1 00:00:06,240 --> 00:00:11,280 In 1840, one man transformed travel in Britain. 2 00:00:11,280 --> 00:00:13,360 His name was George Bradshaw 3 00:00:13,360 --> 00:00:17,880 and his railway guides inspired the Victorians to take to the tracks 4 00:00:17,880 --> 00:00:24,960 Stop by stop, he told them where to travel, what to see, and where to stay. 5 00:00:24,960 --> 00:00:29,040 Now, 170 years later, I'm making a series of journeys across the length 6 00:00:29,040 --> 00:00:35,960 and breadth of the country to see what of Bradshaw's Britain remains. 7 00:00:56,880 --> 00:00:59,920 Starting off in London, I've embarked on a new journey. 8 00:00:59,920 --> 00:01:03,600 My Bradshaw's Guide is going to take me to Kent, 9 00:01:03,600 --> 00:01:06,080 which was regarded as a very important county 10 00:01:06,080 --> 00:01:09,880 because it was the front line of our defences against continental enemies. 11 00:01:09,880 --> 00:01:14,720 It was a rich agricultural area, supplying food to the capital, 12 00:01:14,720 --> 00:01:17,720 and of course it was a good habitat for commuters. 13 00:01:17,720 --> 00:01:22,440 Almost the whole county was put within two hours journey of London by a network of railways. 14 00:01:24,920 --> 00:01:27,800 In Bradshaw's time, Kent was the gateway to Europe. 15 00:01:27,800 --> 00:01:35,480 Its railways provided fast links to the continent for tourists, businesses and sometimes armies. 16 00:01:36,880 --> 00:01:41,520 On this journey, I'll be finding out how the trains synchronised time across Britain. 17 00:01:41,520 --> 00:01:45,480 If you wanted to catch a train and you had your watch set to local time 18 00:01:45,480 --> 00:01:48,480 and the trains were running on London time, 19 00:01:48,480 --> 00:01:50,960 you needed to know that or you'd miss your train. 20 00:01:50,960 --> 00:01:56,360 Daring to follow the Victorian along the world's first underwater tunnel... 21 00:01:56,360 --> 00:02:00,680 People came here in their millions, but not everyone had the courage to walk under river. 22 00:02:00,680 --> 00:02:02,640 I have some sympathy with that. 23 00:02:03,560 --> 00:02:10,240 ..and travelling on a new generation of high speed lines that would have delighted Bradshaw. 24 00:02:10,240 --> 00:02:11,880 Darren, this is very exciting. 25 00:02:11,880 --> 00:02:15,120 Already you can feel the thing really thrusting forward. 26 00:02:21,360 --> 00:02:24,640 On this route, I'll be journeying east out of the capital, 27 00:02:24,640 --> 00:02:28,760 before winding around Kent on some of its many railway lines. 28 00:02:28,760 --> 00:02:32,400 From the cathedral city of Canterbury, I'll aim for Whitstable, 29 00:02:32,400 --> 00:02:38,440 then explore seaside towns that sit along our closest border with the continent 30 00:02:38,440 --> 00:02:40,000 on my way to Hastings. 31 00:02:41,960 --> 00:02:48,600 Today I'll start in London, and travel via Greenwich to the strategic naval port of Chatham. 32 00:02:52,480 --> 00:02:57,640 My first stop is London Bridge, the oldest station in the capital. 33 00:02:57,640 --> 00:03:03,280 My guide says, "The South Eastern Railway conveys to and from this terminus 34 00:03:03,280 --> 00:03:08,880 "the passenger and goods traffic to and from France and the north of Europe." 35 00:03:08,880 --> 00:03:14,840 In Bradshaw's day, this station provided the gateway to continental adventures. 36 00:03:14,840 --> 00:03:17,640 My Bradshaw's Guide refers to the platforms 37 00:03:17,640 --> 00:03:22,840 being "spacious and extensive, the wooden roofs over them are light and airy, and the plates of glass 38 00:03:22,840 --> 00:03:28,600 "with which they're covered admit and defuse sufficient light to every part of the vast area." 39 00:03:28,600 --> 00:03:33,600 And I can see the Victorian station behind me, but many people's experience of London Bridge 40 00:03:33,600 --> 00:03:39,400 are the four platforms over there and this kind of 1970s, rather horrid station. 41 00:03:39,400 --> 00:03:42,880 These are very busy. You can see all the time trains waiting to come 42 00:03:42,880 --> 00:03:46,720 into the platforms, like planes being stacked over an airport. 43 00:03:50,640 --> 00:03:56,880 Over the years, London Bridge has grown into a hotchpotch of dark buildings and sprawling platforms. 44 00:03:56,880 --> 00:04:01,960 Thankfully, now it's undergoing a billion pound refurbishment. 45 00:04:01,960 --> 00:04:09,240 And it will sit beneath Europe's tallest building, the Shard, which is due for completion in 2012. 46 00:04:11,080 --> 00:04:14,080 Having caught my connection, I'm travelling five miles 47 00:04:14,080 --> 00:04:19,320 along the south bank of the Thames, following London's first railway line. 48 00:04:22,680 --> 00:04:26,880 I'm now travelling to Greenwich on London's oldest railway. 49 00:04:26,880 --> 00:04:32,320 Bradshaw says, "There are as many as 60 trains daily by this railway, to and from London. 50 00:04:32,320 --> 00:04:35,240 "The line runs over viaducts the whole distance, 51 00:04:35,240 --> 00:04:38,920 "through the populous districts of Bermondsey and Rotherhithe." 52 00:04:38,920 --> 00:04:42,920 And it is indeed built on brick arches, 878 of them. 53 00:04:42,920 --> 00:04:47,760 Apparently it took 60 million bricks to build and they were using 10,000 a day, 54 00:04:47,760 --> 00:04:51,280 causing a brick shortage all the way through London. 55 00:04:51,280 --> 00:04:53,200 Imagine how it changed the capital. 56 00:04:53,200 --> 00:04:59,440 Suddenly you found these railways in the sky plunged through the place where you'd been used to living. 57 00:05:02,200 --> 00:05:05,960 Before the railways, the Thames provided the fastest means of travel. 58 00:05:05,960 --> 00:05:12,600 When the Greenwich line opened in 1836, travellers were reluctant to exchange the boats for trains. 59 00:05:12,600 --> 00:05:17,880 But within a short time, 1,500 passengers a day were using the service. 60 00:05:17,880 --> 00:05:22,040 Greenwich, with its stunning park, was transformed from a leafy village 61 00:05:22,040 --> 00:05:28,960 outside London to one of the capital's most popular suburbs, and Bradshaw could see why. 62 00:05:28,960 --> 00:05:31,560 Talking of Greenwich Park, Bradshaw says, 63 00:05:31,560 --> 00:05:36,000 "We cannot but hope that the park and heath may be preserved for ages to come 64 00:05:36,000 --> 00:05:40,640 "as an oasis in the desert, when the mighty city has spread its suburbs 65 00:05:40,640 --> 00:05:44,880 "far beyond it, into the hills and dales of the surrounding country." 66 00:05:44,880 --> 00:05:49,160 And Bradshaw's wish has come true. The park and the heath have been preserved. 67 00:05:49,160 --> 00:05:54,280 But even George Bradshaw, with his great imagination about the future, cannot have anticipated 68 00:05:54,280 --> 00:05:59,960 the mighty bulk of the structures of Canary Wharf, which are magnificent. 69 00:06:03,320 --> 00:06:07,480 In Bradshaw's time, the splendid historical buildings at Greenwich 70 00:06:07,480 --> 00:06:10,240 attracted tourists from across the world. 71 00:06:10,240 --> 00:06:16,800 Now the naval hospital and the Queen's House form part of a World Heritage site, 72 00:06:16,800 --> 00:06:21,240 which includes the park's crowning marvel, the Royal Observatory. 73 00:06:21,240 --> 00:06:27,360 My Bradshaw's Guide says, "The Royal Observatory occupies the most elevated spot in Greenwich Park. 74 00:06:27,360 --> 00:06:31,640 "For the guidance of shipping, the round globe at its summit 75 00:06:31,640 --> 00:06:36,720 "drops precisely at 1pm to give the exact Greenwich Time." 76 00:06:43,680 --> 00:06:45,960 Oh dear. I'm going to need a better watch. 77 00:06:48,120 --> 00:06:54,880 The Greenwich Observatory's Time Ball has been helping accurately to set watches and clocks since 1833. 78 00:06:54,880 --> 00:06:57,840 Hello, Jonathan. Hello, Michael. 79 00:06:57,840 --> 00:07:00,640 'Jonathan Betts is the senior curator of horology.' 80 00:07:00,640 --> 00:07:05,720 The famous ball here. What is that for, what does it do? 81 00:07:05,720 --> 00:07:11,240 It was necessary before you left your home port to set to local time, 82 00:07:11,240 --> 00:07:13,320 and that's what the Time Ball was for. 83 00:07:13,320 --> 00:07:17,800 To enable the ships in the docklands below to set their chronometers correctly. 84 00:07:17,800 --> 00:07:21,200 So they'd be on the ships with their telescopes, looking up 85 00:07:21,200 --> 00:07:23,880 and measuring the exact moment at which the ball fell? 86 00:07:23,880 --> 00:07:25,880 At 1pm every day, they were all down there. 87 00:07:25,880 --> 00:07:30,760 And of course the public regarded it very much as a time service for them. 88 00:07:32,240 --> 00:07:38,080 With the dawn of the railway age, Greenwich assumed additional importance. 89 00:07:38,080 --> 00:07:44,360 Until then, time was set locally, so Bristol was 14 minutes behind London time and Plymouth 20 minutes. 90 00:07:44,360 --> 00:07:47,800 That caused havoc for train timetables. 91 00:07:47,800 --> 00:07:51,080 Is it really the case that the railways were the main force 92 00:07:51,080 --> 00:07:54,600 driving towards having standardised time in this country? 93 00:07:54,600 --> 00:07:59,480 Principally it was, yes. The railways and the electric telegraph went hand in hand. 94 00:07:59,480 --> 00:08:02,040 With the introduction of the railways and the telegraph 95 00:08:02,040 --> 00:08:05,200 it was realised we needed one time for the nation. 96 00:08:05,200 --> 00:08:09,600 If you wanted to catch a train and you had your watch set to your local time and they had 97 00:08:09,600 --> 00:08:13,400 their timetables on London time, you needed to know that or you'd miss your train. 98 00:08:13,400 --> 00:08:17,480 Then eventually Greenwich gets into the business of telegraphing 99 00:08:17,480 --> 00:08:19,840 the time to towns and cities all over Britain? 100 00:08:19,840 --> 00:08:25,720 Yes, electric clocks had been created in the 1840s, and we created here something called an electric 101 00:08:25,720 --> 00:08:32,920 master and slave system, in which the master clock sent out electrical time signals using the electric telegraph 102 00:08:32,920 --> 00:08:37,760 along the railway lines to virtually anywhere in the country, to provide Greenwich Time. 103 00:08:40,040 --> 00:08:44,240 Towns and villages outside London instantly received the Greenwich Time, 104 00:08:44,240 --> 00:08:48,560 which would be displayed in public places using signal devices. 105 00:08:48,560 --> 00:08:52,880 Jonathan has several Victorian examples. 106 00:08:52,880 --> 00:08:56,120 Your workshop is a busy-looking place. 107 00:08:56,120 --> 00:09:02,400 Yeah. There's plenty going on here. I've actually got two time signals out for you to see. 108 00:09:02,400 --> 00:09:08,880 From the 1870s, this type of time signal was being used by subscribers all over the country 109 00:09:08,880 --> 00:09:11,840 to provide a Greenwich Time service for their customers. 110 00:09:11,840 --> 00:09:16,360 In front of jewellers shops, like Hancocks here in Bond Street, 111 00:09:16,360 --> 00:09:20,480 you'd find a group of people with their pocket watches, waiting to set the time. 112 00:09:20,480 --> 00:09:24,080 As the moment approached, there'd be mounting excitement. 113 00:09:24,080 --> 00:09:28,040 This one is more like your ball here at Greenwich. 114 00:09:28,040 --> 00:09:31,400 Very much so. This is a little miniature version of the Time Ball. 115 00:09:31,400 --> 00:09:33,440 There were many of these made. 116 00:09:33,440 --> 00:09:39,600 First of all, this would happen at about five minutes before 1pm. 117 00:09:39,600 --> 00:09:42,360 The person receiving the time signal 118 00:09:42,360 --> 00:09:46,640 would arrange for the ball to be raised to the top of the mast 119 00:09:46,640 --> 00:09:50,880 in time for the Greenwich Time signal to go through. 120 00:09:50,880 --> 00:09:56,200 Then, with everybody standing outside waiting with their watches, 121 00:09:56,200 --> 00:09:59,480 at the moment of the signal, the ball would drop. 122 00:09:59,480 --> 00:10:04,320 And there you have it. Wow. That's magnificent. Isn't that fun? It is. 123 00:10:04,320 --> 00:10:10,160 It's absolutely wonderful. I've been thinking about railway time since I started making these journeys. 124 00:10:10,160 --> 00:10:15,080 But it's really brought it home to me today. That really is fascinating. This is how it worked. 125 00:10:15,080 --> 00:10:16,400 Precision time-keeping. 126 00:10:21,600 --> 00:10:27,640 The railways created the need for standardised time in Britain, and in other countries, too. 127 00:10:27,640 --> 00:10:29,960 That gave rise to time zones. 128 00:10:29,960 --> 00:10:35,600 Since 1884, time around the globe has been set by reference to Greenwich. 129 00:10:36,800 --> 00:10:39,240 One last thing to do before I leave Greenwich. 130 00:10:39,240 --> 00:10:45,040 Bradshaw comments that, "Large quantities of whitebait are caught in the season. 131 00:10:45,040 --> 00:10:48,840 "Whitebait dinners form the chief attractions to the taverns adjacent. 132 00:10:48,840 --> 00:10:53,960 "And here, Her Majesty's ministers regale themselves annually on that fish. 133 00:10:53,960 --> 00:10:59,160 "The seasons from May to the latter end of July, when Parliament generally closes for the season. 134 00:10:59,160 --> 00:11:02,520 I can tell you that those dinners aren't just historic. 135 00:11:02,520 --> 00:11:07,600 When I was a minister, I went to one of those whitebait dinners at this very tavern. 136 00:11:08,600 --> 00:11:11,160 Hi. How many of you? Just one of me. 137 00:11:11,160 --> 00:11:13,000 Can I have a table, please? 138 00:11:13,000 --> 00:11:18,760 Follow me. Thank you. Have you got any whitebait on today? Of course. Your great tradition. 139 00:11:18,760 --> 00:11:23,160 Very traditional. It's certainly a table with a view. Isn't that fantastic! Thank you. 140 00:11:23,160 --> 00:11:26,600 I'll have a whitebait dinner, please. Thank you. 141 00:11:28,800 --> 00:11:34,160 Famous statesmen from William Pitt to William Gladstone enjoyed whitebait suppers. 142 00:11:34,160 --> 00:11:37,040 So I follow rather eminent diners. 143 00:11:37,040 --> 00:11:39,560 Thank you very much. Fresh from the Thames? 144 00:11:39,560 --> 00:11:42,040 Not any more, unfortunately. From the North Sea now. 145 00:11:42,040 --> 00:11:47,160 I believe that this tavern was particularly associated with Liberal politicians? 146 00:11:47,160 --> 00:11:51,360 I'm slightly out of place here. Well, maybe not in coalition times! Thank you so much. 147 00:11:51,360 --> 00:11:53,280 My pleasure. Enjoy. I will. 148 00:11:55,600 --> 00:11:57,240 As good as ever. 149 00:11:57,240 --> 00:11:59,880 Absolutely great. Crisp, beautiful. 150 00:12:15,400 --> 00:12:18,760 I've left Greenwich and made my way to nearby New Cross, 151 00:12:18,760 --> 00:12:23,640 and now I'm headed for Rotherhithe on London's newest railway service. 152 00:12:26,280 --> 00:12:32,000 Part of the London overground, it opened in 2010, although a portion 153 00:12:32,000 --> 00:12:35,640 follows the route of a railway that dates back to Bradshaw's era. 154 00:12:35,640 --> 00:12:38,280 In the 1860s, when it was first built, 155 00:12:38,280 --> 00:12:41,160 it was known as the East London Railway. 156 00:12:41,160 --> 00:12:43,600 I'm travelling just two miles to my next stop. 157 00:12:43,600 --> 00:12:50,360 The refurbished East London line has wonderful new trains. 158 00:12:50,360 --> 00:12:54,640 They remind me of trains I've seen in places like Hong Kong. 159 00:12:54,640 --> 00:12:58,800 You pass from one car to the next. 160 00:12:58,800 --> 00:13:04,960 With no doors. And the whole thing is like one long continuous tube. 161 00:13:04,960 --> 00:13:08,320 'I'm pleased to find that my enthusiasm for this new rail service 162 00:13:08,320 --> 00:13:11,800 'is matched or exceeded by one of its passengers.' 163 00:13:11,800 --> 00:13:16,080 Hello. Hello. It's terrific, isn't it, the new service? Yeah. 164 00:13:16,080 --> 00:13:17,960 Have you been on it before? 165 00:13:17,960 --> 00:13:20,160 Yeah. I was the first ever person 166 00:13:20,160 --> 00:13:24,800 to go on the new line from Shoreditch High Street to New Cross Gate, 167 00:13:24,800 --> 00:13:28,440 to Dalston Junction and back to Shoreditch. First ever person? 168 00:13:28,440 --> 00:13:34,960 Yeah, on 15 April. You wrote in, did you, or telephoned? I e-mailed in. 169 00:13:34,960 --> 00:13:36,800 What's so special about the East London line? 170 00:13:36,800 --> 00:13:41,640 What's special is the Thames Tunnel between Wapping and Rotherhithe stations, 171 00:13:41,640 --> 00:13:44,320 built by Isambard Kingdom Brunel. 172 00:13:44,320 --> 00:13:48,800 Well, we'll be arriving at Rotherhithe soon. That's where the tunnel begins, isn't it? Yeah. 173 00:13:48,800 --> 00:13:55,040 That's where I'm getting off and I'm going to have a close look at that tunnel myself. Bye-bye. Bye. 174 00:13:55,040 --> 00:13:58,240 I'm getting off at Rotherhithe, where the new line follows 175 00:13:58,240 --> 00:14:06,080 the original Victorian route, and takes advantage of one of the 19th century's most daring achievements. 176 00:14:06,080 --> 00:14:13,600 So it's London's newest railway service, but it passes through a tunnel familiar to Bradshaw. 177 00:14:13,600 --> 00:14:19,640 "The tunnel from Wapping to Rotherhithe was commenced in 1805 and opened in 1843 178 00:14:19,640 --> 00:14:23,000 "by the projector and engineer, Sir IK Brunel." 179 00:14:23,000 --> 00:14:26,400 Then he gives all its dimensions and he says, "It's a double archway, 180 00:14:26,400 --> 00:14:33,480 "brilliantly lighted, with gas, and open each day and night with a toll of one penny for each passenger." 181 00:14:33,480 --> 00:14:35,520 This tunnel wasn't built for a railway. 182 00:14:35,520 --> 00:14:39,360 It was built for pedestrians, and I'm going to take a walk through it. 183 00:14:42,000 --> 00:14:47,680 From 1am, the line is closed, and I'm assured it will be safe to walk along it. 184 00:14:47,680 --> 00:14:51,640 I'm meeting Robert Hulse from the Brunel Museum, 185 00:14:51,640 --> 00:14:53,760 a keen admirer of this tunnel. 186 00:14:53,760 --> 00:14:57,000 Hello. Here we are in the middle of the night. 187 00:14:57,000 --> 00:15:01,080 We hope all the trains have stopped when we go into the tunnel. 188 00:15:01,080 --> 00:15:02,880 It's quite a special tunnel, isn't it? 189 00:15:02,880 --> 00:15:06,160 Yes, it is. It's the first tunnel under a river anywhere in the world, 190 00:15:06,160 --> 00:15:10,440 and it's the first project that Isambard Kingdom Brunel worked on. 191 00:15:10,440 --> 00:15:14,480 So in a way, it's also the origins of underground railways? 192 00:15:14,480 --> 00:15:17,920 Yes, this is an international landmark site as it's the birthplace 193 00:15:17,920 --> 00:15:21,160 of the Tube, not just for London, but for everywhere. 194 00:15:23,880 --> 00:15:30,200 This 365-metre tunnel was originally built as a fast way to transport cargo across the river. 195 00:15:30,200 --> 00:15:36,680 It was engineered by Marc Brunel, and the work was supervised by his son, Isambard Kingdom Brunel. 196 00:15:36,680 --> 00:15:43,320 For the first time, they would bore beneath water at enormous risk and in appalling conditions. 197 00:15:45,320 --> 00:15:47,800 Was machinery used to build this in any way? 198 00:15:47,800 --> 00:15:50,640 No, it's dug by hand. 199 00:15:50,640 --> 00:15:55,720 It's dug by men working in cages with short-handle spades, 200 00:15:55,720 --> 00:15:57,480 showered with Thames water. 201 00:15:57,480 --> 00:16:04,240 In 1825, when the Thames was the biggest open sewer in the world, 202 00:16:04,240 --> 00:16:08,520 it just doesn't bear thinking about what was showering down 203 00:16:08,520 --> 00:16:11,520 on these poor unfortunates as they toiled under the river. 204 00:16:12,720 --> 00:16:17,800 It took thousands of men, working by oil lamp, to construct the tunnel. 205 00:16:17,800 --> 00:16:20,720 Officially, six people were killed building it, 206 00:16:20,720 --> 00:16:24,760 but that doesn't include others who died from cholera and TB. 207 00:16:24,760 --> 00:16:28,360 It was a lethal enterprise. It began just here. 208 00:16:28,360 --> 00:16:35,720 Now, imagine this as a cage, 36 tiny cages, a row of 12 along the top. 209 00:16:35,720 --> 00:16:39,000 Each one of those has a man in it? Each one of those has a man in it. 210 00:16:39,000 --> 00:16:42,880 And the method of building it? Obviously it had to be original? That's right. 211 00:16:42,880 --> 00:16:46,280 This is Marc Brunel's patented method, 212 00:16:46,280 --> 00:16:49,760 and modern tunnelling-machines are based on this principle. 213 00:16:49,760 --> 00:16:53,200 Men dug out the earth four inches at a time, 214 00:16:53,200 --> 00:16:57,880 then the exposed flanks were quickly lined with bricks. 215 00:16:57,880 --> 00:17:02,560 But after 18 years, there was no money to build cargo ramps, 216 00:17:02,560 --> 00:17:07,560 so the tunnel was opened to pedestrians instead, at the cost of one penny. 217 00:17:07,560 --> 00:17:13,880 In the first 15 weeks, there were a million visitors, but that's only a million pennies. 218 00:17:13,880 --> 00:17:18,360 The tunnel was conceived as a cargo tunnel that would have got 219 00:17:18,360 --> 00:17:22,280 tolls form the shipping agencies, so they have pennies. 220 00:17:22,280 --> 00:17:27,720 They were a huge success as a visitor attraction, but they have no revenue. 221 00:17:27,720 --> 00:17:33,440 So they built the world's first underwater shopping arcade, 222 00:17:33,440 --> 00:17:38,200 to try and make some money. Each of these little archways was a shop. 223 00:17:38,200 --> 00:17:43,360 There's just room for you and a barrow and table of souvenirs. 224 00:17:43,360 --> 00:17:46,000 They sold items like this. 225 00:17:46,000 --> 00:17:50,120 They sold Thames Tunnel gin flasks, Thames Tunnel pin cushions, 226 00:17:50,120 --> 00:17:54,240 Thames Tunnel snuff boxes, Thames Tunnel coffee cups. 227 00:17:54,240 --> 00:17:58,840 If they'd had baseball caps, they'd have sold those. 228 00:17:58,840 --> 00:18:04,320 People came here in their millions, but not everyone had the courage to walk under the river. 229 00:18:04,320 --> 00:18:12,160 And some people walked under the river very briskly, and broke into a run at this point, which is halfway. 230 00:18:12,160 --> 00:18:14,640 Where most people's resolve failed them. 231 00:18:14,640 --> 00:18:16,280 I have some sympathy with that. 232 00:18:16,280 --> 00:18:19,120 Sadly, what opened as a shining avenue of light 233 00:18:19,120 --> 00:18:25,040 under the River Thames to Wapping became by degrees a little less shiny 234 00:18:25,040 --> 00:18:29,480 and a little less respectable. Oh. It became a bit seedy, did it? 235 00:18:29,480 --> 00:18:34,400 It did. It became a haunt of thieves, cut-purses and what the books 236 00:18:34,400 --> 00:18:39,680 demurely describe as, "Women, no better than they should be." 237 00:18:39,680 --> 00:18:46,760 In fact, there were all kinds of transactions conducted under the River Thames in these dark spaces. 238 00:18:46,760 --> 00:18:49,840 And so at that point it was ready to became a railway tunnel? 239 00:18:49,840 --> 00:18:56,920 Yes, in 1865, they sold the tunnel to the railway. 240 00:18:58,520 --> 00:19:01,160 The tunnel became part of the growing rail system 241 00:19:01,160 --> 00:19:06,120 and is now the centrepiece of London's newest train service. 242 00:19:06,120 --> 00:19:11,120 I still don't like touching that electric rail, even if it is off. Healthy respect! 243 00:19:19,280 --> 00:19:22,720 The next day, I'm heading to St Pancras station to pick up 244 00:19:22,720 --> 00:19:26,880 a very fast train that will carry me to the heart of Kent. 245 00:19:26,880 --> 00:19:32,120 If Bradshaw were still publishing, he would be lyrical about this service. 246 00:19:32,120 --> 00:19:35,520 This is a very exciting thing for me, first time I get to ride 247 00:19:35,520 --> 00:19:40,400 on a high speed train on a domestic British service. 248 00:19:40,400 --> 00:19:45,640 I bear the scars of this line, as when I was a Minister of Transport in the 1980s, we were planning it, 249 00:19:45,640 --> 00:19:47,720 and the people of Kent were up in arms 250 00:19:47,720 --> 00:19:51,560 that they'd have noisy, high-speed trains passing near their villages. 251 00:19:51,560 --> 00:19:55,800 What they couldn't imagine then is that many of them would get travel times to London 252 00:19:55,800 --> 00:19:59,200 that would be a fraction of what they'd experienced before, 253 00:19:59,200 --> 00:20:03,080 and at speeds that would have exhilarated George Bradshaw. 254 00:20:03,080 --> 00:20:05,400 Oh, and by the way, I get to ride in the cab, too! 255 00:20:09,240 --> 00:20:15,920 Driver Darren Stevens is going to demonstrate how modern track allows high speed travel. 256 00:20:15,920 --> 00:20:19,040 Darren, this is very exciting, isn't it? 257 00:20:19,040 --> 00:20:22,040 Already you can feel the thing really thrusting forward. 258 00:20:22,040 --> 00:20:23,960 You will do when we go into the first tunnel. 259 00:20:23,960 --> 00:20:26,960 I'm looking at a very steep gradient ahead of us, 260 00:20:26,960 --> 00:20:29,880 these trains can really cope with steep gradients, can't they? 261 00:20:29,880 --> 00:20:34,680 They can, yeah - the route's like a roller coaster. As you'll see. 262 00:20:34,680 --> 00:20:41,880 This dedicated fast line was built for Eurostar trains to cut the journey time to the Channel Tunnel. 263 00:20:41,880 --> 00:20:47,000 It opened in 2007 and permits speeds up to 186 miles per hour. 264 00:20:48,600 --> 00:20:53,720 From 2009, it's also carried high speed domestic services to Kent. 265 00:20:53,720 --> 00:20:56,720 This has made a big difference to journey times, hasn't it? Yeah. 266 00:20:56,720 --> 00:21:00,640 We've had nothing but positive feedback from passengers. 267 00:21:00,640 --> 00:21:06,920 I think it's made a big difference to the journey times, it's sliced off somewhere up to an hour. 268 00:21:06,920 --> 00:21:10,400 I spoke to one lady, she was saving over two hours a day. 269 00:21:12,000 --> 00:21:15,000 This new service, transforming commuting, 270 00:21:15,000 --> 00:21:19,440 is reminiscent of the impact that railways had in Bradshaw's day. 271 00:21:19,440 --> 00:21:22,560 Look at your speedometer climb now, it's going crazy, isn't it? 272 00:21:22,560 --> 00:21:26,120 Shooting up to 160, is it going to get to 160? 273 00:21:26,120 --> 00:21:29,440 The acceleration is very good, we're up to 200 now, maximum line speed. 274 00:21:29,440 --> 00:21:32,720 We're allowed to go to 200. Even here in the tunnel? 275 00:21:32,720 --> 00:21:34,920 Yes. We do get up to 225 in the tunnels. 276 00:21:41,240 --> 00:21:45,320 Wow, this is awesome. This is the newest tunnel under the Thames. 277 00:21:45,320 --> 00:21:49,720 Mr Brunel would be impressed and Mr Bradshaw would be exhilarated. 278 00:21:49,720 --> 00:21:52,640 This is my stop, Chatham. 279 00:21:52,640 --> 00:21:54,840 I've really enjoyed the ride. Thank you so much. 280 00:21:54,840 --> 00:21:57,280 Thanks for being here. Safe journey. 281 00:21:57,280 --> 00:22:02,600 In the 19th century, Chatham had one of the greatest shipyards 282 00:22:02,600 --> 00:22:07,680 in the country which not surprisingly, features strongly in my guidebook. 283 00:22:07,680 --> 00:22:10,520 "The dockyard, to be seen by application at the gate, 284 00:22:10,520 --> 00:22:16,520 "was commenced by Queen Elizabeth, following the wise policy of her father, and is about a mile long." 285 00:22:16,520 --> 00:22:21,640 And I'm going to see what I think is a really vital part of British naval history. 286 00:22:24,320 --> 00:22:29,560 My Bradshaw's goes on to describe the vast array of facilities at the dockyard. 287 00:22:29,560 --> 00:22:34,240 "It contains six building slips, wet and dry docks, 288 00:22:34,240 --> 00:22:41,280 "rope house, 1,140ft long, oar and block machinery by Brunel." 289 00:22:41,280 --> 00:22:45,160 The list goes on. At the time of writing, England was still 290 00:22:45,160 --> 00:22:50,120 on the defensive against France in the wake of the Napoleonic Wars. 291 00:22:50,120 --> 00:22:55,360 With fear of European invasion ever in the air, and the arrival of new technology, 292 00:22:55,360 --> 00:23:00,480 the dockyard was rapidly expanded, from 80 acres to over 600. 293 00:23:02,520 --> 00:23:10,480 Well, I've come down now to the dockyard and I am just very impressed by the scale, it is huge. 294 00:23:10,480 --> 00:23:14,040 It reeks of history. Some beautiful historic buildings. 295 00:23:15,320 --> 00:23:20,840 Such an extensive dockyard in Bradshaw's day required its own network of tracks. 296 00:23:20,840 --> 00:23:22,480 Hello, Richard. 297 00:23:22,480 --> 00:23:27,280 'Richard Holdsworth is the museum and heritage director at Chatham.' 298 00:23:27,280 --> 00:23:30,760 I assume that the place was so big it needed a railway? 299 00:23:30,760 --> 00:23:36,640 It had a huge transport system, the railway arrived in the dockyard in 1879 and for the next 20 years 300 00:23:36,640 --> 00:23:41,280 the dockyard was building standard gauge railway lines across its entire length 301 00:23:41,280 --> 00:23:43,640 and that process went on until the 20th century. 302 00:23:43,640 --> 00:23:47,520 You could bring trains off the national system 303 00:23:47,520 --> 00:23:50,800 right into the yard? Right into the yard. They were carrying 304 00:23:50,800 --> 00:23:55,200 the sorts of material needed to build ships, specialist tools, equipment, 305 00:23:55,200 --> 00:23:56,520 guns, things like that. 306 00:23:58,560 --> 00:24:04,040 The railways were crucial to keeping Britain at the forefront of naval engineering. 307 00:24:04,040 --> 00:24:10,080 In the late 1800s, trains hauled in the materials required for shipbuilding 308 00:24:10,080 --> 00:24:15,040 and the technology of steam was used to modernise the vessels. 309 00:24:15,040 --> 00:24:21,920 The Victorians had created a vast global empire and Chatham supplied the latest warships to defend it. 310 00:24:21,920 --> 00:24:26,040 HMS Gannet strikes me as a pretty unusual ship, because it's both sail and steam. 311 00:24:26,040 --> 00:24:29,040 That's right, she's transitional period. 312 00:24:29,040 --> 00:24:34,320 Really, the heyday of the dockyard of the navy in Victorian times 313 00:24:34,320 --> 00:24:37,560 when Britain's navy is projecting power across the world. 314 00:24:37,560 --> 00:24:43,040 These are the sorts of ships designed to patrol the widest flung parts of Empire. 315 00:24:43,040 --> 00:24:50,360 From about 1892 to 1905, 250,000 tonnes of warship entered the Medway from the slips behind me 316 00:24:50,360 --> 00:24:55,440 and they were the cream of the Royal Navy, the envy of the world. 317 00:24:55,440 --> 00:24:59,880 Chatham was at the core of ship construction and ship repair. 318 00:25:01,560 --> 00:25:06,680 The vast new docks and the new technologies became a tourist attraction in themselves. 319 00:25:06,680 --> 00:25:11,080 Visitors came to marvel as up to 2,500 craftsmen 320 00:25:11,080 --> 00:25:16,560 readied the ships for sea and produced essential naval equipment like ropes. 321 00:25:16,560 --> 00:25:20,480 It strikes me as ironic that one of things which survived was the ropery 322 00:25:20,480 --> 00:25:24,760 as when you move form sail to steam, you'd need fewer ropes? 323 00:25:24,760 --> 00:25:30,800 That's true and from 1866 onwards, the navy cut down the rope it used, 324 00:25:30,800 --> 00:25:35,000 but in the heyday, it had four roperies of its own and bought a huge amount in commercially. 325 00:25:35,000 --> 00:25:38,880 When built, the ropery was the longest brick building in Europe. 326 00:25:38,880 --> 00:25:42,960 It's still used for the same purpose as in Bradshaw's time. 327 00:25:42,960 --> 00:25:46,360 Nothing prepares you for that, does it? It's endless. 328 00:25:46,360 --> 00:25:49,120 It's one of the seven wonders of the world. 329 00:25:49,120 --> 00:25:52,120 This is the oldest rope manufacturer in Britain. 330 00:25:52,120 --> 00:25:55,280 The building is so long because the strands of rope had to be 331 00:25:55,280 --> 00:25:58,320 laid out to their full length before being twisted. 332 00:26:00,040 --> 00:26:04,920 The length of the room is just so you can make these enormous stretches of rope. 333 00:26:04,920 --> 00:26:09,160 The length of the room is designed so the navy could make rope in 120 fathoms 334 00:26:09,160 --> 00:26:13,040 and that works out today as 220 metres. 335 00:26:13,040 --> 00:26:17,360 That is the international length of a standard coil of rope. 336 00:26:17,360 --> 00:26:21,920 Today the ropery makes natural fibre ropes for theatres and zoos 337 00:26:21,920 --> 00:26:26,600 as well as boats, pleasure cruisers and the Ministry of Defence. 338 00:26:26,600 --> 00:26:31,520 This scene, I could have seen at any time in the last 200 years? 339 00:26:31,520 --> 00:26:38,920 It's a process going on today as it has for a couple of hundred years, and it's a commercial venture. 340 00:26:43,920 --> 00:26:47,440 Following my Bradshaw's around Britain, it's useful to remember 341 00:26:47,440 --> 00:26:51,800 that the Victorians enjoyed one of the longest periods of peace in British history. 342 00:26:51,800 --> 00:26:55,280 Yet the danger posed by France at the beginning of the 19th century 343 00:26:55,280 --> 00:27:00,280 made them guard fiercely both homeland and Empire. 344 00:27:00,280 --> 00:27:04,840 It can sometimes be difficult to grasp the mentality of Bradshaw's era. 345 00:27:04,840 --> 00:27:10,480 They believed in Empire, an idea that's passed from fashion, and just as well. 346 00:27:10,480 --> 00:27:12,760 But when I was in Brunel's Thames Tunnel, 347 00:27:12,760 --> 00:27:17,960 I was struck that we're still using and adapting Victorian engineering. 348 00:27:17,960 --> 00:27:24,720 The reason is that the same qualities that inspired the Victorians to global supremacy 349 00:27:24,720 --> 00:27:30,400 were the ones that led them, those remarkable ancestors, to build to last. 350 00:27:35,840 --> 00:27:40,760 On my next journey, I'll be hopping with excitement, Victorian style. 351 00:27:40,760 --> 00:27:43,840 I just yank this? Give it a good pull. 352 00:27:46,040 --> 00:27:50,520 Discovering the secrets of paper from one of the country's leading experts. 353 00:27:50,520 --> 00:27:54,200 Would you like to know where this paper was made? 354 00:27:54,200 --> 00:27:56,400 Don't tell me you can tell that. I can. 355 00:27:56,400 --> 00:28:01,120 And learning how the trains transported a very English game all over the country. 356 00:28:01,120 --> 00:28:06,360 If you look at the map of expansion of the rail network around England and Scotland, 357 00:28:06,360 --> 00:28:09,480 cricket follows those lines. 358 00:28:26,840 --> 00:28:29,720 Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd 359 00:28:29,720 --> 00:28:32,240 E-mail subtitling@bbc.co.uk