1 00:00:06,000 --> 00:00:11,040 In 1840, one man transformed travel in the British Isles. 2 00:00:11,040 --> 00:00:12,800 His name was George Bradshaw 3 00:00:12,800 --> 00:00:17,640 and his railway guides inspired the Victorians to take to the tracks. 4 00:00:19,040 --> 00:00:21,520 Stop by stop, he told them where to travel, 5 00:00:21,520 --> 00:00:24,160 what to see and where to stay. 6 00:00:25,880 --> 00:00:29,880 Now, 170 years later, I'm making a series of journeys 7 00:00:29,880 --> 00:00:32,320 across the length and breadth of these isles 8 00:00:32,320 --> 00:00:35,720 to see what of Bradshaw's Britain remains. 9 00:00:55,800 --> 00:01:01,320 I've embarked on a new journey following in the tracks of Victorian entrepreneurs and travellers 10 00:01:01,320 --> 00:01:07,120 along railways that were the arteries to industrial England's Black Country heartland. 11 00:01:07,120 --> 00:01:10,720 And from there on to the verdant beauties of Wales. 12 00:01:10,720 --> 00:01:14,760 On today's stretch, I'll meet the remarkable craftsmen 13 00:01:14,760 --> 00:01:17,360 behind the Victorian furniture trade... 14 00:01:17,360 --> 00:01:20,280 My dear bodger, I believe that I have made a bodge! 15 00:01:20,280 --> 00:01:24,480 ..discover how George Bradshaw helped to save Britain's canal heritage. 16 00:01:24,480 --> 00:01:27,840 He inspired railway travellers in the 19th century 17 00:01:27,840 --> 00:01:30,000 and canal travellers in the 20th. 18 00:01:30,000 --> 00:01:34,600 And see Shakespeare through the eyes of a 19th century railway tourist. 19 00:01:34,600 --> 00:01:37,080 "Our revels now are ended 20 00:01:37,080 --> 00:01:39,880 "These our actors..." 21 00:01:39,880 --> 00:01:40,920 Bravo! 22 00:01:43,000 --> 00:01:46,840 Starting in the rolling Chiltern Hills, my guidebook will lead me 23 00:01:46,840 --> 00:01:49,080 through Oxfordshire and Warwickshire 24 00:01:49,080 --> 00:01:51,720 towards the industrial centres of the Midlands. 25 00:01:51,720 --> 00:01:55,800 Turning west, I'll experience the stunning Severn Valley railway 26 00:01:55,800 --> 00:01:57,160 en route to mid Wales, 27 00:01:57,160 --> 00:02:00,640 and the Victorian seaside resort of Aberystwyth. 28 00:02:03,280 --> 00:02:06,320 Starting in High Wycombe, this leg takes me north-west 29 00:02:06,320 --> 00:02:09,400 to one of the Victorians' favourite spa towns, 30 00:02:09,400 --> 00:02:12,240 before heading for the heart of Shakespeare country. 31 00:02:16,040 --> 00:02:21,240 My first stop will be High Wycombe, seated deep in the Chiltern Hills. 32 00:02:21,240 --> 00:02:25,320 Bradshaw says, "Wycombe is a borough in Buckinghamshire on the Wyck, 33 00:02:25,320 --> 00:02:29,640 "in vicinity many corn and paper mills." 34 00:02:29,640 --> 00:02:35,920 But the arrival of the trains here in 1854 helped to furnish the town with a new industry. 35 00:02:39,280 --> 00:02:43,120 Trains puffed into High Wycombe courtesy of the Wycombe Railway, 36 00:02:43,120 --> 00:02:47,560 which linked the town to Brunel's famous Great Western. 37 00:02:47,560 --> 00:02:50,400 Today, it's a popular commuter town. 38 00:02:50,400 --> 00:02:52,560 Indeed, even in the 19th century, 39 00:02:52,560 --> 00:02:57,560 the area attracted those who wanted to live at a distance from the "big smoke." 40 00:02:59,760 --> 00:03:03,400 I've always wanted to come to High Wycombe Station. Seriously! 41 00:03:03,400 --> 00:03:06,240 Near here was the country home of one of my great heroes, 42 00:03:06,240 --> 00:03:09,640 the Conservative Prime Minister Benjamin Disraeli, 43 00:03:09,640 --> 00:03:14,560 who had a very good relationship with Queen Victoria, mainly because he was a great flatterer. 44 00:03:14,560 --> 00:03:17,600 By own admission, he laid it on with a trowel. 45 00:03:17,600 --> 00:03:23,000 Queen Victoria did him the extraordinary honour of visiting her Prime Minister at his home. 46 00:03:23,000 --> 00:03:25,760 Imagine how gratified he would have been 47 00:03:25,760 --> 00:03:29,760 when he received Queen Victoria at this very railway station. 48 00:03:32,240 --> 00:03:34,920 When she arrived here in 1877, 49 00:03:34,920 --> 00:03:39,760 the Queen was collected by carriage and driven past an eye-catching display - 50 00:03:39,760 --> 00:03:42,800 a giant arch, constructed from wooden chairs. 51 00:03:45,480 --> 00:03:50,040 It was built in honour of an industry which thrived here in the 19th century 52 00:03:50,040 --> 00:03:53,160 thanks to a very special kind of craftsman. 53 00:03:56,440 --> 00:04:00,280 I'm going down to the woods today to get a big surprise. 54 00:04:00,280 --> 00:04:04,960 The exceptional tale of the Chiltern chair bodgers. 55 00:04:04,960 --> 00:04:06,440 Hello. 56 00:04:06,440 --> 00:04:09,040 Hello. Bit of a stranger in these woods! 57 00:04:09,040 --> 00:04:14,480 Ha! I'm sorry to interrupt your work. I see you are Stuart King of the Bodgers. 58 00:04:14,480 --> 00:04:16,120 Indeed. Yes. What is a bodger? 59 00:04:16,120 --> 00:04:21,120 A bodger historically was a wood turner 60 00:04:21,120 --> 00:04:24,840 who turned chair legs for the High Wycombe chair industry, 61 00:04:24,840 --> 00:04:27,840 mostly working in the woods amongst his raw material, 62 00:04:27,840 --> 00:04:29,360 usually the beech trees. 63 00:04:29,360 --> 00:04:33,040 Why would you come to the woods to do this work? 64 00:04:33,040 --> 00:04:37,880 It's much easier to take my simple equipment like this, the raw material, 65 00:04:37,880 --> 00:04:43,560 than to take very heavy beech logs perhaps many miles to a workshop. 66 00:04:43,560 --> 00:04:47,080 Bodgers have worked here since at least the 18th century, 67 00:04:47,080 --> 00:04:50,080 but their heyday came in the railway age. 68 00:04:50,080 --> 00:04:54,120 Train transport transformed the High Wycombe chair industry. 69 00:04:54,120 --> 00:04:58,200 It opened up new markets, and sped up getting to those markets. 70 00:04:58,200 --> 00:05:01,880 Before the railway, everything was taken to London, the Midlands, 71 00:05:01,880 --> 00:05:04,920 or the south coast by horse and cart. 72 00:05:04,920 --> 00:05:09,520 With the coming of the railways, they were there within hours instead of days. 73 00:05:09,520 --> 00:05:13,840 In the late 19th century, there were 340 men at work in this area. 74 00:05:13,840 --> 00:05:17,480 But by the 1960s, the advent of electric-powered lathes 75 00:05:17,480 --> 00:05:19,920 had seen off the last of the bodgers. 76 00:05:19,920 --> 00:05:24,200 Thankfully, craft historian Stuart King is keeping the skill alive, 77 00:05:24,200 --> 00:05:28,240 which means mastering the bodger's key machine tool. 78 00:05:28,240 --> 00:05:30,880 This is chair bodger's pole lathe. 79 00:05:30,880 --> 00:05:32,040 There's the pole. 80 00:05:32,040 --> 00:05:34,560 So, I'm going to put a hollow here. 81 00:05:41,680 --> 00:05:43,280 That's magnificent! 82 00:05:43,280 --> 00:05:45,480 Do you think you could put one there? No! 83 00:05:45,480 --> 00:05:46,520 THEY LAUGH 84 00:05:47,760 --> 00:05:50,760 You put the tool on the rest first. Yeah. 85 00:05:54,840 --> 00:05:57,600 Have you any idea, when the industry was at its height, 86 00:05:57,600 --> 00:06:00,320 how many chair legs were being turned out? 87 00:06:00,320 --> 00:06:02,160 Oh, enormous numbers. 88 00:06:02,160 --> 00:06:06,440 If we take a pair of chair bodgers, they would produce maybe 89 00:06:06,440 --> 00:06:11,720 three gross a week, a gross being 144 chair legs. 90 00:06:11,720 --> 00:06:14,560 Fantastic output. 91 00:06:14,560 --> 00:06:17,400 My dear bodger, I believe I have made a bodge! 92 00:06:17,400 --> 00:06:19,440 In fact, you've done pretty well. 93 00:06:19,440 --> 00:06:21,880 I have to give you eight out of ten. 94 00:06:21,880 --> 00:06:24,440 The bodger's finished legs and stretchers 95 00:06:24,440 --> 00:06:29,160 were destined to be incorporated into High Wycombe's famous Windsor chairs. 96 00:06:29,160 --> 00:06:33,240 Apparently, the name dates back to before the arrival of the railway, 97 00:06:33,240 --> 00:06:38,280 when the chairs were taken overland to Windsor then by river to London. 98 00:06:38,280 --> 00:06:39,520 But by Bradshaw's day, 99 00:06:39,520 --> 00:06:45,080 over 4,700 chairs a day were being carried out of High Wycombe by rail. 100 00:06:47,040 --> 00:06:51,480 Stuart Linford is amongst the last of the town's chair makers. 101 00:06:51,480 --> 00:06:53,680 Stuart! Hello, sir! 102 00:06:53,680 --> 00:06:55,440 Welcome to Kitchener Works. 103 00:06:55,440 --> 00:06:59,480 Thank you very much. Lovely to be here. Is this a Victorian factory in origin? 104 00:06:59,480 --> 00:07:05,360 Absolutely right. This was built in the 1890s and it is the last working chair making workshop left 105 00:07:05,360 --> 00:07:07,960 in High Wycombe, sadly, out of over 100. 106 00:07:09,400 --> 00:07:12,720 High Wycombe's thriving factories helped meet the demand 107 00:07:12,720 --> 00:07:15,720 from Britain's rapidly expanding middle classes. 108 00:07:15,720 --> 00:07:19,960 They flaunted their newfound status by buying elegant furniture, 109 00:07:19,960 --> 00:07:22,400 and the Windsor chair was a firm favourite. 110 00:07:23,400 --> 00:07:26,840 And this is the famous Windsor chair? Absolutely. 111 00:07:26,840 --> 00:07:29,320 What are its chief characteristics? 112 00:07:29,320 --> 00:07:32,720 Right, it's got a solid wooden seat 113 00:07:32,720 --> 00:07:36,440 into which the back and legs are socketed. 114 00:07:36,440 --> 00:07:39,680 So the axis of construction is the seat. 115 00:07:40,880 --> 00:07:45,360 These days, the legs and stretchers are turned by machine, not by bodgers. 116 00:07:45,360 --> 00:07:51,000 But the method for assembling the Windsor chair remains unchanged since Victorian times. 117 00:07:51,000 --> 00:07:53,640 This, Michael, is the Windsor framing shop, 118 00:07:53,640 --> 00:07:55,960 where we actually make the chairs. 119 00:07:55,960 --> 00:08:01,200 Stuart's going to demonstrate just how quickly a framer could make a chair in Bradshaw's day. 120 00:08:01,200 --> 00:08:03,400 This process is called legging up, 121 00:08:07,880 --> 00:08:09,480 That's a legged-up base. 122 00:08:09,480 --> 00:08:11,600 Now we've got to put the sticks in. 123 00:08:16,240 --> 00:08:19,760 Amazing! This construction kit goes together in moments! 124 00:08:19,760 --> 00:08:24,720 If I just grab... That's it! Hand me that lovely steam-bent component. 125 00:08:24,720 --> 00:08:26,400 That fits in there like that. 126 00:08:29,760 --> 00:08:31,640 There's a finished Windsor chair. 127 00:08:31,640 --> 00:08:32,880 Please have a seat. 128 00:08:34,600 --> 00:08:36,520 Bravo! That's fantastic! 129 00:08:38,880 --> 00:08:42,080 Sadly, there's no time for me to sit around. 130 00:08:42,080 --> 00:08:46,640 I'm now continuing my journey along the Chiltern Mainline, heading north-west. 131 00:08:48,600 --> 00:08:52,480 I've crossed the border from Buckinghamshire into Oxfordshire, 132 00:08:52,480 --> 00:08:56,240 where I'm seeking out the roots of Britain's Victorian prosperity. 133 00:08:58,680 --> 00:09:00,920 Next stop for me is Banbury. 134 00:09:00,920 --> 00:09:05,000 Bradshaw's tells me that the navigable canal from Coventry to Oxford 135 00:09:05,000 --> 00:09:08,760 passes by and is conveyed through a hill by a tunnel 136 00:09:08,760 --> 00:09:11,480 three-quarters of a mile in length. 137 00:09:11,480 --> 00:09:14,800 George Bradshaw began his career by mapping canals, 138 00:09:14,800 --> 00:09:20,000 and he may have been upset that his beloved railways eventually put them out of business. 139 00:09:24,040 --> 00:09:25,720 In the late 18th century, 140 00:09:25,720 --> 00:09:28,960 Britain's canals helped to launch the Industrial Revolution, 141 00:09:28,960 --> 00:09:33,000 transporting coal and other materials faster than ever before. 142 00:09:37,120 --> 00:09:40,320 Banbury soon found itself on an important route 143 00:09:40,320 --> 00:09:41,960 from the Midlands to London. 144 00:09:43,360 --> 00:09:46,760 I've come to Tooley's Historic Boatyard to hear the story 145 00:09:46,760 --> 00:09:49,080 from director Matthew Armitage. 146 00:09:49,080 --> 00:09:50,200 Matthew. 147 00:09:50,200 --> 00:09:52,720 Oh, Michael. Hello. Good to see you. And you. 148 00:09:52,720 --> 00:09:56,960 A boatyard more than 220 years old, that must be some kind of record? 149 00:09:56,960 --> 00:09:59,400 It's something pretty special, isn't it? 150 00:09:59,400 --> 00:10:04,680 The boatyard was built in 1788, around the same time as the Oxford Canal, 151 00:10:04,680 --> 00:10:08,800 one of the major arteries of the fledgling canal system. 152 00:10:08,800 --> 00:10:12,680 It provided the final link in an ambitious "grand cross" of waterways 153 00:10:12,680 --> 00:10:16,120 connecting up the rivers Mersey, Trent, Severn and Thames. 154 00:10:16,120 --> 00:10:19,400 The canal became very busy and was actually the M40 of its time, 155 00:10:19,400 --> 00:10:21,880 transporting goods to London, 156 00:10:21,880 --> 00:10:26,960 pretty much connecting Coventry down to the River Thames at Oxford. 157 00:10:26,960 --> 00:10:30,320 When this canal was thriving, what would the scene here in Banbury have been? 158 00:10:30,320 --> 00:10:35,200 Boats coming from all directions, horses, you'd have had a blacksmith in the forge. 159 00:10:35,200 --> 00:10:41,080 There would have been hammer ringing where they were making horse shoes and parts for boats. 160 00:10:41,080 --> 00:10:47,160 Soon, the Oxford Canal encountered competition, when the Grand Junction canal opened a more direct route 161 00:10:47,160 --> 00:10:51,000 from the Midlands to central London, bypassing the Thames. 162 00:10:51,000 --> 00:10:54,480 But, before long, an even bigger rival emerged. 163 00:10:54,480 --> 00:10:58,160 The canals must have faced intense competition from the railways? 164 00:10:58,160 --> 00:10:59,800 Exactly, that's right. 165 00:10:59,800 --> 00:11:05,880 They actually used the canals to transport all the goods and equipment needed to build the railways. 166 00:11:05,880 --> 00:11:10,120 Once the railways were built, they filled them in afterwards, stopping any competition, 167 00:11:10,120 --> 00:11:14,240 but that wasn't the case for the Oxford Canal. It kept going, which is pretty amazing. 168 00:11:14,240 --> 00:11:16,800 There's something special about the Oxford Canal. 169 00:11:16,800 --> 00:11:18,840 The boats plying the Oxford route 170 00:11:18,840 --> 00:11:21,440 could stop off here in Banbury for repairs, 171 00:11:21,440 --> 00:11:23,360 and this boatyard continued to thrive 172 00:11:23,360 --> 00:11:26,600 through the 19th century and right up to today. 173 00:11:26,600 --> 00:11:31,800 So we're at the bottom of the dry dock now. You can see it's pretty dry. 174 00:11:31,800 --> 00:11:33,880 We've got a boat. We're blacking it. 175 00:11:33,880 --> 00:11:39,320 We're busy. So I think we could do with a hand, really. 176 00:11:39,320 --> 00:11:42,840 These days, it's pleasure boats that come here to be serviced. 177 00:11:42,840 --> 00:11:45,400 After a period of decline in the early 20th century, 178 00:11:45,400 --> 00:11:49,080 Britain's canals had a revival as a place of leisure. 179 00:11:49,080 --> 00:11:51,920 And that story began with a man called Tom Rolt, 180 00:11:51,920 --> 00:11:56,160 who, in 1939, bought himself a dilapidated narrow boat. 181 00:11:56,160 --> 00:11:58,560 He brought his boat to the dry dock. 182 00:11:58,560 --> 00:12:02,640 To this very dry dock? To this very dry dock, and it was repaired by the Tooleys. 183 00:12:02,640 --> 00:12:06,280 He set up his boat and went on a journey around the waterways, 184 00:12:06,280 --> 00:12:10,840 and during this time, he wrote a book "Narrow Boat", which became very, very famous. 185 00:12:10,840 --> 00:12:15,360 It was pretty much a catalyst for setting up the Inland Waterways Association 186 00:12:15,360 --> 00:12:19,400 which campaigned for the canals, bringing them up to what they are today. 187 00:12:19,400 --> 00:12:22,040 So, Rolt's book set people travelling on the canals 188 00:12:22,040 --> 00:12:25,480 in the same way as my Bradshaw's has set me travelling on the railways? 189 00:12:25,480 --> 00:12:29,040 Yes, very much so. In fact, I've got a copy here, and there's something 190 00:12:29,040 --> 00:12:31,840 here which I think you might find rather interesting. 191 00:12:31,840 --> 00:12:34,840 Have a look at just that point there. 192 00:12:34,840 --> 00:12:39,280 "A large-scale map of the canal system hung on the wall of my bedroom, 193 00:12:39,280 --> 00:12:42,760 "and I would lie abed, planning imaginary journeys. 194 00:12:42,760 --> 00:12:45,920 "I had also acquired a second-hand copy of a book 195 00:12:45,920 --> 00:12:49,320 "which is indispensable to the canal traveller. 196 00:12:49,320 --> 00:12:54,960 "Bradshaw's Guide to the Canals and Navigable Rivers of England and Wales." 197 00:12:54,960 --> 00:12:59,160 Good old George Bradshaw! He inspired railway travellers in the 19th century 198 00:12:59,160 --> 00:13:01,200 and canal travellers in the 20th. 199 00:13:02,240 --> 00:13:06,040 It's heartening to think that Bradshaw helped preserve the canals 200 00:13:06,040 --> 00:13:07,920 for us all to enjoy. 201 00:13:09,360 --> 00:13:11,960 Having brushed up my skills in the boatyard, 202 00:13:11,960 --> 00:13:16,440 I'm now in search of refreshment worthy of a Victorian bargeman. 203 00:13:18,000 --> 00:13:22,840 Bradshaw's informs me that Banbury is famous for cakes, cheese and ale. 204 00:13:22,840 --> 00:13:25,400 "The cakes being sold in the metropolis." 205 00:13:25,400 --> 00:13:31,440 After the day of physical exertion that I've had, I hope they're still for sale in Banbury. 206 00:13:31,440 --> 00:13:34,720 I've never heard of Banbury cakes, but in Victorian times, 207 00:13:34,720 --> 00:13:38,120 the trains carried this local delicacy all over the country. 208 00:13:39,360 --> 00:13:40,680 Back in Bradshaw's day, 209 00:13:40,680 --> 00:13:44,880 Philip Brown's ancestors owned a thriving bakery on this street. 210 00:13:44,880 --> 00:13:46,880 We've stopped outside the pub. 211 00:13:46,880 --> 00:13:49,200 Cakes and ale seem to go together in Banbury. 212 00:13:49,200 --> 00:13:52,000 Yes, they certainly appear that way. 213 00:13:52,000 --> 00:13:55,840 There were 81 alehouses in Banbury and seven bakeries. 214 00:13:55,840 --> 00:13:58,000 Four in this street, as it happens, 215 00:13:58,000 --> 00:14:01,200 one of which ours, on the opposite side road to The Reindeer. 216 00:14:01,200 --> 00:14:03,040 And what happened to it? 217 00:14:03,040 --> 00:14:08,640 I'm afraid we sold it 1967 because it needed a lot of modernisation 218 00:14:08,640 --> 00:14:11,480 and we hadn't got the money to do it. 219 00:14:11,480 --> 00:14:14,960 It was knocked down by the developers in 1968. 220 00:14:14,960 --> 00:14:17,520 Shame. But do you remember it the way it used to be? 221 00:14:17,520 --> 00:14:18,840 Oh, very much so. Yes. 222 00:14:18,840 --> 00:14:24,360 The front part of it was quite a delight and people took a great interest in it. 223 00:14:24,360 --> 00:14:26,520 Although the bakery's long gone, 224 00:14:26,520 --> 00:14:29,200 Philip still makes and sells the cakes. 225 00:14:29,200 --> 00:14:33,680 The exact recipe, thought to have been brought back from the Crusades in medieval times, 226 00:14:33,680 --> 00:14:35,480 is a closely-guarded secret. 227 00:14:35,480 --> 00:14:38,520 But he's brought a sample to my hotel for me to try. 228 00:14:39,960 --> 00:14:42,360 Time to find out what all the fuss is about. 229 00:14:46,200 --> 00:14:48,240 Oh, yes! 230 00:14:48,240 --> 00:14:51,080 Buttery, spicy, fruity. 231 00:14:51,080 --> 00:14:52,520 Full of eastern promise. 232 00:14:52,520 --> 00:14:54,760 That's what they're like. 233 00:14:54,760 --> 00:14:59,840 A delicious end to a long day of Victorian railway travel. 234 00:15:07,360 --> 00:15:10,800 An excellent night's sleep thanks to the Banbury cakes. 235 00:15:10,800 --> 00:15:12,640 Or was it the Banbury ale? 236 00:15:14,800 --> 00:15:17,840 I'm now continuing my journey through central England, 237 00:15:17,840 --> 00:15:21,400 and my next destination was clearly a Victorian favourite. 238 00:15:31,480 --> 00:15:33,640 My first stop is Leamington Spa, 239 00:15:33,640 --> 00:15:38,040 which my Bradshaw's says is now, "though still small and picturesque, 240 00:15:38,040 --> 00:15:41,760 "become a large, handsome town, better paved, 241 00:15:41,760 --> 00:15:46,080 "lighted and regulated than any other town of its size." 242 00:15:46,080 --> 00:15:51,040 "Few places possess so many attractions as this highly-favoured town." 243 00:15:51,040 --> 00:15:53,040 There must be something in the water! 244 00:15:57,920 --> 00:16:01,560 Leamington Spa owed its fame to its mineral water springs, 245 00:16:01,560 --> 00:16:03,720 which, from the late 1700s, 246 00:16:03,720 --> 00:16:07,280 were recommended as a cure for all sorts of ills. 247 00:16:07,280 --> 00:16:09,560 Morning. Thank you. Thank you. 248 00:16:10,920 --> 00:16:14,160 By the 1850s, the railways were bringing wealthy Victorians here 249 00:16:14,160 --> 00:16:15,360 in their droves. 250 00:16:21,440 --> 00:16:27,000 The curative properties of the waters of Leamington Spa are, according to my Bradshaw's, 251 00:16:27,000 --> 00:16:33,960 "resorted to by vast numbers of invalids and a constant succession of fashionable visitors." 252 00:16:33,960 --> 00:16:35,920 But I was struck by this reference. 253 00:16:35,920 --> 00:16:41,200 "Amongst Leamington's numerous attractions are a splendid tennis court and racquet ground 254 00:16:41,200 --> 00:16:44,240 "attached to an elegant pile of buildings." 255 00:16:44,240 --> 00:16:46,840 I think a visit there would serve me well. 256 00:16:53,800 --> 00:16:57,840 The Leamington Spa Tennis Court Club was founded in 1846 257 00:16:57,840 --> 00:17:00,880 when lawn tennis as we know it had yet to be invented. 258 00:17:02,920 --> 00:17:04,040 Mark. Good morning. 259 00:17:04,040 --> 00:17:08,080 Morning! Welcome to Leamington Tennis Court Club. Thank you. Come through. 260 00:17:08,080 --> 00:17:11,240 Very spacious, and very Victorian. 261 00:17:11,240 --> 00:17:13,880 The Victorian gentlemen of leisure who came here 262 00:17:13,880 --> 00:17:16,720 played the ancient indoor game of "real tennis". 263 00:17:16,720 --> 00:17:20,200 Marc Seigneur is one of a select few who play it today. 264 00:17:20,200 --> 00:17:23,640 A real tennis court is just immensely different 265 00:17:23,640 --> 00:17:26,000 from a lawn tennis court, isn't it? 266 00:17:26,000 --> 00:17:29,240 What are all these lines about and the sloping roofs? 267 00:17:29,240 --> 00:17:33,600 The lines are what we call the chases, and that's the complicated bit of the game. 268 00:17:33,600 --> 00:17:35,880 The sloping roofs are called penthouses, 269 00:17:35,880 --> 00:17:40,320 and they would have dated back from the cloisters because the monks played. 270 00:17:40,320 --> 00:17:45,040 So this is very historic game, but I've seen a real tennis court at Hampton Court. 271 00:17:45,040 --> 00:17:50,040 Yes. Henry VIII would have played, Henry V before him. 272 00:17:50,040 --> 00:17:52,840 It dates back from the 12th, 13th century. 273 00:17:52,840 --> 00:17:55,680 Henry V, in fact, went to war because of it. 274 00:17:55,680 --> 00:17:57,600 Went to war because of tennis? 275 00:17:57,600 --> 00:18:04,120 Well, the French dauphin sent him a box of balls when Henry V claimed the throne of France 276 00:18:04,120 --> 00:18:09,960 and the message going with it was, play tennis with the boys, 277 00:18:09,960 --> 00:18:12,360 leave war to the men. 278 00:18:12,360 --> 00:18:15,000 Mm! An insult. 279 00:18:15,000 --> 00:18:16,200 For the Victorians, 280 00:18:16,200 --> 00:18:19,720 this rich history served to make real tennis irresistible, 281 00:18:19,720 --> 00:18:22,120 sparking a revival of the game. 282 00:18:22,120 --> 00:18:25,160 When lawn tennis burst upon the scene in the 1870s, 283 00:18:25,160 --> 00:18:26,920 some of this club's members 284 00:18:26,920 --> 00:18:28,840 helped to draw up the rules. 285 00:18:28,840 --> 00:18:32,280 But the older sport wasn't forgotten. 286 00:18:32,280 --> 00:18:33,720 So that's our equipment. 287 00:18:35,360 --> 00:18:38,520 Ooh! These feel quite different from tennis balls. 288 00:18:38,520 --> 00:18:40,240 Yes, this is what we call a pilota. 289 00:18:41,840 --> 00:18:43,240 Hardly bounces at all. 290 00:18:43,240 --> 00:18:44,680 And... 291 00:18:44,680 --> 00:18:46,480 these are quite heavy. 292 00:18:46,480 --> 00:18:48,960 Yes, there are different weights and different balances, 293 00:18:48,960 --> 00:18:53,200 but they're all made out of wood, with very taut strings, 294 00:18:53,200 --> 00:18:58,000 much tauter than the lawn tennis version, and a very small sweet spot, 295 00:18:58,000 --> 00:19:00,920 so it's actually quite difficult to strike the ball. 296 00:19:00,920 --> 00:19:02,960 I see! 297 00:19:02,960 --> 00:19:04,200 Right. 298 00:19:04,200 --> 00:19:07,440 Nonetheless, would you like to show me how the game is played? 299 00:19:07,440 --> 00:19:08,880 Love to. 300 00:19:08,880 --> 00:19:12,760 Modern tennis owes some terminology to the medieval game, 301 00:19:12,760 --> 00:19:17,160 such as "service", which comes from when servants used to throw the ball into play. 302 00:19:17,160 --> 00:19:19,000 Swing slowly. 303 00:19:19,000 --> 00:19:20,760 Swing slowly! 304 00:19:20,760 --> 00:19:24,320 The basics might be straightforward, but the game gets trickier 305 00:19:24,320 --> 00:19:28,360 when your opponent starts to bounce balls off the wall. 306 00:19:28,360 --> 00:19:32,640 I'm going to serve onto this sloping roof, which we call "the penthouse", 307 00:19:32,640 --> 00:19:35,600 and you'll have to try and hit it. 308 00:19:35,600 --> 00:19:36,680 OK. 309 00:19:42,760 --> 00:19:45,520 Good! You're too good at this. 310 00:19:50,680 --> 00:19:51,720 Well done! 311 00:19:52,920 --> 00:19:56,160 Thank you, Mark. It's a pleasure. 312 00:19:56,160 --> 00:20:00,080 I feel you've not only introduced me to a sport but to history. 313 00:20:00,080 --> 00:20:03,360 The sport of kings. I mean, real tennis, royal tennis. 314 00:20:03,360 --> 00:20:06,760 Yes, you're welcome and membership is still open. 315 00:20:06,760 --> 00:20:07,880 Thank you very much. 316 00:20:09,560 --> 00:20:12,080 I'd love to linger to develop my backhand, 317 00:20:12,080 --> 00:20:14,880 but it's time for me to take my last train for today. 318 00:20:16,600 --> 00:20:20,720 I'm making a short hop south-west, on the trail of a national icon. 319 00:20:22,600 --> 00:20:26,640 My Bradshaw's provides a clue as to my next destination. 320 00:20:26,640 --> 00:20:30,720 "Where his first infant lays sweet Shakespeare sung. 321 00:20:30,720 --> 00:20:33,920 "Where the last accents faltered on his tongue 322 00:20:33,920 --> 00:20:37,840 "and to which the genius of one man has given immortality." 323 00:20:39,400 --> 00:20:41,480 In other words, Stratford-Upon-Avon, 324 00:20:41,480 --> 00:20:44,760 which, by any other name, would be as sweet. 325 00:20:44,760 --> 00:20:48,200 The entry for Stratford in my Victorian guidebook dedicates 326 00:20:48,200 --> 00:20:52,560 nearly two whole pages to the Bard, and judging by this busy train, 327 00:20:52,560 --> 00:20:55,760 he's just as popular with modern railway tourists. 328 00:20:55,760 --> 00:20:58,960 Are you headed for Stratford? Yes, I am. 329 00:20:58,960 --> 00:21:02,520 Would I be right in detecting you're not from UK? I'm not. 330 00:21:02,520 --> 00:21:05,400 Where are you from? I'm from the United States of America. 331 00:21:05,400 --> 00:21:07,720 Where are you from? I am from Peru. 332 00:21:07,720 --> 00:21:11,600 Shakespeare is quite well known in Peru? Yes. Can you do any quotations? 333 00:21:13,400 --> 00:21:15,600 Um... "Ser o no ser?" 334 00:21:15,600 --> 00:21:17,240 "To be or not to be?" 335 00:21:17,240 --> 00:21:18,440 Yes. 336 00:21:18,440 --> 00:21:20,520 "To be..." "To be..." 337 00:21:20,520 --> 00:21:22,320 Do you know how that finishes? 338 00:21:22,320 --> 00:21:25,320 Um, "To be or not to be." 339 00:21:25,320 --> 00:21:27,000 There we are! 340 00:21:27,000 --> 00:21:31,040 Romeo! Romeo! Where art thou, Romeo? 341 00:21:31,040 --> 00:21:32,280 Any more? 342 00:21:32,280 --> 00:21:34,040 Um... 343 00:21:34,040 --> 00:21:35,720 No! 344 00:21:37,360 --> 00:21:40,360 It seems these days Stratford attracts Shakespeare pilgrims 345 00:21:40,360 --> 00:21:42,640 from across the world. 346 00:21:42,640 --> 00:21:44,840 There's no option but to join the throng. 347 00:21:46,920 --> 00:21:49,760 The crowds getting off this train are absolutely amazing 348 00:21:49,760 --> 00:21:51,800 and it's like the Tower of Babel - there are 349 00:21:51,800 --> 00:21:54,040 so many languages being spoken on this train 350 00:21:54,040 --> 00:21:57,440 and they're all here for a man who died 400 years ago. 351 00:21:59,640 --> 00:22:02,320 Shakespeare's emergence as a global icon was 352 00:22:02,320 --> 00:22:04,760 well on the way in Bradshaw's day. 353 00:22:04,760 --> 00:22:07,800 The Victorian's passion for the immortal poet shines 354 00:22:07,800 --> 00:22:09,280 through in my guidebook. 355 00:22:09,280 --> 00:22:11,520 It describes how in Stratford, 356 00:22:11,520 --> 00:22:15,440 "we tread the very ground that he has toured a thousand times 357 00:22:15,440 --> 00:22:20,800 and feel as he has felt." And to do just that, it sends readers 358 00:22:20,800 --> 00:22:24,920 to the old-fashioned, timbered house where Shakespeare was born. 359 00:22:24,920 --> 00:22:28,640 Here, Victorian admirers went to extreme lengths to preserve 360 00:22:28,640 --> 00:22:31,440 Stratford's Shakespearean heritage. 361 00:22:31,440 --> 00:22:33,720 I'm hearing this story from Dr Anjna Chauhan. 362 00:22:35,440 --> 00:22:36,840 My Bradshaw's tells me 363 00:22:36,840 --> 00:22:39,880 that Shakespeare's birthplace, after some changes and "the risk 364 00:22:39,880 --> 00:22:43,760 even of being transferred as it stood to America by a calculating 365 00:22:43,760 --> 00:22:48,520 speculator, was at last purchased by the Shakespeare Club and adopted by 366 00:22:48,520 --> 00:22:52,280 the government". So, apparently, the house was saved in Victorian times. 367 00:22:52,280 --> 00:22:53,360 Yes, that's true. 368 00:22:53,360 --> 00:22:56,280 It was going to be purchased by an American businessman 369 00:22:56,280 --> 00:22:58,800 and showman, PT Barnum. 370 00:22:58,800 --> 00:23:02,040 Now obviously people in England got very angry about this 371 00:23:02,040 --> 00:23:04,520 and they decided to form the Shakespeare Committee, 372 00:23:04,520 --> 00:23:06,880 a birthday committee, and purchase the birthplace. 373 00:23:06,880 --> 00:23:09,760 As industrialisation swept Britain, 374 00:23:09,760 --> 00:23:13,440 nostalgia for the past grew and, with it, a desire to preserve 375 00:23:13,440 --> 00:23:15,080 historic sites like this, 376 00:23:15,080 --> 00:23:19,960 but Shakespeare had an extra-special resonance for the Victorians. 377 00:23:19,960 --> 00:23:23,640 Shakespeare was somebody people could look up to as a man. 378 00:23:23,640 --> 00:23:28,320 He transformed from somebody who was just the son of a glove-maker 379 00:23:28,320 --> 00:23:29,880 in a market town 380 00:23:29,880 --> 00:23:32,080 and he became a prolific playwrighter 381 00:23:32,080 --> 00:23:34,480 and a great businessman in his own right 382 00:23:34,480 --> 00:23:37,800 and this was incredibly admirable in the period 383 00:23:37,800 --> 00:23:42,960 of industrialisation, of capitalism as well, of self-improvement. 384 00:23:42,960 --> 00:23:46,760 As well as applauding Shakespeare's example of diligence, 19th-century 385 00:23:46,760 --> 00:23:50,640 audiences interpreted the place in a particularly Victorian way. 386 00:23:50,640 --> 00:23:54,600 They were great pieces of literature but they were also considered 387 00:23:54,600 --> 00:23:57,520 great moral tales, cautionary tales as well... Mmm. 388 00:23:57,520 --> 00:24:00,560 ..stories about justice, about mercy, about what's right 389 00:24:00,560 --> 00:24:02,960 and what's wrong, what's good, what's bad. 390 00:24:02,960 --> 00:24:08,440 From 1860, high-minded Victorian visitors could arrive here by rail. 391 00:24:08,440 --> 00:24:11,920 Down in the birthplace archive, documents show that trains 392 00:24:11,920 --> 00:24:15,160 brought Stratford within reach of day-trippers. 393 00:24:15,160 --> 00:24:21,880 We have a record of the rail journeys to and from Stratford-upon-Avon 394 00:24:21,880 --> 00:24:25,720 and the rail fares during the tercentenary of Shakespeare's birth, 395 00:24:25,720 --> 00:24:32,240 so 1864, to celebrate 300 years after the birth of William Shakespeare. 396 00:24:32,240 --> 00:24:35,200 The highlight of the archive is this edition of Shakespeare's 397 00:24:35,200 --> 00:24:40,560 complete works, published in 1623, brought here in the 19th century. 398 00:24:40,560 --> 00:24:44,400 Now, without this, this particular text, 399 00:24:44,400 --> 00:24:48,920 we'd be missing 18 of Shakespeare's plays, so it's very, very important. 400 00:24:48,920 --> 00:24:53,160 We'd be missing plays such as The Tempest, Macbeth and Twelfth Night. 401 00:24:53,160 --> 00:24:57,800 I've never felt closer to the Bard than at this moment. 402 00:24:57,800 --> 00:24:59,440 That's wonderful to hear. 403 00:24:59,440 --> 00:25:02,920 At first, railway tourists came to Stratford to see Shakespeare's 404 00:25:02,920 --> 00:25:03,920 birthplace and grave, 405 00:25:03,920 --> 00:25:08,880 but from 1879 they could also attend performances of his plays here. 406 00:25:08,880 --> 00:25:13,280 That was when the curtain rose in Stratford's first successful 407 00:25:13,280 --> 00:25:17,120 theatre dedicated to the Bard, and its modern-day descendant 408 00:25:17,120 --> 00:25:20,160 is the recently-renovated Royal Shakespeare Theatre. 409 00:25:22,000 --> 00:25:26,040 Before I leave town, I'm taking a tour with actor Jonathan Slinger. 410 00:25:27,480 --> 00:25:31,360 We walk through here. I make an entrance down this lift 411 00:25:31,360 --> 00:25:38,600 in Twelfth Night. This is a fantastic space now, isn't it? It's stunning. 412 00:25:38,600 --> 00:25:40,280 Now, in Victorian times, 413 00:25:40,280 --> 00:25:43,160 I imagine nearly all theatres would have been... 414 00:25:43,160 --> 00:25:47,160 The stage would have been behind an arch, proscenium, 415 00:25:47,160 --> 00:25:49,040 and now thrust out into the audience. 416 00:25:49,040 --> 00:25:52,880 Exactly right. I much prefer this, 417 00:25:52,880 --> 00:25:59,160 because I very strongly believe that Shakespeare wrote his plays 418 00:25:59,160 --> 00:26:02,400 with audience participation in mind. 419 00:26:02,400 --> 00:26:06,080 A lot of the text that you can read sometimes lends itself to 420 00:26:06,080 --> 00:26:09,720 the kind of audience participation that we don't get any 421 00:26:09,720 --> 00:26:13,280 more, except at panto, but in Shakespeare's day, there would 422 00:26:13,280 --> 00:26:16,320 have been a lot more heckling going on of the actors on stage. 423 00:26:16,320 --> 00:26:19,920 'It's not just the staging that's changed since Bradshaw's day, 424 00:26:19,920 --> 00:26:22,120 'acting techniques have moved on too.' 425 00:26:22,120 --> 00:26:26,720 There was much more of an emphasis on stance and gesture, 426 00:26:26,720 --> 00:26:28,200 so that would have been... 427 00:26:28,200 --> 00:26:33,280 So if we take a line, if we take a bit from, The Tempest, let's say. 428 00:26:36,760 --> 00:26:38,720 Our revels now are ended 429 00:26:38,720 --> 00:26:43,880 These our actors, as I foretold you 430 00:26:43,880 --> 00:26:50,960 Were all spirits and are melted into air, into thin air. 431 00:26:50,960 --> 00:26:51,800 Bravo! 432 00:26:51,800 --> 00:26:54,240 And how are you delivering it today? 433 00:26:54,240 --> 00:27:00,520 Well, today would be a much more naturalistic affair, so... 434 00:27:00,520 --> 00:27:01,840 Our revels now are ended 435 00:27:03,960 --> 00:27:07,000 These our actors, as I foretold you 436 00:27:07,000 --> 00:27:13,160 Were all spirits and are melted into air, into thin air. 437 00:27:13,160 --> 00:27:17,400 Very moving indeed, so I've been privileged to hear one version 438 00:27:17,400 --> 00:27:20,200 and George Bradshaw would have heard another. 439 00:27:22,040 --> 00:27:24,720 On today's journey, my guidebook has shown me 440 00:27:24,720 --> 00:27:28,480 how our 19th-century forebears helped to shape many 441 00:27:28,480 --> 00:27:32,600 things, from furniture to our appreciation of theatre. 442 00:27:35,000 --> 00:27:38,360 Ever since I sat in that Windsor chair in High Wycombe, 443 00:27:38,360 --> 00:27:41,040 Queen Victoria has never been far from my mind. 444 00:27:41,040 --> 00:27:42,160 During her reign, 445 00:27:42,160 --> 00:27:47,040 there was a revival of interest in both real tennis and in Shakespeare. 446 00:27:47,040 --> 00:27:49,960 Having been bashed about the tennis court, I've now trodden 447 00:27:49,960 --> 00:27:54,800 the boards in Stratford-upon-Avon, so all's well that ends well. 448 00:27:58,480 --> 00:27:59,760 On the next stretch, 449 00:27:59,760 --> 00:28:03,800 I'll learn how railways helped pen-making to boom in Birmingham... 450 00:28:03,800 --> 00:28:07,240 It was a trade that brought writing to the masses really. 451 00:28:07,240 --> 00:28:09,000 ..hear the chilling tale 452 00:28:09,000 --> 00:28:13,160 of one of 19th-century Britain's most notorious murderers... 453 00:28:13,160 --> 00:28:15,600 30,000 turned up for his execution. 454 00:28:15,600 --> 00:28:19,080 They had special trains laid on from Bristol, from Manchester 455 00:28:19,080 --> 00:28:20,320 and from London. 456 00:28:20,320 --> 00:28:24,400 ..and sample the delicacies concocted in a Victorian kitchen. 457 00:28:24,400 --> 00:28:27,920 Look at that, wow! That's got a real wobble factor on it, hasn't it? 458 00:28:43,240 --> 00:28:45,320 Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd