0
00:00:05,040 --> 00:00:10,034
In 1 840, one man transformed
travel In BrItaIn and Ireland.

1
00:00:11,040 --> 00:00:13,031
HIs name was George Bradshaw,

2
00:00:13,160 --> 00:00:17,551
and hIs raIlway guIdes InspIred
the VIctorIans to take to the tracks.

3
00:00:18,360 --> 00:00:19,588
Stop by stop,

4
00:00:19,720 --> 00:00:21,597
he told them where to travel,

5
00:00:21,720 --> 00:00:23,915
what to see and where to stay.

6
00:00:24,760 --> 00:00:27,069
Now, 1 70 years later,

7
00:00:27,200 --> 00:00:31,716
I'm makIng a serIes ofjourneys across
the length and breadth of these Islands

8
00:00:31,840 --> 00:00:34,718
to see what of Bradshaw's world remaIns.

9
00:00:56,960 --> 00:00:59,599
I'm now compIeting my journey
across Northern IreIand,

10
00:00:59,720 --> 00:01:01,711
using my trusty Bradshaw's GuIde.

11
00:01:01,840 --> 00:01:04,229
I shaII be sorry to Ieave
the isIand of IreIand

12
00:01:04,360 --> 00:01:06,669
because of the warmth of the peopIe
that I've met,

13
00:01:06,800 --> 00:01:09,030
both south and north of the border.

14
00:01:11,080 --> 00:01:15,756
On today's part of my journey, I'll be
marvellIng at a gIant's handIwork...

15
00:01:15,880 --> 00:01:20,431
It is the most amazing,
awe-inspiring sight.

16
00:01:20,560 --> 00:01:24,155
..hearIng how women, famous
for theIr dexterIty wIth the needle,

17
00:01:24,280 --> 00:01:25,429
buIlt a cIty...

18
00:01:25,560 --> 00:01:28,518
If there wasn't a shirt factory,
this wouId be a desert.

19
00:01:28,640 --> 00:01:30,870
..and dIscoverIng how emIgratIon

20
00:01:31,000 --> 00:01:33,833
profoundly shaped
famIlIes and natIons...

21
00:01:33,960 --> 00:01:37,794
When you went to America in the '50s, it
was kind of goodbye for ever, you know?.

22
00:01:37,920 --> 00:01:40,798
My VIctorIan guIdebook
has brought me to a country

23
00:01:40,920 --> 00:01:45,914
that In the 19th century was one Ireland
lIvIng under the rule of Queen VIctorIa.

24
00:01:46,040 --> 00:01:48,952
StartIng In DublIn,
where the fIrst raIlways were laId,

25
00:01:49,080 --> 00:01:53,392
I've been led north along the unfurlIng
raIlway hIstory of thIs land.

26
00:01:53,520 --> 00:01:55,033
On thIs last stretch,

27
00:01:55,160 --> 00:01:58,709
I'm vIsItIng tourIst attractIons
that fascInated the VIctorIans,

28
00:01:58,840 --> 00:02:04,119
before explorIng movIng hIstorIes
of IndustrIal mIght and mass exodus.

29
00:02:09,280 --> 00:02:13,353
I shaII be getting off at BaIIymoney
and heading for what Bradshaw's caIIs

30
00:02:13,480 --> 00:02:18,076
''the famous Carrick-a-Rede rock,
which stands out 60 feet from the shore,

31
00:02:18,200 --> 00:02:22,239
to which it is joined onIy
by a sIender rope bridge

32
00:02:22,360 --> 00:02:25,238
across the chasm, 80ft from the water''.

33
00:02:25,360 --> 00:02:28,318
''A fine view from the heights above it.''

34
00:02:28,440 --> 00:02:31,830
And that prospect has me in suspense.

35
00:02:36,160 --> 00:02:41,075
In VIctorIan tImes, vIsItors flocked
to the CarrIck-a-Rede brIdge.

36
00:02:47,480 --> 00:02:51,996
But rIght from the early 1 8th century,
thIs spectacular crossIng,

37
00:02:52,120 --> 00:02:54,236
danglIng over the roarIng sea,

38
00:02:54,360 --> 00:02:57,909
was also key to the localIty's
Industry and economy.

39
00:02:59,920 --> 00:03:02,798
I read Bradshaw's description
of this bridge,

40
00:03:02,920 --> 00:03:05,559
but nothing prepared me
for what it's reaIIy Iike.

41
00:03:05,680 --> 00:03:09,116
The pIank that I'm waIking on
is so narrow.

42
00:03:10,880 --> 00:03:14,759
The faII beneath me is immense

43
00:03:14,880 --> 00:03:19,476
and the sea Iooks Iike it can't wait
to gobbIe me up.

44
00:03:20,520 --> 00:03:24,035
And, of course, the thing
is shaking from side to side.

45
00:03:25,040 --> 00:03:29,079
And just to add to the fun,
there's quite a stiff ind as weII.

46
00:03:36,520 --> 00:03:37,953
Made it!

47
00:03:41,320 --> 00:03:45,552
Safely across, I'm here to meet CarolIne
Redmond from the NatIonal Trust.

48
00:03:45,680 --> 00:03:47,033
HeIIo, CaroIine.

49
00:03:47,160 --> 00:03:49,833
PIeased to meet you.
WeIcome to Carrick-a-Rede isIand.

50
00:03:49,960 --> 00:03:53,191
I had the most exciting experience.
It's thriIIing on that bridge.

51
00:03:53,320 --> 00:03:56,392
(CarolIne) I'm gIad you think so.
It's a IittIe bit hairy at times.

52
00:03:56,520 --> 00:03:59,751
(MIchael) My Bradshaw's recommended
that I come on the rope bridge.

53
00:03:59,880 --> 00:04:03,759
He taIked about it being 80ft above
the water and having a fantastic view.

54
00:04:03,880 --> 00:04:07,509
So I imagine even in Victorian times,
this was a very popuIar pIace.

55
00:04:07,640 --> 00:04:13,237
That's right. We have anecdotaI evidence
from the mid-1 700s and earIy-1800s

56
00:04:13,360 --> 00:04:17,353
that this was even then starting to be
something that tourists had to do.

57
00:04:17,480 --> 00:04:18,879
Scare themseIves senseIess.

58
00:04:20,320 --> 00:04:23,551
But thIs brIdge wasn't buIlt
as a tourIst attractIon.

59
00:04:23,680 --> 00:04:27,593
For over 300 years, fIshermen have been
rIskIng lIfe and lImb

60
00:04:27,720 --> 00:04:32,236
to cross to the Island, there to catch
mIgratIng North AtlantIc salmon.

61
00:04:33,600 --> 00:04:37,832
From March to September, the plump fIsh
return from feedIng out at sea

62
00:04:37,960 --> 00:04:41,635
to the AntrIm rIvers of the Bann
and the Bush to spawn.

63
00:04:43,480 --> 00:04:45,471
IntrepId fIshermen
would ready theIr nets

64
00:04:45,600 --> 00:04:47,955
all the way from the easternmost
poInt of the coast

65
00:04:48,080 --> 00:04:51,072
to the mouth of the Foyle
at Derry/Londonderry.

66
00:04:52,520 --> 00:04:53,635
(CarolIne) The saImon,

67
00:04:53,760 --> 00:04:56,399
unabIe to go through the vent
over which the bridge is,

68
00:04:56,520 --> 00:04:59,557
they wouId go round this rock
in their road.

69
00:04:59,680 --> 00:05:01,910
Carrick-a-Rede,
rock in the road of the saImon.

70
00:05:02,040 --> 00:05:05,237
It meant they wouId run themseIves
into bag nets

71
00:05:05,360 --> 00:05:08,989
and be niceIy caught ready for us
to eat, and that was a huge industry.

72
00:05:09,120 --> 00:05:12,874
At one point, there were upwards of
300 saImon per day being caught here.

73
00:05:13,000 --> 00:05:14,399
You had to be abIe to get across

74
00:05:14,520 --> 00:05:16,988
to take advantage of where
the saImon were running?

75
00:05:17,120 --> 00:05:21,272
(CarolIne) AbsoIuteIy. When the tide
wouId start, they wouId watch that

76
00:05:21,400 --> 00:05:24,233
and that wouId teII them
when they couId put the nets out,

77
00:05:24,360 --> 00:05:28,035
how far they couId put the nets out, to
catch that tide and that run of saImon.

78
00:05:29,080 --> 00:05:31,833
In the 19th century,
catchIng and tradIng fIsh

79
00:05:31,960 --> 00:05:35,669
constItuted one of the area's
prImary IndustrIes.

80
00:05:35,800 --> 00:05:39,509
The landowners had the fIshIng rIghts
and paId the fIshermen a wage,

81
00:05:39,640 --> 00:05:41,471
and a bonus If the catch was good.

82
00:05:42,320 --> 00:05:43,719
Are there stiII saImon here?

83
00:05:43,840 --> 00:05:47,833
There used to be upwards of 300 saImon
per day being caught here,

84
00:05:47,960 --> 00:05:51,748
but the Iast fisherman, Acky CoIgan,
in the very Iast season,

85
00:05:51,880 --> 00:05:55,429
which was 2002,
bareIy caught 300 the entire season.

86
00:05:55,560 --> 00:05:57,994
So, yes, there are some saImon.

87
00:05:58,120 --> 00:06:00,759
They're not in any catchabIe quantity.

88
00:06:00,880 --> 00:06:03,030
They're practicaIIy
an endangered species.

89
00:06:04,080 --> 00:06:08,312
Salmon fIshIng provIded a lIvIng
on thIs coastlIne for 300 years.

90
00:06:09,240 --> 00:06:11,913
And although sadly
that's no longer the case,

91
00:06:12,040 --> 00:06:13,553
the rope brIdge has remaIned.

92
00:06:13,680 --> 00:06:15,511
And just as In the VIctorIan era,

93
00:06:15,640 --> 00:06:19,030
adventurous tourIsts
are drawn to Its delIghts.

94
00:06:20,280 --> 00:06:23,989
We have anything from
240,000 to 250,000 visitors a year.

95
00:06:24,120 --> 00:06:27,317
(MIchael) And they come, just as
in Bradshaw's time, for the thriII

96
00:06:27,440 --> 00:06:30,955
of being 80ft above the water
and having that fantastic view.

97
00:06:31,080 --> 00:06:33,310
(CarolIne) That's right.
To have Iegs of jeIIy.

98
00:06:33,440 --> 00:06:35,715
To go on to the isIand
and sit a whiIe ith the views

99
00:06:35,840 --> 00:06:39,913
over the seas of MoyIe, RathIin,
IsIay, Jura, the MuII.

100
00:06:40,040 --> 00:06:41,996
It's paradise.

101
00:06:44,480 --> 00:06:47,631
My tIme In thIs atmospherIc locatIon
Is up

102
00:06:47,760 --> 00:06:50,957
and I must gIngerly return
across the CarrIck-a-Rede brIdge.

103
00:06:53,000 --> 00:06:55,798
But I'm contInuIng
on the North AntrIm coast

104
00:06:55,920 --> 00:06:58,992
to head to Ireland's
most IconIc natural landmark.

105
00:07:00,840 --> 00:07:04,833
Next stop for me, the Giant's Causeway,
which my Bradshaw's says

106
00:07:04,960 --> 00:07:09,238
''is properIy so-caIIed, consisting
of a Iow promontory or rocky pier

107
00:07:09,360 --> 00:07:13,114
sIoping into the sea
for eight or nine hundred feet''.

108
00:07:13,240 --> 00:07:16,118
I've never seen it before.
I don't reaIIy know what to expect.

109
00:07:16,240 --> 00:07:20,597
I've aIways wanted to visit it, and
the best way to get there is by steam.

110
00:07:22,920 --> 00:07:26,435
Steam engInes always attract me,
but thIs lIne carrIed

111
00:07:26,560 --> 00:07:29,757
another revolutIonary raIlway system
In VIctorIan tImes.

112
00:07:29,880 --> 00:07:33,475
It once operated
an InnovatIve electrIc tramway

113
00:07:33,600 --> 00:07:36,034
takIng tourIsts to the GIant's Causeway.

114
00:07:38,800 --> 00:07:42,713
I'mjoIned on my journey
by herItage consultant John Bustard.

115
00:07:43,800 --> 00:07:46,109
This is a charming raiIway.
What is its history?

116
00:07:46,240 --> 00:07:51,997
The history of the raiIway dates back
to 1879 when a pIan was put forward

117
00:07:52,120 --> 00:07:53,678
by WiIIiam Acheson TraiII

118
00:07:53,800 --> 00:07:57,873
to the Board of Trade to put
in a fabuIous new hydro-eIectric tram.

119
00:07:58,000 --> 00:08:02,232
Hydro-eIectric? Meaning that faIIing
water produced the eIectricity?

120
00:08:02,360 --> 00:08:04,920
It was the first hydro-eIectric tram
in the worId, yes.

121
00:08:05,600 --> 00:08:09,832
A raIl carryIng 250 volts
naturally put some local VIctorIans

122
00:08:09,960 --> 00:08:11,552
In fear for theIr lIves.

123
00:08:11,680 --> 00:08:16,231
To prove Its safety, the crafty
Mr TraIll came up wIth a cunnIng plan.

124
00:08:16,960 --> 00:08:20,270
(John) The story goes that Mr TraiII
arrived in rubberised boots

125
00:08:20,400 --> 00:08:24,632
and actuaIIy bared part of his anatomy
and sat on the raiI

126
00:08:24,760 --> 00:08:26,432
to prove that this wasn't a danger.

127
00:08:26,560 --> 00:08:29,233
He didn't go up in smoke
and it convinced the Board of Trade

128
00:08:29,360 --> 00:08:30,509
that it was OK to operate.

129
00:08:30,640 --> 00:08:33,677
What they didn't know was that
he had his own men running trams

130
00:08:33,800 --> 00:08:36,633
at other parts of the Iine
to take the pressure off.

131
00:08:36,760 --> 00:08:39,718
According to accounts from his daughter,

132
00:08:39,840 --> 00:08:43,719
when he was asked if it hurt he said,
''Yes, it hurt Iike bIazes!''

133
00:08:44,760 --> 00:08:49,550
The tramway ran for 65 years,
eventuaIIy cIosing in 1949.

134
00:08:49,680 --> 00:08:54,117
The lIne reopened a decade ago
and just as In the VIctorIan era,

135
00:08:54,240 --> 00:08:57,915
It ferrIes eager tourIsts lIke me
to the GIant's Causeway.

136
00:08:59,960 --> 00:09:01,393
That was great. Thank you.

137
00:09:05,520 --> 00:09:08,239
Reputed In folklore to be buIlt
by a gIant,

138
00:09:08,360 --> 00:09:12,797
the Causeway's InterlockIng honeycomb
of basalt columns

139
00:09:12,920 --> 00:09:14,876
captIvated the VIctorIans.

140
00:09:15,000 --> 00:09:18,595
Renowned author WIllIam Thackeray
descrIbed It as lookIng lIke

141
00:09:18,720 --> 00:09:22,156
''the begInnIng of the world.
A remnant of chaos''.

142
00:09:23,800 --> 00:09:27,190
John, it is the most amazing,
awe-inspiring sight.

143
00:09:27,320 --> 00:09:29,834
I had no idea what to expect.

144
00:09:29,960 --> 00:09:33,714
If we don't beIieve it was created by
a giant, what's the other expIanation?

145
00:09:33,840 --> 00:09:36,912
(John) WeII, the voIcanic activity
of the Tertiary period

146
00:09:37,040 --> 00:09:38,632
over 60 miIIion years ago

147
00:09:38,760 --> 00:09:43,038
was when the Iava fIow hit the sea
and cooIed very quickIy.

148
00:09:43,160 --> 00:09:47,870
EssentiaIIy, that crystaIIised the rocks
into the various shapes that we see.

149
00:09:48,000 --> 00:09:49,877
This rock you're standing on originaIIy

150
00:09:50,000 --> 00:09:51,956
when the tectonic pIates
wouId have moved

151
00:09:52,080 --> 00:09:55,595
wouId have been probabIy as far away
as Sub-Saharan Africa.

152
00:09:55,720 --> 00:09:58,837
Bradshaw's doesn't aIways get it right,
so teII me if this is true.

153
00:09:58,960 --> 00:10:04,034
He says, ''There are 40,000 dark basaIt
piIIars, mostIy five or six sided,

154
00:10:04,160 --> 00:10:08,358
whiIe some have onIy three
and others have as many as nine sides.''

155
00:10:08,480 --> 00:10:10,391
- Is that true?
- (John) That's true.

156
00:10:10,520 --> 00:10:14,718
AIthough there were onIy 39,998 rocks
the Iast time we counted!

157
00:10:16,760 --> 00:10:20,435
The VIctorIans shrewdly marketed
the Causeway as a tourIst attractIon,

158
00:10:20,560 --> 00:10:22,437
fencIng off the rocky splendours

159
00:10:22,560 --> 00:10:26,678
and chargIng a not InconsIderable
entry fee of two shIllIngs.

160
00:10:26,800 --> 00:10:30,634
A tea room was erected, stalls lIned
the pathway down to the Causeway

161
00:10:30,760 --> 00:10:32,830
and local guIdes conducted tours.

162
00:10:33,880 --> 00:10:37,589
Thackeray hated the clamour
of guIdes, boatmen and vagrants

163
00:10:37,720 --> 00:10:40,234
and lamented that,
''If, as no doubt wIll be the case,

164
00:10:40,360 --> 00:10:44,319
the GIant's Causeway shall be a stIll
greater resort of travellers than ever,

165
00:10:44,440 --> 00:10:48,035
the country must put polIcemen
on the rocks to keep the beggars away,

166
00:10:48,160 --> 00:10:50,879
or flIng them In the water
when they appear. ''

167
00:10:53,280 --> 00:10:56,636
Why do you think the Victorians were
so fascinated by sights Iike this?

168
00:10:56,760 --> 00:11:01,709
I think it was the curiosity they had
for geoIogy and for Iandscape.

169
00:11:01,840 --> 00:11:04,752
The period they were in,
the worId had opened up quite a Iot

170
00:11:04,880 --> 00:11:08,634
and so many wonders were being
shipped in from aII over the worId.

171
00:11:08,760 --> 00:11:11,832
To find things Iike this
actuaIIy ithin the United Kingdom

172
00:11:11,960 --> 00:11:13,996
was quite interesting in its own right.

173
00:11:15,760 --> 00:11:19,799
ThIs fascInatIng place Is full
of wonderful geologIcal features,

174
00:11:19,920 --> 00:11:21,638
such as the GIant's Organ,

175
00:11:21,760 --> 00:11:26,038
whose array of stone pIpes
would look at home In a cathedral

176
00:11:26,160 --> 00:11:30,153
and caused Bradshaw to descrIbe
the area as a ''remarkable coast''.

177
00:11:40,240 --> 00:11:44,631
It's been a great day on the northern
shores and It's not over yet.

178
00:11:46,360 --> 00:11:50,148
I'll make one more stop on my journey
before I retIre for the evenIng.

179
00:11:51,440 --> 00:11:52,998
I'II be getting off at BeIIarena.

180
00:11:53,120 --> 00:11:58,035
My destination is Dungiven,
home to an important Irish cIan.

181
00:11:58,160 --> 00:12:02,915
And as I head for my overnight stay,
a song is in the air.

182
00:12:03,040 --> 00:12:04,758
(''Danny Boy'' plays)

183
00:12:09,080 --> 00:12:11,878
In hIs guIde,
Bradshaw mentIons the O'NeIlls,

184
00:12:12,000 --> 00:12:16,073
just one of the many clans
who ruled the area for centurIes.

185
00:12:16,200 --> 00:12:19,795
Another was the O'Cahans,
and I've come to DungIven Castle

186
00:12:19,920 --> 00:12:23,993
to meet hIstorIan John HamIlton
to dIscover more about them.

187
00:12:24,840 --> 00:12:25,829
John.

188
00:12:25,960 --> 00:12:28,474
- HeIIo.
- What shouId I know about Dungiven?

189
00:12:28,600 --> 00:12:30,875
(John) It was one of the seats
of the O'Cahan cIan

190
00:12:31,000 --> 00:12:33,036
who dominated this area
for many centuries.

191
00:12:33,160 --> 00:12:36,994
There's one IittIe thing about the
O'Cahan cIan that you might not reaIise.

192
00:12:37,120 --> 00:12:40,192
They're known worIdide
because of a song.

193
00:12:40,320 --> 00:12:41,878
- The song being?
- Danny Boy.

194
00:12:42,000 --> 00:12:43,228
Danny Boy.

195
00:12:43,360 --> 00:12:46,830
Picture right back
to the start of the 1600s

196
00:12:46,960 --> 00:12:48,837
when the cIan system was faIIing apart.

197
00:12:48,960 --> 00:12:53,033
The IocaI piper, Rory DaII O'Cahan,
tried to write a tune

198
00:12:53,160 --> 00:12:57,233
that wouId sum up the parting,
peopIe going away, things faIIing apart,

199
00:12:57,360 --> 00:12:59,999
but a hope that some day
they might come back together.

200
00:13:00,120 --> 00:13:04,238
AccordIng to legend,
Rory Dall O'Cahan was mournIng

201
00:13:04,360 --> 00:13:08,433
the confIscatIon of famIly lands
and the destructIon of the clan system,

202
00:13:08,560 --> 00:13:11,711
whIch brought to an end
the lIne of O'Cahan rulers.

203
00:13:12,600 --> 00:13:15,831
It's a Iament. It's a reaIIy sad,
emotive tune, isn't it?

204
00:13:15,960 --> 00:13:19,839
It is. The thing was, he tried to write
the tune but he couIdn't get it.

205
00:13:19,960 --> 00:13:22,872
So he feII asIeep
on the banks of the River Roe

206
00:13:23,000 --> 00:13:27,391
and when he woke up in the morning,
there was this harp pIaying itseIf.

207
00:13:27,520 --> 00:13:29,636
That tune was a gift from the fairies.

208
00:13:29,760 --> 00:13:32,035
I think this is a sIightIy taII story.

209
00:13:32,160 --> 00:13:35,436
Am I right that Danny Boy is aIso known
as The Londonderry Air?

210
00:13:35,560 --> 00:13:38,836
WeII, many centuries Iater,
into Victorian times,

211
00:13:38,960 --> 00:13:41,155
a Iady heard the tune
being pIayed by a piper

212
00:13:41,280 --> 00:13:44,431
and she pubIished it
through a DubIin pubIisher.

213
00:13:44,560 --> 00:13:48,997
He caIIed it The Londonderry Air
because he'd got it as an unnamed tune.

214
00:13:49,120 --> 00:13:52,874
It then went round the worId,
and over in CoIorado

215
00:13:53,000 --> 00:13:56,788
an EngIish Iady heard it being pIayed
at a goId camp.

216
00:13:56,920 --> 00:13:59,639
She wrote it down,
sent it to her brother in EngIand,

217
00:13:59,760 --> 00:14:03,309
who aIready had a set of words,
which fitted the tune perfectIy.

218
00:14:03,440 --> 00:14:06,193
The two came together
and we have the tune today,

219
00:14:06,320 --> 00:14:10,108
The Londonderry Air, and the song,
Danny Boy, known worIdide.

220
00:14:10,240 --> 00:14:13,198
But it aII goes back to the O'Cahan cIan
and their Iament.

221
00:14:13,320 --> 00:14:14,719
It does indeed.

222
00:14:15,760 --> 00:14:20,709
The old O'Cahan chIefs are burIed just a
few mInutes' walk from DungIven Castle.

223
00:14:20,840 --> 00:14:24,230
And as I turn In for the nIght,
I shall lIsten for the pIpes callIng

224
00:14:24,360 --> 00:14:27,796
from ''glen to glen
and down the mountaIn sIde''.

225
00:14:36,960 --> 00:14:40,191
A new day and, sadly,
my fInal one In Ireland.

226
00:14:40,320 --> 00:14:44,233
So I'm back on the tracks
and headIng towards my last destInatIon.

227
00:14:47,400 --> 00:14:48,879
What's in a name?

228
00:14:49,000 --> 00:14:52,788
The city where I'm headed now,
some caII Derry and others, Londonderry.

229
00:14:52,920 --> 00:14:55,480
Both names occur in Bradshaw's.

230
00:14:55,600 --> 00:15:00,230
Nowadays, the difference can be regarded
as poIiticaIIy significant.

231
00:15:00,360 --> 00:15:03,955
So I'd best use both names
ith equaI emphasis.

232
00:15:06,360 --> 00:15:09,636
In fact, there's a story I was told
about a traIn some years ago.

233
00:15:09,760 --> 00:15:13,435
The NatIonalIst guard announced
that It was goIng to Derry,

234
00:15:13,560 --> 00:15:16,074
so the UnIonIst drIver refused to move.

235
00:15:17,320 --> 00:15:21,154
TeII me, do you think it matters what we
caII the city where we're headed now?.

236
00:15:22,280 --> 00:15:24,953
- To some peopIe, it does.
- Are you one of them?

237
00:15:25,080 --> 00:15:30,154
Not reaIIy. I was brought up here
in the viIIage of EgIinton

238
00:15:30,280 --> 00:15:32,635
and as a chiId, we caIIed it Derry.

239
00:15:32,760 --> 00:15:35,638
Then, as the TroubIes came,
it got more poIiticaI.

240
00:15:35,760 --> 00:15:37,830
PeopIe took sides.

241
00:15:37,960 --> 00:15:40,394
Some peopIe caII it Derry,
some caII it Londonderry.

242
00:15:40,520 --> 00:15:43,637
- Does it reaIIy matter?
- That's what I'm asking you.

243
00:15:43,760 --> 00:15:48,231
WeII, it's aIways been Londonderry
for me, so I caII it Londonderry.

244
00:15:48,360 --> 00:15:52,239
Some other peopIe might caII it
something eIse because they want to,

245
00:15:52,360 --> 00:15:54,078
but to me, it's Londonderry.

246
00:15:57,360 --> 00:16:00,909
Derry or Londonderry Is the second
largest cIty In Northern Ireland.

247
00:16:01,040 --> 00:16:04,589
The RIver Foyle Intersects It,
wIth the old walled cIty,

248
00:16:04,720 --> 00:16:08,235
one of the fInest examples In Europe,
on the west bank

249
00:16:08,360 --> 00:16:10,271
and watersIde on the east.

250
00:16:10,400 --> 00:16:12,038
The London prefIx was added

251
00:16:12,160 --> 00:16:17,473
after Derry was granted a Royal Charter
by King James I In 1613.

252
00:16:23,720 --> 00:16:26,518
The city retains
its beautifuI, fortified waIIs.

253
00:16:26,640 --> 00:16:30,349
It ithstood the siege
of the CathoIic King James II.

254
00:16:30,480 --> 00:16:35,270
And, Iike most history in this city,
that remains contentious to this day.

255
00:16:38,320 --> 00:16:39,639
The cIty has been at the heart

256
00:16:39,760 --> 00:16:42,194
of relIgIous and polItIcal turmoIl
for centurIes.

257
00:16:42,320 --> 00:16:46,393
From CatholIc King James's encIrclement
of the Protestant populatIon

258
00:16:46,520 --> 00:16:51,355
to the sectarIan vIolence
of the IrIsh CIvIl War In the 1920s.

259
00:16:53,160 --> 00:16:56,709
In the 1960s and '70s,
the cIty was once more the flashpoInt

260
00:16:56,840 --> 00:17:00,276
of dIsputes between
NatIonalIsts and UnIonIsts

261
00:17:00,400 --> 00:17:03,278
and on Bloody Sunday In 1972,

262
00:17:03,400 --> 00:17:06,597
1 4 were kIlled when the BrItIsh Army
fIred Into a crowd.

263
00:17:09,440 --> 00:17:13,752
But In a cIty that suffered so much,
the hIstory of one Industry

264
00:17:13,880 --> 00:17:17,953
offers examples of the people's
fIne spIrIt and resIlIence,

265
00:17:18,080 --> 00:17:19,991
away from the polItIcal struggles.

266
00:17:23,520 --> 00:17:26,114
My Bradshaw's teII me that
''the peopIe hereabouts

267
00:17:26,240 --> 00:17:28,879
were principaIIy empIoyed
in the Iinen trade''.

268
00:17:29,000 --> 00:17:33,073
That began a Iong history in the city
of invoIvement in textiIes.

269
00:17:33,200 --> 00:17:36,033
And the common feature
of aII those industries,

270
00:17:36,160 --> 00:17:38,993
is that they empIoyed
principaIIy women.

271
00:17:41,360 --> 00:17:44,318
WeavIng lInen
had been a hugely Important Industry

272
00:17:44,440 --> 00:17:46,749
In the 1 8th and 19th centurIes.

273
00:17:46,880 --> 00:17:50,555
But as BeIfast became a centre
for productIon from the 1 830s onwards,

274
00:17:50,680 --> 00:17:54,958
Derry lost out and found ItseIf
wIth a plentIful supply

275
00:17:55,080 --> 00:17:58,629
of unemployed, skIlled women
hungry for work.

276
00:17:59,360 --> 00:18:03,273
As BrItIsh cItIes grew fast
and demand for clothIng escalated,

277
00:18:03,400 --> 00:18:05,834
the factory system was gaInIng ground.

278
00:18:05,960 --> 00:18:08,952
And In the 1 850s,
the sewIng machIne was Invented,

279
00:18:09,080 --> 00:18:10,911
gIvIng rIse to shIrt manufacture.

280
00:18:13,600 --> 00:18:15,750
It flourIshed well Into the 20th century

281
00:18:15,880 --> 00:18:19,509
and at AustIns, the world's oldest
Independent department store,

282
00:18:19,640 --> 00:18:22,154
I'm meetIng Jeanette Warke
and AvrIl Campbell,

283
00:18:22,280 --> 00:18:25,590
who both worked In shIrt-makIng
for many years.

284
00:18:29,760 --> 00:18:31,990
What was Iife Iike
in the shirt factories?

285
00:18:32,120 --> 00:18:35,237
I found it, you know,
aII the companionship,

286
00:18:35,360 --> 00:18:40,309
the fun and the banter and working
ith the other girIs, it was just great.

287
00:18:41,160 --> 00:18:43,151
Everybody shared their probIems.

288
00:18:43,280 --> 00:18:45,635
(woman 2) GirIs from every part
of the city.

289
00:18:45,760 --> 00:18:47,990
(MIchael) You had girIs
from both communities?

290
00:18:48,120 --> 00:18:49,075
(woman 2) Oh, yes.

291
00:18:49,200 --> 00:18:51,668
(MIchael) You were nearIy aII Iadies.
Is that true?

292
00:18:51,800 --> 00:18:53,074
(woman 2) That's true, yes.

293
00:18:53,200 --> 00:18:57,034
Was there a tradition in the city
of women being in empIoyment?

294
00:18:57,160 --> 00:19:00,391
- Yes, aIways.
- There was no jobs for the men.

295
00:19:00,520 --> 00:19:01,839
There was never jobs for men.

296
00:19:01,960 --> 00:19:05,509
Men mostIy stayed at home
and Iooked after the kids.

297
00:19:06,760 --> 00:19:09,752
DurIng Queen VIctorIa's reIgn,
a female workforce

298
00:19:09,880 --> 00:19:12,838
powered IndustrIal development
and the cIty's prosperIty.

299
00:19:14,040 --> 00:19:18,033
ShIrt factorIes domInated the cIty
and Its Industry was once claImed

300
00:19:18,160 --> 00:19:20,469
to be the largest of Its kInd
In the world.

301
00:19:22,200 --> 00:19:24,509
How important was shirt-making
to the city?

302
00:19:24,640 --> 00:19:26,710
- Very important.
- Very important.

303
00:19:26,840 --> 00:19:32,278
It was the most important industry
and that's where the money came from.

304
00:19:32,400 --> 00:19:35,437
If there wasn't a shirt factory,
this wouId probabIy be a desert.

305
00:19:35,560 --> 00:19:38,518
There wouId be nobody here.

306
00:19:39,520 --> 00:19:43,229
At the peak,
there were 44 shIrt factorIes In Derry,

307
00:19:43,360 --> 00:19:46,591
wIth an Industry employIng
a remarkable 1 8,000 people,

308
00:19:46,720 --> 00:19:49,473
whose products were sold worldwIde.

309
00:19:49,600 --> 00:19:52,194
The shirts from the city
were definiteIy perfection.

310
00:19:52,320 --> 00:19:54,834
- QuaIity.
- It was the stitching.

311
00:19:54,960 --> 00:19:57,599
(woman 1 ) Every stitch had to be perfect
on those shirts.

312
00:19:57,720 --> 00:20:01,030
(woman 2) If you had a Derry shirt,
you had a quaIity item.

313
00:20:01,160 --> 00:20:06,439
I remember the girIs used to put
their name and address on the shirts.

314
00:20:06,560 --> 00:20:08,437
SIip IittIe notes in the pockets.

315
00:20:08,560 --> 00:20:11,199
They hoped that if a nice gentIeman
bought the shirt,

316
00:20:11,320 --> 00:20:13,117
that they wouId get in touch.

317
00:20:13,240 --> 00:20:18,951
I'm sure there was a few marriages made
from a shirt from Londonderry or Derry.

318
00:20:19,080 --> 00:20:21,116
(woman 2) When I went down
in the middIe '50s,

319
00:20:21,240 --> 00:20:25,995
there were enormous great cast-iron
irons which weighed a tonne.

320
00:20:26,120 --> 00:20:28,793
And it was Iit ith gas.

321
00:20:28,920 --> 00:20:31,992
It was used for making toast
for breakfast.

322
00:20:32,120 --> 00:20:33,519
They got brown paper,

323
00:20:33,640 --> 00:20:37,838
and they put bread in between the brown
paper and sat the iron on top.

324
00:20:37,960 --> 00:20:40,428
It was the most gorgeous toast
ever you couId eat.

325
00:20:40,560 --> 00:20:42,710
- We weren't supposed to do that.
- No.

326
00:20:42,840 --> 00:20:46,230
- And...
- ''Ruins the iron, ruins the iron.''

327
00:20:46,360 --> 00:20:48,237
(woman 1 ) The girIs did work very hard.

328
00:20:48,360 --> 00:20:50,874
I can remember girIs working
through their tea break.

329
00:20:51,000 --> 00:20:52,956
Working aII the time,
they never stopped.

330
00:20:53,080 --> 00:20:54,798
They worked reaIIy, reaIIy hard.

331
00:20:57,520 --> 00:21:01,399
In the 1 8th century,
lInen passed through Londonderry port,

332
00:21:01,520 --> 00:21:02,839
and In the 19th and 20th,

333
00:21:02,960 --> 00:21:06,919
shIrts were shIpped to the world,
most Importantly to AmerIca.

334
00:21:08,360 --> 00:21:12,194
But In the 1 850s,
the growth of Ireland's raIlway network

335
00:21:12,320 --> 00:21:16,438
provIded the cIty wIth
an even more Important outbound flow.

336
00:21:17,600 --> 00:21:21,229
Bradshaw's teIIs me that Londonderry
''carries on a considerabIe

337
00:21:21,360 --> 00:21:23,920
commerciaI intercourse ith America''.

338
00:21:24,040 --> 00:21:26,679
''Being favourabIy situated for commerce

339
00:21:26,800 --> 00:21:29,951
and possessing an exceIIent,
secure harbour

340
00:21:30,080 --> 00:21:32,548
ith a spIendid Iine of quays.''

341
00:21:32,680 --> 00:21:37,993
But the most significant export from
the city was not goods, but peopIe.

342
00:21:38,920 --> 00:21:42,117
Londonderry became
one of the maIn ports In Ireland

343
00:21:42,240 --> 00:21:44,470
for emIgratIon to the UnIted States.

344
00:21:44,600 --> 00:21:48,309
To explore thIs poIgnant story,
I'm on the banks of the RIver Foyle,

345
00:21:48,440 --> 00:21:52,718
In rather Inclement weather,
to meet genealogIst, BrIan MItchell.

346
00:21:53,760 --> 00:21:55,990
- Brian, heIIo.
- HeIIo, MichaeI.

347
00:21:56,120 --> 00:21:59,510
When did Derry become a major port
for emigration to America?

348
00:21:59,640 --> 00:22:03,918
I wouId say from the earIy 1 700s
when the first of the UIster Scots,

349
00:22:04,040 --> 00:22:06,429
as they're known in America,
the Scotch-Irish,

350
00:22:06,560 --> 00:22:08,152
headed out of here in big numbers.

351
00:22:08,280 --> 00:22:11,272
It continued right though the 1800s
and the famine years.

352
00:22:11,400 --> 00:22:15,518
In the peak years, some 12,000
were Ieaving here in saiIing ships.

353
00:22:16,640 --> 00:22:20,076
Unprecedented famIne afflIcted
ImpoverIshed IrIsh famIlIes

354
00:22:20,200 --> 00:22:24,716
In the 1 840s, wIth the repeated faIlure
of the staple potato crop.

355
00:22:24,840 --> 00:22:29,436
It's estImated that In a sIngle decade,
at least a mIllIon dIed of starvatIon

356
00:22:29,560 --> 00:22:33,951
and another mIllIon emIgrated,
prImarIly to the UnIted States.

357
00:22:35,400 --> 00:22:39,075
By the 1 860s,
the newly developed raIlway network

358
00:22:39,200 --> 00:22:42,636
assIsted the unparalleled exodus
from Ireland's shores,

359
00:22:42,760 --> 00:22:46,673
funnellIng emIgrants from the northern
haIf of Ireland Into the cIty.

360
00:22:48,080 --> 00:22:50,640
Do you think the raiIways capitaIised
on emigration?

361
00:22:50,760 --> 00:22:53,558
- Did they see a commerciaI opportunity?
- I think they did.

362
00:22:53,680 --> 00:22:56,990
The raiIway companies and the
steam-ship companies worked together.

363
00:22:57,120 --> 00:23:00,032
EffectiveIy, you couId've booked
from any raiIway station

364
00:23:00,160 --> 00:23:01,878
in the northern haIf of IreIand,

365
00:23:02,000 --> 00:23:04,833
to wherever you wanted
your finaI destination.

366
00:23:04,960 --> 00:23:08,191
For exampIe, a potentiaI emigrant
from CIones in County Monaghan,

367
00:23:08,320 --> 00:23:11,198
couId've purchased a ticket
that wouId've got them to Derry,

368
00:23:11,320 --> 00:23:14,232
then on the boat to North America,
New York or wherever.

369
00:23:14,360 --> 00:23:16,032
Then a through passage to Chicago

370
00:23:16,160 --> 00:23:18,993
or wherever they wanted
their end destinations.

371
00:23:20,360 --> 00:23:23,033
VIctorIan emIgrants would arrIve
at the raIlway statIon

372
00:23:23,160 --> 00:23:25,674
to be met by
an agent of the shIppIng lInes.

373
00:23:25,800 --> 00:23:29,634
A tug would then convey them
1 8 mIles downstream to MovIlle,

374
00:23:29,760 --> 00:23:33,435
where the transatlantIc lIners
were moored In deep water.

375
00:23:34,280 --> 00:23:37,317
As the shIps conveyed emIgrants
towards theIr new world,

376
00:23:37,440 --> 00:23:41,228
It was customary to lIght a bonfIre
on the hIlls above the cIty,

377
00:23:41,360 --> 00:23:44,079
a beacon that mIght well offer
the passengers

378
00:23:44,200 --> 00:23:47,510
theIr last glImpse ever
of the Emerald Isle.

379
00:23:48,560 --> 00:23:51,518
I've seen pictures of these tenders.
They're nearIy Iopsided.

380
00:23:51,640 --> 00:23:53,949
There's 400 peopIe crammed
into these tenders

381
00:23:54,080 --> 00:23:56,196
that were taking them down to MoviIIe.

382
00:23:56,320 --> 00:24:00,233
Every week there was at Ieast
one ship from GIasgow or LiverpooI

383
00:24:00,360 --> 00:24:03,113
coming into MoviIIe
to coIIect emigrants.

384
00:24:03,240 --> 00:24:06,471
I've heard a figure that eight miIIion
peopIe emigrated from IreIand

385
00:24:06,600 --> 00:24:08,477
between 1800 and 1922.

386
00:24:08,600 --> 00:24:11,273
The popuIation
of IreIand today is onIy six miIIion,

387
00:24:11,400 --> 00:24:13,516
it gives you an idea of the scaIe of it.

388
00:24:16,720 --> 00:24:21,669
The determInatIon, regrets and hopes
of those 19th-century emIgrants

389
00:24:21,800 --> 00:24:23,552
can only be guessed at.

390
00:24:24,520 --> 00:24:29,548
But mass emIgratIon contInued
well Into the 20th century.

391
00:24:29,680 --> 00:24:31,716
As the weather clears,
I'm meetIng someone

392
00:24:31,840 --> 00:24:35,549
who can tell me of that mIx of emotIons,
BrIgId MakowskI.

393
00:24:38,320 --> 00:24:40,914
I understand that you emigrated
to America.

394
00:24:41,040 --> 00:24:44,077
I did. 1955.

395
00:24:44,200 --> 00:24:46,156
I went out and I married an American.

396
00:24:46,280 --> 00:24:48,236
(MIchael) How had you met this American?

397
00:24:48,360 --> 00:24:54,071
He came up that river on
the USS Johnson, an American Navy ship.

398
00:24:54,200 --> 00:24:59,035
I met him at a dance haII,
I was 18 and he was 21 .

399
00:25:00,360 --> 00:25:05,036
Me daddy said it was OK. I went out
on the SS Saxonia Cunard Iine.

400
00:25:05,160 --> 00:25:06,912
I remember it weII.

401
00:25:07,040 --> 00:25:11,238
Did you have an tremendous sense
of adventure, of starting a new Iife?

402
00:25:11,360 --> 00:25:15,717
I did. At that time,
Derry was weII depressed.

403
00:25:15,840 --> 00:25:18,912
Derry now is coming on grand.

404
00:25:19,040 --> 00:25:22,032
But in them days, in the '50s,
it was mass emigration.

405
00:25:23,280 --> 00:25:26,511
- There didn't seem to be any future.
- Did you get much of a send off?

406
00:25:26,640 --> 00:25:30,428
Yes. There was aIways in those days
a thing caIIed an American Wake.

407
00:25:30,560 --> 00:25:32,835
The famiIy wouId aII get together.

408
00:25:32,960 --> 00:25:36,430
In the '50s, it wasn't Iike now
where you can come back and forth.

409
00:25:36,560 --> 00:25:40,792
When you went to America in the '50s, it
was kind of goodbye for ever, you know?.

410
00:25:40,920 --> 00:25:45,436
I remember my father when I was Ieaving,
I was in the taxi and he kissed me.

411
00:25:45,560 --> 00:25:49,109
He says, ''Goodbye,
I'II hardIy see you again.''

412
00:25:49,240 --> 00:25:53,313
It turned out to be true.
He died before I'd seen him again.

413
00:25:54,400 --> 00:25:58,552
BrIgId's new lIfe In the UnIted States
brought change on every front.

414
00:26:00,040 --> 00:26:02,349
(BrIgId) I was born in a wee house.

415
00:26:02,480 --> 00:26:05,358
There were seven kids, my mother
and father in two bedrooms.

416
00:26:05,480 --> 00:26:08,756
No inside toiIet, no inside water.

417
00:26:08,880 --> 00:26:11,030
When I went out to the States,
in PhiIadeIphia,

418
00:26:11,160 --> 00:26:13,469
Leo's house,
I thought they were miIIionaires.

419
00:26:13,600 --> 00:26:18,230
They had TV and a refrigerator
and a freezer.

420
00:26:18,360 --> 00:26:20,828
They aII had their own bedrooms,
and, you know.

421
00:26:20,960 --> 00:26:22,598
After 1 8 years In AmerIca,

422
00:26:22,720 --> 00:26:25,439
BrIdget and her husband
returned to lIve In Ireland.

423
00:26:25,560 --> 00:26:27,835
Are you gIad to be Iiving now
back in Derry?

424
00:26:27,960 --> 00:26:30,030
I'm just across the border in DonegaI.

425
00:26:30,160 --> 00:26:32,628
I'm in Derry aII the time,
because Derry and DonegaI,

426
00:26:32,760 --> 00:26:35,433
everybody in Derry
has a granny in DonegaI.

427
00:26:35,560 --> 00:26:39,075
But I Iove it.
I'm as happy as the day is Iong.

428
00:26:40,560 --> 00:26:42,949
BrIgId's famIly Is typIcal
of many In Ireland,

429
00:26:43,080 --> 00:26:44,832
wIth relatIves stIll In AmerIca,

430
00:26:44,960 --> 00:26:47,633
IncludIng one of her sIsters
and her son,

431
00:26:47,760 --> 00:26:52,038
who left durIng the 1980s recessIon
to seek work.

432
00:26:52,160 --> 00:26:56,950
And echoIng the past, recent fIgures
show that as thIs recessIon bItes,

433
00:26:57,080 --> 00:27:00,789
Ireland Is once agaIn seeIng
a large Increase In emIgratIon,

434
00:27:00,920 --> 00:27:03,480
wIth over 3,000 leavIng each month,

435
00:27:03,600 --> 00:27:06,353
the hIghest fIgure
In more than a century.

436
00:27:08,560 --> 00:27:12,189
My raiIway journeys across EngIand,
WaIes and the isIand of IreIand,

437
00:27:12,320 --> 00:27:16,438
have brought me at Iast to
the Peace Bridge in Londonderry/Derry,

438
00:27:16,560 --> 00:27:20,439
buiIt as a symboI of hope
to join communities together.

439
00:27:21,640 --> 00:27:25,030
My Bradshaw's says, ''To those
who rush from the cares of business

440
00:27:25,160 --> 00:27:26,878
to feast upon beauty

441
00:27:27,000 --> 00:27:31,630
and to inhaIe the fresh air
of fieIds, Iakes and mountains,

442
00:27:31,760 --> 00:27:34,638
we recommend a trip to IreIand.''

443
00:27:35,320 --> 00:27:39,074
And I wouId onIy add,
that for aII its gifts of nature,

444
00:27:39,200 --> 00:27:42,112
IreIand is made by its peopIe.