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In 1840, one man
transformed travel in Britain.

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His name was George Bradshaw,

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and his railway guides inspired the
Victorians to take to the tracks.

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Stop by stop he told them where to
go, what to see, and where to stay.

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And now, 170 years later,

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I am aboard for a series of rail
adventures

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across the United Kingdom

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to see what of Bradshaw's
Britain remains.

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I'm embarked on
a new railway journey

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from one cathedral city to another,
from Norwich to Chichester.

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But even using my high
Victorian guidebook, this journey

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will be more secular
than ecclesiastical,

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not so much heavenly as earthy.

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On this leg, I'll hang out
with a notorious Victorian criminal.

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This is a replica
of James Rush's death mask.

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It does show very clearly

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where the rope has cut
directly into his neck.

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Isn't that grim?!

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'Meet a polecat
who is just a nipper.'

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Ooh!

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'And chip away at an age-old craft.'

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Could you make a flint out of that?

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Yeah, it's perfect.

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My journey begins in Norwich and
continues southwest into Suffolk.

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From Ipswich,
I'll head south to Chelmsford,

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and travel across the Thames
through the Medway towns to Dover.

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After making my way back
through Kent,

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my journey will take me
along the Sussex coast

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and end
in the cathedral town of Chichester.

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This East Anglian leg begins
in the ancient city of Norwich,

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burrows southwest deep
into Thetford's rabbit warrens,

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before turning northwest

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to finish in
the flinty countryside of Brandon.

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My first stop will be Norwich,

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which, Bradshaw's tells me,
"is an old cathedral town

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"and the capital of Norfolk,

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"agreeably situated
on the banks of the Wensum.

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"The prospect of the city
is imposing and beautiful."

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Until the arrival
of the railways in the 1840s

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the city depended on its river

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for communication
with the outside world,

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and even now it has that feeling
of being the end of the line,

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for worse and better.

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Today I am greeted by
this grand terminus, built in 1886,

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but when the railways
first arrived in the city, in 1844,

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the station was far more modest,

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providing only
a single-track line to the coast.

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The rest of the country
remained inaccessible by train
until the completion

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of this impressive swing bridge
over the River Wensum in 1845.

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The line was extended down to London

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opening the door to trade,

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and to fashionable
tourists from the capital.

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The first stop recommended
in my Bradshaw's guide

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is a marvel
of medieval architecture.

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Bradshaw's comments that
"the lofty spire

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"of Norwich Cathedral gives it
the air of great magnificence."

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Lofty, yes, at 315 feet. Begun
shortly after the Norman conquest,

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completed within a century.

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Imagine how important Norwich
must have been in those days

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that they built here

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a structure the like of which
most people had never seen.

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Built on the lucrative wool trade

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Norwich was so important
in medieval times

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that it ranked
as England's second city.

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It remains East Anglia's
largest city.

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I'll start my visit by testing
locals

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on one of the city's
most famous daughters.

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She is immortalised
in every purse and wallet.

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Excuse me!

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I'm not trying to bribe you.

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I've got a £5 note here.

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I wonder if you know who that is?

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Erm... She is Elizabeth Fry.

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Well done!

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Hello there! Hello. So now, who's
this on the back of the £5 note?

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It's Elizabeth Fry.

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And what's she doing here?

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Well, I imagine she's in...

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What was the name of that prison
in London where she went to?

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New... Newgate! That's it!

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Well, I had to help you a bit

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so I'll give you 9.5 out of 10!

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Thank you very much. Bye-bye now!

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Pleasure to meet you.
Thank you. Bye.

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Born in Norwich in 1780
to a wealthy Quaker family,

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Elizabeth Fry
moved to London aged 20.

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There she visited
the notorious Newgate prison

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and encountered
cruel, squalid conditions,

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particularly among women prisoners
and their newborn babies.

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Elizabeth Fry became formidable
in the movement for prison reform,

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and extraordinarily influential
for a woman of her day.

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Indeed, it's a former prison
I'm going to visit next.

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Originally a royal palace
built for William the Conqueror,

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it was used as a gaol from
the 14th until the 19th century.

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"The great Norman keep

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"and the barbican bridge
are incorporated

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"with the county jail built
in 1818 for 200 prisoners."

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So elegant,
I'm guessing that only the cream

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of the criminal fraternity
did their porridge here.

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Nowadays,
the castle is run as a museum.

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I'm meeting Annie Perry,
who knows more about its dark past.

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Annie. Hello, Michael.

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Bradshaw's talks about
parts of the castle

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being incorporated
in the county jail in 1818

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but I suspect there have been
dungeons here long before that.

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There are parts of the castle,

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the original castle keep,
that were used as prison cells

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and dungeons many
hundreds of years before that.

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What sort of conditions in Victorian
times were the prisoners living in?

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Well, you have John Howard,

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who's considered
one of the very early,
if not the first prison reformer,

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visiting all of the gaols and prisons
in England in the 1770s.

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He comes to Norwich castle
on a number of occasions

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and reports that there are
really quite bad conditions here.

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Campaigners like John Howard
and Elizabeth Fry

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championed
the redesign of prisons.

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Their work achieved a gradual change
in attitude towards prisoners

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in the late 18th
and early 19th centuries,

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balancing punishment
with rehabilitation.

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And what kind of a prison
does that give us?

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The prison is based on
a design called a radial gaol,

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there's a central area,
which would be the governor's house,

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which would also include the chapel
and the school room,

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and then different
cells radiating out

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around the edges as well,
with exercise yards in between.

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They're looking to have
individual cells for prisoners

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to be able to separate categories
of prisoners

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and to be able to separate male and
female prisoners.

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Interestingly,

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people would commit petty offences

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to actually get put into prison

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because the conditions in
the workhouses were actually worse.

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As part of the restructuring
of the gaol,

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a new courthouse was built
at the base of the castle mound

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linked directly to the prison
by an internal tunnel.

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So, Michael, I've brought you here
to our restored court room.

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Judge behind us,
dock just there, I imagine?

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Yes, the dock is just up here.
The judge's seat,

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which is being restored at
the moment, will be here behind us.

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One of the most notorious trials

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brought a local tenant farmer,
James Blomfield Rush,

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into the dock in April 1849.

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It was a Victorian melodrama.

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A sensation reported widely
in the newspapers at the time.

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The public gallery up here
was absolutely packed. The judge,

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Justice Baron Rolfe,
actually sold tickets

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so people could get
a front row seat.

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Accused of?

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A double murder.

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He was supposed to have

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sneaked into a building
called Stanfield Hall

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and shot and killed a father
and son whom he owed money to.

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After conducting
his own protracted defence

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Rush was eventually found guilty
and sentenced to hang.

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Until 1868, hangings
were conducted in public.

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And they were popular.

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Was the hanging a notorious event?

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Extra trains were put on

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to bring people from
Great Yarmouth and London.

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Possibly as many as 20,000 people

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actually witnessed the execution,

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which would take place publicly
at the bottom of the bridge.

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What a lovely day out,
bring a picnic(!)

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Well, if you wanted to
pay for a picnic

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you could go to the Bell Hotel

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and if you rented the very top rooms

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you've got an excellent view
across the crowds of the execution

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and you could pay
for a room and supper.

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The hotels were not alone

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in capitalising
on the public's gory fascination.

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Staffordshire potteries
produced collectable figurines

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of the main characters
in the Rush murders

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to take home
and display on your mantelpiece.

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It's quite puzzling this, isn't it,

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that the Victorians who have this
interest in the connection

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between mental health
and criminality,

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who are prison reformers,
are nonetheless so ghoulish!

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It is that real sense of macabre.

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This fascination with the sinister

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is borne out by a collection
hidden in the castle's dungeon.

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Well, it's horribly damp and dank
and thoroughly creepy down here.

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Well, we are
in the castle's dungeons, Michael.

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And this is what
I wanted you to see.

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This is a replica

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of James Rush's death mask. Wow.

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Prisoners' death masks

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were used to study the contours
of the criminal cranium.

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Known as phrenology,

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this practice examined the lumps
and bumps on the surface of the head

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in the belief that they could reveal
distinctive criminal shapes.

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Sometimes a phrenologist
could be summoned before a wedding

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to check the head of a fiance
for signs of bad character.

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In James Rush's case

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they would be very
interested in this area behind here,

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this is your destructiveness area.

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Your aggressive nature.

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And his is said in his report
to be most pronounced.

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I don't want to be political but he
seems to be somewhat left leaning.

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That would be
from after the execution.

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You are left suspended for one hour

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to make sure there's no chance of you
being revived or resuscitated.

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And this mask, as well,
does show very clearly

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where the rope has cut
directly into neck.

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Isn't that grim?!

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Phrenology has long since been
discredited and is now obsolete.

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The legacy of prison reformers
like Elizabeth Fry

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has been longer lasting.

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While Norwich prison was improved,

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in an area at the foot
of the old Norman castle

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another group was penned in.

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"The Cattle Market,
one of the largest out of London,

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"is held on a piece of ground to the
south of the castle," says Bradshaw.

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It's not there any more,
it's been moved. I'd better hoof it!

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Norfolk has always been
rich farming country.

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Indeed, the considerable wealth
of medieval Norwich

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came from the wool trade,

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and the livestock market

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has always been important
to the city's economy.

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Originally situated
in the city centre,

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it moved to a more spacious plot
two miles away in the 1960s.

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It's one of the few livestock
markets in Britain today.

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David Ball knows more.

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Welcome to Norwich livestock market!

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Thank you!

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My Bradshaw's tells me that Norfolk

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is the biggest agricultural area,
and talks about Norwich

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as being one of the largest
markets outside London.

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I assume there's been a market here
since, really, time immemorial.

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Is that right?

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This one's been here for 50 years.

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The previous site of the market made
extensive use of the trains, did it?

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Without a doubt, especially
to take stock away from market.

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It was a collection centre
for a big area of Norfolk

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but then people came from
all over the country.

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A lot of people came from London
and places like that,

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and into that part of the world,
to take the meat away

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because it was still commutable

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where they could do the journey
and slaughter them the next day.

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Do you think Victorian animal
husbandry was quite good, actually?

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Oh, I think it was,
cos it was on a much smaller scale,

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much more personal, that's what I
think makes a huge difference.

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Things have changed so much

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that a townie like me might ask,
why do you still need a market,

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why do you need people
to come to a single place
to buy their sheep and their cattle?

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00:12:58,780 --> 00:13:01,860
Because it gives them an opportunity
to know where they've come from,

246
00:13:01,860 --> 00:13:04,660
how they're bred,
what they're fed on,

247
00:13:04,660 --> 00:13:06,580
and everything that goes with it.

248
00:13:06,580 --> 00:13:09,860
The present market's fortnightly
cattle auctions

249
00:13:09,860 --> 00:13:13,380
draw scores of famers and traders
from all over the region.

250
00:13:14,980 --> 00:13:17,460
Hundreds of cattle
and calves change hands,

251
00:13:17,460 --> 00:13:20,140
with prime beasts
selling for thousands of pounds.

252
00:13:21,220 --> 00:13:23,340
I'm taking up my position

253
00:13:23,340 --> 00:13:26,580
next to local calf
and cattle salesman Roger Long.

254
00:13:28,260 --> 00:13:30,100
You're buying the tiny calves,
are you?

255
00:13:30,100 --> 00:13:31,340
Yes, the smaller calves.

256
00:13:31,340 --> 00:13:34,380
Something we can take home
and produce into beef.

257
00:13:36,780 --> 00:13:38,220
As the auction gets under way,

258
00:13:38,220 --> 00:13:39,860
I've got little time to watch

259
00:13:39,860 --> 00:13:42,740
and learn the minute bidding
gestures of the experts

260
00:13:42,740 --> 00:13:45,340
before Roger lets me
loose to buy on his behalf.

261
00:13:45,340 --> 00:13:47,580
Selling 126, Hamish.

262
00:13:47,580 --> 00:13:49,820
I'm hoping that a subtle twitch
of the Bradshaw's

263
00:13:49,820 --> 00:13:52,220
will be enough to seal the deal!

264
00:13:53,460 --> 00:13:56,660
5, 10, 15.

265
00:13:58,060 --> 00:13:59,980
Come on, Michael, one more. 25.

266
00:13:59,980 --> 00:14:01,980
Going at 25.

267
00:14:01,980 --> 00:14:03,420
Selling on my left.

268
00:14:03,420 --> 00:14:04,620
325.

269
00:14:04,620 --> 00:14:05,860
Michael Portillo!

270
00:14:05,860 --> 00:14:07,620
325.

271
00:14:07,620 --> 00:14:09,660
That was absolutely thrilling,

272
00:14:09,660 --> 00:14:13,580
my little gestures managed to get me
a beautiful calf.

273
00:14:13,580 --> 00:14:16,420
10, 12, 14.

274
00:14:18,100 --> 00:14:21,260
I'd love to stay
and perfect my bidding technique

275
00:14:21,260 --> 00:14:22,700
but I've a train to catch.

276
00:14:22,700 --> 00:14:25,580
I've retraced my steps
to Norwich Station

277
00:14:25,580 --> 00:14:29,540
and am heading 30 miles west
on the mainline across East Anglia.

278
00:14:30,820 --> 00:14:32,140
Next stop Thetford.

279
00:14:32,140 --> 00:14:34,100
My guidebook tells me

280
00:14:34,100 --> 00:14:37,060
that it was the ancient capital
of East Anglia,

281
00:14:37,060 --> 00:14:40,220
situated on the junction
of the rivers Ouse and Thet.

282
00:14:41,420 --> 00:14:43,820
After a long day
I'm going to rest my head there

283
00:14:43,820 --> 00:14:46,660
in a house that was once thought
fit for a monarch.

284
00:14:56,060 --> 00:14:59,260
Situated a few miles
from Thetford Station,

285
00:14:59,260 --> 00:15:03,060
local landmark Lynford Hall
was commissioned in 1857

286
00:15:03,060 --> 00:15:04,900
by Stephen Lyne Stephens,

287
00:15:04,900 --> 00:15:06,300
a millionaire banker

288
00:15:06,300 --> 00:15:09,020
considered the richest commoner
in England at the time.

289
00:15:10,340 --> 00:15:13,220
Not long after his death in 1860,
it was put up for sale

290
00:15:13,220 --> 00:15:17,860
and its lavish splendour came
to the attention of Queen Victoria.

291
00:15:17,860 --> 00:15:21,420
James Parry of the Breckland Society
will tell me more.

292
00:15:21,420 --> 00:15:22,820
James.

293
00:15:22,820 --> 00:15:25,420
Michael, hello.

294
00:15:25,420 --> 00:15:27,140
I find you in semi-regal splendour!

295
00:15:27,140 --> 00:15:30,340
What exactly is the connection
between Lynford Hall
and the royal family?

296
00:15:30,340 --> 00:15:33,260
Queen Victoria
was becoming increasingly concerned

297
00:15:33,260 --> 00:15:35,820
by the behaviour of her son,
the Prince of Wales.

298
00:15:35,820 --> 00:15:37,860
There had already been
several scandals.

299
00:15:37,860 --> 00:15:40,700
He was turning into
a serial philanderer

300
00:15:40,700 --> 00:15:42,620
and she and Prince Albert decided

301
00:15:42,620 --> 00:15:45,620
that they had to get some
stability into his life.

302
00:15:45,620 --> 00:15:48,220
And they thought
that by buying a country estate

303
00:15:48,220 --> 00:15:51,060
they could perhaps have
a little bit more control over him,

304
00:15:51,060 --> 00:15:53,980
keep him there a little bit,
spend more family time together.

305
00:15:55,620 --> 00:15:58,580
Located on one of the best
shooting estates in East Anglia

306
00:15:58,580 --> 00:16:02,620
Lynford Hall was a serious
contender for royal ownership.

307
00:16:02,620 --> 00:16:05,100
A state-of-the-art,
newly-built country estate,

308
00:16:05,100 --> 00:16:07,740
it had 50 bedrooms
with plumbed water,

309
00:16:07,740 --> 00:16:11,180
and modern lighting, thanks to
a pipe from a private gasworks.

310
00:16:12,380 --> 00:16:14,860
It offered a mere 8,000 acres.

311
00:16:14,860 --> 00:16:19,980
Nearby Sandringham had 20,000
and was bought instead.

312
00:16:19,980 --> 00:16:22,740
It has remained
a royal retreat ever since.

313
00:16:22,740 --> 00:16:24,340
If things had turned out
differently,

314
00:16:24,340 --> 00:16:26,620
this could have been the place
that the royal family

315
00:16:26,620 --> 00:16:29,460
were sitting down for Christmas
lunch, rather than Sandringham.

316
00:16:29,460 --> 00:16:34,180
But instead you and I can celebrate
midsummer at Lynford Hall.

317
00:16:34,180 --> 00:16:35,740
Cheers. Cheers.

318
00:16:43,940 --> 00:16:45,540
After a restful night,

319
00:16:45,540 --> 00:16:49,220
I'm striking out further into
Thetford's surrounding countryside.

320
00:16:49,220 --> 00:16:50,780
My Bradshaw's notes that

321
00:16:50,780 --> 00:16:53,500
"the country consists
of a sandy soil

322
00:16:53,500 --> 00:16:57,060
"and is peculiarly salubrious
and pleasant in nature".

323
00:16:57,060 --> 00:16:59,340
Such terrain isn't ideal for farming

324
00:16:59,340 --> 00:17:03,780
but is favoured by a particular
breed of burrowing creature.

325
00:17:03,780 --> 00:17:06,820
Anne Mason of the Breckland Society

326
00:17:06,820 --> 00:17:09,060
will tell me how
the landscape of "the Brecks"

327
00:17:09,060 --> 00:17:12,100
was ideal for
a form of animal husbandry.

328
00:17:12,100 --> 00:17:13,940
Hello. Hello.

329
00:17:13,940 --> 00:17:16,620
So, what exactly is this building?

330
00:17:16,620 --> 00:17:19,860
Well, it's known
as Thetford Warren Lodge

331
00:17:19,860 --> 00:17:22,060
and it was inhabited
by a rabbit warrener.

332
00:17:22,060 --> 00:17:26,180
And it's the symbol of
a 600-year-old industry of warrening

333
00:17:26,180 --> 00:17:28,980
which once dominated
this area of East Anglia.

334
00:17:28,980 --> 00:17:31,740
And why is it built
to look like a castle?

335
00:17:31,740 --> 00:17:35,500
It was built primarily
as a defence against poachers,

336
00:17:35,500 --> 00:17:38,900
because rabbits were highly prized
luxury items in the Middle Ages.

337
00:17:40,140 --> 00:17:42,300
It was the job
of a medieval warrener

338
00:17:42,300 --> 00:17:45,180
to nurture, protect
and trap rabbits.

339
00:17:45,180 --> 00:17:47,060
He was in effect a rabbit farmer.

340
00:17:48,340 --> 00:17:50,940
Why were rabbits so valuable then?

341
00:17:50,940 --> 00:17:53,300
Because they were
a source of fresh meat in the winter

342
00:17:53,300 --> 00:17:59,860
and also because their fur
was used for robes and cloaks.

343
00:17:59,860 --> 00:18:02,100
We know that Henry VII
actually had a nightshirt

344
00:18:02,100 --> 00:18:04,300
that was lined
with black rabbit fur.

345
00:18:04,300 --> 00:18:07,380
When did the rabbit business
reach its peak, do you think?

346
00:18:07,380 --> 00:18:10,020
Oh, it was actually
linked to the railways.

347
00:18:10,020 --> 00:18:13,620
Once the railway
came to Thetford in 1846

348
00:18:13,620 --> 00:18:18,140
it provided very quick
and easy transport up to London.

349
00:18:18,140 --> 00:18:22,220
And, of course, the meat could be
then transported very freshly.

350
00:18:22,220 --> 00:18:24,940
It was actually sold
at Leadenhall market

351
00:18:24,940 --> 00:18:29,140
and it was really in response
to growing demand
from centres of population,

352
00:18:29,140 --> 00:18:32,940
such as London, which had expanded
so much in the 19th century.

353
00:18:32,940 --> 00:18:34,900
On this warren of Thetford,

354
00:18:34,900 --> 00:18:37,820
from the 1850s onwards

355
00:18:37,820 --> 00:18:42,300
the average annual cull
was 28,800 rabbits.

356
00:18:43,460 --> 00:18:47,380
Rabbit meat became so popular that
Mrs Beeton's famous Victorian book

357
00:18:47,380 --> 00:18:49,740
of household management

358
00:18:49,740 --> 00:18:52,300
provided more than 20 recipes
for its preparation.

359
00:18:52,300 --> 00:18:55,580
And the demand for rabbit fur
in Victorian England

360
00:18:55,580 --> 00:18:57,780
was met by two large factories

361
00:18:57,780 --> 00:19:01,100
employing 200 people
in nearby Brandon.

362
00:19:01,100 --> 00:19:03,020
It was a significant
source of employment,

363
00:19:03,020 --> 00:19:04,260
with much of the community

364
00:19:04,260 --> 00:19:07,300
involved in processing thousands
of rabbit skins

365
00:19:07,300 --> 00:19:10,140
for the fur and
felt-making industries.

366
00:19:10,140 --> 00:19:13,980
So extensive and regular was
that rabbit trade

367
00:19:13,980 --> 00:19:16,420
that the early morning trains
going up to London

368
00:19:16,420 --> 00:19:19,700
carrying the rabbits were known
locally as bunny trains.

369
00:19:20,900 --> 00:19:23,460
In the trade's heyday
in the mid-19th century,

370
00:19:23,460 --> 00:19:26,780
bunny trains transported 30,000
carcases a year

371
00:19:26,780 --> 00:19:28,180
to the London markets,

372
00:19:28,180 --> 00:19:31,020
where they were sold
by the hundredweight.

373
00:19:31,020 --> 00:19:33,700
If you had your warren
near a train station,

374
00:19:33,700 --> 00:19:36,380
farming rabbits
was a lucrative business.

375
00:19:36,380 --> 00:19:39,620
With the passing
of the Ground Game Act in the 1880s,

376
00:19:39,620 --> 00:19:41,820
anyone was allowed
to hunt wild rabbits

377
00:19:41,820 --> 00:19:44,540
and the industry
went into steady decline.

378
00:19:45,660 --> 00:19:46,900
Has it died out completely?

379
00:19:46,900 --> 00:19:48,140
Not entirely, no.

380
00:19:48,140 --> 00:19:51,140
And, in fact, I think
it's seen a revival.

381
00:19:51,140 --> 00:19:53,580
With so much emphasis
on using local produce

382
00:19:53,580 --> 00:19:55,620
and naturally-produced produce,

383
00:19:55,620 --> 00:19:58,700
I think we are seeing more people
eating rabbit meat.

384
00:20:01,340 --> 00:20:04,980
The bunny trains and the rabbit fur
trade have long since gone,

385
00:20:04,980 --> 00:20:07,140
but a few warreners survive.

386
00:20:07,140 --> 00:20:10,420
With lean, healthy and sustainable
rabbit meat back on the menu,

387
00:20:10,420 --> 00:20:13,740
there's a business in bunnies again.

388
00:20:13,740 --> 00:20:16,140
Andy Simpson continues
the tradition of the warrener.

389
00:20:16,140 --> 00:20:17,980
He learned his trade from his father

390
00:20:17,980 --> 00:20:20,780
and is passing it on to his son Tim.

391
00:20:20,780 --> 00:20:24,460
This ancient form
of animal husbandry
is important for another reason,

392
00:20:24,460 --> 00:20:29,100
conservation of the natural
environment and pest control.

393
00:20:29,100 --> 00:20:33,020
What would happen if you were not
controlling the rabbit population?

394
00:20:33,020 --> 00:20:36,700
They'd destroy the countryside
for cattle farmers, sheep farmers.

395
00:20:36,700 --> 00:20:38,740
The rabbits are
undermining the ground,

396
00:20:38,740 --> 00:20:40,860
they're tunnelling
underneath all the time.

397
00:20:40,860 --> 00:20:42,940
The hole that you see,
it's a bit like an iceberg.

398
00:20:42,940 --> 00:20:43,780
The hole is the tip of it,

399
00:20:43,780 --> 00:20:46,380
the warren is expansive underneath.

400
00:20:46,380 --> 00:20:49,100
Many years ago this park would have
been full of cattle and sheep

401
00:20:49,100 --> 00:20:51,500
and the estate ponies.

402
00:20:51,500 --> 00:20:54,380
There's none of them here.
They daren't put them in here now

403
00:20:54,380 --> 00:20:57,740
because the cattle and ponies
break their legs
walking over the rabbit warrens.

404
00:20:57,740 --> 00:21:02,060
Now, I've been ignoring up
until now your box of tricks.

405
00:21:02,060 --> 00:21:04,540
We've got a few little noses
coming out of there.

406
00:21:04,540 --> 00:21:06,300
Yep, I've got a selection of these.

407
00:21:06,300 --> 00:21:08,740
Molly's my main working bitch.

408
00:21:08,740 --> 00:21:11,300
This is a cross
between a ferret and pole cat.

409
00:21:11,300 --> 00:21:12,420
This won't bite.

410
00:21:12,420 --> 00:21:14,860
Are you sure? Yep.

411
00:21:14,860 --> 00:21:17,460
You are a sweet creature.

412
00:21:17,460 --> 00:21:20,300
Where this one was
a domesticated ferret,

413
00:21:20,300 --> 00:21:23,780
these are captured wild polecats.

414
00:21:23,780 --> 00:21:27,060
That's a little boy one.

415
00:21:27,060 --> 00:21:28,780
Do they go rabbiting yet?

416
00:21:28,780 --> 00:21:30,060
Not yet, no.

417
00:21:30,060 --> 00:21:31,260
Ooh!

418
00:21:33,660 --> 00:21:34,940
Got me!

419
00:21:37,060 --> 00:21:39,620
You've got a claim to fame,
you bit a politician!

420
00:21:43,140 --> 00:21:45,660
With the two pesky polecats
back in their cage,

421
00:21:45,660 --> 00:21:47,780
it's time for me
to hop back to Thetford Station

422
00:21:47,780 --> 00:21:51,780
where I'm going to board
my next train northwest to Brandon.

423
00:21:58,500 --> 00:22:01,300
This train is going to take me
out of Norfolk

424
00:22:01,300 --> 00:22:05,020
over the border into Suffolk
and the town of Brandon.

425
00:22:05,020 --> 00:22:06,220
Bradhaw's tells me that,

426
00:22:06,220 --> 00:22:09,780
"this place formerly supplied
the government with gun flints."

427
00:22:09,780 --> 00:22:12,340
Enough to spark anybody's interest.

428
00:22:18,020 --> 00:22:22,700
Immediately I can see how
important flint is to this area.

429
00:22:22,700 --> 00:22:25,140
Even the buildings here
are faced with the stone.

430
00:22:25,140 --> 00:22:26,500
This place is blessed

431
00:22:26,500 --> 00:22:28,860
with some of
the best quality flint in Britain

432
00:22:28,860 --> 00:22:33,020
and flint was key to the local
economy for a very long time.

433
00:22:35,420 --> 00:22:37,180
I've come to Grime's Graves,

434
00:22:37,180 --> 00:22:40,220
an ancient flint mine
just outside Brandon.

435
00:22:40,220 --> 00:22:43,420
I'd like to find out how old
the area's flint business is,

436
00:22:43,420 --> 00:22:45,660
from archaeologist Dave Field.

437
00:22:45,660 --> 00:22:48,380
Hello, Dave!
Hello, Michael, pleased to meet you.

438
00:22:48,380 --> 00:22:49,700
My Bradshaw's tells me

439
00:22:49,700 --> 00:22:52,740
that Brandon supplied gunflints to
the government. Tell me about that.

440
00:22:52,740 --> 00:22:54,540
Yes, that's very true.

441
00:22:54,540 --> 00:22:57,620
In particular
during the Napoleonic wars,

442
00:22:57,620 --> 00:23:00,700
an enormous quantity
of gunflints were shipped out.

443
00:23:00,700 --> 00:23:04,140
There are stories of something like
a million per month at one time.

444
00:23:04,140 --> 00:23:06,260
There was a particularly
good seam of flint here.

445
00:23:06,260 --> 00:23:08,420
Jet black, very few imperfections.

446
00:23:08,420 --> 00:23:12,940
Exceedingly good sparkability,
and sparking properties

447
00:23:12,940 --> 00:23:15,300
were of primary importance
for musketry.

448
00:23:15,300 --> 00:23:17,980
Particularly for military purposes.

449
00:23:17,980 --> 00:23:20,140
You can imagine
at the battle of Waterloo,

450
00:23:20,140 --> 00:23:22,900
you wouldn't want your musket
to misfire too many times!

451
00:23:22,900 --> 00:23:25,740
Was it ever possible
to mass-produce gunflints?

452
00:23:25,740 --> 00:23:27,580
No, this was a cottage industry.

453
00:23:27,580 --> 00:23:28,780
The Brandon knappers

454
00:23:28,780 --> 00:23:31,140
had something like a five
or six year apprenticeship

455
00:23:31,140 --> 00:23:33,660
before they could be set loose
and set up their own business.

456
00:23:33,660 --> 00:23:38,180
We're in an area which bears
the scars of human activity,

457
00:23:38,180 --> 00:23:41,300
but I assume this is nothing to do
with the Napoleonic era, is it?

458
00:23:41,300 --> 00:23:43,740
No, no, no, this is all prehistoric.

459
00:23:43,740 --> 00:23:47,540
The Neolithic miners got here
long before the gunflint miners.

460
00:23:48,820 --> 00:23:52,340
It seems that flint knapping is
a skill that's as old as the hills.

461
00:23:52,340 --> 00:23:55,860
This site has now been dated
to over 4,000 years ago.

462
00:23:55,860 --> 00:24:00,580
Grime's Graves contains traces
of 400 Neolithic mineshafts

463
00:24:00,580 --> 00:24:05,060
and is one of the most important
prehistoric sites in Britain.

464
00:24:05,060 --> 00:24:06,980
What was Neolithic man using it for?

465
00:24:06,980 --> 00:24:09,940
They were using it
for a variety of things.

466
00:24:09,940 --> 00:24:13,180
It's reckoned that enough flint
was extracted from here

467
00:24:13,180 --> 00:24:15,020
in the Neolithic period

468
00:24:15,020 --> 00:24:17,260
to make something
like eight million stone axes.

469
00:24:17,260 --> 00:24:19,300
Enormous quantities
were shipped out.

470
00:24:19,300 --> 00:24:22,100
Much more so in the Neolithic period
than in the gunflint era.

471
00:24:22,100 --> 00:24:24,580
I'm going to take a closer look.

472
00:24:28,220 --> 00:24:29,420
You get a real sense

473
00:24:29,420 --> 00:24:32,460
of descending into the bowels
of the earth, don't you?

474
00:24:32,460 --> 00:24:35,700
The greenery peters out, the rock
begins, temperature falls.

475
00:24:35,700 --> 00:24:38,140
It does indeed.
It's pretty constant down here.

476
00:24:38,140 --> 00:24:42,900
And it's a real labyrinth. All
these little galleries interconnect.

477
00:24:42,900 --> 00:24:46,180
Theoretically you could work your way
right across the site underground.

478
00:24:46,180 --> 00:24:51,140
You can see the hollows here where
a large nodule has been extracted.

479
00:24:51,140 --> 00:24:52,380
The idea, of course,

480
00:24:52,380 --> 00:24:56,380
was to extract every available piece
of good black flint

481
00:24:56,380 --> 00:24:59,780
that you could do
without the roof falling in.

482
00:24:59,780 --> 00:25:02,140
So, how did these Neolithic mines
come to light,

483
00:25:02,140 --> 00:25:03,860
if that's the right expression?

484
00:25:03,860 --> 00:25:06,220
Well, it was following

485
00:25:06,220 --> 00:25:09,180
the period of publication
of Darwin's Origin Of Species.

486
00:25:09,180 --> 00:25:11,220
There was a new feeling
of inquiry about.

487
00:25:11,220 --> 00:25:13,060
And it was during that period

488
00:25:13,060 --> 00:25:15,580
that Canon William Greenwell
came to the site

489
00:25:15,580 --> 00:25:17,620
and he dug one of the shafts

490
00:25:17,620 --> 00:25:20,300
and found that it went down
something like 12 metres.

491
00:25:20,300 --> 00:25:22,820
And he found the seam
of black flint

492
00:25:22,820 --> 00:25:26,180
and it was quite clear then
what was going on.

493
00:25:26,180 --> 00:25:29,580
That they were actually mining
this material in prehistory.

494
00:25:29,580 --> 00:25:32,620
And he used some of the gunflint
miners from Brandon

495
00:25:32,620 --> 00:25:34,700
to help him in that excavation.

496
00:25:34,700 --> 00:25:40,500
So the gunflint miners
had a big hand in the discovery
of the prehistoric mining.

497
00:25:40,500 --> 00:25:43,060
Well, I'd like to find out more
about flint knapping

498
00:25:43,060 --> 00:25:46,620
but for that I must return
to the surface. Yes, let's do.

499
00:25:49,540 --> 00:25:51,300
The flint knapping workshops

500
00:25:51,300 --> 00:25:57,020
that were so busy in Brandon in
the early 19th century are no more,

501
00:25:57,020 --> 00:26:00,740
but today, some enthusiasts
have revived the craft.

502
00:26:01,860 --> 00:26:06,340
Will Lord provides traditional
flints for flintlock guns

503
00:26:06,340 --> 00:26:10,580
used by historical re-enactment
groups across the globe.

504
00:26:10,580 --> 00:26:12,220
Hello, Will!

505
00:26:12,220 --> 00:26:14,660
Hello, Michael. Nice to meet you.

506
00:26:14,660 --> 00:26:15,860
Good to see you.

507
00:26:15,860 --> 00:26:20,140
I had no idea that flint
would be such a big rock!

508
00:26:20,140 --> 00:26:21,580
Yeah, we're really lucky,

509
00:26:21,580 --> 00:26:25,220
we've got some of the best geology
of flint in Britain around here.

510
00:26:25,220 --> 00:26:28,460
What is it you are trying to make?
What's the end product?

511
00:26:28,460 --> 00:26:30,460
This is the final product.

512
00:26:30,460 --> 00:26:32,140
And it has to be very precise,
does it?

513
00:26:32,140 --> 00:26:34,340
I notice not only that
it's very square

514
00:26:34,340 --> 00:26:36,220
but you've shaved off
one side of it here.

515
00:26:36,220 --> 00:26:38,220
Yeah, that chamfer there
is really important.

516
00:26:38,220 --> 00:26:41,500
It doesn't want to be too weak
at the end of its journey.

517
00:26:41,500 --> 00:26:44,820
First a suitable stone
has to be selected

518
00:26:44,820 --> 00:26:47,180
and quartered into a workable size.

519
00:26:50,740 --> 00:26:54,660
Look at that, we have made
an excellent choice in stone.

520
00:26:54,660 --> 00:26:57,300
Look at this, pure black silica.

521
00:26:57,300 --> 00:26:59,220
Isn't that absolutely glorious?!

522
00:26:59,220 --> 00:27:02,780
Then a workable-sized flake
has to be created

523
00:27:02,780 --> 00:27:05,260
and Will is letting me have a bash.

524
00:27:07,260 --> 00:27:08,700
Just lean it in a little bit.

525
00:27:10,500 --> 00:27:12,660
It's all good.
Just touch it on the flint.

526
00:27:12,660 --> 00:27:14,380
Perfect.

527
00:27:14,380 --> 00:27:15,860
Could you make a flint out of that?

528
00:27:15,860 --> 00:27:17,220
Yeah, that's great!

529
00:27:17,220 --> 00:27:19,700
Only now can the flake be honed

530
00:27:19,700 --> 00:27:22,740
to the correct shape and size
for a gunflint.

531
00:27:22,740 --> 00:27:24,540
Got a bit of a shape there.

532
00:27:24,540 --> 00:27:25,980
You have.

533
00:27:25,980 --> 00:27:28,380
But it doesn't really,
let's face it...

534
00:27:28,380 --> 00:27:31,420
No, look at that,
you've got a really good
serviceable gunflint there!

535
00:27:31,420 --> 00:27:32,460
Well done. Thank you.

536
00:27:33,700 --> 00:27:35,260
I'm no expert yet,

537
00:27:35,260 --> 00:27:38,940
but I am glad that I've had a go
at man's oldest profession.

538
00:27:40,620 --> 00:27:43,660
When Norwich acquired
its cathedral and castle

539
00:27:43,660 --> 00:27:46,900
it was one of this country's
most important cities,

540
00:27:46,900 --> 00:27:50,940
using the river and the sea
to export wool to the continent.

541
00:27:50,940 --> 00:27:54,060
When railways became
the main mode of transport,

542
00:27:54,060 --> 00:27:58,300
Norfolk was left somewhat isolated
from the capital, London.

543
00:27:58,300 --> 00:28:02,540
In such tranquillity,
rabbit warrening
and flint knapping could survive,

544
00:28:02,540 --> 00:28:04,780
unaffected
by the Industrial Revolution

545
00:28:04,780 --> 00:28:06,660
transforming the rest of Britain.

546
00:28:11,460 --> 00:28:12,580
On the next leg

547
00:28:12,580 --> 00:28:16,140
I experience 19th-century
cutting edge technology.

548
00:28:16,140 --> 00:28:18,780
And there it goes.

549
00:28:18,780 --> 00:28:21,700
And the extraordinary thing is
that a Victorian would recognise

550
00:28:21,700 --> 00:28:23,820
that because it was
made in much the same way.

551
00:28:25,140 --> 00:28:28,300
I shell out for seafood
near Mersea Island.

552
00:28:28,300 --> 00:28:31,580
This is the sort of oyster that once
cleaned up could appear on my plate?

553
00:28:31,580 --> 00:28:32,780
It certainly is, yes.

554
00:28:32,780 --> 00:28:36,700
And I'm tainted in an Essex orchard.

555
00:28:36,700 --> 00:28:39,060
That's where the phrase
caught red-handed comes from.

556
00:28:39,060 --> 00:28:41,100
Indelible stain of crime.