1 00:00:05,660 --> 00:00:10,500 In 1840, one man transformed travel in Britain. 2 00:00:10,500 --> 00:00:12,180 His name was George Bradshaw, 3 00:00:12,180 --> 00:00:15,220 and his railway guides inspired the Victorians 4 00:00:15,220 --> 00:00:16,820 to take to the tracks. 5 00:00:17,780 --> 00:00:21,900 Stop by stop, he told them where to go, what to see, 6 00:00:21,900 --> 00:00:23,500 and where to stay. 7 00:00:23,500 --> 00:00:25,580 And now, 170 years later, 8 00:00:25,580 --> 00:00:28,900 I'm aboard for a series of rail adventures 9 00:00:28,900 --> 00:00:30,900 across the United Kingdom 10 00:00:30,900 --> 00:00:33,980 to see what of Bradshaw's Britain remains. 11 00:00:51,140 --> 00:00:54,220 All this week, I've been travelling away from the capital 12 00:00:54,220 --> 00:00:55,820 and its urban bustle, 13 00:00:55,820 --> 00:01:00,500 heading north on Robert Stephenson's London to Birmingham line. 14 00:01:00,500 --> 00:01:02,740 I'll explore the Victorian manufacturing hub 15 00:01:02,740 --> 00:01:04,500 of the East Midlands, 16 00:01:04,500 --> 00:01:07,620 before terminating my journey in the heart of Yorkshire. 17 00:01:07,620 --> 00:01:10,860 On this final leg, I travel from Nottingham, 18 00:01:10,860 --> 00:01:14,740 once the lace-making capital of the country, and then on to Mansfield. 19 00:01:14,740 --> 00:01:17,580 I visit Worksop, known as the Gateway to the Dukeries, 20 00:01:17,580 --> 00:01:19,220 and on to Doncaster, 21 00:01:19,220 --> 00:01:22,020 before exploring the rich heritage of Leeds. 22 00:01:25,620 --> 00:01:28,820 I'm now concluding my journey towards Leeds. 23 00:01:28,820 --> 00:01:32,020 From the end of the 18th century, the North of England 24 00:01:32,020 --> 00:01:36,860 became crowded with the chimneys of the so-called Dark Satanic Mills. 25 00:01:36,860 --> 00:01:41,140 But this period also coincided with a revival in the arts, 26 00:01:41,140 --> 00:01:42,980 as people tried to recall, 27 00:01:42,980 --> 00:01:45,660 amongst the grime of industrialisation, 28 00:01:45,660 --> 00:01:50,340 the natural beauties of their green and pleasant land. 29 00:01:50,340 --> 00:01:55,540 Today on my journey I see the grand designs of a Victorian duke. 30 00:01:55,540 --> 00:01:57,660 This building is huge. 31 00:01:57,660 --> 00:02:00,700 When it was built, it was the largest in Europe, 32 00:02:00,700 --> 00:02:04,140 with the exception of the manege next the Kremlin in Moscow. 33 00:02:05,340 --> 00:02:09,260 'I discover a treasure trove of locomotive history.' 34 00:02:09,260 --> 00:02:12,060 This, I do not believe. 35 00:02:12,060 --> 00:02:17,300 Every square inch of wall is filled with railway memorabilia. 36 00:02:17,300 --> 00:02:20,700 'And I break a leg on the stage in Leeds.' 37 00:02:20,700 --> 00:02:23,700 Welcome to this Valhalla 38 00:02:23,700 --> 00:02:27,100 of Victorian variety. 39 00:02:27,100 --> 00:02:28,660 Bravo! 40 00:02:36,020 --> 00:02:39,020 Bradshaw's tells me that a notable native of Nottingham - 41 00:02:39,020 --> 00:02:41,660 my next stop - was Henry Kirke White. 42 00:02:41,660 --> 00:02:44,900 "Born in 1785, a butcher's son. 43 00:02:44,900 --> 00:02:49,180 "He was chosen Professor Of Literature in the Literary Society 44 00:02:49,180 --> 00:02:53,900 "by acclamation when only 15 years old." 45 00:02:53,900 --> 00:02:57,100 I need to discover the rhyme and reason of that. 46 00:03:05,100 --> 00:03:08,700 Nottingham in the 1780s was a city greatly divided 47 00:03:08,700 --> 00:03:11,340 between the very wealthy and the extremely poor. 48 00:03:13,740 --> 00:03:16,900 It was Kirke White's Nottingham working-class background 49 00:03:16,900 --> 00:03:18,220 that marked him out. 50 00:03:19,500 --> 00:03:24,140 And as Bradshaw says so much about him, I want to know more. 51 00:03:24,140 --> 00:03:27,180 I'm meeting Lynda Pratt, from Nottingham University, 52 00:03:27,180 --> 00:03:28,940 at Bromley House Library, 53 00:03:28,940 --> 00:03:31,220 where there's a large collection of his work. 54 00:03:33,060 --> 00:03:35,460 Lynda, hello. Michael, nice to meet you. 55 00:03:35,460 --> 00:03:37,740 Evidently, he was a child prodigy. 56 00:03:37,740 --> 00:03:39,980 "He was elected Professor Of Literature 57 00:03:39,980 --> 00:03:43,380 "of the Literary Society by acclamation at the age of 15." 58 00:03:43,380 --> 00:03:44,700 This is just extraordinary. 59 00:03:44,700 --> 00:03:48,300 He does seem to have been immensely bright and ambitious. 60 00:03:48,300 --> 00:03:49,940 Yeah, he is a working-class boy. 61 00:03:49,940 --> 00:03:52,580 He works his way up into the local textile industry, 62 00:03:52,580 --> 00:03:55,020 from there, into a trainee lawyer. 63 00:03:55,020 --> 00:03:57,740 The onset of deafness actually prevented him 64 00:03:57,740 --> 00:03:59,500 pursuing a legal career. 65 00:03:59,500 --> 00:04:02,300 Eventually sent to Cambridge, did extremely well, 66 00:04:02,300 --> 00:04:04,980 won a university prize in his first year 67 00:04:04,980 --> 00:04:07,980 and, unfortunately, he works himself to death. 68 00:04:07,980 --> 00:04:10,420 So, this was a very, very short life. 69 00:04:10,420 --> 00:04:12,060 He dies at the age of 21. 70 00:04:13,300 --> 00:04:16,580 The strain of continuous study proved fatal. 71 00:04:16,580 --> 00:04:20,340 Dying so young fuelled the Victorians' interest in him, 72 00:04:20,340 --> 00:04:24,660 and his posthumous work The Remains became a bestseller. 73 00:04:24,660 --> 00:04:27,340 It strikes a chord, because it tells a great story - 74 00:04:27,340 --> 00:04:30,500 a story about an ambitious lad who dies young. 75 00:04:30,500 --> 00:04:33,420 He's evidently a favourite son of Nottingham. 76 00:04:33,420 --> 00:04:36,100 How did he and the city relate to each other? 77 00:04:36,100 --> 00:04:41,060 Ambivalently. He celebrates a local beauty spot, Clifton Grove. 78 00:04:41,060 --> 00:04:44,020 The poem he writes about this beauty spot 79 00:04:44,020 --> 00:04:46,540 is very critical of what he can see, 80 00:04:46,540 --> 00:04:50,460 which is manufacturing industrialising Nottingham. 81 00:04:50,460 --> 00:04:53,220 So offended were certain members of the local population, 82 00:04:53,220 --> 00:04:55,260 that when one of his contemporaries 83 00:04:55,260 --> 00:04:57,820 came to write a history of Nottingham in 1815, 84 00:04:57,820 --> 00:05:00,380 it was suggested that White should have been horsewhipped 85 00:05:00,380 --> 00:05:03,460 through the streets for his portrayal of the city. 86 00:05:03,460 --> 00:05:06,300 Bradshaw's leads me to believe that White was more than a poet. 87 00:05:06,300 --> 00:05:08,300 Was White a social commentator? 88 00:05:08,300 --> 00:05:09,740 Yes, there's evidence of this. 89 00:05:09,740 --> 00:05:11,020 There's a letter he wrote 90 00:05:11,020 --> 00:05:13,620 complaining about the conditions that young girls 91 00:05:13,620 --> 00:05:15,460 who worked in the lace making industry. 92 00:05:15,460 --> 00:05:18,940 He sort of says if you keep young girls hard-working and poor, 93 00:05:18,940 --> 00:05:21,340 they have no money. So in order to go out and earn more 94 00:05:21,340 --> 00:05:24,380 and improve their lot in life, they'll turn to prostitution. 95 00:05:24,380 --> 00:05:27,620 Social campaigning seems to have been in his mind very much. 96 00:05:30,460 --> 00:05:33,540 Today, he's an important reminder of the vitality 97 00:05:33,540 --> 00:05:37,380 of English regional literary culture during the nineteenth century. 98 00:05:43,660 --> 00:05:46,100 Discovering the unexpected in Nottingham 99 00:05:46,100 --> 00:05:48,540 could keep me occupied for many more hours, 100 00:05:48,540 --> 00:05:50,380 but the tracks are calling, 101 00:05:50,380 --> 00:05:53,220 and now I'm heading north to my next destination. 102 00:06:00,180 --> 00:06:04,020 "The picturesque tracts of woodland of Sherwood Forest," 103 00:06:04,020 --> 00:06:08,260 says Bradshaw's, "still bring to mind the unsettled times 104 00:06:08,260 --> 00:06:11,180 "when Hugh Little John and Friar Tuck 105 00:06:11,180 --> 00:06:14,340 "hunted the king's venison without licence." 106 00:06:14,340 --> 00:06:16,260 Yes, I'm on the Robin Hood line. 107 00:06:22,140 --> 00:06:24,300 Mansfield and the countryside around 108 00:06:24,300 --> 00:06:28,100 may have once been home to landed gentry and outlaws. 109 00:06:28,100 --> 00:06:31,820 But by Bradshaw's day, numerous coalfields supplied industry, 110 00:06:31,820 --> 00:06:34,300 making use of a comprehensive rail network 111 00:06:34,300 --> 00:06:36,500 that shifted workers and materials. 112 00:06:38,500 --> 00:06:41,340 In the 1960s, Dr Richard Beeching, 113 00:06:41,340 --> 00:06:43,260 chairman of British Railways, 114 00:06:43,260 --> 00:06:45,820 axed many lines to slash losses. 115 00:06:47,780 --> 00:06:50,500 I'm meeting Tony Egginton, the town's mayor, 116 00:06:50,500 --> 00:06:52,540 to find out what happened. 117 00:06:55,180 --> 00:06:58,140 So, for some time, this Robin Hood line was closed. 118 00:06:58,140 --> 00:07:00,260 Yes, for just over 30 years. 119 00:07:00,260 --> 00:07:04,180 Closed in '64, as a result of the Beeching Report, 120 00:07:04,180 --> 00:07:08,140 and then reopened in '95. So Mansfield had no railway station? 121 00:07:08,140 --> 00:07:12,020 No station at all. We were cut off from the rail links. 122 00:07:12,020 --> 00:07:15,220 And who was it who arranged to have it reopened? 123 00:07:15,220 --> 00:07:18,740 Well, it was A group of businesspeople called Mansfield 2010 124 00:07:18,740 --> 00:07:19,940 who worked together 125 00:07:19,940 --> 00:07:23,380 with the county council and the district council at the time, 126 00:07:23,380 --> 00:07:25,220 lobbying central government 127 00:07:25,220 --> 00:07:28,060 to try and turn over the Beeching recommendation. 128 00:07:28,060 --> 00:07:30,100 Lo and behold, they won the fight. 129 00:07:30,100 --> 00:07:33,780 It shows the resilience of the people of Mansfield 130 00:07:33,780 --> 00:07:35,940 because, having lost their station, 131 00:07:35,940 --> 00:07:39,540 by the 1980s, they were also losing their industrial heritage. 132 00:07:39,540 --> 00:07:41,500 The coal mines were closing, 133 00:07:41,500 --> 00:07:44,580 the brewery and the shoe factories were in decline. 134 00:07:44,580 --> 00:07:47,580 Reopening their station was a massive achievement. 135 00:07:47,580 --> 00:07:50,020 What would you say to those people around the country 136 00:07:50,020 --> 00:07:52,660 who have cherished lines that they'd like to reopen? 137 00:07:52,660 --> 00:07:54,220 Just keep at it. You must work hard. 138 00:07:54,220 --> 00:07:56,020 You need everybody to get behind you 139 00:07:56,020 --> 00:07:59,620 and, of course, common sense ultimately prevails. 140 00:07:59,620 --> 00:08:03,220 And you have brought back to life a wonderful Victorian station. 141 00:08:06,060 --> 00:08:09,340 Mansfield Station reopened in 1995 142 00:08:09,340 --> 00:08:12,580 and thanks to an investment of £36 million, 143 00:08:12,580 --> 00:08:16,020 the whole Robin Hood line, from Worksop to Nottingham, 144 00:08:16,020 --> 00:08:19,780 was back in action by 1998, reversing the Beeching closure. 145 00:08:21,420 --> 00:08:24,140 Every year, over a million people use the line 146 00:08:24,140 --> 00:08:26,580 and I'm going to take advantage of it 147 00:08:26,580 --> 00:08:28,820 as I travel north again to its terminus. 148 00:08:30,380 --> 00:08:34,500 Bradshaw's tells me that Worksop is situated in the Dukery 149 00:08:34,500 --> 00:08:37,820 which comprises four ducal seats. 150 00:08:37,820 --> 00:08:41,340 Welbeck Abbey belongs to the Duke of Portland 151 00:08:41,340 --> 00:08:45,940 and, when I go there, Bradshaw's advises me to look out 152 00:08:45,940 --> 00:08:49,660 for the riding house and stable, 130ft long. 153 00:08:49,660 --> 00:08:52,180 That's surely a misprint for yards 154 00:08:52,180 --> 00:08:55,220 because these grand estates, with their vast buildings, 155 00:08:55,220 --> 00:08:58,660 were a feature of the Victorian landscape. 156 00:08:58,660 --> 00:09:01,500 Amongst the ducal properties in Sherwood Forest, 157 00:09:01,500 --> 00:09:04,580 Welbeck Abbey has one of the richest histories. 158 00:09:04,580 --> 00:09:05,860 Still privately owned 159 00:09:05,860 --> 00:09:08,420 by the descendants of the Duke of Portland, 160 00:09:08,420 --> 00:09:11,300 the abbey is in a sculpted park. 161 00:09:11,300 --> 00:09:13,500 The most eccentric episode of its history 162 00:09:13,500 --> 00:09:17,380 came in the mid-19th century, when it was owned by the fifth duke. 163 00:09:17,380 --> 00:09:19,580 I'm meeting curator Derek Adlam 164 00:09:19,580 --> 00:09:24,060 to discover more about this fascinating Victorian aristocrat. 165 00:09:24,060 --> 00:09:27,500 Derek, this building is handsome and huge. 166 00:09:27,500 --> 00:09:32,500 I take it that this is the riding house and stables 167 00:09:32,500 --> 00:09:34,980 referred to in my Bradshaw's. Absolutely right. 168 00:09:34,980 --> 00:09:38,300 When it was built, it was the largest in Europe, 169 00:09:38,300 --> 00:09:42,060 with the exception of the manege next to the Kremlin in Moscow. 170 00:09:42,060 --> 00:09:45,220 It looks as if it's a traditional tiled building, 171 00:09:45,220 --> 00:09:48,980 but those tiles conceal a glass and iron vault, 172 00:09:48,980 --> 00:09:51,940 like a London railway station. 173 00:09:51,940 --> 00:09:55,740 So, who was responsible for such magnificence on the estate? 174 00:09:55,740 --> 00:09:58,940 Well, this is the work of the Fifth Duke of Portland 175 00:09:58,940 --> 00:10:03,060 and he inherited the estate from his father in 1854, 176 00:10:03,060 --> 00:10:05,700 came to live here round about 1860 177 00:10:05,700 --> 00:10:08,220 and began the work you see all around. 178 00:10:08,220 --> 00:10:11,980 There was nothing here when he started work. 179 00:10:11,980 --> 00:10:13,820 It must have taken a very long time. 180 00:10:13,820 --> 00:10:18,300 No, 20 years. In fact, even a little less. He died in 1879 181 00:10:18,300 --> 00:10:20,300 and work then came to a stop 182 00:10:20,300 --> 00:10:22,940 because it was virtually complete. 183 00:10:25,420 --> 00:10:28,420 The family's vast wealth came from its agricultural assets, 184 00:10:28,420 --> 00:10:31,500 allowing the duke to think on a grand scale. 185 00:10:31,500 --> 00:10:33,740 To all the opulent furnishings, 186 00:10:33,740 --> 00:10:36,260 he added a subterranean tropical house 187 00:10:36,260 --> 00:10:38,420 and 22 acres of kitchen garden, 188 00:10:38,420 --> 00:10:41,740 growing exotic fruit and vegetables to feed the estate. 189 00:10:43,500 --> 00:10:46,940 And what sort of a man was this fifth duke? 190 00:10:46,940 --> 00:10:50,620 Well, apparently, he was a rather indolent, 191 00:10:50,620 --> 00:10:53,180 not very interesting or interested person. 192 00:10:53,180 --> 00:10:55,060 But he had no occupation. 193 00:10:55,060 --> 00:10:59,340 It was as if a spring was released when his father died 194 00:10:59,340 --> 00:11:03,340 and moved here, began work and he turned out to be 195 00:11:03,340 --> 00:11:05,820 the most astonishing organiser. 196 00:11:05,820 --> 00:11:10,100 He was employing up to 1,000 people at a time. 197 00:11:10,100 --> 00:11:12,820 A sociable fellow? No, absolutely not. 198 00:11:12,820 --> 00:11:16,580 When he grew older, he became quite a recluse, 199 00:11:16,580 --> 00:11:19,340 but a very unusual kind of recluse 200 00:11:19,340 --> 00:11:23,460 in that he refused to see his social peers and equals, 201 00:11:23,460 --> 00:11:25,980 but got on very well with his workmen 202 00:11:25,980 --> 00:11:28,780 and was out and about on the estate every day. 203 00:11:28,780 --> 00:11:31,220 I rather wish I had met him. 204 00:11:31,220 --> 00:11:34,220 I do too. 205 00:11:34,220 --> 00:11:38,340 In the 1850s, a duke was expected to have stables to match his status 206 00:11:38,340 --> 00:11:41,540 and this duke was a keen horseman. 207 00:11:41,540 --> 00:11:44,660 No-one really knows why he was so reclusive, 208 00:11:44,660 --> 00:11:47,260 but the psoriasis from which he reputedly suffered 209 00:11:47,260 --> 00:11:49,060 might have been a factor 210 00:11:49,060 --> 00:11:52,580 and help to explain why there are no photos of him 211 00:11:52,580 --> 00:11:55,580 and why he took to the depths to avoid being seen. 212 00:11:58,300 --> 00:12:02,100 Well, that is an unexpected sight. A tunnel. 213 00:12:02,100 --> 00:12:05,660 The 5th Duke was the great tunneller, the Burrowing Duke. 214 00:12:05,660 --> 00:12:07,900 On the estate, he built 2.5 miles 215 00:12:07,900 --> 00:12:10,020 of these underground drives. 216 00:12:10,020 --> 00:12:12,900 This is one of the larger ones and it's wide enough 217 00:12:12,900 --> 00:12:16,020 for two horse-drawn carriages to pass side-by-side. 218 00:12:16,020 --> 00:12:19,980 So, what use did he make of this extensive tunnel network? 219 00:12:19,980 --> 00:12:25,260 Well, it meant that he could move around on the estate unseen. 220 00:12:25,260 --> 00:12:29,380 He would go underground while all the life of the estate went on above him. 221 00:12:29,380 --> 00:12:32,580 But I think it's more likely that it's the other way round. 222 00:12:32,580 --> 00:12:34,460 Did he make use of railways? 223 00:12:34,460 --> 00:12:36,820 Yes, some of the tunnels have railways. 224 00:12:36,820 --> 00:12:40,900 And did our reclusive duke have much use for public railways? 225 00:12:40,900 --> 00:12:44,740 Yes, he would have made use of them to go to London, in particular. 226 00:12:44,740 --> 00:12:49,020 His carriage would go with him in it, with the curtains drawn, 227 00:12:49,020 --> 00:12:50,220 to Worksop Station. 228 00:12:50,220 --> 00:12:54,300 His carriage would then be placed on a kind of flatbed truck, 229 00:12:54,300 --> 00:12:55,940 strapped into position, 230 00:12:55,940 --> 00:12:58,380 and he would then go in his own carriage 231 00:12:58,380 --> 00:13:00,460 down to London on the railway. 232 00:13:00,460 --> 00:13:03,140 But he was a great enthusiast for the railway 233 00:13:03,140 --> 00:13:04,900 and at the time of his death 234 00:13:04,900 --> 00:13:08,900 he was planning for a railway to come all the way onto the estate, 235 00:13:08,900 --> 00:13:11,020 mainly for moving goods around. 236 00:13:11,020 --> 00:13:14,820 The more I hear of this duke, the more fascinating he becomes. 237 00:13:14,820 --> 00:13:16,460 Yes, absolutely right. 238 00:13:18,500 --> 00:13:21,740 For all his resourcefulness, the duke never married. 239 00:13:21,740 --> 00:13:26,580 When he died, his cherished estate passed to his cousin. 240 00:13:26,580 --> 00:13:28,980 And although the railway was never built, 241 00:13:28,980 --> 00:13:32,100 I think Bradshaw would have approved of him. 242 00:13:32,100 --> 00:13:34,780 As for me, after travelling a good few miles, 243 00:13:34,780 --> 00:13:37,540 I'm more than happy to break my journey here. 244 00:13:46,860 --> 00:13:50,020 I'm up early to catch the train north from Worksop 245 00:13:50,020 --> 00:13:52,620 on a journey that should take me about an hour. 246 00:13:56,300 --> 00:14:00,420 Doncaster. Bradshaw's tells me that it was the Roman Danam 247 00:14:00,420 --> 00:14:02,340 and the Saxon Donacastre, 248 00:14:02,340 --> 00:14:05,540 in the West Riding of Yorkshire on the River Don 249 00:14:05,540 --> 00:14:07,460 and the North Midland Railway. 250 00:14:07,460 --> 00:14:10,660 And indeed, the words Doncaster and railway 251 00:14:10,660 --> 00:14:13,300 go together like love and marriage, 252 00:14:13,300 --> 00:14:16,380 because its people produced locomotives 253 00:14:16,380 --> 00:14:19,140 that were as fast as they were elegant, 254 00:14:19,140 --> 00:14:22,540 classics of British design at its zenith. 255 00:14:29,780 --> 00:14:32,860 ANNOUNCER: 'We are now arriving into Doncaster. 256 00:14:32,860 --> 00:14:35,860 'Please change here for Leeds, York, Newcastle...' 257 00:14:37,140 --> 00:14:39,740 Today, Doncaster is a city of regeneration, 258 00:14:39,740 --> 00:14:43,340 following the demise of its coal mining and heavy industries. 259 00:14:44,260 --> 00:14:47,460 But in the late 19th century, it was railway city, 260 00:14:47,460 --> 00:14:49,500 employing thousands of people 261 00:14:49,500 --> 00:14:52,460 building and making everything to do with trains. 262 00:14:53,940 --> 00:14:56,100 If all lines pointed to London, 263 00:14:56,100 --> 00:15:00,140 all things rail came out of "Donny", as the locals call it. 264 00:15:01,700 --> 00:15:04,460 Doncaster's Nigel Gresley is known today 265 00:15:04,460 --> 00:15:07,660 as one of the best locomotive designers of the 20th century. 266 00:15:15,060 --> 00:15:16,740 Following in the footsteps 267 00:15:16,740 --> 00:15:19,300 of two of the most eminent railway engineers, 268 00:15:19,300 --> 00:15:21,380 Patrick Stirling and Henry Ivatt, 269 00:15:21,380 --> 00:15:23,820 famous for building locomotive race horses, 270 00:15:23,820 --> 00:15:25,900 Gresley pushed the boundaries further. 271 00:15:27,860 --> 00:15:30,340 Just alongside Gresley's old office, 272 00:15:30,340 --> 00:15:34,140 I'm meeting railway historian Graham Boyes. 273 00:15:34,140 --> 00:15:38,220 Which are the locomotives that we most remember him for? 274 00:15:38,220 --> 00:15:41,860 Well, I think there are two - the Flying Scotsman and Mallard. 275 00:15:41,860 --> 00:15:43,500 Tell me about the Flying Scotsman 276 00:15:43,500 --> 00:15:46,340 It was much bigger than anything that had been built here before. 277 00:15:46,340 --> 00:15:49,780 It was the first of these Pacific 462 locomotives. 278 00:15:49,780 --> 00:15:52,060 It was in a lovely apple-green colour, 279 00:15:52,060 --> 00:15:55,060 which was the Great Northern Railways' livery 280 00:15:55,060 --> 00:15:56,500 for express locomotives. 281 00:15:56,500 --> 00:15:59,140 He soon showed it could go faster than anything else 282 00:15:59,140 --> 00:16:00,980 that had been on this line before, 283 00:16:00,980 --> 00:16:04,700 certainly speeds of over 100mph. 284 00:16:04,700 --> 00:16:06,860 What's Mallard's place in history? 285 00:16:06,860 --> 00:16:08,740 Well, Mallard, it's a classic. 286 00:16:08,740 --> 00:16:14,020 It's streamlined, of course, which helped it gain maximum speed 287 00:16:14,020 --> 00:16:17,380 and, indeed, it holds the world speed record 288 00:16:17,380 --> 00:16:20,340 at 126mph for a steam locomotive. 289 00:16:20,340 --> 00:16:23,340 Given the extraordinary series of chief engineers 290 00:16:23,340 --> 00:16:25,220 that there were at Doncaster, 291 00:16:25,220 --> 00:16:27,380 the enduring fame of Sir Nigel Gresley, 292 00:16:27,380 --> 00:16:29,820 the fame of the Flying Scotsman and the Mallard, 293 00:16:29,820 --> 00:16:31,820 is it not strange that most people 294 00:16:31,820 --> 00:16:35,500 might associate York more than Doncaster with the railways? 295 00:16:35,500 --> 00:16:37,180 I don't think so, really. 296 00:16:37,180 --> 00:16:40,580 York has become associated with the locomotives 297 00:16:40,580 --> 00:16:42,820 since the National Rail Museum opened, 298 00:16:42,820 --> 00:16:45,620 but Doncaster was always the more important place, 299 00:16:45,620 --> 00:16:48,220 throughout railway history, 300 00:16:48,220 --> 00:16:54,340 as one of THE locomotive design and building places in the world. 301 00:16:54,340 --> 00:16:57,860 They don't design locomotives in Doncaster any more, 302 00:16:57,860 --> 00:17:01,500 but its signalling centre is one of the largest on the UK network 303 00:17:01,500 --> 00:17:03,580 and it has one railway workshop 304 00:17:03,580 --> 00:17:06,780 overhauling and repairing rolling stock. 305 00:17:06,780 --> 00:17:10,900 Graham wants to show me something of Doncaster's illustrious history 306 00:17:10,900 --> 00:17:15,180 in what I can only describe as an Aladdin's cave of locomotives. 307 00:17:17,740 --> 00:17:20,940 This, I do NOT believe! 308 00:17:20,940 --> 00:17:26,020 Every square inch of wall is filled with... 309 00:17:26,020 --> 00:17:31,180 railway memorabilia. Graham, this is absolutely astonishing. 310 00:17:31,180 --> 00:17:33,260 What is the origin of all of this? 311 00:17:33,260 --> 00:17:36,620 It was a collection of the Doncaster Grammar School Railway Society. 312 00:17:36,620 --> 00:17:39,020 Of the 600 boys in the school, 313 00:17:39,020 --> 00:17:42,140 about 100 were members of the society. 314 00:17:42,140 --> 00:17:45,100 Many of their fathers would work on the railways 315 00:17:45,100 --> 00:17:49,140 and some of them themselves, like me, went on to work for the railways. 316 00:17:49,140 --> 00:17:51,660 I came to the school in 1949, 317 00:17:51,660 --> 00:17:53,020 11 years old, 318 00:17:53,020 --> 00:17:58,820 and that was the year in which the first of these objects arrived. 319 00:17:58,820 --> 00:18:01,620 So, here we've got a locomotive plate. "Doncaster." 320 00:18:01,620 --> 00:18:06,660 That's the same class as Flying Scotsman. Just amazing. 321 00:18:08,980 --> 00:18:12,620 Then here we have two more locomotive nameplates 322 00:18:12,620 --> 00:18:14,460 that arrived while I was at the school 323 00:18:14,460 --> 00:18:17,300 and they're two of the three locomotives that were in 324 00:18:17,300 --> 00:18:20,980 the Harrow and Wealdstone disaster of 1952. 325 00:18:20,980 --> 00:18:23,700 They were so badly damaged, they were scraped. 326 00:18:23,700 --> 00:18:27,060 That's really very moving, isn't it? When you think about the wreckage 327 00:18:27,060 --> 00:18:30,460 and the number of people who lost their lives that day... Yes. 328 00:18:30,460 --> 00:18:34,260 ..and here are plates of two of the locomotives 329 00:18:34,260 --> 00:18:39,100 from Britain's worst-ever peacetime disaster. Yes. Indeed. 330 00:18:40,700 --> 00:18:44,300 Doncaster's railway history had broader consequences. 331 00:18:44,300 --> 00:18:47,940 Rail workers also shaped our political development. 332 00:18:47,940 --> 00:18:52,180 At the end of the Victorian era, Thomas Steels and Jimmy Holmes 333 00:18:52,180 --> 00:18:54,820 began to fight for workers' rights. 334 00:18:54,820 --> 00:18:57,540 I'm making my way to Sir Nigel Gresley Square 335 00:18:57,540 --> 00:19:00,140 to meet a former political adversary, 336 00:19:00,140 --> 00:19:01,980 Labour MP Rosie Winterton. 337 00:19:04,420 --> 00:19:08,380 So, why is it that the Labour Party particularly celebrates 338 00:19:08,380 --> 00:19:11,140 the memory of two railwaymen from Doncaster? 339 00:19:11,140 --> 00:19:15,140 Thomas Steels and Jimmy Holmes campaigned within parliament 340 00:19:15,140 --> 00:19:19,380 to ensure that working people had proper representations 341 00:19:19,380 --> 00:19:22,860 and their views and concerns were expressed there. 342 00:19:22,860 --> 00:19:24,220 Why did working men not feel 343 00:19:24,220 --> 00:19:26,180 that the Conservatives, or the Liberals, 344 00:19:26,180 --> 00:19:28,580 could represent their interests perfectly well? 345 00:19:28,580 --> 00:19:31,020 Quite honestly because they didn't represent them 346 00:19:31,020 --> 00:19:35,060 and the working people felt they wanted to see 347 00:19:35,060 --> 00:19:37,100 people in parliament 348 00:19:37,100 --> 00:19:39,300 who would take up their concerns. 349 00:19:39,300 --> 00:19:41,780 For example, around issues like health and safety. 350 00:19:41,780 --> 00:19:43,820 They worked in dangerous industries 351 00:19:43,820 --> 00:19:46,460 and wanted to have that representation there 352 00:19:46,460 --> 00:19:50,300 so that people understood and laws could be passed to protect them. 353 00:19:50,300 --> 00:19:52,940 How does that lead to the Labour Party? 354 00:19:52,940 --> 00:19:54,500 Well, by 1906, 355 00:19:54,500 --> 00:19:57,620 they had endorsed 50 candidates 356 00:19:57,620 --> 00:19:59,260 in the general election. 357 00:19:59,260 --> 00:20:02,620 29 of them were elected 358 00:20:02,620 --> 00:20:04,540 and after the election 359 00:20:04,540 --> 00:20:07,140 the Parliamentary Labour Party 360 00:20:07,140 --> 00:20:08,900 was set up to ensure that 361 00:20:08,900 --> 00:20:11,300 the Labour voice could be heard 362 00:20:11,300 --> 00:20:13,740 and organised in Parliament. 363 00:20:13,740 --> 00:20:15,900 Doncaster made history. Exactly. 364 00:20:23,820 --> 00:20:27,700 After discovering such rich railway history in Doncaster, 365 00:20:27,700 --> 00:20:30,340 I'm excited to be heading to my last stop, Leeds. 366 00:20:37,620 --> 00:20:40,300 But maybe this isn't going to be my last stop. 367 00:20:41,700 --> 00:20:43,180 Are we on the wrong train? 368 00:20:43,180 --> 00:20:45,740 Where's this train for? It's the Newcastle train. 369 00:20:47,180 --> 00:20:49,620 I think that's what you call human error. 370 00:20:53,220 --> 00:20:56,300 But after a quick change at York, I'm now back on track... 371 00:20:56,300 --> 00:20:57,940 The next stop will be Leeds. 372 00:21:05,460 --> 00:21:07,260 In the 17th and 18th centuries, 373 00:21:07,260 --> 00:21:08,900 Leeds became a major centre 374 00:21:08,900 --> 00:21:11,740 for producing and trading wool. 375 00:21:11,740 --> 00:21:13,780 During the Industrial Revolution, 376 00:21:13,780 --> 00:21:17,700 engineering, iron foundries and printing became important 377 00:21:17,700 --> 00:21:20,460 and Leeds fast developed into a rich city 378 00:21:20,460 --> 00:21:22,540 with a large working population. 379 00:21:22,540 --> 00:21:24,740 It's evident from Bradshaw's 380 00:21:24,740 --> 00:21:26,860 that mid-19th century Leeds 381 00:21:26,860 --> 00:21:29,660 enjoyed every modern facility. 382 00:21:29,660 --> 00:21:33,700 Public baths, a society for the encouragement of the fine arts, 383 00:21:33,700 --> 00:21:39,220 a music hall, a mechanics' institute and a general infirmary. 384 00:21:39,220 --> 00:21:43,020 As they say, the spice of life is variety. 385 00:21:50,700 --> 00:21:53,420 Travelling performers broadened their horizons 386 00:21:53,420 --> 00:21:55,020 with the advent of the railways. 387 00:21:55,020 --> 00:21:58,460 Many great names passed through the City Varieties' dressing rooms 388 00:21:58,460 --> 00:21:59,740 to make their debut 389 00:21:59,740 --> 00:22:02,940 at Britain's oldest continuously working music hall. 390 00:22:04,580 --> 00:22:08,820 In its 148-year history, it's accumulated a wealth of tales. 391 00:22:10,500 --> 00:22:14,740 I'm meeting the music hall's Rachel Lythe, who knows its history. 392 00:22:14,740 --> 00:22:16,220 Rachel. Hi. 393 00:22:16,220 --> 00:22:18,580 Have I come to the mother's womb of music hall, 394 00:22:18,580 --> 00:22:22,660 the temple of titillation, the Venus and Venice of variety? 395 00:22:22,660 --> 00:22:27,980 Absolutely. What is the difference between theatre and music hall? 396 00:22:27,980 --> 00:22:31,180 The main difference, I think, is partly to do with the licensing. 397 00:22:31,180 --> 00:22:33,020 The theatres were licensed to do drama, 398 00:22:33,020 --> 00:22:35,100 whereas the music halls were licensed to do 399 00:22:35,100 --> 00:22:37,900 music, singing, dancing, drinking, eating, smoking. 400 00:22:37,900 --> 00:22:39,900 It was a noisy venue. 401 00:22:39,900 --> 00:22:42,140 My Bradshaw's, which is mid-1860s, 402 00:22:42,140 --> 00:22:44,180 says that Leeds had a music hall. 403 00:22:44,180 --> 00:22:46,860 So, when did it all begin? Well, actually much earlier. 404 00:22:46,860 --> 00:22:50,140 It dates back to the mid-1700s. There were music halls on every street corner. 405 00:22:50,140 --> 00:22:53,100 It all started off with singing rooms in pubs and inns and taverns. 406 00:22:53,100 --> 00:22:56,380 This building has links back to 1762. The Swan Inn next door, 407 00:22:56,380 --> 00:22:59,020 they then created a singing room in '66 408 00:22:59,020 --> 00:23:03,500 and then 1865, this glorious Varieties Music Hall was opened. 409 00:23:03,500 --> 00:23:06,740 It's absolutely glorious, but it looks very genteel to me. 410 00:23:06,740 --> 00:23:09,620 Look at all these stalls. Did the hoi polloi sit in such stalls? 411 00:23:09,620 --> 00:23:12,540 When we first opened, it would have looked completely different. 412 00:23:12,540 --> 00:23:15,700 None of these seats would have been there. Tables, chairs, benches. 413 00:23:15,700 --> 00:23:17,300 You would have had a bar in here as well, 414 00:23:17,300 --> 00:23:20,060 so you would have been able to easily eat and drink and socialise. 415 00:23:20,060 --> 00:23:22,980 But it would have been a very noisy, rowdy experience. 416 00:23:22,980 --> 00:23:25,020 What was going on on the stage in those days? 417 00:23:25,020 --> 00:23:27,660 Everything from high-wire acts, 418 00:23:27,660 --> 00:23:29,460 to animal acts as well. 419 00:23:29,460 --> 00:23:32,740 You would have had singing, dancing. Any big names in the early days? 420 00:23:32,740 --> 00:23:35,580 One of the ones that started us off was Lillie Langtry, 421 00:23:35,580 --> 00:23:36,780 the famous Jersey Belle. 422 00:23:36,780 --> 00:23:39,100 She would have sung and performed on this stage. 423 00:23:39,100 --> 00:23:40,900 There's a lovely story about Lillie. 424 00:23:40,900 --> 00:23:44,740 It's rumoured that Edward VII used to have an affection for her, 425 00:23:44,740 --> 00:23:45,860 so it's rumoured that 426 00:23:45,860 --> 00:23:48,380 he used to come grouse-shooting to Yorkshire Moors 427 00:23:48,380 --> 00:23:50,620 and then sneak in here when no-one was looking 428 00:23:50,620 --> 00:23:53,500 and he'd sit in Box D over here and he'd close the curtains, 429 00:23:53,500 --> 00:23:56,100 so that he could watch her performance on stage. 430 00:23:56,100 --> 00:23:59,140 And then again, it's rumoured that the crest up here was donated to us 431 00:23:59,140 --> 00:24:02,380 once he became king as a thank you for our discretion. 432 00:24:02,380 --> 00:24:03,620 That's marvellous. 433 00:24:03,620 --> 00:24:06,700 We've also had the famous Harry Houdini. That was 1902. 434 00:24:06,700 --> 00:24:09,700 He was paid £130 to perform on this stage. 435 00:24:09,700 --> 00:24:12,340 It's about the equivalent to £7,500 today. 436 00:24:12,340 --> 00:24:13,740 I think you're holding out on me. 437 00:24:13,740 --> 00:24:16,220 What was the naughtiest thing that happened on the stage? 438 00:24:16,220 --> 00:24:18,860 Actually, this was later years, more the '40s and '50s, 439 00:24:18,860 --> 00:24:20,700 we had the stripteases and the nude shows. 440 00:24:20,700 --> 00:24:23,740 But, interestingly, because of the licensing, they couldn't move, 441 00:24:23,740 --> 00:24:26,500 so they had to do still poses, so it was like a classical pose. 442 00:24:26,500 --> 00:24:28,580 Groups of boys used to come, get front-row seats 443 00:24:28,580 --> 00:24:30,580 and they'd bring along their pea shooters. 444 00:24:30,580 --> 00:24:32,860 So they'd try and make the nudes move 445 00:24:32,860 --> 00:24:35,700 and, again, sit in the boxes and a whole group would get together 446 00:24:35,700 --> 00:24:38,740 and blow at once to try and make the feathers part to reveal more. 447 00:24:41,180 --> 00:24:43,860 By the 1950s, television and cinema 448 00:24:43,860 --> 00:24:46,460 had taken their toll on the music hall 449 00:24:46,460 --> 00:24:48,500 and audiences fell away. 450 00:24:48,500 --> 00:24:52,980 However, television was also the making of this theatre, 451 00:24:52,980 --> 00:24:57,060 thanks to the TV extravaganza The Good Old Days. 452 00:24:57,060 --> 00:25:00,860 Since 1988, Johnny Dennis has been the chairman 453 00:25:00,860 --> 00:25:02,740 who introduces every show. 454 00:25:04,740 --> 00:25:10,260 Johnny, when did The Good Old Days begin on television? 1953. 455 00:25:10,260 --> 00:25:13,580 It was Barney Colehan's, who was a staff producer at the BBC, 456 00:25:13,580 --> 00:25:16,740 idea to run a pilot show from this theatre 457 00:25:16,740 --> 00:25:19,380 and he got together a cast of artists 458 00:25:19,380 --> 00:25:23,220 from the Players' Theatre in London. Leonard Sachs was the chairman 459 00:25:23,220 --> 00:25:27,860 and it ran for 30 years and became the most popular programme 460 00:25:27,860 --> 00:25:29,700 at that time on the BBC. 461 00:25:29,700 --> 00:25:30,900 What was the origin of 462 00:25:30,900 --> 00:25:34,660 the very over-the-top alliterative introductions of the acts? 463 00:25:34,660 --> 00:25:36,580 That was Leonard Sachs's idea. 464 00:25:36,580 --> 00:25:38,860 He was an actor, he loved to be grand, 465 00:25:38,860 --> 00:25:41,740 he invented this very extravagant language, 466 00:25:41,740 --> 00:25:45,220 not strictly period of the musical chairman of the Victorian age, 467 00:25:45,220 --> 00:25:47,420 but he was world-famous for it. 468 00:25:47,420 --> 00:25:51,460 Give me some examples of your fine, flowing introductions. 469 00:25:51,460 --> 00:25:53,700 My lords, ladies and gentlemen, 470 00:25:53,700 --> 00:25:58,220 all the artists have been brought to you at e-nor-mous expense. 471 00:25:58,220 --> 00:26:02,220 And then you say, "And welcome to this magnificent melange 472 00:26:02,220 --> 00:26:05,860 "of musicality, magic and mirth." 473 00:26:05,860 --> 00:26:07,900 Let me see if I can try that. 474 00:26:07,900 --> 00:26:11,940 Welcome to this cavern of conviviality, 475 00:26:11,940 --> 00:26:15,460 this Valhalla of variety... Very good. 476 00:26:15,460 --> 00:26:18,700 ..this emporium of entertainment. 477 00:26:18,700 --> 00:26:21,740 Very good. It could use a little improvement, actually. 478 00:26:21,740 --> 00:26:25,300 Imagine that you were a Victorian actor of the day. 479 00:26:25,300 --> 00:26:29,980 So, you have to gain their attention by making dramatic gestures like, 480 00:26:29,980 --> 00:26:34,100 "Welcome!" and use your hands like this, with the gavel in your hand, 481 00:26:34,100 --> 00:26:37,020 and then dominate the audience. 482 00:26:37,020 --> 00:26:39,820 Try that with the gavel. That's Leonard Sachs's gavel 483 00:26:39,820 --> 00:26:41,660 Would you mind holding my Bradshaw? 484 00:26:41,660 --> 00:26:45,140 I would be honoured to hold Mr Bradshaw. 485 00:26:45,140 --> 00:26:49,540 Welcome to this cavern of conviviality, 486 00:26:49,540 --> 00:26:54,900 this emporium of entertainment, 487 00:26:54,900 --> 00:27:00,020 to this Valhalla of Victorian variety. 488 00:27:00,020 --> 00:27:01,780 Bravo. 489 00:27:01,780 --> 00:27:05,820 It was the gavel that did it. It's that gavel always that does it. 490 00:27:05,820 --> 00:27:09,660 So, the show that you perform today, 491 00:27:09,660 --> 00:27:12,820 would it be recognisable to Mr George Bradshaw? 492 00:27:12,820 --> 00:27:16,580 I would like to think so. I'm a great admirer of Mr Bradshaw 493 00:27:16,580 --> 00:27:19,820 and I'm sure he would have been a great admirer of the music hall. 494 00:27:23,500 --> 00:27:28,340 The names of great locomotives are etched in British history. 495 00:27:28,340 --> 00:27:31,820 Railwaymen switched the points on British politics, 496 00:27:31,820 --> 00:27:34,380 taking them in new directions. 497 00:27:34,380 --> 00:27:39,140 Famous names have graced the playbills in this music hall too. 498 00:27:39,140 --> 00:27:42,780 As I complete my journey from London to Leeds, 499 00:27:42,780 --> 00:27:45,620 Bradshaw's has opened up England 500 00:27:45,620 --> 00:27:48,740 with all its rich variety. 501 00:27:48,740 --> 00:27:50,900 Journey over... 502 00:27:50,900 --> 00:27:52,540 the final curtain. 503 00:27:52,540 --> 00:27:55,660 CHEERING AND APPLAUSE 504 00:28:01,420 --> 00:28:06,220 On my next adventure, I learn to set table aboard an ocean liner... 505 00:28:06,220 --> 00:28:08,140 Oh, you're faster than me! 506 00:28:08,140 --> 00:28:11,820 I visit a suspected Solent smuggler's hideaway... 507 00:28:11,820 --> 00:28:13,860 Whoa! What a view! 508 00:28:15,580 --> 00:28:17,900 And I discover the tactics employed 509 00:28:17,900 --> 00:28:20,220 by the Victorian temperance movement... 510 00:28:20,220 --> 00:28:23,500 All of a sudden, a group of uniformed invaders come along, 511 00:28:23,500 --> 00:28:26,580 shouting, "You're going to hell! You will not be saved 512 00:28:26,580 --> 00:28:29,100 "if you carry on drinking this foul liquid."