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In 1840, one man transformed
travel in Britain.

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His name was George Bradshaw, and
his railway guides inspired the
Victorians to take to the tracks.

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Stop by stop,
he told them where to travel,
what to see, and where to stay.

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Now, 170 years later, I'm making a
series of journeys across the length

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and breath of the country,
to see what of Bradshaw's Britain remains.

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Using my Victorian Bradshaw's guide,
I'm beginning a journey up the

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west coast of Scotland, the
northern part, the west Highland line,

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was recently reported on one
travel survey the world's most

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scenic railway. Trains brought
tourists to places previously

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accessible only to deer and sheep.
19th century novels romantised

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Highland culture, and Queen Victoria
began the royal habit of holidaying
North of the border.

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Bradshaw helps in understanding
those social changes.

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As the railways reached the
Highlands, the guide books

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provided useful tips for those
travelling north. On this stretch

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of the journey, I'll discover why
19th century Paisley was a magnet

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for Italians.
Seeing how the railways helped golf

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to flourish in Scotland. It was
1925, and there was something like

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20,000 people came on the
railway from Glasgow.

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And celebrating haggis, in the home
town of poet Robert Burns.

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Fantastic!
Starting on the Ayrshire coast,
this journey takes me north

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to join the stunning west Highland
line. I will be following its path

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through some of the Highlands' most
dramatic scenery, and I will end up

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on the Hebridean island of Skye.
My route today begins in Ayr, then

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up the track to Prestwick, my last
stop will be one of the great
Victorian textile towns, Paisley.

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I'm travelling through a county

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with a rich industrial past. This
is Ayrshire, and my Bradshaw's

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guide says it has abundant mines of
coal, free stone, limestone, iron, lead

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and copper, and from the great
abundance of seaweed, which is cast

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ashore, vast quantities of kelp is
made. Like in many place, the

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railways were built originally for
coal, it wasn't too long before the

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companies realised they had to make
provision for passengers too.

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This line opened to passengers in

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1839, and in the first year alone
it was used by 137,000 people.

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It developed into a busy commuter
route, linking Glasgow with the
pretty coastal town of Ayr.

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My Bradshaw's refers to Ayr as a

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port at the mouth of the Ayr water,
a picturesque stream, and says
that about 5,000 tonnes of

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shipping are registered here.
Before Glasgow rose to prominence,

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this was the stepping off point for
trade with the Western Isles. Even

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in Bradshaw's day, tourists were
coming here, this is what my guide

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book refers to as the land of Burns.

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Celebrity fascinated Victorians.
Using trains they could visit
places made famous by literature,

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or gawp at the birth place of a
popular writer like Robert Burns,

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it stands close to Ayr, and my
guide book says "Innumberable

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pilgrims from all lands visit these
scenes, and the poet's residence to

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gaze upon what has been charmed and
sanctified by his genius".

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Bradshaw's listing for Ayr,
contains three columns of quotes

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from Burns. But no verse perhaps is
more famous than that in which the

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great Scottish poet elevated a
humble Scottish peasant dish, to

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the status of international celebrity.
With his address to a haggis.

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The poem is recited every January

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at Burns night suppers, although
tongue-in-cheek it's a proud

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celebration of Scottish cuisine.
"Fair fa' your honest, sonsie face,
Great chieftain o' the pudding-race!".

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Those verses brought haggis to global
renown, and the railways enabled many

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outside Scotland to have their first taste.
I'm meeting award winning haggis baker
Stewart Duguid to chart it's rise to fame.

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While I'm in Burns country, I
thought I would find out more about
haggis? You have picked the right

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place to come to. How did it start?
It goes back to the days when the

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gentry ate the lamb, and the
peasants ate the offal, they made

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it into a meal. Traditionally it
was a pudding made for poor people?

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Without a doubt. It is immortalised
now. By Robbie Burns, did he write

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that address to the haggis, did he
write it as a joke, forgive me?

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my God, no, don't say that to a
Scottish man, either. It was a

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completely serious thing? It was a
serious poem, he was serious about it.

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Then it becomes, thanks to
Robbie Burns, a dish that is craved,

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even in London? Oh yes, not just in
London, all over. Fortunately the

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railway station just along the road
there, we send a tremendous amount

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of haggis down south, by railway.
Do you think the railway itself

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helped the export of haggis to
outside Scotland? Of course it did,

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it was the only way of transporting
it in the early days by rail. There

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was a problem with refrigeration,
but it worked. Once it's cooked

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it has a seven-day shelf life.
I'm looking forward to seeing how

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you make them. We're ready for you,
with the coat and hat. I'm ready too.

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Bradshaw's says of haggis, "it's
ingredients are oat meal, suet,

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pepper, and is usually boiled in a sheep's stomach".
But perhaps for fear of putting people off,

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it doesn't mention the most
important ingredient.

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This is the heart, lungs, and liver.
That's the raw material.

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We cook these, probably about 200
pound at a time for a batch size.

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That is the size it cooks down to.
Once everything is mixed up, it's time

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to make the haggis, sheep's
stomachs are used for the largest,

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and intestines for the smaller ones.
Hold it firm, and again. Oh dear!
Try another one. 

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Well done, well done, keep
it firm. Let it slide

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now slightly. Perfect. Lovely.
So what we're going to do is open the

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oven up there and bring one exactly like
that. You have actually made a haggis.

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Aren't they beautiful.
Now is your chance, Michael, we

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would like you to taste this.
That is great honour. Before you do so,

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you have to recite the poem, we
will ask you to do the first verse.

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"Fair fa' your honest, sonsie face,
Great chieftain o' the pudding-race!
Aboon them a' yet tak your place,

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Painch, tripe, or thairm:
Weel are ye wordy o'a grace
As lang's my arm."

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What do I do now? Slice it open. Look at that.
That is not how I normally do it
I pick it out with my fingers!

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Marvellous, it has a bit of an edge
to it. A lovely, lovely haggis.

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Bradshaw says haggis is "a heavy yet
by no means disagreeable dish", and I

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don't argue with that.
It's now time to leave Ayr and

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catch the train a few miles up the
line to Prestwick.

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The tracks running up this stretch
of coast offer wonderful views

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across the Firth of Clyde.

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In the 19th century, the new
railway allowed wealthy Glaswegians

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to move out to this beautiful
scenery, turning Prestwick into a

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haven for commuters.

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This is Prestwick Town, which
scarcely gets a mention in
Bradshaw's, because it was just a

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tiny village on the edge of Troon,
but when the rail link arrived here,
that was the moment

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when the middle-classes from
Glasgow could build their

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magnificent villas here, to take
advantage of the sea views and the

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vistor over towards the Isle of Arran,
and with the railway coming here

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in 1840, it was 11 years later they
put in the golf course, and the

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best view of the golf course is
from the station.

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When my guide book was published,
Prestwick was poised to become one

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of Scotland's most important golf
courses. As club secretary, Ian

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Bunch explains. What fantastic
course? Welcome to Prestwick.

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This is the home of Open Golf
in Scotland? The first Open

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Championship was held here in 1860,
only eight people took part in that Open.

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It was Tom Morris, his
concept, and they sent invitations

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out to the leading clubs for them
to put forward players to play in

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this Open event. I suppose then the
railways did make it possible for

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it to become a big spectator event?
The last Open we held here was 1925,

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and there is something like 20,000
people came on the railway from

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Glasgow. How fantastic. Forgive me,
it must have been quite difficult

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to control 20,000 people in this
size of course? That is why we no

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longer have the Open championship,
because the crowd control, there

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was none. Everyone was on the
fairways in those days, they

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followed the match. You had all the
people bottlenecking, that was the

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last Open in 1925 that we had.

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Golf originated in 15th century
Scotland. In the railway age it
spread rapidly. By the 1900s there

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were over 1300 courses in Britain.
Have the railways played an

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important part in the history of golf?
Very important, if you think

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of a links course, it is beside a
railway station, it was more

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holidays, Industrial Revolution,
people had working week down to 55

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hours, they had more time and could
play golf. In those days you didn't

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have a car or a boot to sling the
clubs in, you put them on the train.

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Absolutely.
It was horse and cart or train.
Railways offered cheap tickets and

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deals for golfers. Here railway
staff made special arrangements so

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players didn't miss their train.
In days gone by the station master

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used to have a bell which he would
ring, which would ring in the bar,

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to advise that the train was going
to arrive within five minutes. We

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had a wonderful relationship with
the railways in days gone by.

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Just time to drink up and go? Absolutely.
In Prestwick the memory of the

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railway's hey day is cherished.
I have a good story about railways

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and golf. The ladies playing in
Prestwick long ago in the 1920s of

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steam trains, and the train came
into the station as she drove, and

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she sliced it over the wall out of
bounds, hit the train, came back on

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the course, and as she walked up
the driver leaned out and said that

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was lucky. Are you playing tomorrow.
And she said, yes I've got a

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tee time at 1.00, he said he would
try and be here. Golf is something

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I'm leaving for later life. So I
had best just head off in search of

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tonight's hotel.
Prestwick's good rail links to

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Glasgow led to a building boom in
the 19th century, and rows of

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elegant terraces sprang up.
And one of them is rather special.

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I'm now just a stone's throw from
the golf course, and my bed tonight

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will be in one of those mid-19th
century villas, this one was built

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for John Keppie, who was an
architect and a friend of Charles

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Renny Mackintosh, I hope when I
embark on my journey tomorrow my

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head will be full of grand designs.
Mackintosh, Scotland's most famous

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architect, often spent time in this
house, it is easy to see why he

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loved Prestwick. This quiet,
coastal town provided him with the

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necessary peace for creativity.

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That looks lovely, thank you very much.
After a hearty Ayrshire breakfast,

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it's time to continue my journey,
starting back as Prestwick station,
to catch my next train.

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I'm on my way to Paisley,
travelling through

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Renfrewshire. Bradshaw says this
county contains many manufacturing

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towns and villages, bounded by the
Firth of Clyde and the Clyde river.
He talks about the

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industry and enterprise of the
inhabitants, about extensive

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machinery, in immense buildings
where hundreds of human beings are

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actively engaged in manufacturing.
It is a very telling description of

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an industrious and industrialised
county at the beginning of the

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second half of the 19th century.
In Bradshaw's day, these parts were

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being transformed from tranquil
villages into substantial

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industrial towns.
My next stop is a good example.

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I have now arrived at the very
Victorian-feeling station of
Paisley Gilmore Street, my

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Bradshaw's says of Paisley, it is a
thriving seat of the cotton trade,

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with a population of about 47,952
don't you love that combination

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of approximation and precision.

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In the 19th century, Paisley was one of

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Britain's most productive textile
towns. It gave its name to the

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Indian-inspired shawls, patterned
with the iconic teardrop.

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But Victorian Paisley produced a fabric
with origins closer to home. In the

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mid-19th century, Paisley was a
town of weavers, and the cottage

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industry had given way to big new
mills. With tourists pouring into

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Scotland on the trains, and the
royal interest in all matters

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Scottish, there was a tartan craze,
and the mills were churning out

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mile after mile of the stuff.
It was being exported everywhere,

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beginning its journey, of course,
by rail. Sad to remember, just a

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century before Victoria's reign,
tartan was almost lost forever.

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The Highlanders who supported Bonnie
Prince Charley's uprising had been

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defeated by Government troops at the
Battle of Culloden. The director of the
Scottish Tartan Authority, knows

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the story. After Culloden what
happens to the Highlanders ?

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The first blow was that tartan was banned
from 1747 until 1782. That resulted in many

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of the old looms being lost, many
of the old patterns being lost.

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That very proud and unique identity of
the Highlanders was taken away from them.

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They were made to wear trousser, to

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them they were impractical and not Scottish.

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The authorities tried to suppress
the rebellious Highlanders by

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destroying their culture. They
didn't quite succeed in killing off

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tartan. Tartan goes from being banned in

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the Highlands to being an English
fashion accesssory for Londoners,

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how did that happen? A remarkable
coincidence of events. George IV

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was invited to Edinburgh in 1822,
orchestrated by Sir Walter Scott.

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When he arrived in Edinburgh he was
kitted out from top to toe in

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tartan, and even wore some pink
tights, that didn't go down too

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well. In the invitation to the clan
chiefs to come to meet the king,

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Walter Scott said dress in your
clan tartans, many didn't know what

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the tartans were, because of the
previous ban. They were scrabbling

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around going to the weavers,
talking to the old people in the

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Klan asking did they remember the
tartan. At this point, two young

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men appeared, the Sebvesky brothers
claimed to be grandsons of Bonnie

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Prince Charlie and said they
discovered an ancient document that

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could solve the problem. They said
they had a rare document which

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detailed in minute detail Scottish
clan tartans, not just for the

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Highlanders, but also for the
lowlanders and people on the

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borders, families on the borders
who had never had tartan before.

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Walter Scott was very suspicious of
this, but the rest of Scottish

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society welcomed these with open
arms because of this romantic wave.

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The brothers produced a dictionary
of tartans, allowing many clans and

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families to lay claim to ancestoral
pattern, tartan sales began to take off.

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Do you think the railways helped to

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spread the tartan mania in the
Victorian period? We are positive

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they had a very great effect.
Not only did they provide a

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marvellously improved means of
transport, to get tartans from the

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Highlands down to the market in the
south, but they also, on the return

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journey, brought the tourists with
them, who would come into the

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Highlands and would buy tartan.
I think it was a marvellously

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symbiotic relationship. The public was
so infatuated with tartan, that the

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book's authenticity went
unchallenged. Many of today's

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tartans turned out at the end of
the day to be forgies.
The book was a fraud ?

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Yes, gifted forgies because they were
very imaginative, but the Klans

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accepted them and that makes up
many of todays clan tartan books.

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What tartan are you wearing?
Fraser tartan. Your family tartan?

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My grandmother was a Fraser.
And you're sure it's genuine?

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It better be, she will be in trouble
if it isn't. It seems that many

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ancient tartans were invented in
Bradshaw's day. Now anyone can

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design and register a new one. But
for traditionalists the idea of

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clan weaves has stuck. We're an
offshoot of the MacKay tartan but
I don't know a great deal about it.

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Would you have an idea what it
looks like? A green background, the

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other colour no. Do you lay claim
to any tartan yourself? I don't,

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I'm Italian and English. Would you
wear one? I know I can't. I have

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been told I can only wear Black
Watch because I'm not Scottish.

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Did you know there was a connection
between Paisley and an Italian town?

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It's to do with fish and chips and
ice-cream. The Italians know their food.

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Paisley has an Italian

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community that dates back to
Victorian times. When the railways

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brought thousands of immigrants to
South-West Scotland. I'm meeting

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Scots Italian, Ronnie Convery in
one of Paisley's oldest fish and

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00:22:22,344 --> 00:22:29,984
chip shops. Nice to see you. What
is the connection between Paisley

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and "La bella Italia"? It goes back
a long way, Italy we think of as

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a stylistic capital, but in the
19th century it had incredible

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poverty and failed harvests. So
Italians left Tuscany to come to

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places like this. This was regarded
as the place to make a new life. They

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came through London and spread out
from London, following the railway

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lines through centres like Glasgow
and Paisley. Here, in this part of

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Scotland, the majority of the
Italian community come from one

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tiny little village high in the
alps called Barga. In the 19th

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century the people of Barga were
hit by famine, as the railways

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spread through Europe, some were
able to escape, many ended up in

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Paisley hoping to make their
fortunes. Why have we met in a fish

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and chip shop? That's another story.
When the Italians came they were

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hawkers, ice-cream became the trade
on barrows. An interesting thing,

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in our health and safety obsessed
world, in those days they used to

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sell ice-cream in little glass cups
they would lick the ice-cream out

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and hand it back. It was only in
1905 that an Italian from

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Manchester invented the cone.
That hasn't got us to fish and chips yet ?

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Ice-cream isn't great seller in the
winter. Italians being here, not

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wishing to take the jobs of the
local community had to find

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something new. Fish and chips
wasn't new to Italians, it was sold

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in London by Greeks, but seeing the
market they took it outside London,

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and it's a very easy thing to set
up. There's an endless supply of

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potatoes in Britain, and a
reasonably endless supply of fish.

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How big did this trend grow, were
there lots of Italian fish and chip

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and ice-cream shops? Between 1890
and 1910, the Italian population of

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Scotland quadrupled, but the number
of ice-cream and fish and chip

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shops increased ten-fold. Out of
the large number of Italian fish

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and chip shops, that once graced
Paisley, only a handful have

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survived. I was struck, I have just
come into this fish and chip shop,

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an Italian fish and chip shop, but it
has a Scottish name? Yes, Allen's,

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there are a few like that called
the Savoy Cafe. That is because of

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the war time experience of the
Italians, when Mussolini entered

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the war in 1940, Churchill said
collar the lot, the whole community,

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men up to 70 were arrested and
interned. The impact of the war

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time experience was extreme on the
Italian community, a scar on their

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psyche. So much after the war,
there was an incredible desire to

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integrate and not stand out from
the crowd. Scots Italians now feel

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so at home here that they
invent their own tartan.

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Recently another guy in the
community decided it would be

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good idea to create a Scottish Italian
tartan. He used all the colours, the

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blue of the Italian national football
strip, the green, white and red of

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00:25:58,272 --> 00:26:02,272
the flag, and applied to the
national tartans authority, and

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00:26:02,272 --> 00:26:06,068
obtained their permission to have
the first approved ethnic tartan.

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Given your shirt and tie, you may get away
with that today. That is an example

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00:26:11,324 --> 00:26:16,864
of integration. That is super, I
wouldn't have known that wasn't

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00:26:16,904 --> 00:26:20,004
just a pure Scottish tartan?
It could be Macbeth or McDonald.

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00:26:20,044 --> 00:26:26,208
I see, the blue of the Italian
football team, of course the green,

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00:26:26,208 --> 00:26:29,600
white and red. That is the giveaway
if you know where to look.

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00:26:30,640 --> 00:26:40,412
Parle Italiano? Si.
Where are you from?
I'm Scottish but

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00:26:40,452 --> 00:26:45,164
speak a bit of Italian. You know
about your Italian roots? Oh yeah,

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00:26:45,204 --> 00:26:51,788
this is my grandfather's shop.
How lovely, do you do ice-cream as well

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00:26:51,828 --> 00:26:56,476
as fish and chips? Yes, but our
speciality is haddock and chips, I

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have a nice haddock coming out of
the pan if you want it. I've just

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00:26:59,576 --> 00:27:10,352
had a spaghetti. You come here
and When Do We Eat pasta not fish

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and chips. Look what you could have had.

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My Bradshaw's guide has helped me
to understand the traditions and the

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myths that make the Scots special.
It struck me on the journey today

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how very influential Scotland has
been in the world. Golf is game

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00:27:30,836 --> 00:27:35,316
that's played everywhere, and
Scotch whiskey is enjoyed

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00:27:35,356 --> 00:27:40,392
universally. Wherever you go in the
world, people know that haggis and

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00:27:40,392 --> 00:27:44,132
tartan are Scottish, and for such a
small country, to have such an

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00:27:44,172 --> 00:27:53,020
impact, strikes me as remarkable.
Since my mother is a Scot, I feel
entitled to feel a little proud.

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On my next journey, I'll be
discovering how Queen Victoria

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00:28:05,864 --> 00:28:10,004
attracted train loads of tourists
to Loch Lomond.

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00:28:11,044 --> 00:28:17,600
This is very valuable, I can see
it's signed by Victoria.

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00:28:17,600 --> 00:28:23,564
Finding out how Scottish timber
fuelled the railway boom. We have
fast-growing trees for things like

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railway sleepers, that was one of
the big demands in the 19th century.

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And learning how a great sailing ship
took her name from a witch in a poem.

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It comes from a Burns poem, Tam o' Shanta.
He can't help himself and jumps up and
shouts, "Weel done 'cutty sark'!".

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