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In 1840, one man
transformed travel in Britain.

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His name was George Bradshaw
and his railway guides inspired the
Victorians to take to the tracks.

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Stop by stop,
he told them where to travel,
what to see and where to stay.

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Now, 170 years later, I'm making
four long journeys across the length

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and breadth of the country to see
what remains of Bradshaw's Britain.

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Using my 19th-century Bradshaw's
Guide I'm continuing my journey
from Derbyshire to London,

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passing through the industrial
heartland of England,
in Warwickshire

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and on into rural Buckinghamshire.

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My Bradshaw's has often been a
reliable guide to places and people
that still exist.

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But maybe there will
be an exception today.

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One city is highly recommended
in Bradshaw's but scarcely
features in modern guidebooks.

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It's Coventry.

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On today's journey,
I'll be reliving the Coventry Blitz.

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You could pick the sound of
the German planes up.

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Their engines were - vumm, vumm -
a humming, humming noise.

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I'll be ruffling some
feathers in Aylesbury.

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Your family has been
in the business a while?

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1775, that we know of. No!
Absolutely, continuously.

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I'll hear how the railways
saved thousands of lives
during World War II.

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This was the largest station where
the evacuations took place from.

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How we found our way on to
the right train I'll never know.

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All this week, I've been travelling
from Buxton in the Peak District,

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through the industrial Midlands,
towards Birmingham.

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The line south was built by civil
engineer Robert Stephenson in 1837

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and was one of the first
intercity lines

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to the great imperial city
of Bradshaw's era, London.

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Today, I'm continuing south from
Bournville on the edge of Birmingham

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to Coventry, the Vale of
Aylesbury and on to Watford.

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The line has seen many changes
since Bradshaw's day.

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I'm following
a 19th-century guidebook

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and the man who started it,
Bradshaw, was really crazy about
technology. He loved technology.

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I think he'd really be very,
very excited by your information.

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He was the first person to put
together all the timetables.
Right, OK.

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The idea that you've got them in
a little box travelling on a train.

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We used to have to carry
the old timetable with us

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which was that size, that thick.
Obviously very thick and heavy.

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You've got an electronic Bradshaw.
An electronic Bradshaw, yeah.

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He'd be thrilled.

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It would have taken about
30 minutes to get to
Coventry in Bradshaw's day,

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on trains travelling
at around 60mph.

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Surprisingly,
it takes about the same time today.

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'The next station will be Coventry.'

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If you're leaving the train here,
just check to make sure
you've everything with you.

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'Do take care as you step from
the train onto the platform...'

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A lot of whistling going on.
That's it. That's me.

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DOORS BEEP
Thank you. Bye-bye. Bye.

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All along the railway line,
from Birmingham to London,

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you have these stations that
were rebuilt in the 1960s.

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Birmingham New Street at one end,
Euston at the other end and
Coventry in the middle.

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These enormous glass boxes
and I remember in the 60s being

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very impressed by this brave
new architecture.

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Inevitably, they now
look old-fashioned

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but nothing dates faster than
yesterday's view of the future.

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These days, Coventry isn't
really on the tourist trail,

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probably because so much of
the city was destroyed during
the blitz of World War II.

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It's a very different Coventry from
the one that so impressed Bradshaw.

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He says the fines steeples
are the first to strike
one in this old city.

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Many old fashioned gable houses
are to be found in the backstreets.

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That's the Coventry that
Judith Durrant remembers well.

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You were a girl in Coventry.

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What was the city like then?

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The city was beautiful.
A lot of old buildings.

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The streets were all cobbled streets.

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I remember all these old
beautiful buildings and particularly
the churches in the centre.

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The three spires of Coventry...

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and the cathedral itself.

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Coventry was an essentially medieval
city built in the 14th century,

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when it was the fourth wealthiest
city in England

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but one night in 1940,
it was changed forever.

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For you and your family, how did the
night of November 14th 1940 begin?

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It began as a normal night. We...

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The sirens did sound early.

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I think it was
probably about 7 o'clock

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but we were then being
prepared to go to bed.

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We just went straight into
the shelter as a normal night

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but as we found out later,
it was not to be a normal night.

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Instead it marked the start of
a German bombing operation
called Moonlight Sonata.

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You could pick up the sound
of the German planes up.

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Their engines were - vumm, vumm -

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a humming, humming noise.

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So you knew instantly that they
were not English planes.

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You could hear the...

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the bombs whistling down.

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The explosions were horrendous
and you could smell the dust,
you could chew the dust.

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It was a very horrendous night.

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It was one of the worst bombing
raids on Britain of World War II.

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600 planes bombarded Coventry for
six hours, by which time most of
it had been blown to smithereens.

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What impression did the
devastated city make on you?

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Horrendous.

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Of course,

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my mother kept us, sort of, closer

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because of everything
that was going on.

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But we had to learn to live
and we had to readjust.

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It made us all grow up.
We all grew up very quickly.

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500 people died on a night that
Judith will remember forever.

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As I say, these memories will be
with me for the rest of my life.

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You once picked your way
through the rubble of the city

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and now you see it rebuilt.

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How do you feel
about what you see now?

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I love it. It's beautiful.

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Those old memories are still there

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but with everything,
you have to move forward

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and I think Coventry is beautiful.

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What is indeed beautiful is
the new St Michael's Cathedral.

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Built to incorporate the ruins of
the 14th and 15th century cathedral
that was destroyed in the blitz.

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It's a poignant symbol of
Coventry's rebirth.

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On the floor here
in gigantic letters,

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"To the glory of God,

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"this cathedral burnt
November 14th AD 1940.

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"Now rebuilt 1962."

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I guess it says it all.

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I think it's wonderful.

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I find the new cathedral is full of
reference.

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These columns refer
to Gothic columns.

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The way the roof is built refers to
the Gothic structure.

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Obviously the stained glass
refers to Gothic stained glass.

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Full of reference and reverence
for what was there before.

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What's come as a great surprise
to me though is that despite

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the thousands of bombs dropped
over those six hours,

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there's a remarkable amount of the
medieval city that survives today.

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Tucked between the new,
there are numerous hints of just
how impressive Coventry was.

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Good morning. Morning.

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You're opening up, I see. I am, yes.

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You trade in this lovely
medieval building.

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It somehow survived the bombing
of 1940. It did. It did, yes.

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We've also got St John's Church
at the bottom of the street

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which goes back to...
the English Civil War.

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The prisoners were kept in
there and that's where the term

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sent to Coventry comes from, that
church at the bottom of the road.

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Ha! I'm feeling that this is a city
that's somehow undersold.

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I've never thought of coming here
and lingering in the city before.

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I think that's quite true.

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When people do come to Coventry,
they're pleasantly surprised.

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I'm one of them, I'm
pleasantly surprised.

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Thank you. Have a good day.
And yourself. Thank you, bye.

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I'm feeling really guilty.

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I've done a big
injustice to Coventry.

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I've always known that it
was destroyed in the war

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and therefore I've never come
here to pay it any attention.

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And now I find it full of these
wonderful medieval buildings,

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really as good as any English city.

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I wish I'd known about all this
before. I feel should have done.

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I'm back at Coventry station for
the next leg of my journey south.

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'Calling at...' Right.

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For once, arriving with plenty of
time, it gives me the chance to get

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the answer to a question
I've always wanted to ask.

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Tell me about his paddle thing.

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My bat. My despatch baton.

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Does it have a multiplicity of uses?

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Can you play table tennis
with it, maybe?

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I think somebody has.
No, not really, no.

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Show me your technique.
Show me a good wave.

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PEEP!
Wow! A nice, clear blow.

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Thank you very much.
You're more than welcome.

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I'll practise that at home, I think.
Bless you.

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After all that, my new friend's
already lost interest in me.

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She didn't give me a wave with her
baton. Oh, dear. I'm devastated.

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The next part of my journey takes me
60 miles south to Buckinghamshire
and for once, I'm being spoilt.

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A cup of tea, please.

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Yeah. Thank you very much.

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With milk? With milk, please.

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There we go, sir.
That's very kind of you. Thank you.

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First class travel.

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The Midland Railway originally had
first and second class.

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The third class was pretty basic.

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In fact, when railways began, third
class travel wasn't even covered.

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It was in goods wagons.

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But then,

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the railways realised
that they needed to attract

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the working classes,
that they were the new market

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and the Midland Railways created a
sensation in 1875 when all its quite
comfortable second-class coaches

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were made third class. In other
words, there was now to be a decent

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standard of accommodation, even
for the poorest members of society.

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In the mid-19th century,
whatever class Bradshaw

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was travelling in, he wouldn't
have got refreshments on the train.

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Today, I find that eating on a
train is inexplicably exciting.

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The next stage of my journey
involves two changes of trains...

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Bye. Bye-bye.

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..to travel south, to reach the
place where I'll spend the night.

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This is Aylesbury.

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My Bradshaw's Guide tells me
that during the Napoleonic wars,

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the exiled French king
lived at Hartwell House and luckily,
that's now a hotel.

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Even arriving after dark,
this house oozes regal splendour.

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Hello. Good evening.
Welcome to Hartwell.

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If I could just ask for a signature
at the bottom there, please?
Thank you very much.

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Is it true that
Louis XVIII lived here?

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Yes, and you're in the
Queen of France's bedroom.

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Excellent, thank you very much
indeed. Pleasure, thank you.

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This journey seems to be getting
better and better by the moment.

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Next morning, Hartwell House
is revealed in all its glory.

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Louis XVIII lived here along with
his family and a hundred courtiers

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00:15:11,880 --> 00:15:14,240
for six years after
the French Revolution.

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I can imagine very many
worse places to be exiled.

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This is one of the royal
bedchambers at Hartwell House

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and it's full of the fripperies
befitting Her Majesty
the Queen of France.

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But I'm politically minded

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and I'd like to tell you about
important matters of state

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that occurred in this house.

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Come with me.

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In this room,
French history was made.

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The exiled King was invited
to return to France,
to boot aside Napoleon Bonaparte

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and take up his throne again
and he signed the papers of
acceptance in this very room.

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When I was in the Cabinet,
we entertained the President
of France at nearby Chequers

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but there wasn't room for all of us
to stay there and junior members of

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the Cabinet like me were sent
packing, here to Hartwell House.

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00:16:20,200 --> 00:16:22,440
But we didn't feel hard done by.

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We were sharing a roof,
not with the French President

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but with a French king.

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First class travel, a night at
Hartwell House, now I have a taste

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for high living, my guidebook can
also point me towards haute cuisine.

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Bradshaw's Guide says, "Another
manufacture peculiar to Aylesbury

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"is ducklings which are forced for
the Christmas market.

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"They're fed with an abundance
of stimulating food.

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00:16:55,600 --> 00:17:00,520
"As many as three-quarters
of a million ducks
are sent to London from this part."

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And here is a farm
where they're still bred.

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In the 18th century, Aylesbury
ducks were a delicacy for the rich.

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When the railways came along
in the 1860s, suddenly many
more people could eat them.

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Each year, almost 750,000
were being sent by train
to Smithfield Market in London.

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Hello, Richard. Hello, Michael.

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That wasn't too easy to do, was it?

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Very, very nervous they are.
They're very nervous.

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00:17:33,920 --> 00:17:36,800
So that's an Aylesbury duck.
Yes, meet a real Aylesbury duck.

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Now Richard Waller
runs the last bona fide

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Aylesbury duck farm in the country,
producing around 10,000 a year.

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They're very distinctive, aren't
they? They are, absolutely.

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00:17:47,000 --> 00:17:50,200
It's unfortunate the rest of the
breeds which are table ducks are

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all white so it's hard to distinguish
unless you know an Aylesbury.

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Pure Aylesbury ducks
have flesh-coloured beaks.

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00:17:57,600 --> 00:18:01,120
All other flocks are crossed with
the Pekin duck giving them yellow
ones.

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Aylesburys are also famed for their
soft feathers, ideal for quilts,
and their especially tender meat.

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00:18:07,960 --> 00:18:10,240
Your family has been
in the business a while?

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00:18:10,240 --> 00:18:12,440
1775, that we know of. No!

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00:18:12,440 --> 00:18:18,600
Absolutely, continuously
and possibly longer but 1775 we
can actually trace it back to.

234
00:18:18,600 --> 00:18:21,840
That's amazing. How was the
trade run by your father?

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00:18:21,840 --> 00:18:27,720
I remember in those days of course,
it was really, 90% of it was
wholesale trade to Smithfield Market

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00:18:27,720 --> 00:18:34,080
but the high spot of the day
was going to the local station,
to put them on the railway.

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I knew that once they had been
offloaded and weighed

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00:18:37,240 --> 00:18:40,720
and the money was paid to the railway
to get them to Marylebone,

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00:18:40,720 --> 00:18:43,000
it was down the chip shop
for a bag of chips.

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00:18:43,000 --> 00:18:47,360
The chips were your reward. Looking
back now, it doesn't seem very much

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00:18:47,360 --> 00:18:52,160
but that was a great outing,
going to the station
with a bag of chips afterwards.

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00:18:52,160 --> 00:18:56,080
In Bradshaw's time, there were
duck farmer's all around Aylesbury

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00:18:56,080 --> 00:18:59,440
but in the last 100 years,
the industry has shrunk,

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00:18:59,440 --> 00:19:03,720
partly due to competition from
the mass-produced Pekin ducks.

245
00:19:03,720 --> 00:19:08,800
Now Richard supplies his ducks
only to locals.

246
00:19:10,200 --> 00:19:16,920
So, Richard, what is the future
of this very beautiful, very
specialised, very tasty duck?

247
00:19:16,920 --> 00:19:21,400
Well, at this very moment,
I'd say quite bleak, to be honest.

248
00:19:21,400 --> 00:19:25,520
Like all other small producers,
particularly in agriculture,

249
00:19:25,520 --> 00:19:33,200
we've been hit by high costs,
low income, so really
I'm going to be the last of the line.

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00:19:33,200 --> 00:19:35,160
Incredibly soft, Richard.

251
00:19:35,160 --> 00:19:38,080
Incredibly soft feathers.

252
00:19:38,080 --> 00:19:39,960
Very, very sweet bird, actually.

253
00:19:39,960 --> 00:19:42,440
Thank you for your time today.

254
00:19:46,200 --> 00:19:52,200
Until recently, Richard, like
his great grandfather, sent his
ducks by train to Smithfields

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00:19:52,200 --> 00:19:57,120
but now, once again, the Aylesbury
duck has become a speciality
exclusive to the area.

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00:19:59,360 --> 00:20:05,360
You can find it at the King's
Head in Ivinghoe, where Richard's
ducks are cooked with ingredients

257
00:20:05,360 --> 00:20:08,520
gathered from the back garden.
I find you amongst your herbs.

258
00:20:08,520 --> 00:20:11,880
Yes, I am.
This is rosemary, as you can see.

259
00:20:11,880 --> 00:20:14,280
There's lots of rosemary here.

260
00:20:14,280 --> 00:20:18,480
Lovely scent.
Beautiful taste and smell

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00:20:18,480 --> 00:20:22,240
and of course it's mostly due
to the success of the cooking

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00:20:22,240 --> 00:20:25,200
we do at the King's Head definitely.

263
00:20:25,200 --> 00:20:28,040
Georges de Maison
co-owns the restaurant

264
00:20:28,040 --> 00:20:32,840
and has perfected the cooking of
the ducks over a period of 50 years.

265
00:20:32,840 --> 00:20:38,520
We've got four apple trees as well
which are being used as
much as we can

266
00:20:38,520 --> 00:20:41,200
to serve with the duck as well.
Apple sauce.

267
00:20:41,200 --> 00:20:46,200
Apple sauce, fresh apple sauce
which we flavour with Calvados, which

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00:20:46,200 --> 00:20:50,360
is Applejack and that gives an
extra dimension to the apple sauce.

269
00:20:50,360 --> 00:20:52,800
I imagine it does!

270
00:20:52,800 --> 00:20:57,240
Yes, it does. I think I must have
handled possibly in the region of

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00:20:57,240 --> 00:21:05,000
150-160,000 ducks which is
possibly a record for any caterer.

272
00:21:05,000 --> 00:21:10,040
Georges, you're making me very,
very hungry. Could we possibly
go to the kitchen, please?

273
00:21:10,040 --> 00:21:13,640
Of course, I'd be delighted
to show you. Thank you.

274
00:21:13,640 --> 00:21:21,040
Georges serves around 3,000 ducks
a year and I'm about to join the
culinary pilgrims who consume them.

275
00:21:21,040 --> 00:21:23,640
The famous Aylesbury duck, sir.

276
00:21:23,640 --> 00:21:25,360
Georges, c'est magnifique.

277
00:21:25,360 --> 00:21:29,520
C'est magnifique. As well as using
his own special duck recipe, Georges

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00:21:29,520 --> 00:21:33,800
carves the duck in the French way,
at the table, in front of the diner.

279
00:21:33,800 --> 00:21:37,080
I'm going to make an incision here,

280
00:21:37,080 --> 00:21:41,000
and remove the drumstick
and the thigh.

281
00:21:41,000 --> 00:21:43,720
We do the same operation
the other side.

282
00:21:43,720 --> 00:21:45,200
You speak like a surgeon.

283
00:21:45,200 --> 00:21:47,600
Yes, I do, yes.

284
00:21:47,600 --> 00:21:52,800
Now, the aroma of the meat is
beginning to reach me as you've
taken out the drumstick.

285
00:21:52,800 --> 00:21:57,080
The duck is, of course,
perfectly cooked, Georges.

286
00:21:57,080 --> 00:21:59,080
And here it is.

287
00:22:01,080 --> 00:22:03,200
Yes. Absolutely perfect.

288
00:22:03,200 --> 00:22:06,320
A little bit of surgery.

289
00:22:06,320 --> 00:22:10,640
And after all that hard work,
on Georges's part at least,

290
00:22:10,640 --> 00:22:12,880
I finally get to the best bit.

291
00:22:17,080 --> 00:22:18,920
It's heaven.

292
00:22:18,920 --> 00:22:20,720
Heaven.

293
00:22:20,720 --> 00:22:25,280
A votre sante, maitre. And yours.

294
00:22:28,800 --> 00:22:36,160
Having enjoyed a hearty lunch,
it's time to head south, to my
final destination, 25 miles away.

295
00:22:48,360 --> 00:22:51,520
'We're now approaching Watford
Junction. Please mind the gap.'

296
00:22:51,520 --> 00:22:55,400
According to Bradshaw, there's
not much to see in Watford.

297
00:22:55,400 --> 00:23:01,560
"It's a busy, thriving and populous
town and consists of only one street

298
00:23:01,560 --> 00:23:04,520
"with minor ones diverging from it."

299
00:23:08,960 --> 00:23:11,240
Having just crossed Watford,

300
00:23:11,240 --> 00:23:13,760
you wouldn't describe
it that way today.

301
00:23:15,800 --> 00:23:20,560
Watford is now a very much
busier place but the town
isn't the reason I'm here.

302
00:23:20,560 --> 00:23:24,720
It's the station itself
that has lured me off the train.

303
00:23:24,720 --> 00:23:28,000
Brian. Michael.

304
00:23:28,000 --> 00:23:30,200
Pleased to meet you.
Very good to see you.

305
00:23:30,200 --> 00:23:33,400
Does this station have many
memories for you? Very much so.

306
00:23:33,400 --> 00:23:36,880
I came here in July 1943

307
00:23:36,880 --> 00:23:40,400
and this was the station
I was evacuated from.

308
00:23:40,400 --> 00:23:46,160
Londoner Brian Russell was a child
at the outbreak of war in 1939.

309
00:23:46,160 --> 00:23:51,520
This was the largest station where
the evacuations took place

310
00:23:51,520 --> 00:23:53,880
from our part of London.

311
00:23:53,880 --> 00:23:55,840
Did you know what
was happening to you?.

312
00:23:55,840 --> 00:23:57,680
Not really at that time.

313
00:23:57,680 --> 00:24:01,160
I was with my sister who's
seven years older than me.

314
00:24:01,160 --> 00:24:03,480
She seemed to know what was going on.

315
00:24:03,480 --> 00:24:06,040
I was only six so...

316
00:24:06,040 --> 00:24:11,000
it was a bit of a mystery ride really
and it was quite exciting.

317
00:24:11,000 --> 00:24:18,880
Operation Pied Piper
was a national evacuation programme
begun in September 1939.

318
00:24:18,880 --> 00:24:25,680
In just one week, almost one and a
half million children were relocated
on 3,000 special trains.

319
00:24:25,680 --> 00:24:29,680
Towns like Watford played a critical
role, supplementing the overburdened

320
00:24:29,680 --> 00:24:33,800
stations in London so as to get
more children out of the capital.

321
00:24:33,800 --> 00:24:39,680
By the end of the War,
over three and a half million
children had been evacuated.

322
00:24:39,680 --> 00:24:42,720
And how on earth we found our way
onto the right train I'll never know.

323
00:24:42,720 --> 00:24:46,200
Whether it was a random thing
I just don't know.

324
00:24:46,200 --> 00:24:51,160
But it was quite an exciting day,
in a way, especially
for the younger children.

325
00:24:51,160 --> 00:24:57,040
So this whole place would have
been panting steam engines and
the slamming of doors. Yes.

326
00:24:57,040 --> 00:24:59,680
You would have had your suitcases
with you, I suppose.

327
00:24:59,680 --> 00:25:03,920
Yes. Yes, I can remember my Mickey
Mouse gas mask. We always had one.

328
00:25:03,920 --> 00:25:07,280
Everybody had a gas mask, and
mine was a Mickey Mouse one.

329
00:25:07,280 --> 00:25:10,320
What about the about
the journey itself?
What do you remember of that?

330
00:25:10,320 --> 00:25:13,680
The journey itself,
the trains were very, very crowded.

331
00:25:13,680 --> 00:25:18,360
We had to mostly stand in
the corridor and took turns
to lean out of the window.

332
00:25:18,360 --> 00:25:22,160
We daren't go as far as opening
the doors, but we used to put our

333
00:25:22,160 --> 00:25:26,280
heads out of the windows
as much as we could, getting
covered in soot from the engine.

334
00:25:26,280 --> 00:25:29,840
And we would take turns to sit
down in the compartments.

335
00:25:29,840 --> 00:25:32,480
And did you end up with a
family up there, or what? Yes.

336
00:25:32,480 --> 00:25:37,400
Yes, we moved into a family.
Very large house,
which was quite frightening

337
00:25:37,400 --> 00:25:41,120
for me, because it was like something
out of Dickens, almost, you know.

338
00:25:41,120 --> 00:25:45,240
But the family were very,
very kind and helpful to us.

339
00:25:45,240 --> 00:25:48,240
And when I came back home -

340
00:25:48,240 --> 00:25:54,640
it was only after a year, because
the War ended, or the European war
ended and my father came home

341
00:25:54,640 --> 00:25:59,120
from North Africa, and I won't say
I didn't get on with him,

342
00:25:59,120 --> 00:26:02,560
but we felt very distant, because
I couldn't remember him at all.

343
00:26:02,560 --> 00:26:06,200
I know he had a bad time, I know that
because he had some war injuries,

344
00:26:06,200 --> 00:26:09,880
but he would never, ever talk
about it. I was intrigued.

345
00:26:09,880 --> 00:26:14,000
I remember talking to my mother at
the end of the War, when we came back

346
00:26:14,000 --> 00:26:16,200
and I couldn't understand
why the War was over.

347
00:26:16,200 --> 00:26:18,800
It was just,
"We must be fighting somebody!"

348
00:26:18,800 --> 00:26:21,400
You know, because it gets ingrained.

349
00:26:21,400 --> 00:26:26,240
That's extraordinary, for people
from my generation to think
that war was your normality.

350
00:26:26,240 --> 00:26:29,520
That's so strange. It was. And did
you love steam engines as a boy?

351
00:26:29,520 --> 00:26:36,680
Oh, yes, very much. As many
children of my era, when we grew up
we all wanted to be an engine driver.

352
00:26:36,680 --> 00:26:41,280
But it was only when I was
65 years old and retired,

353
00:26:41,280 --> 00:26:42,960
I actually became one.

354
00:26:44,560 --> 00:26:49,760
On a steam railway?
On a steam railway in a museum
set up in Shropshire, yes.

355
00:26:54,160 --> 00:27:00,920
But I think you must be a man with
a terrific sense of adventure,
to have departed on that evacuation

356
00:27:00,920 --> 00:27:04,920
only feeling excited and still to be
enjoying your railway travel today.

357
00:27:04,920 --> 00:27:07,000
Oh, I certainly do, yes.

358
00:27:08,600 --> 00:27:13,880
The railways must have saved
thousands of lives by
transporting youngsters to safety.

359
00:27:13,880 --> 00:27:18,040
They were also an invaluable
part of the national war effort.

360
00:27:18,040 --> 00:27:22,920
The Government took over the rail
networks, sending men, machinery
and supplies to the front lines.

361
00:27:22,920 --> 00:27:27,640
The railways directly contributed to
Britain's success in World War Two.

362
00:27:35,400 --> 00:27:38,320
So, another leg of my journey ends.

363
00:27:38,320 --> 00:27:41,680
For most of the 19th century,
Britain was at peace, so George

364
00:27:41,680 --> 00:27:46,880
Bradshaw might have been surprised
at the horrors of war in the 20th.

365
00:27:46,880 --> 00:27:50,240
Now I'm on my way to London,
and I shall be interested

366
00:27:50,240 --> 00:27:54,760
to see what Bradshaw says
about the city that I know so well.

367
00:28:00,920 --> 00:28:07,160
On tomorrow's journey I'll be
visiting one of the country's
grandest Victorian hotels...

368
00:28:07,160 --> 00:28:10,280
When I was a child, I believed that
the witches lived in here, because

369
00:28:10,280 --> 00:28:13,360
it was so dark and dingy and
very scary, actually, as a child.

370
00:28:13,360 --> 00:28:16,840
..I'll head to one of the
oldest markets in central London...

371
00:28:16,840 --> 00:28:19,920
Do they behave nicely with you,
watch their p's and q's?

372
00:28:19,920 --> 00:28:22,920
Sometimes. Not always, no!

373
00:28:22,920 --> 00:28:25,320
If you were single,
you'd have a good time.

374
00:28:29,200 --> 00:28:34,920
..and I'll be discovering how
the capital has rung in the changes
since Bradshaw's day.

375
00:28:55,000 --> 00:28:58,040
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00:28:58,040 --> 00:29:01,080
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