0 00:00:05,120 --> 00:00:10,035 In 1 840, one man transformed travel In BrItaIn and Ireland. 1 00:00:11,000 --> 00:00:12,991 HIs name was George Bradshaw, 2 00:00:13,120 --> 00:00:17,511 and hIs raIlway guIdes InspIred the VIctorIans to take to the tracks. 3 00:00:18,320 --> 00:00:19,594 Stop by stop, 4 00:00:19,720 --> 00:00:21,551 he told them where to travel, 5 00:00:21,680 --> 00:00:23,910 what to see and where to stay. 6 00:00:24,720 --> 00:00:27,075 Now, 1 70 years later, 7 00:00:27,200 --> 00:00:31,671 I'm makIng a serIes ofjourneys across the length and breadth of these Islands 8 00:00:31,800 --> 00:00:34,678 to see what of Bradshaw's world remaIns. 9 00:00:55,360 --> 00:00:57,828 My trusty Bradshaw's GuIde has aIready Ied me 10 00:00:57,960 --> 00:01:01,430 on deIightfuI journeys throughout EngIand, ScotIand and WaIes. 11 00:01:01,560 --> 00:01:04,791 But now, for the first time, I've crossed the Irish sea, 12 00:01:04,920 --> 00:01:09,232 for when Bradshaw's DescrIptIve RaIlway Handbook of Great BrItaIn and Ireland 13 00:01:09,360 --> 00:01:14,229 was pubIished in the 1860s, Britain and IreIand were a singIe state. 14 00:01:14,360 --> 00:01:19,480 And now I'm set to expIore a whoIe new isIand of raiIway stories. 15 00:01:20,840 --> 00:01:24,116 On thIs leg, I'll be explorIng a darIng feat of engIneerIng, 16 00:01:24,240 --> 00:01:26,629 buIlt by the father of IrIsh raIlways... 17 00:01:27,520 --> 00:01:31,308 So now I see the first of these remarkabIe tunneIs ahead. 18 00:01:31,440 --> 00:01:33,715 We're going to pIunge straight through the rock. 19 00:01:34,760 --> 00:01:38,469 ..vIsItIng a VIctorIan prIson that played host to raIlway crImInals... 20 00:01:38,600 --> 00:01:41,353 There was a chiId here of nine years of age 21 00:01:41,480 --> 00:01:44,631 for pIaying marbIes on a train and annoying passengers. 22 00:01:44,760 --> 00:01:49,276 ..and hearIng how even anImals embraced traIn travel In the age of steam... 23 00:01:49,400 --> 00:01:53,029 The giraffe was far too taII in its cart to get under each bridge, 24 00:01:53,160 --> 00:01:56,675 so they created a padded sIiding roof and as it approached each bridge, 25 00:01:56,800 --> 00:01:58,472 the sIiding roof gentIy cIosed. 26 00:01:59,760 --> 00:02:03,878 ThIs long journey begIns near DublIn, where thIs Island's raIlways were born, 27 00:02:04,000 --> 00:02:06,309 then follows theIr expansIon northwards. 28 00:02:06,440 --> 00:02:10,991 CrossIng Into Northern Ireland, I'll explore BeIfast's IndustrIal herItage 29 00:02:11,120 --> 00:02:15,875 before experIencIng the stunnIng coast, fInIshIng up In Derry/Londonderry. 30 00:02:16,680 --> 00:02:18,671 ThIs stretch covers 1 7 mIles, 31 00:02:18,800 --> 00:02:22,679 passIng through the rocky outcrop of Bray Head on my way to DublIn 32 00:02:22,800 --> 00:02:26,031 where I'll explore raIlways that radIate from the cIty. 33 00:02:28,720 --> 00:02:31,109 I'm startIng on a breathtakIng lIne 34 00:02:31,240 --> 00:02:34,596 that skIrts the east coast between WIcklow and DublIn. 35 00:02:35,960 --> 00:02:39,236 I'm Iooking forward to seeing both the RepubIic and Northern IreIand 36 00:02:39,360 --> 00:02:42,432 through the eyes of a 19th-century traveI writer. 37 00:02:42,560 --> 00:02:45,836 My Bradshaw's is enthusiastic about the Iandscape, 38 00:02:45,960 --> 00:02:48,235 saying that ''particuIarIy on the sea coast, 39 00:02:48,360 --> 00:02:51,352 it assumes a spIendid variety of scenery, 40 00:02:51,480 --> 00:02:54,552 not to be surpassed in any part of the isIand''. 41 00:02:54,680 --> 00:02:58,832 ''The mountains and rocky eIevations are here magnificentIy boId 42 00:02:58,960 --> 00:03:03,033 and Bray Head itseIf commands an extensive view.'' 43 00:03:03,160 --> 00:03:07,597 But this dramatic topography presented a formidabIe chaIIenge 44 00:03:07,720 --> 00:03:09,358 to the raiIway buiIder. 45 00:03:11,840 --> 00:03:15,435 ThIs lIne was buIlt to connect DublIn wIth the ports on the east coast, 46 00:03:15,560 --> 00:03:19,792 but the proposed route meant traversIng the rocky headland of Bray Head, 47 00:03:19,920 --> 00:03:21,239 near the WIcklow mountaIns. 48 00:03:22,280 --> 00:03:25,636 I'm leavIng the traIn at Greystones StatIon to take a closer look. 49 00:03:29,440 --> 00:03:32,955 I've come to discover more about this beautifuI stretch of raiIway 50 00:03:33,080 --> 00:03:35,116 passing through this infamous terrain, 51 00:03:35,240 --> 00:03:38,869 and the remarkabIe engineer who achieved it. 52 00:03:39,000 --> 00:03:42,879 The best place to get to grIps wIth the sheer scale of the challenge 53 00:03:43,000 --> 00:03:46,356 Is up on the paths that clIng to Bray Head's clIffs. 54 00:03:47,400 --> 00:03:51,029 It's where I'm meetIng raIlway hIstorIan BrIan Mac Aonghusa. 55 00:03:51,800 --> 00:03:54,439 - HeIIo, Brian. - HeIIo, MichaeI, good morning. 56 00:03:54,560 --> 00:03:57,597 This must be one of the most spectacuIar pieces of raiIway Iine 57 00:03:57,720 --> 00:03:58,630 that I can think of. 58 00:03:58,760 --> 00:04:01,035 I think it is in IreIand. We're very proud of it 59 00:04:01,160 --> 00:04:04,232 because a Iot of work went into the buiIding of this. 60 00:04:04,360 --> 00:04:09,593 This hiII, caIIed Bray Head, contains Pre-Cambrian rock 61 00:04:09,720 --> 00:04:12,871 and it's one of the hardest rocks to driII through. 62 00:04:13,000 --> 00:04:15,036 And the man who succeeded in doing it 63 00:04:15,160 --> 00:04:17,799 was a very famous buiIder of Irish raiIways. 64 00:04:17,920 --> 00:04:21,879 He's known as the father of Irish raiIways, WiIIiam Dargan. 65 00:04:23,920 --> 00:04:27,037 WIllIam Dargan was a seIf-taught entrepreneur and engIneer 66 00:04:27,160 --> 00:04:30,948 who constructed more raIlway lInes In 19th-century Ireland 67 00:04:31,080 --> 00:04:32,718 than any other buIlder. 68 00:04:32,840 --> 00:04:36,196 But he wasn't Involved wIth the Bray Head project at Its outset. 69 00:04:37,920 --> 00:04:41,356 When the lIne was fIrst proposed, It was the EnglIsh engIneer 70 00:04:41,480 --> 00:04:45,109 Isambard Kingdom Brunel who took up the gauntlet. 71 00:04:46,160 --> 00:04:50,199 It was designed by BruneI, and BruneI started it in 1847, 72 00:04:50,320 --> 00:04:54,154 but the company couId not raise sufficient capitaI after the famine. 73 00:04:54,280 --> 00:04:59,308 And there was great difficuIty in organising men, organising the works. 74 00:04:59,440 --> 00:05:05,197 The Great FamIne began wIth the faIlure of the potato harvest In the mId-1 840s, 75 00:05:05,320 --> 00:05:09,757 and became so severe that almost an eIghth of the populatIon perIshed. 76 00:05:10,800 --> 00:05:13,951 MakIng only short vIsIts from England to supervIse the works, 77 00:05:14,080 --> 00:05:16,275 and remote from the harsh local realItIes, 78 00:05:16,400 --> 00:05:19,233 Brunel and hIs contractor ran Into trouble. 79 00:05:19,360 --> 00:05:22,033 By 1 848, work had stopped. 80 00:05:22,160 --> 00:05:26,199 But luckIly, Ireland's home-grown raIlway pIoneer, WIllIam Dargan, 81 00:05:26,320 --> 00:05:27,992 stepped Into the breach. 82 00:05:29,040 --> 00:05:33,431 (BrIan) Dargan had achieved great notoriety for his achievements 83 00:05:33,560 --> 00:05:36,028 in buiIding raiIways aII over IreIand by that time. 84 00:05:36,160 --> 00:05:39,869 In the interests of the deveIopment of IreIand, the deveIopment of the peopIe, 85 00:05:40,000 --> 00:05:42,309 he said he wouId do it ithout accepting cash. 86 00:05:42,440 --> 00:05:45,796 He agreed to accept shares or bonds in the company 87 00:05:45,920 --> 00:05:49,959 rather than be paid for the work. Most unusuaI for such an astute person. 88 00:05:50,080 --> 00:05:53,789 WIllIam Dargan was horrIfIed by the mIsery wrought by the famIne. 89 00:05:53,920 --> 00:05:56,229 He encouraged raIlway buIldIng, 90 00:05:56,360 --> 00:05:59,955 belIevIng that progress offered Ireland the chance of better tImes. 91 00:06:00,080 --> 00:06:04,153 He recruited the men he wanted and if they were undernourished, 92 00:06:04,280 --> 00:06:06,840 he wouId pay them one week's wages in advance 93 00:06:06,960 --> 00:06:10,919 and teII them to come back working when they had buiIt up their strength. 94 00:06:11,040 --> 00:06:13,554 Now, this went down extremeIy weII ith peopIe. 95 00:06:13,680 --> 00:06:17,434 They admired him for that and aIso, if peopIe were in distress, 96 00:06:17,560 --> 00:06:19,835 he was incIined to heIp them ith a IittIe cash. 97 00:06:19,960 --> 00:06:23,236 And he became known as ''the man ith his hand in his pocket.'' 98 00:06:23,360 --> 00:06:27,558 At Bray Head, Dargan contInued to work closely wIth Brunel, 99 00:06:27,680 --> 00:06:30,672 and by the mId 1 850s had fInIshed thejob. 100 00:06:30,800 --> 00:06:34,110 It took 500 men to tunnel through the Pre-CambrIan rock. 101 00:06:34,240 --> 00:06:35,992 But lookIng at the project today, 102 00:06:36,120 --> 00:06:38,839 one of the tunnels appears to be dIsused. 103 00:06:38,960 --> 00:06:41,269 (BrIan) That was the originaI tunneI. 104 00:06:41,400 --> 00:06:44,915 The originaI tunneI, which was when the Iine was first buiIt by Dargan, 105 00:06:45,040 --> 00:06:46,917 aIong this stretch of coast. 106 00:06:47,040 --> 00:06:50,828 And he buiIt that tunneI as weII as five others between here and Greystones. 107 00:06:50,960 --> 00:06:52,632 And why are they disused now, then? 108 00:06:52,760 --> 00:06:55,194 Because the Iine had to be moved inIand 109 00:06:55,320 --> 00:06:59,677 because of erosion and the coIIapse of originaI wooden bridges 110 00:06:59,800 --> 00:07:02,439 which traversed the gorges here. 111 00:07:02,560 --> 00:07:05,597 But after about 60 years, it had to be abandoned 112 00:07:05,720 --> 00:07:08,917 and a new Iine had to be bored, as you can see from the other tunneI. 113 00:07:09,960 --> 00:07:12,520 The lIne has sInce become known as Brunel's Folly 114 00:07:12,640 --> 00:07:15,279 and It's certaInly had Its faIr share of problems. 115 00:07:17,400 --> 00:07:20,233 These days, hIgh-tech equIpment guards agaInst rock falls 116 00:07:20,360 --> 00:07:24,194 and clIff defences have been buIlt to prevent erosIon. 117 00:07:24,320 --> 00:07:26,470 DespIte all the expense and effort Involved, 118 00:07:26,600 --> 00:07:29,592 I'm very glad that the lIne stIll follows the same course, 119 00:07:29,720 --> 00:07:32,359 provIdIng passengers wIth a magnIfIcent vIew, 120 00:07:32,480 --> 00:07:35,836 whIch I'm about to see from a fresh perspectIve. 121 00:07:35,960 --> 00:07:38,872 Now, what I have here is one of my favourite things in the worId. 122 00:07:39,000 --> 00:07:43,232 This is a cab pass. This entitIes me to ride ith the driver. 123 00:07:43,360 --> 00:07:45,794 As Iong as I don't disturb him too much, of course. 124 00:07:49,360 --> 00:07:52,432 ThIs Is one of the IntercIty traIns that ply thIs lIne, 125 00:07:52,560 --> 00:07:54,949 and It's whIskIng me towards DublIn. 126 00:07:55,880 --> 00:08:00,032 It's a very, very smooth ride. You're aIIowed to go how fast aIong here? 127 00:08:00,160 --> 00:08:02,037 - 60 miIes an hour. - 60 miIes an hour? 128 00:08:02,160 --> 00:08:05,436 So even though it's an ancient bit of track, 129 00:08:05,560 --> 00:08:09,030 through very chaIIenging geography and battered by storms, 130 00:08:09,160 --> 00:08:12,391 - you can stiII go at a good speed. - (drIver) We're aIIowed 60 up to here 131 00:08:12,520 --> 00:08:15,193 and once we enter the first tunneI, it's 40 miIes an hour. 132 00:08:18,760 --> 00:08:22,673 So now I see the first of these remarkabIe tunneIs ahead. 133 00:08:22,800 --> 00:08:26,429 We're going to pIunge straight through this head of Iand. 134 00:08:26,560 --> 00:08:28,357 Straight through the rock. 135 00:08:28,480 --> 00:08:31,040 Any idea how Iong this tunneI is, Robbie? 136 00:08:31,160 --> 00:08:32,957 It's about three-quarters of a miIe. 137 00:08:33,080 --> 00:08:36,231 Three-quarters of a miIe, the first one. Dropping your speed down. 138 00:08:37,760 --> 00:08:41,799 PassIng through In one of these modern traIns takesjust a few seconds, 139 00:08:41,920 --> 00:08:45,230 but dIggIng out thIs rock wIth the most rudImentary equIpment 140 00:08:45,360 --> 00:08:47,271 must have been an epIc task. 141 00:08:48,960 --> 00:08:52,236 So this brief moment of dayIight between one tunneI and the next, 142 00:08:52,360 --> 00:08:55,158 this is what I was Iooking down on before 143 00:08:55,280 --> 00:08:59,592 when I was up there on Bray Head. And back into the tunneI we go! 144 00:09:00,640 --> 00:09:01,914 (horn beeps) 145 00:09:06,960 --> 00:09:09,190 What the passenger sees on this raiIway 146 00:09:09,320 --> 00:09:13,154 is the most stunningIy beautifuI view of mountain and of sea. 147 00:09:14,200 --> 00:09:17,158 And what I think of is the fantastic engineering achievement 148 00:09:17,280 --> 00:09:21,831 and how this formidabIe topography had to be dominated 149 00:09:21,960 --> 00:09:23,712 to buiId this raiIway Iine. 150 00:09:34,200 --> 00:09:37,715 I'm now takIng a back seat agaIn to contInue my journey. 151 00:09:41,880 --> 00:09:44,997 My beautifuI intercity train is now entering DubIin 152 00:09:45,120 --> 00:09:48,032 and my Bradshaw's teIIs me that it's the capitaI of IreIand 153 00:09:48,160 --> 00:09:51,948 and the second city of the British isIands, on the River Liffey. 154 00:09:52,080 --> 00:09:53,752 And DubIin Bay, he says, 155 00:09:53,880 --> 00:09:57,634 ''unfoIds one of the finest Iand and sea prospects ever beheId''. 156 00:09:57,760 --> 00:10:01,514 ''Rendered extremeIy picturesque by the bays and creeks 157 00:10:01,640 --> 00:10:03,198 into which it is broken.'' 158 00:10:03,320 --> 00:10:06,437 My chief interest in DubIin is as the origin, 159 00:10:06,560 --> 00:10:09,711 the birthpIace, of the raiIways in IreIand. 160 00:10:11,760 --> 00:10:16,151 My traIn termInates at one of the cIty's fIne VIctorIan statIons. 161 00:10:22,160 --> 00:10:25,630 ConnoIIy Station in DubIin. I've been Iooking forward to seeing this 162 00:10:25,760 --> 00:10:28,479 because I'm toId that it's a thing of beauty. 163 00:10:30,840 --> 00:10:33,638 The maIn statIon opened In 1 846 164 00:10:33,760 --> 00:10:37,833 and Is an ImposIng ItalIanate buIldIng In whIte granIte. 165 00:10:37,960 --> 00:10:41,191 As the raIlway network rapIdly expanded, more capacIty was needed 166 00:10:41,320 --> 00:10:45,518 and thIs magnIfIcent extensIon was added In 1 876. 167 00:10:47,560 --> 00:10:51,633 And here it is, a gIorious structure ith beautifuI arches 168 00:10:51,760 --> 00:10:55,878 in iron and in brick, and this impressive roof of gIass. 169 00:10:56,000 --> 00:10:58,719 A station worthy of a capitaI city. 170 00:11:02,360 --> 00:11:06,672 I'm now explorIng DublIn wIth the help of my 19th-century guIde. 171 00:11:06,800 --> 00:11:07,755 It tells me, 172 00:11:07,880 --> 00:11:11,270 ''The appearance of DublIn Is very much Improved of late years. '' 173 00:11:11,400 --> 00:11:15,154 ''Streets have been wIdened, new squares skIIfully laId out 174 00:11:15,280 --> 00:11:18,238 and many publIc monuments freed from buIldIngs 175 00:11:18,360 --> 00:11:20,237 whIch concealed theIr beautIes. '' 176 00:11:21,600 --> 00:11:24,910 But amId that apparent prosperIty there was also deprIvatIon. 177 00:11:25,960 --> 00:11:29,635 Huge numbers of people arrIved In the cIty fleeIng the famIne, 178 00:11:29,760 --> 00:11:32,638 and levels of poverty were among the worst In Europe. 179 00:11:33,520 --> 00:11:37,593 My ''Bradshaw's GuIde'' holds a clue to the socIal problems that ensued. 180 00:11:40,400 --> 00:11:43,631 I'm often surprised by the pIaces that Bradshaw's mentions 181 00:11:43,760 --> 00:11:45,955 as being of possibIe interest to the tourist. 182 00:11:46,080 --> 00:11:50,676 Here in DubIin, of course, it mentions bridges and churches 183 00:11:50,800 --> 00:11:54,918 and fine pubIic buiIdings, but aIso KiImainham GaoI. 184 00:11:55,800 --> 00:11:59,554 CrIme and punIshment were much debated In 19th-century socIety, 185 00:11:59,680 --> 00:12:03,229 and when my guIdebook was publIshed, thIs prIson had just been transformed 186 00:12:03,360 --> 00:12:06,989 to brIng It Into lIne wIth VIctorIan penal phIlosophy. 187 00:12:07,120 --> 00:12:10,635 I'm takIng a tour wIth expert NIall BergIn. 188 00:12:10,760 --> 00:12:12,113 - MichaeI. - Good to see you. 189 00:12:12,240 --> 00:12:13,559 WeIcome to KiImainham GaoI. 190 00:12:13,680 --> 00:12:15,830 A kind of chiIIing pIace I find it, actuaIIy. 191 00:12:15,960 --> 00:12:18,554 - A very impressive space. - What's the history? 192 00:12:18,680 --> 00:12:21,035 The jaiI dates back to 1 796, 193 00:12:21,160 --> 00:12:23,628 when it opened as the new county jaiI for DubIin, 194 00:12:23,760 --> 00:12:27,036 and it cIosed in 1924. There's an incredibIe history here. 195 00:12:27,160 --> 00:12:30,232 InterestingIy, as the buiIding stands today, just two ings, 196 00:12:30,360 --> 00:12:33,830 the west ing and the east ing, which we are in at the moment, 197 00:12:33,960 --> 00:12:35,439 which is a Iate addition. 198 00:12:35,560 --> 00:12:39,758 It's cIassic Victorian and it dates to 1861-62 period. 199 00:12:41,040 --> 00:12:44,715 As cItIes rapIdly expanded In the 19th century, crIme soared. 200 00:12:44,840 --> 00:12:48,196 But modern thInkers regarded punIshments lIke transportatIon 201 00:12:48,320 --> 00:12:51,437 and executIon, except for murder, as barbarIc. 202 00:12:51,560 --> 00:12:54,358 The answer, to expand the number of prIsons. 203 00:12:54,480 --> 00:13:00,237 And between 1 842 and 1 877, 90 were buIlt or extended. 204 00:13:00,360 --> 00:13:02,476 Why did the Victorians buiId it in this shape? 205 00:13:02,600 --> 00:13:05,194 This is the cIassic panoptic design. 206 00:13:05,320 --> 00:13:08,630 It is an aII-seeing eye and it comes from the Greek ''panopticon''. 207 00:13:08,760 --> 00:13:12,878 When the prison staff were here, they couId virtuaIIy see aII the ceIIs. 208 00:13:13,000 --> 00:13:15,719 It is aII about obseRVation and suRVeiIIance. 209 00:13:15,840 --> 00:13:19,230 AIso the Victorians were great beIievers in the heaIing power of Iight 210 00:13:19,360 --> 00:13:21,828 and aII the Victorian prisons, be it in London, 211 00:13:21,960 --> 00:13:25,236 in Britain or be it in IreIand, aII have massive canopy skyIights. 212 00:13:25,360 --> 00:13:27,430 They contradict themseIves in a sense, 213 00:13:27,560 --> 00:13:29,869 as punishment was aII about denying them Iight 214 00:13:30,000 --> 00:13:33,470 and aII the punishment ceIIs are right beIow us. 215 00:13:33,600 --> 00:13:35,909 What sort of crimes were peopIe here for? 216 00:13:36,040 --> 00:13:39,919 I have found a number of instances of raiIway-connected crime, 217 00:13:40,040 --> 00:13:42,235 so things Iike not paying their fare 218 00:13:42,360 --> 00:13:44,715 or traveIIing on a train ithout proper tickets. 219 00:13:44,840 --> 00:13:47,991 There is a briIIiant incident of a gentIeman traveIIing on a buffer 220 00:13:48,120 --> 00:13:51,237 and he got two weeks' imprisonment for his crime. 221 00:13:51,360 --> 00:13:54,033 There was a chiId here of nine years of age 222 00:13:54,160 --> 00:13:57,709 for pIaying marbIes on a train and annoying passengers. 223 00:13:57,840 --> 00:13:59,159 ReaIIy interesting stuff. 224 00:13:59,280 --> 00:14:03,637 The VIctorIan east wIng provIded thejaIl wIth an addItIonal 96 cells 225 00:14:03,760 --> 00:14:05,796 of nIne foot by sIx foot each. 226 00:14:06,640 --> 00:14:10,519 VIsItIng today, I am tryIng to ImagIne what lIfe was lIke for the prIsoners. 227 00:14:10,640 --> 00:14:13,108 So here we come across an open Victorian ceII. 228 00:14:13,240 --> 00:14:15,390 How many prisoners were meant to be in here? 229 00:14:15,520 --> 00:14:20,036 AII ceIIs are for one person, but very rareIy did that happen. 230 00:14:20,160 --> 00:14:24,039 There are records of up to two, three, four peopIe per room. 231 00:14:24,160 --> 00:14:27,869 PrIsoners could have spent up to 22 hours a day In these cells 232 00:14:28,000 --> 00:14:29,592 wIthout runnIng water or toIlets, 233 00:14:29,720 --> 00:14:33,030 leavIng only for exercIse or hard labour. 234 00:14:33,160 --> 00:14:36,789 This actuaIIy is a photograph of a typicaI ceII. 235 00:14:36,920 --> 00:14:40,230 You can see the bed, sort of Iike a wooden board ith a mattress, 236 00:14:40,360 --> 00:14:42,635 but during the day it was pIaced against a waII, 237 00:14:42,760 --> 00:14:45,115 just for more room for the prisoner to move around. 238 00:14:45,240 --> 00:14:49,392 AIso the ruIes and reguIations for the prison are here, Iisted. 239 00:14:49,520 --> 00:14:53,308 You can see the vents to Iet air in. TabIe and chair. Very basic. 240 00:14:53,440 --> 00:14:55,271 A chamber pot. Very, very basic. 241 00:14:55,400 --> 00:14:57,960 AIso the indows are very highIy pIaced 242 00:14:58,080 --> 00:15:00,435 so the prisoners are Iooking up towards heaven. 243 00:15:00,560 --> 00:15:02,198 The thing of redemption again. 244 00:15:02,320 --> 00:15:06,472 It's a fascInatIng InsIght Into VIctorIan penal practIce. 245 00:15:06,600 --> 00:15:08,511 But KilmaInham Gaol Is remembered today 246 00:15:08,640 --> 00:15:12,394 for Its role In the story of IrIsh natIonalIsm. 247 00:15:12,520 --> 00:15:14,988 Rebels agaInst BrItIsh rule were ImprIsoned here 248 00:15:15,120 --> 00:15:16,997 throughout thejaIl's lIfe. 249 00:15:17,120 --> 00:15:21,716 But It was a 20th-century event that secured Its place In IrIsh hIstory. 250 00:15:22,560 --> 00:15:23,993 This yard, this space, 251 00:15:24,120 --> 00:15:28,272 this is the scene where the Ieaders of the 1916 uprising were executed. 252 00:15:28,400 --> 00:15:32,234 So this is the Easter Rising, this is where there's a huge rebeIIion, 253 00:15:32,360 --> 00:15:34,669 they seized many government buiIdings. 254 00:15:34,800 --> 00:15:40,318 ObviousIy the rebeIIion faiIed and that faiIure Ied to the executions of 1 4... 255 00:15:40,440 --> 00:15:42,192 WeII, actuaIIy, 16 men were executed, 256 00:15:42,320 --> 00:15:45,357 but 1 4 in KiImainham GaoI by firing squad. 257 00:15:45,480 --> 00:15:49,678 As you Iook around the yard, you see the crosses at either end 258 00:15:49,800 --> 00:15:53,918 and the crosses are marking the spots where the men were shot. 259 00:15:54,040 --> 00:15:59,956 DurIng the rIsIng, some 600 rebels held DublIn cIty centre for sIx days. 260 00:16:00,080 --> 00:16:04,232 Around 450 people were kIlled, many of them cIvIlIans. 261 00:16:04,360 --> 00:16:07,796 At fIrst, publIc opInIon was largely hostIle to the rebels. 262 00:16:07,920 --> 00:16:12,391 But the crackdown that followed created sympathy for the RepublIcan cause. 263 00:16:12,520 --> 00:16:15,512 These days the Easter RIsIng Is seen as a turnIng poInt 264 00:16:15,640 --> 00:16:18,916 In the hIstory of IrIsh natIonalIsm. 265 00:16:19,040 --> 00:16:22,077 KiImainham is one of the busiest heritage sites in IreIand today 266 00:16:22,200 --> 00:16:25,351 and if we were to ask even the visitors coming through today, 267 00:16:25,480 --> 00:16:27,550 ''Why are you here? What do you want to know?.'' 268 00:16:27,680 --> 00:16:30,114 They want to Iearn the poIiticaI history of IreIand 269 00:16:30,240 --> 00:16:33,038 and see the spot where these men were executed. 270 00:16:36,520 --> 00:16:38,351 Now It's back to Connolly StatIon, 271 00:16:38,480 --> 00:16:40,550 because I'm In search of a bed for the nIght 272 00:16:40,680 --> 00:16:43,240 and I've a rather specIal hotel In mInd. 273 00:16:43,360 --> 00:16:45,032 It'sjust outsIde DublIn, 274 00:16:45,160 --> 00:16:47,958 In the coastal resort of Dun LoaghaIre or Dunleary. 275 00:16:48,080 --> 00:16:52,756 And to get there I am takIng a servIce known to DublIners as the Dart. 276 00:16:58,760 --> 00:17:01,433 On my traveIs I've often found that the earIiest raiIways 277 00:17:01,560 --> 00:17:03,630 were buiIt for freight, not for passengers, 278 00:17:03,760 --> 00:17:06,035 but that's not true of this particuIar Iine. 279 00:17:06,160 --> 00:17:10,836 I'm traveIIing aIong tracks that were Iaid in 1834 by WiIIiam Dargan 280 00:17:10,960 --> 00:17:12,632 specificaIIy for commuters. 281 00:17:12,760 --> 00:17:16,435 In fact, the Irish cIaim that it's the worId's oIdest commuter raiIway. 282 00:17:16,560 --> 00:17:19,996 It's stiII doing the same job today as it was in the 1830s, 283 00:17:20,120 --> 00:17:24,079 and today it is part of the DubIin Area Rapid Transit. 284 00:17:24,200 --> 00:17:28,876 To my excItement, thIs was also 19th-century Ireland's fIrst raIlway. 285 00:17:29,000 --> 00:17:31,434 The route was chosen because a smart new harbour 286 00:17:31,560 --> 00:17:35,553 had been buIlt at Dunleary, makIng It a fashIonable place to lIve. 287 00:17:35,680 --> 00:17:38,752 Wealthy DublIn busInessmen soon embraced the commute, 288 00:17:38,880 --> 00:17:42,555 whIch thousands of people stIll make each day. 289 00:17:42,680 --> 00:17:45,433 How are you? Have you heard of WiIIiam Dargan? 290 00:17:45,560 --> 00:17:46,834 Yes, I have. 291 00:17:46,960 --> 00:17:49,633 - Who was he? - I don't know, but I've heard the name. 292 00:17:49,760 --> 00:17:52,149 He was the engineer who buiIt this raiIway Iine. 293 00:17:52,280 --> 00:17:54,953 Look how beautifuI it is here. Isn't that fantastic? 294 00:17:55,080 --> 00:17:58,629 - Have you been on this raiIway before? - No, I've never been on this raiIway. 295 00:17:58,760 --> 00:18:00,478 Is it mentioned in your trusty guide? 296 00:18:00,600 --> 00:18:02,830 AbsoIuteIy, it's mentioned in my trusty guide. 297 00:18:02,960 --> 00:18:06,635 But this is supposedIy the first commuter raiIway in the worId, 298 00:18:06,760 --> 00:18:09,320 - opened in 1834. - (woman) ReaIIy? 299 00:18:09,440 --> 00:18:12,637 Five thousand passengers on the first day. Isn't that a thought? 300 00:18:12,760 --> 00:18:15,035 - I hope you have a wonderfuI time. - Thank you. 301 00:18:15,160 --> 00:18:17,276 - Bye-bye. - Enjoy your trip. 302 00:18:26,560 --> 00:18:27,834 So, DunIeary. 303 00:18:27,960 --> 00:18:30,838 The Iast thing I saw from the train as I came into the station 304 00:18:30,960 --> 00:18:34,396 was the harbour. We're right by the waterside, a beautifuI spot. 305 00:18:37,160 --> 00:18:40,311 LuckIly for me, Dunleary's 19th-century gentrIfIcatIon 306 00:18:40,440 --> 00:18:43,716 Included the buIldIng of a luxurIous new hotel. 307 00:18:45,040 --> 00:18:47,838 On the first day of my Irish raiIway journey I've deveIoped 308 00:18:47,960 --> 00:18:50,235 an intense admiration for WiIIiam Dargan. 309 00:18:50,360 --> 00:18:52,237 He wasn't just a raiIway engineer. 310 00:18:52,360 --> 00:18:54,828 He was aIso in the business of suppIying hoteIs. 311 00:18:54,960 --> 00:18:57,235 And so for my first night in the RepubIic, 312 00:18:57,360 --> 00:19:00,238 I've decided to stay in one of his finest. 313 00:19:01,280 --> 00:19:05,558 The Royal MarIne Hotel, buIlt between 1 863 and 1 865, 314 00:19:05,680 --> 00:19:08,592 even played host to Queen VIctorIa herseIf. 315 00:19:08,720 --> 00:19:12,952 A fIttIng spot for me and my ''Bradshaw's GuIde'' to pass the nIght. 316 00:19:20,560 --> 00:19:23,233 Day two of my journey and It's back on the Dart for me 317 00:19:23,360 --> 00:19:26,272 to take a fuller look at the IrIsh capItal. 318 00:19:27,400 --> 00:19:31,029 From DunIeary I'm headed once more to the heart of DubIin, 319 00:19:31,160 --> 00:19:34,994 a city of which I have many memories and of which I'm very fond. 320 00:19:35,120 --> 00:19:37,634 I shaII be expIoring it today using my Bradshaw's 321 00:19:37,760 --> 00:19:39,113 and the tips that it gives me, 322 00:19:39,240 --> 00:19:43,358 starting ith this handy map of the city from the mid-1860s. 323 00:19:44,840 --> 00:19:47,195 It's wonderful to have my VIctorIan map, 324 00:19:47,320 --> 00:19:50,756 but when It comes to DublIn, It's of lImIted use. 325 00:19:50,880 --> 00:19:53,519 Although the layout of the cIty hasn't changed too much, 326 00:19:53,640 --> 00:19:58,475 many of the street names have, reflectIng Ireland's turbulent hIstory. 327 00:19:59,440 --> 00:20:04,468 Bradshaw's greatIy admired what was SackviIIe Street, ith its monument, 328 00:20:04,600 --> 00:20:10,118 spIendid hoteIs and the coIumn erected in honour of Horatio NeIson. 329 00:20:10,240 --> 00:20:12,390 But in this buiIding here, the Post Office, 330 00:20:12,520 --> 00:20:16,433 the Easter Rising of 1916 reached its cIimax. 331 00:20:16,560 --> 00:20:19,950 The coIumn of NeIson was bIown up in 1966 332 00:20:20,080 --> 00:20:23,117 and a spire erected in its pIace. 333 00:20:23,240 --> 00:20:25,470 And this is now O'ConneII Street, 334 00:20:25,600 --> 00:20:29,639 so whiIst the generous proportions of this bouIevard have not aItered, 335 00:20:29,760 --> 00:20:33,070 the names commemorated here have changed compIeteIy. 336 00:20:35,640 --> 00:20:38,677 The spire's officiaI name is the Monument of Light. 337 00:20:38,800 --> 00:20:43,749 Made of stainIess steeI, it reaches 120 metres into the sky. 338 00:20:46,720 --> 00:20:49,029 - May I ask, are you from DubIin? - I'm from Cork. 339 00:20:49,160 --> 00:20:51,754 - Are you visiting today? - No, I Iive here now. 340 00:20:51,880 --> 00:20:56,032 - This spire, what do you think of that? - Opinion is divided about this. 341 00:20:56,160 --> 00:20:58,628 Some peopIe feeI it wasn't the best use of resources, 342 00:20:58,760 --> 00:21:01,069 but it's actuaIIy astonishing to Iook at. 343 00:21:01,200 --> 00:21:05,113 There's no doubt it has a magnetic puII about it. It's beautifuI. 344 00:21:05,240 --> 00:21:09,472 - You might be one of its fans, I think. - I wouIdn't go that far exactIy. 345 00:21:09,600 --> 00:21:11,909 But, yes, it is nice to Iook at. 346 00:21:13,960 --> 00:21:16,349 To reach my last stop on thIs leg of thejourney, 347 00:21:16,480 --> 00:21:19,040 I'm usIng another feature of modern DublIn, the tram. 348 00:21:20,160 --> 00:21:22,037 (machIne) Please select a tIcket type. 349 00:21:22,160 --> 00:21:25,755 (MIchael) The Luas lIght raIl system opened In 2004 350 00:21:25,880 --> 00:21:29,031 and carrIes 80,000 passengers per day around the cIty. 351 00:21:29,160 --> 00:21:32,630 I do Iove trams, they add such personaIity to cities. 352 00:21:32,760 --> 00:21:35,718 I'm so sorry that so many British cities have Iost theirs. 353 00:21:35,840 --> 00:21:38,434 But pIeased too that some of them have got them back. 354 00:21:38,560 --> 00:21:41,313 These ones in DubIin are reaIIy smart and new. 355 00:21:44,040 --> 00:21:48,397 DublIn got Its fIrst tramway In the 1 870s, InItIally horse-drawn, 356 00:21:48,520 --> 00:21:51,034 but later usIng electrIcal power. 357 00:21:51,160 --> 00:21:53,833 That orIgInal system was phased out In the 1940s 358 00:21:53,960 --> 00:21:57,350 and now the cIty Is proud of Its new network. 359 00:21:58,320 --> 00:22:02,029 HeIIo. It's my first time on the tram. 360 00:22:02,160 --> 00:22:05,357 - Do you use it much yourseIf? - OnIy when I'm visiting my sister. 361 00:22:05,480 --> 00:22:09,996 Don't you think there's something more romantic about a tram than a bus? 362 00:22:10,120 --> 00:22:14,716 WeII... it's very modern. Not Iike the oId trams. 363 00:22:14,840 --> 00:22:16,796 (woman 2) They were good, weren't they? 364 00:22:16,920 --> 00:22:19,559 You preferred the oId trams to these IoveIy modern ones? 365 00:22:19,680 --> 00:22:24,196 - Why wouId you do that? - WeII, I'm oId-fashioned. 366 00:22:24,320 --> 00:22:27,073 (MIchael) TeII me about the oId ones. What were the sounds? 367 00:22:27,200 --> 00:22:29,919 - Did it have a beII? - Yes, a good ''bing!'' 368 00:22:32,360 --> 00:22:37,480 I've left the tram at Heuston StatIon, buIlt In 1 846 and recently restored. 369 00:22:39,880 --> 00:22:42,030 It's one of three maIn lIne statIons In DublIn, 370 00:22:42,160 --> 00:22:44,833 whIch In Bradshaw's day became the transport hub 371 00:22:44,960 --> 00:22:46,439 for the whole of Ireland. 372 00:22:47,920 --> 00:22:51,151 Soon the traIns were brIngIng vIsItors to a famous park 373 00:22:51,280 --> 00:22:54,511 for a new and educatIonal experIence. 374 00:22:55,560 --> 00:22:58,632 My Bradshaw's teIIs me that DubIin's famous Phoenix Park 375 00:22:58,760 --> 00:23:03,834 ''is seven miIes around and contains barracks and zooIogicaI gardens''. 376 00:23:03,960 --> 00:23:07,873 Today, DublIn Zoo Is one of the cIty's most popular attractIons. 377 00:23:08,000 --> 00:23:11,549 And In the early days, the raIlways helped to get It started. 378 00:23:11,680 --> 00:23:15,593 I'm meetIng zoo archIvIst CatherIne de Courcy to hear the story. 379 00:23:15,720 --> 00:23:18,359 I beIieve DubIin Zoo dates aII the way back to 1831 . 380 00:23:18,480 --> 00:23:21,517 Was DubIin in the vanguard of zooIogicaI gardens? 381 00:23:21,640 --> 00:23:27,317 It was. London Zoo was opened in 1828 and was the first purpose-buiIt zoo, 382 00:23:27,440 --> 00:23:30,193 and a Iot of the modern zoos were modeIIed on London Zoo. 383 00:23:30,320 --> 00:23:33,995 The DubIin peopIe, in 1830, founded a society specificaIIy 384 00:23:34,120 --> 00:23:37,078 to create a zoo Iike London Zoo in DubIin. 385 00:23:37,200 --> 00:23:41,079 These early zoos weren't for entertaInment, but for serIous study. 386 00:23:41,200 --> 00:23:44,112 The VIctorIans were fascInated by the natural world 387 00:23:44,240 --> 00:23:46,515 and seeIng exotIc anImals In the flesh 388 00:23:46,640 --> 00:23:49,313 was superIor to readIng about them In books. 389 00:23:49,440 --> 00:23:52,750 London Zoo was happy to spread the movement to DublIn 390 00:23:52,880 --> 00:23:56,236 and sent a batch of anImals to help the new zoo on Its way. 391 00:23:56,360 --> 00:23:58,794 When we taIk about animaIs being sent to DubIin Zoo, 392 00:23:58,920 --> 00:24:01,832 I've never thought about it, but how did they make the journey? 393 00:24:01,960 --> 00:24:03,996 They arrived in a variety of different ways. 394 00:24:04,120 --> 00:24:06,759 Many of the more exotic animaIs through the 19th century 395 00:24:06,880 --> 00:24:09,394 wouId have arrived by ship, directIy from LiverpooI. 396 00:24:09,520 --> 00:24:13,308 A Iot of animaIs sent from peopIe IreIand came by train to DubIin. 397 00:24:13,440 --> 00:24:18,560 And they often traveIIed free of charge in the care of the train staff. 398 00:24:18,680 --> 00:24:23,834 For exampIe, in the 1880s, a Reverend Brett sent us a crocodiIe from Wexford 399 00:24:23,960 --> 00:24:27,509 and somebody sent us a macaque monkey from SIigo. 400 00:24:27,640 --> 00:24:30,791 (MIchael) If I were a ticket coIIector and came across a crocodiIe, 401 00:24:30,920 --> 00:24:33,354 I probabIy wouIdn't seek to extract the fare. 402 00:24:33,480 --> 00:24:36,233 These taII feIIows, I don't think they traveIIed by train. 403 00:24:36,360 --> 00:24:39,318 (CatherIne) We did receive one that came on a Iong train journey 404 00:24:39,440 --> 00:24:42,796 to DubIin Zoo in 1902. 405 00:24:42,920 --> 00:24:47,630 We were given a present of a fuIIy-grown giraffe by an Irishman in the Sudan. 406 00:24:47,760 --> 00:24:52,311 It went on a train to Cairo and had to go under six bridges. 407 00:24:52,440 --> 00:24:55,830 The giraffe was far too taII in its car to get under each bridge, 408 00:24:55,960 --> 00:25:00,829 so they created a padded sIiding roof, and as it approached each bridge 409 00:25:00,960 --> 00:25:04,430 the sIiding roof gentIy cIosed and the giraffe's head dropped down. 410 00:25:04,560 --> 00:25:08,553 It went under the bridge and the roof was opened and he had air once more. 411 00:25:09,720 --> 00:25:12,951 When zoos were fIrst founded, they were prIvate socIetIes, 412 00:25:13,080 --> 00:25:16,231 aImed squarely at wealthy amateur naturalIsts. 413 00:25:16,360 --> 00:25:19,830 But whIle London Zoo remaIned exclusIve untIl 1 847, 414 00:25:19,960 --> 00:25:23,999 DublIn offered publIc entrance for sIxpence rIght from the start. 415 00:25:24,120 --> 00:25:28,511 Then, In 1 840, the zoo launched penny tIckets on Sundays. 416 00:25:30,320 --> 00:25:33,630 During the 19th century when the masses couId come here quite cheapIy, 417 00:25:33,760 --> 00:25:36,149 I'd Iove to think they came by train. Did they? 418 00:25:36,280 --> 00:25:39,078 InitiaIIy, it was IargeIy for DubIiners. A IocaI faciIity. 419 00:25:39,200 --> 00:25:42,829 But then we see, in the 1870s and 1880s particuIarIy, 420 00:25:42,960 --> 00:25:47,238 the whoIe movement of peopIe coming to DubIin for a day out 421 00:25:47,360 --> 00:25:51,751 or for a brief period, excursionists, tourists, to come to the zoo. 422 00:25:51,880 --> 00:25:54,440 That was cIearIy evident in the fact that the zoo, 423 00:25:54,560 --> 00:25:57,233 which had no money, put a Iot of money into advertising. 424 00:25:57,360 --> 00:26:01,239 And in the 1870s they wouId pIace every year, for a number of years, 425 00:26:01,360 --> 00:26:05,035 they pIaced framed advertisements ith Iions and tigers 426 00:26:05,160 --> 00:26:08,152 in 20 raiIway stations around the country. 427 00:26:08,280 --> 00:26:13,673 It was no coIncIdence that lIons were chosen as the poster boys of the zoo. 428 00:26:13,800 --> 00:26:16,633 In the 19th century, DublIn's lIons were renowned, 429 00:26:16,760 --> 00:26:20,036 as mIght bejudged from the grand former lIon house. 430 00:26:20,160 --> 00:26:23,835 Our Iions were so famous that American visitors 431 00:26:23,960 --> 00:26:28,033 were known to disembark in Cork on the way through to Europe 432 00:26:28,160 --> 00:26:31,436 and come up by train, by the Great Southern RaiIway, up to DubIin 433 00:26:31,560 --> 00:26:33,630 specificaIIy to visit our Iions. 434 00:26:33,760 --> 00:26:37,150 AmerIcan tourIsts were mostly headed for London or LIverpool, 435 00:26:37,280 --> 00:26:40,272 so stoppIng In DublIn was quIte a detour. 436 00:26:40,400 --> 00:26:43,551 One especIally bIg beast even attracted VIPs. 437 00:26:43,680 --> 00:26:47,559 In 1 878, the zoo's secretary, Samuel Horton, 438 00:26:47,680 --> 00:26:50,513 showed the lIons, IncludIng a huge one called CharlIe, 439 00:26:50,640 --> 00:26:53,712 to former US PresIdent Ulysses S Grant. 440 00:26:54,760 --> 00:26:58,833 He Iit up a cigar and contempIated CharIie, the extra-Iarge Iion, 441 00:26:58,960 --> 00:27:01,838 and at that point Horton decided to break the ice a bit 442 00:27:01,960 --> 00:27:03,871 and toId the President that, in fact, 443 00:27:04,000 --> 00:27:07,629 the Iions had been responsibIe for a two per cent rise in the vaIue 444 00:27:07,760 --> 00:27:11,230 of the Great Southern RaiIway, specificaIIy because American tourists 445 00:27:11,360 --> 00:27:14,352 came to DubIin to have a Iook at our famous Iions. 446 00:27:14,480 --> 00:27:17,790 TravellIng wIth my guIde book Is always full of surprIses. 447 00:27:17,920 --> 00:27:20,593 But I never thought that a trIp to the zoo 448 00:27:20,720 --> 00:27:23,598 would uncover quIte so much raIlway hIstory. 449 00:27:24,680 --> 00:27:29,231 What a joy it's been for me to revisit DubIin's fair city. 450 00:27:29,360 --> 00:27:32,716 And I'm deIighted to discover that two characters heIped 451 00:27:32,840 --> 00:27:35,308 the deveIopment of raiIways in IreIand, 452 00:27:35,440 --> 00:27:39,194 to whom train passengers shouId give thanks. 453 00:27:39,320 --> 00:27:42,073 The engineer WiIIiam Dargan, 454 00:27:42,200 --> 00:27:44,714 and a Iion caIIed CharIie. 455 00:27:50,960 --> 00:27:53,872 On the next stretch of my journey I'll be dIscoverIng 456 00:27:54,000 --> 00:27:57,879 an IndustrIal raIlway buIlt on InhospItable bogs... 457 00:27:58,000 --> 00:28:00,753 What scaIe of raiI operation do you have here? 458 00:28:00,880 --> 00:28:04,316 WeII, in totaI, we have 600 kiIometres of permanent raiI Iine. 459 00:28:04,440 --> 00:28:08,035 ..admIrIng a marvel of VIctorIan raIlway engIneerIng... 460 00:28:08,160 --> 00:28:11,516 Brendan, it's certainIy worth seeing the viaduct from here, isn't it? 461 00:28:11,640 --> 00:28:13,596 It soars above the town 462 00:28:13,720 --> 00:28:16,837 and is a wonderfuI combination of iron and stone. 463 00:28:16,960 --> 00:28:19,793 ..and unearthIng extraordInary underground secrets. 464 00:28:19,920 --> 00:28:23,549 - So now we're at the sharp end. - (man) This is where it aII happens. 465 00:28:23,680 --> 00:28:27,036 (man) Just mind your footing. Just foIIow me is probabIy the best thing.