0 00:00:05,760 --> 00:00:10,436 In 1 840, one man transformed travel In BrItaIn. 1 00:00:10,560 --> 00:00:12,994 HIs name was George Bradshaw 2 00:00:13,120 --> 00:00:17,511 and hIs raIlway guIdes InspIred the VIctorIans to take to the tracks. 3 00:00:18,320 --> 00:00:19,673 Stop by stop, 4 00:00:19,800 --> 00:00:21,552 he told them where to travel, 5 00:00:21,680 --> 00:00:23,796 what to see, and where to stay. 6 00:00:25,680 --> 00:00:27,750 Now, 1 70 years later, 7 00:00:27,880 --> 00:00:31,668 I'm makIng a serIes ofjourneys across the length and breadth of the country 8 00:00:31,800 --> 00:00:34,678 to see what of Bradshaw's BrItaIn remaIns. 9 00:00:57,000 --> 00:01:01,152 Guided, as ever, by my Bradshaw's, I've embarked on a new journey 10 00:01:01,280 --> 00:01:03,794 from the roIIing countryside of Oxfordshire 11 00:01:03,920 --> 00:01:07,595 to the mining and smeIting heartIands of South WaIes. 12 00:01:07,720 --> 00:01:09,358 During the IndustriaI RevoIution, 13 00:01:09,480 --> 00:01:13,029 the Victorians expIoited the fruits of this Iand, 14 00:01:13,160 --> 00:01:16,118 transforming the country and its cities. 15 00:01:16,240 --> 00:01:21,997 And as ever, the cataIyst for that change was the arrivaI of the raiIways. 16 00:01:23,080 --> 00:01:26,436 I'm begInnIng In a quIntessentIally EnglIsh regIon. 17 00:01:26,560 --> 00:01:29,677 Its tImeless beauty and quIrky tradItIons are all recorded 18 00:01:29,800 --> 00:01:32,268 In my 19th-century guIdebook. 19 00:01:32,400 --> 00:01:34,755 On thIs leg of thejourney, I'll be seeIng Oxford 20 00:01:34,880 --> 00:01:36,279 through Bradshaw's eyes... 21 00:01:36,400 --> 00:01:40,757 It's reaIIy worth the cIimb. That is the most fantastic view. 22 00:01:40,880 --> 00:01:43,553 ..samplIng a VIctorIan navvy's favourIte brew... 23 00:01:43,680 --> 00:01:47,355 Cheers. You couId buiId a raiIway once you've drunk that, couIdn't you? 24 00:01:47,480 --> 00:01:51,473 ..and dIscoverIng a surprIsIng crop In the heart of the Cotswolds. 25 00:01:51,600 --> 00:01:54,797 This is the most unexpected sight. 26 00:01:54,920 --> 00:01:57,036 SuddenIy this riot of coIour. 27 00:01:59,960 --> 00:02:03,236 ThIsjourney starts In the heart of England. 28 00:02:03,360 --> 00:02:07,831 TakIng me west through the Malvern HIlls and across the Welsh border. 29 00:02:07,960 --> 00:02:11,669 I'll then travel through the IndustrIal powerhouse of South Wales, 30 00:02:11,800 --> 00:02:14,030 fInIshIng up In MIIford Haven. 31 00:02:17,360 --> 00:02:19,635 StartIng In hIstorIc Oxford, 32 00:02:19,760 --> 00:02:22,911 thIs stretch explores the pIcture-postcard landscape 33 00:02:23,040 --> 00:02:24,234 of the Cotswold hIlls 34 00:02:24,360 --> 00:02:28,319 as far as a Pershore, near the agrIcultural vale of Evesham. 35 00:02:30,760 --> 00:02:32,432 My fIrst stop Is Oxford, 36 00:02:32,560 --> 00:02:36,473 known as home to one of BrItaIn's best unIversItIes. 37 00:02:38,080 --> 00:02:39,433 According to my Bradshaw's, 38 00:02:39,560 --> 00:02:43,075 Oxford University has an advantage over Cambridge 39 00:02:43,200 --> 00:02:45,919 in being pIaced among more attractive scenery 40 00:02:46,040 --> 00:02:50,795 and combining a greater variety of spIendid architecture. 41 00:02:50,920 --> 00:02:53,434 That judgment iII be highIy controversiaI 42 00:02:53,560 --> 00:02:57,235 amongst peopIe, Iike me, who went to Cambridge. 43 00:03:01,360 --> 00:03:03,351 Whatever my personal vIews, 44 00:03:03,480 --> 00:03:08,679 there's no dIsputIng that Oxford Is a wonderfully preserved hIstorIc cIty. 45 00:03:09,840 --> 00:03:14,516 After the raIlway arrIved here In the 1 840s, It brought new waves of tourIsts 46 00:03:14,640 --> 00:03:16,631 to admIre the dreamIng spIres 47 00:03:16,760 --> 00:03:19,149 and provIded a speedy way for students to travel 48 00:03:19,280 --> 00:03:22,875 to and from theIr venerable seat of learnIng. 49 00:03:23,000 --> 00:03:26,310 Many of Oxford's beautIful buIldIngs and ancIent tradItIons 50 00:03:26,440 --> 00:03:28,032 date back to medIeval tImes, 51 00:03:28,160 --> 00:03:33,917 but the 19th century also left Its mark, IntroducIng competItIve rowIng, puntIng 52 00:03:34,040 --> 00:03:36,395 and the bIcycle to the cIty. 53 00:03:36,520 --> 00:03:38,431 My ''Bradshaw's GuIde'' waxes lyrIcal 54 00:03:38,560 --> 00:03:41,438 about seeIng the Oxford panorama from above. 55 00:03:41,560 --> 00:03:43,312 To see how the modern vIew measures up, 56 00:03:43,440 --> 00:03:46,830 I'm meetIng ChrIs Kissane at Merton College. 57 00:03:46,960 --> 00:03:48,996 - Chris, heIIo. - HeIIo, MichaeI. 58 00:03:49,120 --> 00:03:51,031 - Great to see you. - Nice to meet you. 59 00:03:51,160 --> 00:03:53,435 Oxford is a city to be proud of. 60 00:03:53,560 --> 00:03:55,198 It reaIIy is, it's a wonderfuI city. 61 00:03:55,320 --> 00:03:56,639 What's your connection? 62 00:03:56,760 --> 00:03:58,637 I'm a student here now at BaIIioI CoIIege 63 00:03:58,760 --> 00:04:01,558 and when I was born, my dad was a student at Merton CoIIege, 64 00:04:01,680 --> 00:04:03,432 so we Iived in coIIege accommodation. 65 00:04:03,560 --> 00:04:05,278 You were born ithin Merton CoIIege. 66 00:04:05,400 --> 00:04:07,960 Yeah, I'm an Irishman but Oxford is home away from home. 67 00:04:08,080 --> 00:04:09,832 Merton is the oIdest coIIege? 68 00:04:09,960 --> 00:04:12,474 We, in BaIIioI, cIaim to be the oIdest coIIege as weII, 69 00:04:12,600 --> 00:04:16,036 but to avoid famiIy arguments we'II agree to disagree. 70 00:04:16,160 --> 00:04:18,276 You're cIutching a very impressive key. 71 00:04:18,400 --> 00:04:21,949 I'm Iucky enough to get the key to the tower of Merton CoIIege ChapeI, 72 00:04:22,080 --> 00:04:24,833 one of the oIdest remaining MedievaI buiIdings in Oxford. 73 00:04:24,960 --> 00:04:28,032 We're going to have Iook up the top and see the view of the city. 74 00:04:28,160 --> 00:04:29,229 I can't wait, Iead me on. 75 00:04:29,360 --> 00:04:31,112 - OK. - Thank you. 76 00:04:33,360 --> 00:04:36,432 Merton Isjust one of dozens of Independent colleges 77 00:04:36,560 --> 00:04:38,437 that make up the unIversIty. 78 00:04:38,560 --> 00:04:42,189 Each adds Its own dIstInctIve archItecture to the cIty skylIne, 79 00:04:42,320 --> 00:04:45,630 creatIng the vIew that my guIdebook so admIres. 80 00:04:46,360 --> 00:04:50,512 It's reaIIy worth the cIimb, isn't it? That is the most fantastic view. 81 00:04:50,640 --> 00:04:53,438 It's extraordinary. It's inspiring, isn't it? 82 00:04:53,560 --> 00:04:56,836 What Bradshaw says is that it's the concentration, 83 00:04:56,960 --> 00:05:00,032 the combination of buiIdings, that makes Oxford so great. 84 00:05:00,160 --> 00:05:01,957 I think that's true. He says, 85 00:05:02,080 --> 00:05:04,913 ''The city presents a very imposing appearance, 86 00:05:05,040 --> 00:05:09,431 from the number and variety of its spires, domes and pubIic edifices, 87 00:05:09,560 --> 00:05:13,235 whiIe these structures, from their magnitude and spIendid architecture, 88 00:05:13,360 --> 00:05:16,955 give it an air of great magnificence.'' A pretty good description, isn't it? 89 00:05:17,080 --> 00:05:17,876 Very apt, yes. 90 00:05:18,000 --> 00:05:20,150 (MIchael) This is Bradshaw's view. 91 00:05:20,280 --> 00:05:22,589 - It hasn't changed very much. - It hasn't. 92 00:05:23,360 --> 00:05:27,069 Oxford Is lucky to have preserved Its stunnIng skylIne. 93 00:05:27,200 --> 00:05:28,519 DurIng the Second World War, 94 00:05:28,640 --> 00:05:32,792 the Luftwaffe delIberately targeted some of BrItaIn's most hIstorIc cItIes, 95 00:05:32,920 --> 00:05:35,036 In a bId to dent morale. 96 00:05:35,160 --> 00:05:38,630 They even used guIdebooks to pInpoInt herItage towns. 97 00:05:38,760 --> 00:05:42,639 But amazIngly, Oxford survIved unscathed. 98 00:05:42,760 --> 00:05:44,432 Why is it so weII preseRVed? 99 00:05:44,560 --> 00:05:46,039 The story goes that HitIer 100 00:05:46,160 --> 00:05:49,869 had his eyes on Oxford's magnificent buiIdings for his capitaI, 101 00:05:50,000 --> 00:05:53,151 if he ever invaded EngIand. Story's never been proven, 102 00:05:53,280 --> 00:05:57,193 but you can understand why anyone wouId be enchanted by the view. 103 00:05:57,840 --> 00:06:03,358 It's a rather grim reason for a very beautifuI suRVivaI. 104 00:06:03,480 --> 00:06:04,515 (ChrIs) It is. 105 00:06:06,160 --> 00:06:09,835 One famous landmark that survIved Is the RadclIffe Camera. 106 00:06:09,960 --> 00:06:11,837 Bradshaw says, ''It's dome Is one of 107 00:06:11,960 --> 00:06:15,077 the most conspIcuous objects In the vIews of Oxford. '' 108 00:06:15,200 --> 00:06:19,079 But, to me, thIs lIbrary Is memorable for another reason. 109 00:06:20,760 --> 00:06:22,273 Even though I was at Cambridge, 110 00:06:22,400 --> 00:06:24,118 when I was running up to some exams, 111 00:06:24,240 --> 00:06:27,437 I did two weeks' revision in the RadcIiffe Camera. 112 00:06:27,560 --> 00:06:29,596 For me, aIthough it's a beautifuI buiIding, 113 00:06:29,720 --> 00:06:33,110 it has that horribIe feeIing of fear when you're running up to an exam. 114 00:06:33,240 --> 00:06:36,915 An experience that I and many Oxford students can definiteIy identify ith. 115 00:06:38,760 --> 00:06:41,399 The unIversIty has always set Oxford apart, 116 00:06:41,520 --> 00:06:43,476 and despIte the arrIval of the raIlway, 117 00:06:43,600 --> 00:06:47,673 the cIty dIdn't develop any major IndustrIes In the 19th century. 118 00:06:47,800 --> 00:06:50,439 But the ever-expandIng academIc communIty 119 00:06:50,560 --> 00:06:53,120 ensured that local trades thrIved. 120 00:06:54,360 --> 00:06:57,079 Bradshaw's says that the high street of Oxford 121 00:06:57,200 --> 00:06:59,839 is justIy considered the finest in EngIand. 122 00:06:59,960 --> 00:07:02,758 ''From the number and eIegance of its pubIic buiIdings 123 00:07:02,880 --> 00:07:04,518 and the remarkabIe cuRVature.'' 124 00:07:04,640 --> 00:07:07,632 And it does indeed resembIe a Iong crescent. 125 00:07:07,760 --> 00:07:12,993 And then it says, ''Oxford has Iong been famous for good sausages.'' 126 00:07:13,120 --> 00:07:14,712 That's news to me. 127 00:07:15,520 --> 00:07:18,432 To see whether sausages are stIll a local delIcacy, 128 00:07:18,560 --> 00:07:20,471 I'm headIng to the covered market. 129 00:07:20,600 --> 00:07:23,319 It was buIlt 230 years ago 130 00:07:23,440 --> 00:07:28,275 to try and rId the cIty centre of unsIghtly and smelly outdoor stalls. 131 00:07:29,160 --> 00:07:32,038 The fIrst busInesses to move In were the butchers 132 00:07:32,160 --> 00:07:34,515 and several stIll prosper here today. 133 00:07:35,760 --> 00:07:38,593 Fantastic dispIay of sausages. 134 00:07:38,720 --> 00:07:41,439 ColIn Dawson has worked here sInce the 1990s. 135 00:07:41,560 --> 00:07:43,118 - CoIin, heIIo. - HeIIo, MichaeI. 136 00:07:43,240 --> 00:07:46,073 I've come in search of sausages. I've come to the right pIace. 137 00:07:46,200 --> 00:07:47,155 You certainIy have. 138 00:07:47,280 --> 00:07:49,510 What about the Oxford sausage? Do you have that? 139 00:07:49,640 --> 00:07:51,198 We do. This is the Oxford sausage. 140 00:07:51,320 --> 00:07:53,151 It's our best-seIIing sausage. 141 00:07:53,280 --> 00:07:56,556 I confess, I've never heard of an Oxford sausage. What do you put in it? 142 00:07:56,680 --> 00:08:00,229 It's pork, Iemon, there's herbs, 143 00:08:00,360 --> 00:08:04,069 there's thyme, parsIey, breadcrumbs. 144 00:08:04,200 --> 00:08:07,670 (MIchael) I'm foIIoing a 19th-century guidebook. WouId it be the same? 145 00:08:07,800 --> 00:08:12,191 No. In those days they used to have veaI and beef suet as weII. 146 00:08:12,320 --> 00:08:15,039 (MIchael) The veaI sounds as if it wouId've been tasty. 147 00:08:15,160 --> 00:08:17,594 What about the beef suet, what wouId that have done? 148 00:08:17,720 --> 00:08:20,917 Beef suet wouId've been very greasy. Make a very greasy sausage. 149 00:08:21,040 --> 00:08:24,157 I think in those days they thought it was good for their heaIth. 150 00:08:24,920 --> 00:08:29,232 Actually, recIpes for Oxford sausages date back to the early 1 8th century, 151 00:08:29,360 --> 00:08:33,797 but It was In VIctorIan tImes that they achIeved natIonal recognItIon. 152 00:08:33,920 --> 00:08:36,559 EvidentIy the Oxford sausage was popuIar in the 1860s. 153 00:08:36,680 --> 00:08:38,238 Where did you get the recipe from? 154 00:08:38,360 --> 00:08:40,874 The recipe was handed down to us from another company, 155 00:08:41,000 --> 00:08:45,516 but in Mrs Beeton's, the Victorian Mrs Beeton, Household Management Book, 156 00:08:45,640 --> 00:08:47,039 the recipe is in there. 157 00:08:47,160 --> 00:08:50,550 That wouId account for why Bradshaw's mentions it, 158 00:08:50,680 --> 00:08:53,240 because she's 1860s as weII, isn't she? 159 00:08:53,360 --> 00:08:55,078 Yeah, 1861 , the book. 160 00:08:55,200 --> 00:08:58,556 Isabella Beeton's book was a hIt wIth the growIng mIddle classes, 161 00:08:58,680 --> 00:09:02,639 seekIng guIdance on how to run a respectable household. 162 00:09:02,760 --> 00:09:08,198 Her recIpe gIves two ways to serve an Oxford sausage, wIth or wIthout skIns. 163 00:09:08,320 --> 00:09:13,075 Apparently the earlIest Oxford sausages resembled our modern hamburgers. 164 00:09:13,200 --> 00:09:16,033 As far as we understand, this is the type of thing... 165 00:09:17,960 --> 00:09:20,793 Just pressed out Iike that. 166 00:09:20,920 --> 00:09:23,354 Then they moved on to sausage a bit Iater in time. 167 00:09:23,480 --> 00:09:25,755 Very good. Despite the historic interest, 168 00:09:25,880 --> 00:09:27,472 I think I'II go for a sausage today. 169 00:09:27,600 --> 00:09:28,555 (ColIn) AII right. 170 00:09:28,680 --> 00:09:31,035 These are the Oxford sausages cooked today. 171 00:09:31,160 --> 00:09:32,912 - BeautifuI. - HeIp yourseIf. 172 00:09:35,760 --> 00:09:37,432 Gosh, that's good. 173 00:09:37,560 --> 00:09:40,233 That is meaty and I can taste the herbs 174 00:09:40,360 --> 00:09:42,237 and I can taste the Iemon, Iots of Iemon. 175 00:09:42,360 --> 00:09:43,952 AbsoIuteIy briIIiant. 176 00:09:44,080 --> 00:09:46,753 That's good. GIad you're enjoying it. 177 00:09:50,160 --> 00:09:53,232 Fuelled by my sausage, I am now leavIng Oxford behInd 178 00:09:53,360 --> 00:09:55,476 to head Into the pIcturesque Cotswolds. 179 00:09:57,120 --> 00:09:59,873 The lIne I'm followIng was buIlt In the 1 850s, 180 00:10:00,000 --> 00:10:04,278 under the supervIsIon of the famous engIneer Isambard Kingdom Brunel. 181 00:10:06,160 --> 00:10:11,234 In the 19th century, the construction of raiIways was scarceIy mechanised at aII. 182 00:10:11,360 --> 00:10:17,117 It depended on thousands of Iabourers, or navvies, using shoveIs and hammers. 183 00:10:17,240 --> 00:10:22,189 LuckiIy, these fieIds suppIied a crop used to produce a refreshing, 184 00:10:22,320 --> 00:10:27,235 not-to-say aIcohoIic drink, that couId be used to quench their thirst 185 00:10:27,360 --> 00:10:30,557 after a day of toiI and sweat. 186 00:10:33,360 --> 00:10:35,715 In VIctorIan tImes, thIs part of OxfordshIre 187 00:10:35,840 --> 00:10:40,038 was a major growIng area for barley, a prIncIpal IngredIent In beer. 188 00:10:42,280 --> 00:10:45,352 To fInd out how the raIlways helped beer makIng to flourIsh here, 189 00:10:45,480 --> 00:10:48,074 I'm gettIng off at Charlbury StatIon. 190 00:10:51,160 --> 00:10:54,038 BeautifuI station. Not the best day to see it. 191 00:10:57,560 --> 00:11:02,554 Just up the road Is a splendId VIctorIan brewery, born In the raIlway age. 192 00:11:02,680 --> 00:11:06,070 For fIve generatIons It's been run by James Clarke's famIly 193 00:11:08,720 --> 00:11:11,632 - MichaeI. WeIcome to Hook Norton. - LoveIy to be here. 194 00:11:11,760 --> 00:11:16,117 What a fantasticaIIy historic and picturesque Iooking brewery this is. 195 00:11:16,240 --> 00:11:17,434 (James) We're very Iucky. 196 00:11:17,560 --> 00:11:20,518 Very traditionaI design and unspoiIt, reaIIy, by time. 197 00:11:21,760 --> 00:11:24,638 NIneteenth-century BrItons were beer enthusIasts, 198 00:11:24,760 --> 00:11:26,512 belIevIng It to be a healthy drInk, 199 00:11:26,640 --> 00:11:30,030 and It was seen as patrIotIc to choose a tradItIonal BrItIsh brew 200 00:11:30,160 --> 00:11:32,196 over European wIne. 201 00:11:32,320 --> 00:11:36,199 In the 1 800s lIcensIng laws were changed to boost beer productIon, 202 00:11:36,320 --> 00:11:38,834 fuellIng an explosIon of new brewerIes. 203 00:11:38,960 --> 00:11:42,635 (James) The company was started in 1849 by my great-great-grandfather. 204 00:11:42,760 --> 00:11:46,435 We got the first commerciaI breing records back in 1856. 205 00:11:46,560 --> 00:11:50,075 The breing deveIoped and he buiIt a smaII brewery in the 1870s 206 00:11:50,200 --> 00:11:51,838 and foIIowed it ith this brewery 207 00:11:51,960 --> 00:11:54,520 that was compIete around the turn of the century. 208 00:11:54,640 --> 00:11:57,837 The Industry was quIck to adopt the latest technology. 209 00:11:57,960 --> 00:12:01,589 ThIs brewery embraced steam power to mIll malted barley, 210 00:12:01,720 --> 00:12:04,518 the fIrst stage of the brewIng process. 211 00:12:04,640 --> 00:12:06,517 And the steam engine stiII works? 212 00:12:06,640 --> 00:12:08,790 It does. Steam engine was instaIIed in 1899 213 00:12:08,920 --> 00:12:11,388 and it wouId've been the soIe source of motive power 214 00:12:11,520 --> 00:12:13,750 that was distributed throughout the brewery, 215 00:12:13,880 --> 00:12:16,235 by a series of Iine shafting and open drive beIts. 216 00:12:16,360 --> 00:12:18,112 Is it possibIe to see the machine work? 217 00:12:18,240 --> 00:12:20,117 AbsoIuteIy. Let's fire her up. 218 00:12:23,960 --> 00:12:25,393 (laughs) 219 00:12:25,520 --> 00:12:28,432 We disappear in a cIoud of water vapour. 220 00:12:28,560 --> 00:12:30,994 What a fantastic machine. 221 00:12:31,120 --> 00:12:32,633 It has a bit of the Iook 222 00:12:32,760 --> 00:12:35,638 and certainIy the sound of a Iocomotive on the raiIway. 223 00:12:35,760 --> 00:12:40,436 AbsoIuteIy, just Victorian engineering, reaIIy weII and soIidIy buiIt, 224 00:12:40,560 --> 00:12:43,632 and consequentIy Iasted 1 10 years, pIus. 225 00:12:43,760 --> 00:12:45,557 It makes me feeI very at home. 226 00:12:50,240 --> 00:12:53,949 BrewerIes are tradItIonally buIlt on many floors, so that gravIty can help 227 00:12:54,080 --> 00:12:57,436 to move the beer between the dIfferent stages of productIon. 228 00:12:57,560 --> 00:12:59,198 (MIchael) Up and up and up. 229 00:12:59,320 --> 00:13:02,118 (James) Yes, six fIights of stairs to the top of the brewery 230 00:13:02,240 --> 00:13:05,038 and we've just come up a coupIe of them. 231 00:13:05,160 --> 00:13:08,675 ThIs brewery grew rapIdly In the late-19th century, 232 00:13:08,800 --> 00:13:10,631 thanks In part to a new raIlway lIne 233 00:13:10,760 --> 00:13:13,354 buIlt through the nearby OxfordshIre hIlls. 234 00:13:14,960 --> 00:13:17,076 I beIieve the process of buiIding the raiIway 235 00:13:17,200 --> 00:13:19,714 - had a big impact on the brewery. - It had a huge impact. 236 00:13:19,840 --> 00:13:23,196 The section through Hook Norton was quite difficuIt engineering-ise 237 00:13:23,320 --> 00:13:26,392 and reputed to have taken 400 navvies four years 238 00:13:26,520 --> 00:13:28,875 to buiId two sets of viaducts and a Iong tunneI. 239 00:13:29,000 --> 00:13:33,073 So, cIearIy, 400 men working very hard and working up quite a thirst. 240 00:13:33,200 --> 00:13:37,159 For the navvIes who buIlt the raIlways, lIfe was tough. 241 00:13:37,280 --> 00:13:38,679 The dark beer that they drank 242 00:13:38,800 --> 00:13:42,395 was an Important source of nutrItIon, rIch In Iron. 243 00:13:42,520 --> 00:13:46,877 And are you making those Victorian beers, on which the navvies thrived? 244 00:13:47,000 --> 00:13:50,197 We have an oId bottIe here, which shows the originaI IabeI. 245 00:13:50,960 --> 00:13:53,349 That's a beer we're stiII producing today. 246 00:13:54,200 --> 00:13:56,794 - Wow, that is dark, isn't it? - It is. 247 00:13:57,560 --> 00:13:59,790 A smaII amount of very highIy roasted maIt in it, 248 00:13:59,920 --> 00:14:02,434 to give it a depth of coIour and fIavour. 249 00:14:02,560 --> 00:14:04,118 That's as bIack as night. 250 00:14:06,520 --> 00:14:07,748 Mmm. 251 00:14:10,840 --> 00:14:11,795 Wow. 252 00:14:11,920 --> 00:14:13,239 - Cheers. - Cheers. 253 00:14:13,360 --> 00:14:16,318 You couId buiId a raiIway once you'd drunk that, couIdn't you? 254 00:14:18,200 --> 00:14:21,431 That puts hairs on your chest and muscIes on your arms, I shouId think. 255 00:14:22,840 --> 00:14:25,559 Barrels of beer used to be carrIed by horse and cart 256 00:14:25,680 --> 00:14:29,434 to the raIlway at Hook Norton, a mIle down the road. 257 00:14:29,560 --> 00:14:34,429 Sadly, that branch lIne has closed, but the horse and cart tradItIon contInues. 258 00:14:34,560 --> 00:14:38,030 HeIIo, what a fabuIous dray and what beautifuI horses. 259 00:14:38,960 --> 00:14:41,030 You wouIdn't be going towards the station? 260 00:14:41,160 --> 00:14:43,196 I certainIy can do. WaIk on! 261 00:14:45,280 --> 00:14:48,192 WeII, I've often traveIIed by raiIway Iike George Bradshaw, 262 00:14:48,320 --> 00:14:52,518 but never headed towards the station by horse Iike George Bradshaw. 263 00:14:55,320 --> 00:14:59,438 My VIctorIan transport Is carryIng me towards my next traIn. 264 00:15:04,960 --> 00:15:06,837 ThIs leg of thejourney takes me deeper 265 00:15:06,960 --> 00:15:11,670 Into the heart of the famous gently rollIng hIlls called the Cotswolds. 266 00:15:16,680 --> 00:15:19,990 My next stop got Its statIon In 1 853, 267 00:15:20,120 --> 00:15:24,352 but Its hIstory as a haltIng place for travellers reaches far Into the past. 268 00:15:25,360 --> 00:15:28,238 My journey has brought me across the border from Oxfordshire 269 00:15:28,360 --> 00:15:31,238 into GIoucestershire, to Moreton-in-Marsh. 270 00:15:31,360 --> 00:15:34,591 And here I shaII find a pIace to rest my head. 271 00:15:35,360 --> 00:15:37,715 My guIdebook tells me that Moreton-In-Marsh 272 00:15:37,840 --> 00:15:40,513 Is a small town on the old Fosse Way, 273 00:15:40,640 --> 00:15:44,428 a Roman road that stretched all the way from Exeter to LIncoln. 274 00:15:44,560 --> 00:15:47,677 The perfect spot for a tradItIonal coachIng Inn. 275 00:15:48,960 --> 00:15:53,954 I Iove the coIour of CotswoId stone. It has an extraordinary warmth. 276 00:15:54,080 --> 00:15:57,993 And one of the hoteIs mentioned in my Bradshaw's stiII stands. 277 00:15:58,120 --> 00:15:59,712 The White Hart. 278 00:16:00,760 --> 00:16:03,718 Good evening. MichaeI PortiIIo checking in. 279 00:16:03,840 --> 00:16:04,875 Nice to meet you. 280 00:16:05,000 --> 00:16:07,036 Very good to see you. What have you... 281 00:16:07,160 --> 00:16:09,833 This evening you'II be staying in the King CharIes Suite. 282 00:16:09,960 --> 00:16:12,030 Ah... Which King CharIes is that? 283 00:16:12,160 --> 00:16:15,835 It was King CharIes I and the suite is actuaIIy named after him. 284 00:16:15,960 --> 00:16:21,034 In fact he stayed here the night on his way to Marston Moor 285 00:16:21,160 --> 00:16:23,628 and Ieft the next morning ithout paying his biII. 286 00:16:23,760 --> 00:16:26,228 Oh. That is fantasticaIIy historic. 287 00:16:26,360 --> 00:16:28,396 As Iong as you don't expect me to pay his biII. 288 00:16:28,520 --> 00:16:31,398 - You can if you want to. - Thank you very much. Goodbye. 289 00:16:33,800 --> 00:16:35,518 Magnificent. 290 00:16:38,360 --> 00:16:40,920 This reaIIy crowns my day. 291 00:16:55,160 --> 00:16:59,233 I've woken to a perfect day for explorIng the Cotswolds. 292 00:16:59,360 --> 00:17:01,078 Before I catch my next traIn, 293 00:17:01,200 --> 00:17:05,512 I want to uncover the story behInd a local landmark. 294 00:17:05,640 --> 00:17:09,189 I've come to Moreton because my Bradshaw's mentions 295 00:17:09,320 --> 00:17:12,517 the Saxon tower on Broadway HiII. 296 00:17:12,640 --> 00:17:16,428 And the author was seeing it from Warwck 20 miIes away, 297 00:17:16,560 --> 00:17:19,472 so it must be rather speciaI. 298 00:17:25,360 --> 00:17:28,636 Broadway HIll Is a stIff clImb from Moreton 299 00:17:28,760 --> 00:17:31,433 and the second hIghest poInt In the Cotswolds. 300 00:17:31,560 --> 00:17:35,553 IntrIguIngly, my ''Bradshaw's GuIde'' claIms that the tower that tops It 301 00:17:35,680 --> 00:17:38,069 Is vIsIble from WarwIck Castle, 302 00:17:38,200 --> 00:17:41,431 and as I approach It I begIn to see why. 303 00:17:42,360 --> 00:17:45,033 There's a stunning view. 304 00:17:45,160 --> 00:17:48,232 A sIender castIe. 305 00:17:48,360 --> 00:17:51,033 And whoever buiIt it reaIIy knew their site. 306 00:17:51,160 --> 00:17:53,037 What a fantastic position. 307 00:17:53,160 --> 00:17:56,630 The horizon is just opened up aII around it. 308 00:17:56,760 --> 00:18:02,039 NeIl Thorneywork knows the hIstory of thIs castellated curIosIty. 309 00:18:02,760 --> 00:18:03,875 - HeIIo, NeiI. - HeIIo. 310 00:18:04,000 --> 00:18:06,833 Tower Iooking beautifuI in sunIight today. 311 00:18:06,960 --> 00:18:09,633 Yes, it's aIways nice when the sun's on it, Iooks a treat. 312 00:18:09,760 --> 00:18:14,436 Now, my Bradshaw's refers to it as a Saxon tower, but I'm guessing it's not. 313 00:18:14,560 --> 00:18:16,835 No, it was finished in 1 799. 314 00:18:16,960 --> 00:18:19,554 Saxon refers to the styIe of architecture used. 315 00:18:19,680 --> 00:18:21,398 (MIchael) Who buiIt the tower? 316 00:18:21,520 --> 00:18:25,593 (NeIl) It was buiIt by the sixth EarI of Coventry as a present for his ife. 317 00:18:25,720 --> 00:18:27,438 Very, very nice present, too. 318 00:18:27,560 --> 00:18:29,994 A bit unusuaI compared to today's presents. 319 00:18:30,120 --> 00:18:32,031 What was she supposed to do ith it? 320 00:18:32,160 --> 00:18:35,391 Nothing. AII she wanted to do was Iook out of the estate indow 321 00:18:35,520 --> 00:18:38,671 some ten miIes away and basicaIIy say, ''That's my tower.'' 322 00:18:38,800 --> 00:18:41,109 So this was in the tradition of buiIding foIIies? 323 00:18:41,240 --> 00:18:42,195 Yes, very much so. 324 00:18:43,520 --> 00:18:47,229 Wealthy VIctorIans contInued to construct quIrky buIldIngs lIke thIs 325 00:18:47,360 --> 00:18:52,070 and BrItaIn Is claImed to have had more follIes than anywhere else In the world. 326 00:18:52,200 --> 00:18:55,909 The definition of foIIy is a pointIess, useIess buiIding 327 00:18:56,040 --> 00:18:58,634 and they were buiIt by the weaIthy, 328 00:18:58,760 --> 00:19:04,039 in a period from 1 750 to about 1910. 329 00:19:04,160 --> 00:19:08,631 Some peopIe think of them as even done to give peopIe empIoyment. 330 00:19:08,760 --> 00:19:11,638 But normaIIy they was just there as a show of weaIth. 331 00:19:11,760 --> 00:19:14,228 And so they were buiIdings that they couId enjoy 332 00:19:14,360 --> 00:19:17,989 views of, views from, and just to amuse their friends. 333 00:19:18,120 --> 00:19:21,237 Or just to amuse their friends and say, ''This is my foIIy.'' 334 00:19:21,960 --> 00:19:24,758 These days the tower Is open to the publIc, 335 00:19:24,880 --> 00:19:30,352 and reputedly, on a fIne day, you can see for over 50 mIles from the top. 336 00:19:30,480 --> 00:19:33,597 - That is stunning, isn't it? - Some view, isn't it? 337 00:19:33,720 --> 00:19:35,392 (MIchael) That's fantastic. 338 00:19:35,520 --> 00:19:36,873 How high are we now?. 339 00:19:37,000 --> 00:19:40,231 (NeIl) We're about 1 ,080 feet, incIuding the tower. 340 00:19:40,360 --> 00:19:43,193 (MIchael) And reputedIy, you can see 1 4 counties from here? 341 00:19:43,320 --> 00:19:45,356 Yes, on a perfectIy cIear, atmospheric day. 342 00:19:45,480 --> 00:19:47,869 - Which are they? - Worcestershire, Warwckshire, 343 00:19:48,000 --> 00:19:51,436 GIoucestershire, Leicestershire, Oxfordshire, Northamptonshire, 344 00:19:51,560 --> 00:19:53,835 Buckinghamshire, Staffordshire, Shropshire, 345 00:19:53,960 --> 00:19:56,428 Avon, Dyfed, Gwent, Powys, WiItshire and Somerset. 346 00:19:56,560 --> 00:20:00,394 (applauds) Bravo. That was very, very good. 347 00:20:00,520 --> 00:20:03,193 Now, the author of Bradshaw's GuIde 348 00:20:03,320 --> 00:20:09,236 was standing on Guy's Tower at Warwck CastIe when he saw this tower. 349 00:20:09,360 --> 00:20:10,759 Do you know where that is? 350 00:20:10,880 --> 00:20:13,633 Warwck CastIe, just over in that direction there. 351 00:20:13,760 --> 00:20:14,795 OK. 352 00:20:14,920 --> 00:20:18,230 ObviousIy, we wouId be abIe to see it from here on a perfectIy cIear day. 353 00:20:18,360 --> 00:20:22,069 I think you'II probabIy need fieId gIasses to distinguish it. 354 00:20:22,200 --> 00:20:24,794 Although the tower was buIlt as a flIght of fancy, 355 00:20:24,920 --> 00:20:26,035 In the 19th century, 356 00:20:26,160 --> 00:20:29,436 It helped the development of an Important art movement. 357 00:20:29,560 --> 00:20:32,870 The Pre-RaphaeIite artists, the arts and crafts movement, 358 00:20:33,000 --> 00:20:34,638 aII used to come and stay here. 359 00:20:34,760 --> 00:20:36,432 Because? 360 00:20:36,560 --> 00:20:40,439 BasicaIIy the resident here at the time was a gentIeman caIIed Crom Price, 361 00:20:40,560 --> 00:20:43,996 who was a very good friend of Burne-Jones. 362 00:20:44,120 --> 00:20:47,430 So he used to invite the Pre-RaphaeIites to come here and stay ith him 363 00:20:47,560 --> 00:20:51,109 and I'm sure WiIIiam Morris gained some great inspiration from being here. 364 00:20:51,240 --> 00:20:54,994 He'd certainIy be abIe to see Iots of Ieaves and trees and inspiring things. 365 00:20:55,120 --> 00:20:56,075 That's right. 366 00:20:56,200 --> 00:20:58,236 VIsItIng here led WIllIam MorrIs 367 00:20:58,360 --> 00:21:01,830 to campaIgn to preserve BrItaIn's hIstorIc monuments. 368 00:21:01,960 --> 00:21:06,317 I for one am very glad that thIs partIcular oddIty has survIved. 369 00:21:07,160 --> 00:21:09,879 Any man watching this programme who's stuck for an idea 370 00:21:10,000 --> 00:21:12,673 for his ife for Christmas... A foIIy's the thing. 371 00:21:12,800 --> 00:21:17,112 That's right, buiId a tower, ins every time. 372 00:21:19,920 --> 00:21:22,309 I'd love to stay and plan my gIft lIst, 373 00:21:22,440 --> 00:21:24,635 but It's tIme for me to catch my next traIn. 374 00:21:27,600 --> 00:21:30,831 So, I continue down the beautifuI CotswoIds Line. 375 00:21:30,960 --> 00:21:32,871 Next stop, Pershore. 376 00:21:34,680 --> 00:21:38,036 The scenery I'm passIng through Is beautIful. 377 00:21:38,160 --> 00:21:40,720 But It hasn't always been peaceful. 378 00:21:41,760 --> 00:21:45,435 My train iII soon pass under the CotswoId Ridge, 379 00:21:45,560 --> 00:21:47,039 through the Camden tunneI. 380 00:21:47,160 --> 00:21:50,630 And this was the scene of an extraordinary piece of raiIway history. 381 00:21:50,760 --> 00:21:54,594 The tunneI was under the engineering supeRVision of BruneI. 382 00:21:54,720 --> 00:21:56,756 He'd empIoyed some navvies to dig it. 383 00:21:56,880 --> 00:22:00,031 He was dissatisfied ith their progress and decided to evict them. 384 00:22:00,160 --> 00:22:06,030 And he did that by marching his own band of 3,000 navvies to throw them out. 385 00:22:06,160 --> 00:22:11,314 It was the scene of one of the Iast pitch battIes on British soiI 386 00:22:11,440 --> 00:22:14,796 and it was fought over a raiIway tunneI. 387 00:22:15,560 --> 00:22:20,236 Brunel's sIde was vIctorIous, and wIthIn a year the tunnel was complete. 388 00:22:20,360 --> 00:22:22,555 The fInIshed lIne lInked Oxford and Worcester 389 00:22:22,680 --> 00:22:25,717 and these days It's known as the Cotswolds LIne. 390 00:22:25,840 --> 00:22:28,035 Good afternoon, sir, tickets, pIease. 391 00:22:28,160 --> 00:22:29,957 - Thank you very much. - Thank you. 392 00:22:30,080 --> 00:22:32,389 This Iine is so beautifuI, the CotswoIds Line. 393 00:22:32,520 --> 00:22:34,670 We're quite Iucky to have it stiII, aren't we? 394 00:22:34,800 --> 00:22:36,631 (conductor) It's a pIeasure to work on. 395 00:22:36,760 --> 00:22:39,832 Yeah, Iots of beautifuI stations and scenery. 396 00:22:49,360 --> 00:22:52,113 My journey now brings me into Worcestershire, 397 00:22:52,240 --> 00:22:55,869 which my Bradshaw's says is engaged chiefIy in agricuIture. 398 00:22:56,000 --> 00:22:58,150 And I'm heading for Pershore. 399 00:22:58,280 --> 00:23:01,238 Bradshaw says, ''The situation of the town is very beautifuI 400 00:23:01,360 --> 00:23:04,397 and the surrounding scenery is picturesque.'' 401 00:23:04,520 --> 00:23:07,353 I want to see how agricuIture has changed 402 00:23:07,480 --> 00:23:11,712 and I'm certainIy hoping to see something highIy picturesque. 403 00:23:13,160 --> 00:23:16,675 I'm gettIng off at a statIon on the edge of the Vale of Evesham, 404 00:23:16,800 --> 00:23:18,233 a rIchly fertIle area, 405 00:23:18,360 --> 00:23:22,433 whIch In the 19th century was a major centre for market gardenIng. 406 00:23:23,520 --> 00:23:25,397 Orchards covered the countrysIde 407 00:23:25,520 --> 00:23:29,718 and hundreds of tonnes of fruIt were sent to market by raIl. 408 00:23:29,840 --> 00:23:32,832 In the 20th century, as foreIgn competItIon grew, 409 00:23:32,960 --> 00:23:36,953 thIs trade dIed off and many farmers struggled to survIve. 410 00:23:38,040 --> 00:23:40,952 But one famIly farm has recently had a renaIssance, 411 00:23:41,080 --> 00:23:43,799 thanks to thIs stunnIng crop. 412 00:23:43,920 --> 00:23:47,708 This is the most unexpected sight. 413 00:23:47,840 --> 00:23:51,116 Here we are in the middIe of an EngIish countryside, 414 00:23:51,240 --> 00:23:55,791 normaI greens and browns, and suddenIy this riot of coIour. 415 00:23:55,920 --> 00:23:59,515 It's Iike someone tipped a pot of different coIoured paints 416 00:23:59,640 --> 00:24:01,790 aII over the Iandscape. Fantastic! 417 00:24:08,360 --> 00:24:10,271 I'm meetIng Charles Hudson, 418 00:24:10,400 --> 00:24:14,439 whose famIly has farmed thIs land for over 200 years. 419 00:24:14,560 --> 00:24:17,711 What an amazing sight. What a riot of coIour this is. 420 00:24:17,840 --> 00:24:21,515 It is a bit of a surprise when you waIk down a green country Iane, 421 00:24:21,640 --> 00:24:23,835 turn the corner and suddenIy see this. 422 00:24:23,960 --> 00:24:25,359 Very unIikeIy. 423 00:24:28,920 --> 00:24:32,276 ThIs sensatIonal array of delphInIums Isn'tjust for decoratIon, 424 00:24:32,400 --> 00:24:35,233 and nor are they sold as cut flowers. 425 00:24:35,360 --> 00:24:38,033 In fact, thIs farm grows a vItal IngredIent 426 00:24:38,160 --> 00:24:40,913 for a tradItIonal EnglIsh weddIng. 427 00:24:41,680 --> 00:24:45,992 We pick the petaIs, we dry them and then they are... 428 00:24:46,120 --> 00:24:48,793 They can be thrown as confetti. 429 00:24:48,920 --> 00:24:50,069 That's a wonderfuI idea. 430 00:24:50,200 --> 00:24:53,795 Whenever I've been to a church, I've seen paper confetti. 431 00:24:53,920 --> 00:24:56,070 This is obviousIy a much IoveIier idea. 432 00:24:56,200 --> 00:24:57,633 And does it work as a business? 433 00:24:57,760 --> 00:25:02,754 (Charles) We farm over a thousand acres here and this fieId is about 15 acres 434 00:25:02,880 --> 00:25:06,759 - and this makes up 50 of our turnover. - ReaIIy? 435 00:25:06,880 --> 00:25:09,599 So it's been a reaI saviour of everything. 436 00:25:09,720 --> 00:25:11,676 It's got us through some difficuIt times. 437 00:25:11,800 --> 00:25:13,916 Newlyweds have been showered wIth 438 00:25:14,040 --> 00:25:16,918 everythIng from rIce to sweets for centurIes. 439 00:25:17,040 --> 00:25:21,591 The orIgIns of modern confettI are unclear, but by VIctorIan tImes, 440 00:25:21,720 --> 00:25:25,395 the kInd of paper mIssIles that we launch today were common. 441 00:25:25,520 --> 00:25:30,230 I suppose, environmentaIIy, if you're chucking around an organic product, 442 00:25:30,360 --> 00:25:33,591 that's a much nicer thing to do than chucking around paper. 443 00:25:33,720 --> 00:25:34,994 (Charles) CertainIy, yes. 444 00:25:35,120 --> 00:25:40,672 Paper, and there's a pernicious new product, which is foiI confetti, 445 00:25:40,800 --> 00:25:45,237 which everybody reaIIy hates because it just never goes. 446 00:25:45,360 --> 00:25:48,238 Yes, petaIs are just Iike the grass and the Ieaves. 447 00:25:48,360 --> 00:25:51,033 They're organic and they just disappear. 448 00:25:51,160 --> 00:25:56,075 ConfettI Is the latest In a long lIne of crops grown here by Charles's famIly. 449 00:25:56,200 --> 00:25:58,555 Over the years they've wItnessed many changes, 450 00:25:58,680 --> 00:26:00,910 IncludIng the arrIval of the raIlway. 451 00:26:01,040 --> 00:26:06,831 We stopped the raiIways coming through our farm a coupIe of hundred years ago. 452 00:26:06,960 --> 00:26:08,837 Why did your famiIy do that? 453 00:26:08,960 --> 00:26:10,313 OriginaIIy, 300 years ago, 454 00:26:10,440 --> 00:26:14,228 the turnpike road went through and cut things in haIf. 455 00:26:14,360 --> 00:26:18,035 Then the raiIways, it was a sort of giddy Iimit. 456 00:26:18,160 --> 00:26:21,232 So I think they campaigned, reaIIy, 457 00:26:21,360 --> 00:26:24,079 to try and sort of push it the other side of the river, 458 00:26:24,200 --> 00:26:25,838 which is uItimateIy what happened, 459 00:26:25,960 --> 00:26:30,909 which is why Pershore Station is about a miIe and a haIf out of town. 460 00:26:31,040 --> 00:26:36,797 I think everybody aIways sort of curses the waIk they have to make into town. 461 00:26:36,920 --> 00:26:39,229 Before I make the trek back to the statIon, 462 00:26:39,360 --> 00:26:41,316 I want to see Charles's fInIshed product. 463 00:26:42,960 --> 00:26:45,713 This is what it Iooks Iike. Those are sort of bags... 464 00:26:46,640 --> 00:26:48,631 You wouId hardIy know that they weren't... 465 00:26:48,760 --> 00:26:50,830 It's got a nice sort of hay smeII to it. 466 00:26:50,960 --> 00:26:52,154 (MIchael) LoveIy smeII. 467 00:26:52,280 --> 00:26:54,840 That's a stunning bIue in there, isn't it? 468 00:26:54,960 --> 00:26:58,032 It's reaIIy a very far cry from paper confetti. 469 00:26:58,160 --> 00:27:01,038 It's wonderfuIIy naturaI. 470 00:27:01,160 --> 00:27:02,388 - Yeah... - Light. 471 00:27:02,520 --> 00:27:04,397 WeII, thank you, CharIes. 472 00:27:04,520 --> 00:27:06,112 I must head to the raiIway station, 473 00:27:06,240 --> 00:27:08,834 which thanks to your ancestors is quite a Iong way away. 474 00:27:08,960 --> 00:27:11,599 I'm afraid it is. Sorry about that. 475 00:27:13,960 --> 00:27:15,393 Pershore's confettI fIelds 476 00:27:15,520 --> 00:27:18,034 have certaInly made theIr mark on the landscape. 477 00:27:18,160 --> 00:27:21,869 And they're rIngIng the changes at weddIngs, too. 478 00:27:24,520 --> 00:27:26,670 The industriaI revoIution brought factories 479 00:27:26,800 --> 00:27:30,509 and dark satanic miIIs to much of Britain. 480 00:27:30,640 --> 00:27:33,234 But when I Iooked down on the coIIeges of Oxford 481 00:27:33,360 --> 00:27:37,194 and on the countryside around Broadway, 482 00:27:37,320 --> 00:27:39,436 and waIked through the fIowers at Pershore, 483 00:27:39,560 --> 00:27:43,553 I was reminded that whiIst the raiIways affected everywhere, 484 00:27:43,680 --> 00:27:46,513 many pIaces were Ieft unspoiIed. 485 00:27:46,640 --> 00:27:49,916 This is stiII a Iand of green pastures. 486 00:27:51,840 --> 00:27:53,671 On the next step of my journey, 487 00:27:53,800 --> 00:27:57,713 I'll be vIsItIng the home of Queen VIctorIa's favourIte bIshop... 488 00:27:57,840 --> 00:28:01,879 She commented that Bishop Perowne had the best Iegs in tights 489 00:28:02,000 --> 00:28:04,150 of any man on the EpiscopaI bench. 490 00:28:04,280 --> 00:28:08,796 ..snIffIng out the secrets of a famous 19th-century condIment... 491 00:28:08,920 --> 00:28:12,151 That's a gIorious smeII, but a very concentrated smeII. 492 00:28:12,280 --> 00:28:16,512 ..and followIng In the footsteps of VIctorIan health fanatIcs. 493 00:28:16,640 --> 00:28:18,915 There'd be wet toweIs wrapped around you 494 00:28:19,040 --> 00:28:21,429 and water poured upon you from a ghastIy height. 495 00:28:21,560 --> 00:28:24,438 - So, actuaIIy pretty bracing stuff. - Bracing indeed.