into all the restaurants. 197 00:14:41,680 --> 00:14:47,480 I've stumbled across what looks like a party for another new restaurant. 198 00:14:47,480 --> 00:14:49,520 Nice to see you, hello. 199 00:14:49,520 --> 00:14:52,720 Nice to see you, hi. 200 00:14:52,720 --> 00:14:55,240 Here we are. My goodness, very smart indeed. 201 00:14:55,240 --> 00:14:57,520 Michael, this is just opening now today. 202 00:14:57,520 --> 00:14:59,400 What, opening today? 203 00:14:59,400 --> 00:15:01,400 Yes. Really? Yes. 204 00:15:01,400 --> 00:15:04,440 How are you? How are you? 205 00:15:04,440 --> 00:15:06,560 Congratulations on your opening. 206 00:15:06,560 --> 00:15:08,920 Very good. 207 00:15:12,040 --> 00:15:15,520 Sweet and salty and yoghurt. 208 00:15:15,520 --> 00:15:17,040 Yes, the choice is yours. 209 00:15:17,040 --> 00:15:19,080 Anything, you can't refuse! 210 00:15:19,080 --> 00:15:22,400 Delicious. You will remember the Birmingham now. 211 00:15:22,400 --> 00:15:24,280 I will. I shall remember Birmingham. 212 00:15:27,680 --> 00:15:32,400 The area is nicknamed the Balti Triangle, because the balti curry was invented here. 213 00:15:32,400 --> 00:15:37,360 Now, there are more than 50 balti restaurants serving the local speciality. 214 00:15:37,360 --> 00:15:43,320 These people have had to do a lot of adapting to a very different way of life. 215 00:15:43,320 --> 00:15:47,400 I feel a kind of empathy, because my own father came from Spain, 216 00:15:47,400 --> 00:15:51,800 a much shorter distance to travel, but had to do a lot of adapting, too. 217 00:15:53,920 --> 00:15:57,840 And as the people have adjusted to life in Britain, so has the curry. 218 00:15:57,840 --> 00:16:03,120 Many of the most popular dishes were created here to suit British tastes. 219 00:16:03,120 --> 00:16:07,480 But I'm also pleased to find a place serving more authentic Asian food. 220 00:16:09,320 --> 00:16:13,400 Hi, great to see you. What a beautiful restaurant. Thank you very much. 221 00:16:13,400 --> 00:16:19,320 Raj Rana owns Itihaas, a restaurant aiming for, well, something a little more Indian. 222 00:16:19,320 --> 00:16:25,240 Do you get cross with British people who have preconceptions about Indian food? 223 00:16:25,240 --> 00:16:30,680 The problem is when it is expected to be in the direction of a balti or a chicken vindaloo or Madras. 224 00:16:30,680 --> 00:16:33,040 All of these things don't exist in India. 225 00:16:33,040 --> 00:16:36,200 They're all Westernised dishes, 226 00:16:36,200 --> 00:16:40,080 pretty much created in Birmingham as part of the curry revolution. 227 00:16:40,080 --> 00:16:46,400 Where we differ from the balti restaurants is, we are not operating from two- or three-base sauces 228 00:16:46,400 --> 00:16:49,960 that make up the curries and the baltis from there on. 229 00:16:49,960 --> 00:16:53,960 Because baltis work on the conception of convenience. 230 00:16:53,960 --> 00:16:56,880 Everything here is prepared individually. 231 00:16:56,880 --> 00:17:00,120 So sauces are individually prepared to the dish. 232 00:17:00,120 --> 00:17:04,120 If you're doing individual sauces, you need excellent chefs, and do you have them? 233 00:17:04,120 --> 00:17:08,080 I've got a fantastic team. I'm very lucky to have them. How did you get them? 234 00:17:08,080 --> 00:17:10,840 I travelled to India. I held talent competitions. 235 00:17:10,840 --> 00:17:13,400 It was as if I was Simon Cowell, and they were coming in, 236 00:17:13,400 --> 00:17:17,960 all proving their talents, and I ended up with the 19 that operate the restaurant. 237 00:17:17,960 --> 00:17:21,800 And one of them is going to show me how to do some cooking, is that right? 238 00:17:21,800 --> 00:17:26,320 Absolutely, yes. I guess it's through there? Absolutely, let me take you through. Thank you. 239 00:17:26,320 --> 00:17:29,880 Raj held his own auditions in India to staff his restaurant. 240 00:17:29,880 --> 00:17:33,280 But he'd like to train the next generation of chefs here. 241 00:17:33,280 --> 00:17:36,280 His next big plan is to open the first curry school in Britain 242 00:17:36,280 --> 00:17:40,200 to teach the art of bona fide Indian cuisine. 243 00:17:44,360 --> 00:17:45,720 I'm his first pupil. 244 00:17:45,720 --> 00:17:47,040 Come into my kitchen. 245 00:17:48,320 --> 00:17:53,280 This is Kapel, who will teach me how to cook. Thank you so much. I warn you, I don't know what I'm doing. 246 00:17:53,280 --> 00:17:56,040 Just add some mustard seeds, please. 247 00:17:56,040 --> 00:17:58,200 Right. 248 00:17:58,200 --> 00:18:01,200 Some mustard seeds, like that? Yes. 249 00:18:01,200 --> 00:18:05,560 'Kepal's showing me how to make a king prawn curry from Kerala in southern India. 250 00:18:05,560 --> 00:18:09,360 'A traditional dish that uses curry leaves and turmeric.' 251 00:18:09,360 --> 00:18:11,640 Could you stir it with your spoon, please? 252 00:18:11,640 --> 00:18:16,520 Faster, you have to move it faster. It will burn otherwise. Right, OK. As if you're telling somebody off. 253 00:18:16,520 --> 00:18:19,680 Right. There you go. Beautiful prawns. 254 00:18:19,680 --> 00:18:23,320 It feels like everything's moving very fast, you know? 255 00:18:23,320 --> 00:18:25,880 Like I'm not really in control. 256 00:18:25,880 --> 00:18:30,520 Put some coriander and we can take off the dish, please. Put some coriander... There we go. 257 00:18:30,520 --> 00:18:32,560 That's done. Beautiful. 258 00:18:32,560 --> 00:18:34,880 That's done? If you carry the wok over to here... 259 00:18:34,880 --> 00:18:37,640 This is a wok on the wild side now. 260 00:18:37,640 --> 00:18:40,400 There's a plate for you. You can put your prawns there. 261 00:18:42,360 --> 00:18:45,360 Shall I try and make this quite elegant? Yes. 262 00:18:46,760 --> 00:18:49,600 Kapel, we're going to let you be guinea pig. 263 00:18:49,600 --> 00:18:51,840 Thank you very much. God bless you. 264 00:18:53,520 --> 00:18:57,440 Very good, sir. Very good for the first try. For the first try! 265 00:19:00,640 --> 00:19:03,800 It's nothing to do with me, but that is fantastic. 266 00:19:03,800 --> 00:19:05,560 You like it? I love it. 267 00:19:06,720 --> 00:19:11,400 It's very relishing, it's very fresh, and the spices don't hit you. 268 00:19:11,400 --> 00:19:15,720 It's not spicy spicy. It's flavourful with things, you know? 269 00:19:15,720 --> 00:19:17,240 That's what I meant to say! 270 00:19:20,520 --> 00:19:25,560 If Raj's chef school is a success, it will ensure that the traditional Indian curry 271 00:19:25,560 --> 00:19:29,240 is preserved in Britain for the next generation. 272 00:19:31,360 --> 00:19:38,280 As for me, having spent the night in inner city Birmingham, it's time to leave the multicultural metropolis 273 00:19:38,280 --> 00:19:39,880 for my next destination. 274 00:19:41,920 --> 00:19:44,560 Which way is 11B, please? 275 00:19:44,560 --> 00:19:46,800 Thank you. 276 00:19:52,800 --> 00:19:55,840 The third and final leg of my journey takes me 277 00:19:55,840 --> 00:19:59,800 to the southern edge of Birmingham, five miles away to Bournville. 278 00:19:59,800 --> 00:20:06,640 So I'm chugging out along the suburban railway line in Birmingham towards the south-west, 279 00:20:06,640 --> 00:20:11,280 towards a place whose name became synonymous with chocolate. 280 00:20:11,280 --> 00:20:16,920 Not mentioned in my Bradshaw's guide because the railway station didn't open here until 1876 281 00:20:16,920 --> 00:20:20,400 and then it was known as Stircheley Street. 282 00:20:20,400 --> 00:20:25,840 Then Cadbury established their factory here and in those days French chocolate 283 00:20:25,840 --> 00:20:31,680 was thought to be the best in the world, so they tried to give it a French flavour, so they called it 284 00:20:31,680 --> 00:20:34,000 Bourne Ville. 285 00:20:34,000 --> 00:20:37,120 Ever since then it's been known as Bournville 286 00:20:37,120 --> 00:20:41,720 and the railway station now bears the name of the Cadbury's factory. 287 00:20:44,000 --> 00:20:47,560 The Cadbury family chose to set up shop here because of the railway 288 00:20:47,560 --> 00:20:51,800 and the other great transport link to the rest of the country. 289 00:20:53,160 --> 00:20:56,000 Already, Bourneville Station feels rather special. 290 00:20:56,000 --> 00:21:01,680 I can't think of any other where the canal runs right parallel with the railway platform. 291 00:21:05,880 --> 00:21:09,640 As the chocolate business rapidly expanded, George and Richard Cadbury 292 00:21:09,640 --> 00:21:14,280 ploughed the profits back into the newly named village of Bournville. 293 00:21:14,280 --> 00:21:18,960 They built new houses and designed a model community for the people of Birmingham. 294 00:21:23,440 --> 00:21:28,920 At Bourneville, the whole station is purple, it's just all one big chocolate wrapper. 295 00:21:30,480 --> 00:21:34,160 Bournville has recently been voted the best place to live in Britain. 296 00:21:34,160 --> 00:21:36,760 I'm heading towards the factory to see why. 297 00:21:36,760 --> 00:21:41,600 Hello. Mr Portillo? Yes. I'm Alan Shrimpton, I'm your guest in Bournville. Welcome. 298 00:21:41,600 --> 00:21:44,320 How very nice to see you, I didn't realise it was you. 299 00:21:44,320 --> 00:21:47,960 'Alan Shrimpton works for the Bournville Village Trust.' 300 00:21:47,960 --> 00:21:50,720 Tell me, first of all, why did they put a factory here? 301 00:21:50,720 --> 00:21:55,360 They needed, critically, to have a railway link and a canal. 302 00:21:55,360 --> 00:21:58,640 And the canal, why? The canal was used to bring milk in. 303 00:21:58,640 --> 00:22:04,560 The railway brought chocolate beans and the sugar and took their finished product away. 304 00:22:04,560 --> 00:22:08,880 So when I was at Bournville Station and I saw the railway track and canal side by side, 305 00:22:08,880 --> 00:22:11,120 that's critical to why this place is here? Vital. 306 00:22:11,120 --> 00:22:14,760 If it hadn't been for the railway, there would be no factory here. 307 00:22:14,760 --> 00:22:17,160 No factory here, no Bourneville estate. 308 00:22:22,320 --> 00:22:28,200 Soon there were three trains, each of 60 cars, leaving the factory every day full of chocolate. 309 00:22:28,200 --> 00:22:33,200 Cadburys had six miles of internal railway lines and even ran its own engines. 310 00:22:33,200 --> 00:22:39,200 The drivers often shared a cup of hot chocolate crumb with their colleagues on the main line. 311 00:22:39,200 --> 00:22:44,640 Many of the workers lived on the Bournville estate, a short walk from the factory. 312 00:22:44,640 --> 00:22:49,120 We're just a few yards from the factory and already it's very green, very suburban. 313 00:22:49,120 --> 00:22:51,120 That was what George was trying to do. 314 00:22:51,120 --> 00:22:55,320 The idea was to take the convenience of the town and the benefits of the country, 315 00:22:55,320 --> 00:22:59,680 put the two together, without the drawbacks of either, in a model community, 316 00:22:59,680 --> 00:23:02,920 but not just for his workers, this was for ordinary working people. 317 00:23:02,920 --> 00:23:06,600 Anybody would be here, owner, occupiers and tenants side by side 318 00:23:06,600 --> 00:23:10,480 with all the facilities you could possibly want in a model community 319 00:23:10,480 --> 00:23:14,000 with of course the one exception, there was no public house. 320 00:23:17,920 --> 00:23:22,480 George Cadbury and his elder brother, Richard, were both Quakers. 321 00:23:22,480 --> 00:23:26,600 The brothers saw alcohol as the root of many social problems. 322 00:23:26,600 --> 00:23:30,800 They argued that providing good living conditions, job security 323 00:23:30,800 --> 00:23:35,440 and places to exercise would create a happy, healthy, working community. 324 00:23:35,440 --> 00:23:39,920 To the present day, no pub has ever been built here. 325 00:23:39,920 --> 00:23:42,440 And how big is it? How many souls live here? 326 00:23:42,440 --> 00:23:47,280 In the whole of Bournville, we're talking about 1,000 acres, 8,500 homes, about 25,000 people. 327 00:23:47,280 --> 00:23:49,440 It's big, isn't it? It is big. 328 00:23:49,440 --> 00:23:52,560 I'm surprised that there is such a variety of styles of house. 329 00:23:52,560 --> 00:23:54,600 I thought I would come to a model village 330 00:23:54,600 --> 00:23:58,080 and find the same sort of house replicated again and again. 331 00:23:58,080 --> 00:24:02,440 No, what we've got is Arts and Crafts style, which reflects the age of the village. 332 00:24:02,440 --> 00:24:07,280 Even then, the variety of properties and the way they're grouped together is quite interesting. 333 00:24:09,480 --> 00:24:12,200 Every house had a generous garden. 334 00:24:12,200 --> 00:24:16,000 Building was controlled so that no green space was overshadowed. 335 00:24:18,080 --> 00:24:22,360 And tell me, do you see this whole thing here at Bournville as historic, 336 00:24:22,360 --> 00:24:25,640 or do you see it as some kind of model for our generation? 337 00:24:25,640 --> 00:24:28,920 It's very important to see it as a model for future generations, 338 00:24:28,920 --> 00:24:31,520 particularly for things like the eco-towns. 339 00:24:31,520 --> 00:24:35,760 This is an example of a model village, a sustainable community that works. 340 00:24:35,760 --> 00:24:38,680 Anybody contemplating doing anything on a large scale 341 00:24:38,680 --> 00:24:42,040 has to come to Bournville and take those lessons away elsewhere. 342 00:24:42,040 --> 00:24:49,320 I can see why, for some, Bournville might just be the best place to live in Britain. 343 00:24:49,320 --> 00:24:53,200 Michael, this is a resident and shopkeeper in the area, Phil Davies. 344 00:24:53,200 --> 00:24:55,640 Hi, Phil. Hi. Very good to see you. 345 00:24:55,640 --> 00:24:57,680 How do you find life in Bournville? 346 00:24:57,680 --> 00:24:59,800 Very pleasant, very nice. 347 00:24:59,800 --> 00:25:03,480 I wouldn't want to live anywhere else. How long have you lived here? 348 00:25:03,480 --> 00:25:05,680 Nearly 40 years. 349 00:25:05,680 --> 00:25:09,840 And does it have any of that ethos of the original establishment of this model village? 350 00:25:09,840 --> 00:25:12,160 Yes, I think it still does. 351 00:25:12,160 --> 00:25:19,000 I think the culture of what it was started out to be is still imprinted in a lot of people in the area. 352 00:25:19,000 --> 00:25:21,440 Thank you. May the next 40 years be as good for you. 353 00:25:21,440 --> 00:25:24,080 I hope so. When are you going back into Parliament? 354 00:25:24,080 --> 00:25:28,200 No, I'm not. You're not. Have you had enough? Enjoying myself too much. 355 00:25:28,200 --> 00:25:31,120 BELLS CHIME 356 00:25:34,000 --> 00:25:39,600 In Bournville, even the bells are used to create a sense of community spirit. 357 00:25:39,600 --> 00:25:43,040 This village, with its suburban, 358 00:25:43,040 --> 00:25:47,600 idyllic neatness, is not everybody's cup of tea. 359 00:25:47,600 --> 00:25:53,680 But, for many people who live here, it's close to perfection. And it is impressive that a concept created 360 00:25:53,680 --> 00:25:59,480 a century ago by a public-spirited industrialist is now being thought of 361 00:25:59,480 --> 00:26:03,880 as a model for sustainable communities of the future. 362 00:26:06,120 --> 00:26:09,640 'Even getting a cup of coffee for my onward journey 363 00:26:09,640 --> 00:26:12,800 'brings me face-to-face with contented residents.' 364 00:26:12,800 --> 00:26:15,560 This is meant to be a very special place, Bournville? 365 00:26:15,560 --> 00:26:19,160 People are supposed to be very happy here and to love living here? 366 00:26:19,160 --> 00:26:23,400 Do you find that? Yes. Bournville is an amazing area. Why? 367 00:26:23,400 --> 00:26:25,720 I mean, George Cadbury built Bournville. 368 00:26:25,720 --> 00:26:29,320 All the properties had a certain-sized garden. 369 00:26:29,320 --> 00:26:34,880 The idea behind that was so that everybody could be self-sufficient and grow their own vegetables. 370 00:26:34,880 --> 00:26:39,440 And consequently the children in Bournville are amongst the tallest throughout England. 371 00:26:39,440 --> 00:26:42,880 You're not serious? That's quite surprising. No, that's a fact. 372 00:26:43,920 --> 00:26:46,400 It's run with Quaker traditions. 373 00:26:46,400 --> 00:26:48,400 So there's no licensed premises. 374 00:26:49,520 --> 00:26:52,360 It's quite a caring community. 375 00:26:52,360 --> 00:26:55,440 It's just as well I didn't ask you for a Scotch, isn't it? 376 00:26:55,440 --> 00:26:58,560 Well, it might have been difficult. I don't have any! 377 00:26:58,560 --> 00:27:02,400 'The attraction of Bournville must be infectious. 378 00:27:02,400 --> 00:27:05,840 'I've been so captivated, I think I'm about to miss my train!' 379 00:27:07,400 --> 00:27:09,760 It's OK, it's not mine. It's OK. 380 00:27:16,600 --> 00:27:19,000 Goodbye, purple world. 381 00:27:27,400 --> 00:27:32,560 Birmingham is a wonderful example of how cities change and change again. 382 00:27:32,560 --> 00:27:34,920 They're always dynamic. 383 00:27:34,920 --> 00:27:39,080 Some of the old industries still exist, like saddlery and chocolate, 384 00:27:39,080 --> 00:27:44,040 but, for the future, the vibrancy of Birmingham comes from its diversity 385 00:27:44,040 --> 00:27:49,200 because its Asian community is now almost as big as its white one. 386 00:27:49,200 --> 00:27:52,760 A concept that would have been unimaginable to Bradshaw. 387 00:27:54,600 --> 00:27:57,720 'On tomorrow's journey I'll be reliving the Coventry Blitz.' 388 00:27:57,720 --> 00:28:01,720 You could pick the sound of the German planes up. 389 00:28:01,720 --> 00:28:07,200 Their engines were, vroom, vroom, a humming, humming noise. 390 00:28:07,200 --> 00:28:10,680 I'll be ruffling some feathers in Aylesbury. 391 00:28:10,680 --> 00:28:12,960 Your family's been in the business a while? 392 00:28:12,960 --> 00:28:14,920 1775 that we know of. 393 00:28:14,920 --> 00:28:17,440 No! Oh, absolutely, continuously. 394 00:28:17,440 --> 00:28:23,120 And I'll hear how the railways saved thousands of lives during World War Two. 395 00:28:23,120 --> 00:28:26,720 This was the largest station where the evacuations took place from. 396 00:28:26,720 --> 00:28:30,320 And how an earth we found our way onto the right train I'll never know. 397 00:28:35,040 --> 00:28:37,840 Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd 398 00:28:37,840 --> 00:28:40,640 E-mail subtitling@bbc.co.uk