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In 1840, one man transformed
travel in the British Isles.

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His name was George Bradshaw,

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and his railway guides inspired the
Victorians to take to the tracks.

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'Stop by stop,

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'he told them where to travel,
what to see and where to stay.

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'Now, 170 years later,
I'm making a series of journeys

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'across the length and breadth
of these isles

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'to see what of Bradshaw's Britain
remains.'

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I'm continuing my journey
across Scotland.

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I've left behind the cities
of Stirling and Perth.

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This train will now take me
towards the east coast,

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where I shall look for traces

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of the region's Victorian
industrial heritage.

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On today's leg,
I learn how Queen Victoria

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'used trackside trees to screen her
from her subjects.'

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They were planted
at Queen Victoria's request,

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because when she was going
to Balmoral,

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the royal train would stop here
for her breakfast,

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and she didn't like the locals
seeing her eating.

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I lend an ear to the history
of a textile mill.

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Everybody in the factory
went deaf eventually, did they?

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Oh yes, they were all deaf.

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Awful!

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'And I go out with a bang
in Aberdeenshire.'

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EXPLOSION

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Lord! Look at that!

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It has changed the shape
of the quarry!

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Using my 1880s Bradshaw's,

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my northward journey
started in Stirling,

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headed to Perthshire, moves on
to the oil rich city of Aberdeen,

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and then west,

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through Inverness-shire and the
classic lochs of the Highlands,

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before finishing at John
O'Groats.

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Today's leg begins in Dundee,

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gets smoky in Arbroath,

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steamy in Montrose,

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and hits some granite in Aberdeen.

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My first destination will be Dundee,

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which my Bradshaw's tells me
is the capital of Forfarshire.

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"Seat of the Scottish linen trade.
A port situated on the Tay.

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"The factories for spinning
and weaving flax

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"exceed a hundred in number,
employing as many as 20,000 hands,

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"three fourths of whom are women."

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I'm intrigued that the workforce
was mainly female

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at a time when men dominated
employment nationally.

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Originally a small
11th century port,

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Dundee grew to become a medieval
exporter of wool

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and importer of wine,
but it was in the 19th century

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that weaving,
whaling and shipbuilding combined

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to make the port one of the most
important economic hubs in Scotland.

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To find out more,

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I'm meeting heritage and exhibitions
director, Gill Poulter,

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'at Verdant Works,
a mill that's become a museum.'

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Gill, Hello. Hello, Michael.
Welcome to Verdant Works.

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It's lovely to be here.

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My Bradshaw's says,
"Coarse linens, osland bergs,

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"diapers, sail cloth rope, canvas,

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"are the chief goods made
up in Dundee."

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I don't understand
all of those words,

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but a lot of them lead me to believe

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that it must have been connected
to shipping in the early days.

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Would that be right?

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Well, Dundee was the centre
of the coarse linen trade

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in the 19th century,
and was making all those goods

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and shipping them around the world.

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And they weren't your fine Damask
tablecloths for fine dining -

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they were very much materials used
for transportation -

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for bags, for sacking,
for bailing materials.

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And what was the raw
material that they used?

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Well, coarse linen
is made from the flax plant,

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and it's a bast fibre.

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And the majority of the flax
used in Dundee

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was imported from the Baltic states.

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But when the supply of flax from the
Baltic area was interrupted,

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Dundee needed an alternative.

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Jute is a natural vegetable fibre

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first introduced to Britain
in the late 18th century from India.

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By the 1820s,
Dundee had begun to import it,

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but its brittle fibres made jute
difficult to process

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until the Dundonians discovered that
soaking it in whale oil and water

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rendered it pliable
and easy to spin,

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and the city was on its way
to being nicknamed "Juteopolis."

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Why did the industry spring up
in Dundee of all places, anyway?

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It had a skilled workforce,
used to the textile industry,

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but one of the key things was Dundee
was one of the biggest whaling ports

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in the UK at that time, so had
a ready supply of raw whale oil

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that could be used
in the jute industry,

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so it was a very good synergy.

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And which is this, flax or jute?

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This is raw jute,
which arrives from India

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and has to go through a factory
before it ends up as hessian,

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which is what people will be
familiar with.

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Your supermarket eco-friendly
shopping bags today made from jute.

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Very familiar.

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And in the 19th century, which is
what I'm mainly interested in,

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what would the scene have been
like in a mill like this?

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They would have been very dirty,
very noisy, very chaotic.

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The workforce was predominantly
women.

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They outnumbered men
by three to one.

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There would have been young
children working as pickers,

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cleaning underneath the machines,

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and a pretty dangerous place
to work, as well.

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People regularly lost fingertips,

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and obviously there were
fatal accidents as well.

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We know of at least two fatal
accidents that took place here.

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Such a dangerous and noisy place -
why women and children?

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It's cheaper to employ.

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So there was a real role reversal in
the city and the men stayed at home.

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So Dundee became known as She Town.
MICHAEL LAUGHS

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And the mill girls were called bold,
you know, wide eyed, loud girls,

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lording it up in the streets,
you know,

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and it really did, sort of,
have a social impact on the city.

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Now I don't want to
sound like a Marxist,

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but somebody must have been
making money out of this stuff.

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The jute barons,

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which is the very grand aristocratic
title for the mill owners.

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And they were making fortunes.
They were making millions.

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Multi-millionaires, they were,

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and they built very grand estates
in the countryside of Angus,

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or in the seaside suburb of
Broughtyferry just a few miles away,

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so they could get away from
the grime of the population here

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and the industrial life.

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And at one time,

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Broughtyferry was thought to have
more millionaires per square mile

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than any other part of the country,

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so quite a concentration of wealth
in one small little place.

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Astute entrepreneurs,

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the jute barons built their fortunes
on the skills of their weavers.

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Their techniques were passed
from generation to generation.

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An example was Lily Thomson's
family.

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She started working the looms
aged 15.

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Lily, hello, I'm Michael.
How do you do?

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Now, this is a very ancient loom
here.

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Mm-hmm. How different was this one
from the one you used to use?

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The one I used was like this
as well,

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but the other one was much,
much bigger.

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May we start the machine, please?
Yes, we can.

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Would you like to stand back
so you don't get hurt?

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For my safety, yes? For your safety.

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MACHINE CLATTERS LOUDLY

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That is an amazing noise!

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SHOUTS ABOVE MACHINE:
Is it because of the shuttle
going backwards and forwards,

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is that where the noise is coming
from? Yes, that's it.

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Now, when you were working here
or in a mill,

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how many of these machines
were there in the room?

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About 300.

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300? That must have been
an incredible noise.

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Some factories had 400.

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And everybody in the factory
went deaf eventually, did they?

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Oh yes, they were all deaf.

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Awful!

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I think I've had enough.

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MACHINE STOPS

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And tell me, in your day,

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what did you make
in a very good week?

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Towards the end of my career,
my ambition was to make £20 a week,

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and I did it once.

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So looking back on your life,
struggling to make £20 a week,

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do you think it was a hard life, do
you think you were dealt a bad deal?

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Oh, yes.
But it was just where you were born.

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If you were born into a jute family,

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you're going to the mills,
and you didn't say no.

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Lily, it's been a pleasure
and a privilege

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to meet such a skilful and charming
Dundee weaver.

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Thank you very much. Thank you.
Bye-bye. Bye-bye.

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Visiting this mill has been
poignant for me,

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because my own grandfather,
John Blyth,

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was a Scottish Victorian gentleman

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who had a linen factory
full of noisy looms like these.

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WHISTLE BLOWS

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Waves are battering
Scotland's east coast

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as I make my way up
towards Arbroath,

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where my Bradshaw's tells me,

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"In 1807 to 1811, a noble lighthouse
was built by Stevenson

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"on the model of the Eddystone,

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"which is shaped like the trunk
of a tree.

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"It's of solid stone
for 30 feet upwards,

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"the total height being 115 feet.

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"Four men live here, each of whom,
every six weeks, for a change,

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00:09:36,600 --> 00:09:39,280
"takes a fortnight's turn ashore."

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I wonder why such a major
structure was built,

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and what impact it had on local
people and the economy?

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00:09:48,480 --> 00:09:50,800
In the year 1320,

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00:09:50,800 --> 00:09:55,320
the Declaration of Scottish
Independence was signed in Arbroath.

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00:09:55,320 --> 00:09:59,480
But after 1811, the fishing port
became famous for a building -

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its lighthouse.

187
00:10:01,080 --> 00:10:05,280
The Bell Rock, situated 11 miles
from Arbroath on Inchcape,

188
00:10:05,280 --> 00:10:08,280
a notorious reef in the North Sea.

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00:10:08,280 --> 00:10:12,800
It's the oldest existing sea-washed
lighthouse in the British Isles.

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00:10:14,800 --> 00:10:18,280
'On this stormy afternoon,
I can't get out to sea.

191
00:10:18,280 --> 00:10:21,520
'Instead, I'm climbing
a lighthouse-like building,

192
00:10:21,520 --> 00:10:26,640
'in fact the signal tower museum, to
meet Bob Spink, a local councillor.'

193
00:10:26,640 --> 00:10:29,200
Bob, I assume!
MICHAEL LAUGHS
Hello, Michael!

194
00:10:29,200 --> 00:10:32,080
Was it a very important decision
to build Bell Rock lighthouse?

195
00:10:32,080 --> 00:10:34,120
It had been a threat
for a long, long time,

196
00:10:34,120 --> 00:10:36,920
and goodness knows how many ships
had been wrecked on it. Yeah.

197
00:10:36,920 --> 00:10:39,000
I mean, one that comes to mind
right was the HMS York,

198
00:10:39,000 --> 00:10:43,120
which was a 64-gun ship of the line,
which was wrecked in 1804,

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00:10:43,120 --> 00:10:47,720
which was obviously before the
lighthouse was built

200
00:10:47,720 --> 00:10:48,920
and easy to live in.

201
00:10:48,920 --> 00:10:51,440
491 of a crew, and all perished.

202
00:10:52,600 --> 00:10:55,240
It was based on the
18th century design

203
00:10:55,240 --> 00:10:58,680
of John Smeaton's Eddystone
lighthouse off Cornwall.

204
00:10:58,680 --> 00:11:01,000
The Bell Rock's engineer,
Robert Stevenson,

205
00:11:01,000 --> 00:11:04,600
was Robert Louis Stevenson's
grandfather.

206
00:11:04,600 --> 00:11:06,040
A gifted engineer,

207
00:11:06,040 --> 00:11:09,760
as part of the project, he built
a railway on cast-iron props,

208
00:11:09,760 --> 00:11:11,680
running to the western tip
of the reef,

209
00:11:11,680 --> 00:11:14,400
to carry material
for the lighthouse.

210
00:11:14,400 --> 00:11:20,520
Almost 3,000 precisely cut slabs of
rock were dovetailed in 90 layers

211
00:11:20,520 --> 00:11:22,920
to create a structure
which for two centuries

212
00:11:22,920 --> 00:11:26,320
has been untroubled
by the raging seas.

213
00:11:26,320 --> 00:11:30,160
It takes a special breed to man it.

214
00:11:32,920 --> 00:11:35,680
My Bradshaw's talks about
the Bell Rock lighthouse,

215
00:11:35,680 --> 00:11:38,680
about men being out there six weeks
with two weeks back on shore.

216
00:11:38,680 --> 00:11:42,960
I mean, the idea of men living
in such a confined space...

217
00:11:42,960 --> 00:11:44,600
And today, you get a bit
of a feeling

218
00:11:44,600 --> 00:11:46,800
of what it must be like to be
battered by the weather,

219
00:11:46,800 --> 00:11:50,160
but we're, you know, we're on solid
terra firma here, but out there -

220
00:11:50,160 --> 00:11:52,800
it must have taken
a bit of courage, mustn't it?

221
00:11:52,800 --> 00:11:54,640
It must have been awful.

222
00:11:54,640 --> 00:11:56,600
I mean, I think it's not a job
I could have done.

223
00:11:56,600 --> 00:12:00,040
I think it would take a particular
type of person,

224
00:12:00,040 --> 00:12:02,040
someone who is more or less
happy with himself.

225
00:12:02,040 --> 00:12:04,800
I knew some of the keepers
that were on the lighthouse,

226
00:12:04,800 --> 00:12:07,840
and they spent so long -
so much time on there

227
00:12:07,840 --> 00:12:09,560
and so much time ashore,

228
00:12:09,560 --> 00:12:12,440
and they all usually had hobbies
of some kind to keep them busy,

229
00:12:12,440 --> 00:12:15,280
but it wouldn't be the life for me.

230
00:12:15,280 --> 00:12:16,520
I mean, it's not...

231
00:12:16,520 --> 00:12:19,360
If you enjoy a walk, you don't want
to be on the Bell Rock.

232
00:12:19,360 --> 00:12:21,600
Fearsome indeed. Fearsome, yes.

233
00:12:21,600 --> 00:12:23,760
But on days like those, of course,

234
00:12:23,760 --> 00:12:25,600
that's when they were saving
men's lives.

235
00:12:25,600 --> 00:12:27,040
Exactly.

236
00:12:27,040 --> 00:12:30,560
It's easy to see the function of the
lighthouse and why it's there.

237
00:12:30,560 --> 00:12:32,480
Robert Stevenson did very well.

238
00:12:32,480 --> 00:12:34,640
Whilst the mighty lighthouse

239
00:12:34,640 --> 00:12:38,120
protects Arbroath's fleet
from the dangers of the ocean,

240
00:12:38,120 --> 00:12:41,880
'the town also benefits from the
bounty that the North Sea provides.

241
00:12:41,880 --> 00:12:44,560
'One fish is synonymous
with the town.

242
00:12:44,560 --> 00:12:47,960
'It's the haddock, or rather
the way it's cooked here -'

243
00:12:47,960 --> 00:12:50,400
the Arbroath smoky.

244
00:12:50,400 --> 00:12:53,920
The fish is so important
to the local economy

245
00:12:53,920 --> 00:12:58,160
that in 2004 it was granted
Protected Geographical Indication

246
00:12:58,160 --> 00:13:00,320
by the European Commission

247
00:13:00,320 --> 00:13:04,440
to forbid non-Arbroath imitations
using its name.

248
00:13:04,440 --> 00:13:07,080
Fishmonger and fish smoker
Stuart Scott

249
00:13:07,080 --> 00:13:09,720
has agreed to show me
how they're made.

250
00:13:11,120 --> 00:13:12,360
Oh, hello, Michael.

251
00:13:12,360 --> 00:13:14,760
It's good to see you.
Pleased to meet you.

252
00:13:14,760 --> 00:13:17,280
I find you in your smoky den. It
really is smoky in here, isn't it?

253
00:13:17,280 --> 00:13:19,440
Yeah.
How are you producing that stuff?

254
00:13:19,440 --> 00:13:21,520
Well, it's a hardwood fire.

255
00:13:21,520 --> 00:13:25,360
Any type of hardwood does,
at the moment we're using oak,

256
00:13:25,360 --> 00:13:27,880
and it's kind of like
a barbecue effect,

257
00:13:27,880 --> 00:13:29,800
where I've jumped in there
this morning

258
00:13:29,800 --> 00:13:31,840
and created quite a big fire,

259
00:13:31,840 --> 00:13:34,200
and then just brought the lid down

260
00:13:34,200 --> 00:13:36,840
and slowly cooked these fresh
haddocks on the bone

261
00:13:36,840 --> 00:13:38,960
for about one hour.

262
00:13:38,960 --> 00:13:41,800
Not to be confused with
a kippered herring,

263
00:13:41,800 --> 00:13:45,240
the exact origins of Arbroath
smoked haddock aren't clear,

264
00:13:45,240 --> 00:13:47,520
but it's thought to have originated

265
00:13:47,520 --> 00:13:50,120
from a nearby fishing village
called Auchmithie,

266
00:13:50,120 --> 00:13:54,680
where Robert Burns himself
breakfasted on smoked fish.

267
00:13:54,680 --> 00:13:58,440
In the 19th century, the fishermen
were lured to Arbroath

268
00:13:58,440 --> 00:14:00,480
after the harbour was renovated.

269
00:14:01,520 --> 00:14:03,920
Shall we take a look?
Yeah, let's see if they're ready.

270
00:14:03,920 --> 00:14:07,880
Whoa! That is smoky!

271
00:14:07,880 --> 00:14:10,440
Yeah, initially there's
quite a bit of smoke,

272
00:14:10,440 --> 00:14:13,720
but once the air clears,

273
00:14:13,720 --> 00:14:16,360
you'll see a roaring hardwood fire
underneath there.

274
00:14:16,360 --> 00:14:19,400
And then these are by now
Arbroath smokies, are they?

275
00:14:19,400 --> 00:14:21,800
Yes, they've moved from
being a fresh ingredient,

276
00:14:21,800 --> 00:14:25,440
of the humble haddock, to a fully
cooked ingredient ready to eat.

277
00:14:25,440 --> 00:14:26,960
Very tasty. What do you do next?

278
00:14:26,960 --> 00:14:28,520
Right, I'm going to take them off.

279
00:14:28,520 --> 00:14:31,840
Can I help you with one of those?
Yeah, get stuck in, Michael.

280
00:14:31,840 --> 00:14:36,440
Stuart, the Arbroath smoky - pretty
well-known now, pretty far and wide.

281
00:14:36,440 --> 00:14:37,600
Yeah, very much so.

282
00:14:37,600 --> 00:14:39,640
Did the railways help in their day?

283
00:14:39,640 --> 00:14:40,680
Oh, definitely.

284
00:14:40,680 --> 00:14:42,120
If it wasn't for the railways,

285
00:14:42,120 --> 00:14:44,360
I don't think there would have been
an Arbroath smoky -

286
00:14:44,360 --> 00:14:46,600
it would have still been
an Auchmithie smoky.

287
00:14:46,600 --> 00:14:48,800
But because we had the rail link,

288
00:14:48,800 --> 00:14:52,520
we commercialised on what was
a very good recipe,

289
00:14:52,520 --> 00:14:55,720
and we managed to make
a little bit more of it.

290
00:14:55,720 --> 00:15:01,400
Again, the rail came in very handy
where wives of the fish merchants

291
00:15:01,400 --> 00:15:05,280
would go on the train and go to
their nearest city which is Dundee.

292
00:15:05,280 --> 00:15:09,120
They would just have wicker baskets
strapped across their shoulders,

293
00:15:09,120 --> 00:15:11,600
full of Arbroath smokies,

294
00:15:11,600 --> 00:15:14,120
and they would sell them
to the housewives of Dundee.

295
00:15:14,120 --> 00:15:16,840
I have a funny feeling you're
leaving all this to me now, Stuart,

296
00:15:16,840 --> 00:15:18,040
are you? It's for the best.

297
00:15:18,040 --> 00:15:21,040
You're welcome to give a hand any
time you like, you know!

298
00:15:22,120 --> 00:15:25,880
Arbroath's fame for its smokies
and its pretty harbour

299
00:15:25,880 --> 00:15:27,840
attract day-trippers
and holidaymakers

300
00:15:27,840 --> 00:15:30,280
who can reach here by train.

301
00:15:30,280 --> 00:15:32,800
Having helped produce
and stack them,

302
00:15:32,800 --> 00:15:36,160
'it's now time for me
to taste the smokies.'

303
00:15:36,160 --> 00:15:38,000
I've heard that Marco Macari,

304
00:15:38,000 --> 00:15:40,240
the owner and chef
at a local restaurant,

305
00:15:40,240 --> 00:15:42,240
'has some innovative recipes.'

306
00:15:45,920 --> 00:15:49,520
Marco! Hello!
Hi, I'm Michael. Hello.

307
00:15:49,520 --> 00:15:52,040
I have been hearing
about Arbroath smokies,

308
00:15:52,040 --> 00:15:55,680
I've seen Arbroath smokies,
I've smoked Arbroath smokies,

309
00:15:55,680 --> 00:15:58,280
so I've come actually to taste
some Arbroath smokies.

310
00:15:58,280 --> 00:16:00,720
Sure, yes we certainly can
help you out there.

311
00:16:00,720 --> 00:16:01,720
I think you can.

312
00:16:01,720 --> 00:16:04,800
How many different ways
could I have them? Well, we...

313
00:16:04,800 --> 00:16:08,280
On the menu currently, we have
about four or five different ways,

314
00:16:08,280 --> 00:16:10,920
but it really is a very versatile
ingredient.

315
00:16:10,920 --> 00:16:13,520
The most popular way is to have it
traditionally,

316
00:16:13,520 --> 00:16:18,440
just warmed up as it is,
"from the barrel," as they call it.

317
00:16:18,440 --> 00:16:19,840
So that's what...

318
00:16:19,840 --> 00:16:23,600
Especially tourists, they come to
have it in the traditional manner.

319
00:16:23,600 --> 00:16:26,120
And if I wanted to be less
traditional, what would I do then?

320
00:16:26,120 --> 00:16:28,680
Well, we could give you some pate...
OK.

321
00:16:28,680 --> 00:16:33,240
we could do some dauphinoise
with a chowder through it.

322
00:16:33,240 --> 00:16:38,520
We could give you some linguine
with crayfish and smoky.

323
00:16:38,520 --> 00:16:41,760
I'll tell you what, how would it be
if I leave it to you? Excellent.

324
00:16:41,760 --> 00:16:43,200
Thank you very much.

325
00:16:43,200 --> 00:16:47,160
'Marco's described four
of the smoky recipes on offer.

326
00:16:47,160 --> 00:16:49,080
'I wonder what his fifth might be?'

327
00:16:50,120 --> 00:16:51,920
That looks lovely. What is it?

328
00:16:51,920 --> 00:16:54,560
This is Arbroath smoky ice cream.

329
00:16:54,560 --> 00:16:56,760
Arbroath smoky ice cream?

330
00:16:56,760 --> 00:16:58,400
What have you been smoking?

331
00:17:03,800 --> 00:17:05,560
That's amazing. That is amazing.

332
00:17:05,560 --> 00:17:09,200
I'll tell you, anyone who didn't
like that would be a real cold fish.

333
00:17:09,200 --> 00:17:10,240
I'm glad to hear it.

334
00:17:10,240 --> 00:17:14,680
'Arbroath smoky ice cream
is surprisingly delicious,

335
00:17:14,680 --> 00:17:18,120
'but I'll leave smoked fish
off my breakfast menu tomorrow.'

336
00:17:23,200 --> 00:17:26,080
Fumigated and ready for a new day,

337
00:17:26,080 --> 00:17:29,120
I'm beginning the next leg
of my Scottish journey.

338
00:17:29,120 --> 00:17:31,920
This crowded train is taking me
towards Montrose.

339
00:17:31,920 --> 00:17:33,600
My Bradshaw's says,

340
00:17:33,600 --> 00:17:36,800
"The appearance of Montrose
is peculiarly striking -

341
00:17:36,800 --> 00:17:40,880
"the basin in all the beauty
of a circular lake,

342
00:17:40,880 --> 00:17:43,280
"the fertile and finely cultivated
fields

343
00:17:43,280 --> 00:17:45,920
rising gently from its banks.

344
00:17:45,920 --> 00:17:49,000
"The town, harbour
and bay stretching further,

345
00:17:49,000 --> 00:17:51,800
"and the lofty summit
of the Grampians

346
00:17:51,800 --> 00:17:54,680
"closing the scene
towards the North West

347
00:17:54,680 --> 00:17:57,920
"present to the traveller
one of the most magnificent

348
00:17:57,920 --> 00:18:02,400
"and diversified amphitheatres
found in the United Kingdom."

349
00:18:02,400 --> 00:18:05,840
Now there's something to look
forward to on this sunny morn.

350
00:18:08,280 --> 00:18:11,720
These days, the train brings
commuters to the town,

351
00:18:11,720 --> 00:18:15,800
but in the 19th century, Montrose
was home to wealthy merchants

352
00:18:15,800 --> 00:18:19,040
who were attracted by the rich
agricultural hinterland

353
00:18:19,040 --> 00:18:21,360
that enabled the natural harbour
to flourish.

354
00:18:25,520 --> 00:18:29,640
Today, the port of Montrose
is modern and bustling,

355
00:18:29,640 --> 00:18:32,480
and I'm prepared to bet
that its transformation

356
00:18:32,480 --> 00:18:35,840
since Victorian times
owes something to...

357
00:18:35,840 --> 00:18:37,120
the railways.

358
00:18:41,000 --> 00:18:44,640
And one in particular
transformed the local economy.

359
00:18:44,640 --> 00:18:46,080
In 1848,

360
00:18:46,080 --> 00:18:50,120
opened by the Aberdeen Railway,
and later bought by the Caledonian,

361
00:18:50,120 --> 00:18:52,920
it ran to Montrose
from nearby Brechin,

362
00:18:52,920 --> 00:18:56,240
carrying produce between the
Vale of Strathmore and Montrose.

363
00:18:59,680 --> 00:19:04,160
The line closed to goods traffic
in 1981, but I'm driving to Brechin,

364
00:19:04,160 --> 00:19:06,800
where a section of the railway
has been restored

365
00:19:06,800 --> 00:19:09,840
by steam enthusiast, Steve Pegg
and his colleagues,

366
00:19:09,840 --> 00:19:14,520
who've kindly invited me to take
the controls of their locomotive.

367
00:19:16,520 --> 00:19:17,640
Steve.

368
00:19:17,640 --> 00:19:21,000
Michael! I find you up close
and dirty with the locomotive.

369
00:19:21,000 --> 00:19:23,280
What are you actually doing?
We're oiling it.

370
00:19:23,280 --> 00:19:25,720
There's a multitude
of oiling points on these things,

371
00:19:25,720 --> 00:19:28,160
and every one has to be filled up
before we can go anywhere.

372
00:19:28,160 --> 00:19:31,680
Have you done that one already?
I've done that one.
Would you like to have a go? Yeah.

373
00:19:31,680 --> 00:19:34,760
So if you want to take the lid off
that one there, Michael.
Give it a twirl.

374
00:19:34,760 --> 00:19:38,520
Now, when you're oiling, you always
have an oily rag in your hand
in case of any spillages.

375
00:19:38,520 --> 00:19:42,160
Right, OK. Thank you.
There we are. And if you just want
to fill that up with that...

376
00:19:44,160 --> 00:19:45,440
How much is it going to take?

377
00:19:45,440 --> 00:19:47,000
Oh, not a lot.

378
00:19:47,000 --> 00:19:49,240
A couple of fluid ounces.

379
00:19:49,240 --> 00:19:52,080
Just showing at the top there,
is that right?
That's fine, excellent.

380
00:19:52,080 --> 00:19:55,160
The Victorians, what kind of oils
were they using in the early days?

381
00:19:55,160 --> 00:20:00,000
In the very early days,
oils were often animal oils
or vegetable oils,

382
00:20:00,000 --> 00:20:03,280
which were OK for the smaller
locos that were originally built,

383
00:20:03,280 --> 00:20:05,280
but weren't particularly good

384
00:20:05,280 --> 00:20:07,400
for higher speeds
and higher temperatures.

385
00:20:07,400 --> 00:20:11,520
It was only really later on that
mineral oils came in in a big way,

386
00:20:11,520 --> 00:20:16,640
which allowed engines to improve in
size and performance at that stage.

387
00:20:16,640 --> 00:20:19,600
With the loco oiled and steam up,

388
00:20:19,600 --> 00:20:22,880
it's time to take to the tracks.

389
00:20:22,880 --> 00:20:23,760
Brake off!

390
00:20:25,000 --> 00:20:27,040
Toot the whistle to let them
know we're coming.

391
00:20:27,040 --> 00:20:29,040
WHISTLE BLOWS

392
00:20:29,040 --> 00:20:30,080
Excellent.

393
00:20:30,080 --> 00:20:32,920
Now, gently open the regulator.
There we are.

394
00:20:34,520 --> 00:20:35,560
There we go. Whoa!

395
00:20:35,560 --> 00:20:38,440
We're off! We're off. We're going
backwards! We're going backwards.

396
00:20:46,520 --> 00:20:48,160
A little bit fast, Michael.

397
00:20:48,160 --> 00:20:51,200
If we could slow down,
that would be marvellous.

398
00:20:51,200 --> 00:20:54,640
That's it. Coming to a gentle
stand now, just ideal.

399
00:21:03,200 --> 00:21:04,440
That is fun.

400
00:21:04,440 --> 00:21:06,640
That gives you such a feeling
of satisfaction,

401
00:21:06,640 --> 00:21:10,280
being able to stop a great powerful
machine like this in its tracks.

402
00:21:10,280 --> 00:21:14,160
This was the railway line
down to Montrose, yes? Yes, indeed.

403
00:21:14,160 --> 00:21:17,000
What sort of cargoes were going in
and out of Montrose?

404
00:21:17,000 --> 00:21:18,640
Oh, there would be
all kinds of things.

405
00:21:18,640 --> 00:21:21,160
There would be timber
from the Baltic states,

406
00:21:21,160 --> 00:21:23,280
coal and lime going to Brechin...

407
00:21:23,280 --> 00:21:28,400
There was quite a flow of guano,
which was a phosphate fertiliser.

408
00:21:28,400 --> 00:21:30,840
Coming the other way, there'd be
agricultural produce...

409
00:21:30,840 --> 00:21:34,080
There was a manure works in Brechin
that collected it all together,

410
00:21:34,080 --> 00:21:36,320
and loaded it into wagons,
which went off to farmers,

411
00:21:36,320 --> 00:21:38,000
where it would be put
back in the field.

412
00:21:38,000 --> 00:21:40,360
Everything was recycled.

413
00:21:40,360 --> 00:21:44,040
Bird poo and, er...horse...
dropping.

414
00:21:44,040 --> 00:21:47,240
MICHAEL LAUGHS
The things they had to use
before agrochemicals came in.

415
00:21:47,240 --> 00:21:49,120
It's called organic these days.

416
00:21:49,120 --> 00:21:51,560
The Caledonian
was an eclectic railway,

417
00:21:51,560 --> 00:21:54,440
transporting agricultural
fertilisers,

418
00:21:54,440 --> 00:21:57,600
and with its proximity
to the castle at Balmoral,

419
00:21:57,600 --> 00:22:00,840
also the most precious passenger
of Bradshaw's day.

420
00:22:00,840 --> 00:22:01,880
Now...

421
00:22:01,880 --> 00:22:02,880
If you look...

422
00:22:02,880 --> 00:22:06,120
You see that row of trees down
the left hand side, Michael? Yes.

423
00:22:06,120 --> 00:22:09,400
They were planted
at Queen Victoria's request,

424
00:22:09,400 --> 00:22:11,160
because when she was going
to Balmoral,

425
00:22:11,160 --> 00:22:13,440
the Royal Train would stop here
for her breakfast

426
00:22:13,440 --> 00:22:15,880
and she didn't like the locals
seeing her eating.

427
00:22:15,880 --> 00:22:19,360
So they were planted on her request
and they're still here to this day.

428
00:22:19,360 --> 00:22:20,600
That's wonderful. You know...

429
00:22:20,600 --> 00:22:23,640
She usually, I think, stopped her
train when she was going to eat.

430
00:22:23,640 --> 00:22:27,080
She did not like particularly
to eat on the move.

431
00:22:27,080 --> 00:22:28,280
Whereas I love it.

432
00:22:34,560 --> 00:22:36,800
I've returned to Montrose Station

433
00:22:36,800 --> 00:22:40,320
to catch a train northbound
to my next destination.

434
00:22:45,400 --> 00:22:48,440
I'm now in Aberdeenshire,
and Bradshaw's tells me,

435
00:22:48,440 --> 00:22:50,440
"It forms the north east corner
of the island

436
00:22:50,440 --> 00:22:52,880
"to the easternmost point
of a triangle

437
00:22:52,880 --> 00:22:56,200
"which juts out
far into the German Ocean."

438
00:22:56,200 --> 00:22:58,200
Because of the conflicts
of the 20th century,

439
00:22:58,200 --> 00:23:00,560
that was renamed the North Sea,

440
00:23:00,560 --> 00:23:03,400
but the name of the city
where I'm going now, Aberdeen,

441
00:23:03,400 --> 00:23:05,040
is as durable as granite.

442
00:23:05,040 --> 00:23:06,720
And Bradshaw's tells me that,

443
00:23:06,720 --> 00:23:10,560
"It is white granite which gives
the city a handsome appearance.

444
00:23:10,560 --> 00:23:14,840
"The almost inexhaustible supplies
of this stone are close at hand."

445
00:23:14,840 --> 00:23:16,920
Well,
almost a century and a half later

446
00:23:16,920 --> 00:23:20,680
is a good time to find out just
how inexhaustible they've been.

447
00:23:22,160 --> 00:23:25,960
During the Middle Ages, the people
of Aberdeen lived from fishing,

448
00:23:25,960 --> 00:23:27,800
weaving, wool and leather.

449
00:23:29,240 --> 00:23:32,480
Recently, the oil and gas
found under the North Sea

450
00:23:32,480 --> 00:23:35,200
has made the city
a sort of Houston of Europe.

451
00:23:36,560 --> 00:23:38,440
But in Bradshaw's day,

452
00:23:38,440 --> 00:23:42,440
because of the unfailing supply
of another expensive mineral,

453
00:23:42,440 --> 00:23:44,440
Aberdeen was known
as the Granite City.

454
00:23:45,480 --> 00:23:49,720
'The town's Victorian buildings
are resplendent in it.'

455
00:23:51,600 --> 00:23:56,240
In a nearby quarry,
production manager Andy Henderson

456
00:23:56,240 --> 00:23:59,080
will show me how the stone
is extracted.

457
00:24:01,120 --> 00:24:05,240
Andy, it would be difficult to
describe the scale of this thing.

458
00:24:05,240 --> 00:24:08,000
Absolutely massive.

459
00:24:08,000 --> 00:24:10,520
Stretches hundreds of yards. Mm-hmm.

460
00:24:10,520 --> 00:24:12,720
Amazing sight.

461
00:24:12,720 --> 00:24:14,920
How many tonnes of rock are you
going to move today?

462
00:24:14,920 --> 00:24:16,320
23,000.

463
00:24:16,320 --> 00:24:19,200
And we have five tonnes' worth
of explosives to do that.

464
00:24:19,200 --> 00:24:21,840
ANDY LAUGHS
That is an enormous explosion.

465
00:24:21,840 --> 00:24:24,480
RADIO: 'Firing in 10 seconds.'

466
00:24:24,480 --> 00:24:26,800
10 seconds -
I must say, my heart is racing.

467
00:24:26,800 --> 00:24:28,520
ANDY LAUGHS

468
00:24:28,520 --> 00:24:30,720
Prepare to have the earth moved.

469
00:24:32,000 --> 00:24:33,480
EXPLOSION

470
00:24:33,480 --> 00:24:37,160
Lord! Look at that!

471
00:24:37,160 --> 00:24:40,720
It has changed the shape
of the quarry!

472
00:24:40,720 --> 00:24:44,360
It's brought down an unbelievable
amount of stuff.

473
00:24:44,360 --> 00:24:45,400
Wow!

474
00:24:45,400 --> 00:24:46,720
That's all there is to it.

475
00:24:46,720 --> 00:24:50,120
Just 23,000 tonnes that have moved
from one place to another. Mmmm.

476
00:24:50,120 --> 00:24:52,480
You could sell tickets to that,
couldn't you?
ANDY LAUGHS

477
00:24:52,480 --> 00:24:53,640
It's maybe a thought!

478
00:24:53,640 --> 00:24:56,240
Is the method similar to the
Victorian, then? Very similar.

479
00:24:56,240 --> 00:24:58,880
I think the explosives
are probably better,

480
00:24:58,880 --> 00:25:00,840
more efficient
than they were back then.

481
00:25:00,840 --> 00:25:03,680
We'll be boring larger holes,
if you like, than they would have,

482
00:25:03,680 --> 00:25:06,120
because in Victorian times,
they'd have been doing

483
00:25:06,120 --> 00:25:08,320
maybe inch-and-a-half holes,

484
00:25:08,320 --> 00:25:10,720
something approximately that size,
probably by hand.

485
00:25:10,720 --> 00:25:12,200
Now we're using a big drilling rig

486
00:25:12,200 --> 00:25:14,160
and putting in higher quality
explosives.

487
00:25:14,160 --> 00:25:17,280
Different sorts of explosives from
the Victorians? Definitely, yeah.

488
00:25:17,280 --> 00:25:20,240
Much more efficient.
We'll get more yield, if you like,

489
00:25:20,240 --> 00:25:22,440
for less explosives
than they would have had to use.

490
00:25:22,440 --> 00:25:24,920
And considerably safer now, as well.

491
00:25:24,920 --> 00:25:28,760
They'd have been transporting
explosives into the site

492
00:25:28,760 --> 00:25:30,520
as explosives, if you like.

493
00:25:30,520 --> 00:25:33,520
Here, we'll actually mix them
prior to them being necessary.

494
00:25:33,520 --> 00:25:34,600
Sounds a bit safer.

495
00:25:34,600 --> 00:25:35,960
Definitely.

496
00:25:37,000 --> 00:25:40,560
Aberdeen's granite industry
developed from the 18th century,

497
00:25:40,560 --> 00:25:45,320
with stone first sent to London
for paving in 1764.

498
00:25:45,320 --> 00:25:49,800
It formed the base of Trafalgar
Square's original fountains.

499
00:25:49,800 --> 00:25:53,880
As the industry expanded, materials
and skills were so plentiful

500
00:25:53,880 --> 00:25:57,720
that much of the city of Aberdeen
was constructed from the rock.

501
00:25:57,720 --> 00:26:01,760
Quarries were deep, so retrieving
the stone was a challenge.

502
00:26:01,760 --> 00:26:04,720
Before the steam-powered
derrick cranes of the 1880s,

503
00:26:04,720 --> 00:26:07,520
the industry relied upon
the invention

504
00:26:07,520 --> 00:26:10,320
of a local quarry owner, John Fyfe.

505
00:26:10,320 --> 00:26:14,000
His "Blondin," named after
a famous tightrope walker,

506
00:26:14,000 --> 00:26:17,440
consisted of steel cables
strung across the quarry

507
00:26:17,440 --> 00:26:18,920
which carried a trolley.

508
00:26:18,920 --> 00:26:22,080
From that, an enormous bucket
was lowered into the hole.

509
00:26:23,080 --> 00:26:25,360
The process is now mechanised.

510
00:26:25,360 --> 00:26:28,160
I wonder how much more stone
is left?

511
00:26:29,280 --> 00:26:32,840
Andy, my Bradshaw's guide
written more than a century ago

512
00:26:32,840 --> 00:26:35,960
predicts that these reserves
of granite are inexhaustible.

513
00:26:35,960 --> 00:26:37,360
Would you agree with that?

514
00:26:37,360 --> 00:26:39,160
Pretty much,
to be quite honest with you.

515
00:26:39,160 --> 00:26:42,480
I mean, here, the current extraction
rates at this quarry,

516
00:26:42,480 --> 00:26:45,680
you've got in excess of 150,
probably closer to double that -

517
00:26:45,680 --> 00:26:48,680
probably about 300 years.
That's a lot, isn't it?

518
00:26:48,680 --> 00:26:50,800
And then this is not the only
quarry, let's face it.

519
00:26:50,800 --> 00:26:52,160
It isn't, no, it isn't.

520
00:26:52,160 --> 00:26:55,240
It's probably one of the major
ones left in this area,

521
00:26:55,240 --> 00:26:56,960
but certainly not the only one.

522
00:26:56,960 --> 00:26:59,760
Many of the great
buildings of Aberdeen,

523
00:26:59,760 --> 00:27:03,280
and even many of the houses
are made of this sort of granite.

524
00:27:03,280 --> 00:27:05,600
It gives the city a very
distinctive look, doesn't it?

525
00:27:05,600 --> 00:27:08,800
Well, It's what it's called -
the Granite City, the Silver City -

526
00:27:08,800 --> 00:27:10,440
the one that sparkles back at you.

527
00:27:18,600 --> 00:27:20,800
This leg of my journey
has reminded me

528
00:27:20,800 --> 00:27:25,280
how much 19th century Scotland
depended on hard physical work -

529
00:27:25,280 --> 00:27:29,520
to heave the cargoes onto ships,
to weave the hessian in the mills,

530
00:27:29,520 --> 00:27:33,080
to quarry the granite
and to land the fish,

531
00:27:33,080 --> 00:27:37,880
and even as I discovered today,
to drive a locomotive.

532
00:27:37,880 --> 00:27:40,680
Our modern world owes a heavy debt

533
00:27:40,680 --> 00:27:45,560
to what the Victorians called
"the horny hands of toil."

534
00:27:46,720 --> 00:27:49,000
On the next leg of this journey,

535
00:27:49,000 --> 00:27:51,840
I ride the most northerly
heritage line in Britain.

536
00:27:54,120 --> 00:27:58,560
And I learn how Victorian whisky
trains were raided by robbers.

537
00:27:59,680 --> 00:28:03,040
Do you think anyone's spotted
us yet? I don't think so.
I'll keep an eye out, OK?

538
00:28:03,040 --> 00:28:06,520
I traverse one of Scotland's
most impressive viaducts.

539
00:28:06,520 --> 00:28:11,800
Really is a spectacular piece
of architecture and engineering.

540
00:28:11,800 --> 00:28:14,680
And I discover that life
isn't always sweet

541
00:28:14,680 --> 00:28:16,880
on a shortbread production line.

542
00:28:16,880 --> 00:28:19,080
Stop the conveyor belt,
I want to get off!

543
00:28:19,080 --> 00:28:20,120
SHE LAUGHS

544
00:28:23,120 --> 00:28:26,040
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