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In 1840, one man transformed
travel in the British Isles.

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His name was George Bradshaw

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and his railway guides inspired the
Victorians to take to the tracks.

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Stop by stop,
he told them where to travel,

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what to see and where to stay.

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Now, 170 years later,
I'm making a series of journeys

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across the length and breadth
of these isles

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to see what of Bradshaw's Britain
remains.

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I'm at the halfway point of my
journey from Portsmouth to Grimsby

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and today, I'm going to linger in
one of Britain's greatest ports -

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London.

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Our capital, my home city.

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On today's journey,

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I'll learn how volunteer Victorian
firefighters liked a tipple.

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To encourage people to come and help
pump the fire engine,

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insurance brigades would either take
kegs of beer with them to a fire

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or they would take beer tokens
with them.

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I'll discover how even 19th-century
sewage pumps

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were a celebration of design.

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Open this valve here...

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And I'll put in a shift at the
oldest fish market in Britain.

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It's getting boxed up. The man wants
his fish today, not the weekend.

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HE CHUCKLES

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Using my Bradshaw's guide,

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I began this journey
on the Hampshire coast,

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and have travelled up
through Surrey to London.

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I will then push north east
to Cambridgeshire,

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alighting finally in Grimsby,
on the Humber Estuary.

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The third leg of my journey
starts in Victoria,

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heads east to Southwark,
on to Canary Wharf,

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and finally,
downstream to Abbey Wood.

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On previous railway journeys to
London, I've noted Bradshaw's view,

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which reflected the Victorian
outlook on our capital.

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"London is the capital
of the civilised world,

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"the largest mass of human life,
of arts, science, wealth, power,

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"and architecture that exists.

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"Our gigantic metropolis
is enabled by the Thames

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"to carry on a water communication
with every part of the globe."

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And, on this trip, I intend
to focus on Old Father Thames.

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Today's leg of my journey
starts at Victoria Station,

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which began in 1862
as two distinct sites -

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one serving Kent
and the other, Sussex.

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In the early 1900s,

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the brick and stone structures
were beautifully rebuilt,

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'and, in the 1920s, it became the
single station that we know today.'

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Victoria is my local station,

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but I shed a tear every time
I come here,

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because the Victorian architecture
has become so cluttered

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with illuminated advertising
hoardings and shopping centres

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and what they need to do
is sweep the lot away

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and reveal the beauty
of the original brick and stone.

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Leaving the station behind, I'm
taking a short stroll to the Thames

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to visit one of the most imposing
Victorian buildings

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on the riverbank - Tate Britain,

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a gallery containing the world's
greatest collection of British art,

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including works by Blake, Constable,
Gainsborough, Stubbs and Turner.

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But, according to my Bradshaw's,
this site at Millbank

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was once for those who'd had brushes
with the law.

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Archivist Krzysztof Cieszkowski
should know more.

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Hello, Krzysztof. Hello, Michael.
Very pleased to meet you.

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It's lovely to be back. Yes.

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My Bradshaw's guide refers to
a penitentiary being on this site.

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Do you know anything about that?

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Yes, it was variously called Millbank
Prison and Millbank Penitentiary.

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It was a prison for convicts
who were being sent to Australia.

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And what brought about
a gallery on this site?

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Well, there was no gallery
of British art

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in the way that there was,
for example, in Paris.

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It was only when Henry Tate, in 1889,
offered his collection

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of contemporary British art
to the nation

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that the idea started
to become a reality.

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Who was Henry Tate?

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He was born in Lancashire,

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he made his fortune, first of all,
in the grocery business

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then, in sugar refining.

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This is the Tate that later
became Tate and Lyle?

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Yes, he was the most important
sugar refiner

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and he introduced the sugar cube
to this country.

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This is a volume of correspondence

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relating to the opening
of the gallery.

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Here is a letter from the Queen's
Secretary, Arthur Bigge,

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thanking Henry Tate for the
invitation and for an album

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in which all the works in the Tate
collection were reproduced.

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They're wonderful documents.

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Henry Tate offered his £75,000
collection to the nation,

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but the press snobbishly complained

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that "a mere sugar boiler should
impose his taste."

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So Tate spent £80,000 on building
his own gallery,

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which contained many works
by the Pre-Raphaelite Brotherhood,

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an art movement founded in 1848
by Dante Gabriel Rossetti,

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William Holman Hunt

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and John Everett Millais.

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To create work that explored social,
moral and political issues

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in a way that was new
and often shocking,

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the Brotherhood took characters
from literature and history

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and paid homage to the perfect
realism of their hero Raphael

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by painting in the open air,
directly from nature

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and not in a studio from sketches.

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Curator Alison Smith believes that
their art relied on train travel.

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Well, now you're bringing me towards
a very famous picture -

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Millais' Ophelia,

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and you tell me this has something
to do with the railways.

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That's right, this is because
the Pre-Raphaelite Brotherhood

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was formed exactly at the time

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when the railway network was
developing in and around London.

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He worked on this for about five,
six months,

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from about July to November 1851.

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This was a place called Cuddington,
near Malden,

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it's near Ewell, in Surrey.

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And so, he would have travelled
to Ewell

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from either London Bridge
or Waterloo.

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It's slightly disillusioning telling
me now that it was painted

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near the suburban railway stations,
of course, of the mid 19th century.

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It wasn't exactly near the suburban
railway stations.

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He opted to stay in a rambling
farmhouse called Worcester Park Farm

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and from that, each day, he would
walk about four miles to the site

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and he, in fact, encountered lots
of problems when he painted this.

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He was once arrested
for trespassing,

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he was attacked by sheep
and a bull...

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But it was fundamentally
important to him

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to paint nature in nature, not to do
it from sketches back in the studio.

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Yes, the key point is that this was
painted en plein air, in nature.

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Are there other examples here
of Pre-Raphaelites

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who were using the train
to get to nature?

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We could look at Hunt, who worked in
this area, in Ewell, with Millais.

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We've got another painting by him
produced the following year

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which was Strayed Sheep,
Our English Coasts,

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which he painted near Hastings.

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What's the importance
of the Pre-Raphaelites?

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The Pre-Raphaelites are probably the
first modern art movement in Britain

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in that they really wanted
to break with the past

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and the fact that British artists
had been indebted to European old
masters.

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And they wanted to sort of paint
in a new radical way

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which really reflected modernity.

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In Bradshaw's day,

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one of the most efficient ways of
navigating London was by river.

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'He might have taken
an elegant paddle steamer.

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'I'm impressed by
this state-of-the-art catamaran.'

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I'm now using a Bradshaw's guide
to London, dated 1862.

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I'm on the boat that takes us
from the Tate Britain

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to the Tate Modern Galleries.

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My Bradshaw's says,
"For the sake of variety,

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"we shall proceed to the journey
by water,

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"which, of a fine day,
is not only the most agreeable,

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"but furnishing an excellent
opportunity

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"of seeing the scenery
of the Thames."

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And to me, of course, the finest
piece of scenery on the Thames

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is the Houses of Parliament.

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The river's popularity
as a transport route

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may have dwindled in modern times,

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but, even on its choppiest days,

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there are some who remain loyal.

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Oh, hello.

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HE CHUCKLES

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Are you enjoying your trip
on the river? Certainly am.

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Would you say,
as my Bradshaw's guide says,

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that seeing London from the river
is really the best way?

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Lovely way, it really is,
there's so much to see,

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the history is there,

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the way the town, city has developed
over the years. It's all there.

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Nowadays, we use the river
so little.

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Yeah, it's underused. I'm sure, yes.

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We've also arrived
at our destination,

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so we better make sure
we don't get left on.

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You better get off.

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THEY LAUGH

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Thank you. Bye!

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From Bankside Pier,

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home of the magnificent
Shakespeare's Globe Theatre,

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I'm heading inland to Southwark

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to visit a place that
was highly significant

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for the safety
of Victorian Londoners.

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My Bradshaw's guide is very
concerned about fire in London.

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"Sometimes, as many as five or six
occur in one night.

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"To guard against the loss of life,

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"the Royal Society For The
Preservation Of Life From Fire

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"have been most active
in establishing stations,

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"where fire escapes,
with conductors,

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"are ready to be called
upon the first alarm.

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"No society more rigidly deserves
encouragement."

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It's extraordinary to think

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that our capital city had
no publicly funded fire brigade.

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With its origins dating
back to 1828,

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The Royal Society For The
Preservation Of Life From Fire

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placed mobile fire escape ladders
on street corners at night.

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'I'm hoping Jane Rugg, Curator of
The London Fire Brigade Museum,

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'can tell me who was
actually fighting fires

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'in London at the time.'

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Hello! Hello, there. I'm Michael.
I'm Jane, nice to meet you.
Very good to see you. Come on in.

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So when my Bradshaw's guides
were written,

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at the beginning of the 1860s,

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what sort of fire provision
was there in London?

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We didn't have a public service
until 1866,

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so, before that time, you would have
had insurance brigades

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that made up the London Fire Engine
Establishment,

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so just like house insurance today,

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you insured your property and then,
if your house was on fire,

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the insurance would send
their fire brigade

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and they would come along
to put the fire out for you.

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And obviously,
it wasn't a fair system,

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not everybody could afford
to have the fire brigades,

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it was not as a public service
is now.

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The 1666 Great Fire Of London,

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which started in a baker's shop
in the aptly named Pudding Lane,

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destroying over 13,000 homes,
is well remembered in history.

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Less well known is that,
almost two centuries later,

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the 1861 Tooley Street Fire
was a catalyst

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to the formation of a
publicly funded brigade.

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Firefighters from all over
the country attended the blaze,

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but couldn't cope with an inferno
that started in a warehouse,

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and burnt for two weeks.

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Five years later, The Metropolitan
Fire Brigade was formed.

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Chief Officer, Captain Sir Eyre
Massey Shaw,

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inherited the insurance
brigade's equipment.

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You have wonderful machines here,
what is this one?

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This is an example of a manual pump
inherited by the public service.

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The arms open out,
all the way out,

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and then, the other one comes out
the other way,

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and you'd have ten people
on this side, ten on the other

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and you would pump up and down

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working the pistons inside
to push the water out.

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But you can only pump for five
minutes before you're too exhausted

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and you need to swap
with somebody else.

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I'm not surprised, I felt exhausted
just standing there.

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To encourage people walking past to
come and help pump the fire engine,

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the insurance brigades would
either take kegs of beer with them
to a fire

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or they would take
beer tokens with them,

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so you can see an example
of a beer token.

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You would be given it
once you'd helped pump,

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and then, you could go
to your local public house

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and exchange it for a drink.

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And they did that because,
as you can imagine,

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with kegs of beer at a fire,

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people were more interested
in drinking the beer

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than they were in pumping
the fire engine.

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So did they have
lots of drunken volunteers?

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00:13:14,920 --> 00:13:18,000
They could have done, yes, there was
the potential, so that's why...

238
00:13:18,000 --> 00:13:20,640
Sometimes, they would take cash
with them to a fire,

239
00:13:20,640 --> 00:13:23,760
but, in the end, the pumping tokens
seemed to work the best.

240
00:13:23,760 --> 00:13:25,600
So what else can you show me?

241
00:13:25,600 --> 00:13:27,680
This is an example
of a steam fire engine,

242
00:13:27,680 --> 00:13:30,160
so we moved from the manual pumps
to using steam,

243
00:13:30,160 --> 00:13:32,240
mainly when we had a public service.

244
00:13:32,240 --> 00:13:34,640
And that would be under
Captain Shaw then, would it?

245
00:13:34,640 --> 00:13:36,480
It would indeed. Yes, he was
the chief officer

246
00:13:36,480 --> 00:13:38,480
that really wanted
the new technology.

247
00:13:38,480 --> 00:13:41,120
He also introduced a new uniform
into the fire brigade,

248
00:13:41,120 --> 00:13:43,400
so he introduced a woollen tunic,

249
00:13:43,400 --> 00:13:46,000
and this is a replica
of a tunic worn at the time,

250
00:13:46,000 --> 00:13:48,480
so you can get an idea of how heavy
it would have been

251
00:13:48,480 --> 00:13:51,400
and what the fire fighters had to
wear when they went into an
incident.

252
00:13:51,400 --> 00:13:53,840
It is very heavy. I imagine
if this was soaked with water,

253
00:13:53,840 --> 00:13:56,200
it would be quite
an impractical garment.

254
00:13:56,200 --> 00:13:58,440
Yeah, the water helped
to protect them when it was wet,

255
00:13:58,440 --> 00:14:00,600
but they also made sure
that it didn't have hems

256
00:14:00,600 --> 00:14:02,480
so that the water could run off
the jacket

257
00:14:02,480 --> 00:14:04,400
to try and keep it
a bit lighter.

258
00:14:04,400 --> 00:14:07,360
In addition, they also introduced
new helmets into the brigade.

259
00:14:07,360 --> 00:14:10,000
So again, this is a replica,
but it gives you an idea

260
00:14:10,000 --> 00:14:13,720
of the brass helmets that
would have been worn at the time.

261
00:14:13,720 --> 00:14:15,480
Take me to my hose.

262
00:14:17,720 --> 00:14:21,880
I'm keen to find out how things have
changed since Massey Shaw's day.

263
00:14:21,880 --> 00:14:25,760
Southwark is also where the brigade
trains new recruits.

264
00:14:25,760 --> 00:14:28,680
Assistant Commissioner Dany Cotton
assures me

265
00:14:28,680 --> 00:14:32,880
that beer tokens no longer
feature in the curriculum.

266
00:14:32,880 --> 00:14:36,200
At what stage of their development
are these trainee firefighters now?

267
00:14:36,200 --> 00:14:38,320
They've been here
about eight weeks now,

268
00:14:38,320 --> 00:14:42,280
so they're about half way through
their initial basic training,
which lasts 17 weeks.

269
00:14:42,280 --> 00:14:44,320
And what's the exercise
we're watching now?

270
00:14:44,320 --> 00:14:45,560
What do they have to do?

271
00:14:45,560 --> 00:14:47,960
This is demonstrating
that they are able to use hoses

272
00:14:47,960 --> 00:14:49,600
in combination with ladders,

273
00:14:49,600 --> 00:14:52,640
so it's a simulation of a fire
in a three-storey building.

274
00:14:52,640 --> 00:14:55,240
Do you remember your training?
Oh, vividly.

275
00:14:55,240 --> 00:14:58,960
It was... It took place here in 1988.

276
00:14:58,960 --> 00:15:00,440
It was quite different.

277
00:15:00,440 --> 00:15:03,520
It involved a lot of marching,
a lot of saluting,

278
00:15:03,520 --> 00:15:06,400
a lot more shiny shoes
and shouting and running,

279
00:15:06,400 --> 00:15:08,280
but it was a lot more basic.

280
00:15:08,280 --> 00:15:10,840
But now, the fire-fighting role
is so much more complicated.

281
00:15:10,840 --> 00:15:12,280
Why?

282
00:15:12,280 --> 00:15:13,800
Well, technology advances, mainly.

283
00:15:13,800 --> 00:15:16,640
Cars, for instance, were very basic.
If you went to cut a car up,

284
00:15:16,640 --> 00:15:18,640
you could cut it anywhere,
it didn't matter.

285
00:15:18,640 --> 00:15:21,920
Now, cars have got so many different
systems in them to protect us,

286
00:15:21,920 --> 00:15:24,960
air bags and things, that you need
the training for that.

287
00:15:24,960 --> 00:15:27,560
Then, you've got things like
terrorist risk, chemicals...

288
00:15:27,560 --> 00:15:30,280
You're no longer squirting
hoses yourself?

289
00:15:30,280 --> 00:15:32,440
No, sadly not, I did that
for a number of years.

290
00:15:32,440 --> 00:15:34,680
I now point at people
and tell them to squirt hoses.

291
00:15:34,680 --> 00:15:37,560
What's the proportion of women now
in the London Fire Brigade?

292
00:15:37,560 --> 00:15:40,000
Still it seems
a relatively low number,

293
00:15:40,000 --> 00:15:43,560
we've got nearly 350 women out
of nearly 6,000 firefighters.

294
00:15:43,560 --> 00:15:47,520
And there's no reason why a woman
couldn't fight a fire as well
as a man these days?

295
00:15:47,520 --> 00:15:50,360
Absolutely not. Best job in the
world. I would recommend it to
anyone.

296
00:15:50,360 --> 00:15:53,360
I've loved every minute
of my 24 years.

297
00:15:53,360 --> 00:15:56,200
In an area where
old London meets new,

298
00:15:56,200 --> 00:15:58,880
I'm heading back towards the river
through Borough Market,

299
00:15:58,880 --> 00:16:03,600
whose traders have sold food and
supplies since the 11th century,

300
00:16:03,600 --> 00:16:06,360
to my final destination of the day.

301
00:16:06,360 --> 00:16:09,200
The George Inn also has a long past,

302
00:16:09,200 --> 00:16:11,840
which historian Pete Brown
has investigated.

303
00:16:11,840 --> 00:16:14,720
Pete, hello. Hello.
Great to see you. And you.

304
00:16:14,720 --> 00:16:17,800
My Bradshaw's guide to London says,

305
00:16:17,800 --> 00:16:21,600
"The old inns in The Borough,
with their wide rambling staircases

306
00:16:21,600 --> 00:16:24,440
"and wooden galleries
round the inn yards,

307
00:16:24,440 --> 00:16:27,320
"are pleasant reminiscences
of ancient days

308
00:16:27,320 --> 00:16:29,360
"of coach and wagon traffic."

309
00:16:29,360 --> 00:16:33,000
Absolutely, yeah. I'm amazed to
find it so brilliantly preserved,
here at The George.

310
00:16:33,000 --> 00:16:35,600
This really is an amazing
survivor from a previous age.

311
00:16:35,600 --> 00:16:37,080
We're on Borough High Street,

312
00:16:37,080 --> 00:16:39,160
which used to be the main
thoroughfare into London

313
00:16:39,160 --> 00:16:41,120
from the south east
and from the continent.

314
00:16:41,120 --> 00:16:44,480
London Bridge, just up the road,
was the only bridge across
the Thames until 1750.

315
00:16:44,480 --> 00:16:46,000
And it was this huge bottle neck.

316
00:16:46,000 --> 00:16:48,040
Everything came here
and had to stay here

317
00:16:48,040 --> 00:16:50,160
and so, these inns cropped up
all down the street,

318
00:16:50,160 --> 00:16:52,720
there were 20 at one time
and this is the last survivor.

319
00:16:52,720 --> 00:16:55,920
Strangely, it's actually the railways
that killed off places like this.

320
00:16:55,920 --> 00:16:59,640
Anything in the way of that railway
line just disappeared,
it was obliterated.

321
00:16:59,640 --> 00:17:02,840
When you look at maps of Southwark
from before and after that happened,

322
00:17:02,840 --> 00:17:06,920
it's like a child with a felt-tip pen
just kind of came in and just
scribbled these lines across it,

323
00:17:06,920 --> 00:17:09,160
completely transforming
the geography of the place.

324
00:17:09,160 --> 00:17:12,440
How do you account for the unique
survival of The George?

325
00:17:12,440 --> 00:17:16,120
Partly, it's because the Great North
Railway Company bought it, demolished
a lot of it

326
00:17:16,120 --> 00:17:20,400
and kept some of it for office space
and partly, it's because, at that
time, the landlady was this lady,

327
00:17:20,400 --> 00:17:22,720
Agnes Murray, who was
this formidable woman.

328
00:17:22,720 --> 00:17:26,760
She basically appropriated the
mythology of all of Southwark's
coaching inns

329
00:17:26,760 --> 00:17:28,440
and sort of centred it here.

330
00:17:28,440 --> 00:17:31,120
So, on this side, for example,
stood The White Hart

331
00:17:31,120 --> 00:17:33,920
and The White Hart played a pivotal
role in Dickens' first novel,

332
00:17:33,920 --> 00:17:36,800
Pickwick Papers, this is where
Mr Pickwick meets Sam Weller.

333
00:17:36,800 --> 00:17:40,360
And Agnes Murray basically said,
"Well, no, that happened here,

334
00:17:40,360 --> 00:17:43,200
"Dickens might have said The White
Hart, but he meant The George."

335
00:17:43,200 --> 00:17:46,720
And she would show people the bedroom
where this meeting supposedly
took place

336
00:17:46,720 --> 00:17:49,520
and she'd show the table
where Dickens supposedly sat

337
00:17:49,520 --> 00:17:52,040
and kind of built up
this mythology around the place.

338
00:17:52,040 --> 00:17:54,440
And does the pub still
have a warm hearth and warm beer?

339
00:17:54,440 --> 00:17:57,800
It's got a warm hearth and
pleasantly cool beer. Let's go in.

340
00:17:57,800 --> 00:18:01,320
'With an early start tomorrow,
it's just one for the road.'

341
00:18:02,800 --> 00:18:04,800
Well, Pete, cheers. Cheers.

342
00:18:04,800 --> 00:18:07,240
A delightful way to end the day.
Absolutely.

343
00:18:15,280 --> 00:18:18,440
I'm up too early to catch
the Jubilee tube line

344
00:18:18,440 --> 00:18:21,440
or the Docklands Light Railway
to Canary Wharf,

345
00:18:21,440 --> 00:18:23,880
because to get the full flavour
of my next destination,

346
00:18:23,880 --> 00:18:27,760
Billingsgate Fish Market,
requires a pre-dawn start.

347
00:18:30,320 --> 00:18:31,920
My Bradshaw's guide says

348
00:18:31,920 --> 00:18:34,480
"Billingsgate,
situated chiefly at the back

349
00:18:34,480 --> 00:18:36,800
"of that cluster of buildings
by the Custom House

350
00:18:36,800 --> 00:18:39,880
"has been, since the days
of William III,

351
00:18:39,880 --> 00:18:42,800
"the most famous
fish market in Europe."

352
00:18:42,800 --> 00:18:45,920
In Bradshaw's day, the fish
used to arrive by train.

353
00:18:45,920 --> 00:18:48,520
Now, they come mainly by lorry

354
00:18:48,520 --> 00:18:51,880
and the market has been relocated
to Canary Wharf.

355
00:18:51,880 --> 00:18:55,640
But here, at five in the morning,
it has lost none of its bustle

356
00:18:55,640 --> 00:19:01,000
and the change of location has made
Billingsgate no less famous.

357
00:19:01,000 --> 00:19:03,400
Billingsgate became
synonymous with fish

358
00:19:03,400 --> 00:19:07,520
when a 1699 Act of Parliament
made it "a free and open market

359
00:19:07,520 --> 00:19:10,200
"for all sorts of fish whatsoever."

360
00:19:10,200 --> 00:19:13,680
Originally situated on the river
adjacent to London Bridge,

361
00:19:13,680 --> 00:19:15,680
the market was supplied by boat,

362
00:19:15,680 --> 00:19:19,640
but the coming of the railways
revolutionised the fishing industry

363
00:19:19,640 --> 00:19:22,760
and, as it satisfied the new demand
for affordable fresh product,

364
00:19:22,760 --> 00:19:26,240
ports like Grimsby boomed.

365
00:19:26,240 --> 00:19:29,920
Billingsgate customers are still
buying the freshest fish possible

366
00:19:29,920 --> 00:19:31,480
at a price that suits them.

367
00:19:32,760 --> 00:19:36,640
Excuse me, I see you are buying
fish this early in the morning,

368
00:19:36,640 --> 00:19:39,080
are you in the business
or are you buying it for yourself?

369
00:19:39,080 --> 00:19:40,640
No, it's for my personal use.

370
00:19:40,640 --> 00:19:43,120
Do you do that a lot?
Yes, very often, it's good value.

371
00:19:43,120 --> 00:19:45,600
You come down here at five
in the morning and buy your fish?

372
00:19:45,600 --> 00:19:49,400
Absolutely, great value for money.
Are you looking for anything special
in the fish line?

373
00:19:49,400 --> 00:19:52,280
Well, I tend to look
for sea bream... Sea bream.

374
00:19:52,280 --> 00:19:54,680
..which is extremely
good value, and salmon as well.

375
00:19:54,680 --> 00:19:56,520
How do you cook your sea bream?

376
00:19:56,520 --> 00:19:57,960
First of all, I prepare the sauce,

377
00:19:57,960 --> 00:19:59,840
and then, put the sea bream on top,

378
00:19:59,840 --> 00:20:02,600
and then cook it for about five,
ten minutes to steam it.

379
00:20:02,600 --> 00:20:06,240
It sounds absolutely fantastic.
Beautiful, Caribbean style.

380
00:20:06,240 --> 00:20:09,960
You enjoy that, mouthwatering.
Thank you.

381
00:20:09,960 --> 00:20:12,440
Most orders placed here
are wholesale.

382
00:20:12,440 --> 00:20:14,400
At busy times, the larger firms

383
00:20:14,400 --> 00:20:17,240
can sell up to two tonnes of fish
each morning.

384
00:20:17,240 --> 00:20:21,920
Mark Morris works for the market's
longest-established family business

385
00:20:21,920 --> 00:20:25,160
and he's offered
to show me the basics.

386
00:20:25,160 --> 00:20:27,200
Has your family been in the business
a while?

387
00:20:27,200 --> 00:20:30,440
We're the fourth generation,
we go back to the early 1900s.

388
00:20:30,440 --> 00:20:32,760
My great-grandfather
founded the business.

389
00:20:32,760 --> 00:20:36,560
We bring our fish in from all over
the UK, all over Europe.

390
00:20:36,560 --> 00:20:39,800
We've got pollock
and coley there, mackerel.

391
00:20:39,800 --> 00:20:41,000
Beautiful mackerel there.

392
00:20:41,000 --> 00:20:43,440
If you'll have a feel on that
and a pinch on that.

393
00:20:43,440 --> 00:20:44,560
Oh, beautiful fish.

394
00:20:44,560 --> 00:20:47,720
And if you turn it upside down,
open up its gills,

395
00:20:47,720 --> 00:20:50,760
you see the lovely, thick,
rich red rug colour in there.

396
00:20:50,760 --> 00:20:53,640
That's what we're looking for -
bright-eyed, nice and firm.

397
00:20:53,640 --> 00:20:55,840
Lovely hake here.
We pick it up by the eye,

398
00:20:55,840 --> 00:20:58,720
because if you can see the teeth,
they're absolutely razor sharp,

399
00:20:58,720 --> 00:21:01,080
we don't want to be getting
our fingers caught in there.

400
00:21:01,080 --> 00:21:02,760
Thumb and forefinger...

401
00:21:02,760 --> 00:21:05,160
So thumb in one eye,
forefinger in the other.

402
00:21:05,160 --> 00:21:06,840
And lift it straight up.

403
00:21:06,840 --> 00:21:10,640
Oh, there we go! That's a nice,
safe way of picking up a hake.

404
00:21:10,640 --> 00:21:12,480
So I'm avoiding these sharp teeth,

405
00:21:12,480 --> 00:21:15,120
I'm avoiding the sharpness
round the gills.

406
00:21:15,120 --> 00:21:17,200
And it's a rather yucky feeling

407
00:21:17,200 --> 00:21:20,200
sticking your fingers
in the eyes of a hake.

408
00:21:24,320 --> 00:21:27,480
Having got a handle on his fish,
I'm set to work.

409
00:21:29,320 --> 00:21:31,560
Michael, I need two hake, please.

410
00:21:31,560 --> 00:21:34,720
It's getting boxed up. The man wants
his fish today, not the weekend.

411
00:21:34,720 --> 00:21:35,760
HE CHUCKLES

412
00:21:35,760 --> 00:21:38,480
Michael, we need a headless cod
there now please. Headless cod.

413
00:21:38,480 --> 00:21:40,920
One of those large
headless cod, please.

414
00:21:41,840 --> 00:21:45,080
3.88 of headless cod. Thank you.

415
00:21:45,080 --> 00:21:46,880
And two salmon fillets,
as well, please.

416
00:21:46,880 --> 00:21:49,600
No, no, fillets, Michael.
Michael, the fillets, please.

417
00:21:49,600 --> 00:21:51,720
Thank you. Yes, of course, fillets.

418
00:21:51,720 --> 00:21:54,520
Yeah, I do apologise.
New boy on the firm today.

419
00:21:54,520 --> 00:21:57,600
Oh, it's got to go on the weighing
machine first.

420
00:21:57,600 --> 00:21:59,240
3.46 of salmon fillet!

421
00:21:59,240 --> 00:22:02,680
Thank you, Michael. We'll make
a salesman out of you yet, sir.

422
00:22:02,680 --> 00:22:05,520
OK, lovely. Thank you very much.

423
00:22:05,520 --> 00:22:07,920
Yeah, sorry about the delay.
Thank you. Bye-bye.

424
00:22:07,920 --> 00:22:09,160
HE LAUGHS

425
00:22:09,160 --> 00:22:12,840
Lovely, Michael, great job.
Well done, sir, thank you very much.

426
00:22:14,680 --> 00:22:17,280
Oh, dear. I don't think
I could get used to this.

427
00:22:19,720 --> 00:22:23,640
What I could get used to is
travelling on Old Father Thames.

428
00:22:23,640 --> 00:22:25,800
I'm heading east to Abbey Wood,

429
00:22:25,800 --> 00:22:27,480
and my route takes me past

430
00:22:27,480 --> 00:22:30,280
one of the most famous
of all London landmarks.

431
00:22:32,120 --> 00:22:33,720
My Bradshaw's London guide says,

432
00:22:33,720 --> 00:22:36,400
"Greenwich presents a striking
appearance from the river,

433
00:22:36,400 --> 00:22:40,120
"it's hospital forming one of the
most prominent attractions
of the place."

434
00:22:40,120 --> 00:22:43,920
I've always loved Greenwich,
its wonderful architecture,

435
00:22:43,920 --> 00:22:45,600
its spacious buildings,

436
00:22:45,600 --> 00:22:49,440
its association with one
of my heroes, Horatio Nelson.

437
00:22:49,440 --> 00:22:54,040
And now that the Cutty Sark has been
restored, it is complete again.

438
00:22:54,040 --> 00:22:57,080
'I marvel at the river's wonderful
views of London landmarks,

439
00:22:57,080 --> 00:22:58,920
'old and new,'

440
00:22:58,920 --> 00:23:01,040
but one should always remember

441
00:23:01,040 --> 00:23:04,440
that the river is a potent force
to be reckoned with.

442
00:23:04,440 --> 00:23:07,440
In Bradshaw's day,
and indeed until quite recently,

443
00:23:07,440 --> 00:23:11,520
the Thames posed a mighty
danger of flooding

444
00:23:11,520 --> 00:23:16,400
and the erection of the Thames
Barrier has much reduced that risk.

445
00:23:16,400 --> 00:23:19,720
In Bradshaw's day, there was another
peril from the Thames as well -

446
00:23:19,720 --> 00:23:21,880
the water was filthy.

447
00:23:23,800 --> 00:23:26,960
The final destination
of this leg of my journey

448
00:23:26,960 --> 00:23:29,960
lies six miles further downstream
at Abbey Wood.

449
00:23:29,960 --> 00:23:34,280
The Crossness Pumping Station
was opened in 1865

450
00:23:34,280 --> 00:23:38,720
as an essential element of one of
the largest engineering projects

451
00:23:38,720 --> 00:23:41,440
ever undertaken anywhere
in the world.

452
00:23:41,440 --> 00:23:44,600
Author Stephen Halliday should be
able to tell me more.

453
00:23:44,600 --> 00:23:46,680
Stephen, hello. Hello.

454
00:23:46,680 --> 00:23:49,360
I've just travelled here on
the river and it was very nice,

455
00:23:49,360 --> 00:23:52,600
but I believe it was not always
that pleasant on the Thames.

456
00:23:52,600 --> 00:23:57,400
Indeed. The sewage of 2.5 million
people was flowing into the River
Thames

457
00:23:57,400 --> 00:24:01,600
and, of course, the Thames is a
tidal river, so it never went away.

458
00:24:01,600 --> 00:24:03,800
Why hadn't that happened before?

459
00:24:03,800 --> 00:24:07,800
Because, until about 1800,
if you wanted to spend a penny,

460
00:24:07,800 --> 00:24:10,640
you would go into the basement
of your home,

461
00:24:10,640 --> 00:24:14,280
you would do what
you have to do in a cesspit,

462
00:24:14,280 --> 00:24:17,840
which would be emptied
at intervals by a night soil man,

463
00:24:17,840 --> 00:24:21,000
who carted it away and sold it
to farmers.

464
00:24:21,000 --> 00:24:23,200
And what happened AFTER 1800?

465
00:24:23,200 --> 00:24:26,680
The importation of guano
from South America,

466
00:24:26,680 --> 00:24:28,760
solidified bird droppings,

467
00:24:28,760 --> 00:24:30,960
gave a better form of fertiliser.

468
00:24:30,960 --> 00:24:34,640
But the real killer was the
introduction of the water closet.

469
00:24:34,640 --> 00:24:37,280
When you flushed, what you sent
round the S-bend

470
00:24:37,280 --> 00:24:39,880
was a very small quantity
of potential fertilizer

471
00:24:39,880 --> 00:24:42,280
and a huge volume of water,

472
00:24:42,280 --> 00:24:46,360
so the cesspit filled up
ten or 20 times as quickly

473
00:24:46,360 --> 00:24:50,440
with liquid which people didn't want
to buy and which leaked.

474
00:24:50,440 --> 00:24:53,680
And they leaked into surrounding
water courses,

475
00:24:53,680 --> 00:24:56,800
wells, sources of drinking water,

476
00:24:56,800 --> 00:25:02,200
and dysentery, cholera and typhoid
started to spread throughout London.

477
00:25:02,200 --> 00:25:04,240
That's the so-called Great Stink.

478
00:25:04,240 --> 00:25:06,640
Indeed, in the summer of 1858,

479
00:25:06,640 --> 00:25:09,560
you would not have wanted
to be on the river at all.

480
00:25:09,560 --> 00:25:15,840
After the 1853 cholera outbreak
had claimed over 10,000 lives

481
00:25:15,840 --> 00:25:19,320
and the hot summer of 1858
created the Great Stink,

482
00:25:19,320 --> 00:25:21,960
action was finally taken.

483
00:25:21,960 --> 00:25:24,960
As chief engineer to London's
Metropolitan Board Of Works,

484
00:25:24,960 --> 00:25:29,760
Joseph Bazalgette oversaw the
building of 82 miles of mains sewers

485
00:25:29,760 --> 00:25:31,640
under the streets of London,

486
00:25:31,640 --> 00:25:33,720
which intercepted existing sewers

487
00:25:33,720 --> 00:25:37,160
and despatched the capital's
human waste out to sea

488
00:25:37,160 --> 00:25:41,400
via two steam-powered pumping
stations like Crossness.

489
00:25:41,400 --> 00:25:43,800
It's currently undergoing
restoration.

490
00:25:45,000 --> 00:25:46,720
It's absolutely glorious,

491
00:25:46,720 --> 00:25:49,560
it's as highly decorated
as the House of Commons.

492
00:25:49,560 --> 00:25:53,000
Yes, for a sewage-pumping station,
they didn't stint, did they?

493
00:25:55,040 --> 00:25:57,440
What a fantastic restoration.
Hello, I'm Michael.

494
00:25:57,440 --> 00:26:01,320
I'm Mike Jones. So when was
the pumping station restored?

495
00:26:01,320 --> 00:26:03,600
Well, we're still restoring it,

496
00:26:03,600 --> 00:26:08,040
but I suppose the trust
really started around 1988.

497
00:26:08,040 --> 00:26:11,320
It was, in fact, scheduled for
demolition for quite a while

498
00:26:11,320 --> 00:26:14,520
and wasn't demolished because
the engines are so large,

499
00:26:14,520 --> 00:26:17,240
so it's very fortunate
that it's still here.

500
00:26:17,240 --> 00:26:20,440
And I think people would be amazed,
overwhelmed

501
00:26:20,440 --> 00:26:24,320
that the Victorians decorated
a pumping station like this.

502
00:26:24,320 --> 00:26:26,920
I think it's a reflection
of the Victorian pride

503
00:26:26,920 --> 00:26:28,520
in what they were doing.

504
00:26:28,520 --> 00:26:30,720
And I believe one of the engines
actually works.

505
00:26:30,720 --> 00:26:34,840
That's true, Prince Consort
has been in steam since 2003.

506
00:26:34,840 --> 00:26:36,440
And if you'd like to,
you can start it.

507
00:26:36,440 --> 00:26:39,240
I would love to,
it'd be a privilege.

508
00:26:39,240 --> 00:26:43,160
Crossness has four gigantic
steam engines,

509
00:26:43,160 --> 00:26:47,800
each boasting 47-ton beams

510
00:26:47,800 --> 00:26:50,080
and 52-ton flywheels.

511
00:26:51,680 --> 00:26:54,200
We normally blow the whistle
before we start the engine,

512
00:26:54,200 --> 00:26:55,760
give it a long blast.

513
00:26:55,760 --> 00:26:57,560
WHISTLE

514
00:26:57,560 --> 00:26:59,840
Open this valve here...

515
00:27:25,880 --> 00:27:28,240
My Bradshaw's guide is right -

516
00:27:28,240 --> 00:27:30,360
the best way to see London
is by boat.

517
00:27:30,360 --> 00:27:31,720
From the Tate Gallery,

518
00:27:31,720 --> 00:27:34,800
past the Houses of Parliament
to Billingsgate Fish Market,

519
00:27:34,800 --> 00:27:37,800
the Thames was London's highway
to the world.

520
00:27:37,800 --> 00:27:39,720
But when, during the Great Stink,

521
00:27:39,720 --> 00:27:42,640
it began to carry
more sewage than exports,

522
00:27:42,640 --> 00:27:46,160
those magnificent Victorians
engineered a solution

523
00:27:46,160 --> 00:27:48,040
on a grand scale, as usual.

524
00:27:51,400 --> 00:27:53,120
On the next leg of my journey,

525
00:27:53,120 --> 00:27:55,720
I'll discover how derelict
Victorian London

526
00:27:55,720 --> 00:27:59,240
is being rejuvenated
to its former glory.

527
00:27:59,240 --> 00:28:01,600
This is to be called
Granary Square

528
00:28:01,600 --> 00:28:05,080
and will be bigger
than Trafalgar Square. Amazing.

529
00:28:05,080 --> 00:28:08,280
I'll put in a shift
at a Cambridgeshire brick factory

530
00:28:08,280 --> 00:28:11,560
that helped to rebuild
post-war London.

531
00:28:11,560 --> 00:28:13,800
Hey, new boy! Come and have a go!

532
00:28:13,800 --> 00:28:15,440
Always one for a challenge.

533
00:28:15,440 --> 00:28:18,840
And I'll meet a brick-built
immigrant community.

534
00:28:18,840 --> 00:28:22,160
THEY SING

535
00:28:53,520 --> 00:28:56,640
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