1 00:00:06,000 --> 00:00:10,840 In 1840, one man transformed travel in the British Isles. 2 00:00:10,840 --> 00:00:12,520 His name was George Bradshaw 3 00:00:12,520 --> 00:00:16,640 and his railway guides inspired the Victorians to take to the tracks. 4 00:00:18,600 --> 00:00:21,560 Stop by stop, he told them where to travel, 5 00:00:21,560 --> 00:00:23,480 what to see and where to stay. 6 00:00:25,720 --> 00:00:30,760 Now 170 years later, I'm making a series of journeys across the length 7 00:00:30,760 --> 00:00:35,200 and breadth of these isles to see what of Bradshaw's Britain remains. 8 00:01:00,640 --> 00:01:03,680 I'm now completing my journey from London to Newton Abbot 9 00:01:03,680 --> 00:01:07,520 and I've arrived alongside the coastal beauty of what Bradshaw's 10 00:01:07,520 --> 00:01:09,400 would call South Devonshire. 11 00:01:09,400 --> 00:01:12,840 This was the scene of some of Isambard Kingdom Brunel's 12 00:01:12,840 --> 00:01:17,720 greatest railway engineering successes and worst failures. 13 00:01:17,720 --> 00:01:21,160 And both his triumphs and his disasters proved his genius. 14 00:01:22,400 --> 00:01:25,640 Today I'll take to the sea with the heroes of the RNLI. 15 00:01:25,640 --> 00:01:28,680 Couple of big waves coming now... 16 00:01:28,680 --> 00:01:30,720 Here we go! Woo! 17 00:01:30,720 --> 00:01:33,560 At the moment it feels a little bit like, I imagine, a jockey 18 00:01:33,560 --> 00:01:37,440 in the Grand National, we're going up and down and over the fences. 19 00:01:37,440 --> 00:01:40,880 'I'll visit a stormy coastal railway...' 20 00:01:40,880 --> 00:01:44,800 When the waves hit this section, the plumes of water go right over 21 00:01:44,800 --> 00:01:47,040 the top of the footbridge at the station. 22 00:01:49,200 --> 00:01:53,280 '..and have a close, personal encounter with a boyhood hero.' 23 00:01:53,280 --> 00:01:56,680 This is exciting, is this genuinely a section of Brunel's pipe? 24 00:01:56,680 --> 00:01:58,960 It is indeed, yes. 25 00:01:58,960 --> 00:02:01,760 Using my Bradshaw's Guide, I'm following the tracks 26 00:02:01,760 --> 00:02:03,600 of Isambard Kingdom Brunel, 27 00:02:03,600 --> 00:02:06,600 master engineer of the Great Western Railway. 28 00:02:06,600 --> 00:02:10,640 I started at Paddington station, a monumental success, 29 00:02:10,640 --> 00:02:13,960 and I'll finish in Newton Abbot in Devon, the scene of one of his 30 00:02:13,960 --> 00:02:16,360 biggest disappointments. 31 00:02:16,360 --> 00:02:20,080 The last leg of my journey begins in Exmouth, detours to Sidmouth, 32 00:02:20,080 --> 00:02:24,280 then crosses the Exe estuary to Starcross, on to Dawlish 33 00:02:24,280 --> 00:02:25,760 and finally, Newton Abbot. 34 00:02:33,520 --> 00:02:36,720 My Bradshaw's says, "We have all have the romantic allurements 35 00:02:36,720 --> 00:02:42,920 "of the watering places of the West, where we may find a fund of illimitable 36 00:02:42,920 --> 00:02:47,280 "enjoyment in the rich bouquet that nature has spread before us 37 00:02:47,280 --> 00:02:50,840 "on the freshening shores of Devon." 38 00:02:50,840 --> 00:02:53,600 The Victorians could be pompous and verbose 39 00:02:53,600 --> 00:02:57,520 but their appreciation of the beauties of Devon was sincere. 40 00:03:00,320 --> 00:03:04,360 I'm on a line known locally as The Avocet, where a locomotive 41 00:03:04,360 --> 00:03:07,920 first steamed the ten miles from Exeter to my first destination, 42 00:03:07,920 --> 00:03:10,160 Exmouth, in 1861. 43 00:03:11,360 --> 00:03:16,200 Once a small fishing village, Exmouth grew into an important port, 44 00:03:16,200 --> 00:03:19,400 from which Sir Walter Raleigh launched many of his voyages. 45 00:03:20,600 --> 00:03:23,600 The town became a very popular tourist destination 46 00:03:23,600 --> 00:03:26,480 during the Georgian period and its two-mile long 47 00:03:26,480 --> 00:03:29,400 promenade shows that it has remained so ever since. 48 00:03:31,960 --> 00:03:34,800 # Oh, I do love to be beside the seaside... # 49 00:03:36,240 --> 00:03:38,560 Already intoxicated by sea air! 50 00:03:40,960 --> 00:03:43,560 Bradshaw's tells me that Exmouth has, "in its immediate 51 00:03:43,560 --> 00:03:46,800 "neighbourhood a valley, sheltered on all sides from the winds, 52 00:03:46,800 --> 00:03:50,400 "and capable of affording a genial retreat. Exmouth is 53 00:03:50,400 --> 00:03:53,200 "a decidedly healthy place," 54 00:03:53,200 --> 00:03:56,560 but the sea also brings its dangers 55 00:03:56,560 --> 00:04:00,960 and Exmouth has had a lifeboat station for more than 200 years. 56 00:04:03,160 --> 00:04:06,520 Over the course of two centuries, lifeboats have saved 57 00:04:06,520 --> 00:04:11,480 the lives of over 139,000 people off the coasts of Britain. 58 00:04:11,480 --> 00:04:15,760 They first patrolled the waters around South Shields in 1790. 59 00:04:15,760 --> 00:04:19,840 Exmouth has had one since 1803 and half a century later, 60 00:04:19,840 --> 00:04:23,760 the station joined The Royal National Lifeboat Institution. 61 00:04:23,760 --> 00:04:27,640 Tim Mock is a full time mechanic and coxswain. 62 00:04:27,640 --> 00:04:29,960 Tim, you've had a lifeboat at Exmouth 63 00:04:29,960 --> 00:04:31,920 going all the way back to 1803. 64 00:04:31,920 --> 00:04:35,240 Yes, that's correct, yes. A privately run life boat in those days. 65 00:04:35,240 --> 00:04:38,840 And those lifeboats in those days - how would they have been powered? 66 00:04:38,840 --> 00:04:43,640 Well, that was pulling and sailing boats, that's rowing and sails only. 67 00:04:43,640 --> 00:04:45,520 What do you think of that? 68 00:04:45,520 --> 00:04:49,720 Very hard work, I had a go at it in one of the old boats 69 00:04:49,720 --> 00:04:51,400 and just found it impossible. 70 00:04:51,400 --> 00:04:52,720 How they ever managed to 71 00:04:52,720 --> 00:04:56,080 row for hours and hours on end, I really admire them for that. 72 00:04:56,080 --> 00:04:58,960 Standing on the former slipway here is a reminder that, actually, 73 00:04:58,960 --> 00:05:00,760 you could be called out at any time today. 74 00:05:00,760 --> 00:05:02,600 That's a possibility, yes, 75 00:05:02,600 --> 00:05:07,640 south-easterly winds here means the sea is quite rough - although 76 00:05:07,640 --> 00:05:10,920 it's a nice sunny day, small boats can get in trouble at any time. 77 00:05:10,920 --> 00:05:13,920 Do the people of Exmouth feel a strong connection with their lifeboat? 78 00:05:13,920 --> 00:05:15,960 Oh, definitely, yes. Are they supportive? 79 00:05:15,960 --> 00:05:19,440 Very much so, the lifeboat's always been a big part of the community 80 00:05:19,440 --> 00:05:22,920 and for our side of things we need the community to operate 81 00:05:22,920 --> 00:05:26,360 the service and, of course, going back to Victorian times, the bigger 82 00:05:26,360 --> 00:05:30,240 boats were launched by hand only, so you'd need 40 or 50 men and 83 00:05:30,240 --> 00:05:33,440 women to pull the boat down here out into the water. 84 00:05:33,440 --> 00:05:37,880 I see your present station is 1903, so you're just post-Victorian. 85 00:05:37,880 --> 00:05:39,800 A connection between lifeboats and railways? 86 00:05:39,800 --> 00:05:42,040 Most definitely, boats would have been 87 00:05:42,040 --> 00:05:45,800 delivered by the railways, spare parts... 88 00:05:45,800 --> 00:05:48,240 and in latter years, tractors 89 00:05:48,240 --> 00:05:51,520 and heavier bits of equipment would have all come by rail. 90 00:05:51,520 --> 00:05:55,200 Sir William Hillary founded the National Institution 91 00:05:55,200 --> 00:05:59,440 for the Preservation of Life from Shipwreck, in 1824. 92 00:05:59,440 --> 00:06:03,040 Today almost 5,000 volunteers crew lifeboats, 93 00:06:03,040 --> 00:06:06,720 and I've been invited aboard the Exmouth all-weather lifeboat 94 00:06:06,720 --> 00:06:08,680 for a scheduled training exercise. 95 00:06:08,680 --> 00:06:11,600 Luckily, the Royal National Lifeboat Institution 96 00:06:11,600 --> 00:06:14,080 shares my taste in bright-coloured clothes. 97 00:06:20,160 --> 00:06:22,800 Well, I have once before been out with the RNLI, 98 00:06:22,800 --> 00:06:26,280 but that was in a small inflatable, this is a completely different 99 00:06:26,280 --> 00:06:29,000 kettle of fish, this is a very substantial boat. 100 00:06:42,800 --> 00:06:48,400 At the helm today is former Royal Marine, deputy coxswain Scott Ranft. 101 00:06:48,400 --> 00:06:50,440 Well, it's quite surprising that on a warm 102 00:06:50,440 --> 00:06:53,880 and sunny day there's quite a swell out here. 103 00:06:53,880 --> 00:06:57,840 We've got a force five wind heading from an easterly direction 104 00:06:57,840 --> 00:07:00,560 so it does pick up, especially in this channel as we come out 105 00:07:00,560 --> 00:07:03,600 through, it specifically picks up because it's quite shallow. 106 00:07:03,600 --> 00:07:05,440 There's a couple of big waves coming now... 107 00:07:05,440 --> 00:07:08,320 There we go...whoa... 108 00:07:08,320 --> 00:07:11,240 At the moment it feels a little bit like, I imagine, a jockey 109 00:07:11,240 --> 00:07:15,600 in the Grand National, we're going up and down and over the fences. 110 00:07:15,600 --> 00:07:17,440 That's right. 111 00:07:21,880 --> 00:07:26,160 Roger Jackson, a crew member for the last 14 years, has taken the helm. 112 00:07:26,160 --> 00:07:30,600 I've heard he was recently honoured for leading a particularly 113 00:07:30,600 --> 00:07:33,920 hazardous rescue, manoeuvring the station's in-shore lifeboat 114 00:07:33,920 --> 00:07:38,040 to retrieve four young men from very rough seas. 115 00:07:38,040 --> 00:07:40,400 We had to get them one by one, climb and climb and climb, 116 00:07:40,400 --> 00:07:42,800 dumping surf over the top, go back round and go in again, 117 00:07:42,800 --> 00:07:44,400 and go in again four times. 118 00:07:44,400 --> 00:07:46,400 What state were they in? 119 00:07:46,400 --> 00:07:49,560 Absolutely hypothermic, really cold, really, really shocked, 120 00:07:49,560 --> 00:07:53,400 and extremely pleased to see us. They were very lucky lads. 121 00:07:53,400 --> 00:07:56,640 And you were given the Bronze Medal for Gallantry? 122 00:07:56,640 --> 00:08:00,080 That's right, yes. Last week I actually went to London 123 00:08:00,080 --> 00:08:02,600 and the Duke of Gloucester awarded it to me. 124 00:08:02,600 --> 00:08:05,080 It was a very proud moment for myself, of course, 125 00:08:05,080 --> 00:08:07,440 but also for Exmouth lifeboat station, as well. 126 00:08:07,440 --> 00:08:10,040 I'd love to see it. 127 00:08:10,040 --> 00:08:12,280 That is the actual medal there. 128 00:08:12,280 --> 00:08:17,120 As you can see, that's Sir William Hillary, the founder of the RNLI. 129 00:08:17,120 --> 00:08:18,360 How wonderful. 130 00:08:18,360 --> 00:08:19,800 Would you like to have a drive? 131 00:08:19,800 --> 00:08:22,760 I'd love to have a drive, thank you very much indeed. 132 00:08:22,760 --> 00:08:24,880 If you want to come through... 133 00:08:24,880 --> 00:08:28,760 OK. I've quite often been asked to take control of a steam engine. 134 00:08:28,760 --> 00:08:33,320 I think I feel more control of this than I do when it's a locomotive. 135 00:08:33,320 --> 00:08:34,800 How's that, Michael? 136 00:08:34,800 --> 00:08:37,440 Well, it's just a great honour to be steering this vessel 137 00:08:37,440 --> 00:08:38,680 standing next to a hero. 138 00:08:40,320 --> 00:08:42,520 I don't know about that. 139 00:08:46,200 --> 00:08:49,480 I'm travelling by road to my next destination. 140 00:08:49,480 --> 00:08:53,320 Sidmouth didn't have a railway when my guide was written and the 141 00:08:53,320 --> 00:08:57,960 line that opened in the 1870s fell to the Beeching cuts of the 1960s. 142 00:09:01,640 --> 00:09:04,960 I'm intrigued to know why railway-less Sidmouth, 143 00:09:04,960 --> 00:09:07,960 which my Bradshaw's describes as, "Nestled at the bottom 144 00:09:07,960 --> 00:09:11,600 "of a valley between lofty hills, 500 feet high," 145 00:09:11,600 --> 00:09:15,920 was deemed important enough for an entry covering almost a whole page. 146 00:09:21,880 --> 00:09:25,000 This range of cliffs, according to my guidebook has been 147 00:09:25,000 --> 00:09:28,920 "the theatre of convulsions or landslips. 148 00:09:28,920 --> 00:09:34,320 "One commencing on Christmas Day, 1839, whereby 45 acres of arable 149 00:09:34,320 --> 00:09:37,160 "land were lost." 150 00:09:37,160 --> 00:09:39,440 The beach is now fenced to the public, 151 00:09:39,440 --> 00:09:42,120 so landslips are not a thing of the past, and this 152 00:09:42,120 --> 00:09:46,240 so-called Jurassic Coast is of interest to geologists today. 153 00:09:48,960 --> 00:09:51,440 Sidmouth's cliffs are particularly 154 00:09:51,440 --> 00:09:54,480 important because they occasionally yield fossils of rare 155 00:09:54,480 --> 00:09:58,280 pre-historic amphibians and reptiles. 156 00:09:58,280 --> 00:10:01,360 Earth Science manager, Richard Edmonds, is 157 00:10:01,360 --> 00:10:04,560 responsible for protecting this world heritage site. 158 00:10:04,560 --> 00:10:06,840 Richard, hello. Hello, Michael, nice to meet you. 159 00:10:06,840 --> 00:10:09,880 Apparently, for centuries, these cliffs have been tumbling down? 160 00:10:09,880 --> 00:10:13,960 Well, that's right ,they're actually 230 million years old, 161 00:10:13,960 --> 00:10:18,440 but the natural recession rate is about five metres a century. 162 00:10:18,440 --> 00:10:22,280 But my Bradshaw's tells me that on one occasion there was a landslip 163 00:10:22,280 --> 00:10:24,480 where 45 acres of farming land were lost, 164 00:10:24,480 --> 00:10:26,360 so that has been going on a long time. 165 00:10:26,360 --> 00:10:28,440 Yes, but landslides are a different process. 166 00:10:28,440 --> 00:10:32,440 Landslides tend to be an enormous great, sort of, rending of the earth. 167 00:10:32,440 --> 00:10:35,520 What we're seeing here is more cliff fall caused by the sea 168 00:10:35,520 --> 00:10:37,240 undercutting the base of the cliffs. 169 00:10:37,240 --> 00:10:40,880 In the 19th century did they take steps to slow down the erosion? 170 00:10:40,880 --> 00:10:43,000 Well, to start with, Sidmouth was 171 00:10:43,000 --> 00:10:45,400 built on the back of a vast shingle spit, 172 00:10:45,400 --> 00:10:47,000 so it was a very healthy beach, 173 00:10:47,000 --> 00:10:50,200 the waves could hit the beach and be soaked up, the energy, 174 00:10:50,200 --> 00:10:54,720 but in the 1830s, after big storms, they started to construct 175 00:10:54,720 --> 00:10:59,640 sea defences and those have just become bigger and bigger and bigger. 176 00:10:59,640 --> 00:11:03,400 In the 1920s, a great gale breached the sea wall 177 00:11:03,400 --> 00:11:06,400 and wrought havoc along much of Sidmouth's esplanade, 178 00:11:06,400 --> 00:11:12,440 so the town built a new, higher wall at the then hefty cost of £100,000. 179 00:11:12,440 --> 00:11:14,200 But in Bradshaw's day, 180 00:11:14,200 --> 00:11:19,520 railway builders weren't put off by high seas and eroding cliffs. 181 00:11:19,520 --> 00:11:22,080 I believe the Victorians tried to put a railway in here? 182 00:11:22,080 --> 00:11:25,040 Yes, that's right, the plan was to build a harbour on the western 183 00:11:25,040 --> 00:11:28,920 side of Sidmouth at Ship Rocks and use Salcombe stone which 184 00:11:28,920 --> 00:11:31,520 comes from a village just a couple of miles this way. 185 00:11:31,520 --> 00:11:34,800 The plan was apparently to quarry the stone and then transport 186 00:11:34,800 --> 00:11:38,240 it in a railway in a tunnel running parallel to the back of the cliff. 187 00:11:38,240 --> 00:11:39,680 And what happened to that plan? 188 00:11:39,680 --> 00:11:42,080 The railway engine they bought didn't fit in the tunnel 189 00:11:42,080 --> 00:11:43,320 and the company went bust. 190 00:11:43,320 --> 00:11:44,960 That can't be true, can it? It is. 191 00:11:44,960 --> 00:11:47,080 So, they at least got as far as making the tunnel? 192 00:11:47,080 --> 00:11:50,040 That's right, you can still see the tunnel sticking out of the cliff, 193 00:11:50,040 --> 00:11:52,680 but what's happened since then is the erosion has come through 194 00:11:52,680 --> 00:11:54,960 and actually eaten away and destroyed the tunnel. 195 00:11:54,960 --> 00:11:57,760 The entrance was literally just here at Pennington Point and in 196 00:11:57,760 --> 00:12:00,400 the last 20 years the cliffs have receded and it's been lost. 197 00:12:00,400 --> 00:12:03,040 So the tunnel added to the difficulties of the cliff? 198 00:12:03,040 --> 00:12:06,240 Well, it's done its damage, yes, the cliff has got to the point 199 00:12:06,240 --> 00:12:07,520 where it reached the tunnel, 200 00:12:07,520 --> 00:12:09,760 and suddenly there's this increase in erosion. 201 00:12:09,760 --> 00:12:13,000 That's likely to be one of the reasons why we've had this very 202 00:12:13,000 --> 00:12:15,640 marked increase in erosion over the last years. 203 00:12:15,640 --> 00:12:17,680 Hopefully now the tunnel's gone 204 00:12:17,680 --> 00:12:20,040 and the sea is coming back into the solid geology, 205 00:12:20,040 --> 00:12:21,720 we should see it slow down. 206 00:12:21,720 --> 00:12:24,840 Richard, thank you very much, I must slip away. Bye-bye. 207 00:12:29,840 --> 00:12:33,800 Back to Exmouth now to take not a train, but a short boat ride, 208 00:12:33,800 --> 00:12:38,520 that will deliver me to the exact spot I'm aiming for. 209 00:12:38,520 --> 00:12:41,680 PA ANNOUNCEMENT: "...on the ferry to Starcross. 210 00:12:48,560 --> 00:12:52,560 I'm on the ferry crossing the mouth of the River Exe to Starcross, 211 00:12:52,560 --> 00:12:56,440 a small place with a big chunk of railway history. 212 00:12:56,440 --> 00:12:59,760 And I think I can see a relic of it coming into view now. 213 00:13:03,360 --> 00:13:06,960 The final three destinations of my journey all played a pivotal 214 00:13:06,960 --> 00:13:10,960 role in Isambard Kingdom Brunel's greatest railway failure - 215 00:13:10,960 --> 00:13:12,840 his atmospheric railway, 216 00:13:12,840 --> 00:13:16,360 where trains were not hauled by steam locomotive but forced 217 00:13:16,360 --> 00:13:20,400 forward by atmospheric pressure, running through a pipe on the track. 218 00:13:21,760 --> 00:13:23,080 Starcross is first. 219 00:13:24,280 --> 00:13:27,720 This is a pumping station that was used on Brunel's atmospheric 220 00:13:27,720 --> 00:13:31,480 railway, there's a pub dedicated to the history of that line 221 00:13:31,480 --> 00:13:34,400 and after a long day I've earned myself a drink there. 222 00:13:43,960 --> 00:13:46,640 Good evening. Good evening. 223 00:13:46,640 --> 00:13:49,040 Could I have a half a lager, please? You sure can. 224 00:13:49,040 --> 00:13:51,000 I see you're called The Atmospheric Railway, 225 00:13:51,000 --> 00:13:52,920 are you quite an admirer of Brunel, are you? 226 00:13:52,920 --> 00:13:55,720 I sure am, I think he's one of the greatest engineers we've ever had. 227 00:13:55,720 --> 00:13:57,800 Why are you such an admirer? 228 00:13:57,800 --> 00:14:03,120 Well, he just wasn't one particular item, was it, I mean 229 00:14:03,120 --> 00:14:08,960 he built bridges, tunnels, boats, he was just an all-round great engineer. 230 00:14:08,960 --> 00:14:12,800 Well, then, the toast is - Isambard Kingdom Brunel. 231 00:14:12,800 --> 00:14:14,880 Isambard Kingdom Brunel. 232 00:14:14,880 --> 00:14:16,480 Cheers. Cheers. 233 00:14:16,480 --> 00:14:20,520 After a day's travelling, it's a night cap and early to bed for me. 234 00:14:25,400 --> 00:14:28,680 As a boy, I marvelled at the life of Brunel. 235 00:14:28,680 --> 00:14:31,800 Even though the atmospheric railway was ultimately a failure, 236 00:14:31,800 --> 00:14:34,720 I'm keen to find out more about it. 237 00:14:34,720 --> 00:14:37,800 At my next destination, Dawlish, the line had a station. 238 00:14:44,120 --> 00:14:47,560 I'm on the Exeter to Paignton branch line this morning. 239 00:14:47,560 --> 00:14:50,400 Before trains reached the south Devon coast, Brunel's 240 00:14:50,400 --> 00:14:55,680 challenge was to lay track over very hilly and sharply curving terrain. 241 00:14:55,680 --> 00:14:57,920 The trains are now powered by diesel, 242 00:14:57,920 --> 00:15:01,920 but the route is almost the same as in Bradshaw's day. 243 00:15:01,920 --> 00:15:04,000 The result is one of the most thrilling 244 00:15:04,000 --> 00:15:06,000 stretches of track in England. 245 00:15:07,800 --> 00:15:10,600 My Bradshaw's is understandably excited about this 246 00:15:10,600 --> 00:15:12,120 part of the journey. 247 00:15:12,120 --> 00:15:16,600 "The magnificent scenery which opens on each side as we proceed. 248 00:15:16,600 --> 00:15:20,080 "There is scarcely a mile traversed which does not unfold some 249 00:15:20,080 --> 00:15:23,920 "peculiar picturesque charm, or new feature of its own to make 250 00:15:23,920 --> 00:15:27,760 "the eye dazzled and drunk with beauty," 251 00:15:27,760 --> 00:15:30,840 and for me there's the additional interest that we're travelling 252 00:15:30,840 --> 00:15:34,640 on tracks that were once part of Brunel's doomed atmospheric railway. 253 00:15:49,560 --> 00:15:52,120 In 1044, King Edward the Confessor, 254 00:15:52,120 --> 00:15:54,600 granted the parish of Dawlish to 255 00:15:54,600 --> 00:15:58,320 his chancellor and chaplain, Leofric. 256 00:15:58,320 --> 00:16:03,440 Salt-making, fishing and agriculture were the town's mainstay, 257 00:16:03,440 --> 00:16:06,440 until the 18th century penchant for taking the sea air 258 00:16:06,440 --> 00:16:09,160 and bathing, attracted the aristocratic set. 259 00:16:14,480 --> 00:16:17,080 But when the South Devon Railway arrived in the 1840s, the town 260 00:16:17,080 --> 00:16:19,560 was opened to everyone. 261 00:16:22,160 --> 00:16:27,080 Here at Dawlish, the station is built between the beach and the 262 00:16:27,080 --> 00:16:30,920 town, making this one of the most dramatic stretches of railway in 263 00:16:30,920 --> 00:16:34,520 England, and that's not just because of the views from the trains. 264 00:16:37,480 --> 00:16:42,520 In 1844, Brunel started building a sea wall to protect the line 265 00:16:42,520 --> 00:16:46,200 standing just a few yards from the foaming brine, 266 00:16:46,200 --> 00:16:49,800 but the elements were unkind to his coastal railway. 267 00:16:49,800 --> 00:16:53,320 Heavy rain would cause rock falls, breaching its defences, 268 00:16:53,320 --> 00:16:56,560 and even now the salty sea spray that billows up 269 00:16:56,560 --> 00:17:01,200 and over on rough days can affect the operation of the railway. 270 00:17:01,200 --> 00:17:03,640 John Wilkinson has lived here all his life. 271 00:17:03,640 --> 00:17:05,280 John... 272 00:17:05,280 --> 00:17:07,520 hello. Morning, Michael. 273 00:17:07,520 --> 00:17:10,320 There's a bit of spray coming over the wall this morning, but I've 274 00:17:10,320 --> 00:17:13,680 been on trains and seen it far worse than this, how bad does it get? 275 00:17:13,680 --> 00:17:16,680 It gets very bad, on a bad day you wouldn't possibly be able to 276 00:17:16,680 --> 00:17:20,720 walk along this wall, when the waves hit this section the plumes of water 277 00:17:20,720 --> 00:17:24,720 go high in the air and actually get blown over onto Marine Parade, 278 00:17:24,720 --> 00:17:27,840 and just to give you some idea of the height, the actual plumes 279 00:17:27,840 --> 00:17:31,080 of water go right over the top of the footbridge at the station. 280 00:17:31,080 --> 00:17:34,280 And what effect does that have on the functioning of the railway? 281 00:17:34,280 --> 00:17:37,160 It does have effect on some of the train services, 282 00:17:37,160 --> 00:17:41,200 because when the plumes of water go high in the air it actually 283 00:17:41,200 --> 00:17:44,480 lands on the top of the trains and gets into the exhaust 284 00:17:44,480 --> 00:17:46,840 and into the electronic systems on the top. 285 00:17:46,840 --> 00:17:49,960 And historically it's interrupted services from time to time. 286 00:17:49,960 --> 00:17:54,280 It has... indeed, but when you consider the length of time 287 00:17:54,280 --> 00:17:58,280 it's been here I think the interruptions are not too serious, 288 00:17:58,280 --> 00:18:01,600 and any form of transport is subject to adverse weather. 289 00:18:01,600 --> 00:18:03,960 It's one of the great rides in England, isn't it? 290 00:18:03,960 --> 00:18:07,040 I think so, yes. It's got to be in the top ten, if not... 291 00:18:12,680 --> 00:18:14,360 A green tea, please. 292 00:18:14,360 --> 00:18:17,200 So where would you rank this amongst English train journeys? 293 00:18:17,200 --> 00:18:18,400 Number one! 294 00:18:18,400 --> 00:18:20,440 It's a beautiful piece of coastline, isn't it? 295 00:18:20,440 --> 00:18:22,480 It's a gorgeous piece of coastline, yes. 296 00:18:22,480 --> 00:18:25,720 Certainly the most picturesque, most exciting railway line in the country. 297 00:18:25,720 --> 00:18:27,920 You've got one of the best views of a railway 298 00:18:27,920 --> 00:18:29,560 anywhere in Britain, I should think. 299 00:18:29,560 --> 00:18:31,040 Do you like watching trains go by? 300 00:18:31,040 --> 00:18:32,600 We do, yeah. 301 00:18:37,840 --> 00:18:39,480 Hello. Hello. 302 00:18:39,480 --> 00:18:41,120 Have you been here before? 303 00:18:41,120 --> 00:18:44,000 Yes, I used to come down here when I was a baby. 304 00:18:44,000 --> 00:18:45,600 Did you come on the train? 305 00:18:45,600 --> 00:18:46,800 No, not on the train... 306 00:18:46,800 --> 00:18:48,440 Ha-ha, that's a pity. 307 00:18:48,440 --> 00:18:50,280 We used to wave at the trains! 308 00:18:50,280 --> 00:18:51,920 So, you've brought your kids here now? 309 00:18:51,920 --> 00:18:53,000 My kids are here now. 310 00:18:53,000 --> 00:18:54,360 Are they waving at the trains? 311 00:18:54,360 --> 00:18:56,440 Yes, they love seeing the trains go past. 312 00:18:56,440 --> 00:18:58,960 Do you know who built this railway line? 313 00:18:58,960 --> 00:19:01,640 I don't know who built this railway line, actually, no. 314 00:19:01,640 --> 00:19:02,640 Isambard... 315 00:19:02,640 --> 00:19:04,320 Kingdom Brunel... 316 00:19:04,320 --> 00:19:10,720 and my son is named Noah Isambard after Brunel. 317 00:19:10,720 --> 00:19:14,200 Wow, you are admirers of Brunel. 318 00:19:14,200 --> 00:19:17,520 Yes, I'm an engineer, I think his work is fantastic. 319 00:19:17,520 --> 00:19:20,080 Such a pleasure to talk to you, thank you very much. Thank you. 320 00:19:20,080 --> 00:19:22,920 Bye-bye, enjoy your day. 321 00:19:30,360 --> 00:19:33,960 With its track skirting the shore and with the sea pounding its 322 00:19:33,960 --> 00:19:36,200 platforms and its footbridge, 323 00:19:36,200 --> 00:19:39,840 there's no doubt that Dawlish is Brunellish. 324 00:19:45,320 --> 00:19:48,800 The last nine miles of my current journey is an exciting 325 00:19:48,800 --> 00:19:52,040 quarter-of-an-hour ride along the coastal line that Brunel 326 00:19:52,040 --> 00:19:56,240 built for his hapless atmospheric railway, because even though 327 00:19:56,240 --> 00:20:01,560 the technology failed, the route has remained in use for over 150 years. 328 00:20:04,200 --> 00:20:08,280 In the past, my Bradshaw's guide has directed me to places described as 329 00:20:08,280 --> 00:20:13,520 the Switzerland or the Athens or the Paris of the British Isles. 330 00:20:13,520 --> 00:20:16,000 Now I'm headed for Newton Abbot, 331 00:20:16,000 --> 00:20:18,640 dubbed The Swindon of the South West. 332 00:20:26,280 --> 00:20:30,280 In Bradshaw's day, the station was called Newton Junction. 333 00:20:30,280 --> 00:20:33,720 What became the South-West's Victorian rail hub was, 334 00:20:33,720 --> 00:20:37,880 in the 17th century, the small market town of Newton Abbots, 335 00:20:37,880 --> 00:20:41,440 an unlikely spot to shape the history of Britain. 336 00:20:41,440 --> 00:20:44,240 Felicity Cole is the town museum's curator. 337 00:20:44,240 --> 00:20:47,240 I think we've come across something else mentioned in my Bradshaw's, 338 00:20:47,240 --> 00:20:49,320 regarding the declaration that was made 339 00:20:49,320 --> 00:20:52,760 when William of Orange landed in Britain in 1688. 340 00:20:52,760 --> 00:20:54,200 Tell me about that. 341 00:20:54,200 --> 00:20:59,240 Well, William of Orange made his declaration, or his intent to 342 00:20:59,240 --> 00:21:02,680 become king of England in 1688, 343 00:21:02,680 --> 00:21:05,480 so a very politically-charged moment. 344 00:21:05,480 --> 00:21:07,800 There were 30,000 troops that 345 00:21:07,800 --> 00:21:09,640 came through the town that day, 346 00:21:09,640 --> 00:21:14,640 and an extraordinary scene of things like Finlanders dressed 347 00:21:14,640 --> 00:21:18,800 in bearskins, Spanish mercenaries with damseamed armour, but hundreds 348 00:21:18,800 --> 00:21:23,040 of them processing through the town, so presumably anybody who had 349 00:21:23,040 --> 00:21:26,280 said, "Well, we don't want that," would have got fairly well squashed 350 00:21:26,280 --> 00:21:27,720 by the army. 351 00:21:27,720 --> 00:21:30,320 Fundamentally, this was a Protestant rebellion 352 00:21:30,320 --> 00:21:34,000 against a Catholic King which is why it says here, William III, 353 00:21:34,000 --> 00:21:37,000 Prince of Orange, the glorious defender of the Protestant religion. 354 00:21:37,000 --> 00:21:38,280 Indeed. 355 00:21:38,280 --> 00:21:40,880 I've really come in pursuit of the town's railway history, 356 00:21:40,880 --> 00:21:42,520 may we have a look at that, please? 357 00:21:42,520 --> 00:21:43,920 Absolutely. 358 00:21:45,960 --> 00:21:50,800 In 1892, The Great Western Railway built a new engine shed, workshops, 359 00:21:50,800 --> 00:21:56,160 locomotive bays and a factory fashioned on their Swindon works. 360 00:21:56,160 --> 00:21:58,800 The expansion in Newton Abbot meant that workers needed to be 361 00:21:58,800 --> 00:22:03,280 housed, and whole streets were built for the purpose. 362 00:22:03,280 --> 00:22:07,520 Here we are in a street that is really full of railway houses, 363 00:22:07,520 --> 00:22:10,360 and where the railwaymen would have lived, and here is 364 00:22:10,360 --> 00:22:13,120 David Grills who is one of those railwaymen that lived in the area. 365 00:22:13,120 --> 00:22:15,040 Hello, David. Pleased to meet you. 366 00:22:15,040 --> 00:22:17,640 Were these all occupied by railwaymen in your day? 367 00:22:17,640 --> 00:22:19,160 More or less, yes. 368 00:22:19,160 --> 00:22:22,960 There were at one time 49 railwaymen in this one street, 369 00:22:22,960 --> 00:22:29,080 and that ranged from wheel tappers to guards, goods guards, 370 00:22:29,080 --> 00:22:32,520 passenger guards, enginemen, boilermen 371 00:22:32,520 --> 00:22:35,760 and people who worked in the factory, so there was quite an extensive 372 00:22:35,760 --> 00:22:39,600 mix right the way throughout all these terraces. 373 00:22:39,600 --> 00:22:43,080 Did Newton Abbot deserve the title of the Swindon of the South West? 374 00:22:43,080 --> 00:22:47,320 It indeed did, it was little Swindon, without a doubt. 375 00:22:47,320 --> 00:22:52,720 At times, I can remember when I started as a young lad, 376 00:22:52,720 --> 00:22:56,680 there were at least somewhere in the region of a thousand plus men 377 00:22:56,680 --> 00:23:00,360 employed at Newton Abbot. We boasted at one time nine 378 00:23:00,360 --> 00:23:04,840 working platforms, and the main platform was at least 379 00:23:04,840 --> 00:23:11,120 a quarter of a mile long, and during the busy season we would entertain 380 00:23:11,120 --> 00:23:14,640 something in the region of 350 trains in one weekend. 381 00:23:14,640 --> 00:23:16,400 What was your job with the railways? 382 00:23:16,400 --> 00:23:19,440 I was a passenger coach shunter, rather a dirty job, wet, 383 00:23:19,440 --> 00:23:24,440 miserable and if you notice on most coaching stock, all the drain pipes 384 00:23:24,440 --> 00:23:27,160 run down onto the back of the poor shunter who 385 00:23:27,160 --> 00:23:30,640 is in the middle, coupling coaches up, so I used to get very wet, 386 00:23:30,640 --> 00:23:34,040 but very dirty, but the money was good 387 00:23:34,040 --> 00:23:35,680 They sound like good old days. 388 00:23:35,680 --> 00:23:38,200 They were indeed good old days. I confess to going to 389 00:23:38,200 --> 00:23:42,600 work as a small lad where I wore a peaked hat, 390 00:23:42,600 --> 00:23:45,840 I polished the peak and I also polished the buttons 391 00:23:45,840 --> 00:23:51,120 on the front of my jacket, I was so proud to be a railman. 392 00:23:51,120 --> 00:23:53,960 GWR - God's Wonderful Railway. 393 00:23:53,960 --> 00:23:57,400 I'm very proud to have met you, David... And you, too. 394 00:23:57,400 --> 00:23:59,200 Thank you, sir, very much indeed. 395 00:23:59,200 --> 00:24:01,800 All the best, bye-bye. 396 00:24:01,800 --> 00:24:07,040 It was Brunel's atmospheric railway that first ran to Newton Abbot. 397 00:24:07,040 --> 00:24:11,400 Patented in 1839 by Samuel Clegg and the Samuda Brothers, 398 00:24:11,400 --> 00:24:14,040 the system that ran on atmospheric pressure was 399 00:24:14,040 --> 00:24:19,760 first employed on a Dublin line in 1844, where Brunel investigated it 400 00:24:19,760 --> 00:24:23,840 and became convinced it was viable, and even preferable to steam power. 401 00:24:25,600 --> 00:24:28,840 I'm hoping to find out more at Felicity's museum. 402 00:24:31,080 --> 00:24:35,000 So, Felicity, can you explain to me how the atmospheric railway worked? 403 00:24:35,000 --> 00:24:37,440 Well, the first question I could ask you is - 404 00:24:37,440 --> 00:24:40,480 what do you notice about looking at this model? 405 00:24:40,480 --> 00:24:42,640 No locomotive, and obviously a large 406 00:24:42,640 --> 00:24:45,560 pipe running down the centre of the railway track. 407 00:24:45,560 --> 00:24:48,400 And we've also got a pumping house or engine house here, 408 00:24:48,400 --> 00:24:51,840 so what the pumping station is actually doing is evacuating 409 00:24:51,840 --> 00:24:55,320 the air in front of the carriage in the pipe, 410 00:24:55,320 --> 00:24:58,520 and then pressure is building up in the pipe behind the carriage 411 00:24:58,520 --> 00:25:01,600 which pushes the whole thing along. 412 00:25:01,600 --> 00:25:06,240 So you have a train that doesn't produce any smoke or any steam, 413 00:25:06,240 --> 00:25:09,600 not very much noise, I imagine. It's extraordinary... 414 00:25:09,600 --> 00:25:11,960 In fact, the passengers that travelled on it loved it, 415 00:25:11,960 --> 00:25:16,680 and used to comment that it was swift, silent and smokeless, 416 00:25:16,680 --> 00:25:21,200 and so despite all the things that did go wrong with it... 417 00:25:21,200 --> 00:25:24,080 erm, people were very sad when it went. 418 00:25:25,280 --> 00:25:28,880 The atmospheric railway caused great controversy. 419 00:25:28,880 --> 00:25:32,040 Brunel's rival, Robert Stevenson, 420 00:25:32,040 --> 00:25:34,920 claimed the atmospheric system would be expensive and less 421 00:25:34,920 --> 00:25:40,080 reliable, compared to the steam locomotive he'd helped to invent. 422 00:25:40,080 --> 00:25:43,480 Brunel refused to heed Stevenson's prophetic warning. 423 00:25:45,400 --> 00:25:48,560 This is exciting. Is this genuinely a section of Brunel's pipe? 424 00:25:48,560 --> 00:25:50,560 It is indeed, yes. 425 00:25:50,560 --> 00:25:54,040 The piston would be travelling along inside this pipe, 426 00:25:54,040 --> 00:25:59,440 which had been evacuated of air by the pumping house and as a 427 00:25:59,440 --> 00:26:02,840 leather flap attached here was raised, 428 00:26:02,840 --> 00:26:06,800 the air would come in behind the piston, 429 00:26:06,800 --> 00:26:08,640 and creating the atmospheric pressure 430 00:26:08,640 --> 00:26:11,880 to push the carriage forward, but then the problem would be the 431 00:26:11,880 --> 00:26:15,960 flap had to return to its place and make a seal, 432 00:26:15,960 --> 00:26:18,800 ready for the next train. 433 00:26:18,800 --> 00:26:21,640 Although the technology had advantages, 434 00:26:21,640 --> 00:26:23,680 it faced two major problems. 435 00:26:23,680 --> 00:26:26,720 Its air pipes corroded in the salty sea air 436 00:26:26,720 --> 00:26:32,120 and animal fat had to be manually applied to stop the leather seals from cracking. 437 00:26:32,120 --> 00:26:35,840 Local legend has it that rats ate through the seals 438 00:26:35,840 --> 00:26:39,920 and caused the line's closure, but it was the cost of upkeep which, 439 00:26:39,920 --> 00:26:42,560 after eight months, finally did for it. 440 00:26:43,800 --> 00:26:49,240 Undaunted, Brunel went on to engineer the ship, SS Great Eastern, 441 00:26:49,240 --> 00:26:50,480 Paddington Station and the 442 00:26:50,480 --> 00:26:53,120 magnificent Royal Albert Bridge in Cornwall 443 00:26:53,120 --> 00:26:55,720 before he died at the age of just 53. 444 00:26:57,800 --> 00:27:01,800 Well, his qualities certainly made him my boyhood hero, 445 00:27:01,800 --> 00:27:05,120 and he's the hero of many people still living today who remember 446 00:27:05,120 --> 00:27:07,600 the fantastic achievements of Isambard Kingdom Brunel. 447 00:27:07,600 --> 00:27:09,560 Indeed. 448 00:27:15,240 --> 00:27:19,120 My railway journey from London Paddington to Newton Abbot 449 00:27:19,120 --> 00:27:22,520 has taken me past some of southern England's most beautiful buildings 450 00:27:22,520 --> 00:27:24,040 and finest views. 451 00:27:24,040 --> 00:27:27,480 My guidebook has opened my eyes to key events 452 00:27:27,480 --> 00:27:30,000 and sights in our island history. 453 00:27:30,000 --> 00:27:32,520 Where George Bradshaw has guided my tracks, 454 00:27:32,520 --> 00:27:36,000 Isambard Kingdom Brunel built the tracks. 455 00:27:36,000 --> 00:27:38,840 Standing here above his Great Western Railway, 456 00:27:38,840 --> 00:27:43,640 I seriously doubt whether a finer civil engineer ever existed. 457 00:27:54,240 --> 00:27:56,800 On my next journey, my Bradshaw's will lead me 458 00:27:56,800 --> 00:28:00,360 across the Irish Sea, tracing 19th century tracks from Kerry 459 00:28:00,360 --> 00:28:05,440 to Galway, landscapes shot to fame by Queen Victoria. 460 00:28:05,440 --> 00:28:09,280 If it was good enough for the Royal Family, it was good enough for everyone? Correct. 461 00:28:09,280 --> 00:28:11,720 'I'll visit the Irish National Stud, 462 00:28:11,720 --> 00:28:13,280 and find myself bucked....' 463 00:28:13,280 --> 00:28:15,120 Oh, the horse is going very fast now. 464 00:28:15,120 --> 00:28:17,720 Absolutely exhausting! 465 00:28:17,720 --> 00:28:20,720 '..and hear Irish history, preserved in song.' 466 00:28:20,720 --> 00:28:22,920 # Oh, there is a land... 467 00:28:22,920 --> 00:28:27,240 # far away. # 468 00:28:27,240 --> 00:28:28,960 Well done, Michael. 469 00:28:28,960 --> 00:28:30,480 Ooooooh! 470 00:28:52,120 --> 00:28:54,320 Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd