1 00:00:05,020 --> 00:00:09,660 'In 1840, one man transformed travel in Britain. 2 00:00:09,660 --> 00:00:11,580 'His name was George Bradshaw 3 00:00:11,580 --> 00:00:15,740 'and his railway guides inspired the Victorians to take to the tracks. 4 00:00:17,180 --> 00:00:20,020 'Stop by stop, he told them where to go, 5 00:00:20,020 --> 00:00:23,060 'what to see and where to stay. 6 00:00:23,060 --> 00:00:25,180 'And now, 170 years later, 7 00:00:25,180 --> 00:00:28,540 'I'm aboard for a series of rail adventures 8 00:00:28,540 --> 00:00:30,380 'across the United Kingdom 9 00:00:30,380 --> 00:00:33,380 'to see what of Bradshaw's Britain remains.' 10 00:00:51,060 --> 00:00:54,540 During the course of my journeys, I've often been struck 11 00:00:54,540 --> 00:00:58,100 by how the Victorians pushed out the boundaries of human knowledge. 12 00:00:58,100 --> 00:01:01,460 Today, I want to see how subsequent generations inherited 13 00:01:01,460 --> 00:01:06,780 their spirit with new things being discovered and indeed unearthed. 14 00:01:14,660 --> 00:01:17,420 All this week, I've been travelling away from the capital 15 00:01:17,420 --> 00:01:18,700 and its toiling masses, 16 00:01:18,700 --> 00:01:22,420 heading north on Stephenson's London to Birmingham line. 17 00:01:22,420 --> 00:01:23,820 I've yet to explore 18 00:01:23,820 --> 00:01:26,340 the Victorian manufacturing hub of the East Midlands 19 00:01:26,340 --> 00:01:30,100 before ending my journey in the Yorkshire city of Leeds. 20 00:01:32,140 --> 00:01:35,580 On today's journey, I travel on the first Victorian main line, 21 00:01:35,580 --> 00:01:37,820 through Leicestershire to Rothley, 22 00:01:37,820 --> 00:01:40,660 to meet up with the last main line to be built, 23 00:01:40,660 --> 00:01:43,060 and then it's a short hop to Loughborough. 24 00:01:44,420 --> 00:01:46,620 'On this leg of my journey, I swap hats 25 00:01:46,620 --> 00:01:49,940 'and view life from the other side of the tracks.' 26 00:01:49,940 --> 00:01:53,060 Rothley! This is Rothley! 27 00:01:53,060 --> 00:01:54,700 All aboard! 28 00:01:54,700 --> 00:01:56,940 'I discover an astronomical invention 29 00:01:56,940 --> 00:01:58,940 'that gave Hollywood a face-lift.' 30 00:01:58,940 --> 00:02:01,180 Am I on the dot? Yes, you are indeed. 31 00:02:01,180 --> 00:02:03,780 Wahey! I never expected to get that right. 32 00:02:03,780 --> 00:02:07,620 'And my mettle is tested at the world's largest bell foundry.' 33 00:02:07,620 --> 00:02:10,300 To say I'm out of my comfort zone is to put it mildly. 34 00:02:10,300 --> 00:02:14,220 There is molten metal leaping around in the room. 35 00:02:19,300 --> 00:02:22,300 As we approach Leicester, my Bradshaw's reminds me 36 00:02:22,300 --> 00:02:25,540 that, "the famous crook-backed King Richard III, 37 00:02:25,540 --> 00:02:28,620 "was brought here after the battle of Bosworth Field, 38 00:02:28,620 --> 00:02:30,780 "and buried in the Grey Priory." 39 00:02:30,780 --> 00:02:34,420 Nowadays we can find out whether Bradshaw's was right. 40 00:02:34,420 --> 00:02:37,140 My guidebook, also quotes Shakespeare, 41 00:02:37,140 --> 00:02:40,580 whose view of Richard was that he was a vile swine. 42 00:02:40,580 --> 00:02:43,060 Both the Victorians and, indeed, I have been greatly 43 00:02:43,060 --> 00:02:45,740 influenced in our view of Richard by the Bard. 44 00:02:47,220 --> 00:02:50,940 'The Bard and Bradshaw would be amazed that, centuries later, 45 00:02:50,940 --> 00:02:53,780 'the body of Richard would be discovered in a car park.' 46 00:02:54,860 --> 00:02:56,300 TANNOY: 'Leicester Station. 47 00:02:56,300 --> 00:03:00,100 'Leicester Station is going to be our final destination.' 48 00:03:00,100 --> 00:03:02,740 'Richard of York, later Richard III, 49 00:03:02,740 --> 00:03:06,580 'was named protector of two princes - his nephews. 50 00:03:06,580 --> 00:03:08,860 'To secure his succession to the throne, 51 00:03:08,860 --> 00:03:12,740 'it's rumoured that he had them murdered in the Tower of London. 52 00:03:12,740 --> 00:03:15,620 'I'm interested to know whether Shakespeare's view of Richard 53 00:03:15,620 --> 00:03:18,060 'is supported by historical fact. 54 00:03:18,060 --> 00:03:21,420 'I'm meeting Professor Gail Marshall from Leicester University 55 00:03:21,420 --> 00:03:23,860 'in the historic New Walk area of the city.' 56 00:03:25,180 --> 00:03:29,660 Bradshaw's quotes Shakespeare's view of Richard III as a vile swine. 57 00:03:29,660 --> 00:03:33,260 A pretty negative view. Was that the settled view of the time? 58 00:03:33,260 --> 00:03:36,420 Well, it was the view that he attributes to the Earl of Richmond, 59 00:03:36,420 --> 00:03:39,260 who would later become Henry VII, so it's very much the Tudor view. 60 00:03:39,260 --> 00:03:40,460 But what Shakespeare does, 61 00:03:40,460 --> 00:03:42,940 which is quite interesting, is add to that considerably. 62 00:03:42,940 --> 00:03:45,340 He makes Richard a much more interesting villain. 63 00:03:45,340 --> 00:03:48,220 He gives him the most tremendous linguistic resources. 64 00:03:48,220 --> 00:03:51,340 He gives him a limp as well, but the linguistic resources, I think, are 65 00:03:51,340 --> 00:03:53,940 the things that have captured the Elizabethans' imagination 66 00:03:53,940 --> 00:03:55,740 and still capture our imagination 67 00:03:55,740 --> 00:03:58,180 and obviously captured Bradshaw's imagination too. 68 00:03:58,180 --> 00:04:01,620 Do we know yet whether Richard III was a villain? 69 00:04:02,780 --> 00:04:05,060 I don't think we can possibly know that 70 00:04:05,060 --> 00:04:06,860 cos the sources are so contradictory. 71 00:04:06,860 --> 00:04:10,060 What we do know is that Shakespeare's version of Richard 72 00:04:10,060 --> 00:04:12,860 as a great villain, though an interesting villain, 73 00:04:12,860 --> 00:04:14,380 is one that's persisted. 74 00:04:14,380 --> 00:04:17,660 But I think what we can also think about now, uniquely, 75 00:04:17,660 --> 00:04:19,300 is the new source that we've got, 76 00:04:19,300 --> 00:04:21,460 which is the very source of Richard's own body, 77 00:04:21,460 --> 00:04:22,980 which has just been discovered. 78 00:04:22,980 --> 00:04:27,540 And I think that that visual image we have of the skeleton 79 00:04:27,540 --> 00:04:31,260 is possibly something that might begin to dispel our sense of Richard 80 00:04:31,260 --> 00:04:34,540 as a rather... You know, as a simply villainous character. 81 00:04:39,020 --> 00:04:42,420 'It's truly remarkable that, 528 years later, 82 00:04:42,420 --> 00:04:44,860 'we have this new evidence. 83 00:04:44,860 --> 00:04:47,580 'There were indications that Richard's body had been buried 84 00:04:47,580 --> 00:04:50,580 'in Leicester, in Grey Friar's Friary. 85 00:04:50,580 --> 00:04:53,620 'Today there's nothing left of the Friary, so looking 86 00:04:53,620 --> 00:04:57,700 'for his body was like looking for a needle in a haystack. 87 00:04:57,700 --> 00:05:01,140 'But under this white marquee in a council car park 88 00:05:01,140 --> 00:05:03,940 'turned out to be the spot. 89 00:05:03,940 --> 00:05:06,460 'Very kindly, the Leicester University archaeologists 90 00:05:06,460 --> 00:05:08,660 'Richard Buckley and Matthew Morris 91 00:05:08,660 --> 00:05:12,700 'have agreed to meet me at the site of their great discovery.' 92 00:05:13,820 --> 00:05:15,380 So who actually found him? 93 00:05:15,380 --> 00:05:17,140 That'll be me. 94 00:05:17,140 --> 00:05:18,620 Were you looking for him? 95 00:05:18,620 --> 00:05:19,860 Well, yes and no. 96 00:05:19,860 --> 00:05:22,740 I mean, the project was looking with the hope of finding him 97 00:05:22,740 --> 00:05:24,380 but it was always going to be a long shot. 98 00:05:24,380 --> 00:05:27,060 When we put the first trench in, there was no way we knew we were 99 00:05:27,060 --> 00:05:30,020 going to find him within the first couple of hours of the excavation. 100 00:05:30,020 --> 00:05:33,460 It wasn't until we'd literally found the vertebrae that we actually 101 00:05:33,460 --> 00:05:35,700 suddenly saw with dawning realisation 102 00:05:35,700 --> 00:05:38,620 that actually this could be who we're looking for all along. 103 00:05:38,620 --> 00:05:40,380 Because it had this kind of S curvature? 104 00:05:40,380 --> 00:05:43,540 Yeah, and it was really obvious S curvature in the ground. 105 00:05:43,540 --> 00:05:47,540 You couldn't mistake it for anything other than scoliosis. 106 00:05:47,540 --> 00:05:50,300 And had it been assumed that Shakespeare was right that 107 00:05:50,300 --> 00:05:52,420 Richard had had this disability? 108 00:05:52,420 --> 00:05:54,180 Well, we came with very open minds. 109 00:05:54,180 --> 00:05:57,340 I think we thought we might excavate up to six sets of remains 110 00:05:57,340 --> 00:06:00,140 of individuals, who were males, of course, 111 00:06:00,140 --> 00:06:01,540 and we might be lucky to find 112 00:06:01,540 --> 00:06:04,220 some evidence that one of them had died in battle. 113 00:06:04,220 --> 00:06:07,180 We didn't think for a minute that we'd find an individual who had such 114 00:06:07,180 --> 00:06:10,220 obvious characteristics like the scoliosis. 115 00:06:10,220 --> 00:06:13,060 'The other obvious indicators were the injuries that Richard 116 00:06:13,060 --> 00:06:16,900 'sustained at the battle of Bosworth Field in 1485. 117 00:06:16,900 --> 00:06:19,980 'Fighting his Lancastrian rival, Henry Tudor, 118 00:06:19,980 --> 00:06:23,260 'some of his army defected, leaving Richard vulnerable. 119 00:06:23,260 --> 00:06:25,980 'He suffered numerous blows to the head. 120 00:06:25,980 --> 00:06:29,380 'His naked body was then paraded through Leicester.' 121 00:06:29,380 --> 00:06:33,380 How lucky was it that you discovered that bone? 122 00:06:33,380 --> 00:06:35,380 Incredibly lucky. I mean, 123 00:06:35,380 --> 00:06:38,460 we always planned on putting a trench broadly here, 124 00:06:38,460 --> 00:06:42,380 but the minutiae of the placement, you know, 50cm here, 50cm there... 125 00:06:42,380 --> 00:06:46,380 And you can see, that was the edge of our original trench there. 126 00:06:46,380 --> 00:06:49,220 If I'd moved it slightly further that way, we'd have missed him 127 00:06:49,220 --> 00:06:52,420 entirely and not known he was there. All of this is a modern cellar 128 00:06:52,420 --> 00:06:55,300 and it came to within that far above his legs. 129 00:06:55,300 --> 00:06:57,740 If they'd dug it any deeper than they actually had, 130 00:06:57,740 --> 00:07:00,540 we wouldn't have had him from the waist down at the very least. 131 00:07:00,540 --> 00:07:03,540 If they'd made it slightly wider, we might not have had him at all. 132 00:07:03,540 --> 00:07:04,740 Extraordinary. 133 00:07:09,060 --> 00:07:11,980 'Remarkably, it was world-renowned work on DNA done over many years 134 00:07:11,980 --> 00:07:16,460 'that enabled scientists to provide comprehensive proof 135 00:07:16,460 --> 00:07:19,060 'that this was the lost King of England 136 00:07:19,060 --> 00:07:22,020 'and that he'd died a bloody death aged 32. 137 00:07:23,300 --> 00:07:24,980 'I'm meeting Professor Schurer 138 00:07:24,980 --> 00:07:27,420 'at Leicester University's genetics department 139 00:07:27,420 --> 00:07:30,260 'where Richard's body was sent for DNA profiling.' 140 00:07:33,540 --> 00:07:36,140 Now, I believe that DNA was discovered 141 00:07:36,140 --> 00:07:38,940 about half a century ago, wasn't it? 142 00:07:38,940 --> 00:07:40,140 But a great breakthrough 143 00:07:40,140 --> 00:07:42,420 was made at the University of Leicester wasn't it? 144 00:07:42,420 --> 00:07:48,060 Absolutely. In fact, at five past nine on September the tenth, 1984, 145 00:07:48,060 --> 00:07:52,780 now Sir Alec Jeffries had an absolute breakthrough when he realised 146 00:07:52,780 --> 00:07:57,140 that DNA could be fingerprinted in such a way 147 00:07:57,140 --> 00:08:00,260 that meant that everybody had an individual marker. 148 00:08:00,260 --> 00:08:04,300 'I can see why they'd bring the bones here for DNA testing, but what 149 00:08:04,300 --> 00:08:09,020 'I don't understand is how they'd identify the DNA as Richard's.' 150 00:08:09,020 --> 00:08:12,100 It's important to realise that there are two fundamental parts 151 00:08:12,100 --> 00:08:14,900 of our DNA. They are inherited from our father, 152 00:08:14,900 --> 00:08:16,540 which is the Y chromosome - 153 00:08:16,540 --> 00:08:19,660 that passes from father to son, father to son, father to son. 154 00:08:19,660 --> 00:08:22,500 And, from our mother, we inherit DNA, 155 00:08:22,500 --> 00:08:27,220 both sons and daughters inherit mitochondrial DNA. 156 00:08:27,220 --> 00:08:29,300 But only women can pass it on. 157 00:08:29,300 --> 00:08:33,140 So what we were able to do was to trace living modern day 158 00:08:33,140 --> 00:08:37,260 descendants through Anne of York, his elder sister. 159 00:08:37,260 --> 00:08:40,940 So was this another fantastic chance that there was 160 00:08:40,940 --> 00:08:44,220 a daughter, followed by a daughter, followed by a daughter? 161 00:08:44,220 --> 00:08:47,300 It's so much of a chance, had we discovered the skeleton maybe in 162 00:08:47,300 --> 00:08:50,900 30 or 40 years' time, that line would have died out. 163 00:08:50,900 --> 00:08:54,780 All of the living day descendants of Anne of York 164 00:08:54,780 --> 00:08:57,820 are the last of their line. They will not be passing on 165 00:08:57,820 --> 00:09:00,460 mitochondrial DNA to a next generation. 166 00:09:00,460 --> 00:09:04,100 This is the stuff of fiction, isn't it? Absolutely extraordinary. 167 00:09:04,100 --> 00:09:07,300 'Anne died giving birth to her only daughter from her second 168 00:09:07,300 --> 00:09:09,180 'marriage, Anne St Leger. 169 00:09:09,180 --> 00:09:12,100 'But in each successive generation after, there was 170 00:09:12,100 --> 00:09:14,860 'a daughter followed by a daughter. 171 00:09:14,860 --> 00:09:18,940 'In fact, Professor Schurer already knew about Canadian furniture maker 172 00:09:18,940 --> 00:09:22,820 'Michael Ibsen, descended through 17 generations. 173 00:09:22,820 --> 00:09:26,620 'But he was also able to trace another living descendant of Anne, 174 00:09:26,620 --> 00:09:28,700 'who remains anonymous. 175 00:09:28,700 --> 00:09:32,420 'Testing both their DNAs gave Schurer proof positive.' 176 00:09:32,420 --> 00:09:36,140 When we first of all realised that, A, those two people matched, 177 00:09:36,140 --> 00:09:40,380 who'd never met in their lives, had no idea of their existence. 178 00:09:40,380 --> 00:09:42,540 And then, of course, the whole thing triangulated 179 00:09:42,540 --> 00:09:46,540 with the mitochondrial DNA extracted from the skeleton. 180 00:09:46,540 --> 00:09:48,180 And that was another Eureka moment. 181 00:09:48,180 --> 00:09:52,900 So, you had two people whose DNA matched, 182 00:09:52,900 --> 00:09:56,260 and then you bring the sample from bone and it matches too. 183 00:09:56,260 --> 00:09:57,580 Indeed. 184 00:09:57,580 --> 00:09:59,220 Closely? 185 00:09:59,220 --> 00:10:02,380 Very, very closely. Yes. 186 00:10:02,380 --> 00:10:05,660 No doubt about it, the fellow in the car park is Richard III. 187 00:10:05,660 --> 00:10:08,060 The fellow in the car park is Richard III. 188 00:10:12,740 --> 00:10:16,820 'I find the fortuitous discovery of Richard and the happy coincidences 189 00:10:16,820 --> 00:10:18,500 'that allowed the university 190 00:10:18,500 --> 00:10:21,700 'to offer proof of his identity really exciting. 191 00:10:21,700 --> 00:10:24,780 'A modern Bradshaw would surely recommend a visit to Leicester 192 00:10:24,780 --> 00:10:28,180 'to understand how science can make history live 193 00:10:28,180 --> 00:10:31,820 'and solve the puzzles that have perplexed us for centuries. 194 00:10:31,820 --> 00:10:35,300 'Much as I'd like to discover more, I must travel on, 195 00:10:35,300 --> 00:10:37,300 'just seven minutes down the line.' 196 00:10:42,420 --> 00:10:44,860 My next stop will be Syston, 197 00:10:44,860 --> 00:10:47,780 known to Bradshaw's as Syston Junction, where I intend to 198 00:10:47,780 --> 00:10:52,420 focus on a Victorian invention which has since stolen the limelight. 199 00:10:55,780 --> 00:11:00,060 'Syston was noteworthy enough to get a mention in the Domesday book 200 00:11:00,060 --> 00:11:03,740 'and the town is now known for the part it played in photography. 201 00:11:06,780 --> 00:11:10,620 'In the 1800s, the Victorians rapidly developed photography 202 00:11:10,620 --> 00:11:14,900 'and Cooke Optics became renowned for creating the triplet lens 203 00:11:14,900 --> 00:11:17,300 'that eliminated fuzzy photos. 204 00:11:17,300 --> 00:11:19,820 'From its historic Stoughton Street factory, 205 00:11:19,820 --> 00:11:22,420 'its lenses were exported all around the world. 206 00:11:24,420 --> 00:11:27,500 'Today, it is still one of the top lens suppliers to Hollywood 207 00:11:27,500 --> 00:11:30,820 'and I'm meeting its Chief Operating Officer Alan Merrells.' 208 00:11:34,020 --> 00:11:37,140 How did you first get involved with Hollywood, then? 209 00:11:37,140 --> 00:11:41,500 The defining point, really, was when films became talkies 210 00:11:41,500 --> 00:11:43,380 and were no longer silent. 211 00:11:43,380 --> 00:11:48,220 The silent movies were lit by arc lights, which were extremely noisy. 212 00:11:48,220 --> 00:11:50,460 And so you had to invent the silent light. 213 00:11:50,460 --> 00:11:54,060 Well, we didn't invent the silent light, but we actually had a lens 214 00:11:54,060 --> 00:11:57,260 that allowed a lot more light through and it enabled 215 00:11:57,260 --> 00:12:01,220 cinematographers to use a lower level of light to shoot the movies. 216 00:12:01,220 --> 00:12:05,220 And what's going on here? Basically, this is traditional polishing. 217 00:12:05,220 --> 00:12:08,300 It's been done like this for hundreds of years, really. 218 00:12:08,300 --> 00:12:12,220 It's quite an old machine, but we're using traditional techniques. 219 00:12:12,220 --> 00:12:16,460 Using... We've got multiple lenses in a block here, 220 00:12:16,460 --> 00:12:19,340 being actually polished with a pitch polisher. 221 00:12:19,340 --> 00:12:22,340 This goes back hundreds of years, basically, how we polish this. 222 00:12:22,340 --> 00:12:23,940 It's basically jeweller's rouge. 223 00:12:23,940 --> 00:12:27,300 And I suppose we're talking minute degrees of accuracy. 224 00:12:27,300 --> 00:12:30,100 That's correct, yeah. Approximately a millionth of an inch. 225 00:12:30,100 --> 00:12:32,500 Fantastic. Thank you very much indeed. 226 00:12:33,900 --> 00:12:36,940 'What makes the Triplet special is it's made up of three 227 00:12:36,940 --> 00:12:40,020 'precision lenses and, as you focus the camera, 228 00:12:40,020 --> 00:12:43,260 'the three work together to bring the picture into focus. 229 00:12:44,260 --> 00:12:47,940 'It became the lens of choice for professional photographers 230 00:12:47,940 --> 00:12:52,220 'like Frank Hurley, who in 1914 followed Ernest Shackleton 231 00:12:52,220 --> 00:12:55,660 'on his expedition to the South Pole. 232 00:12:55,660 --> 00:12:59,020 'Today, the skills of these Leicestershire craftsmen are still 233 00:12:59,020 --> 00:13:01,940 'highly prized, creating the Cooke Look 234 00:13:01,940 --> 00:13:05,300 'with their finest prime lenses.' 235 00:13:05,300 --> 00:13:07,620 So what exactly are you up to here? 236 00:13:07,620 --> 00:13:12,740 What I'm doing at the moment is calibrating a focus lens. 237 00:13:12,740 --> 00:13:15,020 Each focus lens has been calibrated 238 00:13:15,020 --> 00:13:18,620 so what you do is ten foot reads ten foot. 239 00:13:18,620 --> 00:13:21,380 Are you doing that by eye? We are indeed. 240 00:13:21,380 --> 00:13:24,980 How long have you been doing this? I've been doing it for 15 years. 241 00:13:24,980 --> 00:13:27,340 Can I do it for 15 seconds? Of course you can. 242 00:13:29,340 --> 00:13:31,420 I'll move it. 243 00:13:31,420 --> 00:13:32,780 So what do I have to do? 244 00:13:32,780 --> 00:13:37,340 Just focus a seaman's star. If I... Can you see an image there? 245 00:13:37,340 --> 00:13:41,020 I can see, yeah, a kind of fan shape. 246 00:13:41,020 --> 00:13:44,220 OK. If I move it, it'll disappear. Yeah, yeah. Right? 247 00:13:44,220 --> 00:13:46,180 Now you try and focus it. 248 00:13:46,180 --> 00:13:49,140 I can see a star. And I've got to bring that into focus. 249 00:13:49,140 --> 00:13:51,340 That's what you're looking for - a sharp image. OK. 250 00:13:51,340 --> 00:13:54,460 So, I'll over-correct so I go beyond it. 251 00:13:54,460 --> 00:13:55,980 That's gone beyond it. 252 00:13:58,100 --> 00:14:00,260 Until you get a sharp image. 253 00:14:00,260 --> 00:14:02,260 How's that? 254 00:14:02,260 --> 00:14:03,500 You look yourself. 255 00:14:05,300 --> 00:14:07,140 Crack onto it. 256 00:14:07,140 --> 00:14:08,580 Am I on the dot? 257 00:14:08,580 --> 00:14:10,620 Yes, you are indeed. Wahey! 258 00:14:10,620 --> 00:14:14,780 I never expected to get that right. Wow. 259 00:14:14,780 --> 00:14:18,340 'I'm beginning to feel a whole new career coming on. 260 00:14:18,340 --> 00:14:21,300 'This time, on the other side of the camera. 261 00:14:21,300 --> 00:14:24,420 'I can also see why the lenses have such an impressive filmography - 262 00:14:24,420 --> 00:14:29,140 'everything from James Bond to Harry Potter. 263 00:14:29,140 --> 00:14:32,740 'And in recognition of their 120 years of service to Hollywood, 264 00:14:32,740 --> 00:14:35,180 'they have just been awarded an Oscar' 265 00:14:35,180 --> 00:14:38,300 'For the team here in Leicester, many of whom are second 266 00:14:38,300 --> 00:14:42,300 'and third generation Cooke employees, it's a huge honour.' 267 00:14:50,060 --> 00:14:54,300 As the day draws to the end, I'm going to alight at Sileby station. 268 00:14:54,300 --> 00:14:59,420 Bradshaw's tells me in the vicinity is Mount Sorrel - a lovely spot. 269 00:14:59,420 --> 00:15:03,620 And draws attention to Rothley Temple, belonging to J Parker Esq. 270 00:15:03,620 --> 00:15:05,700 A good place to spend the night. 271 00:15:05,700 --> 00:15:08,820 I'll be interested to know how Rothley found its way, 272 00:15:08,820 --> 00:15:11,940 not only in to Bradshaw's, but also into the history books. 273 00:15:19,460 --> 00:15:23,340 'From 1231, Rothley was home to the Knights Templar, 274 00:15:23,340 --> 00:15:27,020 'who were rectors of the magnificent Catholic church. 275 00:15:27,020 --> 00:15:29,220 'After their demise, the Babington family 276 00:15:29,220 --> 00:15:33,820 'began their eight generations of residence, until 1845. 277 00:15:33,820 --> 00:15:38,780 'Then the Manor was sold off to J Parker, an eminent local QC. 278 00:15:38,780 --> 00:15:40,860 'Today, Rothley Manor is a hotel 279 00:15:40,860 --> 00:15:43,620 'and the perfect place to break my journey.' 280 00:15:47,020 --> 00:15:50,380 I've found my spot in Leicestershire to take my rest. 281 00:15:50,380 --> 00:15:54,380 Richard III lay undisturbed for 528 years. 282 00:15:54,380 --> 00:15:55,620 I hope to wake in the morning. 283 00:16:02,940 --> 00:16:05,980 'I'm up early because I have a special date 284 00:16:05,980 --> 00:16:07,940 'at a very special station. 285 00:16:07,940 --> 00:16:11,420 'You won't find Rothley on the map, or in Bradshaw's. 286 00:16:11,420 --> 00:16:15,180 'This line, which was originally part of the Great Central Railway, 287 00:16:15,180 --> 00:16:18,820 'was built by railway entrepreneur Sir Edward Watkin to provide a more 288 00:16:18,820 --> 00:16:22,660 'direct line from London-Marylebone to Sheffield and Manchester' 289 00:16:22,660 --> 00:16:26,900 'He also had ambitions that his line would connect to France. 290 00:16:26,900 --> 00:16:30,180 'While it didn't survive long enough to make it across the Channel, 291 00:16:30,180 --> 00:16:33,980 'it owes its life today to a group of enthusiasts who saved it.' 292 00:16:35,340 --> 00:16:36,460 Hello, Richard. 293 00:16:36,460 --> 00:16:40,260 Good morning, Michael. Good to see you. And yourself. Sit down. 294 00:16:40,260 --> 00:16:45,620 Now, this railway station, Rothley, is not in my Bradshaw's guide. 295 00:16:45,620 --> 00:16:49,580 Presumably, then, because this line was built later than the 1860s? 296 00:16:49,580 --> 00:16:53,540 A lot later. It only opened in about 1900 297 00:16:53,540 --> 00:16:58,980 and it survived for barely 60 years before British Railways closed it. 298 00:16:58,980 --> 00:17:01,300 How does it come to be reopened again? 299 00:17:01,300 --> 00:17:05,300 Round about 1969, a preservation scheme was developed 300 00:17:05,300 --> 00:17:09,340 by a small group of enthusiasts and, 44 years later, 301 00:17:09,340 --> 00:17:12,420 here we are today with eight miles of double track railway. 302 00:17:12,420 --> 00:17:14,060 Trains can pass each other 303 00:17:14,060 --> 00:17:17,660 rather than having to wait in passing loops in stations. 304 00:17:17,660 --> 00:17:20,460 And you're capable of pretty high speeds as well. 305 00:17:20,460 --> 00:17:24,420 Yes, at times we do testing of steam locos up to 60mph. 306 00:17:24,420 --> 00:17:27,540 That must be very good fun. You must love doing that. 307 00:17:27,540 --> 00:17:29,020 Absolutely. 308 00:17:30,180 --> 00:17:33,740 'Today, thanks to the passion and enthusiasm of Richard 309 00:17:33,740 --> 00:17:36,220 'and the Great Central Railway Heritage Trust, 310 00:17:36,220 --> 00:17:40,580 'there are six working steam locomotives and 17 carriages. 311 00:17:40,580 --> 00:17:43,060 'I've offered to work my passage to Loughborough 312 00:17:43,060 --> 00:17:45,180 'behind the King Edward II.' 313 00:17:45,180 --> 00:17:49,020 Rothley! This is Rothley! 314 00:17:49,020 --> 00:17:53,580 All aboard for Quorn and Woodhouse and Loughborough Central! 315 00:17:53,580 --> 00:17:57,180 'I knew those years of shouting in Parliament would come in handy.' 316 00:17:57,180 --> 00:17:58,620 WHISTLE BLOWS 317 00:18:01,380 --> 00:18:03,260 WHISTLE BLOWS 318 00:18:05,620 --> 00:18:10,220 'This majestic King Class locomotive was built in Swindon in 1930 for 319 00:18:10,220 --> 00:18:12,380 'the Great Western Railway 320 00:18:12,380 --> 00:18:15,980 'and was only withdrawn from service only in 1962.' 321 00:18:15,980 --> 00:18:19,460 Tickets, please. Tickets, please. 322 00:18:19,460 --> 00:18:23,020 Good morning to you, sir. I hope you are enjoying your ride. 323 00:18:23,020 --> 00:18:26,140 We are indeed. We have. We've had a lovely breakfast 324 00:18:26,140 --> 00:18:29,420 and now we get to relax for the rest of the day. 325 00:18:29,420 --> 00:18:32,860 Just check you're... It is today's. Check you're legitimate. 326 00:18:32,860 --> 00:18:36,020 And I am a member. I think we'll put a hole in there anyway. 327 00:18:36,020 --> 00:18:38,780 Yes, you can do that. I'll keep that one. 328 00:18:38,780 --> 00:18:41,740 There we go. I don't think I can put a hole in that one. 329 00:18:41,740 --> 00:18:43,020 THEY LAUGH 330 00:18:43,020 --> 00:18:45,380 'In steam's heyday, a key part of the service 331 00:18:45,380 --> 00:18:48,940 'was providing passengers with hot cooked food. 332 00:18:48,940 --> 00:18:52,820 'Keeping up with tradition, today's menus sound very tempting. 333 00:18:52,820 --> 00:18:55,780 'Sweet capsicum terrine with basil vinaigrette 334 00:18:55,780 --> 00:18:59,380 'followed by pan-fried sea trout, and gateau. 335 00:18:59,380 --> 00:19:03,060 'I have a reservation with resident chef Liam Tinsley.' 336 00:19:03,060 --> 00:19:04,940 This is a vintage kitchen, isn't it? Yes. 337 00:19:04,940 --> 00:19:07,620 What's the most you can produce out of this kitchen? 338 00:19:07,620 --> 00:19:09,940 A seven-course meal on Saturday nights. 339 00:19:09,940 --> 00:19:13,700 A seven-course meal? Yeah. For how many people? 80. 340 00:19:13,700 --> 00:19:15,700 80 people. That's absolutely fantastic. 341 00:19:15,700 --> 00:19:18,180 So how long have you been on the trains? You're a young man. 342 00:19:18,180 --> 00:19:20,180 I've been coming down since I was eight. 343 00:19:20,180 --> 00:19:21,460 I've been cooking since I was 16. 344 00:19:21,460 --> 00:19:23,340 And I've gone through an apprenticeship 345 00:19:23,340 --> 00:19:25,980 and I'm now an NVQ Level II qualified chef. 346 00:19:25,980 --> 00:19:29,100 And you're enjoying it, evidently. Oh, yeah. Fantastic. 347 00:19:29,100 --> 00:19:32,660 I wish I had time to stay. That's OK. It's nice meeting you. 348 00:19:32,660 --> 00:19:34,780 I wish I could have a seven-course meal! 349 00:19:34,780 --> 00:19:36,820 Bye-bye, Liam. Bye. Thank you. Thank you. 350 00:19:39,700 --> 00:19:42,740 'Thanks to people power, this line has been saved 351 00:19:42,740 --> 00:19:45,180 'and transformed into something special. 352 00:19:45,180 --> 00:19:48,620 'In the future, the trust hopes to turn the southern terminus 353 00:19:48,620 --> 00:19:51,460 'into a branch of the National Railway Museum. 354 00:19:51,460 --> 00:19:55,180 'And the northern terminus is my next destination - Loughborough.' 355 00:19:58,940 --> 00:20:00,380 TRAIN WHISTLE BLOWS 356 00:20:02,620 --> 00:20:06,500 There was another sound as evocative of the 19th century 357 00:20:06,500 --> 00:20:08,380 as the locomotive whistle. 358 00:20:08,380 --> 00:20:12,580 From factories and churches, village halls and schools, 359 00:20:12,580 --> 00:20:15,220 you could hear the sound of the bell. 360 00:20:15,220 --> 00:20:19,180 And here at Loughborough is the place where the story can be told. 361 00:20:25,380 --> 00:20:27,820 'It was a Loughborough parish church 362 00:20:27,820 --> 00:20:30,260 'which invited the world's largest bell foundry 363 00:20:30,260 --> 00:20:31,860 'to set up business in the town. 364 00:20:31,860 --> 00:20:36,500 'In 1839, they commissioned John Taylor and Company to cast 365 00:20:36,500 --> 00:20:41,220 'their bells, with one condition - that they make them in Loughborough. 366 00:20:41,220 --> 00:20:44,700 'The company moved and has been here since, sending bells 367 00:20:44,700 --> 00:20:48,940 'all over the country, thanks to the closeness of the railway line.' 368 00:20:48,940 --> 00:20:51,580 'I'm meeting one of the directors, Andrew Higson.' 369 00:20:57,060 --> 00:20:59,500 What an amazing sight. 370 00:20:59,500 --> 00:21:02,940 I feel as if I've walked into a painting, into another century. 371 00:21:02,940 --> 00:21:05,140 An industrial cathedral. 372 00:21:05,140 --> 00:21:07,660 That's very well put. But what goes on here? 373 00:21:07,660 --> 00:21:10,500 These things with holes in them cannot be bells. 374 00:21:10,500 --> 00:21:13,540 No, they're not bells. These are the cases in which we mould the bells. 375 00:21:13,540 --> 00:21:19,380 They've got holes in them so that the loam, which is the moulding material, binds to it. 376 00:21:19,380 --> 00:21:24,140 And each size of bell that we make, we've got a different-sized case for. 377 00:21:24,140 --> 00:21:27,540 This is the moulding process actually in action. 378 00:21:27,540 --> 00:21:33,460 You can see that Bill is slapping some what looks like mud on the inside of this case. 379 00:21:33,460 --> 00:21:36,220 Hello, Bill. What is this gooey substance made of? 380 00:21:37,380 --> 00:21:40,540 Three kinds of sand, goat hair and horse manure. 381 00:21:41,660 --> 00:21:44,380 What? Horse manure. 382 00:21:44,380 --> 00:21:46,620 Horse manure? Yeah. 383 00:21:46,620 --> 00:21:49,900 Goat hair. 384 00:21:49,900 --> 00:21:52,860 These are the vital ingredients, are they? They are. 385 00:21:52,860 --> 00:21:56,580 Stood the test of time? There's nothing better. 386 00:21:56,580 --> 00:22:00,540 Why would a mixture of sand and horse manure be the right lining, 387 00:22:00,540 --> 00:22:02,620 if you are putting in hot, molten metal? 388 00:22:02,620 --> 00:22:06,540 Clay in the sand, and the horse manure has uric acid in it, 389 00:22:06,540 --> 00:22:09,300 and that acts as a plasticiser. 390 00:22:09,300 --> 00:22:13,620 And the horses chew the straw into really short pieces 391 00:22:13,620 --> 00:22:17,540 and they lattice across and it forms a really good bond. 392 00:22:17,540 --> 00:22:20,220 When it's dry, it's as hard as anything you like. 393 00:22:20,220 --> 00:22:23,460 It's like a semi-ceramic. 394 00:22:23,460 --> 00:22:26,900 'Getting the loam's consistency and thickness just right 395 00:22:26,900 --> 00:22:32,700 'takes all of Bill's 27 years' experience of making bells of every size and type. 396 00:22:33,780 --> 00:22:36,820 'Now it's my turn to get my hands dirty.' 397 00:22:36,820 --> 00:22:40,100 I love the smell of uric acid in the morning! 398 00:22:40,100 --> 00:22:42,780 Apply it there, and work it towards me. 399 00:22:42,780 --> 00:22:44,900 So slap it down hard. 400 00:22:44,900 --> 00:22:48,140 'The bell I'm helping to make is for ringing in peal 401 00:22:48,140 --> 00:22:50,060 'and, at over three feet wide, 402 00:22:50,060 --> 00:22:52,060 'it's about average for this foundry. 403 00:22:52,060 --> 00:22:55,260 'When it's rung, it sounds the note of A flat. 404 00:22:55,260 --> 00:22:58,700 'At just under half a tonne, this mighty ringer is destined 405 00:22:58,700 --> 00:23:01,220 'for a church in Guildford.' 406 00:23:01,220 --> 00:23:02,900 Now we turn the strickle. 407 00:23:02,900 --> 00:23:08,740 Your what? Strickle. This is what this implement's called. Right. 408 00:23:08,740 --> 00:23:13,420 Oh, yes. Look at that lovely shape of bell you're creating with your strickle, 409 00:23:13,420 --> 00:23:15,460 these beautiful lines, 410 00:23:15,460 --> 00:23:19,260 and that's all going to be reflected in the bell you are going to cast. 411 00:23:19,260 --> 00:23:21,900 'Once made, the mould is left for a week, 412 00:23:21,900 --> 00:23:25,060 'then fired for another week in a gas drying stove. 413 00:23:25,060 --> 00:23:26,980 'Then it's ready for the cast. 414 00:23:26,980 --> 00:23:30,220 'Copper and tin are used to smelt the bell in a process 415 00:23:30,220 --> 00:23:32,860 'that hasn't changed in centuries.' 416 00:23:32,860 --> 00:23:36,980 This is obviously the most fantastic temperature. Whoa! Look at that! 417 00:23:38,820 --> 00:23:42,420 To say I'm out of my comfort zone is to put it mildly. 418 00:23:42,420 --> 00:23:46,820 There is molten metal leaping around in the room. 419 00:23:46,820 --> 00:23:49,100 What does this weigh, Roger? 420 00:23:49,100 --> 00:23:50,700 Around 50 kilos there. 421 00:23:50,700 --> 00:23:52,700 OK. Is there a technique to lifting it? 422 00:23:52,700 --> 00:23:54,580 Just keep it level. OK. 423 00:23:54,580 --> 00:23:57,820 'I'm definitely on the fast track for apprentices. 424 00:23:57,820 --> 00:24:01,740 'Was pouring 50 kilos of molten metal in my contract?' 425 00:24:01,740 --> 00:24:03,820 Superb. 426 00:24:03,820 --> 00:24:06,180 Wow, look at that. 427 00:24:06,180 --> 00:24:09,420 I never thought I'd stand this close to molten metal. OK. 428 00:24:11,820 --> 00:24:14,140 The heat coming off it is absolutely fantastic. 429 00:24:14,140 --> 00:24:17,420 I can feel it through my visor. I can feel it under my visor. 430 00:24:17,420 --> 00:24:23,140 Take it easy, Roger. Thank you. Are you ready now? OK. There it is. 431 00:24:23,140 --> 00:24:26,060 Bubbling down into the moulds. 432 00:24:26,060 --> 00:24:31,060 Back in the ring? Take them down. Down? 433 00:24:31,060 --> 00:24:34,260 That's fine. Oh, my God. 434 00:24:34,260 --> 00:24:37,500 When you take the visor off, you really do feel the heat. 435 00:24:37,500 --> 00:24:41,980 Now coming from all these moulds as well as from the crucible, the heating pot. 436 00:24:41,980 --> 00:24:43,660 What's actually in there, Roger? 437 00:24:43,660 --> 00:24:45,020 It's all hand bells. 438 00:24:45,020 --> 00:24:47,340 Well, ding-a-ling-a-ling. ROGER LAUGHS 439 00:24:49,020 --> 00:24:51,020 It's uplifting to view a craft 440 00:24:51,020 --> 00:24:53,660 that has passed down the generations. 441 00:24:53,660 --> 00:24:57,140 But the foundry also has a sad tale to tell. 442 00:24:57,140 --> 00:24:58,540 During the First World War, 443 00:24:58,540 --> 00:25:02,460 three of John William Taylor's sons were killed in action. 444 00:25:02,460 --> 00:25:04,260 In celebration of their lives 445 00:25:04,260 --> 00:25:07,300 and those of other young men who died in the Great War, 446 00:25:07,300 --> 00:25:10,540 Taylor and local townspeople created a memorial. 447 00:25:11,780 --> 00:25:14,220 BELLS RING TUNEFULLY 448 00:25:15,820 --> 00:25:18,940 This memorial bell tower in Loughborough's Queens' Park 449 00:25:18,940 --> 00:25:22,340 houses a musical instrument called a carillon. 450 00:25:22,340 --> 00:25:25,900 It's like an organ, with bells instead of pipes. 451 00:25:25,900 --> 00:25:30,060 I'm going right to the top to meet Caroline Sharpe, the carillonneur. 452 00:25:31,700 --> 00:25:34,300 BELLS RING OUT A TUNE 453 00:25:50,980 --> 00:25:52,580 Hello. Come and join me. 454 00:25:53,620 --> 00:25:56,860 Amazing instrument. What were you playing, by the way? 455 00:25:56,860 --> 00:26:01,300 I was playing a piece by Sir Edward Elgar called Memorial Chimes. 456 00:26:01,300 --> 00:26:02,980 It's a piece of music that was written 457 00:26:02,980 --> 00:26:05,020 specifically for this carillon 458 00:26:05,020 --> 00:26:08,740 to be played in the opening ceremony when it opened in 1923. 459 00:26:08,740 --> 00:26:10,260 Are there many in Britain? 460 00:26:10,260 --> 00:26:13,140 There's 15 carillons in the UK. 461 00:26:13,140 --> 00:26:15,980 This one's particularly unique, because it is the only one 462 00:26:15,980 --> 00:26:19,220 that was built specifically to house the bells and house the carillon 463 00:26:19,220 --> 00:26:21,740 so you could say the whole building is the instrument. 464 00:26:23,300 --> 00:26:26,140 Bells are rung by forcing a clapper down on to the bell 465 00:26:26,140 --> 00:26:28,260 from levers at a keyboard, or clavier, 466 00:26:28,260 --> 00:26:32,700 and I couldn't leave Loughborough or indeed Taylor's without trying the bells, 467 00:26:32,700 --> 00:26:34,660 even if it's only a nursery rhyme. 468 00:26:36,500 --> 00:26:38,940 One, two, three, four. 469 00:26:40,820 --> 00:26:44,420 THEY PLAY "LONDON BRIDGE IS FALLING DOWN" 470 00:26:59,020 --> 00:27:02,940 Brilliant. What fun! You can make such a lot of noise! 471 00:27:02,940 --> 00:27:05,060 You can. You feel very powerful up here. 472 00:27:05,060 --> 00:27:07,780 Very powerful. I'm going to go and listen to it from outside. 473 00:27:07,780 --> 00:27:09,820 Thank you so much, Caroline. 474 00:27:14,060 --> 00:27:17,420 BELLS RING TUNEFULLY 475 00:27:19,580 --> 00:27:21,420 In Hollywood, 476 00:27:21,420 --> 00:27:25,980 the craftsmen of a small Leicester company are winning Oscars. 477 00:27:25,980 --> 00:27:31,540 I was moved to stand by the car park grave of King Richard III 478 00:27:31,540 --> 00:27:35,220 and to view his life through a Victorian lens. 479 00:27:35,220 --> 00:27:39,060 One thing's for certain - if the Great Central Railway could be 480 00:27:39,060 --> 00:27:43,300 disinterred, all over England, it would set the bells ringing. 481 00:27:51,500 --> 00:27:55,700 On the next leg of my journey, I sees the grand designs of a Victorian Duke. 482 00:27:55,700 --> 00:27:57,740 Derek, this building is huge. 483 00:27:57,740 --> 00:28:01,260 When it was built, it was the largest in Europe, 484 00:28:01,260 --> 00:28:04,420 with the exception of the manege next to the Kremlin in Moscow. 485 00:28:05,700 --> 00:28:09,740 I discover a treasure trove of locomotive history. 486 00:28:09,740 --> 00:28:11,500 This I do not believe. 487 00:28:11,500 --> 00:28:16,460 Every square inch of wall is filled with railway memorabilia. 488 00:28:17,780 --> 00:28:20,900 And I break a leg on the stage in Leeds. 489 00:28:20,900 --> 00:28:23,940 Welcome to this Valhalla 490 00:28:23,940 --> 00:28:27,780 of Victorian Variety. Bravo.