1 00:00:04,875 --> 00:00:09,115 In 1840, one man transformed travel in Britain. 2 00:00:09,115 --> 00:00:12,115 His name was George Bradshaw 3 00:00:12,115 --> 00:00:16,035 and his railway guides inspired the Victorians to take to the tracks. 4 00:00:17,115 --> 00:00:19,915 Stop by stop, he told them where to go, 5 00:00:19,915 --> 00:00:23,795 what to see and where to stay. 6 00:00:23,795 --> 00:00:29,075 And now, 170 years later, I'm aboard for a series of rail adventures 7 00:00:29,075 --> 00:00:33,755 across the United Kingdom to see what of Bradshaw's Britain remains. 8 00:00:54,395 --> 00:00:56,995 My journey continues through Suffolk. 9 00:00:56,995 --> 00:01:01,155 This flat terrain produces a big, beautiful dome of sky 10 00:01:01,155 --> 00:01:03,235 and beneath it the green land 11 00:01:03,235 --> 00:01:06,035 and the rivers that run between it are rich in food. 12 00:01:10,315 --> 00:01:15,155 'On this leg, I discover that 19th century engineering was pretty sharp.' 13 00:01:15,155 --> 00:01:17,635 And there it goes. 14 00:01:17,635 --> 00:01:21,475 The extraordinary thing is a Victorian would recognise that 15 00:01:21,475 --> 00:01:24,515 because it was made in much the same way. Absolutely. 16 00:01:24,515 --> 00:01:28,355 'Shell out for seafood near Mersey Island.' 17 00:01:28,355 --> 00:01:32,515 Enormous. So this is the sort of oyster that once cleaned up, 18 00:01:32,515 --> 00:01:34,875 could appear on my plate. Certainly is, yeah. 19 00:01:34,875 --> 00:01:37,115 'And I'm tainted in an Essex orchard.' 20 00:01:37,115 --> 00:01:40,155 That's where the phrase "caught red-handed" came from. 21 00:01:40,155 --> 00:01:42,395 Indelible stain of crime. 22 00:01:47,275 --> 00:01:49,715 My journey, which began in Norwich, 23 00:01:49,715 --> 00:01:52,755 now continues south-west through Suffolk, 24 00:01:52,755 --> 00:01:55,195 past Chelmsford in Essex, 25 00:01:55,195 --> 00:01:57,435 then across the Thames at Tilbury, 26 00:01:57,435 --> 00:02:01,275 through the Medway towns of Kent and its largest port, Dover, 27 00:02:01,275 --> 00:02:05,075 before moving west to Tunbridge, down to the Sussex coast 28 00:02:05,075 --> 00:02:07,995 and ending in the cathedral city of Chichester. 29 00:02:09,915 --> 00:02:12,675 Today's leg begins in Ipswich, 30 00:02:12,675 --> 00:02:16,635 moves south-west to crack open the Essex delights of Colchester 31 00:02:16,635 --> 00:02:20,355 and Witham, and picks up radio waves in Chelmsford. 32 00:02:29,235 --> 00:02:34,155 Bradshaw's tells me that Suffolk is one of the best cultivated districts in England, 33 00:02:34,155 --> 00:02:36,835 almost exclusively a farming county, 34 00:02:36,835 --> 00:02:40,355 being conducted upon the most improved principles. 35 00:02:40,355 --> 00:02:42,675 There was innovation in agriculture 36 00:02:42,675 --> 00:02:45,035 long before the industrial revolution 37 00:02:45,035 --> 00:02:47,795 and East Anglia was in the forefront. 38 00:02:49,875 --> 00:02:52,275 Set on the bank of the Orwell estuary, 39 00:02:52,275 --> 00:02:54,915 Ipswich - one of England's oldest towns - 40 00:02:54,915 --> 00:02:58,875 has been an important trading centre since the Saxons settled here. 41 00:02:59,835 --> 00:03:03,235 It became one of the richest ports in medieval England 42 00:03:03,235 --> 00:03:05,355 and thrived on shipbuilding. 43 00:03:07,555 --> 00:03:10,715 When the railways arrived in Ipswich in 1846, 44 00:03:10,715 --> 00:03:14,035 they ran to the new docks, from where the town's iron goods 45 00:03:14,035 --> 00:03:16,835 and farm machinery could be moved easily 46 00:03:16,835 --> 00:03:18,795 to customers around the country. 47 00:03:23,475 --> 00:03:27,115 Here I am at Ipswich, which Bradshaw's tells me is a port, 48 00:03:27,115 --> 00:03:29,715 borough town and capital of Suffolk. 49 00:03:29,715 --> 00:03:33,115 Then it tells me that Ransomes & Sims 50 00:03:33,115 --> 00:03:35,755 machine and implement works cover 14 acres. 51 00:03:38,435 --> 00:03:41,635 Could that be instrumental in the agricultural improvement 52 00:03:41,635 --> 00:03:44,075 that Bradshaw's tells me about? 53 00:03:45,515 --> 00:03:50,595 Founded in 1785 by Robert Ransome during the agrarian revolution, 54 00:03:50,595 --> 00:03:54,715 Ransomes of Ipswich has been making agricultural equipment ever since. 55 00:03:56,795 --> 00:03:59,395 The company was originally situated at the docks, 56 00:03:59,395 --> 00:04:02,435 where it also built its own railway sidings. 57 00:04:02,435 --> 00:04:05,995 I'm keen to find out just how important Ransomes was 58 00:04:05,995 --> 00:04:08,755 to the economy of Ipswich in Bradshaw's day. 59 00:04:10,635 --> 00:04:14,155 Richard Comely is the company's marketing director. 60 00:04:14,155 --> 00:04:17,955 Hello Michael, welcome. Very good to see you. Thank you. 61 00:04:17,955 --> 00:04:22,955 Bradshaw's tells me that Ransomes & Sims covered an area of 14 acres. 62 00:04:22,955 --> 00:04:26,755 That's in 1864 - it must have been enormous. 63 00:04:26,755 --> 00:04:30,955 Some 3,500 people were employed here, 64 00:04:30,955 --> 00:04:35,875 making ploughs, mowing machinery, all kinds of agricultural equipment. 65 00:04:35,875 --> 00:04:42,435 In 1832, Ransomes won the licence to manufacture a brand new product. 66 00:04:43,595 --> 00:04:45,995 Engineer Edwin Budding's invention, 67 00:04:45,995 --> 00:04:48,875 based on the napping of cloth in cotton mills, 68 00:04:48,875 --> 00:04:53,315 would revolutionise 19th century gardening. 69 00:04:53,315 --> 00:04:56,195 Until such time as the mower came along, 70 00:04:56,195 --> 00:04:58,835 people were cutting grass with scythes, 71 00:04:58,835 --> 00:05:01,715 and obviously, that had limitations, especially with short grass. 72 00:05:01,715 --> 00:05:04,475 What's the breakthrough about the lawn mower? 73 00:05:04,475 --> 00:05:09,195 The principle is we have these rotating blades that are in a spiral 74 00:05:09,195 --> 00:05:13,075 and we have this bed knife, which is the stationary part 75 00:05:13,075 --> 00:05:15,475 that the rotating blades rotate against. 76 00:05:15,475 --> 00:05:20,435 The reason they're in a spiral is to feed the power in more evenly 77 00:05:20,435 --> 00:05:23,795 and to eliminate the kind of chopping motion 78 00:05:23,795 --> 00:05:27,475 you would get if the blades were all in straight lines. 79 00:05:27,475 --> 00:05:29,915 This is fundamentally what Budding invented. 80 00:05:29,915 --> 00:05:32,195 Actually, that's a fantastic thought isn't it? 81 00:05:32,195 --> 00:05:36,275 That a fellow came up with this idea 180 years ago 82 00:05:36,275 --> 00:05:40,275 and really, it's recognisable to this day. Exactly. 83 00:05:40,275 --> 00:05:45,355 In 1867 the company produced more than 1,000 lawn mowers 84 00:05:45,355 --> 00:05:49,595 and Royal recognition followed when Queen Victoria acquired one 85 00:05:49,595 --> 00:05:52,435 to tend the lawns of her beloved Balmoral. 86 00:05:58,755 --> 00:06:01,515 Might I have a go at that? Absolutely. 87 00:06:01,515 --> 00:06:03,675 Give it a whirl. Thank you very much. 88 00:06:05,595 --> 00:06:08,915 Let it catch the second roller as you go through, 89 00:06:08,915 --> 00:06:12,155 press the button there. Look at that! Curving away. 90 00:06:17,235 --> 00:06:19,355 That's basically what you've got. 91 00:06:19,355 --> 00:06:21,835 Isn't that beautiful? It's formed a spiral. 92 00:06:23,515 --> 00:06:25,515 And there is goes. 93 00:06:25,515 --> 00:06:29,195 And the extraordinary thing is that a Victorian would recognize that 94 00:06:29,195 --> 00:06:33,075 because it was made in much the same way. Absolutely. 95 00:06:33,075 --> 00:06:36,595 In the 21st century, Budding's blades are fitted to mowers 96 00:06:36,595 --> 00:06:40,395 that cut sports fields all over the world. 97 00:06:40,395 --> 00:06:44,275 The factory is unexpectedly surrounded by top quality grass 98 00:06:44,275 --> 00:06:48,795 and each model has to meet green keeper Jamie Hughes' standards. 99 00:06:50,755 --> 00:06:54,355 This is a golf course attached to a factory. It is. 100 00:06:54,355 --> 00:06:56,835 It's unusual to come onto an industrial estate 101 00:06:56,835 --> 00:06:58,675 and see a golf course. 102 00:06:58,675 --> 00:07:02,115 Gosh, you've got machinery old and new here. This is what? 103 00:07:02,115 --> 00:07:04,555 We've got the Budding here, the original. 104 00:07:04,555 --> 00:07:08,075 This is the original? Can I have a go at it? You can. 105 00:07:08,075 --> 00:07:10,155 Do you mind holding my book for a while? 106 00:07:13,915 --> 00:07:15,835 Oh, look at that, it actually works. 107 00:07:15,835 --> 00:07:18,155 It does. It takes a push. A Budding patent. 108 00:07:18,155 --> 00:07:20,395 It really was a budding patent, wasn't it? 109 00:07:20,395 --> 00:07:22,395 Never was a truer word said. 110 00:07:22,395 --> 00:07:24,675 Now, this one I guess is a little bit easier is it? 111 00:07:24,675 --> 00:07:29,155 This one is far easier, yes. And we will have a go on this. 112 00:07:29,155 --> 00:07:32,195 Oh, good. Does that mean me? That means you, exactly. 113 00:07:32,195 --> 00:07:36,235 ENGINE STARTS There we go. These are your arms. 114 00:07:37,635 --> 00:07:40,315 You know, this invention is really cutting edge. 115 00:07:52,195 --> 00:07:54,275 Resuming my journey, 116 00:07:54,275 --> 00:07:57,035 I'm heading south-west on the Great Eastern mainline 117 00:07:57,035 --> 00:07:59,275 out of East Anglia and into Essex. 118 00:08:06,715 --> 00:08:09,995 My next stop will be Colchester, which my Bradshaw's tells me 119 00:08:09,995 --> 00:08:13,995 is formerly an important town of the Romans on the River Colne. 120 00:08:13,995 --> 00:08:17,235 "Silk from umbrellas is made here, and velvet. 121 00:08:17,235 --> 00:08:19,715 "Excellent oysters at Pyefleet. 122 00:08:19,715 --> 00:08:23,155 "I sense there's important history to be prised open here." 123 00:08:34,515 --> 00:08:38,235 Replete with its vast Victorian brick water tower 124 00:08:38,235 --> 00:08:41,075 Colchester, once the Roman capital of Britain, 125 00:08:41,075 --> 00:08:43,235 is a bustling market town, 126 00:08:43,235 --> 00:08:46,355 world-famous for the oysters harvested 127 00:08:46,355 --> 00:08:48,955 from its nearby waters since 48AD. 128 00:08:52,035 --> 00:08:55,595 To find out why its oysters are so renowned, 129 00:08:55,595 --> 00:08:59,555 I'm meeting Graham Larkin on nearby Mersey Island at the confluence 130 00:08:59,555 --> 00:09:02,195 of the Pyefleet Channel and the River Colne. 131 00:09:06,995 --> 00:09:10,515 Why is it that these waters give us such good oysters? 132 00:09:10,515 --> 00:09:13,555 It's a very high salinity area, which means water is very salty, 133 00:09:13,555 --> 00:09:16,195 and we've got all this marvellous agricultural land around us 134 00:09:16,195 --> 00:09:18,155 that's giving us all the nutrients 135 00:09:18,155 --> 00:09:20,715 and all the food being washed into the creek by the rain 136 00:09:20,715 --> 00:09:23,675 and it's being filtered through by the oysters and fattening them up. 137 00:09:23,675 --> 00:09:27,035 Give me an idea of how many oysters you are dredging up? 138 00:09:27,035 --> 00:09:31,235 On a weekly basis between 60,000 and 65,000 rock oysters per week. 139 00:09:31,235 --> 00:09:34,075 That's like a small town's worth of rock oysters every week. 140 00:09:34,075 --> 00:09:36,075 Yeah, it's quite a lot. 141 00:09:38,155 --> 00:09:42,595 Colchester oysters were sought-after delicacies in Roman times. 142 00:09:42,595 --> 00:09:45,835 Archaeological excavations have found evidence that they were 143 00:09:45,835 --> 00:09:50,155 even exported to Rome in nets trailing in the water from the boat. 144 00:09:52,795 --> 00:09:55,755 But by the 19th century, the coming of the railways 145 00:09:55,755 --> 00:09:59,955 made oysters a plentiful and cheap food for the urban poor. 146 00:09:59,955 --> 00:10:05,315 In 1864, more than 700 million oysters were eaten in London alone. 147 00:10:07,155 --> 00:10:10,035 During the Victorian times, the oysters would have been taken 148 00:10:10,035 --> 00:10:12,875 from where they were gathered by boat to Brightlingsea 149 00:10:12,875 --> 00:10:16,395 in barrels and then they would have been transported from Brightlingsea 150 00:10:16,395 --> 00:10:18,955 by rail into London, where they would have been sold 151 00:10:18,955 --> 00:10:20,835 on street corners and in restaurants. 152 00:10:22,435 --> 00:10:25,115 Oysters are in demand again today. 153 00:10:25,115 --> 00:10:28,515 Although no longer cheap, they are harvested in much the same way 154 00:10:28,515 --> 00:10:30,875 as in Bradshaw's day - by dredger. 155 00:10:34,195 --> 00:10:36,635 We're going to tow this dredger just over a walking pace 156 00:10:36,635 --> 00:10:38,915 for about 100 yards, 150 yards, 157 00:10:38,915 --> 00:10:42,075 and then you can haul it up and you can see what we've got. 158 00:10:45,955 --> 00:10:48,195 Here it is. 159 00:10:49,875 --> 00:10:53,555 Oh, we've got some stuff in there, that's great. 160 00:10:53,555 --> 00:10:57,035 We've got some nice oysters here. Enormous. 161 00:10:57,035 --> 00:10:59,435 So this is the sort of oyster that once cleaned up, 162 00:10:59,435 --> 00:11:01,635 could appear on my plate. Certainly is, yeah. 163 00:11:01,635 --> 00:11:04,075 I'd be extremely pleased to find him in a restaurant. 164 00:11:04,075 --> 00:11:06,115 OK, Michael, shall we head back with your haul? 165 00:11:06,115 --> 00:11:08,275 Yes, let's get underway. 166 00:11:09,955 --> 00:11:12,755 'The oyster fishery was granted to the people of Colchester 167 00:11:12,755 --> 00:11:14,915 'by King Richard I.' 168 00:11:14,915 --> 00:11:18,275 Now owned by the council, the fishery is leased to Graham, 169 00:11:18,275 --> 00:11:21,075 which ensures that every one of its rock oysters 170 00:11:21,075 --> 00:11:26,995 is made fit for human consumption by placing it in fresh sea water 171 00:11:26,995 --> 00:11:30,075 for at least 42 hours to flush out impurities. 172 00:11:33,275 --> 00:11:36,755 Is it possible to have one of these lovely fellows? 173 00:11:36,755 --> 00:11:40,195 Of course it is, yeah. So, down the hatch. 174 00:11:44,475 --> 00:11:47,475 Mm, talk about the taste of the sea. 175 00:11:47,475 --> 00:11:51,755 Wonderful burst of flavour. Don't get any fresher than that. 176 00:11:51,755 --> 00:11:55,715 Today you can enjoy one type of oyster or another 177 00:11:55,715 --> 00:11:57,955 throughout the year, but historically 178 00:11:57,955 --> 00:12:02,115 it was thought safest to avoid oysters in the heat of summer 179 00:12:02,115 --> 00:12:06,395 so they were eaten only in months whose name contains the letter "R". 180 00:12:06,395 --> 00:12:09,075 On this balmy Colchester evening, 181 00:12:09,075 --> 00:12:12,035 I want to find out whether such caution persists. 182 00:12:12,035 --> 00:12:14,435 Good evening. Evening. 183 00:12:14,435 --> 00:12:17,355 Evening. I see that you're enjoying a lovely glass of champagne. 184 00:12:17,355 --> 00:12:20,435 Very, very civilised. Lovely summer evening isn't it? 185 00:12:20,435 --> 00:12:23,075 Are you celebrating? No, not really. 186 00:12:23,075 --> 00:12:27,755 Just a daily occurrence. No! Just going out for a drink. 187 00:12:27,755 --> 00:12:30,595 Well, I wondered whether you would have oysters to go with it? 188 00:12:30,595 --> 00:12:34,035 Because Colchester is famous for oysters. 189 00:12:34,035 --> 00:12:37,075 Yeah, but no R in the month, is there? No, no R in the month. 190 00:12:37,075 --> 00:12:39,915 So you don't like having an oyster when there's no R in the month? 191 00:12:39,915 --> 00:12:41,955 You don't eat them then. 192 00:12:41,955 --> 00:12:45,075 You like to have your oysters? I love oysters yes, yes. 193 00:12:45,075 --> 00:12:47,635 So are you longing for there to be an R in the month? 194 00:12:47,635 --> 00:12:51,915 November, October, November, December. Yes, I am. 195 00:12:51,915 --> 00:12:55,355 Tell me, are you a chewer or a swallower? A swallower. 196 00:12:55,355 --> 00:12:57,595 Really? No chewing? No. 197 00:12:57,595 --> 00:13:00,235 Oh. I like to give them a good chew. Oh, no! 198 00:13:00,235 --> 00:13:03,875 Anyway, cheers to you both. Bye-bye. Bye. 199 00:13:08,955 --> 00:13:13,315 Bradshaw's promised me fragments of the ancient town walls. 200 00:13:13,315 --> 00:13:16,475 In fact, they seem to be pretty well preserved. 201 00:13:16,475 --> 00:13:20,755 The pub is called The Hole In The Wall, which a seems a strange way 202 00:13:20,755 --> 00:13:22,995 to refer to such a beautifully formed Roman gate 203 00:13:22,995 --> 00:13:25,075 but anyway, I feel thirsty. 204 00:13:27,035 --> 00:13:29,675 'I'm meeting local historian Patrick Denney 205 00:13:29,675 --> 00:13:33,635 'to find out how a pub came to sit on an ancient ruin.' 206 00:13:33,635 --> 00:13:35,995 Welcome to Colchester. 207 00:13:35,995 --> 00:13:38,835 Thank you very much. The Hole In The Wall pub. 208 00:13:38,835 --> 00:13:42,155 I assume it's a reference to that rather lovely gate out there, is it? 209 00:13:42,155 --> 00:13:44,395 Well, not actually, no. 210 00:13:44,395 --> 00:13:46,755 The name Hole In The Wall dates first 211 00:13:46,755 --> 00:13:49,155 to when the railways arrived in Colchester in 1843. 212 00:13:49,155 --> 00:13:51,995 This pub, and it was called the King's Head in those days, 213 00:13:51,995 --> 00:13:55,075 commanded the best view of the railway in the whole town, really. 214 00:13:55,075 --> 00:13:58,675 So the landlord in this pub smashed a big hole in the Roman wall, 215 00:13:58,675 --> 00:14:02,035 which is just behind us here, extended his pub, 216 00:14:02,035 --> 00:14:06,035 put a window in so his customers could come and have a lovely view of the railway. 217 00:14:06,035 --> 00:14:07,675 He smashed a hole in the Roman wall! 218 00:14:07,675 --> 00:14:09,875 Yeah. Today he would probably be thrown in prison 219 00:14:09,875 --> 00:14:11,995 for picking up a little bit that fell off, 220 00:14:11,995 --> 00:14:13,955 but he got away with it at the time. 221 00:14:13,955 --> 00:14:16,155 And the town's cabbies did a roaring trade. 222 00:14:16,155 --> 00:14:18,035 They'd see a train come in, 223 00:14:18,035 --> 00:14:20,955 they'd leave their pint and off they'd go down to the station. 224 00:14:20,955 --> 00:14:23,515 Well, I have found it a wholly appropriate place 225 00:14:23,515 --> 00:14:25,915 to end the day, cheers. Cheers, Michael. 226 00:14:39,795 --> 00:14:41,875 Looking forward to the day ahead, 227 00:14:41,875 --> 00:14:45,475 this morning I'm travelling west into the Essex countryside. 228 00:14:50,635 --> 00:14:53,995 This first train of the day will take me to Witham. 229 00:14:53,995 --> 00:14:57,435 Bradshaw's draws my attention to Tiptree Heath, 230 00:14:57,435 --> 00:14:59,515 on which is Alderman Mechi's 231 00:14:59,515 --> 00:15:03,115 celebrated model farming establishment. 232 00:15:03,115 --> 00:15:05,635 There is a corner of an English field 233 00:15:05,635 --> 00:15:07,995 that is forever linked to an Italian name. 234 00:15:14,115 --> 00:15:18,155 The station at Witham, a fashionable 18th century spa town, 235 00:15:18,155 --> 00:15:20,195 is close to Tiptree Heath, 236 00:15:20,195 --> 00:15:23,235 a once infertile, marshy corner of Essex. 237 00:15:26,075 --> 00:15:28,115 I'm hoping Ian Thurgood, 238 00:15:28,115 --> 00:15:31,555 joint managing director for the farm's current owners, 239 00:15:31,555 --> 00:15:33,835 will know how a London alderman 240 00:15:33,835 --> 00:15:36,595 turned it into a successful 19th century farm. 241 00:15:36,595 --> 00:15:40,715 Hello, Ian. Hello, Michael. Welcome to Tiptree Hall. 242 00:15:40,715 --> 00:15:44,995 Thank you very much indeed. Who was Alderman Mechi? 243 00:15:44,995 --> 00:15:48,795 Alderman Mechi was the son of an Italian immigrant 244 00:15:48,795 --> 00:15:51,275 who made his fortune in London. 245 00:15:51,275 --> 00:15:53,715 He was a cutler, a silversmith 246 00:15:53,715 --> 00:15:58,395 and very good in commerce, but turned his attention finally 247 00:15:58,395 --> 00:16:00,555 to Tiptree Hall and experimental farming, 248 00:16:00,555 --> 00:16:03,955 trying lots of different things to see if he could make sense 249 00:16:03,955 --> 00:16:06,075 of farming anywhere in the country. 250 00:16:06,075 --> 00:16:09,955 He had a couple of particularly revolutionary ideas at the time. 251 00:16:09,955 --> 00:16:13,475 One was that he would irrigate and drain the soil 252 00:16:13,475 --> 00:16:18,355 across the whole farm and it's said that he laid some 80 to 90 miles 253 00:16:18,355 --> 00:16:21,195 of drains just on Tiptree Hall farm. 254 00:16:21,195 --> 00:16:24,795 The second was he decided that his cattle would stand on grids. 255 00:16:24,795 --> 00:16:27,635 They wouldn't stand in a courtyard in the mud, 256 00:16:27,635 --> 00:16:30,275 so the grids were used and then he was able to collect the manure, 257 00:16:30,275 --> 00:16:34,555 return the manure to the fields and thus improve the soil. 258 00:16:34,555 --> 00:16:36,715 I'm guessing that he was successful 259 00:16:36,715 --> 00:16:39,915 because Bradshaw's refers to it as a model farm establishment, 260 00:16:39,915 --> 00:16:43,315 so people were coming to learn from this, were they? 261 00:16:43,315 --> 00:16:46,155 Mechi was successful, there's no doubt about that. 262 00:16:46,155 --> 00:16:48,835 In fact, it's said that at one point, here at Tiptree Hall, 263 00:16:48,835 --> 00:16:51,955 he was bringing in 600 people from Witham station 264 00:16:51,955 --> 00:16:54,475 coming in for Mechi's Agricultural Day, 265 00:16:54,475 --> 00:16:57,035 where they could look at the wonderful things he was trying. 266 00:16:57,035 --> 00:16:59,715 The first place they'd see steam ploughing, for many of them, 267 00:16:59,715 --> 00:17:01,555 was here at Tiptree Hall. 268 00:17:03,275 --> 00:17:05,635 Mechi's annual agricultural shows 269 00:17:05,635 --> 00:17:10,075 and his modern techniques became so renowned that in 1852 270 00:17:10,075 --> 00:17:13,555 Charles Dickens reported on Tiptree in his weekly journal. 271 00:17:18,995 --> 00:17:21,675 Did his ideas spread far and wide? 272 00:17:21,675 --> 00:17:24,795 Yes they did, through the publication of his book, 273 00:17:24,795 --> 00:17:26,955 How To Farm Profitably. 274 00:17:26,955 --> 00:17:31,275 Bradshaw's calls him Alderman Mechi. Alderman of what? 275 00:17:31,275 --> 00:17:34,035 Mechi was Alderman of the City of London. 276 00:17:34,035 --> 00:17:36,875 He was actually in line to become Lord Mayor of London. 277 00:17:39,115 --> 00:17:41,955 Sadly, Alderman Mechi failed to become Lord Mayor 278 00:17:41,955 --> 00:17:43,955 because he lost his fortune 279 00:17:43,955 --> 00:17:46,435 in the collapse of the Unity Joint Stock Bank, 280 00:17:46,435 --> 00:17:48,475 of which he was a governor. 281 00:17:49,675 --> 00:17:52,635 12 days after being forced to liquidate his affairs, 282 00:17:52,635 --> 00:17:54,795 Mechi died here at Tiptree - 283 00:17:54,795 --> 00:17:58,275 some say of diabetes, others, of a broken heart. 284 00:18:03,075 --> 00:18:06,755 It's a sad story, but not, I think, the end of farming at Tiptree. 285 00:18:06,755 --> 00:18:09,235 That's not the end of the farming story 286 00:18:09,235 --> 00:18:12,715 because eventually Tiptree Hall was bought by the Wilkin family. 287 00:18:12,715 --> 00:18:17,915 Local jam makers Wilkin & Sons bought the Tiptree estate in 1913. 288 00:18:19,235 --> 00:18:21,395 It now covers a square acreage 289 00:18:21,395 --> 00:18:24,035 equivalent to around 300 cricket fields. 290 00:18:25,235 --> 00:18:27,555 We're in the mulberry orchard now. 291 00:18:27,555 --> 00:18:29,955 This is the oldest orchard in the estate, 292 00:18:29,955 --> 00:18:34,355 planted in Victorian times, in fact. Not planted by Alderman Mechi? 293 00:18:34,355 --> 00:18:36,475 Not planted by Alderman Mechi, no. 294 00:18:36,475 --> 00:18:39,515 In fact, just a little while after he'd departed Tiptree. 295 00:18:39,515 --> 00:18:42,955 Hello. Hello. Is it difficult to pick mulberries? 296 00:18:42,955 --> 00:18:46,995 A little bit because you need to be on the ladder and a bit high. 297 00:18:46,995 --> 00:18:51,035 Could I try one, please? Sure. Thank you very much indeed. 298 00:18:51,035 --> 00:18:54,955 Wow, look at you! You're absolutely covered in juice. 299 00:18:54,955 --> 00:18:58,315 Look at these red hands, I look like a scene out of Macbeth. 300 00:18:58,315 --> 00:19:01,595 They say that that's where the phrase "caught red-handed" comes from. 301 00:19:01,595 --> 00:19:04,475 If you come in the mulberry orchard and scrump some mulberries, 302 00:19:04,475 --> 00:19:06,675 you're not really going to get away with it 303 00:19:06,675 --> 00:19:09,115 cos that's going to stay there for three or four days. 304 00:19:09,115 --> 00:19:11,155 The indelible stain of crime. 305 00:19:14,995 --> 00:19:21,275 In 1885, fruit grower Arthur Charles Wilkin had become so frustrated 306 00:19:21,275 --> 00:19:24,635 with the damage his immaculate fruit suffered on the train journey 307 00:19:24,635 --> 00:19:29,195 to market that he turned his attention instead to making jam. 308 00:19:31,435 --> 00:19:34,075 Wilkin & Sons factory now supplies conserves 309 00:19:34,075 --> 00:19:36,955 of many flavours to 60 countries. 310 00:19:36,955 --> 00:19:40,395 But the mulberry, a fruit which, according to Greek mythology, 311 00:19:40,395 --> 00:19:43,675 was turned deep red by the blood of Pyramus and Thisbe, 312 00:19:43,675 --> 00:19:48,515 is the queen of the Tiptree crop and requires special attention. 313 00:19:52,595 --> 00:19:55,315 What is it that you're doing to the fruit? 314 00:19:55,315 --> 00:19:57,955 We're taking out the stalk in the mulberry. 315 00:19:57,955 --> 00:20:00,755 I guess you don't want that in the jam. No, no. 316 00:20:00,755 --> 00:20:04,995 Wow. And this happens to every mulberry that goes into the jam? 317 00:20:04,995 --> 00:20:08,115 Every single one that's picked, the stalk's taken out. 318 00:20:08,115 --> 00:20:11,275 That must make it a really special jam, I think. Yes. 319 00:20:15,955 --> 00:20:18,395 From its humble Victorian beginnings, 320 00:20:18,395 --> 00:20:22,235 the company's 21st century turnover has hit £35 million - 321 00:20:22,235 --> 00:20:26,315 a thoroughly modern sounding revenue 322 00:20:26,315 --> 00:20:29,435 married to an age-old production process. 323 00:20:31,075 --> 00:20:33,915 Like any good kitchen, jam needs a bit of a stir. 324 00:20:33,915 --> 00:20:36,395 The mulberries are being boiled up here. 325 00:20:36,395 --> 00:20:39,115 Do you want to have a go at stirring the mulberries? 326 00:20:39,115 --> 00:20:41,515 May I take your paddle for a moment? Mind your hands. 327 00:20:41,515 --> 00:20:44,115 Mind my hands. Keep your hands as high as possible up there. 328 00:20:44,115 --> 00:20:46,235 That's a good tip. Backwards and forwards. 329 00:20:46,235 --> 00:20:50,275 What temperature is that boiling at? 104. 104? 330 00:20:50,275 --> 00:20:52,275 So you don't want to get too close to that. 331 00:20:52,275 --> 00:20:55,715 Think I'll let you take over, I don't want to spoil the broth. 332 00:20:55,715 --> 00:20:57,195 Thank you. Thank you. 333 00:21:09,355 --> 00:21:11,595 What's happening here, Ian? 334 00:21:11,595 --> 00:21:13,635 The fruit comes up on the conveyor system, 335 00:21:13,635 --> 00:21:16,275 just fruit sugar and some pectin, 336 00:21:16,275 --> 00:21:18,435 if we're going to need to make it set, 337 00:21:18,435 --> 00:21:21,675 close the lid, 15 minutes later we've got some jam ready. 338 00:21:21,675 --> 00:21:24,635 How long before that ends up in a jar? 339 00:21:24,635 --> 00:21:27,795 That will end up in a jar in about 20 or 25 minutes from now. 340 00:21:27,795 --> 00:21:29,715 Amazing. 341 00:21:37,995 --> 00:21:42,075 Come and try some mulberry jam. Mulberry jam, I'd love to. 342 00:21:42,075 --> 00:21:44,475 A lovely scone to put it on. 343 00:21:44,475 --> 00:21:46,955 Lay it on thick. 344 00:21:46,955 --> 00:21:49,595 A little clotted cream. Perfect. 345 00:21:51,675 --> 00:21:55,035 Ideally, I won't get it all over my nose. 346 00:21:59,115 --> 00:22:01,995 Mm. It's exquisite. 347 00:22:01,995 --> 00:22:04,235 You know, I'm so lucky to get to sample things like this 348 00:22:04,235 --> 00:22:06,315 doing the Railway Journeys. 349 00:22:06,315 --> 00:22:08,355 Some people think I'm really jammy. 350 00:22:11,915 --> 00:22:16,715 Fortified by that cream tea, I'll continue my journey south-west 351 00:22:16,715 --> 00:22:19,235 toward this leg's final destination. 352 00:22:31,075 --> 00:22:33,235 For many places in the United Kingdom, 353 00:22:33,235 --> 00:22:35,955 Bradshaw's lists a telegraph station. 354 00:22:35,955 --> 00:22:38,555 In those days, towns were linked by wires 355 00:22:38,555 --> 00:22:42,195 down which people could send telegrams or cables. 356 00:22:42,195 --> 00:22:44,235 The idea of communication without wire 357 00:22:44,235 --> 00:22:46,235 would have seemed extraordinary. 358 00:22:46,235 --> 00:22:48,275 But since, as the book says, 359 00:22:48,275 --> 00:22:52,555 "Essex composes part of the largest connected space of level ground 360 00:22:52,555 --> 00:22:55,995 "with not one lofty eminence or rocky ridge, 361 00:22:55,995 --> 00:22:59,675 "this was a good place to test wireless communication." 362 00:23:06,475 --> 00:23:11,635 Wireless technology has assumed a new importance in the 21st century. 363 00:23:11,635 --> 00:23:14,275 Chelmsford, the county town of Essex, 364 00:23:14,275 --> 00:23:16,715 benefited from the first wireless revolution 365 00:23:16,715 --> 00:23:20,595 when in 1912 an Italian named Guglielmo Marconi 366 00:23:20,595 --> 00:23:23,595 established the world's first purpose-built 367 00:23:23,595 --> 00:23:26,635 radio equipment factory in New Street, 368 00:23:26,635 --> 00:23:29,555 on the site of the town's old cricket ground. 369 00:23:32,995 --> 00:23:37,035 Much of the old works has been demolished, but to find out more, 370 00:23:37,035 --> 00:23:41,075 I'm meeting Chelmsford Museum science curator Dr Geoff Bowles 371 00:23:41,075 --> 00:23:44,035 in one of the surviving factory buildings. 372 00:23:46,395 --> 00:23:48,595 Hello, Geoff! Hello, Michael. 373 00:23:48,595 --> 00:23:51,835 Did Marconi actually invent wireless technology? 374 00:23:51,835 --> 00:23:55,715 His fundamental breakthrough really was to erect an aerial 375 00:23:55,715 --> 00:23:57,755 and an earth connection. 376 00:23:57,755 --> 00:24:00,555 Whereas others were trying it without those two things 377 00:24:00,555 --> 00:24:03,395 and they could make wireless waves go across the laboratory. 378 00:24:03,395 --> 00:24:05,435 With an aerial and earth, 379 00:24:05,435 --> 00:24:07,995 Marconi was suddenly sending it hundreds of metres. 380 00:24:07,995 --> 00:24:10,955 And that's what he was after. 381 00:24:10,955 --> 00:24:14,035 Frustrated by Italy's lacklustre attitude 382 00:24:14,035 --> 00:24:18,315 to technological innovation, Marconi settled in Chelmsford, 383 00:24:18,315 --> 00:24:21,235 beyond the area of the General Post Office monopoly 384 00:24:21,235 --> 00:24:24,475 on telegraphic communication. 385 00:24:24,475 --> 00:24:26,795 In 1901, the immigrant scientist 386 00:24:26,795 --> 00:24:30,035 sent the first wireless signal across the Atlantic. 387 00:24:31,075 --> 00:24:34,715 His high quality Morse code transmitters and receivers 388 00:24:34,715 --> 00:24:37,555 were sold to maritime fleets, governments 389 00:24:37,555 --> 00:24:40,195 and radio hams across the world. 390 00:24:42,395 --> 00:24:46,235 And, in 1920, the Nobel Prize-winning physicist 391 00:24:46,235 --> 00:24:48,795 achieved another communication milestone - 392 00:24:48,795 --> 00:24:52,395 a voice broadcast with edifying content by George. 393 00:24:54,915 --> 00:24:58,675 One of the things they did was actually read Bradshaw's timetable 394 00:24:58,675 --> 00:25:01,915 very, very slowly and clearly over the air. 395 00:25:01,915 --> 00:25:06,235 A great deal more interesting than many broadcasts that we get today! 396 00:25:06,235 --> 00:25:09,955 And when did we actually move to broadcasting in the fullest sense? 397 00:25:09,955 --> 00:25:14,115 Really as a result of a very famous concert. 398 00:25:14,115 --> 00:25:17,395 Dame Nelly Melba, the Australian prima donna, 399 00:25:17,395 --> 00:25:23,835 her voice went out from the enormous 450-foot mast which had been set up 400 00:25:23,835 --> 00:25:27,435 above the factory and she was heard all over the world. 401 00:25:27,435 --> 00:25:30,155 And suddenly it became clear that 402 00:25:30,155 --> 00:25:32,995 you could also broadcast entertainment to people. 403 00:25:32,995 --> 00:25:35,955 That was a totally new idea. 404 00:25:38,315 --> 00:25:41,195 The early factory studios no longer exist, 405 00:25:41,195 --> 00:25:43,995 but three miles east of the city centre 406 00:25:43,995 --> 00:25:48,715 at Chelmsford's Sandford Mill Museum, I'm meeting Peter Watkins 407 00:25:48,715 --> 00:25:53,555 who has first-hand experience of using early Marconi equipment. 408 00:25:53,555 --> 00:25:56,955 Hello, Peter. Hello, Michael. 409 00:25:56,955 --> 00:26:00,275 A bit of personal nostalgia for you. 410 00:26:00,275 --> 00:26:04,155 Yes. I was doing this about 55 years ago. You were on ships? 411 00:26:04,155 --> 00:26:07,635 Yes, I joined a ship in London docks 412 00:26:07,635 --> 00:26:10,115 and from there we went out to the Far East. 413 00:26:10,115 --> 00:26:13,595 You were employed by whom? I was employed by Marconi Marine. 414 00:26:13,595 --> 00:26:17,555 I realised Marconi put equipment for radio signals onto ships, 415 00:26:17,555 --> 00:26:21,195 but they put the people on as well, did they? Yes, it was a package. 416 00:26:21,195 --> 00:26:26,115 I imagine putting the equipment onto ships improved safety at sea. 417 00:26:26,115 --> 00:26:29,075 Oh, yes. The Titanic, for instance, 418 00:26:29,075 --> 00:26:31,515 would have had a range, with its transmitters, 419 00:26:31,515 --> 00:26:33,555 of at least 1,000 miles. 420 00:26:33,555 --> 00:26:36,435 So when they collided with the iceberg, 421 00:26:36,435 --> 00:26:39,235 the radio officer would have sent a distress signal, 422 00:26:39,235 --> 00:26:44,715 and without that message, many of the people who survived 423 00:26:44,715 --> 00:26:45,755 just wouldn't have done. 424 00:26:45,755 --> 00:26:48,195 And that was totally down to Marconi operators. 425 00:26:48,195 --> 00:26:50,835 Would you like to have a go at sending some Morse? 426 00:26:50,835 --> 00:26:54,035 I would love to but I don't know the signals. Well, we have this here. 427 00:26:54,035 --> 00:26:56,515 Oh, I see. I just follow that, do I? 428 00:26:56,515 --> 00:26:59,555 OK, what would you like me to send? How about Marconi? 429 00:27:01,155 --> 00:27:03,395 Dash. Dash, dash is M. 430 00:27:03,395 --> 00:27:05,515 Dot, dash is A. 431 00:27:05,515 --> 00:27:08,195 Dot, dash, dot. 432 00:27:08,195 --> 00:27:09,715 C. 433 00:27:09,715 --> 00:27:12,995 Dash, dot, dash, dot. O. 434 00:27:12,995 --> 00:27:16,395 MACHINE BEEPS Three dashes. Very simple. 435 00:27:16,395 --> 00:27:20,195 N...I've lost. N is dash, dot. 436 00:27:20,195 --> 00:27:22,915 And I. Dot, dot. MACHINE BEEPS 437 00:27:22,915 --> 00:27:26,595 Well done! A bit slow, wasn't it? THEY LAUGH 438 00:27:32,875 --> 00:27:35,315 Some industries that I've seen on this journey 439 00:27:35,315 --> 00:27:38,315 are as old as the Romans, like oyster dredging, 440 00:27:38,315 --> 00:27:41,195 but others, like lawn mowers and wireless, 441 00:27:41,195 --> 00:27:44,915 required Victorian breakthroughs in technology. 442 00:27:44,915 --> 00:27:48,435 John Mechi and Guillermo Marconi showed that people 443 00:27:48,435 --> 00:27:52,915 with foreign-sounding names could make useful British citizens. 444 00:27:52,915 --> 00:27:55,995 But then Michael Portillo would say that, wouldn't he? 445 00:27:59,875 --> 00:28:03,755 On the next leg, I'll try my hand at lowering a massive container 446 00:28:03,755 --> 00:28:05,955 onto a freight train. 447 00:28:05,955 --> 00:28:08,395 Now, the moment of truth. 448 00:28:09,435 --> 00:28:13,035 Discover the work of a renowned Victorian philanthropist. 449 00:28:13,035 --> 00:28:16,555 Each of the images has a before and after photograph. 450 00:28:16,555 --> 00:28:19,355 'And ask myself who the Dickens are these characters?' 451 00:28:19,355 --> 00:28:21,435 No doubt about who you are, 452 00:28:21,435 --> 00:28:24,715 because you've got the iron on your leg and the rag around your head. 453 00:28:24,715 --> 00:28:29,115 You're the convict, Magwitch, from Great Expectations, aren't you?