1 00:00:06,250 --> 00:00:10,970 In 1840, one man transformed travel in the British Isles. 2 00:00:10,970 --> 00:00:13,090 His name was George Bradshaw 3 00:00:13,090 --> 00:00:17,450 and his railway guides inspired the Victorians to take to the tracks. 4 00:00:19,290 --> 00:00:21,770 Stop by stop, he told them where to travel, 5 00:00:21,770 --> 00:00:24,330 what to see and where to stay. 6 00:00:24,330 --> 00:00:27,730 Now 170 years later, 7 00:00:27,730 --> 00:00:31,170 I'm making a series of journeys across the length and breadth 8 00:00:31,170 --> 00:00:35,410 of these isles to see what of Bradshaw's Britain remains. 9 00:00:59,770 --> 00:01:03,370 I'm now on the second stage of my journey from London to Devon. 10 00:01:03,370 --> 00:01:07,130 Today's leg takes me across Wiltshire and Somerset 11 00:01:07,130 --> 00:01:11,170 starting with some of the most iconic images of England. 12 00:01:12,410 --> 00:01:14,050 On today's leg, 13 00:01:14,050 --> 00:01:17,890 I visit a tourist hotspot that's been captivating visitors 14 00:01:17,890 --> 00:01:19,890 since the Victorian era. 15 00:01:19,890 --> 00:01:23,810 This is the granddaddy of all castles and cathedrals 16 00:01:23,810 --> 00:01:26,370 and skyscrapers, this is the beginning of architecture. 17 00:01:26,370 --> 00:01:27,890 Thank you very much. 18 00:01:27,890 --> 00:01:30,250 I take to the air... 19 00:01:30,250 --> 00:01:32,890 I think George Bradshaw would have loved this machine, 20 00:01:32,890 --> 00:01:35,010 but he would have been even more amazed to find out 21 00:01:35,010 --> 00:01:39,410 that there would be trains that went faster than this thing does. 22 00:01:39,410 --> 00:01:45,290 And I try my hand at cloth making, the 19th century way. 23 00:01:45,290 --> 00:01:48,690 This is more difficult than it looks. 24 00:01:48,690 --> 00:01:51,610 You're horsing around with me, aren't you? 25 00:01:51,610 --> 00:01:54,410 On this journey, I'm tracking the master engineer 26 00:01:54,410 --> 00:01:58,170 of the Great Western Railway, Isambard Kingdom Brunel. 27 00:01:58,170 --> 00:02:00,330 I began at one of his greatest successes, 28 00:02:00,330 --> 00:02:02,770 London's Paddington Station, 29 00:02:02,770 --> 00:02:05,650 and I'll end my journey in Newton Abbot, 30 00:02:05,650 --> 00:02:09,530 the scene of one of his most brilliant failures. 31 00:02:09,530 --> 00:02:12,210 This leg covers 51 miles. 32 00:02:12,210 --> 00:02:16,210 From Wiltshire, I'll venture into Somerset, finishing up at a station 33 00:02:16,210 --> 00:02:20,410 that for most of the year is a picture of peace and tranquillity. 34 00:02:22,570 --> 00:02:24,930 My first stop is Salisbury, whose cathedral 35 00:02:24,930 --> 00:02:27,570 with its slender spire, has attracted the admiration 36 00:02:27,570 --> 00:02:32,010 of visitors over centuries including the author of my Bradshaw's guide. 37 00:02:32,010 --> 00:02:35,890 "It has the great advantage of being not only uniform in design, 38 00:02:35,890 --> 00:02:39,690 "but offers a complete specimen of the style of that age, 39 00:02:39,690 --> 00:02:42,210 "namely early English", 40 00:02:42,210 --> 00:02:46,810 and in my view that style is one of unsurpassed elegance. 41 00:02:52,090 --> 00:02:57,370 The cathedral was begun in 1220 and the main body completed in 38 years. 42 00:02:57,370 --> 00:03:00,330 An astonishing feat when you consider its scale. 43 00:03:01,690 --> 00:03:04,450 The spire, the tallest in the United Kingdom, 44 00:03:04,450 --> 00:03:06,450 was added over 50 years later 45 00:03:06,450 --> 00:03:10,490 and has proudly presided over the city for 700 years. 46 00:03:29,370 --> 00:03:31,730 The artist John Constable made this vista famous 47 00:03:31,730 --> 00:03:35,570 of what Bradshaw's describes as "a magnificent edifice 48 00:03:35,570 --> 00:03:39,250 "begun by Bishop Poore", but then my Bradshaw strikes a different note 49 00:03:39,250 --> 00:03:41,690 saying "unfortunately the city lies low 50 00:03:41,690 --> 00:03:44,130 "and though its water meadows are pleasant to look at, 51 00:03:44,130 --> 00:03:48,210 "the courts in which the poor live are in a filthy state". 52 00:03:48,210 --> 00:03:52,410 Evidently there was more to Salisbury than met the artist's eye. 53 00:03:55,490 --> 00:03:58,330 Despite being founded in the 13th century, 54 00:03:58,330 --> 00:04:01,810 Salisbury could in fact best be described as a new town, 55 00:04:01,810 --> 00:04:05,050 a "medieval Milton Keynes". 56 00:04:05,050 --> 00:04:07,890 The original settlement, known as Old Sarum, 57 00:04:07,890 --> 00:04:10,210 was located on a hill to the north. 58 00:04:10,210 --> 00:04:14,250 However, in 1220, deteriorating relationships 59 00:04:14,250 --> 00:04:17,010 between the clergy of Old Sarum and the military 60 00:04:17,010 --> 00:04:19,410 led to a new cathedral being built here 61 00:04:19,410 --> 00:04:23,730 and a new city purposefully designed and set around it. 62 00:04:26,170 --> 00:04:29,210 The new city of Salisbury was built on a series of chequers, 63 00:04:29,210 --> 00:04:33,490 a grid system a bit reminiscent of a modern American city. 64 00:04:33,490 --> 00:04:37,370 My Bradshaw's says most of the streets are laid out straight 65 00:04:37,370 --> 00:04:41,210 and regular with rilles four or five foot broad 66 00:04:41,210 --> 00:04:44,450 running through them from the Avon, Nadder and Wylye 67 00:04:44,450 --> 00:04:47,370 and it was these rilles or water channels 68 00:04:47,370 --> 00:04:51,530 that gave so many health problems in Victorian England. 69 00:04:51,530 --> 00:04:55,650 In the summer of 1849, the medieval water system 70 00:04:55,650 --> 00:04:59,850 carrying human waste led to a devastating cholera epidemic 71 00:04:59,850 --> 00:05:02,930 that killed nearly 200 citizens. 72 00:05:04,130 --> 00:05:08,370 I'm meeting Adrian Green, curator of the Salisbury and Wiltshire Museum. 73 00:05:10,010 --> 00:05:12,570 Adrian, good morning. Hello, pleasure to meet you, 74 00:05:12,570 --> 00:05:15,450 I'm getting an extraordinary impression of Salisbury 75 00:05:15,450 --> 00:05:19,210 in the middle 19th century, the poor in their courts 76 00:05:19,210 --> 00:05:22,050 living in filthy conditions, what's Bradshaw's referring to? 77 00:05:22,050 --> 00:05:24,810 He's referring to the places where people used to live 78 00:05:24,810 --> 00:05:27,530 in the middle of the 19th century, which they actually lived in 79 00:05:27,530 --> 00:05:31,170 going right back into Medieval Times. Filthy, filthy conditions. 80 00:05:31,170 --> 00:05:33,370 And there were these rilles, these water channels 81 00:05:33,370 --> 00:05:36,050 criss-crossing the city - a kind of Amsterdam, was it? 82 00:05:36,050 --> 00:05:38,810 That's right, it was often referred to as an English Venice, 83 00:05:38,810 --> 00:05:41,930 but that was somewhat glamorising the situation because these rilles 84 00:05:41,930 --> 00:05:44,770 were basically open sewers, running through the streets. 85 00:05:44,770 --> 00:05:47,650 And so that gave rise to the health problems, to cholera? 86 00:05:47,650 --> 00:05:51,090 That's right, because there was no organised water supply in Salisbury. 87 00:05:51,090 --> 00:05:55,170 People got their water supply from the ground, right by where these rilles or water channels were. 88 00:05:55,170 --> 00:05:58,050 So dirt would seep into the ground and people would then get their 89 00:05:58,050 --> 00:06:01,530 own drinking water from the very same place that all the dirt was. 90 00:06:01,530 --> 00:06:04,490 Was it well understood that the cholera was coming from the water? 91 00:06:04,490 --> 00:06:07,770 People were beginning to understand that. There were local doctors 92 00:06:07,770 --> 00:06:10,770 who were beginning to pick up on the idea that cholera 93 00:06:10,770 --> 00:06:14,010 seemed to be concentrated where these open water channels were. 94 00:06:14,010 --> 00:06:17,090 And they petitioned the local council to do something about it, 95 00:06:17,090 --> 00:06:19,770 but nothing happened so they went one stage higher. 96 00:06:19,770 --> 00:06:23,610 They went to the National Board of Health in London, to the government inspector 97 00:06:23,610 --> 00:06:27,890 and they invited down a man called Thomas Rammell, who did an inquiry 98 00:06:27,890 --> 00:06:32,330 to find out what the causes were of the terrible conditions in Salisbury. 99 00:06:32,330 --> 00:06:36,570 This enquiry was carried out in 1851 and determined that disease 100 00:06:36,570 --> 00:06:38,810 did indeed arise from the rilles, 101 00:06:38,810 --> 00:06:42,210 and recommended that the 700-year-old waterways 102 00:06:42,210 --> 00:06:45,330 be replaced with subterranean brick-built sewers. 103 00:06:45,330 --> 00:06:49,650 A mammoth engineering project which would take years. 104 00:06:49,650 --> 00:06:53,210 However, in the process of removing the old water channels, 105 00:06:53,210 --> 00:06:57,250 the Victorian workmen unearthed hoards of archaeological treasures. 106 00:06:58,530 --> 00:07:02,450 To keep the artefacts in Salisbury, a museum was founded 107 00:07:02,450 --> 00:07:05,010 and that's where the collection is now housed. 108 00:07:05,010 --> 00:07:10,330 And here we have some of drainage collection on display. 109 00:07:10,330 --> 00:07:15,890 It looks like a fantastic collection of everyday items - spoons and knives and forks and scissors. 110 00:07:15,890 --> 00:07:18,090 That's right. It's a real snapshot of daily life, 111 00:07:18,090 --> 00:07:19,850 going back through the Middle Ages. 112 00:07:19,850 --> 00:07:23,170 And in particular, they have a very fine collection of pilgrim badges 113 00:07:23,170 --> 00:07:25,970 which date back to the Medieval period before the Reformation. 114 00:07:25,970 --> 00:07:28,770 And why are these things so nicely preserved? 115 00:07:28,770 --> 00:07:31,450 It's basically because they fell into the mud in the bottom 116 00:07:31,450 --> 00:07:33,610 of the water channels and there was no oxygen there. 117 00:07:33,610 --> 00:07:35,690 It slowed down the process of decay. 118 00:07:35,690 --> 00:07:38,850 Objects made out of things like pewter, for example, 119 00:07:38,850 --> 00:07:41,210 which would normally rot away and deteriorate, 120 00:07:41,210 --> 00:07:44,610 in this case have survived, and to an exceptional level of preservation. 121 00:07:44,610 --> 00:07:46,610 Well, it's really a very fine collection. 122 00:07:46,610 --> 00:07:48,570 Yes, it is an absolutely fine collection. 123 00:07:48,570 --> 00:07:51,530 Let's go and look at some of the others in storage. OK, fantastic. 124 00:07:51,530 --> 00:07:55,170 I thought I'd show you one of my favourite pieces 125 00:07:55,170 --> 00:07:57,650 which is a fabulous chess piece. 126 00:07:57,650 --> 00:07:59,770 That is exquisite. What's that made of? 127 00:07:59,770 --> 00:08:03,090 It's made of walrus ivory. It dates back to the 13th century, 128 00:08:03,090 --> 00:08:06,970 which is about the time that Salisbury Cathedral was constructed. 129 00:08:06,970 --> 00:08:09,610 It's a king piece, as you can see he's wearing his crown, 130 00:08:09,610 --> 00:08:10,650 sitting on horseback 131 00:08:10,650 --> 00:08:13,210 and then protected by a whole series of foot-soldiers. 132 00:08:13,210 --> 00:08:14,890 Absolutely beautiful. 133 00:08:14,890 --> 00:08:18,090 Your collection really is of a national standard, isn't it? 134 00:08:18,090 --> 00:08:19,370 That's right, it is. 135 00:08:19,370 --> 00:08:22,290 We are designated by the Department of Culture, Media and Sport 136 00:08:22,290 --> 00:08:24,250 because our collections are so important 137 00:08:24,250 --> 00:08:26,850 and one of the main reasons is because of this collection. 138 00:08:35,370 --> 00:08:38,170 For more than century and a half railway passengers have been 139 00:08:38,170 --> 00:08:41,610 attracted to Salisbury, not just for its magnificent cathedral, 140 00:08:41,610 --> 00:08:46,970 but also because of its proximity to of one of the world's most enigmatic ancient historic sites, 141 00:08:46,970 --> 00:08:48,530 to which I'm headed now. 142 00:09:17,130 --> 00:09:22,010 Bradshaw's says, "Salisbury Plain is a turfy naked tract. 143 00:09:22,010 --> 00:09:26,570 "In the flattest and most solitary part are the celebrated Druids' Circles of Stonehenge." 144 00:09:26,570 --> 00:09:28,530 Bradshaw's admits that it's ever been 145 00:09:28,530 --> 00:09:32,170 considered the greatest wonder in west of England, but then says 146 00:09:32,170 --> 00:09:35,730 "Stonehenge is apt to disappoint the stranger at the first sight 147 00:09:35,730 --> 00:09:37,730 "and to some it is a trifle indeed." 148 00:09:37,730 --> 00:09:39,650 Well, it may not be built on the scale 149 00:09:39,650 --> 00:09:44,450 of a Victorian railway station, but I'm impressed by its antiquity. 150 00:09:57,050 --> 00:09:59,290 Hello, do you like Stonehenge? Yes! 151 00:09:59,290 --> 00:10:03,770 I'm reading a Victorian guide book, a 19th-century guide book. 152 00:10:03,770 --> 00:10:08,010 It says, "Stonehenge can disappoint the stranger at first sight." 153 00:10:08,010 --> 00:10:11,170 Do you agree with that? Do you find it disappointing? 154 00:10:11,170 --> 00:10:13,250 No, not at all. Where have you come from? 155 00:10:13,250 --> 00:10:14,810 I've come from Florida. 156 00:10:14,810 --> 00:10:18,370 Ah, well, that's very interesting because my guidebook also says 157 00:10:18,370 --> 00:10:21,250 that in the 19th century an American came here and looked at it, 158 00:10:21,250 --> 00:10:25,330 looked up at the stones on top of each other and wondered that 159 00:10:25,330 --> 00:10:28,530 anyone should think anything of it at all. How do you react to that? 160 00:10:28,530 --> 00:10:30,170 He's an idiot! 161 00:10:30,170 --> 00:10:32,010 MICHAEL LAUGHS 162 00:10:32,010 --> 00:10:35,930 So what's your reaction? Have you been moved to see it? 163 00:10:35,930 --> 00:10:37,490 Yeah, I mean, I'm here. 164 00:10:37,490 --> 00:10:40,810 I've paid money to fly across the country to see it. 165 00:10:40,810 --> 00:10:43,290 It's just as astounding as a pyramid. 166 00:10:43,290 --> 00:10:46,890 So you have not been disappointed? Not at all. 167 00:10:46,890 --> 00:10:51,650 Well, you've rescued the reputation of your nation, well done! OK. 168 00:10:51,650 --> 00:10:56,010 I'm so relieved to discover that nowadays an American has come here 169 00:10:56,010 --> 00:10:58,890 and expressed the proper sense of awe. 170 00:10:58,890 --> 00:11:02,050 George Bradshaw ought to know about this. 171 00:11:02,050 --> 00:11:06,090 One of the most recognisable ancient monuments on the planet, 172 00:11:06,090 --> 00:11:11,610 Stonehenge has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1986. 173 00:11:11,610 --> 00:11:14,050 The true significance of this antiquity has become 174 00:11:14,050 --> 00:11:17,890 confused in the mists of time, but there are plenty of theories 175 00:11:17,890 --> 00:11:21,570 and I'm hoping that Blue Badge guide and expert David Richards 176 00:11:21,570 --> 00:11:23,370 will be able to enlighten me. 177 00:11:24,610 --> 00:11:26,570 Hello, David. Hello, Michael. 178 00:11:26,570 --> 00:11:29,130 I've been steered here as usual by my Bradshaw's Guide, 179 00:11:29,130 --> 00:11:32,650 which tells me that this is Druids' Circles, is that correct? 180 00:11:32,650 --> 00:11:36,810 Sadly not so. The Druids are a Victorian construct. 181 00:11:36,810 --> 00:11:40,930 This was built by people 5,000 years ago, long before the Druids. 182 00:11:40,930 --> 00:11:45,130 And they had to bring these stones a long distance, that's the wonder of it, isn't it? 183 00:11:45,130 --> 00:11:47,330 It is, astonishing that these stones 184 00:11:47,330 --> 00:11:51,410 weighing 30-40 tonnes should be dragged 25 miles from the north, 185 00:11:51,410 --> 00:11:54,250 some of them coming - the smaller ones - from South Wales. 186 00:11:54,250 --> 00:11:56,490 And the purpose of building this was religious? 187 00:11:56,490 --> 00:11:57,970 Yes, I'm sure it was. 188 00:11:57,970 --> 00:12:00,530 With the setting of the midwinter sun and the rising 189 00:12:00,530 --> 00:12:05,410 of the summer solstice, I'm sure it was used for religious purposes. 190 00:12:05,410 --> 00:12:08,250 And what else? Well, it is one of the biggest, 191 00:12:08,250 --> 00:12:12,130 if not THE biggest ancient cemetery. 200 people are buried there. 192 00:12:12,130 --> 00:12:14,370 The place is very popular with tourists today, 193 00:12:14,370 --> 00:12:16,810 but I think it was in the Victorian era too, wasn't it? 194 00:12:16,810 --> 00:12:19,650 Absolutely, yes. The railways did that. 195 00:12:19,650 --> 00:12:25,250 When the railways come to Salisbury in 1847, everything is transformed. 196 00:12:25,250 --> 00:12:29,250 The South Western Railway advertises in the Times of London, 197 00:12:29,250 --> 00:12:33,810 "Go to Stonehenge. It'll cost you three and sixpence in an open carriage", 198 00:12:33,810 --> 00:12:37,170 an open carriage, good gracious, on a day like this! 199 00:12:37,170 --> 00:12:39,770 And the Victorians came in multitudes. 200 00:12:39,770 --> 00:12:42,210 Day-trippers coming to party and to picnic. 201 00:12:46,650 --> 00:12:50,770 Just like today's tourists, they also wanted a snapshot. 202 00:12:50,770 --> 00:12:54,570 The earliest photograph of the stones dates back to 1853 203 00:12:54,570 --> 00:12:56,810 and was owned by Prince Albert himself, 204 00:12:56,810 --> 00:13:00,250 but by the end of the century thanks to advances in technology 205 00:13:00,250 --> 00:13:03,610 and the canniness of one guide, William Judd, 206 00:13:03,610 --> 00:13:06,850 an instant souvenir was accessible to all. 207 00:13:06,850 --> 00:13:10,290 Armed with a camera, he set up a mobile studio 208 00:13:10,290 --> 00:13:13,490 and darkroom on the site and, for the right price of course, 209 00:13:13,490 --> 00:13:15,970 he would oblige visitors with a souvenir print. 210 00:13:17,530 --> 00:13:21,610 Bradshaw's also tells me that there are about 140 stones, 211 00:13:21,610 --> 00:13:25,170 but it's impossible to count them and if you count them twice 212 00:13:25,170 --> 00:13:27,930 and get the same number twice, that's unlucky. 213 00:13:27,930 --> 00:13:31,010 Well, that's a myth which is still told today. 214 00:13:31,010 --> 00:13:33,170 Is it really? But the Victorians, mind you, 215 00:13:33,170 --> 00:13:35,610 when they came they got into all sorts of trouble 216 00:13:35,610 --> 00:13:38,370 because people had read that, and they'd come here, 217 00:13:38,370 --> 00:13:40,410 they'd say "I'm going to crack this," 218 00:13:40,410 --> 00:13:42,730 and they'd go round and they'd chalk the stones, 219 00:13:42,730 --> 00:13:44,650 so the stones were covered in numbers, 220 00:13:44,650 --> 00:13:48,770 which local people didn't like. Victorian vandalism. Oh, absolutely. 221 00:13:48,770 --> 00:13:50,850 It wasn't good, and so... 222 00:13:50,850 --> 00:13:54,810 but the worst vandalism of all was that 223 00:13:54,810 --> 00:13:59,170 people would arrive from London, I suspect, with hammers 224 00:13:59,170 --> 00:14:03,610 and they would whack the stones and take a chunk of it back home. 225 00:14:03,610 --> 00:14:06,530 And so the railways and Stonehenge ultimately led to 226 00:14:06,530 --> 00:14:10,050 the Ancient Monuments Protection Act of 1882. 227 00:14:10,050 --> 00:14:13,730 What is the importance of Stonehenge in the human story? 228 00:14:13,730 --> 00:14:17,010 This is the granddaddy of all castles and cathedrals 229 00:14:17,010 --> 00:14:19,690 and skyscrapers, this is the beginning of architecture. 230 00:14:22,330 --> 00:14:26,010 I could linger all day by these enduringly fascinating stones, 231 00:14:26,010 --> 00:14:27,610 but I must continue. 232 00:14:27,610 --> 00:14:31,250 I'm returning to Salisbury to travel on an alternative line 233 00:14:31,250 --> 00:14:32,490 to the Great Western. 234 00:14:43,250 --> 00:14:45,890 I'm on my way now to Yeovil Junction. 235 00:14:45,890 --> 00:14:49,370 My guide tells me that the town has a fine Gothic church 236 00:14:49,370 --> 00:14:52,410 and a large market which occurs on Fridays. 237 00:14:52,410 --> 00:14:57,090 In the vicinity is Brympton House, the old seat of the Fane family. 238 00:14:57,090 --> 00:15:00,530 Well, the present owners have invited me to dinner. 239 00:15:15,130 --> 00:15:19,010 There has been a manor at Brympton since 1220. 240 00:15:19,010 --> 00:15:22,290 However, the current house dates from the early 15th century, 241 00:15:22,290 --> 00:15:24,770 with Elizabethan and Jacobean additions. 242 00:15:26,130 --> 00:15:29,770 It's built in its entirety from local Somerset hamstone, 243 00:15:29,770 --> 00:15:32,810 which gives the house its mellow, honeyed hue. 244 00:15:35,450 --> 00:15:36,730 What a beautiful house! 245 00:15:38,690 --> 00:15:42,530 I'm meeting current owner and old acquaintance, Bill Glossop. 246 00:15:44,010 --> 00:15:45,410 Bill, how good to see you. 247 00:15:45,410 --> 00:15:48,250 Hello, nice to see you. Long time since we've met. 248 00:15:48,250 --> 00:15:50,490 Long time. Do come in. Thank you so much. 249 00:15:54,610 --> 00:15:57,810 One of the most interesting things about the house is this 250 00:15:57,810 --> 00:16:01,290 wonderful terrace which...people who come here for weddings 251 00:16:01,290 --> 00:16:04,130 love to come straight out of the wedding room 252 00:16:04,130 --> 00:16:06,530 and have a glass of champagne on here. 253 00:16:06,530 --> 00:16:11,370 It was built by Lady Georgiana Fane in Victorian times 254 00:16:11,370 --> 00:16:15,330 and it was she who sold the land for the railway 255 00:16:15,330 --> 00:16:20,130 which runs between Yeovil and Taunton which has now been made into a road. 256 00:16:21,370 --> 00:16:25,010 The spread of the Victorian railway network was largely dependent 257 00:16:25,010 --> 00:16:27,850 on local landowners like Lady Georgiana 258 00:16:27,850 --> 00:16:30,170 agreeing to sell their land. 259 00:16:30,170 --> 00:16:34,170 Whether they championed this new mode of transport or held out 260 00:16:34,170 --> 00:16:37,410 in order to make substantial gain, without their agreement, 261 00:16:37,410 --> 00:16:41,050 large swathes of countryside would have remained inaccessible. 262 00:16:43,730 --> 00:16:46,930 Thank you so much, Bill, for having us. Lovely to see you all. 263 00:16:46,930 --> 00:16:47,890 And you. Cheers! 264 00:16:59,770 --> 00:17:02,410 It's a new day and before I leave Yeovil, 265 00:17:02,410 --> 00:17:04,410 I have further exploring to do. 266 00:17:08,890 --> 00:17:11,730 Bradshaw's tell me that Yeovil is an ancient town, 267 00:17:11,730 --> 00:17:14,250 the seat of a considerable glove trade. 268 00:17:14,250 --> 00:17:17,450 Nowadays the town has its finger in a bigger pie 269 00:17:17,450 --> 00:17:21,530 and for a rural county, manufacturing here has really taken off. 270 00:17:24,130 --> 00:17:30,330 Yeovil is now home to the UK's sole helicopter producer, AgustaWestland. 271 00:17:30,330 --> 00:17:33,850 The company's origins can be traced back to the late 19th century 272 00:17:33,850 --> 00:17:37,730 when it was founded by the Petter brothers, Ernest and Percy. 273 00:17:40,490 --> 00:17:42,730 Westland helicopters has a particular place 274 00:17:42,730 --> 00:17:47,090 in my personal experience and indeed in political history 275 00:17:47,090 --> 00:17:50,170 because an order for helicopters led to a massive row 276 00:17:50,170 --> 00:17:54,210 in Margaret Thatcher's Cabinet, the resignation of Michael Heseltine 277 00:17:54,210 --> 00:17:56,250 who stormed out of the Cabinet room, 278 00:17:56,250 --> 00:17:59,450 and very nearly the demise of Margaret Thatcher herself. 279 00:18:03,730 --> 00:18:07,570 'Today I'm meeting up with employee of 20 years, Ted Udall, 280 00:18:07,570 --> 00:18:10,650 'to find out how this firm took flight.' 281 00:18:10,650 --> 00:18:12,490 Ted, good morning. Morning, Michael. 282 00:18:12,490 --> 00:18:16,130 I believe this Westland goes all the way back to Victorian times? 283 00:18:16,130 --> 00:18:17,490 Yes, indeed - the 1860s. 284 00:18:17,490 --> 00:18:20,610 It started off as a little hardware shop in centre of Yeovil. 285 00:18:20,610 --> 00:18:26,290 It gradually expanded from there into stoves, 286 00:18:26,290 --> 00:18:29,410 and then later on into agricultural machinery. 287 00:18:29,410 --> 00:18:31,370 When did they get into aircraft? 288 00:18:31,370 --> 00:18:34,610 Well, it wasn't until the start of the First World War 289 00:18:34,610 --> 00:18:39,850 when Lloyd George made a speech in the House where they needed more armaments, 290 00:18:39,850 --> 00:18:43,730 and more support for the war. And the management of the company 291 00:18:43,730 --> 00:18:47,610 decided to write off to the Admiralty and the War Office 292 00:18:47,610 --> 00:18:50,690 and the Admiralty said, "Well, please come and see us." 293 00:18:50,690 --> 00:18:54,530 From that they said, "Well, you're a high-tech company, why don't you build aeroplanes?" 294 00:18:56,770 --> 00:19:01,650 The firm was originally commissioned to build 30 Short patrol seaplanes. 295 00:19:01,650 --> 00:19:06,330 Production was so successful that by 1918 the Petters had built their own airfield 296 00:19:06,330 --> 00:19:11,690 and 1,100 planes had rolled off the production line. 297 00:19:11,690 --> 00:19:15,650 With the end of the war, they diversified into civil aircraft, 298 00:19:15,650 --> 00:19:19,410 but peace was to be short-lived and during the Second World War 299 00:19:19,410 --> 00:19:23,650 they manufactured the most iconic of British fighters - the Spitfire. 300 00:19:24,810 --> 00:19:27,090 But now the business is helicopters. 301 00:19:27,090 --> 00:19:29,490 Yes, indeed, since 1946. 302 00:19:29,490 --> 00:19:33,130 So give me a quick rundown of which helicopters you deal with. 303 00:19:33,130 --> 00:19:35,650 In here we've got Sea Kings which are being refurbished. 304 00:19:35,650 --> 00:19:38,010 They've been in service quite a long time now. 305 00:19:38,010 --> 00:19:40,330 We've got Merlin helicopters on this side 306 00:19:40,330 --> 00:19:42,370 which are the current Royal Navy ones. 307 00:19:42,370 --> 00:19:46,530 And we've got the Lynx and its replacement, the Wildcat. 308 00:19:46,530 --> 00:19:50,170 My Bradshaw's guide mentions that Yeovil was once famous for glove-making. 309 00:19:50,170 --> 00:19:52,810 It really is a long way from glove-making to aircraft. 310 00:19:52,810 --> 00:19:55,730 Yes, it certainly is, but of course that was one of reasons why 311 00:19:55,730 --> 00:19:59,130 the company decided that they could go into aircraft making anyway. 312 00:19:59,130 --> 00:20:03,010 One of the local skills, part of the glove-making industry, is sewing. 313 00:20:03,010 --> 00:20:05,810 And aircraft, in those very early days, 314 00:20:05,810 --> 00:20:09,090 you had to spread canvas over the wooden frame and sew it together. 315 00:20:09,090 --> 00:20:11,330 So that gave the company that confidence. 316 00:20:11,330 --> 00:20:16,330 'The early success of the factory was very much linked 317 00:20:16,330 --> 00:20:19,450 'to its proximity to Yeovil's complex rail network, 318 00:20:19,450 --> 00:20:23,570 'so I'm taking to the skies to survey how it looks today. 319 00:20:23,570 --> 00:20:31,490 'My lift - a twin-engine AW109, used for VIP travel and air ambulances.' 320 00:20:31,490 --> 00:20:33,370 Riding alongside the train now. 321 00:20:33,370 --> 00:20:37,290 It seems that Yeovil once was pretty much criss-crossed by railways. 322 00:20:37,290 --> 00:20:42,570 Yes, indeed it was. The original railway came in from the west 323 00:20:42,570 --> 00:20:46,730 and then the other line came in from the north to the south. 324 00:20:46,730 --> 00:20:50,490 And there were, at one point, four separate railway stations, 325 00:20:50,490 --> 00:20:53,170 including the one on the main east-west line 326 00:20:53,170 --> 00:20:57,010 which runs a couple of miles south of the town. Amazing. 327 00:20:58,810 --> 00:21:03,090 I think George Bradshaw, who loved engineering and innovation, 328 00:21:03,090 --> 00:21:04,610 would have loved this machine, 329 00:21:04,610 --> 00:21:06,930 but he would have been even more amazed to find out 330 00:21:06,930 --> 00:21:11,530 that there would be trains that went faster than this thing does. 331 00:21:11,530 --> 00:21:14,810 He certainly would, yes. The technology has moved on a pace. 332 00:21:16,210 --> 00:21:21,770 Sadly, it's back down to earth for me as I continue the journey westwards. 333 00:21:21,770 --> 00:21:24,890 I'm leaving Yeovil from its only other surviving station, 334 00:21:24,890 --> 00:21:29,010 Pen Mill, where I've rejoined Brunel's Great Western railway. 335 00:21:32,770 --> 00:21:36,450 My next stop is Castle Cary which my Bradshaw's tells me 336 00:21:36,450 --> 00:21:41,490 has the remains of a castle built by William de Percheval in the reign of King Stephen. 337 00:21:41,490 --> 00:21:44,010 I've always thought it a very beautiful name 338 00:21:44,010 --> 00:21:48,370 and I assumed that it must be one of England's sleepiest stations. 339 00:21:52,450 --> 00:21:55,490 It's certainly a picture of peace and tranquillity. 340 00:21:56,570 --> 00:21:59,250 And I'm told that on any normal day, 341 00:21:59,250 --> 00:22:03,050 Castle Cary is used by fewer than 800 passengers. 342 00:22:03,050 --> 00:22:05,770 'However for a few days in June most years, 343 00:22:05,770 --> 00:22:08,530 'that figure rises dramatically. 344 00:22:08,530 --> 00:22:13,570 'I'm going to meet station manager Dave Martin to find out why.' 345 00:22:13,570 --> 00:22:15,210 Dave, hello. 346 00:22:15,210 --> 00:22:19,250 Congratulations on a lovely station, and a very quiet one too. 347 00:22:19,250 --> 00:22:21,130 Thank you very much. 348 00:22:21,130 --> 00:22:24,210 It seems to be quite quiet today, but it's not always. 349 00:22:24,210 --> 00:22:28,610 We're the closest station to the site for the Glastonbury festival 350 00:22:28,610 --> 00:22:31,850 so it turns into quite an entertaining place to be. 351 00:22:31,850 --> 00:22:33,490 Lots of people coming by train? 352 00:22:33,490 --> 00:22:37,530 Absolutely. About 18,000 people coming through the station to go to the festival. 353 00:22:37,530 --> 00:22:39,610 It's hard to imagine in this little station. 354 00:22:39,610 --> 00:22:41,810 It is. It takes a lot of organising, 355 00:22:41,810 --> 00:22:44,290 and they all want to go back on the same day as well. 356 00:22:44,290 --> 00:22:46,130 And they'd all be well behaved, of course. 357 00:22:46,130 --> 00:22:48,370 The majority are. 358 00:22:48,370 --> 00:22:51,570 One or two seem to think they can turn up without a ticket. 359 00:22:51,570 --> 00:22:53,130 So, what ploys do they try? 360 00:22:53,130 --> 00:22:57,490 Occasionally, a few people will come from very local stations 361 00:22:57,490 --> 00:23:00,490 that aren't that well populated. 362 00:23:00,490 --> 00:23:03,170 And somebody came along who'd obviously glanced out of the window 363 00:23:03,170 --> 00:23:06,330 at Bruton station that they'd gone through, but not quite caught the name. 364 00:23:06,330 --> 00:23:09,850 We asked him where he'd come from and he said Buxton 365 00:23:09,850 --> 00:23:12,570 so we were quite happy to charge him £96. 366 00:23:15,330 --> 00:23:18,250 Long before the music fans began to pass through here, 367 00:23:18,250 --> 00:23:21,810 Castle Cary was better known for its textile industry. 368 00:23:23,970 --> 00:23:25,490 By the 19th century, 369 00:23:25,490 --> 00:23:28,410 the town specialised in producing a hard-wearing 370 00:23:28,410 --> 00:23:32,650 luxury fabric made, remarkably, using horsehair. 371 00:23:32,650 --> 00:23:37,250 And one company survives manufacturing the material 372 00:23:37,250 --> 00:23:39,530 just as it did 140 years ago. 373 00:23:41,090 --> 00:23:44,210 Anna Smith is the managing director. 374 00:23:44,210 --> 00:23:46,690 Anna, hello. Hello, hi. It's good to see you. 375 00:23:46,690 --> 00:23:47,850 So this is horsehair. 376 00:23:47,850 --> 00:23:50,890 I wondered whether I would recognise it, but I certainly do. 377 00:23:50,890 --> 00:23:53,930 Yes, that's right. It's the tail hair from horses, working horses, 378 00:23:53,930 --> 00:23:57,370 live animals that have their tails cut. 379 00:23:57,370 --> 00:24:01,090 And what do you actually do with it? We weave it into upholstery fabric. 380 00:24:01,090 --> 00:24:03,490 And what are the advantages of that? 381 00:24:03,490 --> 00:24:06,130 It's a very durable, hard-wearing fabric. 382 00:24:06,130 --> 00:24:09,770 It'll last more than 100 years if it's properly upholstered. 383 00:24:09,770 --> 00:24:11,570 And how long has this factory been going? 384 00:24:11,570 --> 00:24:15,450 The company's been going since 1837. It was started by John Boyd, 385 00:24:15,450 --> 00:24:18,210 he was a travelling Scotsman who came down to this area. 386 00:24:18,210 --> 00:24:20,530 How unusual is it now to produce horsehair? 387 00:24:20,530 --> 00:24:22,770 There's only two of us left in the world, that's us 388 00:24:22,770 --> 00:24:25,690 and there's a company in France and that's it now. 389 00:24:25,690 --> 00:24:27,850 I'm intrigued to see this industrial process. 390 00:24:27,850 --> 00:24:30,090 Can we go in and have a look at it? Yes, certainly. 391 00:24:31,210 --> 00:24:33,450 'First, the hair has to be straightened.' 392 00:24:34,810 --> 00:24:38,410 That looks like a bed of nails. I'm not required to lie on it, am I? 393 00:24:38,410 --> 00:24:43,490 No, but we pull the hair through it. It's called a hackle. 394 00:24:43,490 --> 00:24:45,330 What's the technique, Duncan? 395 00:24:45,330 --> 00:24:49,370 Hold it tight there, start with the ends, gradually pull them through. 396 00:24:49,370 --> 00:24:51,010 Mind if I have a go at that? 397 00:24:51,010 --> 00:24:53,410 Start with the ends. Yeah. 398 00:24:55,250 --> 00:24:57,570 Ooh, that's not so good, is it? 399 00:24:57,570 --> 00:24:59,650 This is more difficult that it looked. 400 00:24:59,650 --> 00:25:01,570 You're horsing around with me, aren't you? 401 00:25:01,570 --> 00:25:04,010 It takes a little bit of practice. 402 00:25:04,010 --> 00:25:06,010 So how long do you do this for, Duncan? 403 00:25:06,010 --> 00:25:07,650 Just a couple of minutes. It depends. 404 00:25:07,650 --> 00:25:09,810 You can feel when it goes through easily. 405 00:25:12,530 --> 00:25:17,690 It's tougher than it looks, actually. 406 00:25:17,690 --> 00:25:20,410 Ah, that's better. 407 00:25:20,410 --> 00:25:22,890 I'm getting better, aren't I? Oh, yes. 408 00:25:24,290 --> 00:25:27,970 How I learned to hackle. Thereby hangs a tail. It'll do. 409 00:25:27,970 --> 00:25:32,170 It needs a little bit more work before the weavers get it! 410 00:25:33,250 --> 00:25:35,450 'I think I had better leave it to the pros. 411 00:25:36,570 --> 00:25:39,970 'The hair is then dyed, a process which takes a week. 412 00:25:39,970 --> 00:25:42,610 'The length of the fabric is made up from cotton, 413 00:25:42,610 --> 00:25:46,730 'silk or linen threads wound on what's called a warper 414 00:25:46,730 --> 00:25:50,970 'whilst the bundles of horsehair are placed directly on the loom 415 00:25:50,970 --> 00:25:56,410 'and each single tail hair is picked out to make up the width of the fabric.' 416 00:25:56,410 --> 00:25:59,610 I've stepped into the 19th century. This is amazing! 417 00:25:59,610 --> 00:26:02,690 Yes, not much has changed. 418 00:26:02,690 --> 00:26:05,010 It's like a museum, but it's in production. 419 00:26:05,010 --> 00:26:09,650 Historically, children were used to pick the hair out of the bundles, 420 00:26:09,650 --> 00:26:14,690 but the 1870 Education Act abolished child labour in favour of schooling. 421 00:26:16,330 --> 00:26:20,370 So Boyd diversified by inventing and patenting special looms 422 00:26:20,370 --> 00:26:22,810 to mimic the skills of little fingers. 423 00:26:26,250 --> 00:26:29,410 Remarkably, those machines are still in use today, 424 00:26:29,410 --> 00:26:32,490 now powered by electricity in place of steam. 425 00:26:35,210 --> 00:26:38,130 So you have the horsehair across the width 426 00:26:38,130 --> 00:26:41,450 and the yarn to give you the length direction. 427 00:26:41,450 --> 00:26:45,370 Can I touch that? It's a lovely feel to it, isn't it? 428 00:26:45,370 --> 00:26:48,410 I don't want to put my fingers in there, though. 429 00:26:48,410 --> 00:26:50,810 It's a beautiful pattern. This is really lovely. 430 00:26:50,810 --> 00:26:53,490 Yes, the pattern dates back to about 1900 431 00:26:53,490 --> 00:26:55,370 so it's still the original pattern. 432 00:26:55,370 --> 00:26:59,450 The looms are the same speed as hand-weaving, 433 00:26:59,450 --> 00:27:03,490 so they only weave two-three metres per day, per loom. 434 00:27:03,490 --> 00:27:08,130 Each hair is put in individually and we have 90 hairs in one inch, 435 00:27:08,130 --> 00:27:14,010 so the loom has to go backwards and forwards 90 times just to produce one inch of cloth. 436 00:27:14,010 --> 00:27:16,650 You're producing something really special here. 437 00:27:16,650 --> 00:27:19,890 What kind of uses did it used to be put to in Victorian times? 438 00:27:19,890 --> 00:27:21,650 It was used mainly for upholstery, 439 00:27:21,650 --> 00:27:25,050 but it was also used in railway carriages because it was so durable. 440 00:27:25,050 --> 00:27:27,170 Well, I think this would have been fit for use 441 00:27:27,170 --> 00:27:29,850 in the royal railway carriage of Queen Victoria. 442 00:27:29,850 --> 00:27:30,850 Definitely! 443 00:27:36,970 --> 00:27:40,610 George Bradshaw might be amazed that in the 21st century 444 00:27:40,610 --> 00:27:43,090 we're still using Victorian sewers 445 00:27:43,090 --> 00:27:46,330 and there's a factory still producing horsehair. 446 00:27:46,330 --> 00:27:51,610 But more astonishing is that engines that once powered agricultural equipment 447 00:27:51,610 --> 00:27:55,850 have evolved into helicopters employed in our national defence. 448 00:28:00,930 --> 00:28:02,890 On the next leg of my journey, 449 00:28:02,890 --> 00:28:06,410 I'll explore a church that moves in mysterious ways. 450 00:28:06,410 --> 00:28:10,690 That's extraordinary. It really is moving from side to side. 451 00:28:10,690 --> 00:28:15,570 I'll find out just what it takes to run a 19th-century signal box. 452 00:28:15,570 --> 00:28:18,810 I had no idea that what a signalman had to do 453 00:28:18,810 --> 00:28:21,570 was so responsible and so physical. 454 00:28:21,570 --> 00:28:28,730 And I'll summon all my strength to shift a 110-tonne steam locomotive. 455 00:28:28,730 --> 00:28:29,970 She's moving. 456 00:28:46,610 --> 00:28:49,490 Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd