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In 1840, one man transformed
travel in Britain.

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His name was George Bradshaw,

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and his Railway Guides inspired the
Victorians to take to the tracks.

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Stop by stop, he told them where to
go, what to see and where to stay.

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And now, 170 years later, I'm aboard
for a series of rail adventures

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across the United Kingdom, to see
what of Bradshaw's Britain remains.

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Today, I'm beginning a new journey,

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curving my way up the spine of
England, using mainly branch lines.

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These tracks put local
trades in touch with big markets

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in the city,
led to the invention of the commuter

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and, most importantly, enabled
the Victorian masses to explore

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their own country, an experience
which I'm repeating today.

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On this stretch, I learn
to set table aboard an ocean liner.

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Thank you very much.

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You're faster than me!

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MICHAEL LAUGHS

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I visit a suspected Solent
smugglers' hideaway.

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Whoa! What a view!

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Isn't that magnificent?

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And I discover the tactics employed

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by the Victorian temperance
movement.

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All of a sudden, a group of uniformed
invaders come along, shouting,

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"Come out of the devil's house!
You're going to hell!

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"You will not be saved if you carry
on drinking this foul liquid!"

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My journey starts
on the south coast,

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heads to Hampshire's
garrison town,

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takes in the cloth makers
of Newbury,

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an engineering triumph in Bristol,

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and concludes in the West Midlands
at Wolverhampton.

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This leg starts amidst the luxury
cruise liners of Southampton docks,

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heads West to the town of Totton,

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south east to Netley
and ends in riotous Basingstoke.

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My first stop today is Southampton.

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Bradshaw's says that,
"Owing to the advantageous effects

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"of the railways, it's become
one of our leading commercial ports,

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"formed on a scale of great
magnitude."

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I first visited the city
when I was a schoolchild

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on a primary school outing

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and I remember being so impressed
by the scale of everything.

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In particular, in those days,

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by the magnificent three-funnelled
Queen Mary.

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Set upon the River Itchen
and adjacent to the Solent,

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Saxon Southampton was such
an important port that,

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in the 9th century,
it even had its own Royal Mint.

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Famous for its docks,
and as the port from which

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the doomed ocean
liner Titanic sailed in 1912,

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Southampton received
its railway in 1840.

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But in those Victorian times

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a train ride ended in a different
location.

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Bradshaw's refers to Southampton
Terminus Station.

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This is Southampton Central,
not, I think, the same place.

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I'm going in search
of the old station.

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A merchant city for hundreds
of years,

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Southampton prospered
during the 19th century,

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importing the timber,
coal and slate

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that would build the factories
and urban housing

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of Southern England's
Industrial Revolution.

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And many of those buildings
still remain.

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This street, Oxford Street,
has the feel and shape of a street

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that Bradshaw's might have known

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and unless I'm much mistaken, that
elegant building ahead

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must be the old Terminus Station.

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When the new docks opened in 1842

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the London and South Western Railway
was here to transport

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passengers and freight
from Southampton Terminus Station.

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Local historian, Dave Marden,
knows more.

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Dave, hello. Hello, Michael.

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I feel a tear in my eye because this
was clearly once a railway station.

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Yes, it was a really marvellous
station at one time.

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It was the main
station from Southampton.

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We're under the canopy here.
Where were the platforms?

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The platforms were dead ahead.

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It was built in 1839 and the railway
through to London

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was opened completely in 1840.

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Southampton Terminus initially
comprised just two platforms
and an engine shed

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but by the late 1860s, the opulent
Imperial Hotel had been added.

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Known as "the Ritz of the South",

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this glamorous accommodation
catered for a surprising clientele.

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Not travellers making connections
to far-off destinations

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but fun seekers who flocked to bathe
in the waters of the Solent

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and to enjoy the pleasures
of Southampton's Royal Pier,

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which they reached by train.

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Here we are, Michael.
This is what's left of the pier.

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What was it like in its heyday?

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It was generally referred
to as "the fun centre of the south".

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In the Victorian period we had
the pavilion with its ballroom,

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exhibitions, bandstand,

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paddle steamers taking people
on trips up and down the coast.

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And the railway came first to the
pier and then ran along the pier?

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That's right. Originally,

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they had just a bare wooden
platform on the pier

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but when the pier was rebuilt in 1892
it was expanded into

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a double platform with canopies, a
rather grand place for stopping off

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and seeing the delights of the pier.

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Thanks so much, Dave.
You're welcome. Bye-bye.

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As well as a holiday destination,

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Southampton remained
an important port.

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By 1830, 100,000 people
were travelling by steamship

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from here each year.

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And in the early 20th century,

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the numbers taking their leave
of Britain increased dramatically

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as first White Star and then Cunard
made Southampton THE place

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from which to embark upon
a transatlantic journey

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aboard an enormous cruise liner.

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And that tradition continues today.

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Cunard's Queen Elizabeth
has just docked.

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How are you?
Very well, Mr Portillo!

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You've just come off
the Queen Elizabeth? Yes.

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How was it? Very nice. Excellent.

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Where have you been?
The Canaries and Madeira.

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Now, are you habitual cruisers? Yes!

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So how long before your next cruise?
Three weeks! Three weeks?!

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Yeah, it's only a four-day one!
Are you just going on?

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I am going on, I'm going
to have a little look around.

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Thank you, bye-bye.
Thank you very much. Bye-bye.

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When you're
alongside the Queen Elizabeth,

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it really does inspire awe, towering
above me, as elegant as a cathedral,

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as tall as an office block, as long
as a train, and I get to go aboard.

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In 1839, Nova Scotian,
Samuel Cunard,

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founded the British
and North American

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Royal Mail Steam Packet Company

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to transport post between
Britain and North America.

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As the revenue from passenger
journeys gradually outstripped

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that gleaned from delivering
the mail, Cunard's steamers

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became renowned
as the fastest across the Atlantic

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and in order to remain
so, in the early 20th century,

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the company built the super-liners
Mauretania and Lusitania.

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The Queen Elizabeth entered
Cunard's service in 2010,

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a tribute to her luxurious
1938 namesake.

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The first thing you come to on this
ship is the grand lobby.

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It is spectacular.

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Suspended balconies,
suspended staircases, chandeliers,

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marble floor and
this wonderful evocation

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of the old Queen Elizabeth,
the one built in the 1930s.

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One of the ships
I remember from my childhood.

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Famous as brave Second World War
troop carriers

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globetrotting ships have
always been glamorous, too.

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Cunard's current president
is Peter Shanks.

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Peter, hello. Welcome on board.

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Thank you so much.

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You've had a lot of very famous
people on board.

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All the way back into the 19th
century and through the 20th.

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Who might you pick out?

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Well, in 1840, Charles Dickens
himself sailed on the Britannia,

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our first ship. Now, we weren't
particularly pleased

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with what he wrote
about the experience.

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And then there've been presidents, be
it Roosevelt,

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Churchill was
a regular traveller

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and then some of the famous
Hollywood and British stars,

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be it Liz Taylor, Laurel and Hardy,
Frank Sinatra, many, many people.

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Walt Disney himself loved to travel
on the Queen Elizabeth.

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Each voyage of the Queen Elizabeth

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sees the consumption of almost
12,000 bottles of wine,

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nearly 5,000 toothpicks
and more than 50,000 eggs.

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Resupplying and making ready
for each sailing is a mammoth task.

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Now, as I came on the ship, people
were leaving.

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They'd come off the cruise.

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How long is it until you'll get
a new set of people

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and you'll be off again?

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2,000 people have left
by about ten o'clock

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and we'll sail at half past four,
full with a new 2,000 people,

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and during that time
we're working miracles

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with the team on board
to get everything ready.

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Well, that is astonishing. That's
an amazing rate of turnaround.

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How on earth do you do it?

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Well, I thought we could have some
fun by asking you to help do it,

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Michael, and what better way
than to ask our maitre d'

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to help you lay a table
and see how we get on?

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Welcome aboard, sir.
Thank you.

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It's lovely to see you.
What do I do, then?

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Well, this is a set of our cutleries
here. If you like to help me out,

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you start from the other side,
I will take a set

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and I will start from this
side for you, sir.

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OK, and I suppose speed
is important here.

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Speed is important, sir.
Very good, sir.

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On the left...

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Spoon goes on the right.
Oh, wait, soup spoon, right.

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We can put our dessert
cutlery on top.

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About the side knives...

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Side knife. You haven't given me any
side knives...

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Oh, yes, you have. There we are,
thank you. Thank you very much.

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Oh, you're faster than me!

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MICHAEL LAUGHS

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Bravo!

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Thank you very much.

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Now. The table isn't complete,
because we don't have any napkins.

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We'll be doing some napkins.

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So we're going to fold
the napkin into half.

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You can use a chair, if you like,
so it will be easy for you.

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Now, all about is that you have to
be synchronise yourself.

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One up, one down,

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one up, one down.

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And the pleats should be nice,
and the same of size.

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Leave a little gap.

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Mine's going a little bit wild.

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Well, that's good.

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Turn into half.

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Very good. This little quarter
of this left napkin,
we're going to tuck it in.

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Napkin is ready. Oh, yes!

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MICHAEL GUFFAWS

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Oh, dear. A little more practice,
I think!

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Sanjay, that's absolutely
brilliant. That looks beautiful.

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The opulence of the Queen Elizabeth
is a reminder that, for those who

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could afford it, passage aboard a
liner was a luxurious experience.

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But they were the lucky few,

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because in Bradshaw's day,
most travelled steerage.

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Your theatre is superb.

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But it makes me think,
amidst all this elegance,

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of people who
travelled in less fortunate times.

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They were emigrating away from
starvation and famine in Europe.

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Yes, many to North America.

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And we think that, over our history,
over the last 170 years,

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around ten million people have
emigrated to North America

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00:12:03,340 --> 00:12:04,540
through Cunard Line.

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Here we are on the bridge.

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It's an amazing space, isn't it?

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What a fantastic position from which
to control this monster ship.

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This is our captain, Alistair Clarke.

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00:12:19,580 --> 00:12:20,620
Alistair.

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I find it quite alarming to park
a small BMW.

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I mean, what does it feel like to
bring one of these things alongside?

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It's a very satisfying experience.

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And these really
rather small levers,

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control the whole ship, do they?
These do.

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So although they're small, it's
like power steering in your car.

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You don't need to move them far.

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Just a little wiggle. Just a little.

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If you've got a choppy sea, what do
you do about maintaining stability?

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Well, we have stabilisers which
counteract any roll, but generally,

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this ship is an excellent sea ship
and she rides very well.

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As the Queen Elizabeth sets
off on another voyage,

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after a long day in this city,

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00:13:01,100 --> 00:13:03,660
it's time for me to head
to my next destination.

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As my evening train runs alongside
Southampton's busy port,

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I thought I would find somewhere
more rural to seek my rest

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and Bradshaw's tells me, "There
are seats", meaning country houses,

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"and pretty spots
in the neighbourhood

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00:13:28,820 --> 00:13:32,180
"such as Eaglehurst,
near Calshot Castle."

239
00:13:32,180 --> 00:13:34,340
Eaglehurst. That sounds
like a pleasant estate

240
00:13:34,340 --> 00:13:36,140
and there I shall spend the night.

241
00:13:37,860 --> 00:13:41,260
Travelling just three stops
on the main line toward Poole,

242
00:13:41,260 --> 00:13:43,060
I've crossed the River Test

243
00:13:43,060 --> 00:13:46,740
and I'm alighting at Totton Station
to make my way to Eaglehurst.

244
00:13:48,140 --> 00:13:51,020
But my overnight bolt hole
is not the grand bungalow

245
00:13:51,020 --> 00:13:53,300
built here by the 7th Earl of Cavan.

246
00:13:53,300 --> 00:13:56,500
My bed for the night
lies within a tower

247
00:13:56,500 --> 00:14:01,460
whose history is known to Caroline
Stanford from the Landmark Trust.

248
00:14:02,980 --> 00:14:04,580
Caroline, hello. Hello.

249
00:14:04,580 --> 00:14:07,500
Well, what is this? It looks to me
like a folly.

250
00:14:07,500 --> 00:14:09,900
Yes well, welcome
to Luttrell's Tower.

251
00:14:09,900 --> 00:14:13,780
It is indeed a folly -
castellated, 18th-century,

252
00:14:13,780 --> 00:14:17,220
rather picturesque tower,
standing on the edge of the Solent.

253
00:14:17,220 --> 00:14:18,860
And named after?

254
00:14:18,860 --> 00:14:21,220
It's named after
Temple Simon Luttrell,

255
00:14:21,220 --> 00:14:23,220
who was the gentleman who built it.

256
00:14:23,220 --> 00:14:27,340
He came from an Irish family
of slightly disreputable figures.

257
00:14:27,340 --> 00:14:30,420
He was a very, very quarrelsome,
cantankerous fellow

258
00:14:30,420 --> 00:14:34,260
so he challenged lots of people to
duels, including his own son, even.

259
00:14:36,700 --> 00:14:40,780
Temple Luttrell wasn't just
a parliamentarian who liked a duel.

260
00:14:40,780 --> 00:14:44,180
He was also a suspected smuggler,

261
00:14:44,180 --> 00:14:48,220
whose folly comprises a tower
reaching high into the sky

262
00:14:48,220 --> 00:14:51,140
for a bird's-eye of view
of local shipping,

263
00:14:51,140 --> 00:14:54,860
and a tunnel leading suspiciously
to the shore of the Solent.

264
00:14:57,220 --> 00:14:58,180
Do come in.

265
00:14:59,740 --> 00:15:03,100
Surprisingly tall tower
when you're going up the steps.

266
00:15:03,100 --> 00:15:06,060
I'm sure the view's going to
make it absolutely worth while.

267
00:15:06,060 --> 00:15:09,220
Yeah, it'll all be worthwhile
when we get to the very top.

268
00:15:09,220 --> 00:15:10,380
And here we are.

269
00:15:13,380 --> 00:15:14,900
Right on the top.

270
00:15:14,900 --> 00:15:19,340
Oh! It's smaller than I thought.
Whoa! But what a view.

271
00:15:19,340 --> 00:15:21,420
Isn't that magnificent?

272
00:15:21,420 --> 00:15:24,460
Yes, it's rather wonderful, isn't
it? You can see why he built it here.

273
00:15:24,460 --> 00:15:27,020
Yeah, as follies go,
it's really worthwhile.

274
00:15:27,020 --> 00:15:31,620
Such a great place to watch
the great liners and ships go by.

275
00:15:31,620 --> 00:15:34,940
Yes, and there've been some very
famous ships that have gone
past the tower,

276
00:15:34,940 --> 00:15:36,580
including the Titanic.

277
00:15:36,580 --> 00:15:41,140
Radio pioneer Marconi rented
Eaglehurst for his radio

278
00:15:41,140 --> 00:15:45,780
experiments and his wife and his
daughter stood where we're
standing now,

279
00:15:45,780 --> 00:15:50,020
as the Titanic sailed from
Southampton on her doomed
maiden voyage

280
00:15:50,020 --> 00:15:54,100
and waved together a red silk
scarf, with all the passengers

281
00:15:54,100 --> 00:15:57,740
on the ship waving back at them with
handkerchiefs and scarves as well.

282
00:15:57,740 --> 00:15:59,420
That's a sad story.

283
00:15:59,420 --> 00:16:01,340
And did the Victorians like
this tower?

284
00:16:01,340 --> 00:16:03,660
Yes, even Queen Victoria
liked this tower.

285
00:16:03,660 --> 00:16:06,940
As a young princess, she looked at it
and seriously considered

286
00:16:06,940 --> 00:16:10,780
buying the estate before she found
Osborne House on the Isle of Wight.

287
00:16:10,780 --> 00:16:14,420
I'm really delighted to have found
such a beautiful place to
spend the night.

288
00:16:34,540 --> 00:16:38,820
Apart from the perfect porridge,
this is perfection in every
other way.

289
00:16:38,820 --> 00:16:41,460
The sun is streaming through
the windows,

290
00:16:41,460 --> 00:16:44,900
the view of the Solent is beautiful
and a few hardy souls

291
00:16:44,900 --> 00:16:49,140
are already out in their sailing
boats just to decorate the view.

292
00:16:56,460 --> 00:17:00,180
Fully fuelled and ready for the
day ahead, I'm heading back to

293
00:17:00,180 --> 00:17:04,380
Southampton Central to catch a
connection to my next destination,

294
00:17:04,380 --> 00:17:07,940
located about 20 minutes south east
towards Portsmouth,

295
00:17:07,940 --> 00:17:12,300
a line my guide book recommends
for its aesthetic charms.

296
00:17:15,940 --> 00:17:19,140
Bradshaw has beautiful descriptions.

297
00:17:19,140 --> 00:17:23,500
"On each side breaks in a view
of the Southampton sea, deep blue,

298
00:17:23,500 --> 00:17:25,540
"glistening with silver
and vessels."

299
00:17:27,180 --> 00:17:29,780
I'm headed now to Netley.
Bradshaw's tells me that,

300
00:17:29,780 --> 00:17:34,540
"Near the ruins of the old abbey,
a noble military college has

301
00:17:34,540 --> 00:17:39,500
"recently been erected, and the drum
leads me in that direction."

302
00:17:42,220 --> 00:17:43,740
GUARD: Tickets please.

303
00:17:45,420 --> 00:17:46,940
Thank you very much, sir.

304
00:17:46,940 --> 00:17:49,420
Going as far as Netley.
OK, nice day for it.

305
00:17:49,420 --> 00:17:52,140
Do you remember a hospital there,
do you have any memory of that?

306
00:17:52,140 --> 00:17:56,220
Yes, there was a wartime military
hospital at Netley, the chapel
is still left there.

307
00:17:56,220 --> 00:17:58,820
Interesting history, eh?
Indeed, certainly. Have a good day.

308
00:17:58,820 --> 00:18:01,180
Thank you very much indeed.

309
00:18:01,180 --> 00:18:03,900
ANNOUNCEMENT: The next station
is Netley. Please mind the gap.

310
00:18:09,820 --> 00:18:17,100
Upset by the poor standard of care
she saw in Chatham on a visit to
soldiers wounded in the Crimean War,

311
00:18:17,100 --> 00:18:20,780
Queen Victoria spearheaded
the development of an institution

312
00:18:20,780 --> 00:18:24,060
that would revolutionise the
treatment of injured troops.

313
00:18:24,060 --> 00:18:27,460
Commissioned in 1856 and set
within 200 acres,

314
00:18:27,460 --> 00:18:32,780
the enormous Royal Victoria Hospital
took seven years to build.

315
00:18:32,780 --> 00:18:39,020
Deemed too costly to run, in 1966
the hospital was demolished and only
the chapel remains.

316
00:18:39,020 --> 00:18:44,140
But curator, Captain Pete Starling,
knows what once stood here.

317
00:18:44,140 --> 00:18:46,740
Hello, Pete.
Good morning. Nice to meet you.

318
00:18:46,740 --> 00:18:48,820
And this was a military
hospital here?

319
00:18:48,820 --> 00:18:52,220
It was, it was our first
purpose-built military hospital.

320
00:18:52,220 --> 00:18:55,180
It was a quarter of a mile long...
Amazing.

321
00:18:55,180 --> 00:18:58,540
..138 wards and 1,000 beds.

322
00:18:58,540 --> 00:19:01,100
If we look down you can see this
line of bricks here,

323
00:19:01,100 --> 00:19:03,580
well, this is the extremity of
the hospital.

324
00:19:03,580 --> 00:19:06,060
So if we now look at the chapel
and look that way,

325
00:19:06,060 --> 00:19:09,620
you'll see that is actually in the
centre of where the hospital was.

326
00:19:09,620 --> 00:19:13,620
So you've got the same distance
from here to the chapel,
the other side

327
00:19:13,620 --> 00:19:16,340
and that gives you some sense on the
size of it. Awe inspiring.

328
00:19:16,340 --> 00:19:20,020
It's in a somewhat remote spot. How
did they bring the wounded men here?

329
00:19:20,020 --> 00:19:22,700
Well, in its heyday they brought them
here by train.

330
00:19:22,700 --> 00:19:25,980
At the time of the South African war,
1899 to 1902,

331
00:19:25,980 --> 00:19:29,980
they extended the railway line
from Netley into the back of
the hospital,

332
00:19:29,980 --> 00:19:33,100
and they had this purpose-built
covered platform and these

333
00:19:33,100 --> 00:19:36,540
ambulance wagons would be shunted
up to the back of the hospital

334
00:19:36,540 --> 00:19:40,580
and all the patients would be
off-loaded and wheeled in to
the reception.

335
00:19:42,220 --> 00:19:46,780
At a time when many thought faith
as powerful a healer as medicine,

336
00:19:46,780 --> 00:19:50,220
the chapel, big enough to house
all 1,000 patients,

337
00:19:50,220 --> 00:19:52,060
was at the heart of the hospital.

338
00:19:55,820 --> 00:19:58,060
Even the tower of the chapel
is enormous

339
00:19:58,060 --> 00:20:00,900
and it gives you a spectacular
view, doesn't it?

340
00:20:00,900 --> 00:20:03,980
Magnificent, isn't it?
Particularly over the Solent. Yes.

341
00:20:03,980 --> 00:20:07,220
You have to admire the scale of
what they attempted to do here,

342
00:20:07,220 --> 00:20:10,100
and even if we can't see
most of the hospital now,

343
00:20:10,100 --> 00:20:13,980
we could attempt to listen
to at least one of its sounds.

344
00:20:15,540 --> 00:20:17,580
BELL TOLLS

345
00:20:20,740 --> 00:20:22,820
But not everyone was impressed.

346
00:20:24,260 --> 00:20:28,700
Florence Nightingale voiced serious
concern that Netley's cramped wards,

347
00:20:28,700 --> 00:20:32,580
long corridors and lack
of ventilation were a perfect

348
00:20:32,580 --> 00:20:34,700
breeding ground for infection.

349
00:20:35,860 --> 00:20:39,020
But the Lady of the Lamp's
warnings went unheeded,

350
00:20:39,020 --> 00:20:43,540
and Queen Victoria herself laid
the institution's foundation stone.

351
00:20:45,060 --> 00:20:48,260
As she was about to lay
the foundation stone,

352
00:20:48,260 --> 00:20:53,580
she placed beneath it a copper
casket, and we've got the
copper casket here,

353
00:20:53,580 --> 00:20:56,540
with one or two objects
that were placed inside it.

354
00:20:56,540 --> 00:20:57,860
A sort of time capsule?

355
00:20:57,860 --> 00:21:01,020
Yes, because she put plans of
the hospital inside it,

356
00:21:01,020 --> 00:21:04,300
she put coins of the realm,
a Crimean war medal with

357
00:21:04,300 --> 00:21:08,900
the four bars commemorating the four
great battles on land of the war.

358
00:21:08,900 --> 00:21:12,020
But more importantly,
the Victoria Cross.

359
00:21:12,020 --> 00:21:16,260
The Victoria Cross, the
highest award for gallantry in the
armed forces.

360
00:21:16,260 --> 00:21:19,780
Absolutely. So, this was one of the
first Victoria Crosses ever made,

361
00:21:19,780 --> 00:21:23,380
and she placed it in this
copper box with that Crimean medal

362
00:21:23,380 --> 00:21:26,020
and it was put beneath
the foundation stone,

363
00:21:26,020 --> 00:21:30,100
and the foundation stone was lowered
onto the top of it. Amazing.

364
00:21:30,100 --> 00:21:34,340
The wounded of two world wars passed
through the wards of this hospital,

365
00:21:34,340 --> 00:21:36,180
and it's become a place of homage.

366
00:21:37,380 --> 00:21:40,300
You've been showing a lot
of interest in the chapel today.

367
00:21:40,300 --> 00:21:42,740
Do you have a special
reason for being here?

368
00:21:42,740 --> 00:21:46,140
Yes, I have memories of
my grandfather.

369
00:21:46,140 --> 00:21:48,700
He was shell-shocked
during the First World War

370
00:21:48,700 --> 00:21:52,220
and he was in Netley hospital
for quite a long time.

371
00:21:52,220 --> 00:21:57,700
And because we're on holiday here,
I wanted to see the Netley hospital.

372
00:21:57,700 --> 00:22:00,540
Where had he been in combat?

373
00:22:00,540 --> 00:22:08,300
In France. I remember hearing him
speaking about Mons and the Somme.

374
00:22:08,300 --> 00:22:12,500
And you're clutching some
old-looking photographs there.
What do they show?

375
00:22:12,500 --> 00:22:18,100
Yes, there is this photograph
of my grandfather in hospital.

376
00:22:18,100 --> 00:22:23,460
This X is my grandfather.
He was in the Black Watch.

377
00:22:23,460 --> 00:22:25,540
And here in Netley, this?

378
00:22:25,540 --> 00:22:31,820
Yes, because on the back of the
photograph, this writing is
very old writing. Yes.

379
00:22:31,820 --> 00:22:33,460
"Willy in Netley hospital."

380
00:22:33,460 --> 00:22:36,020
"Willy in Netley hospital."
Absolutely clear.

381
00:22:36,020 --> 00:22:39,580
How does it feel today being,
there's only the chapel left,

382
00:22:39,580 --> 00:22:43,180
but you are in the place where
your grandfather was hospitalised.
How does that feel?

383
00:22:43,180 --> 00:22:46,660
Well, I feel a bit emotional.
I was only 15 when he died.

384
00:22:46,660 --> 00:22:49,740
Ah, well, I've met you on a special
day, thank you for talking.

385
00:22:49,740 --> 00:22:52,940
Thank you, it's a privilege, thank
you. Have a safe journey back
to Aberdeen.

386
00:22:52,940 --> 00:22:54,620
Thank you very much. Bye-bye.

387
00:23:05,100 --> 00:23:09,220
Bradshaw's is not entirely
complimentary about my next stop.

388
00:23:09,220 --> 00:23:13,540
"Basingstoke is a straggling,
ill-built town.

389
00:23:13,540 --> 00:23:16,500
"It is nevertheless
a place of great antiquity

390
00:23:16,500 --> 00:23:19,060
"and appears in the Domesday Book.

391
00:23:19,060 --> 00:23:23,740
"The inhabitants now mainly
depend on the corn and malt trades."

392
00:23:23,740 --> 00:23:28,020
And at this stage of the day,
I fancy a cooling glass of beer.

393
00:23:30,180 --> 00:23:36,020
In the Middle Ages, the small market
town of Basingstoke grew prosperous
on wool and textiles.

394
00:23:36,020 --> 00:23:37,620
And by the 18th century,

395
00:23:37,620 --> 00:23:40,620
its location made it an important
watering hole

396
00:23:40,620 --> 00:23:44,420
for the many stage coaches heading
south and west from London.

397
00:23:49,460 --> 00:23:52,500
Breweries sprang up to quench
the thirst of travellers.

398
00:23:52,500 --> 00:23:56,580
Although the railway's arrival
in 1839 saw the trade decline,

399
00:23:56,580 --> 00:23:59,980
in the 1880s there were
still four breweries

400
00:23:59,980 --> 00:24:05,060
and almost 60 pubs in a town of less
than 7,000 inhabitants.

401
00:24:05,060 --> 00:24:10,500
It was a boozy place, which soon
attracted the attention of the
growing temperance movement.

402
00:24:12,580 --> 00:24:16,940
I'm meeting Local historian,
Bob Clark, to find out
about an incident

403
00:24:16,940 --> 00:24:21,100
that placed Basingstoke firmly on
the moral map of Bradshaw's Britain.

404
00:24:23,140 --> 00:24:27,020
Well, Bob, you've chosen a lovely
quiet spot for a glass of beer.

405
00:24:27,020 --> 00:24:30,260
But it wouldn't have
been like this back in 1881.

406
00:24:30,260 --> 00:24:34,380
Can you imagine? We're just sitting
here enjoying our beer quietly,

407
00:24:34,380 --> 00:24:37,780
all of a sudden a group of uniformed
invaders come along,

408
00:24:37,780 --> 00:24:42,100
dressed in quasi Army uniforms
banging a big bass drum,

409
00:24:42,100 --> 00:24:45,700
shouting, "Come out of the Devil's
house! You'll go into Hell!

410
00:24:45,700 --> 00:24:49,740
"You will not be saved if you
carry on drinking this foul liquid."

411
00:24:49,740 --> 00:24:52,380
You're referring to the
Salvation Army, aren't you?

412
00:24:52,380 --> 00:24:56,540
I am indeed, but the Salvation Army
is not as we now know it,

413
00:24:56,540 --> 00:25:02,300
a benign organisation that does
a lot of useful social work.

414
00:25:02,300 --> 00:25:07,340
They wanted to ban all drink, and of
course, because there were so many

415
00:25:07,340 --> 00:25:12,700
people who were dependent on drink
for their livelihood in the town,

416
00:25:12,700 --> 00:25:17,980
they felt under threat, so there was
a kind of war between the two sides.

417
00:25:20,060 --> 00:25:23,900
In 1878, William Booth's
Christian Mission

418
00:25:23,900 --> 00:25:28,700
changed its name to the Salvation
Army and declared war on sin.

419
00:25:28,700 --> 00:25:34,620
In 1880, Christian soldiers marched
onward into Basingstoke,

420
00:25:34,620 --> 00:25:39,100
where local brewers had whipped
up the so-called Massagainians,

421
00:25:39,100 --> 00:25:44,220
a mob to disrupt Booth's campaign
against beer and drinking
establishments.

422
00:25:44,220 --> 00:25:49,500
In March 1881, matters came to
a head in an incident that

423
00:25:49,500 --> 00:25:54,020
became known nationally
as The Battle of Church Square.

424
00:25:56,380 --> 00:25:59,860
In the morning the two
armies clashed,

425
00:25:59,860 --> 00:26:04,140
Charles Elms, described in court
as a muscular Salvationist,

426
00:26:04,140 --> 00:26:09,380
managed to rest the Massagainians'
Union Jack, their flag of
honour, from them

427
00:26:09,380 --> 00:26:12,220
and that really started
the fighting.

428
00:26:12,220 --> 00:26:14,260
There was fighting in the morning.

429
00:26:14,260 --> 00:26:18,140
Charles Elms, for his pains,
got his arm broken.

430
00:26:18,140 --> 00:26:23,020
People tumbling over, one poor soul
went through a plate glass window
of a shop.

431
00:26:23,020 --> 00:26:26,100
The poor chap who had his arm
broken in the morning had his
head broken

432
00:26:26,100 --> 00:26:30,500
in the afternoon when somebody
hit him over the head with a stick.

433
00:26:30,500 --> 00:26:35,820
Somebody else had his jaw broken.
Apparently lots of people
lost lots of teeth.

434
00:26:35,820 --> 00:26:42,020
This is the most extraordinary,
and to me completely unknown story.
What were its consequences?

435
00:26:42,020 --> 00:26:46,420
Well, its consequences were that
Basingstoke, which nobody
had heard of before,

436
00:26:46,420 --> 00:26:48,620
made headlines in the national press.

437
00:26:48,620 --> 00:26:53,540
One journalist described Basingstoke
as a benighted little town that

438
00:26:53,540 --> 00:26:59,180
appears to be populated chiefly by
a set of barbarians. Now that's fame!

439
00:26:59,180 --> 00:27:02,980
Thank goodness, Bob, you've shaken
off that reputation since.

440
00:27:02,980 --> 00:27:06,460
And was this riot unique
to Basingstoke?

441
00:27:06,460 --> 00:27:11,380
Oh, no, there were riots in 60 towns,
but Basingstoke was the first.

442
00:27:11,380 --> 00:27:14,460
Where Basingstoke leads, other
towns follow.

443
00:27:21,460 --> 00:27:27,420
One of the great ocean liners
sailing from Southampton bears the
name of Queen Victoria.

444
00:27:27,420 --> 00:27:33,300
She made her home on the Isle of
Wight, from which she could
contemplate the Solent,

445
00:27:33,300 --> 00:27:36,900
sharing a view with those
of her soldiers who'd

446
00:27:36,900 --> 00:27:40,300
been wounded fighting
to defend her Empire.

447
00:27:40,300 --> 00:27:46,980
I thought I knew the names of the
great battles of her reign -
Balaclava, Khartoum and Mafeking.

448
00:27:46,980 --> 00:27:52,780
But now I can add another to the
roll call...The Battle of Church
Square, Basingstoke.

449
00:27:55,540 --> 00:27:59,940
Next time, I encounter the Duke
of Wellington's impressive
funeral car.

450
00:27:59,940 --> 00:28:04,700
It is the most colossal thing,
isn't it? Absolutely enormous.

451
00:28:04,700 --> 00:28:07,820
I get my marching orders from
the Army.

452
00:28:07,820 --> 00:28:11,340
Get those knees up, Portillo,
get those knees up nice and high.

453
00:28:11,340 --> 00:28:12,820
Ahh!

454
00:28:12,820 --> 00:28:19,380
And I learn of the surprisingly
enlightened 19th-century attitude
towards the criminally insane.

455
00:28:19,380 --> 00:28:24,100
The Victorians established that
people with mental illness
who'd committed crime

456
00:28:24,100 --> 00:28:27,300
needed health care. They needed a
hospital, not a prison.