1 00:00:04,900 --> 00:00:09,620 In 1840, one man transformed travel in Britain. 2 00:00:09,620 --> 00:00:11,460 His name was George Bradshaw 3 00:00:11,460 --> 00:00:16,580 and his railway guides inspired the Victorians to take to the tracks. 4 00:00:16,580 --> 00:00:23,060 Stop by stop, he told them where to go, what to see and where to stay. 5 00:00:23,060 --> 00:00:28,540 And now, 170 years later, I'm aboard for a series of rail adventures 6 00:00:28,540 --> 00:00:33,700 across the United Kingdom to see what of Bradshaw's Britain remains. 7 00:00:55,220 --> 00:00:57,180 My journey around northern England 8 00:00:57,180 --> 00:01:00,460 has taken me from the great mill towns of Lancashire 9 00:01:00,460 --> 00:01:03,340 to the grandiose scenery of the Yorkshire moors 10 00:01:03,340 --> 00:01:08,540 and the Keighley and Worth Valley Railway, opened in 1867, 11 00:01:08,540 --> 00:01:11,780 closed to passengers in 1962, 12 00:01:11,780 --> 00:01:17,260 gloriously reopened in 1968, and running steam. 13 00:01:21,140 --> 00:01:25,220 'On this leg, I learn how Victorians marketed confectionery...' 14 00:01:25,220 --> 00:01:28,460 On Saturday last, you were eating Mackintosh's Toffee at our expense. 15 00:01:28,460 --> 00:01:31,540 Next Saturday, pay us another visit and eat it at your own expense. 16 00:01:31,540 --> 00:01:33,140 That's brilliant. Brilliant. 17 00:01:33,140 --> 00:01:35,340 Which was a very unusual way of advertising. 18 00:01:35,340 --> 00:01:37,660 'I get a tailor-made fitting...' 19 00:01:37,660 --> 00:01:41,060 Most people have got one shoulder lower than the other, and you have. 20 00:01:41,060 --> 00:01:43,220 Where I've been writing over the years, yeah. 21 00:01:43,220 --> 00:01:45,460 All them cheques. HE LAUGHS 22 00:01:45,460 --> 00:01:49,060 'And I help revive a cinematic railway legend.' 23 00:01:49,060 --> 00:01:50,820 Oakworth! 24 00:01:50,820 --> 00:01:52,620 Oakworth Station! 25 00:01:52,620 --> 00:01:54,220 CHEERING 26 00:01:54,220 --> 00:01:55,860 Oakworth! 27 00:02:00,340 --> 00:02:04,820 My journey began in Manchester, headed west to Port Sunlight, 28 00:02:04,820 --> 00:02:06,820 took the sea air in Southport, 29 00:02:06,820 --> 00:02:09,500 traversed Lancashire towards Bradford 30 00:02:09,500 --> 00:02:13,500 and now goes south to steely South Yorkshire, ending in Derbyshire, 31 00:02:13,500 --> 00:02:17,820 where the father of the railways, George Stephenson, lies buried. 32 00:02:19,460 --> 00:02:22,900 Today's Yorkist chapter begins in Haworth, 33 00:02:22,900 --> 00:02:25,340 goes to the cinema in Oakworth, 34 00:02:25,340 --> 00:02:27,260 invests in Bradford, 35 00:02:27,260 --> 00:02:30,140 moves stickily south to Halifax, 36 00:02:30,140 --> 00:02:32,620 weaving its way finally to Huddersfield. 37 00:02:37,100 --> 00:02:39,860 This landscape looks benign in sun. 38 00:02:39,860 --> 00:02:41,780 But lashed by wind and rain, 39 00:02:41,780 --> 00:02:46,460 it made the setting for a dark tale of passion, Wuthering Heights. 40 00:02:46,460 --> 00:02:48,780 That and another love story, Jane Eyre, 41 00:02:48,780 --> 00:02:50,700 are amongst my favourite novels 42 00:02:50,700 --> 00:02:55,180 and they were written by sisters in a family of gifted siblings. 43 00:02:55,180 --> 00:02:57,820 Yes, this is Bronte country. 44 00:03:01,060 --> 00:03:04,260 I'm heading to Haworth, atop a hill in the Worth Valley 45 00:03:04,260 --> 00:03:06,780 where novels of passion and genius 46 00:03:06,780 --> 00:03:09,780 were created by three brilliant sisters. 47 00:03:09,780 --> 00:03:12,140 I want to know what inspired them 48 00:03:12,140 --> 00:03:15,300 and whether the railway played any role in their lives. 49 00:03:17,740 --> 00:03:20,860 I'm meeting Professor Ann Sumner of the Bronte Society 50 00:03:20,860 --> 00:03:24,700 at the parsonage provided for their father, the local curate. 51 00:03:28,540 --> 00:03:32,020 Hello, Ann. Hello, Michael. Welcome to Haworth. Thank you very much indeed. 52 00:03:32,020 --> 00:03:35,180 Who were this extraordinary family of Brontes? 53 00:03:35,180 --> 00:03:38,020 Well, the Bronte sisters wrote some of the greatest novels 54 00:03:38,020 --> 00:03:42,540 that we have in English literature of the 19th century. 55 00:03:42,540 --> 00:03:46,580 Of course, Charlotte wrote Jane Eyre published in 1847, 56 00:03:46,580 --> 00:03:50,020 Emily wrote Wuthering Heights in the same year, 57 00:03:50,020 --> 00:03:54,300 and Anne, perhaps the least known of the three sisters, 58 00:03:54,300 --> 00:03:58,540 she brought out Agnes Grey and The Tenant Of Wildfell Hall. 59 00:03:58,540 --> 00:04:00,780 What were their circumstances? 60 00:04:00,780 --> 00:04:03,860 Well, they were not a wealthy family. 61 00:04:03,860 --> 00:04:10,700 Very sadly, the mother died just 18 months after arriving here in 1821. 62 00:04:10,700 --> 00:04:13,780 And the sisters went out as governesses or as teachers, 63 00:04:13,780 --> 00:04:16,260 and when they came back to write their famous novels, 64 00:04:16,260 --> 00:04:19,300 they drew on that experience of life as well. 65 00:04:19,300 --> 00:04:21,140 Before there had been Jane Austen, 66 00:04:21,140 --> 00:04:23,660 but was it still quite rare to have a woman novelist? 67 00:04:23,660 --> 00:04:25,180 It was unusual. 68 00:04:25,180 --> 00:04:28,420 And pretty early on there was some rumour in London 69 00:04:28,420 --> 00:04:32,420 that actually this was only one man writing the novels. 70 00:04:32,420 --> 00:04:34,540 And so the two sisters, Charlotte and Anne, 71 00:04:34,540 --> 00:04:37,700 walked to Keighley - by this time the railways were at Keighley - 72 00:04:37,700 --> 00:04:41,100 five miles in a thunderstorm, and then they were whisked down overnight 73 00:04:41,100 --> 00:04:43,900 to London and, of course, revealed themselves to the publisher 74 00:04:43,900 --> 00:04:47,420 the next morning, who was somewhat surprised to find that they really were women. 75 00:04:49,780 --> 00:04:53,020 Jane Eyre was an instant success. 76 00:04:53,020 --> 00:04:56,900 Charlotte spent some of her new-found wealth buying shares 77 00:04:56,900 --> 00:05:01,540 in an industry which already played a part in the lives of the sisters. 78 00:05:02,540 --> 00:05:07,140 She and her siblings had inherited money from their Aunt Branwell, 79 00:05:07,140 --> 00:05:09,940 £1,400, which had been divided between them 80 00:05:09,940 --> 00:05:11,900 and they had invested in the railway. 81 00:05:11,900 --> 00:05:15,740 And they actually had good - initially - good income 82 00:05:15,740 --> 00:05:19,420 from the railways, and now she writes to her publisher George Smith. 83 00:05:19,420 --> 00:05:22,740 She writes, "The little railway property I possessed, 84 00:05:22,740 --> 00:05:27,340 "scarcely any portion of it can with security be calculated on." 85 00:05:27,340 --> 00:05:30,420 This was a real boom and bust set of stocks, wasn't it? 86 00:05:30,420 --> 00:05:34,260 This was like the dot-com bubble of the early 21st century. 87 00:05:34,260 --> 00:05:36,420 The railways were tremendously exciting. 88 00:05:36,420 --> 00:05:38,700 They were transforming the Brontes' lives. 89 00:05:38,700 --> 00:05:42,180 Charlotte herself travelled for the first time in 1839. 90 00:05:42,180 --> 00:05:44,220 She went on holiday to Bridlington. 91 00:05:44,220 --> 00:05:47,140 Her sisters used the train, and indeed when Anne died, 92 00:05:47,140 --> 00:05:49,820 it was very sad because Anne wanted to get to Scarborough, 93 00:05:49,820 --> 00:05:54,540 she'd been there as a governess and she wanted to see the sea again, she thought that would make her well. 94 00:05:54,540 --> 00:05:58,540 And sadly, just after she arrived in Scarborough, she did actually die. 95 00:05:58,540 --> 00:06:01,580 So the trains were really important to the sisters. 96 00:06:01,580 --> 00:06:04,980 And, in fact, Branwell, their brother, was very interested 97 00:06:04,980 --> 00:06:08,580 in the railways, and he actually worked for the railways as well. 98 00:06:10,860 --> 00:06:12,980 Branwell Bronte was the fourth child 99 00:06:12,980 --> 00:06:16,100 and the only boy of the six Bronte siblings. 100 00:06:16,100 --> 00:06:19,340 Partial to a drink and rumoured to take opium, 101 00:06:19,340 --> 00:06:22,580 he was an aspiring portrait painter and poet 102 00:06:22,580 --> 00:06:26,620 whose short but colourful life ended when he died of bronchitis 103 00:06:26,620 --> 00:06:28,060 aged just 31. 104 00:06:30,060 --> 00:06:33,820 So how was it that Branwell became a railwayman? 105 00:06:33,820 --> 00:06:38,020 Well, his portraiture business was failing, so Branwell took 106 00:06:38,020 --> 00:06:43,380 his own initiative and applied for a role as a clerk at Sowerby Bridge. 107 00:06:43,380 --> 00:06:46,700 Here we actually have a notebook given to him, 108 00:06:46,700 --> 00:06:51,220 so that he could keep a very close eye on what kind of goods trains 109 00:06:51,220 --> 00:06:54,740 came through, and note the details down. 110 00:06:54,740 --> 00:06:58,300 Most of it is around doodles, very good caricatures here of the men 111 00:06:58,300 --> 00:07:01,180 he's working with, and a lovely caricature of himself, actually, 112 00:07:01,180 --> 00:07:04,300 with his glasses on - he was very short-sighted with this pointy nose. 113 00:07:04,300 --> 00:07:06,460 And then this list of his favourite poets 114 00:07:06,460 --> 00:07:09,900 and there's some lovely drafts of poems in this book as well. 115 00:07:11,220 --> 00:07:12,980 With his eye on the artistic, 116 00:07:12,980 --> 00:07:15,060 Branwell's railway career hit the buffers 117 00:07:15,060 --> 00:07:18,780 when his station's accounts failed to tally and he was sacked. 118 00:07:22,580 --> 00:07:24,900 So these are by Branwell, are they? 119 00:07:24,900 --> 00:07:28,420 Yes, they are. Branwell actually set up practice 120 00:07:28,420 --> 00:07:31,420 and worked for over a year in Bradford, 121 00:07:31,420 --> 00:07:33,980 but wasn't financially successful. 122 00:07:33,980 --> 00:07:36,940 This has been a real eye-opener for me. I had no idea 123 00:07:36,940 --> 00:07:40,180 there was a railwayman Bronte, the forgotten sibling, 124 00:07:40,180 --> 00:07:42,820 and a man of some talent. 125 00:07:51,940 --> 00:07:53,260 GUARD WHISTLES 126 00:07:59,020 --> 00:08:02,500 Resuming my steam journey, I'm heading north towards Oakworth. 127 00:08:14,500 --> 00:08:18,380 There's another literary connection with this railway. 128 00:08:18,380 --> 00:08:23,420 A lady who was a child at the time of my Bradshaw's guide, E Nesbit. 129 00:08:23,420 --> 00:08:25,540 And she wrote a book, which became a film 130 00:08:25,540 --> 00:08:29,020 with which the British people are still in love. 131 00:08:29,020 --> 00:08:32,180 Yes, it's The Railway Children. 132 00:08:33,820 --> 00:08:36,980 Shot on location at Oakworth in 1970, 133 00:08:36,980 --> 00:08:39,420 the film, directed by Lionel Jeffries, 134 00:08:39,420 --> 00:08:44,380 tells Nesbit's Edwardian story of the adventures of three siblings. 135 00:08:44,380 --> 00:08:48,420 Roberta, Peter and Phyllis move to live next to a Yorkshire railway 136 00:08:48,420 --> 00:08:52,020 after their father is falsely accused of spying for the Russians 137 00:08:52,020 --> 00:08:53,900 and imprisoned. 138 00:08:53,900 --> 00:08:57,540 Former Members of Parliament Ann Cryer and her late husband Bob, 139 00:08:57,540 --> 00:09:00,900 who were Keighley and Worth Valley committee members, 140 00:09:00,900 --> 00:09:02,940 played a pivotal role 141 00:09:02,940 --> 00:09:06,380 in securing this line's starring role in the production. 142 00:09:06,380 --> 00:09:08,940 Nice to see you. Good to see you. 143 00:09:08,940 --> 00:09:13,420 Now, what was your involvement and the involvement of your husband Bob? 144 00:09:13,420 --> 00:09:17,860 On a particular day, the end of '69, I took a phone-call 145 00:09:17,860 --> 00:09:21,340 on behalf of the railway, and this voice said, 146 00:09:21,340 --> 00:09:25,340 "My name is Bob Lynn and I'm a friend of Lionel Jeffries 147 00:09:25,340 --> 00:09:28,220 "and we want to make a film on your railway." 148 00:09:28,220 --> 00:09:29,820 That was the beginning of it. 149 00:09:29,820 --> 00:09:32,900 It was just so exciting. It was absolutely wonderful. 150 00:09:32,900 --> 00:09:36,020 Bob had to organise the engines, 151 00:09:36,020 --> 00:09:38,820 which way they were going to go, where they were going to be 152 00:09:38,820 --> 00:09:42,500 and sometimes very early in the morning an engine would have to 153 00:09:42,500 --> 00:09:45,260 go down to Shipley triangle to turn round, 154 00:09:45,260 --> 00:09:47,140 so it was going in the other direction. 155 00:09:47,140 --> 00:09:49,580 He was responsible for all that. 156 00:09:49,580 --> 00:09:52,020 Did you actually get sucked into the making of the film? 157 00:09:52,020 --> 00:09:55,860 Yes, we did. My son and daughter, John and Jane, and myself - 158 00:09:55,860 --> 00:09:59,540 we became extras, and Lionel Jeffries was kind enough 159 00:09:59,540 --> 00:10:04,340 to give them a close shot in the film, and that was how kind he was, 160 00:10:04,340 --> 00:10:07,060 not to mention the fact that Lionel Jeffries also chose 161 00:10:07,060 --> 00:10:11,300 to keep the name Oakworth. Whereas in the book it's Meadow Vale. 162 00:10:11,300 --> 00:10:14,060 And it's been an absolute godsend to this railway, 163 00:10:14,060 --> 00:10:15,780 the fact that Oakworth was used. 164 00:10:17,180 --> 00:10:21,300 Today is Oakworth's annual Railway Children celebration, 165 00:10:21,300 --> 00:10:23,820 when locals and members of the railway 166 00:10:23,820 --> 00:10:26,220 re-enact scenes from the film. 167 00:10:27,540 --> 00:10:31,020 Hello. Hello. May I congratulate you on your costumes? 168 00:10:31,020 --> 00:10:33,740 You look absolutely wonderful. Thanks. 169 00:10:33,740 --> 00:10:35,900 What are you playing today? What parts? 170 00:10:35,900 --> 00:10:39,780 Roberta. Phyllis. And Peter. And which scenes are you playing? 171 00:10:39,780 --> 00:10:42,380 We're doing the petticoat scene where we stop the train. 172 00:10:42,380 --> 00:10:45,020 We come out of the station and jump off the platform, 173 00:10:45,020 --> 00:10:47,420 run down the side of the grass and stop at the end 174 00:10:47,420 --> 00:10:50,660 and wait for the train to come, and wave the petticoats and shout stop. 175 00:10:50,660 --> 00:10:53,540 And hopefully with train will stop. Are you involved in that? Yes. 176 00:10:53,540 --> 00:10:55,940 You haven't got a petticoat! No. 177 00:10:55,940 --> 00:10:57,780 We'll lend you one. SHE LAUGHS 178 00:10:57,780 --> 00:10:59,460 Have fun! Bye-bye. 179 00:11:01,780 --> 00:11:03,300 Hello. Hello there. 180 00:11:03,300 --> 00:11:05,940 Are you taking part in the recreation today? 181 00:11:05,940 --> 00:11:08,180 I'm playing Mr Perks. Perks! 182 00:11:08,180 --> 00:11:10,180 Hmm, I was rather hoping to play a part myself. 183 00:11:10,180 --> 00:11:13,660 Is there a part that I can do? Well, you could take my role for the next train, if you like. 184 00:11:13,660 --> 00:11:17,940 That would be fantastic, but I don't exactly look the part, do I? 185 00:11:17,940 --> 00:11:20,540 Oh, that's all right. I can kit you out. 186 00:11:20,540 --> 00:11:24,140 How's that looking? That looks all right on you. You can use my blazer. 187 00:11:24,140 --> 00:11:27,260 That's really kind of you. It's all right, no problem. 188 00:11:27,260 --> 00:11:28,900 Thank you very much. 189 00:11:28,900 --> 00:11:30,140 What do I have to do? 190 00:11:30,140 --> 00:11:33,340 When the train arrives, you shout "Oakworth, Oakworth Station," 191 00:11:33,340 --> 00:11:36,220 and this tells the passengers as the train arrives where they are. 192 00:11:36,220 --> 00:11:38,420 Well, thank you. I must go and practise my line. 193 00:11:40,500 --> 00:11:42,620 TRAIN WHISTLES 194 00:11:46,980 --> 00:11:53,780 Oakworth! Oakworth Station! 195 00:11:53,780 --> 00:11:54,900 CHEERING 196 00:11:54,900 --> 00:11:59,140 Oakworth! Oakworth Station! 197 00:11:59,140 --> 00:12:00,780 Oakworth! 198 00:12:08,700 --> 00:12:11,980 Still awaiting my first call from a casting agent, 199 00:12:11,980 --> 00:12:14,260 I'm taking the steam service to Keighley, 200 00:12:14,260 --> 00:12:17,820 then changing onto a Northern Rail service heading southeast. 201 00:12:21,700 --> 00:12:23,540 My next stop will be Bradford. 202 00:12:23,540 --> 00:12:27,380 Bradshaw's tells me that it's the great seat of the worsted trade, 203 00:12:27,380 --> 00:12:31,660 finely placed among the Yorkshire Hills, where three valleys meet. 204 00:12:31,660 --> 00:12:35,980 I'm going there to find out how we became a nation of homeowners. 205 00:12:35,980 --> 00:12:39,860 Because the names of Yorkshire towns - Bradford, Bingley, Halifax - 206 00:12:39,860 --> 00:12:42,220 make me think of building societies. 207 00:12:47,700 --> 00:12:50,300 Bradford is yet another northern town 208 00:12:50,300 --> 00:12:54,780 transformed by the steam-powered mills of the Industrial Revolution. 209 00:12:54,780 --> 00:12:59,540 Wealth poured in, but whilst the council built an opulent town hall, 210 00:12:59,540 --> 00:13:02,540 many of Bradford's workers lived in abject squalor. 211 00:13:04,980 --> 00:13:07,620 Some put their faith in self-improvement, 212 00:13:07,620 --> 00:13:10,660 in particular by saving with the building society. 213 00:13:12,700 --> 00:13:15,540 Liz McIvor is curator of social history 214 00:13:15,540 --> 00:13:20,580 at Bradford Museum in Eccleshill, northeast of the city centre. 215 00:13:20,580 --> 00:13:23,460 What were housing conditions like in a place like Bradford 216 00:13:23,460 --> 00:13:25,420 in the early part of the 19th century? 217 00:13:25,420 --> 00:13:27,940 Basically, very old buildings that were tenemented 218 00:13:27,940 --> 00:13:31,980 to take a whole family in one room. Very, very poor access to facilities. 219 00:13:31,980 --> 00:13:33,860 What did they do for sanitation? 220 00:13:33,860 --> 00:13:36,740 Well, mostly a couple of streets might have a middenhead, 221 00:13:36,740 --> 00:13:38,860 which was literally a hole in the ground 222 00:13:38,860 --> 00:13:40,660 emptied by night soil men regularly, 223 00:13:40,660 --> 00:13:44,180 but the problem with that is that the private landlords were supposed to 224 00:13:44,180 --> 00:13:48,180 arrange that, and a lot of them were very unscrupulous and didn't, 225 00:13:48,180 --> 00:13:51,420 so you would have build-up, and basically the pits would become too full 226 00:13:51,420 --> 00:13:54,100 so cellar dwellings at the bottom of the tenement buildings 227 00:13:54,100 --> 00:13:55,220 would fill with sewage. 228 00:13:55,220 --> 00:13:59,820 And what opportunity did working men and women's have to save, 229 00:13:59,820 --> 00:14:01,220 to buy a place of their own? 230 00:14:01,220 --> 00:14:03,500 Well, at the beginning of the Industrial Revolution 231 00:14:03,500 --> 00:14:06,820 not very much, but some of the better-off workers who might earn 232 00:14:06,820 --> 00:14:08,940 that little bit might have just a little bit of cash 233 00:14:08,940 --> 00:14:10,020 to put aside in savings. 234 00:14:10,020 --> 00:14:13,140 So what was the principle of these building societies? 235 00:14:13,140 --> 00:14:15,140 Well, the basic idea of a building society 236 00:14:15,140 --> 00:14:16,740 that makes it different from the bank 237 00:14:16,740 --> 00:14:19,900 is that all the people that invest in the building society 238 00:14:19,900 --> 00:14:23,020 are basically like the shareholders, they all get some profit, 239 00:14:23,020 --> 00:14:24,900 they all get a return on their investments. 240 00:14:24,900 --> 00:14:27,060 Whereas a bank is a private limited company 241 00:14:27,060 --> 00:14:30,300 where the shareholders make all the profits. 242 00:14:30,300 --> 00:14:34,860 The first building society, formed in Birmingham in 1775, 243 00:14:34,860 --> 00:14:37,020 was a terminating society, 244 00:14:37,020 --> 00:14:40,100 which closed when all its members had been housed 245 00:14:40,100 --> 00:14:42,500 in the property for which they'd jointly paid. 246 00:14:42,500 --> 00:14:46,300 The 1836 Building Societies Act 247 00:14:46,300 --> 00:14:49,380 made it easier to form the permanent building societies 248 00:14:49,380 --> 00:14:50,500 that we know today. 249 00:14:50,500 --> 00:14:53,700 And by 1860 there were almost 3,000. 250 00:14:56,900 --> 00:14:59,940 These back-to-back houses were some of the first 251 00:14:59,940 --> 00:15:03,940 to be built by a building society in Bradford. 252 00:15:03,940 --> 00:15:06,620 So welcome to number 25 Gaythorne Row. 253 00:15:07,660 --> 00:15:10,740 So obviously this is a huge improvement 254 00:15:10,740 --> 00:15:13,380 on insanitary and crowded conditions. 255 00:15:13,380 --> 00:15:15,820 Still quite tight, I must say. 256 00:15:15,820 --> 00:15:17,500 What sort of a family would live here? 257 00:15:17,500 --> 00:15:20,540 People would quite happily have lived here with maybe six children, 258 00:15:20,540 --> 00:15:22,100 and yes, it is very cramped, 259 00:15:22,100 --> 00:15:24,620 it's one room at the bottom, one room at the top, 260 00:15:24,620 --> 00:15:28,380 but you have your own outside toilet, that's a massive improvement. 261 00:15:28,380 --> 00:15:30,020 And where's the bathroom? 262 00:15:30,020 --> 00:15:31,620 There isn't a bathroom unfortunately. 263 00:15:31,620 --> 00:15:34,460 There's a tin bath on the wall on a hook, which you would bring in 264 00:15:34,460 --> 00:15:36,900 in front of the fire and have your weekly bath. 265 00:15:36,900 --> 00:15:39,940 So what stratum of society would be living in a house like this? 266 00:15:39,940 --> 00:15:42,940 It would be a skilled worker or an artisan worker. 267 00:15:42,940 --> 00:15:44,860 I'm going to show you an object. 268 00:15:44,860 --> 00:15:48,900 This is a penny saving bank, and it looks like a book, 269 00:15:48,900 --> 00:15:50,740 but it's actually got a hole in the back 270 00:15:50,740 --> 00:15:53,180 for a penny or small coins to go into, 271 00:15:53,180 --> 00:15:55,020 and then the idea was once you filled it up 272 00:15:55,020 --> 00:15:57,220 you could take it to your building society officer, 273 00:15:57,220 --> 00:16:01,980 he has the key, he unlocks it to put it into your savings account. 274 00:16:01,980 --> 00:16:04,820 The building society movement really allowed for the first time 275 00:16:04,820 --> 00:16:09,020 working people to think about saving and think about improving your life. 276 00:16:16,500 --> 00:16:18,780 'It's been a long day. 277 00:16:18,780 --> 00:16:21,980 'Hoping for the luxury of an inside bathroom, 278 00:16:21,980 --> 00:16:24,860 'I'm heading back to the city centre.' 279 00:16:24,860 --> 00:16:29,100 As so often, Bradshaw's provides the clue for my overnight stay. 280 00:16:29,100 --> 00:16:32,580 Bradford, it says, is where three rail branch lines meet - 281 00:16:32,580 --> 00:16:37,220 The Lancashire and Yorkshire, Great Northern, and the Midland mainline. 282 00:16:37,220 --> 00:16:40,060 The Midland built a flagship hotel here, 283 00:16:40,060 --> 00:16:44,420 and this opulently-tiled corridor led directly from the platform 284 00:16:44,420 --> 00:16:45,860 to the elegance within. 285 00:16:47,780 --> 00:16:53,140 'Opened in 1890, the hotel was designed with Renaissance grandeur. 286 00:16:53,140 --> 00:16:56,540 'Today's general manager is Gary Peacock.' 287 00:16:56,540 --> 00:17:00,460 It is a magnificent hotel. It must have superb history? 288 00:17:00,460 --> 00:17:04,460 Absolutely. It was a significant part of the Victorian heritage of the city. 289 00:17:04,460 --> 00:17:07,940 And I suppose in the 19th century great people were staying here? 290 00:17:07,940 --> 00:17:10,140 The politicians, the celebrities, the actors, 291 00:17:10,140 --> 00:17:12,820 the actresses of the day from all over the world. 292 00:17:12,820 --> 00:17:16,060 Are there any stories around the hotel that I should know? 293 00:17:16,060 --> 00:17:20,500 Probably the most significant is the death, right here at the foot of the main staircase, 294 00:17:20,500 --> 00:17:23,940 of Sir Henry Irving, the famous Victorian actor. 295 00:17:23,940 --> 00:17:25,580 Felt a bit ill on stage, 296 00:17:25,580 --> 00:17:28,420 came back from the Theatre Royal having played Beckett, 297 00:17:28,420 --> 00:17:29,460 was put into a chair, 298 00:17:29,460 --> 00:17:32,900 and unfortunately he died at the foot of the main staircase. 299 00:17:32,900 --> 00:17:36,180 And prophetically the last words he ever uttered on stage were, 300 00:17:36,180 --> 00:17:39,180 "Into Thy hands, O Lord - into Thy hands!" 301 00:17:49,740 --> 00:17:53,980 Thankful for an uneventful night, I'm heading to Bradford Interchange 302 00:17:53,980 --> 00:17:56,060 from where I'm travelling southwest. 303 00:18:02,780 --> 00:18:06,820 Bradshaw's tells me that four centuries ago my next stop, Halifax, 304 00:18:06,820 --> 00:18:11,300 had but 13 houses. But the spirit of commercial enterprise 305 00:18:11,300 --> 00:18:16,180 has recently manifested itself by the rapid growth of the town. 306 00:18:16,180 --> 00:18:19,420 One enterprise filled the streets of the town 307 00:18:19,420 --> 00:18:21,860 with the sweet smell of success. 308 00:18:24,700 --> 00:18:27,940 The Piece Hall in Halifax is the sole survivor 309 00:18:27,940 --> 00:18:33,020 of the great 18th century cloth markets of northern England. 310 00:18:33,020 --> 00:18:36,180 During the 19th century, textiles were industrialised, 311 00:18:36,180 --> 00:18:40,740 forcing domestic cloth-workers to find jobs elsewhere. 312 00:18:40,740 --> 00:18:45,020 The enterprising John Mackintosh turned to toffee. 313 00:18:45,020 --> 00:18:48,260 Alex Hutchinson is the Mackintosh company archivist. 314 00:18:48,260 --> 00:18:49,660 Hello, Alex. Hello. 315 00:18:49,660 --> 00:18:53,340 You have a lovely railway station. Why are we meeting just here? 316 00:18:53,340 --> 00:18:56,180 Although this building says Halifax Flour Society, 317 00:18:56,180 --> 00:19:00,020 right here is where the Mackintosh family of Halifax made their toffee. 318 00:19:00,020 --> 00:19:02,580 How did it all start? 319 00:19:02,580 --> 00:19:06,780 Violet Taylor, who later became Violet Mackintosh, who was born in 1866, 320 00:19:06,780 --> 00:19:10,620 got an apprenticeship in a confectioner's shop where she learned to make a new type of toffee. 321 00:19:10,620 --> 00:19:14,860 She invented it. Up until that point, all English toffee was brittle, hard butterscotch. 322 00:19:14,860 --> 00:19:18,100 Tough stuff. And there was runny American caramel, and she worked out 323 00:19:18,100 --> 00:19:20,620 how to blend the two and make a chewy toffee. 324 00:19:20,620 --> 00:19:22,780 And she married a nice chap called John Mackintosh 325 00:19:22,780 --> 00:19:25,820 and she and her husband, instead of having a honeymoon, 326 00:19:25,820 --> 00:19:29,020 bought a little pastry cook shop where she sold it, and suddenly it 327 00:19:29,020 --> 00:19:31,940 really took off, and then within a couple of years they had to 328 00:19:31,940 --> 00:19:35,380 open a factory and were selling it nationwide and then internationally. 329 00:19:35,380 --> 00:19:38,260 It was such an accessible purchase for working people. 330 00:19:38,260 --> 00:19:40,300 It was bringing confectionery to every man. 331 00:19:40,300 --> 00:19:42,300 The fact that the factory is next to the railway 332 00:19:42,300 --> 00:19:44,780 leads me to hope that there's a railway connection. 333 00:19:44,780 --> 00:19:48,380 Mackintosh's needed to be near the railway so their ingredients could come in by train 334 00:19:48,380 --> 00:19:50,700 and they could send their finished goods out the same way. 335 00:19:52,860 --> 00:19:54,460 Methodist teetotallers, 336 00:19:54,460 --> 00:19:58,900 the Mackintosh family legacy is certainly something to chew over. 337 00:19:58,900 --> 00:20:02,900 Bring home Quality Street, and you'll be a prince in her eyes. 338 00:20:06,260 --> 00:20:09,100 Their most famous boxed confectionery assortment, 339 00:20:09,100 --> 00:20:11,980 currently exported to 70 countries, 340 00:20:11,980 --> 00:20:15,620 was created and first manufactured in this factory. 341 00:20:19,860 --> 00:20:22,100 Their product was affordable for the working man, 342 00:20:22,100 --> 00:20:25,380 but it was still a luxury product and they knew that it wasn't an essential 343 00:20:25,380 --> 00:20:29,380 so to entice their new consumers, for the first week, they gave their product away for free. 344 00:20:29,380 --> 00:20:32,020 And then the following week they put in this ad. 345 00:20:32,020 --> 00:20:35,340 "On Saturday last, you were eating Mackintosh's Toffee at our expense. 346 00:20:35,340 --> 00:20:38,140 "Next Saturday pay us another visit and eat it at your own expense." 347 00:20:38,140 --> 00:20:39,940 That's brilliant. Brilliant. 348 00:20:39,940 --> 00:20:42,100 Which was a very unusual way of advertising. 349 00:20:42,100 --> 00:20:43,940 What else did they do to market the product? 350 00:20:43,940 --> 00:20:45,740 We have an advertisement here, 351 00:20:45,740 --> 00:20:49,380 and Mackintosh's are telling boys and girls everywhere on their holidays 352 00:20:49,380 --> 00:20:51,620 to write the words Mackintosh's Toffee in the sand. 353 00:20:51,620 --> 00:20:55,020 If they're seen by someone from Mackintosh's factory they'll be given a prize. 354 00:20:55,020 --> 00:20:57,820 There must have been thousands of children up and down the nation 355 00:20:57,820 --> 00:20:59,860 writing Mackintosh's Toffee everywhere you go. 356 00:20:59,860 --> 00:21:03,940 Absolutely brilliant. What kind of people were they, the Mackintoshes? 357 00:21:03,940 --> 00:21:07,020 John, I think, was what we would call now a little bit of a workaholic. 358 00:21:07,020 --> 00:21:10,060 He really, really lived for the business. And she? 359 00:21:10,060 --> 00:21:12,500 She loved wearing ermine. And looking glamorous. 360 00:21:12,500 --> 00:21:14,860 Once she'd invented this new type of toffee, 361 00:21:14,860 --> 00:21:17,180 she was more than happy for John to take all of the credit, 362 00:21:17,180 --> 00:21:21,420 call himself the Toffee King and she took a back seat and enjoyed life. 363 00:21:22,620 --> 00:21:25,900 The company, acquired by Nestle in 1988, 364 00:21:25,900 --> 00:21:29,740 produces billions of toffees every year at its Halifax factory. 365 00:21:32,140 --> 00:21:35,860 There is absolutely an unmistakable smell of toffee, isn't there? 366 00:21:37,780 --> 00:21:39,900 And this here is our toffee machine. 367 00:21:41,140 --> 00:21:43,820 It's making toffee to exactly the same recipe 368 00:21:43,820 --> 00:21:45,500 that Violet would have been using. 369 00:21:49,220 --> 00:21:51,500 That is a toffeeholic's dream, isn't it? 370 00:21:57,180 --> 00:22:00,620 I'm tempted to linger and gorge myself on toffee, 371 00:22:00,620 --> 00:22:04,860 but I must continue my journey south to this leg's final destination. 372 00:22:09,980 --> 00:22:12,620 Huddersfield is my next stop. Bradshaw's tells me 373 00:22:12,620 --> 00:22:16,340 it's the seat of the woollen trade in the West Riding of Yorkshire. 374 00:22:16,340 --> 00:22:19,940 "Woollens, fancy Valencias, shawls are the staple articles 375 00:22:19,940 --> 00:22:24,460 "of manufacture besides corduroy," which I am wearing at the moment. 376 00:22:24,460 --> 00:22:27,020 Huddersfield had a reputation for quality. 377 00:22:27,020 --> 00:22:28,860 I wonder whether it has it still. 378 00:22:30,260 --> 00:22:33,980 As the town industrialised, the merchants who traded in it 379 00:22:33,980 --> 00:22:36,580 and the Ramsden family, who owned most of it, 380 00:22:36,580 --> 00:22:38,220 decided that Huddersfield 381 00:22:38,220 --> 00:22:43,060 should retain the long-established reputation for upmarket cloth. 382 00:22:45,340 --> 00:22:49,300 The neoclassical railway station, completed in 1850, 383 00:22:49,300 --> 00:22:53,460 was clearly the result of burning civic pride. 384 00:22:53,460 --> 00:22:57,460 I've never been to Huddersfield before, and I am overwhelmed. 385 00:22:57,460 --> 00:23:02,180 This square is beautiful, and above all the railway station 386 00:23:02,180 --> 00:23:05,020 is one of the best I've seen in Britain. 387 00:23:05,020 --> 00:23:07,140 I believe someone once described it 388 00:23:07,140 --> 00:23:10,100 as a stately home with trains passing through it. 389 00:23:10,100 --> 00:23:14,140 And sadly, with his back to this architectural gem, 390 00:23:14,140 --> 00:23:20,020 my childhood hero Prime Minister and Huddersfield boy Harold Wilson. 391 00:23:22,900 --> 00:23:26,060 Wilson famously described 1960s Britain 392 00:23:26,060 --> 00:23:30,340 as being forged in "the white heat of technology." 393 00:23:30,340 --> 00:23:33,260 He could have been speaking of his home town a century before, 394 00:23:33,260 --> 00:23:37,740 for in Victorian Huddersfield, new designs of looms and processes 395 00:23:37,740 --> 00:23:40,460 produced the very finest cloth. 396 00:23:42,540 --> 00:23:46,860 Established in 1883, Taylor & Lodge makes luxury fabric 397 00:23:46,860 --> 00:23:50,700 for suits that can cost up to £25,000. 398 00:23:52,980 --> 00:23:56,260 For more than a century, generations of skilled craftsmen 399 00:23:56,260 --> 00:23:58,460 have toiled on the original looms 400 00:23:58,460 --> 00:24:01,860 still operated by pattern weavers like Brendan Crowther. 401 00:24:03,500 --> 00:24:06,260 Hello. Hello. Hiya. 402 00:24:06,260 --> 00:24:08,460 What sort of cloth is this? 403 00:24:08,460 --> 00:24:12,060 This here, this is a two and two twirl, this. It's a worsted. 404 00:24:12,060 --> 00:24:17,860 A worsted. And I suppose you've got warp and weft. How does all that work? 405 00:24:17,860 --> 00:24:21,060 Well, this is your warp. These go through here. 406 00:24:21,060 --> 00:24:24,220 And your weft is sent across by the shuttles. 407 00:24:24,220 --> 00:24:26,700 Now that is a good old-fashioned methodology, isn't it? 408 00:24:26,700 --> 00:24:28,660 May we actually see the thing in action? 409 00:24:28,660 --> 00:24:29,900 Yeah, I don't see why not. 410 00:24:33,740 --> 00:24:35,900 And now we see the pattern building up. 411 00:24:39,900 --> 00:24:41,660 That is mesmerising. 412 00:24:41,660 --> 00:24:43,580 You know, Brendan, I often see machines 413 00:24:43,580 --> 00:24:45,340 and I have no idea what is going on. 414 00:24:45,340 --> 00:24:49,020 But this one, I suppose because it's quite an old technology, 415 00:24:49,020 --> 00:24:53,260 it's perfectly clear how that is working. 416 00:24:53,260 --> 00:24:55,980 Real Victorian engineering. 417 00:25:00,740 --> 00:25:04,260 With 83 tailors in Huddersfield in Bradshaw's day, 418 00:25:04,260 --> 00:25:07,780 it would be remiss not to meet one while I'm here. 419 00:25:07,780 --> 00:25:10,540 I'm visiting Jon Fairweather at Carl Stuart. 420 00:25:12,620 --> 00:25:14,620 Very good to see you. 421 00:25:14,620 --> 00:25:16,420 I've often had suits made, 422 00:25:16,420 --> 00:25:20,500 and tailors tend to be very polite, almost flattering. 423 00:25:20,500 --> 00:25:23,140 If you assess me as a customer, what are you really thinking? 424 00:25:23,140 --> 00:25:25,780 Firstly, you've got to make the customer relax 425 00:25:25,780 --> 00:25:29,420 because you don't want to be stood shoulders out, stomach in. 426 00:25:29,420 --> 00:25:33,140 Most people have got one shoulder lower than the other, and you have. 427 00:25:33,140 --> 00:25:34,860 This one, right? Correct. 428 00:25:34,860 --> 00:25:37,820 That's where I've been writing over the years, here. 429 00:25:37,820 --> 00:25:39,980 All them cheques! HE LAUGHS 430 00:25:39,980 --> 00:25:42,660 We can make you look normal. 431 00:25:42,660 --> 00:25:47,700 OK, so you've measured me up, let's say, I've chosen my cloth. 432 00:25:47,700 --> 00:25:49,340 Right. What do you do next? 433 00:25:49,340 --> 00:25:52,380 We put all the figurations down on the cutting sheet, 434 00:25:52,380 --> 00:25:56,020 and then it's all adjusted from the block patterns. 435 00:25:56,020 --> 00:25:58,100 You're doing that just by eye now? 436 00:25:58,100 --> 00:26:01,940 Yeah. So how many years has it taken you to learn those tricks? 437 00:26:01,940 --> 00:26:03,340 I've been doing it 50 years. 438 00:26:03,340 --> 00:26:05,140 It used to be a seven-year apprenticeship 439 00:26:05,140 --> 00:26:06,980 to be a tailor and cutter when I started. 440 00:26:06,980 --> 00:26:10,660 And it's only five years for brain surgeon, so... 441 00:26:10,660 --> 00:26:12,100 We should be on a level. 442 00:26:12,100 --> 00:26:14,940 So anything very different about what you're doing here 443 00:26:14,940 --> 00:26:18,340 and what your Victorian predecessors would've done? 444 00:26:18,340 --> 00:26:22,580 In the bespoke trade, doing this, it would be exactly the same. 445 00:26:22,580 --> 00:26:25,220 So we've now made our adjustments here. What do you do next? 446 00:26:25,220 --> 00:26:30,060 Right. When the whole suit's chalked in, then you start cutting. 447 00:26:31,420 --> 00:26:33,420 You can have a go, if you want. Oh, thank you. 448 00:26:33,420 --> 00:26:36,660 You start at that end and go around, if you wish. 449 00:26:36,660 --> 00:26:39,180 This says Made in Huddersfield. 450 00:26:39,180 --> 00:26:41,500 And is that still an important cache? 451 00:26:41,500 --> 00:26:43,820 Oh, yeah. Made in England definitely. 452 00:26:43,820 --> 00:26:47,420 Made in Huddersfield is cream on the top. 453 00:26:47,420 --> 00:26:49,740 Where does that go then? That's the front. 454 00:26:53,700 --> 00:26:55,140 That's your button. 455 00:26:55,140 --> 00:26:57,020 That's your lapel. 456 00:26:57,020 --> 00:26:59,820 Now where does this bit go? That's the other side. 457 00:26:59,820 --> 00:27:03,700 You cut everything on the double. Two fronts, two backs, two sleeves. 458 00:27:05,100 --> 00:27:08,140 How do I look? Amazing! 459 00:27:08,140 --> 00:27:09,180 JON LAUGHS 460 00:27:18,940 --> 00:27:20,180 I've been thinking, 461 00:27:20,180 --> 00:27:23,780 how many more great novels the Bronte sisters might have written 462 00:27:23,780 --> 00:27:28,940 had they not died aged 29, 30 and 38. 463 00:27:28,940 --> 00:27:32,180 Tuberculosis stalked 19th century Britain 464 00:27:32,180 --> 00:27:37,420 and cholera killed many in their prime, including George Bradshaw. 465 00:27:37,420 --> 00:27:40,700 Fortunately, later in Queen Victoria's reign, 466 00:27:40,700 --> 00:27:46,220 engineers and reformers made progress with sanitation and public health. 467 00:27:54,660 --> 00:27:56,660 'On the next leg of my journey, 468 00:27:56,660 --> 00:27:58,940 'I'm given a Victorian music lesson...' 469 00:27:58,940 --> 00:28:02,740 HE PLAYS INSTRUMENT WITH DIFFICULTY 470 00:28:02,740 --> 00:28:05,660 CHEERING Wow! 471 00:28:05,660 --> 00:28:08,940 'I learn of a watery tragedy in the Peak District...' 472 00:28:08,940 --> 00:28:13,740 The final death toll was about 81, of whom half were children. 473 00:28:13,740 --> 00:28:16,820 'And I make a splash in Derbyshire.' 474 00:28:16,820 --> 00:28:18,220 Whoa! 475 00:28:18,220 --> 00:28:21,420 I never produced as big an impact as that!