0
00:00:05,760 --> 00:00:10,436
In 1 840, one man transformed
travel In BrItaIn.

1
00:00:10,560 --> 00:00:13,028
HIs name was George Bradshaw,

2
00:00:13,160 --> 00:00:17,551
and hIs raIlway guIdes InspIred
the VIctorIans to take to the tracks.

3
00:00:18,320 --> 00:00:19,594
Stop by stop,

4
00:00:19,720 --> 00:00:21,597
he told them where to travel,

5
00:00:21,720 --> 00:00:23,950
what to see and where to stay.

6
00:00:25,440 --> 00:00:27,795
Now, 1 70 years later,

7
00:00:27,920 --> 00:00:31,708
I'm makIng a serIes ofjourneys across
the length and breadth of the country

8
00:00:31,840 --> 00:00:34,718
to see what of Bradshaw's BrItaIn
remaIns.

9
00:00:58,680 --> 00:01:01,148
My Bradshaw's is now steering me
through Cumbria.

10
00:01:01,280 --> 00:01:04,670
You might expect me to be headed
for the Lake District,

11
00:01:04,800 --> 00:01:08,509
but first,
my journey takes me aIong the sea

12
00:01:08,640 --> 00:01:10,756
on the raiIway which, as Bradshaw says,

13
00:01:10,880 --> 00:01:13,917
''skirts the best part
of the CumberIand coast.''

14
00:01:14,720 --> 00:01:17,188
ActuaIIy, it aII
Iooks pretty good to me.

15
00:01:20,320 --> 00:01:23,312
On today's part of my journey,

16
00:01:23,440 --> 00:01:26,000
I'll be takIng a traIn
from coast to mountaIn-top...

17
00:01:26,120 --> 00:01:31,717
A IittIe smut hits the eye to remind you
of the joys of steam traveI.

18
00:01:31,840 --> 00:01:36,516
..gaInIng rare access to an Industry
that dIvIdes opInIon worldwIde,

19
00:01:36,640 --> 00:01:38,232
nuclear power...

20
00:01:38,360 --> 00:01:40,032
And it is absoIuteIy massive.

21
00:01:40,160 --> 00:01:42,833
The goIf baII itseIf is probabIy
about 60 metres high.

22
00:01:42,960 --> 00:01:47,636
..and attendIng the revelatIon
of an extremely rare Cumberland Luck.

23
00:01:47,760 --> 00:01:51,150
This is, I must say,
a rather emotionaI moment, isn't it?

24
00:01:55,000 --> 00:01:57,355
ThIsjourney began
on the ScottIsh border

25
00:01:57,480 --> 00:02:00,517
and Is takIng me across the spectacular
scenery of England

26
00:02:00,640 --> 00:02:02,870
at Its narrowest poInt, coast to coast,

27
00:02:03,000 --> 00:02:05,673
fInIshIng up
on the pIcturesque Isle of Man.

28
00:02:06,720 --> 00:02:10,190
Today's run starts In Cockermouth,
near the CumbrIan coast,

29
00:02:10,320 --> 00:02:13,790
and then I'll travel south
to the nuclear facIlIty at SellafIeld,

30
00:02:13,920 --> 00:02:17,629
endIng the day In marvellous countrysIde
at Ravenglass.

31
00:02:20,680 --> 00:02:24,434
I'm now headed for Cockermouth,
which Bradshaw's informs me

32
00:02:24,560 --> 00:02:28,155
is situated at the junction
of the Cocker and the Derwent,

33
00:02:28,280 --> 00:02:32,478
and he reminds me that
the poet WiIIiam Wordsworth is a native

34
00:02:32,600 --> 00:02:37,310
and apparentIy is commemorated at
St Mary's Church ith a memoriaI indow.

35
00:02:38,360 --> 00:02:41,670
Cockermouth stands on the north-western
edge of the Lake DIstrIct.

36
00:02:41,800 --> 00:02:45,998
A raIlway to carry coal from the West
Cumberland pIts for shIpment by sea

37
00:02:46,120 --> 00:02:51,399
was opened between the town and the
coast at WorkIngton as early as 1 847.

38
00:02:52,600 --> 00:02:57,037
And once a passenger raIlway arrIved
In 1 865, the town flourIshed,

39
00:02:57,160 --> 00:03:00,232
as VIctorIan tourIsts
flocked to the lakes

40
00:03:00,360 --> 00:03:02,828
where the poet Wordsworth once lIved.

41
00:03:02,960 --> 00:03:05,997
As a RomantIc wrIter,
much stImulated by nature,

42
00:03:06,120 --> 00:03:09,112
Wordsworth absorbed the landscapes
surroundIng the town

43
00:03:09,240 --> 00:03:11,754
profoundly Into hIs verses.

44
00:03:13,840 --> 00:03:17,276
Sadly, Cockermouth StatIon
was closed In 1966,

45
00:03:17,400 --> 00:03:21,279
so I've alIghted at WorkIngton,
the closest poInt on the raIlway.

46
00:03:29,520 --> 00:03:32,432
Reminiscing on his chiIdhood,
Wordsworth wrote,

47
00:03:32,560 --> 00:03:36,109
''What joy was mine!
How often in the course

48
00:03:36,240 --> 00:03:39,118
Of those gIad respites,
though a soft west ind

49
00:03:39,240 --> 00:03:42,198
RuffIed the waters
to the angIer's ish,

50
00:03:42,320 --> 00:03:44,515
For a whoIe day together, have I Iain

51
00:03:44,640 --> 00:03:48,315
Down by thy side, O, Derwent!
Murmuring stream.''

52
00:03:49,440 --> 00:03:52,432
If Bradshaw couId enthuse
about engineering,

53
00:03:52,560 --> 00:03:56,155
why shouIdn't the poet wax IyricaI
about water?

54
00:03:59,760 --> 00:04:02,718
The Isolated
yet awe-InspIrIng landscape

55
00:04:02,840 --> 00:04:05,434
and the water and mIneral wealth
contaIned wIthIn It

56
00:04:05,560 --> 00:04:08,518
had proved attractIve to VIctorIan
and modern-day vIsItors,

57
00:04:08,640 --> 00:04:11,154
artIsts and IndustrIes alIke.

58
00:04:11,760 --> 00:04:13,398
And water Is key to Cockermouth,

59
00:04:13,520 --> 00:04:16,478
beIng sItuated at the confluence
of two rIvers.

60
00:04:18,760 --> 00:04:23,470
I've come here to vIsIt a brewery,
establIshed at thIs spot In 1 828,

61
00:04:23,600 --> 00:04:28,151
precIsely because of the purIty
of the waters that Wordsworth eulogIsed.

62
00:04:28,280 --> 00:04:30,430
In the 19th century,

63
00:04:30,560 --> 00:04:33,950
BrItIsh beer and brewIng set
the gold standard around the world.

64
00:04:34,080 --> 00:04:36,435
In fact, Bass Ale from Burton-on-Trent

65
00:04:36,560 --> 00:04:39,518
Is credIted
as the world's fIrst global brand,

66
00:04:39,640 --> 00:04:42,393
as It was exported to so many countrIes.

67
00:04:43,080 --> 00:04:46,709
Head brewer Jeremy Pettman
Is meetIng me In the pump room.

68
00:04:48,640 --> 00:04:51,598
There you'd have the brewery weII,
80ft deep.

69
00:04:51,720 --> 00:04:54,075
(MIchael) I understand
that the quaIity of water

70
00:04:54,200 --> 00:04:56,714
is very important in the making of beer.

71
00:04:56,840 --> 00:04:59,400
(Jeremy) The water quaIity's
absoIuteIy paramount.

72
00:04:59,520 --> 00:05:04,230
The water comes off the feIIs. It
permeates down through the rock strata

73
00:05:04,360 --> 00:05:06,669
to the east of the town itseIf

74
00:05:06,800 --> 00:05:10,236
and forms an artesian weII source
at the bottom of the brewery here.

75
00:05:10,360 --> 00:05:12,999
We think that the water's been used
since Norman times

76
00:05:13,120 --> 00:05:15,918
and actuaIIy suppIied the castIe
next door to the brewery.

77
00:05:17,880 --> 00:05:21,236
By the 1 870s,
scIence and potent new technologIes

78
00:05:21,360 --> 00:05:23,555
had revolutIonIsed the brewIng Industry.

79
00:05:23,680 --> 00:05:28,549
It had metamorphosed from a cottage
Industry to a hIghly scIentIfIc process

80
00:05:28,680 --> 00:05:32,355
utIlIsIng advances such as steam power
and coolIng systems,

81
00:05:32,480 --> 00:05:35,870
and even mIcroscopes,
whIch were fIrst Introduced by brewers

82
00:05:36,000 --> 00:05:38,195
tryIng to perfect beer yeast.

83
00:05:39,240 --> 00:05:41,515
StaggerIngly, after cotton spInnIng,

84
00:05:41,640 --> 00:05:44,473
brewIng was one of the most Important
IndustrIes In BrItaIn

85
00:05:44,600 --> 00:05:49,037
In terms of sheer numbers employed
and the cash that It generated.

86
00:05:49,160 --> 00:05:52,436
As I came in,
I noticed your buiIdings are historic.

87
00:05:52,560 --> 00:05:54,710
Do you pride yourseIves reaIIy
on breing beer

88
00:05:54,840 --> 00:05:57,479
as it used to be done
in the 19th century?

89
00:05:57,600 --> 00:05:59,272
This is a traditionaI brewery.

90
00:05:59,400 --> 00:06:02,153
WhiIst we've done a Iot of
improvement work over the years,

91
00:06:02,280 --> 00:06:04,635
we've tended to maintain
that traditionaIity.

92
00:06:04,760 --> 00:06:06,512
We're a heritage industry,

93
00:06:06,640 --> 00:06:09,200
this is heritage breing,
and we're very proud of it.

94
00:06:10,720 --> 00:06:14,349
The weather systems that cause
an above average raInfall In thIs area,

95
00:06:14,480 --> 00:06:19,031
and hence plentIful pure water,
can also be unpredIctable and vIolent,

96
00:06:19,160 --> 00:06:22,470
as Cockermouth found to Its cost
In recent hIstory.

97
00:06:24,440 --> 00:06:29,195
We aII remember the terribIe fIoods
that affIicted Cockermouth in 2009.

98
00:06:29,320 --> 00:06:31,470
What happened here?

99
00:06:31,600 --> 00:06:34,751
Where you're stood at the moment,
the weII was compIeteIy covered.

100
00:06:34,880 --> 00:06:38,395
You'd probabIy be somewhere waist deep,
just above waist deep in water.

101
00:06:38,520 --> 00:06:42,229
That obviousIy covered the weII,
it made it unusabIe.

102
00:06:42,360 --> 00:06:44,635
The water actuaIIy came up
in very quick fashion,

103
00:06:44,760 --> 00:06:47,479
probabIy two, two and a haIf hours,

104
00:06:47,600 --> 00:06:50,990
and by one o'cIock we had to puII
the pIug on the brewery itseIf

105
00:06:51,120 --> 00:06:55,352
and IiteraIIy just waIk away
and Ieave the water to its own devices.

106
00:06:56,400 --> 00:07:00,154
Thankfully, after nIne weeks of hard
work over ChrIstmas and the New Year,

107
00:07:00,280 --> 00:07:02,874
the brewery resumed productIon.

108
00:07:03,000 --> 00:07:05,468
And I thInk It's tIme
to sample some beer

109
00:07:05,600 --> 00:07:09,832
and see whether I can taste thIs
CumbrIa water, so loved by the poet.

110
00:07:11,240 --> 00:07:13,196
We are exactIy,
as Bradshaw describes it,

111
00:07:13,320 --> 00:07:16,278
at the junction of the Cocker
and the Derwent.

112
00:07:17,640 --> 00:07:20,712
- There you go. AII the best.
- Your very, very good heaIth.

113
00:07:20,840 --> 00:07:22,592
- Cheers.
- Cheers.

114
00:07:24,880 --> 00:07:27,235
The onIy thing that worries me
is rain is coming on

115
00:07:27,360 --> 00:07:30,716
and IoveIy though your water is,
I don't want to get any in my beer.

116
00:07:30,840 --> 00:07:34,469
Not a probIem. There's a saying around
here that every drop of rain that faIIs

117
00:07:34,600 --> 00:07:36,318
is another pint of Cockermouth aIe.

118
00:07:37,160 --> 00:07:38,434
Good saying.

119
00:07:40,840 --> 00:07:43,877
DespIte Its powerful potentIal
for destructIon,

120
00:07:44,000 --> 00:07:46,878
the abundant water
In thIs beautIful landscape

121
00:07:47,000 --> 00:07:50,515
has clearly InspIred
both wrIters and brewers.

122
00:07:51,320 --> 00:07:53,550
I've travelled
to WhItehaven RaIlway StatIon,

123
00:07:53,680 --> 00:07:57,036
nestled on the CumbrIan coast,
to catch the traIn to a place

124
00:07:57,160 --> 00:08:01,915
where the local water Is used
for somethIng much more controversIal.

125
00:08:02,040 --> 00:08:07,831
An Industry that both fuels our modern
world, but also furIous debate.

126
00:08:08,520 --> 00:08:11,717
SellafIeld was once
just a country raIlway statIon

127
00:08:11,840 --> 00:08:13,273
that VIctorIan tourIsts used

128
00:08:13,400 --> 00:08:17,109
to access the delIghts
of local seasIde resorts.

129
00:08:17,240 --> 00:08:21,233
But Its nature changed In the 1950s
when It became home to Calder Hall,

130
00:08:21,360 --> 00:08:25,638
the world's fIrst commercIal
nuclear power statIon.

131
00:08:29,360 --> 00:08:33,035
Power is at the heart
of any modern society.

132
00:08:33,160 --> 00:08:36,436
During the IndustriaI RevoIution
that so enthraIIed Bradshaw,

133
00:08:36,560 --> 00:08:39,916
the steam engine moved man forward
for the first time

134
00:08:40,040 --> 00:08:43,555
from pure dependence
on muscIe and sweat.

135
00:08:43,680 --> 00:08:46,433
I'm on my way now
to see a new source of energy

136
00:08:46,560 --> 00:08:51,953
deveIoped during the 20th century whose
impact was every bit as revoIutionary

137
00:08:52,080 --> 00:08:54,833
as the steam engine had been in its day.

138
00:08:58,720 --> 00:09:02,759
In Bradshaw's day, the energy
for homes, Industry and raIlways

139
00:09:02,880 --> 00:09:04,233
came from the burnIng of coal,

140
00:09:04,360 --> 00:09:09,036
whIch provIded a staggerIng 95%
of BrItaIn's energy needs.

141
00:09:10,440 --> 00:09:14,991
But today, oIl and natural gas
are the natIon's major fuel sources,

142
00:09:15,120 --> 00:09:18,351
wIth nuclear power provIdIng
a sIxth of our electrIcIty.

143
00:09:19,400 --> 00:09:22,597
(woman) It's hoped these reactors
wIll eventually make It possIble

144
00:09:22,720 --> 00:09:26,235
to produce power 20 tImes more cheaply
than conventIonal methods,

145
00:09:26,360 --> 00:09:29,796
and wIll, IncredIbly,
make more fuel than It uses.

146
00:09:31,960 --> 00:09:35,270
(MIchael) Nuclear power statIons
generate electrIcIty

147
00:09:35,400 --> 00:09:39,996
from energy produced by the fIssIon,
or splIttIng, of uranIum atoms.

148
00:09:44,560 --> 00:09:47,154
But Its enormous potentIal
comes wIth a problem.

149
00:09:47,280 --> 00:09:50,716
Nuclear power generatIon
produces spent fuel,

150
00:09:50,840 --> 00:09:54,833
contaInIng dangerous radIoactIve waste,
whIch has to be dealt wIth safely

151
00:09:54,960 --> 00:09:58,236
and stored for many hundreds,
If not thousands, of years.

152
00:10:01,680 --> 00:10:05,514
SellafIeld now specIalIses
In reprocessIng spent nuclear fuel

153
00:10:05,640 --> 00:10:07,631
and decommIssIonIng facIlItIes.

154
00:10:07,760 --> 00:10:11,309
And both local water and the raIlways
play a vItal role

155
00:10:11,440 --> 00:10:13,317
In thIs controversIal work.

156
00:10:17,480 --> 00:10:20,074
I'm meetIng ChrIs HallIwell,
as thIs nuclear plant

157
00:10:20,200 --> 00:10:23,795
Is paInstakIngly dIsassembled
or decommIssIoned.

158
00:10:25,360 --> 00:10:30,559
As I understand it, then, we are now
aIongside a prototype nucIear reactor

159
00:10:30,680 --> 00:10:33,319
and you have decommissioned it,
taken it out of seRVice.

160
00:10:33,440 --> 00:10:35,112
How important is that?

161
00:10:35,240 --> 00:10:37,231
It's a significant achievement, MichaeI.

162
00:10:37,360 --> 00:10:41,319
It's the first power-generating reactor
in the UK to be fuIIy decommissioned.

163
00:10:41,440 --> 00:10:42,998
What does decommissioning mean?

164
00:10:43,120 --> 00:10:45,429
We've effectiveIy shut down the station.

165
00:10:45,560 --> 00:10:48,757
We've removed aII of the fueI eIements
that were inside.

166
00:10:48,880 --> 00:10:51,440
That machine there
is controIIing this robotic arm

167
00:10:51,560 --> 00:10:53,437
that you can see
on the other screen here.

168
00:10:53,560 --> 00:10:56,791
That disappears down into the reactor,
very deep,

169
00:10:56,920 --> 00:11:00,310
and that's what we've used to cut up
and remove aII of the components

170
00:11:00,440 --> 00:11:01,634
inside the reactor core.

171
00:11:06,200 --> 00:11:09,795
The spent nuclear fuel
Is stored In large coolIng ponds.

172
00:11:09,920 --> 00:11:12,992
They're fed wIth water
sIphoned from Wast Water,

173
00:11:13,120 --> 00:11:14,997
the Lake DIstrIct's deepest lake,

174
00:11:15,120 --> 00:11:19,193
whIch Wordsworth descrIbed as
''long, stern and desolate''.

175
00:11:19,320 --> 00:11:22,630
These waters have now been harnessed
to a modern use.

176
00:11:24,960 --> 00:11:26,791
How Iong has that IittIe job taken you?

177
00:11:26,920 --> 00:11:30,629
It's taken the best part of 20 years
to compIete it to where we are now

178
00:11:30,760 --> 00:11:33,593
and we finished about May 201 1 .

179
00:11:36,960 --> 00:11:41,112
Many of the 441 nuclear power statIons
In the world today

180
00:11:41,240 --> 00:11:43,708
wIll come to the end
of theIr operatIonal lIves

181
00:11:43,840 --> 00:11:45,193
In the next few decades.

182
00:11:46,240 --> 00:11:49,596
BeIng able safely to recover
and store radIoactIve waste

183
00:11:49,720 --> 00:11:53,508
Is fundamental to the future
of nuclear generatIon.

184
00:11:56,280 --> 00:11:59,556
Do we have to content ourseIves
ith watching this on teIevision

185
00:11:59,680 --> 00:12:00,749
or can we get down there?

186
00:12:00,880 --> 00:12:03,678
AbsoIuteIy not, perfectIy cIean
and safe to go downstairs.

187
00:12:03,800 --> 00:12:05,791
If you want to foIIow me,
we can have a Iook.

188
00:12:07,960 --> 00:12:12,829
I've been gIven IncredIbly rare access
to the InsIde of the reactor

189
00:12:12,960 --> 00:12:15,997
that ChrIs and hIs team
are decommIssIonIng.

190
00:12:20,120 --> 00:12:22,793
(ChrIs) Here we are, MichaeI.
We're inside the goIf baII,

191
00:12:22,920 --> 00:12:25,036
the famous iconic structure
at SeIIafieId,

192
00:12:25,160 --> 00:12:27,674
and most peopIe are famiIiar
ith it from the outside,

193
00:12:27,800 --> 00:12:31,156
but very few have had the opportunity
to see it from this angIe.

194
00:12:31,280 --> 00:12:35,319
It is absoIuteIy massive. What kind of
dimensions are we deaIing ith here?

195
00:12:35,440 --> 00:12:38,512
(ChrIs) The goIf baII itseIf
is probabIy about 60 metres high

196
00:12:38,640 --> 00:12:41,234
and we're now sat on top
of the reactor itseIf

197
00:12:41,360 --> 00:12:43,920
and that extends maybe
25 metres down beIow us.

198
00:12:44,040 --> 00:12:48,033
This was a prototype.
So how does this compare in size

199
00:12:48,160 --> 00:12:51,038
to the production modeIs
that were buiIt?

200
00:12:51,160 --> 00:12:56,917
It's an exact one-fifth scaIe repIica
of a fuII-size advanced gas reactor.

201
00:12:57,520 --> 00:13:00,751
Nuclear materIals travel across
the length and breadth of BrItaIn

202
00:13:00,880 --> 00:13:02,279
hundreds of tImes each year,

203
00:13:02,400 --> 00:13:07,235
wIth spent nuclear fuel beIng carrIed
by traIn to SellafIeld for reprocessIng.

204
00:13:07,360 --> 00:13:10,830
BrIan Howell, from the Nuclear
DecommIssIonIng AuthorIty,

205
00:13:10,960 --> 00:13:14,839
Is meetIng me at SellafIeld's
dedIcated raIlway sIdIngs.

206
00:13:14,960 --> 00:13:19,351
This is cIearIy a very speciaI train.
What exactIy does it carry?

207
00:13:19,480 --> 00:13:23,632
These trains carry speciaIIy designed
fIasks that contain a potentiaI range

208
00:13:23,760 --> 00:13:27,435
of nucIear materiaIs
brought to SeIIafieId to be reprocessed.

209
00:13:27,560 --> 00:13:31,439
(MIchael) You're taking
spent nucIear fueI from power stations,

210
00:13:31,560 --> 00:13:33,232
whether in the UK or abroad.

211
00:13:33,360 --> 00:13:35,351
The stuff's brought here, reprocessed,

212
00:13:35,480 --> 00:13:38,631
and the stuff that's usefuI
is then sent back to the UK

213
00:13:38,760 --> 00:13:41,433
or to the customer abroad,
wherever it is, and aII by raiI.

214
00:13:41,560 --> 00:13:47,237
Yeah. Here in the UK, raiIway
is the preferred route of transport.

215
00:13:47,360 --> 00:13:49,510
A tried, tested, safe route.

216
00:13:49,640 --> 00:13:51,039
How do you know they're safe?

217
00:13:51,160 --> 00:13:53,833
They couId be invoIved
in a raiI accident, couIdn't they?

218
00:13:53,960 --> 00:13:56,713
Since 1982, we've traveIIed
over ten miIIion miIes

219
00:13:56,840 --> 00:13:59,434
transporting nucIear materiaIs
ithout an accident.

220
00:13:59,560 --> 00:14:03,519
However, a number of years ago,
they did do, obviousIy,

221
00:14:03,640 --> 00:14:05,232
a thorough series of safety tests.

222
00:14:05,360 --> 00:14:09,592
That incIuded crashing a Iocomotive
ith two carriages

223
00:14:09,720 --> 00:14:11,199
into one of these fIasks.

224
00:14:11,320 --> 00:14:15,029
After the crash, the Iocomotive
was virtuaIIy written off.

225
00:14:15,160 --> 00:14:19,233
However, the fIask onIy had a coupIe
of scratches and a minor dent in it,

226
00:14:19,360 --> 00:14:23,558
so that gives us the confidence
that this is an extremeIy safe way

227
00:14:23,680 --> 00:14:25,318
of transporting these materiaIs.

228
00:14:26,800 --> 00:14:30,634
TransportIng nuclear fuel by traIn
has led to specIal engIneerIng

229
00:14:30,760 --> 00:14:34,435
wIthIn these wagons to protect
theIr radIoactIve cargo.

230
00:14:36,680 --> 00:14:39,319
If I couId see inside those boxes,
what wouId I find?

231
00:14:39,440 --> 00:14:43,638
Inside the box is, in essence,
another highIy engineered box,

232
00:14:43,760 --> 00:14:48,311
which we caII a fIask, that is designed
to be very secure for impacts

233
00:14:48,440 --> 00:14:49,714
and those kind of reasons.

234
00:14:49,840 --> 00:14:52,832
Then ithin speciaI compartments
ithin that fIask,

235
00:14:52,960 --> 00:14:55,474
the fueI is actuaIIy protected
and Ioaded.

236
00:14:57,520 --> 00:15:03,789
The fuel flasks can weIgh anythIng
from 50 to 150 tonnes once fully laden,

237
00:15:03,920 --> 00:15:06,992
and sIt on specIally engIneered
low-loader wagons.

238
00:15:07,960 --> 00:15:10,633
They arrIve at the sIte
many tImes a month by raIl,

239
00:15:10,760 --> 00:15:14,878
from the docks at Barrow-In-Furness
or from raIl-connected power statIons

240
00:15:15,000 --> 00:15:16,956
elsewhere In the UK.

241
00:15:18,080 --> 00:15:20,310
(BrIan) With many nucIear faciIities,

242
00:15:20,440 --> 00:15:23,000
they'II be in fairIy isoIated
or remote parts of the UK,

243
00:15:23,120 --> 00:15:26,271
where perhaps the road network
isn't everything you'd want it to be

244
00:15:26,400 --> 00:15:28,038
to transport nucIear materiaIs.

245
00:15:28,160 --> 00:15:31,232
RaiI is a tried and tested route

246
00:15:31,360 --> 00:15:34,909
and we think that it's the best route
for the kind of job that we have to do.

247
00:15:36,760 --> 00:15:40,275
DespIte the controversIes that surround
the use of nuclear power,

248
00:15:40,400 --> 00:15:44,075
I can't help thInkIng
that Bradshaw would have been Impressed

249
00:15:44,200 --> 00:15:47,909
that the VIctorIan technology
of metal wheel on metal raIl

250
00:15:48,040 --> 00:15:53,239
coexIsts wIth processes
that rely on human mastery of the atom.

251
00:15:54,600 --> 00:15:59,958
So, after an absorbIng day, I'm headIng
off to fInd a hotel for the nIght.

252
00:16:00,080 --> 00:16:04,596
As ever, I've sought Bradshaw's advice
for where to stay.

253
00:16:05,320 --> 00:16:08,357
''AIong the coast from Whitehaven,
on or near the raiIway,

254
00:16:08,480 --> 00:16:12,598
is Muncaster HaII,
the seat of Lord Muncaster.''

255
00:16:14,240 --> 00:16:16,629
What a pIace to stay.

256
00:16:20,560 --> 00:16:22,915
ThIs locatIon Is spectacular.

257
00:16:23,040 --> 00:16:26,999
In fact, John RuskIn,
VIctorIan poet, artIst and crItIc,

258
00:16:27,120 --> 00:16:31,159
descrIbed Muncaster as
''the gateway to ParadIse''.

259
00:16:31,280 --> 00:16:36,308
But ''Bradshaw's'' sparks Interest
In Muncaster not only for the vIew.

260
00:16:36,440 --> 00:16:40,831
InsIde the house, It says,
Is Henry VI's cup,

261
00:16:40,960 --> 00:16:46,034
who took refuge after
the Battle of Hexham In 1 464.

262
00:16:46,160 --> 00:16:51,393
And extraordInarIly, that cup
stIll exIsts over 500 years later.

263
00:16:52,440 --> 00:16:55,512
The ancestral famIly are the PennIngtons
who, IncredIbly,

264
00:16:55,640 --> 00:16:59,189
have resIded In the castle sInce 1208.

265
00:16:59,320 --> 00:17:02,198
Peter Frost-PennIngton
and hIs father-In-law, PatrIck,

266
00:17:02,320 --> 00:17:05,198
have kIndly agreed to show me the cup.

267
00:17:06,080 --> 00:17:08,958
This is, I must say,
a rather emotionaI moment, isn't it?

268
00:17:09,080 --> 00:17:12,436
Yes. PeopIe aren't usuaIIy aIIowed
to see it. You're very priviIeged.

269
00:17:12,560 --> 00:17:14,118
I am very priviIeged indeed.

270
00:17:14,920 --> 00:17:18,435
(Peter) It's very dirty
because we never dare wash it.

271
00:17:18,560 --> 00:17:20,630
It must never Ieave the pIace.

272
00:17:22,440 --> 00:17:23,759
And here...

273
00:17:26,280 --> 00:17:29,636
..it is. The Luck of Muncaster.

274
00:17:31,280 --> 00:17:36,070
I feeI that I am present
at a very speciaI, unique ceremony.

275
00:17:37,120 --> 00:17:40,715
ThIs glass drInkIng bowl Is
a rare example of a Cumberland Luck,

276
00:17:40,840 --> 00:17:44,435
an object ensurIng good fortune
for those who possess It.

277
00:17:44,560 --> 00:17:45,879
According to my Bradshaw's,

278
00:17:46,000 --> 00:17:48,833
it was given by Henry VI
after the BattIe of Hexham.

279
00:17:48,960 --> 00:17:49,836
What was the story?

280
00:17:49,960 --> 00:17:52,235
He was running away ith his two friends

281
00:17:52,360 --> 00:17:57,036
and he was found at the tower
outside that indow,

282
00:17:57,160 --> 00:18:00,357
having tried to get sheIter
in the next-door vaIIey,

283
00:18:00,480 --> 00:18:01,549
but he was denied it.

284
00:18:01,680 --> 00:18:05,036
He was found by the two shepherds
and brought here for two or three weeks.

285
00:18:05,160 --> 00:18:08,038
When he Ieft, he Ieft his drinking bol
behind saying,

286
00:18:08,160 --> 00:18:10,435
as Iong as it shouId remain
whoIe and unbroken,

287
00:18:10,560 --> 00:18:13,916
the Penningtons wouId aIways be Iiving
and thriving at Muncaster.

288
00:18:14,960 --> 00:18:19,351
What an awesome object and how movIng
that It's survIved so long.

289
00:18:20,520 --> 00:18:24,957
The evIdent care that the PennIngtons
have over centurIes lavIshed on the bowl

290
00:18:25,080 --> 00:18:29,312
Is now matched by the hospItalIty
lavIshed on theIr guest

291
00:18:29,440 --> 00:18:32,193
as I'm InvIted tojoIn
the famIly's supper.

292
00:18:43,560 --> 00:18:48,509
HavIng wIned and dIned In elegant style,
I'm startIng a new day at Ravenglass,

293
00:18:48,640 --> 00:18:52,519
the only coastal vIllage
In the Lake DIstrIct NatIonal Park.

294
00:18:55,640 --> 00:18:58,791
The nearest station to Muncaster CastIe
is RavengIass.

295
00:18:58,920 --> 00:19:04,040
My Bradshaw's says, ''12 miIes distant
is Wast Water and the FeIIs,

296
00:19:04,160 --> 00:19:09,632
the principIe of which is ScafeII,
3,160ft high.''

297
00:19:09,760 --> 00:19:13,639
LuckiIy, there's a raiIway
that takes me most of the way.

298
00:19:13,760 --> 00:19:16,320
Big mountain, smaII train.

299
00:19:17,560 --> 00:19:22,680
The Ravenglass and Eskdale RaIlway
proved popular when It opened In 1 875,

300
00:19:22,800 --> 00:19:27,157
between the sea and Scafell,
the hIghest of the CumbrIan peaks.

301
00:19:28,360 --> 00:19:32,638
The VIctorIans used It to enjoy the
spectacle and majesty of the mountaIns.

302
00:19:32,760 --> 00:19:36,548
But, lIke many raIlways, It started
lIfe wIth an IndustrIal purpose.

303
00:19:38,040 --> 00:19:40,713
Peter van Zeller
Is today's traIn drIver.

304
00:19:41,800 --> 00:19:44,234
- HeIIo, Peter.
- HeIIo!

305
00:19:44,360 --> 00:19:47,238
Great to see you.
I'm reaIIy Iooking forward to this ride.

306
00:19:47,360 --> 00:19:49,032
What's the history of the raiIway?

307
00:19:49,160 --> 00:19:52,232
The raiIway was buiIt to carry iron ore
for steeI making.

308
00:19:52,360 --> 00:19:56,114
They thought it was reaIIy suitabIe
for the first steeI-making processes.

309
00:19:58,680 --> 00:20:02,639
Once the Iron ore had been ferrIed
from the mInes on the mountaIn at Boot

310
00:20:02,760 --> 00:20:04,796
to the coast at Ravenglass,

311
00:20:04,920 --> 00:20:08,674
passengers hopped aboard the empty
wagons for the return ascent.

312
00:20:10,000 --> 00:20:13,549
The raIlway closed In 1913,
after quarryIng stopped,

313
00:20:13,680 --> 00:20:18,117
but a group of raIl enthusIasts from
a mInIature raIlway engIneerIng company

314
00:20:18,240 --> 00:20:21,676
saved and restored the lIne
durIng the FIrst World War.

315
00:20:22,720 --> 00:20:24,836
In the Bradshaw's of the 1920s,

316
00:20:24,960 --> 00:20:27,838
you'II find this ran every day,
Christmas Day incIuded.

317
00:20:27,960 --> 00:20:30,633
It carried the maiIs,
it carried everybody's goods,

318
00:20:30,760 --> 00:20:35,709
because the passengers weren't enough
to keep the thing soIvent, if you Iike.

319
00:20:35,840 --> 00:20:38,638
What about your Iocomotive?
What kind of vintage is that?

320
00:20:38,760 --> 00:20:40,671
This one was buiIt in 1923.

321
00:20:40,800 --> 00:20:43,360
It Iooks Iike a miniature
of a fuII-size engine,

322
00:20:43,480 --> 00:20:46,074
but it was designed to do a reaI job.

323
00:20:46,200 --> 00:20:50,830
It wouId puII 20 tonnes of stone
through the inter

324
00:20:50,960 --> 00:20:55,829
or turn up and puII the 150 passengers
who come off the main Iine raiIway,

325
00:20:55,960 --> 00:21:01,114
ith equaI ease, shouId we say.
And it's stiII doing it 90 years Iater.

326
00:21:01,240 --> 00:21:02,798
(whIstle toots)

327
00:21:11,080 --> 00:21:14,470
The raIlway's dual purpose
of ferryIng quarrIed granIte

328
00:21:14,600 --> 00:21:18,388
down from the mountaIns In wInter
and carryIng tourIsts up In the summer

329
00:21:18,520 --> 00:21:21,830
kept the lIne operatIng untIl the 1950s.

330
00:21:22,720 --> 00:21:25,518
VIctorIan tourIsts could absorb
a breath of fresh aIr

331
00:21:25,640 --> 00:21:30,236
In open wagons over seven mIles,
through two magnIfIcent valleys,

332
00:21:30,360 --> 00:21:33,193
to the foot of England's
hIghest mountaIns.

333
00:21:34,360 --> 00:21:36,920
Today, It's a herItage raIlway,

334
00:21:37,040 --> 00:21:40,237
affectIonately known In
the CumbrIan dIalect as ''la'al ratty'',

335
00:21:40,360 --> 00:21:41,759
or ''lIttle raIlway''.

336
00:21:41,880 --> 00:21:45,873
I've been lookIng forward to my trIp
up to these dauntIng slopes.

337
00:21:47,160 --> 00:21:50,630
TraveIIing ith a steam engine
in an open-top carriage

338
00:21:50,760 --> 00:21:52,637
is a very speciaI experience.

339
00:21:52,760 --> 00:21:57,231
Of course, you have the constant odour
of the smoke in your nose.

340
00:21:57,360 --> 00:21:59,430
It feeIs at times as if it's raining,

341
00:21:59,560 --> 00:22:02,836
because the vapour from the stack
is faIIing on my face

342
00:22:02,960 --> 00:22:06,270
and every now and again,
a IittIe smut hits the eye,

343
00:22:06,400 --> 00:22:09,676
to remind you of the joys
of steam traveI.

344
00:22:11,880 --> 00:22:14,235
I'm told that beyond the last stop,

345
00:22:14,360 --> 00:22:17,432
the VIctorIans would also vIsIt
Wast Water, descrIbed as

346
00:22:17,560 --> 00:22:21,678
''a rather fIerce and deep stretch
of water that has claImed many lIves''.

347
00:22:21,800 --> 00:22:26,191
I thInk for today,
the traInjourney wIll suffIce.

348
00:22:35,560 --> 00:22:37,437
That was wonderfuI.
I reaIIy enjoyed it.

349
00:22:37,560 --> 00:22:39,676
- SpIendid.
- Thank you very much indeed.

350
00:22:39,800 --> 00:22:43,236
This seems Iike a modeI raiIway.
It feeIs Iike a toy.

351
00:22:43,360 --> 00:22:47,831
But I'm rather moved by the idea
that once, it had a timetabIe,

352
00:22:47,960 --> 00:22:51,509
that peopIe reIied on it
and that it carried their post.

353
00:22:53,960 --> 00:22:57,509
I've alIghted from thIs beautIful
lIttle steam servIce at Irton

354
00:22:57,640 --> 00:23:01,633
to vIsIt a VIctorIan mansIon
wIth extensIve landscaped gardens,

355
00:23:01,760 --> 00:23:03,512
known as Gatehouse.

356
00:23:05,960 --> 00:23:08,952
Bradshaw descrIbes the countrysIde
In Westmoreland,

357
00:23:09,080 --> 00:23:14,154
whIch Is now part of CumbrIa, as ''a
regIon of lofty mountaIns, naked hIlls

358
00:23:14,280 --> 00:23:15,838
and bleak, barren moors''.

359
00:23:15,960 --> 00:23:18,554
So I'm IntrIgued to know
how a garden could be conjured

360
00:23:18,680 --> 00:23:20,671
from such forbIddIng landscape.

361
00:23:22,560 --> 00:23:25,313
Local desIgner ChrIs Jones Is my guIde.

362
00:23:26,520 --> 00:23:29,432
- HeIIo, Chris.
- HeIIo. Good to see you.

363
00:23:29,560 --> 00:23:32,233
What a wonderfuI estate.
What's the history of it?

364
00:23:32,360 --> 00:23:36,035
Like so many of these
northern estates and mansions,

365
00:23:36,160 --> 00:23:41,871
it was basicaIIy northern
merchant weaIth in Victorian times,

366
00:23:42,000 --> 00:23:45,037
where they wanted to escape the cities

367
00:23:45,160 --> 00:23:48,038
and estabIish country seats
for themseIves,

368
00:23:48,160 --> 00:23:50,116
become country squires, if you Iike.

369
00:23:51,240 --> 00:23:56,268
Gatehouse was buIlt In 1 896
as a country retreat for the Rea famIly,

370
00:23:56,400 --> 00:23:59,358
wealthy LIverpudlIan
coal and shIppIng merchants.

371
00:24:00,360 --> 00:24:02,715
LIke many rIch VIctorIan IndustrIalIsts,

372
00:24:02,840 --> 00:24:05,832
they wanted both to escape
the grIme and squalor of the cIty,

373
00:24:05,960 --> 00:24:11,239
and to make theIr mark by constructIng
a thIng of beauty and grace

374
00:24:11,360 --> 00:24:13,635
that would make them
the envy of theIr peers.

375
00:24:13,760 --> 00:24:15,512
What did they have to do here?

376
00:24:15,640 --> 00:24:18,632
They bought the IocaI farm.
AII of this was a meadow.

377
00:24:18,760 --> 00:24:23,436
First of aII, they fIooded the meadow
and created this tarn, or Iake.

378
00:24:24,640 --> 00:24:26,232
They Iandscaped the whoIe area.

379
00:24:26,360 --> 00:24:29,989
AII of this pIanting here
was put in by them.

380
00:24:30,120 --> 00:24:33,476
They've got cascades,
they've got formaI gardens.

381
00:24:33,600 --> 00:24:35,431
They had orchards and so on.

382
00:24:37,160 --> 00:24:41,233
RaIlways and steam-powered lIners,
reachIng all corners of the globe,

383
00:24:41,360 --> 00:24:44,113
allowed for exploratIon and dIscovery,

384
00:24:44,240 --> 00:24:47,437
openIng up the world
for well-heeled travellers.

385
00:24:48,520 --> 00:24:51,512
Back In BrItaIn,
the upper classes were keen to recreate

386
00:24:51,640 --> 00:24:55,315
the unfamIlIar and wonderful flora
that they'd seen.

387
00:24:55,440 --> 00:24:58,273
And so the VIctorIan era
became the golden age

388
00:24:58,400 --> 00:25:02,552
for exotIc plant collectIng
and for radIcal garden desIgn.

389
00:25:03,760 --> 00:25:06,877
It was actuaIIy designed,
at Ieast in part,

390
00:25:07,000 --> 00:25:11,994
by Thomas Mawson, the Ieading
Iandscape architect of his day.

391
00:25:12,880 --> 00:25:17,431
In fact, he came up ith the expression
''Iandscape architecture'',

392
00:25:17,560 --> 00:25:21,075
because, prior to that,
it wouId be the architect themseIves

393
00:25:21,200 --> 00:25:23,270
who estabIished the gardens.

394
00:25:23,400 --> 00:25:25,436
Thomas Mawson objected to that,

395
00:25:25,560 --> 00:25:28,438
saying they didn't have the sensitivity
to create a garden.

396
00:25:32,960 --> 00:25:35,235
Thomas Mawson reshaped the landscape.

397
00:25:35,360 --> 00:25:38,875
Then, In 191 4,
he created a Japanese garden

398
00:25:39,000 --> 00:25:41,673
for Lord Rea's sons, James and Russell.

399
00:25:44,560 --> 00:25:48,348
All thIngs Eastern had become extremely
fashIonable durIng thIs perIod,

400
00:25:48,480 --> 00:25:52,029
as Japan was opened up to the West
durIng the 19th century.

401
00:25:52,160 --> 00:25:54,993
To have a Japanese garden
on your estate

402
00:25:55,120 --> 00:25:58,078
was consIdered
the heIght of sophIstIcatIon.

403
00:26:01,560 --> 00:26:06,190
So, MichaeI, can you imagine
a nice summer's evening,

404
00:26:06,320 --> 00:26:11,394
the Reas and their guests
coming on a woodIand promenade,

405
00:26:11,520 --> 00:26:14,398
after their dinner, in their finery,

406
00:26:14,520 --> 00:26:17,353
and being presented ith this
aII of a sudden?

407
00:26:17,480 --> 00:26:19,755
A unique Japanese garden.

408
00:26:19,880 --> 00:26:23,236
They must have been, the guests,
very impressed.

409
00:26:23,360 --> 00:26:25,749
These Reas have reaIIy
done something noveI,

410
00:26:25,880 --> 00:26:28,235
something reaIIy originaI
and opuIent, too.

411
00:26:28,360 --> 00:26:29,713
I think that's right.

412
00:26:29,840 --> 00:26:35,233
A Iot of these gardens were inspired
by the 1910 Japan-Britain Exhibition,

413
00:26:35,360 --> 00:26:38,079
so you've onIy got
a few gap years there,

414
00:26:38,200 --> 00:26:40,634
so there weren't
that many around at the time.

415
00:26:44,920 --> 00:26:47,115
Here we are
on a typicaI Japanese bridge.

416
00:26:47,240 --> 00:26:50,277
What are the characteristics, otherwse,
of Japanese gardens?

417
00:26:50,400 --> 00:26:53,392
(ChrIs) They were more interested
in texture, form.

418
00:26:53,520 --> 00:26:56,956
It couId be the rustIe of the bamboo,
any of those quaIities.

419
00:26:57,080 --> 00:27:00,516
It's a different sensibiIity
to British gardening.

420
00:27:00,640 --> 00:27:04,235
The Japanese gardens themseIves
are meticuIousIy cared for,

421
00:27:04,360 --> 00:27:08,672
meticuIousIy groomed,
and they're pieces of art.

422
00:27:09,760 --> 00:27:13,435
ChrIs has been workIng on the garden
for the last 12 years

423
00:27:13,560 --> 00:27:18,031
and has hIgh hopes that, one day,
he and a dedIcated band of volunteers

424
00:27:18,160 --> 00:27:23,951
wIll achIeve a tranquIl perfectIon that
would not feel out of place In Japan.

425
00:27:35,160 --> 00:27:37,071
As the IndustriaI RevoIution advanced,

426
00:27:37,200 --> 00:27:40,670
poets and artists
were gripped by Romanticism.

427
00:27:40,800 --> 00:27:44,588
A Iove of Iakes and cascades and chasms.

428
00:27:44,720 --> 00:27:49,191
As Victorians saw their Iandscape
changed by factories and cities,

429
00:27:49,320 --> 00:27:52,835
they too Ionged for nature in the raw

430
00:27:52,960 --> 00:27:56,475
and crowded onto trains
to take to the hiIIs.

431
00:28:01,960 --> 00:28:03,439
On the next step of my journey,

432
00:28:03,560 --> 00:28:07,712
I'll be explodIng the myths
behInd CumbrIan slate...

433
00:28:07,840 --> 00:28:09,558
(aIr horn sounds)

434
00:28:09,680 --> 00:28:11,352
(explosIon)

435
00:28:11,480 --> 00:28:13,675
That was a much bigger bang
than I'd expected.

436
00:28:13,800 --> 00:28:16,951
..submergIng myseIf
In a top-secret world...

437
00:28:17,080 --> 00:28:19,389
Not much room here, I can teII you.

438
00:28:19,520 --> 00:28:23,035
..and dIscoverIng why VIctorIans loved
''the HangIng Town''.

439
00:28:23,160 --> 00:28:27,836
- And this is a short drop rope.
- Meaning that they wouId be strangIed.

440
00:28:27,960 --> 00:28:30,269
- They danced on the end of the rope.
- Indeed.