0 00:00:05,760 --> 00:00:10,436 In 1 840, one man transformed travel In BrItaIn. 1 00:00:10,560 --> 00:00:13,028 HIs name was George Bradshaw 2 00:00:13,160 --> 00:00:17,551 and hIs raIlway guIdes InspIred the VIctorIans to take to the tracks. 3 00:00:18,320 --> 00:00:19,594 Stop by stop, 4 00:00:19,720 --> 00:00:21,597 he told them where to travel, 5 00:00:21,720 --> 00:00:23,915 what to see and where to stay. 6 00:00:25,440 --> 00:00:27,795 Now, 1 70 years later, 7 00:00:27,920 --> 00:00:31,708 I'm makIng a serIes ofjourneys across the length and breadth of the country 8 00:00:31,840 --> 00:00:34,718 to see what of Bradshaw's BrItaIn remaIns. 9 00:00:58,080 --> 00:01:02,835 I'm now coming to the end of a journey inspired by my Bradshaw's GuIde, 10 00:01:02,960 --> 00:01:07,590 across the north of EngIand, from the North Sea to the Irish Sea. 11 00:01:07,720 --> 00:01:09,233 The new network of raiIways 12 00:01:09,360 --> 00:01:14,070 enabIed Victorians to enjoy the beauty and the history of their country, 13 00:01:14,200 --> 00:01:18,955 and the most intrepid of them even ventured overseas. 14 00:01:19,080 --> 00:01:22,197 On my last leg of thIs raIl adventure, 15 00:01:22,320 --> 00:01:26,108 I'll be vIsItIng an Island steeped In smugglIng hIstory... 16 00:01:26,240 --> 00:01:29,471 He stepped onto his ship and his trousers spIit, 17 00:01:29,600 --> 00:01:32,273 discharging the tea into the harbour water beIow him. 18 00:01:32,400 --> 00:01:37,110 ..dIscoverIng BrItaIn's fear of enemy spIes In the Second World War... 19 00:01:37,240 --> 00:01:39,674 The British Government toId the Manx Government 20 00:01:39,800 --> 00:01:44,112 to teII aII the boarding house keepers and hoteIiers to move out 21 00:01:44,240 --> 00:01:45,434 at ten days' notice. 22 00:01:45,560 --> 00:01:49,235 ..and scalIng the heIghts to vIew seven kIngdoms. 23 00:01:49,360 --> 00:01:51,828 We're in the GuInness Book of Records for having 24 00:01:51,960 --> 00:01:53,837 the oIdest working tram in history. 25 00:01:59,000 --> 00:02:02,072 I started thIsjourney on the EnglIsh-ScottIsh border 26 00:02:02,200 --> 00:02:05,795 and It's taken me through the IndustrIal heartlands of the north of England 27 00:02:05,920 --> 00:02:08,434 as well as mesmerIsIng countrysIde. 28 00:02:08,560 --> 00:02:11,757 Now I'm on the fInal leg, across the IrIsh Sea, 29 00:02:11,880 --> 00:02:14,269 to the enIgmatIc Isle of Man. 30 00:02:14,400 --> 00:02:18,234 ThIs last stretch begIns at Heysham, before crossIng the sea to Douglas, 31 00:02:18,360 --> 00:02:19,793 the Isle of Man's capItal, 32 00:02:19,920 --> 00:02:22,832 and endIng atop the Island's only mountaIn. 33 00:02:34,320 --> 00:02:36,675 I'm headed for the IsIe of Man. 34 00:02:36,800 --> 00:02:41,954 And my Bradshaw's makes it cIear how new technoIogy had made it accessibIe. 35 00:02:42,080 --> 00:02:46,471 ''This isIand in the midst of the Irish Sea may be easiIy reached 36 00:02:46,600 --> 00:02:49,637 from the three kingdoms by a few hours' steam 37 00:02:49,760 --> 00:02:52,991 as it's onIy 70 miIes from LiverpooI.'' 38 00:02:53,120 --> 00:02:55,873 The Victorians Iiked the IsIe of Man because it was exotic, 39 00:02:56,400 --> 00:02:57,549 it was kind of abroad, 40 00:02:57,680 --> 00:03:00,114 aIthough it was reassuringIy British. 41 00:03:02,160 --> 00:03:04,628 I've taken the traIn west from Lancaster to Heysham 42 00:03:04,760 --> 00:03:07,228 at the southern end of Morecambe Bay, 43 00:03:07,360 --> 00:03:09,828 so that I can catch a ferry to the Isle of Man. 44 00:03:12,160 --> 00:03:16,153 The ferry servIce has been runnIng sInce 1 830 and I can stIll feel 45 00:03:16,280 --> 00:03:20,398 the excItement and antIcIpatIon the VIctorIan travellers felt 46 00:03:20,520 --> 00:03:22,750 as they ventured across these waters. 47 00:03:23,600 --> 00:03:25,318 Steam power shortened dIstances, 48 00:03:25,440 --> 00:03:28,557 and the VIctorIans relIshed theIr new opportunItIes. 49 00:03:28,680 --> 00:03:30,159 TraIns and steamshIps brought 50 00:03:30,280 --> 00:03:34,239 prevIously far off destInatIons wIthIn comfortable reach. 51 00:03:37,320 --> 00:03:40,073 Ships are no Ionger powered by steam, 52 00:03:40,200 --> 00:03:45,797 but this is the oIdest continuaIIy operating ferry company in the worId. 53 00:03:45,920 --> 00:03:51,040 And George Bradshaw wouId be deIighted that its stiII caIIed Steam Packet. 54 00:03:51,160 --> 00:03:54,596 AIthough I might have to expIain to him the ''dot com''. 55 00:03:56,600 --> 00:04:00,639 Packets were tradItIonally scheduled cargo and passenger shIps. 56 00:04:00,760 --> 00:04:04,878 And because theIr orIgInal functIon had been to carry maIl, 57 00:04:05,000 --> 00:04:07,195 the name ''packet'' stuck. 58 00:04:07,320 --> 00:04:09,038 Before the advent of ferry servIces, 59 00:04:09,160 --> 00:04:12,835 saIl packet crossIngs to the Isle of Man had been perIlous. 60 00:04:12,960 --> 00:04:16,669 ShIps were often forced back to England after days at sea. 61 00:04:16,800 --> 00:04:22,238 And durIng the wInter months, the Island could be cut off for weeks at a tIme. 62 00:04:22,360 --> 00:04:24,954 Today, thankfully, In beautIful weather, 63 00:04:25,080 --> 00:04:28,117 the crossIng wIll seem, If anythIng, too short. 64 00:04:28,240 --> 00:04:31,755 Like a Victorian tourist bound for the IsIe of Man, 65 00:04:31,880 --> 00:04:34,235 I bid goodbye to the EngIish coast. 66 00:04:34,360 --> 00:04:39,673 But unIike a Victorian, I Ieave behind Heysham NucIear Power Station. 67 00:04:41,160 --> 00:04:43,720 Nuclear power Isjust one of the many changes 68 00:04:43,840 --> 00:04:46,354 to both the physIcal and cultural landscape 69 00:04:46,480 --> 00:04:49,233 that would today astonIsh VIctorIan tourIsts, 70 00:04:49,360 --> 00:04:52,989 who In theIr day vIsIted the Isle of Man en masse. 71 00:04:53,760 --> 00:04:57,594 Once upon a tIme, the Island had a roguIsh reputatIon. 72 00:04:57,720 --> 00:05:01,076 Author RIchard Platt has come aboard to enlIghten me. 73 00:05:01,200 --> 00:05:04,431 - MichaeI. Hi. - Very good to see you. 74 00:05:04,560 --> 00:05:08,189 My Bradshaw's teIIs me that at one time 75 00:05:08,320 --> 00:05:13,075 the chief prosperity of the IsIe of Man arose from smuggIing. Can that be true? 76 00:05:13,200 --> 00:05:17,398 The IsIe of Man was more or Iess independent of the EngIish crown 77 00:05:17,520 --> 00:05:20,637 for about three centuries from the beginning of the 15th century. 78 00:05:20,760 --> 00:05:24,799 And the taxes on the IsIe of Man were very, very Iow. 79 00:05:24,920 --> 00:05:26,831 Enormous quantities of contraband 80 00:05:26,960 --> 00:05:30,714 were smuggIed from the IsIe of Man back to EngIand. 81 00:05:30,840 --> 00:05:33,752 And it wasn't just what we normaIIy associate ith smuggIing, 82 00:05:33,880 --> 00:05:36,792 so aIthough there was things Iike brandy and tobacco, 83 00:05:36,920 --> 00:05:40,515 there were aII sorts of commodities Iike tea, which were highIy taxed. 84 00:05:43,520 --> 00:05:46,671 There was a huge expansIon of Illegal Imports Into BrItaIn 85 00:05:46,800 --> 00:05:49,633 In the 1 8th and early 19th centurIes. 86 00:05:49,760 --> 00:05:51,990 DurIng thIs tIme, taxes rose dramatIcally 87 00:05:52,120 --> 00:05:55,032 to pay for expensIve European wars. 88 00:05:55,160 --> 00:05:57,833 FarmIng was strugglIng and poverty was rIsIng. 89 00:05:57,960 --> 00:06:02,397 Lawless or spIrIted cItIzens fought back wIth smugglIng. 90 00:06:03,600 --> 00:06:07,229 And did this penetrate far into IsIe of Man society? 91 00:06:07,360 --> 00:06:10,591 AbsoIuteIy, it went right from the very, very top of society 92 00:06:10,720 --> 00:06:12,915 to the Iowest IeveIs. 93 00:06:13,040 --> 00:06:16,032 There's a story about a schooI teacher caIIed MyIes Crowe, 94 00:06:16,160 --> 00:06:19,914 who was smuggIing contraband in the earIy Victorian times. 95 00:06:20,040 --> 00:06:22,793 And he was an incompetent smuggIer. 96 00:06:22,920 --> 00:06:24,797 It was very fashionabIe at that time 97 00:06:24,920 --> 00:06:28,117 for men to wear baggy trousers buckIed beIow the knee. 98 00:06:28,240 --> 00:06:32,233 And he was a sIim, gaunt sort of figure, so what he did was 99 00:06:32,360 --> 00:06:36,035 he bought a pair of these baggy trousers and fiIIed them up ith tea. 100 00:06:36,160 --> 00:06:41,837 And he was discovered when he stepped onto his ship and his trousers spIit, 101 00:06:41,960 --> 00:06:44,633 discharging the tea into the harbour water beIow him. 102 00:06:44,760 --> 00:06:47,877 Just add water, that's how you make tea. That's how it's done 103 00:06:48,000 --> 00:06:50,036 ExactIy right, that's just what happened. 104 00:06:51,040 --> 00:06:54,555 Tobacco was a favourIte luxury targeted by smugglers, 105 00:06:54,680 --> 00:06:58,514 many of whom were well-to-do merchants who could deprIve the BrItIsh Treasury 106 00:06:58,640 --> 00:07:01,916 of hundreds of thousands of pounds In lost revenue. 107 00:07:02,720 --> 00:07:04,597 Contrary to the romantIc Image 108 00:07:04,720 --> 00:07:09,032 of a strIped-jersey-clad smuggler rollIng barrels up a moonlIt beach, 109 00:07:09,160 --> 00:07:14,234 most smugglIng was well organIsed and took place on pItch-black nIghts. 110 00:07:14,360 --> 00:07:18,069 But wIth so much money to be made, even by lone IndIvIduals, 111 00:07:18,200 --> 00:07:21,670 smugglers lIke our IntrepId school teacher were undaunted. 112 00:07:21,800 --> 00:07:24,030 When he tried to smuggIe tobacco, 113 00:07:24,160 --> 00:07:27,789 tobacco at that stage was wound into ropes or ribbons, 114 00:07:27,920 --> 00:07:31,833 and what he did was to undress and wrap the tobacco around him. 115 00:07:31,960 --> 00:07:33,837 This was quite a common technique, 116 00:07:33,960 --> 00:07:37,635 but smuggIers usuaIIy had the sense to wrap it over their underwear 117 00:07:37,760 --> 00:07:41,719 and MyIes Crowe made the mistake of stripping compIeteIy naked 118 00:07:41,840 --> 00:07:43,751 and wrapping himseIf in tobacco. 119 00:07:43,880 --> 00:07:46,599 And the resuIt of this was that when he got on the ship, 120 00:07:46,720 --> 00:07:51,350 the nicotine from the tobacco was permeating through his skin 121 00:07:51,480 --> 00:07:54,756 and it sent him into a compIete narcotic fog. 122 00:07:54,880 --> 00:07:56,791 He was having a nicotine high. 123 00:07:56,920 --> 00:07:59,150 He was having a very big nicotine high 124 00:07:59,280 --> 00:08:02,113 and a member of the crew discovered the tobacco 125 00:08:02,240 --> 00:08:03,753 and the captain was outraged 126 00:08:03,880 --> 00:08:07,031 that he might be prosecuted for this smuggIing activity, 127 00:08:07,160 --> 00:08:10,550 so he turned MyIes Crowe over to the customs authorities 128 00:08:10,680 --> 00:08:13,797 and there's a description of him being unwound Iike a top. 129 00:08:13,920 --> 00:08:16,832 As they puIIed the tobacco off him, he spun on his heeIs. 130 00:08:18,360 --> 00:08:20,430 In the late 1 8th century, 131 00:08:20,560 --> 00:08:24,394 the BrItIsh Government fInally tIred of the huge tax losses 132 00:08:24,520 --> 00:08:27,717 and secretly purchased the Island from the owner the Duke of Atholl. 133 00:08:28,720 --> 00:08:31,518 That brought It under the control of BrItIsh customs, 134 00:08:31,640 --> 00:08:36,236 makIng It much harder for the Islanders to maIntaIn a base for smugglIng. 135 00:08:36,360 --> 00:08:40,956 Fortunately for them, In the 19th century, a new source of Income opened. 136 00:08:41,080 --> 00:08:42,513 Mass tourIsm. 137 00:08:50,800 --> 00:08:53,360 DougIas, according to my Bradshaw's GuIde, 138 00:08:53,480 --> 00:08:59,032 ''is a pIeasant bathing and fishing port in front of a fine bay''. 139 00:08:59,160 --> 00:09:03,597 And ith these IoveIy white terraces down at the seafront, 140 00:09:03,720 --> 00:09:07,838 it has aII the feeI of a Victorian resort. 141 00:09:10,720 --> 00:09:14,793 The VIctorIans are credIted wIth InventIng the seasIde holIday. 142 00:09:14,920 --> 00:09:18,708 As raIlways made access to the coast fast and InexpensIve, 143 00:09:18,840 --> 00:09:22,879 seasIde towns shaped themselves Into resorts. 144 00:09:23,000 --> 00:09:24,638 In the late 19th century, 145 00:09:24,760 --> 00:09:28,036 the workIng classes enjoyed Increased leIsure tIme and wages 146 00:09:28,160 --> 00:09:32,073 and ImItated the well-heeled travellers by becomIng tourIsts. 147 00:09:33,760 --> 00:09:37,753 Such holIdaymakers, clutchIng theIr ''Bradshaw's GuIde'', 148 00:09:37,880 --> 00:09:41,156 mIght have alIghted from the ferry to catch a horse-drawn tram, 149 00:09:41,280 --> 00:09:43,157 precIsely as I'm doIng. 150 00:09:44,360 --> 00:09:47,238 My drIver, or ''tram lad'', Is Peter Cannon. 151 00:09:48,960 --> 00:09:51,758 - Do go to the Regency HoteI? - We go right past the door. 152 00:09:51,880 --> 00:09:52,915 - May I hop in? - Jump on. 153 00:09:59,120 --> 00:10:02,635 Peter, I never dreamed that I'd be abIe to ride on a horse-drawn tram 154 00:10:02,760 --> 00:10:03,749 in the 21st century. 155 00:10:03,880 --> 00:10:05,108 When did aII this begin? 156 00:10:05,240 --> 00:10:08,277 (Peter) 1876 it started. 157 00:10:08,400 --> 00:10:10,197 So what was the point of it? 158 00:10:10,320 --> 00:10:13,630 WeII, a gentIemen caIIed Thomas Lightfoot retired here from EngIand, 159 00:10:13,760 --> 00:10:18,151 saw the potentiaI to make a few shiIIings, I think, and set it up. 160 00:10:18,280 --> 00:10:22,956 At the time the IsIe of Man was taking off a bit at a tourist resort. 161 00:10:23,080 --> 00:10:24,752 Saw a gap in the market, I think. 162 00:10:24,880 --> 00:10:27,030 (MIchael) It's run continuousIy ever since? 163 00:10:27,160 --> 00:10:32,234 Apart from the Second WorId War, we're in the 135th year now. 164 00:10:34,080 --> 00:10:36,878 ''Bradshaw's'' descrIbes Douglas, the Island's capItal, 165 00:10:37,000 --> 00:10:39,912 as ''the most lIvely place on the Island, 166 00:10:40,040 --> 00:10:44,431 and the horses trot brIskly the length of the VIctorIan promenade. '' 167 00:10:44,560 --> 00:10:48,314 WIth tourIsm at Its heIght In the VIctorIan and EdwardIan eras, 168 00:10:48,440 --> 00:10:53,195 amazIngly, the horse trams conveyed a mIllIon passengers each season. 169 00:10:53,320 --> 00:10:58,110 It's the world's oldest survIvIng horse-drawn tram servIce 170 00:10:58,240 --> 00:11:02,950 and It runs on tracks, makIng It, In my book anyway, a raIlway. 171 00:11:03,080 --> 00:11:04,798 How Iong have you been ith the tram? 172 00:11:04,920 --> 00:11:07,480 Erm, some peopIe might say too Iong. 173 00:11:08,640 --> 00:11:12,713 1975 I started, so I've been here for 35 years. 174 00:11:12,840 --> 00:11:15,115 (MIchael) And was it busier in those days? 175 00:11:15,240 --> 00:11:16,878 (Peter) Yes. 176 00:11:17,000 --> 00:11:20,231 At the moment we run a 20-minute seRVice. 177 00:11:20,360 --> 00:11:24,433 When I first started we'd probabIy run a two-and-a-haIf minute seRVice. 178 00:11:24,560 --> 00:11:29,429 So, erm, that wouId be 16 trams. Now it's onIy two. 179 00:11:29,560 --> 00:11:31,312 And how many horses today? 180 00:11:31,440 --> 00:11:34,910 Today we've got 20 working horses 181 00:11:35,040 --> 00:11:38,828 and some younger ones who are just going through the training process. 182 00:11:38,960 --> 00:11:41,793 Easy, Iad, easy, easy, easy. 183 00:11:41,920 --> 00:11:44,229 (MIchael) What sort of horses do you use? 184 00:11:44,360 --> 00:11:46,237 BasicaIIy, they're CIydesdaIes. 185 00:11:46,360 --> 00:11:47,952 Shires wouId be too heavy, 186 00:11:48,080 --> 00:11:51,038 so CIydesdaIes are just about right for this sort of thing. 187 00:11:59,120 --> 00:12:00,599 This is your stop, MichaeI. 188 00:12:00,720 --> 00:12:02,870 - Thank you very much, Peter. - You're weIcome. 189 00:12:03,000 --> 00:12:04,991 - Thank you then. - CaII again. 190 00:12:05,120 --> 00:12:06,473 Thank you. 191 00:12:08,200 --> 00:12:12,990 I've descended from the charmIng tram onto the grand VIctorIan seafront 192 00:12:13,120 --> 00:12:16,237 In order to fInd my lodgIngs for the nIght. 193 00:12:16,360 --> 00:12:19,716 For once, George Bradshaw Is less than complImentary 194 00:12:19,840 --> 00:12:22,479 about some of the Island's accommodatIon. 195 00:12:22,600 --> 00:12:25,239 According to Bradshaw's, in the IsIe of Man, 196 00:12:25,360 --> 00:12:28,796 ''there are no roadside inns worth the name,'' 197 00:12:28,920 --> 00:12:32,799 and ''the aIe is wretched stuff''. 198 00:12:32,920 --> 00:12:35,593 But then he says that Iiving is toIerabIy cheap here 199 00:12:35,720 --> 00:12:37,119 and the Iodgings moderate. 200 00:12:37,240 --> 00:12:42,234 He says, ''ExceIIent board and Iodging being had for £30 per annum.'' 201 00:12:42,360 --> 00:12:44,828 ActuaIIy, I wasn't thinking of staying that Iong. 202 00:12:46,560 --> 00:12:50,235 After a fascInatIng day's travel, I plan to get an early nIght 203 00:12:50,360 --> 00:12:54,638 and rIse wIth the lark,just as my VIctorIan forebears mIght have done, 204 00:12:54,760 --> 00:12:59,072 as I sense that there are many more treats to come on thIs quIrky Island. 205 00:13:10,560 --> 00:13:15,429 The Regency has served many vIsItors over Its 150 year career. 206 00:13:15,560 --> 00:13:19,348 But I understand that the Second World War brought long-term guests 207 00:13:19,480 --> 00:13:22,597 who weren't vIsItIng of theIr own free wIll. 208 00:13:22,720 --> 00:13:25,757 IntrIgued, I'm meetIng local radIo presenter 209 00:13:25,880 --> 00:13:29,714 and voIce of the Isle of Man for 30 years, Terry CrIngle. 210 00:13:30,680 --> 00:13:32,238 Good morning, Terry. 211 00:13:32,360 --> 00:13:36,239 Good morning, MichaeI, weIcome to the IsIe of Man. (translates Into Manx) 212 00:13:36,360 --> 00:13:37,509 Very good to see you. 213 00:13:37,640 --> 00:13:40,632 I beIieve you come from this very spot, more or Iess? 214 00:13:40,760 --> 00:13:43,228 Yes, this is my home territory. 215 00:13:43,360 --> 00:13:46,238 Behind you, you see that bIock of apartments. 216 00:13:46,360 --> 00:13:49,158 Before that was buiIt, there was a bIock of boarding houses, 217 00:13:49,280 --> 00:13:50,633 private hoteIs, if you ish. 218 00:13:50,760 --> 00:13:53,274 My parents' one was right in the middIe of it. 219 00:13:53,400 --> 00:13:55,072 That's where I was born. 220 00:13:55,200 --> 00:13:59,034 The shore down there was my adventure pIayground. 221 00:13:59,160 --> 00:14:01,435 I Ioved it and I stiII do, actuaIIy. 222 00:14:01,560 --> 00:14:03,835 - So, your parents had a boarding house? - Yes. 223 00:14:03,960 --> 00:14:06,872 - Made a good Iiving? - Oh, yes, they did. 224 00:14:07,000 --> 00:14:11,516 I mean, taIking about the '30s now, that was when thousands of peopIe 225 00:14:11,640 --> 00:14:14,837 came to the IsIe of Man on hoIiday, not Iike today. 226 00:14:14,960 --> 00:14:17,235 It was known as the pIayground of Lancashire. 227 00:14:17,360 --> 00:14:19,828 What's your most enduring memory of chiIdhood? 228 00:14:19,960 --> 00:14:25,193 ObviousIy the war. I was eight years oId when it started, 1939. 229 00:14:25,320 --> 00:14:28,232 And everything changed dramaticaIIy. 230 00:14:28,360 --> 00:14:30,635 EspeciaIIy when it came to 1940. 231 00:14:30,760 --> 00:14:34,912 That was when the British government toId the Manx government 232 00:14:35,040 --> 00:14:38,157 to teII aII the boarding-house keepers and hoteIiers 233 00:14:38,280 --> 00:14:40,430 to move out at ten days' notice. 234 00:14:40,560 --> 00:14:42,994 Get out compIeteIy, find somewhere eIse to Iive. 235 00:14:43,120 --> 00:14:45,429 Find another way of making a Iiving. 236 00:14:45,560 --> 00:14:48,996 - And it was very drastic. - Why was this? 237 00:14:49,120 --> 00:14:52,715 This was because the pIan was to turn aII these buiIdings 238 00:14:52,840 --> 00:14:57,231 into internment camps for enemy aIiens. 239 00:14:57,360 --> 00:15:01,558 They were German, Austrian, peopIe who happened to be 240 00:15:01,680 --> 00:15:06,037 Iiving in Britain at the time and found themseIves on the wrong side of the war. 241 00:15:06,160 --> 00:15:09,948 And they were swept up and brought over here, thousands of them, 242 00:15:10,080 --> 00:15:13,789 because they might have been a potentiaI threat to nationaI security. 243 00:15:15,320 --> 00:15:18,710 WorrIed by the possIbIlIty of spIes InfIltratIng the war effort, 244 00:15:18,840 --> 00:15:22,833 the BrItIsh government sent 1 4,000 enemy alIens 245 00:15:22,960 --> 00:15:25,030 to be Interned on the Isle of Man. 246 00:15:25,160 --> 00:15:26,912 The hotel where I stayed last nIght 247 00:15:27,040 --> 00:15:30,237 was one of the many used as an Internment camp. 248 00:15:30,360 --> 00:15:33,909 One of the Internees, ItalIan SIgnor GIovannellI, 249 00:15:34,040 --> 00:15:37,430 gIves an ImpressIon of a very seIf-suffIcIent communIty. 250 00:15:38,560 --> 00:15:42,394 ''In the basement was the barber shop, the carpenter's shop 251 00:15:42,520 --> 00:15:44,158 and the weIfare offIce 252 00:15:44,280 --> 00:15:47,750 and an ItalIan elementary school, whIch I ran for the saIlors 253 00:15:47,880 --> 00:15:51,156 who couldn't read or wrIte, even In theIr own language. '' 254 00:15:52,880 --> 00:15:56,190 - What happened to your parents? - They were fortunate. 255 00:15:56,320 --> 00:15:58,550 Their boarding-house was handy 256 00:15:58,680 --> 00:16:03,231 and that was not requisitioned, they didn't have to get out. 257 00:16:03,360 --> 00:16:06,796 But it was turned into biIIets for the British army guards, 258 00:16:06,920 --> 00:16:08,956 who guarded the prison camps. 259 00:16:09,080 --> 00:16:12,231 But for me, the soIdiers in the house was tremendous. 260 00:16:12,360 --> 00:16:17,753 Khaki uniforms and bayonets and Short Lee-EnfieId rifIes. 261 00:16:17,880 --> 00:16:19,029 That was great. 262 00:16:20,360 --> 00:16:24,831 The Isle of Man Isn't part of the UnIted Kingdom, but a Crown dependency 263 00:16:24,960 --> 00:16:26,757 and Its parlIament at the Tynwald 264 00:16:26,880 --> 00:16:30,350 has been In exIstence for over a thousand years. 265 00:16:30,480 --> 00:16:34,553 The Island's known as a tax haven because It's able to pass Its own laws 266 00:16:34,680 --> 00:16:38,309 and to levy taxes at much lower rates than BrItaIn's. 267 00:16:40,960 --> 00:16:45,590 My Bradshaw's GuIde teIIs me about the history of smuggIing on the isIand. 268 00:16:45,720 --> 00:16:48,837 That was a time when peopIe didn't want to pay the British taxes. 269 00:16:48,960 --> 00:16:50,439 Today it's a Iow tax regime. 270 00:16:50,560 --> 00:16:54,269 Is there a kind of anti-estabIishment feeIing amongst Manx peopIe, 271 00:16:54,400 --> 00:16:57,233 that they don't want to pay too much over to government? 272 00:16:57,360 --> 00:16:59,032 That's true enough. 273 00:16:59,160 --> 00:17:01,276 They beIieved, as far as they were concerned, 274 00:17:01,400 --> 00:17:05,029 this was their isIand, they wanted to run it their way. That stiII appIies. 275 00:17:05,160 --> 00:17:06,593 I think, to this day, 276 00:17:06,720 --> 00:17:11,236 because we stiII have a IittIe troubIe over taxes ith the UK. 277 00:17:11,360 --> 00:17:13,476 I think down there in London they stiII say, 278 00:17:13,600 --> 00:17:16,034 ''The IsIe of Man is a smuggIing centre, you know.'' 279 00:17:16,160 --> 00:17:20,790 I know it's 250 years ago, but I think the spirit is stiII there. 280 00:17:24,960 --> 00:17:27,235 The Islanders' fIercely Independent character 281 00:17:27,360 --> 00:17:30,750 has brought It to occasIonal frIctIon wIth the UnIted Kingdom. 282 00:17:31,680 --> 00:17:35,355 And I ImagIne that when the VIctorIans were flockIng to the Island to holIday, 283 00:17:35,480 --> 00:17:40,031 the encounter wIth a dIstInct cultural IdentIty was IntrIguIng. 284 00:17:40,160 --> 00:17:43,948 It's one of the thIngs that even now rewards the traveller. 285 00:17:44,080 --> 00:17:45,399 In Bradshaw's day, 286 00:17:45,520 --> 00:17:49,832 the Island wasn't wholly relIant on tourIsm for Its wealth. 287 00:17:49,960 --> 00:17:51,916 VIctorIan engIneerIng success 288 00:17:52,040 --> 00:17:55,077 allowed the Isle of Man to exploIt Its mInes, too. 289 00:17:55,200 --> 00:17:58,636 In the entry for Laxey, my Bradshaw's says, 290 00:17:58,760 --> 00:18:05,233 ''Kirk Lonan is on a stream which passes mines of Iead, copper and sIate.'' 291 00:18:05,360 --> 00:18:09,797 So, it's time to put on the hard hat. 292 00:18:12,360 --> 00:18:15,955 Laxey Is a small vIllage, just seven mIles north of Douglas 293 00:18:16,080 --> 00:18:17,798 on the east coast of the Island, 294 00:18:17,920 --> 00:18:21,435 where lead and zInc mInIng began In the 1 8th century. 295 00:18:21,560 --> 00:18:25,394 My guIde In the tunnels Is local hIstorIan Andrew Scarf. 296 00:18:26,960 --> 00:18:31,158 Bradshaw's GuIde teIIs me they mined copper and Iead here. Is that right? 297 00:18:31,280 --> 00:18:34,795 (Andrew) That's right, MichaeI, yes. Lead was the main mineraI. 298 00:18:34,920 --> 00:18:37,514 It was a very vaIuabIe ore at the time. 299 00:18:37,640 --> 00:18:39,835 Was this a fairIy extensive mine? 300 00:18:39,960 --> 00:18:41,712 It was indeed. The section we're in now 301 00:18:41,840 --> 00:18:44,513 is onIy reaIIy a very smaII portion of the mine. 302 00:18:44,640 --> 00:18:47,791 OriginaIIy it went down to about 2,000ft deep. 303 00:18:49,560 --> 00:18:52,438 Once the raIlways arrIved from the 1 830s onwards, 304 00:18:52,560 --> 00:18:56,235 excellent buIldIng materIals could be carrIed around the country. 305 00:18:56,360 --> 00:18:59,113 WhIlst lead was popular as a roofIng materIal, 306 00:18:59,240 --> 00:19:02,630 Iron provIded the superstructure for monumental buIldIngs, 307 00:19:02,760 --> 00:19:05,069 such as the Kew Gardens greenhouses 308 00:19:05,200 --> 00:19:07,794 and the spectacular spans at raIlway statIons, 309 00:19:07,920 --> 00:19:11,629 such as Newcastle Central and London St Pancras. 310 00:19:12,960 --> 00:19:16,430 I see we're waIking on tracks. Was there a raiIway system in the mine? 311 00:19:16,560 --> 00:19:18,630 There was. There was a smaII steam raiIway 312 00:19:18,760 --> 00:19:22,036 that ran in for about two miIes underground. As far as I'm aware, 313 00:19:22,160 --> 00:19:24,833 it was the onIy mine in Britain that had a raiIway 314 00:19:24,960 --> 00:19:27,838 that went in such a manner underground for such a Iength. 315 00:19:27,960 --> 00:19:31,396 That was used to bring the mine mineraIs out to the surface. 316 00:19:32,560 --> 00:19:36,109 OrIgInally, ponIes hauled the wagons full of ore, 317 00:19:36,240 --> 00:19:40,677 but In 1 877, two mInIature steam locomotIves named Ant and Bee 318 00:19:40,800 --> 00:19:43,234 replaced horse power. 319 00:19:43,360 --> 00:19:46,397 The raIlway ran the full length of the maIn level of the mIne, 320 00:19:46,520 --> 00:19:49,478 carryIng ore out to the washIng floors above ground, 321 00:19:49,600 --> 00:19:52,068 where It was prepared for shIppIng. 322 00:19:52,200 --> 00:19:56,432 But the mIne's IngenIous steam raIlway wasn't the only feat 323 00:19:56,560 --> 00:20:01,236 of VIctorIan engIneerIng brIllIance developed here on the Isle of Man. 324 00:20:01,360 --> 00:20:04,033 We came in just now from what appeared to be ground IeveI 325 00:20:04,160 --> 00:20:06,515 and yet this mine is sopping wet. 326 00:20:06,640 --> 00:20:08,631 We've been dripped on aII the way through. 327 00:20:08,760 --> 00:20:10,637 Water's obviousIy been a probIem here. 328 00:20:10,760 --> 00:20:13,558 It was a major probIem right through the history of the mine, 329 00:20:13,680 --> 00:20:16,433 ith the water seeping in, fIooding the Iower workings. 330 00:20:16,560 --> 00:20:18,630 (MIchael) And so what did they do about that? 331 00:20:18,760 --> 00:20:20,796 There's no coaI on the IsIe of Man 332 00:20:20,920 --> 00:20:23,832 to buiId a traditionaI steam pumping engine, 333 00:20:23,960 --> 00:20:25,757 so they actuaIIy used the water, 334 00:20:25,880 --> 00:20:28,440 which was the probIem, to drive a water wheeI. 335 00:20:32,360 --> 00:20:34,715 And notjust any water wheel. 336 00:20:34,840 --> 00:20:39,391 Lady Isabella Is the bIggest workIng water wheel In the world. 337 00:20:40,560 --> 00:20:43,438 Way ahead of Its tIme as an eco-powered pump, 338 00:20:43,560 --> 00:20:48,031 thIs dramatIc example of VIctorIan engIneerIng, buIlt In 1 854, 339 00:20:48,160 --> 00:20:52,199 pumped an astonIshIng 250 gallons of water per mInute 340 00:20:52,320 --> 00:20:54,788 from the mIne 1500ft below. 341 00:20:57,160 --> 00:20:59,913 It reaIIy is a fantastic piece of machinery. 342 00:21:00,040 --> 00:21:00,995 How big is it? 343 00:21:01,120 --> 00:21:06,240 It's 72' 6'' in diameter, six feet ide and 227ft circumference. 344 00:21:06,360 --> 00:21:08,715 It's the worId's biggest working water wheeI. 345 00:21:10,760 --> 00:21:12,876 WhIlst the wheel operated nIght and day 346 00:21:13,000 --> 00:21:15,992 to keep the water-logged tunnels safe for the mIners, 347 00:21:16,120 --> 00:21:18,793 It also became Immensely attractIve to tourIsts, 348 00:21:18,920 --> 00:21:24,790 an astoundIng 13,000 vIsItIng In 1 877 alone. 349 00:21:26,160 --> 00:21:29,436 Was this created by one of the great Victorian engineers? 350 00:21:29,560 --> 00:21:31,835 It was created by a chap caIIed Robert Casement, 351 00:21:31,960 --> 00:21:36,556 who was born here in Laxey. He was a seIf-taught engineer. 352 00:21:37,280 --> 00:21:41,319 Because I wouId say this was one of the great Victorian engineering wonders, 353 00:21:41,440 --> 00:21:43,237 but it was created by a IocaI man. 354 00:21:43,360 --> 00:21:46,875 It was indeed, yes. SeIf-taught man, engineer and miIIwright. 355 00:21:47,000 --> 00:21:48,956 This was a very famous opening in its day. 356 00:21:49,080 --> 00:21:52,470 I've got here an IsIe of Man £20 note. 357 00:21:52,600 --> 00:21:55,990 And this shows the opening ceremony. 358 00:21:56,120 --> 00:21:59,430 A wonderfuI iIIustration of aII these Victorians gathered around. 359 00:21:59,560 --> 00:22:03,792 Yeah, September 1854 and there was about 3,000 peopIe who came out to Laxey 360 00:22:03,920 --> 00:22:06,957 to itness the officiaI opening ceremony of the new water wheeI. 361 00:22:13,960 --> 00:22:16,235 Both the water wheel and the raIlway 362 00:22:16,360 --> 00:22:20,035 have been restored to theIr full VIctorIan glory. 363 00:22:20,160 --> 00:22:22,549 The locomotIves ply agaIn along the route 364 00:22:22,680 --> 00:22:24,716 where the metal ores once travelled, 365 00:22:24,840 --> 00:22:27,832 a quarter of a mIle up the valley to the mIne entrance. 366 00:22:28,840 --> 00:22:30,796 - You aII Iook spIendid. - Yes, thank you. 367 00:22:30,920 --> 00:22:32,035 (MIchael) Very smart. 368 00:22:32,160 --> 00:22:36,631 Never desIgned for passengers, It's perfectly formed but small. 369 00:22:36,760 --> 00:22:39,320 It's quite Iow, isn't it? WeII, in I go. 370 00:22:43,000 --> 00:22:44,513 (whIstle toots) 371 00:22:52,640 --> 00:22:56,235 The IsIe of Man seems to be Iaced ith raiIway Iines. 372 00:22:56,360 --> 00:22:58,794 It's a kind of train spotters' paradise. 373 00:22:58,920 --> 00:23:02,230 And unfortunateIy during my brief stay on the isIand, 374 00:23:02,360 --> 00:23:07,593 I've onIy had the chance to visit one, two, three of the many that there are. 375 00:23:09,040 --> 00:23:11,713 I'm comIng to the end of both my ''Bradshaw's''journey 376 00:23:11,840 --> 00:23:13,478 and my vIsIt to the Isle of Man. 377 00:23:13,600 --> 00:23:18,230 But I don't Intend to leave before usIng the thIrd raIlway on my wIsh-lIst, 378 00:23:18,360 --> 00:23:21,636 whIch promIses to be the most spectacular. 379 00:23:21,760 --> 00:23:25,912 I'm about to go up the mountain of SnaefeII, 380 00:23:26,040 --> 00:23:27,553 and according to my Bradshaw's, 381 00:23:27,680 --> 00:23:33,630 ''the view from the summit embraces the isIand and the sea in which it is set''. 382 00:23:33,760 --> 00:23:39,039 ''As far as the shores of EngIand, WaIes, ScotIand and IreIand, 383 00:23:39,160 --> 00:23:42,152 if the air is sufficientIy cIear.'' 384 00:23:42,280 --> 00:23:45,238 According to IocaIs, if the air isn't sufficientIy cIear, 385 00:23:45,360 --> 00:23:49,592 Iike on a wet day Iike today, you can't see your hand in front of you. 386 00:23:53,440 --> 00:23:57,638 By the mIddle of the 19th century, the VIctorIans had overcome theIr fears 387 00:23:57,760 --> 00:24:00,035 of the revolutIonary raIlway technology 388 00:24:00,160 --> 00:24:04,836 that they'd once thought mIght suffocate or boIl Its passengers. 389 00:24:04,960 --> 00:24:09,033 In fact, the majorIty of the populace had fallen In love wIth raIl travel, 390 00:24:09,160 --> 00:24:11,833 so the thrIvIng tourIst Industry on the Isle of Man 391 00:24:11,960 --> 00:24:16,715 encouraged the development of 70 mIles of steam and electrIc raIlways 392 00:24:16,840 --> 00:24:20,992 to satIsfy thIs thIrst for adventure and exploratIon. 393 00:24:24,760 --> 00:24:30,118 One example Is about to take me to the peak of the only mountaIn on the Island. 394 00:24:35,600 --> 00:24:36,555 HeIIo. 395 00:24:36,680 --> 00:24:40,275 I've chosen to travel on the Snaefell MountaIn RaIlway, 396 00:24:40,400 --> 00:24:42,914 whIch ascends fIve mIles from Laxey 397 00:24:43,040 --> 00:24:46,874 to the summIt of Snaefell, 2,000ft above sea level. 398 00:24:49,720 --> 00:24:52,996 RaIlway worker RIchard LIttle Is my fellow passenger. 399 00:24:55,040 --> 00:24:57,952 - Richard. - Hi, MichaeI. 400 00:24:58,080 --> 00:25:00,992 This is an eIectric raiIway, a fairIy earIy eIectric raiIway. 401 00:25:01,120 --> 00:25:02,678 I was intrigued when I was up there 402 00:25:02,800 --> 00:25:05,951 that there's a raised third raiI in the middIe. What's that? 403 00:25:06,080 --> 00:25:07,308 (RIchard) A feII raiI. 404 00:25:07,440 --> 00:25:09,396 That's necessary for the tram to cIasp it 405 00:25:09,520 --> 00:25:11,715 to protect it from the inds and turbuIence, 406 00:25:11,840 --> 00:25:14,479 which, as you can see, are quite strong on this mountain. 407 00:25:14,600 --> 00:25:16,192 - Stop us bIoing off the top? - Yes. 408 00:25:23,480 --> 00:25:28,634 Snaefell ElectrIc RaIlway was buIlt In 1 895 Injust seven months, 409 00:25:28,760 --> 00:25:31,399 fIve mIles straIght up the mountaIn. 410 00:25:31,520 --> 00:25:34,796 It's the only electrIc mountaIn raIlway In the BrItIsh Isles, 411 00:25:34,920 --> 00:25:39,630 and It relIes solely on raIl adhesIon to overcome the steep gradIents. 412 00:25:39,760 --> 00:25:42,069 And rIdIng on It more than a century later, 413 00:25:42,200 --> 00:25:44,873 It's ajoy to experIence a VIctorIan desIgn 414 00:25:45,000 --> 00:25:48,231 so lIttle changed sInce Its InceptIon. 415 00:25:48,360 --> 00:25:51,591 You've got a very picturesque fIeet of cars. 416 00:25:51,720 --> 00:25:53,358 Are they reproductions? 417 00:25:53,480 --> 00:25:56,916 No, no, aII our roIIing stock is aII the originaIs. 418 00:25:57,040 --> 00:25:59,156 So, we're taIking about 1890s roIIing stock? 419 00:25:59,280 --> 00:26:02,556 Yes, yes. In fact, we're in the GuInness Book of Records 420 00:26:02,680 --> 00:26:04,079 for Manx EIectric RaiIway 421 00:26:04,200 --> 00:26:09,593 for having the oIdest working tram in history, so... doing weII. 422 00:26:09,720 --> 00:26:12,792 You can just imagine then that in these very cars, 423 00:26:12,920 --> 00:26:16,435 Victorian tourists wouId have taken this trip up to the top of SnaefeII. 424 00:26:16,560 --> 00:26:19,472 Yes. In the tourism peak, 425 00:26:19,600 --> 00:26:24,276 we had around 900 tourists traveIIing up and down in one day, 426 00:26:24,400 --> 00:26:26,436 which is a very impressive amount, 427 00:26:26,560 --> 00:26:29,120 stiII achievabIe today during speciaI events, 428 00:26:29,240 --> 00:26:30,832 and of course good weather heIps. 429 00:26:30,960 --> 00:26:33,394 (MIchael) Now, I suppose on a cIear day, 430 00:26:33,520 --> 00:26:35,590 we'd be having a fabuIous view from here? 431 00:26:35,720 --> 00:26:39,474 (RIchard) Yes. At the summit, on a cIear day, you'II see the seven kingdoms, 432 00:26:39,600 --> 00:26:42,797 which is EngIand, IreIand, ScotIand, WaIes, the IsIe of Man, 433 00:26:42,920 --> 00:26:45,388 Kingdom of Heaven and the Kingdom of the Sea. 434 00:26:45,520 --> 00:26:50,548 Today, however, you're Iucky enough to see a fine exampIe of Manannan's cIoak, 435 00:26:50,680 --> 00:26:52,671 which is part of Manx foIkIore. 436 00:26:52,800 --> 00:26:54,597 Manannan, being the God of the isIand, 437 00:26:54,720 --> 00:27:00,238 uses his cIoak to hide the isIand from Viking invaders and attackers. 438 00:27:00,360 --> 00:27:03,670 So, as you can see, the isIand's getting shieIded niceIy. 439 00:27:10,760 --> 00:27:15,038 It seems that, today, the God Manannan fears InvasIon very much 440 00:27:15,160 --> 00:27:17,628 because the top of Snaefell Is wrapped In a cloud 441 00:27:17,760 --> 00:27:20,354 and deluged from the Kingdom of Heaven. 442 00:27:25,160 --> 00:27:30,917 The Victorians fIocked to the IsIe of Man for the thriII of venturing abroad. 443 00:27:31,040 --> 00:27:34,237 And indeed, they do things differentIy here. 444 00:27:34,360 --> 00:27:38,399 But those earIy tourists aIso found raiIways 445 00:27:38,520 --> 00:27:43,799 and exampIes of engineering exceIIence that were reminiscent of home. 446 00:27:43,920 --> 00:27:47,913 And they aIso encountered an indomitabIe spirit, 447 00:27:48,040 --> 00:27:52,318 which is characteristic of aII of us born in these isIands. 448 00:27:56,160 --> 00:28:00,756 On my nextjourney, my ''Bradshaw's'' Is leadIng me across the IrIsh Sea. 449 00:28:00,880 --> 00:28:02,836 StartIng In the RepublIc of Ireland, 450 00:28:02,960 --> 00:28:05,599 I'll travel on the Island's very fIrst tracks, 451 00:28:05,720 --> 00:28:09,156 then head up the east coast and on to Northern Ireland. 452 00:28:09,280 --> 00:28:10,838 Along the way, I'll be meetIng 453 00:28:10,960 --> 00:28:13,235 some unusual traIn passengers at DublIn Zoo... 454 00:28:13,360 --> 00:28:16,591 If I were a ticket coIIector and I came across a crocodiIe on the train, 455 00:28:16,720 --> 00:28:18,790 I wouIdn't seek to extract the fare, either. 456 00:28:18,920 --> 00:28:21,480 ..puttIng myseIf In a traIn drIver's shoes... 457 00:28:21,600 --> 00:28:23,397 (gasps) 458 00:28:23,520 --> 00:28:25,431 Oh, dear. I think we're aII dead. 459 00:28:25,560 --> 00:28:29,075 ..and takIng a whIte-knuckle tour of the stunnIng north-east coast. 460 00:28:29,200 --> 00:28:31,555 I read the Bradshaw's description of this bridge, 461 00:28:31,680 --> 00:28:34,240 but nothing prepared me for what it's reaIIy Iike.