1 00:00:04,105 --> 00:00:08,385 In 1840, one man transformed travel in Britain. 2 00:00:08,385 --> 00:00:10,665 His name was George Bradshaw 3 00:00:10,665 --> 00:00:15,905 and his railway guides inspired the Victorians to take to the tracks. 4 00:00:15,905 --> 00:00:18,545 Stop by stop, he told them where to go, 5 00:00:18,545 --> 00:00:22,185 what to see and where to stay. 6 00:00:22,185 --> 00:00:26,345 And now, 170 years later, I'm aboard for a series 7 00:00:26,345 --> 00:00:29,185 of rail adventures across the United Kingdom, 8 00:00:29,185 --> 00:00:32,985 to see what of Bradshaw's Britain remains. 9 00:00:54,505 --> 00:00:57,545 My journey that began in Norfolk continues through Kent. 10 00:00:57,545 --> 00:01:00,585 Bradshaw's tells me that, "The railway's iron roads 11 00:01:00,585 --> 00:01:03,665 "intersect this beautiful county, 12 00:01:03,665 --> 00:01:06,705 "affording the inhabitants of the great metropolis 13 00:01:06,705 --> 00:01:08,945 "to become acquainted with picturesque scenery, 14 00:01:08,945 --> 00:01:11,385 "cities and baronial halls." 15 00:01:11,385 --> 00:01:13,825 They had set out in order to discover 16 00:01:13,825 --> 00:01:17,265 the essence of Britain, as I have today. 17 00:01:19,865 --> 00:01:21,705 On this leg, I'll deliver beer 18 00:01:21,705 --> 00:01:24,665 with old-fashioned directness... 19 00:01:24,665 --> 00:01:26,865 Anyone in need of a drink? 20 00:01:26,865 --> 00:01:29,665 ..learn about some old balls... 21 00:01:29,665 --> 00:01:31,465 That is the oldest cricket ball 22 00:01:31,465 --> 00:01:33,305 known to exist anywhere in the world. 23 00:01:33,305 --> 00:01:36,945 It was used in a match at Lord's in 1820. 24 00:01:36,945 --> 00:01:38,785 ..and ruffle some feathers in Dorking. 25 00:01:40,385 --> 00:01:44,665 I quite like a wash and blow-dry myself, so we're birds of a feather. 26 00:01:49,745 --> 00:01:52,825 My journey began in the cathedral city of Norwich. 27 00:01:52,825 --> 00:01:55,905 I travelled south, through East Anglia to Ipswich 28 00:01:55,905 --> 00:01:59,105 and Chelmsford, and crossed the Thames at Tilbury. 29 00:01:59,105 --> 00:02:01,945 Now I'll continue through Kent to Dover. 30 00:02:01,945 --> 00:02:04,345 After heading inland to Tonbridge, 31 00:02:04,345 --> 00:02:06,625 I'll return to the coast at Brighton, 32 00:02:06,625 --> 00:02:08,465 before ending my journey 33 00:02:08,465 --> 00:02:10,465 in another cathedral city, Chichester. 34 00:02:11,705 --> 00:02:13,705 Today, I will start in Faversham, 35 00:02:13,705 --> 00:02:16,585 travelling on to Dover and the Channel. 36 00:02:16,585 --> 00:02:19,025 I'll continue my journey through western Kent, 37 00:02:19,025 --> 00:02:21,465 detouring to Dorking, in Surrey. 38 00:02:29,985 --> 00:02:33,105 My next stop is Faversham. The guide book tells me that, 39 00:02:33,105 --> 00:02:36,305 "It's situated on a small stream running into the East Swale, 40 00:02:36,305 --> 00:02:37,865 "which is navigable. 41 00:02:37,865 --> 00:02:41,945 "There are some imports and a considerable coasting trade." 42 00:02:41,945 --> 00:02:45,625 I think some of those boats were hopping to local ports, 43 00:02:45,625 --> 00:02:48,585 bearing the town's frothy product. 44 00:02:49,705 --> 00:02:53,345 This part of Kent is famous for its distinctive oast houses, 45 00:02:53,345 --> 00:02:56,185 which were used for drying hops. 46 00:02:56,185 --> 00:02:58,425 Beer has been made here for centuries 47 00:02:58,425 --> 00:03:01,465 and Faversham has a distinguished brewing history. 48 00:03:01,465 --> 00:03:04,625 At the time of my guide, there were two breweries based here. 49 00:03:04,625 --> 00:03:06,305 Today, one survives, 50 00:03:06,305 --> 00:03:10,785 Shepherd Neame, and it claims to be the country's oldest. 51 00:03:10,785 --> 00:03:14,385 I'm meeting local historian John Owen to find out more. 52 00:03:15,905 --> 00:03:17,745 Hello. Michael, good morning, 53 00:03:17,745 --> 00:03:20,145 welcome to Shepherd Neame. Thank you so much. 54 00:03:20,145 --> 00:03:21,985 Faversham is a beautiful town, 55 00:03:21,985 --> 00:03:25,065 permeated by the gorgeous smell of hops, 56 00:03:25,065 --> 00:03:27,425 and this is a very ancient brewery, by the look of it. 57 00:03:27,425 --> 00:03:29,905 You go back how far? We've been on the same site 58 00:03:29,905 --> 00:03:32,265 from 1573. 59 00:03:32,265 --> 00:03:34,985 Extraordinary, actually here? 60 00:03:34,985 --> 00:03:39,025 Actually on this site. It is just a remarkable survival. 61 00:03:39,025 --> 00:03:40,465 I assume that originally, 62 00:03:40,465 --> 00:03:42,625 beer production had to be for local consumption, 63 00:03:42,625 --> 00:03:43,905 does beer travel well? 64 00:03:43,905 --> 00:03:45,825 No, it doesn't, and certainly, 65 00:03:45,825 --> 00:03:47,345 beer made in the 16th century 66 00:03:47,345 --> 00:03:49,985 would have travelled far worse than it does today. 67 00:03:49,985 --> 00:03:52,225 What made the difference to all of that? 68 00:03:52,225 --> 00:03:55,665 I think the quality of the transport and, ultimately, 69 00:03:55,665 --> 00:03:58,945 the coming of the railways in the middle of the 19th century. 70 00:03:58,945 --> 00:04:02,585 The railway arrived in Faversham in 1858 71 00:04:02,585 --> 00:04:04,625 and this brewery, in particular, 72 00:04:04,625 --> 00:04:07,065 was quick to see a new business opportunity. 73 00:04:07,065 --> 00:04:08,905 It built a new malt house 74 00:04:08,905 --> 00:04:11,505 and invested heavily in the railways. 75 00:04:12,585 --> 00:04:15,025 Did the brewery have its own rolling stock? 76 00:04:15,025 --> 00:04:18,465 I think it had about a dozen trucks by the 1880s. 77 00:04:18,465 --> 00:04:20,665 In the brewery's livery? Oh, yes. Wonderful livery. 78 00:04:20,665 --> 00:04:24,545 Pale cream and Oxford blue, which must have made quite a statement 79 00:04:24,545 --> 00:04:26,585 going up and down the line. 80 00:04:26,585 --> 00:04:28,785 And the expansion was quick. 81 00:04:28,785 --> 00:04:32,465 Whereas in 1865, the brewery had only five stores, 82 00:04:32,465 --> 00:04:35,945 by 1900, it had nearly 20. 83 00:04:35,945 --> 00:04:38,545 Thanks to the railways, they could now send their beer 84 00:04:38,545 --> 00:04:41,385 all the way up to Camberwell, in South London. 85 00:04:41,385 --> 00:04:44,465 This brewery's association with steam engines 86 00:04:44,465 --> 00:04:46,105 goes back much further. 87 00:04:46,105 --> 00:04:50,345 As early as 1789, it bought a Sun and Planet steam engine, 88 00:04:50,345 --> 00:04:52,385 which revolutionised production, 89 00:04:52,385 --> 00:04:55,585 mechanising the grinding of malt, and pumping water and beer 90 00:04:55,585 --> 00:04:59,545 around the factory. To find out how they make beer now, 91 00:04:59,545 --> 00:05:01,905 I'm meeting Chief Brewer Richard Frost. 92 00:05:03,345 --> 00:05:06,185 Hello, Richard. Hello, Michael, good to see you. 93 00:05:06,185 --> 00:05:07,745 It's an ancient brewery, 94 00:05:07,745 --> 00:05:10,945 and here I see some fairly ancient looking machinery, 95 00:05:10,945 --> 00:05:12,305 what kind of vintage is this stuff? 96 00:05:12,305 --> 00:05:15,025 These mash tuns date back to 1914. 97 00:05:15,025 --> 00:05:19,385 100 years old. Yeah, 100 years old. Very traditional, made of oak. 98 00:05:19,385 --> 00:05:20,465 So that's contributing 99 00:05:20,465 --> 00:05:23,145 part of the flavour. Definitely, without a doubt. 100 00:05:23,145 --> 00:05:25,745 I mean, here, you have the most fantastic combination 101 00:05:25,745 --> 00:05:27,945 of the old and the new. You've got digital controls, 102 00:05:27,945 --> 00:05:29,945 with some fairly ancient looking machinery. 103 00:05:29,945 --> 00:05:32,265 Yeah, the machinery dates back to Victorian days. 104 00:05:32,265 --> 00:05:35,585 Are you doing any mashing today? We are, in fact, 105 00:05:35,585 --> 00:05:37,945 Ian is just going to kick the process off. 106 00:05:37,945 --> 00:05:40,905 The brewing process hasn't changed much either. 107 00:05:42,745 --> 00:05:45,785 The crushed malt from the hopper above is mixed with hot water 108 00:05:45,785 --> 00:05:48,545 that has to be at exactly the right temperature. 109 00:05:51,225 --> 00:05:52,985 What temperature are we going up to, Ian? 110 00:05:52,985 --> 00:05:56,425 Between 63 and 63.4, just trying to get it 111 00:05:56,425 --> 00:05:59,585 levelled off in the middle area. 112 00:05:59,585 --> 00:06:02,545 So just a little adjustment here to this wheel. 113 00:06:02,545 --> 00:06:06,305 63.4 is about right. It's going up a bit there, 114 00:06:06,305 --> 00:06:07,905 so you open it up slightly. 115 00:06:10,745 --> 00:06:13,185 Now I'm going upstairs to the coppers, 116 00:06:13,185 --> 00:06:15,865 to find out about the next step in the process. 117 00:06:15,865 --> 00:06:18,305 The next part is to boil that up with some hops, 118 00:06:18,305 --> 00:06:19,905 some Kentish locally grown hops. 119 00:06:19,905 --> 00:06:23,665 So we'll go ahead and add some here. We have some behind you. 120 00:06:23,665 --> 00:06:26,025 It has that magnificent aroma, doesn't it? 121 00:06:26,025 --> 00:06:28,065 Oh, yeah, hops are rather like herbs and spices 122 00:06:28,065 --> 00:06:30,105 that a cook would use, or a chef would use. 123 00:06:30,105 --> 00:06:32,705 They add aroma and flavour to beer. 124 00:06:32,705 --> 00:06:34,145 If you would like to tip those in. 125 00:06:36,145 --> 00:06:38,865 Look at all that Kent goodness going down the chute. 126 00:06:38,865 --> 00:06:40,545 They're wonderful hops. 127 00:06:42,065 --> 00:06:44,905 Having found out how to brew a traditional Kentish beer, 128 00:06:44,905 --> 00:06:47,505 it's appropriate to make a local delivery, 129 00:06:47,505 --> 00:06:50,785 in one of the brewery's oldest vans. 130 00:06:50,785 --> 00:06:53,265 Here, we have a lovely Austin 20, 131 00:06:53,265 --> 00:06:56,945 and I thought it would be really nice if we could recreate a journey 132 00:06:56,945 --> 00:06:59,305 delivering some beer to the Railway Tavern in Faversham. 133 00:06:59,305 --> 00:07:02,145 I believe they're very thirsty there. Let's get going. 134 00:07:03,585 --> 00:07:05,945 Ah, what a magnificent car! 135 00:07:29,585 --> 00:07:30,905 Ah, thank you very much. 136 00:07:32,265 --> 00:07:36,185 Anyone in need of a drink? Yes, please. Thank you. 137 00:07:40,145 --> 00:07:41,785 It's now time to leave Faversham 138 00:07:41,785 --> 00:07:43,225 and head for the coast. 139 00:07:56,385 --> 00:07:59,265 Bradshaw's makes Dover sound really inviting. 140 00:07:59,265 --> 00:08:02,785 "The line of noble-looking mansions spreading along the coast, 141 00:08:02,785 --> 00:08:05,225 "the pureness of the atmosphere, 142 00:08:05,225 --> 00:08:07,145 "the bold and rocky scenery 143 00:08:07,145 --> 00:08:11,345 "give it an important position among our-sea loving citizens." 144 00:08:11,345 --> 00:08:14,305 Ah, but Dover had an important position 145 00:08:14,305 --> 00:08:17,505 militarily and strategically long before tourism. 146 00:08:26,625 --> 00:08:29,425 Guarding the narrowest stretch of the English Channel, 147 00:08:29,425 --> 00:08:33,385 Dover has been a strategic defensive town since Roman times. 148 00:08:34,985 --> 00:08:37,105 Here, I am little more than 20 miles 149 00:08:37,105 --> 00:08:38,865 from our historic enemy, the French. 150 00:08:44,545 --> 00:08:46,785 The castle, says my guide book, 151 00:08:46,785 --> 00:08:49,265 is, "The great lion of Dover, 152 00:08:49,265 --> 00:08:52,665 "and as the first object that strikes the eye of the traveller, 153 00:08:52,665 --> 00:08:56,105 "it is sure to woo his footsteps thither." 154 00:08:56,105 --> 00:08:58,345 Well, my footsteps are wooed 155 00:08:58,345 --> 00:09:01,705 by another military structure which is a bit less obvious. 156 00:09:10,425 --> 00:09:12,985 According to Bradshaw, this is, 157 00:09:12,985 --> 00:09:15,225 "The grand military shaft, 158 00:09:15,225 --> 00:09:17,065 "leading to the heights 159 00:09:17,065 --> 00:09:18,665 "and barracks above. 160 00:09:18,665 --> 00:09:23,025 "Sufficiently capacious to contain many thousand troops." 161 00:09:23,025 --> 00:09:27,545 For such a vast place, this must be Dover's best kept secret. 162 00:09:35,105 --> 00:09:39,785 I'm meeting Mandy Whall of the Western Heights Preservation Society 163 00:09:39,785 --> 00:09:41,185 to find out more. 164 00:09:41,185 --> 00:09:44,305 Mandy, hello. Hello, Michael. 165 00:09:44,305 --> 00:09:46,305 I think this is the most extraordinary place 166 00:09:46,305 --> 00:09:48,745 I've ever seen. Why was this built? 167 00:09:48,745 --> 00:09:52,145 Above us on the cliff, we have the Grand Shaft Barracks 168 00:09:52,145 --> 00:09:55,665 where approximately 1,000 troops would have been housed. 169 00:09:55,665 --> 00:09:59,105 The only way down to the seafront, had an enemy invaded, 170 00:09:59,105 --> 00:10:02,105 would be to run down the side of the cliff, 171 00:10:02,105 --> 00:10:06,025 down there, miles away, come back... It's about a mile and a half. 172 00:10:06,025 --> 00:10:10,265 So they needed a way to move troops very quickly from the barracks 173 00:10:10,265 --> 00:10:13,745 down to the seafront, which is about 300 yards that way. 174 00:10:13,745 --> 00:10:18,185 So we've got the elegant solution of a triple helix spiral staircase, 175 00:10:18,185 --> 00:10:22,225 so you can move your troops very quickly from the barracks site 176 00:10:22,225 --> 00:10:23,705 down to the seafront. 177 00:10:23,705 --> 00:10:26,345 This is all about fear of invasion, I suppose? Yes. 178 00:10:26,345 --> 00:10:29,745 And I suppose it's the French as usual that we were worried about? 179 00:10:29,745 --> 00:10:31,145 Oh, yes, yes, Napoleon. 180 00:10:31,145 --> 00:10:36,065 The initial building started in 1804 and it was completed by 1806, 181 00:10:36,065 --> 00:10:40,225 so a very quick build. Was this a very secret operation? 182 00:10:40,225 --> 00:10:42,745 We wouldn't have told the French, to be sure. 183 00:10:42,745 --> 00:10:44,825 There are a lot of fortifications up here. 184 00:10:44,825 --> 00:10:47,665 They are all very well concealed 185 00:10:47,665 --> 00:10:50,665 so they couldn't be observed from even the town of Dover itself. 186 00:10:50,665 --> 00:10:53,425 And are we able to go up to the top these days? 187 00:10:53,425 --> 00:10:55,985 You certainly are, yes, it's 200 stairs 188 00:10:55,985 --> 00:10:58,185 and I've got a bit of a challenge for you. 189 00:10:58,185 --> 00:11:02,265 In 1826, one soldier bet that he could run up these stairs 190 00:11:02,265 --> 00:11:05,105 in 30 seconds, and I wondered if you would like to have a go? 191 00:11:05,105 --> 00:11:07,625 200 steps in 30 seconds?! Yes. 192 00:11:07,625 --> 00:11:10,145 I don't think so, but I'll give it a go! 193 00:11:10,145 --> 00:11:12,025 See you in a minute! See you in a moment. 194 00:11:13,865 --> 00:11:19,705 OK, Michael? Ready... Steady... Go! 195 00:11:33,745 --> 00:11:38,985 What's the score? 46.6 seconds. I was weighed down by my book! 196 00:11:38,985 --> 00:11:42,265 Did I come all that way? You certainly did! 197 00:11:44,625 --> 00:11:47,345 I think this now explains something in Bradshaw's Guide 198 00:11:47,345 --> 00:11:48,385 which was puzzling me 199 00:11:48,385 --> 00:11:50,585 that says that there are three spiral staircases 200 00:11:50,585 --> 00:11:52,145 and I see there are. 201 00:11:52,145 --> 00:11:54,265 Now, what was the point of having three? 202 00:11:54,265 --> 00:11:57,705 It means you can move three times the troops in a third of the time. 203 00:11:57,705 --> 00:12:00,145 And how did they decide which one to use? 204 00:12:00,145 --> 00:12:03,305 When it was first built, there was no class distinction, 205 00:12:03,305 --> 00:12:06,345 so anybody went down whatever staircase, 206 00:12:06,345 --> 00:12:08,385 but by the time you get to the Victorian era, 207 00:12:08,385 --> 00:12:11,305 there's a much bigger class distinction. 208 00:12:11,305 --> 00:12:13,865 So what they did is they allocated staircases. 209 00:12:13,865 --> 00:12:18,305 One for officers and their ladies, one for sergeants and their wives 210 00:12:18,305 --> 00:12:21,505 and the other for soldiers and their women. 211 00:12:21,505 --> 00:12:23,305 But it just shows the class system 212 00:12:23,305 --> 00:12:25,585 gets into everything in Britain, doesn't it? Yes. 213 00:12:25,585 --> 00:12:28,185 Oh, not another set of steps! MANDY LAUGHS 214 00:12:35,025 --> 00:12:37,745 So, I think I get the idea now. 215 00:12:37,745 --> 00:12:41,385 The fortress is sunk into the cliff so that in Napoleonic times 216 00:12:41,385 --> 00:12:44,865 and actually even today, you have no clue that it's here. 217 00:12:44,865 --> 00:12:48,905 Well, that's right. It's cunningly concealed within the contours 218 00:12:48,905 --> 00:12:51,025 and topography of the landscape. 219 00:12:51,025 --> 00:12:52,785 What went on here at the top? 220 00:12:52,785 --> 00:12:54,785 Well, this is the parade ground, 221 00:12:54,785 --> 00:12:58,065 at the late 19th century they had the Easter Reviews. 222 00:12:58,065 --> 00:12:59,905 It was a huge spectacular. 223 00:12:59,905 --> 00:13:03,505 The Easter Volunteers would stage elaborate military manoeuvres 224 00:13:03,505 --> 00:13:06,985 that were important battlefield training exercises. 225 00:13:06,985 --> 00:13:10,465 But they were also massive public spectacles 226 00:13:10,465 --> 00:13:14,105 with thousands of people coming to watch from all over the country. 227 00:13:14,105 --> 00:13:18,385 We have accounts of 30 trains between 6am and 9am 228 00:13:18,385 --> 00:13:22,105 bringing down 25,000 troops as well as any ammunition 229 00:13:22,105 --> 00:13:26,665 and all the horses, and everything else that they required on that day. 230 00:13:26,665 --> 00:13:30,945 And then they all pack up at the end of the day and go home by train. 231 00:13:30,945 --> 00:13:32,745 Absolute military precision - 232 00:13:32,745 --> 00:13:35,025 mechanised warfare using the railways. 233 00:13:35,025 --> 00:13:37,665 Can we take a walk around? Of course you can, yes. 234 00:13:46,425 --> 00:13:49,745 Mandy, as we look out towards France, across the narrow moat 235 00:13:49,745 --> 00:13:52,505 that has protected our realm over the centuries, 236 00:13:52,505 --> 00:13:54,345 let me read to you from Bradshaw. 237 00:13:54,345 --> 00:13:58,305 "Nowhere, perhaps in the whole circuit of the kingdom 238 00:13:58,305 --> 00:14:01,625 "is there another spot so calculated to awaken 239 00:14:01,625 --> 00:14:06,505 "in the bosom of an Englishman feelings of pride and exultation, 240 00:14:06,505 --> 00:14:10,785 "as the objects around call up in succession those martial 241 00:14:10,785 --> 00:14:14,625 "and intellectual achievements by which the inviolate island 242 00:14:14,625 --> 00:14:17,065 "of the sage and the free 243 00:14:17,065 --> 00:14:20,945 "has attained her present unquestioned supremacy." 244 00:14:35,825 --> 00:14:40,425 It's now time for me to continue my journey on through Kent. 245 00:14:50,785 --> 00:14:53,865 My train has taken me into the interior of Kent. 246 00:14:53,865 --> 00:14:57,905 Bradshaw's tells me that my next stop, Staplehurst, is near 247 00:14:57,905 --> 00:15:02,265 the remains of Sissinghurst Castle and that's well worth a visit. 248 00:15:02,265 --> 00:15:05,425 If I could lay my head close to Sissinghurst Castle, 249 00:15:05,425 --> 00:15:06,945 that would be something. 250 00:15:24,545 --> 00:15:28,345 Best known for its gardens, designed in the 1930s by the poet 251 00:15:28,345 --> 00:15:29,785 Vita Sackville-West, 252 00:15:29,785 --> 00:15:34,145 Sissinghurst Castle had been in Victorian times a mediaeval ruin. 253 00:15:34,145 --> 00:15:38,185 But the estate had won fame for its progressive farming techniques 254 00:15:38,185 --> 00:15:40,185 under the tenancy of George Neve. 255 00:15:40,185 --> 00:15:43,985 Some of the farm buildings from the mid-19th century have survived 256 00:15:43,985 --> 00:15:48,065 and stand as a monument to the Great Victorian Farming Revival 257 00:15:48,065 --> 00:15:49,905 that began in the 1850s. 258 00:15:49,905 --> 00:15:51,545 Peter Mellor knows more. 259 00:15:51,545 --> 00:15:53,825 Hello, Peter. Hello, Michael. 260 00:15:53,825 --> 00:15:57,425 Good to see you. Welcome to the Sissinghurst Castle Estate. 261 00:15:57,425 --> 00:15:58,505 Well, thank you. 262 00:15:58,505 --> 00:16:01,705 So, this farmhouse on the castle estate 263 00:16:01,705 --> 00:16:05,905 has a very Victorian look to me, what's its history? 264 00:16:05,905 --> 00:16:12,225 Built in 1855 by the Cornwallis family for a farm tenant, 265 00:16:12,225 --> 00:16:17,065 George Neve, who was only 28 at the time the farmhouse was built. 266 00:16:17,065 --> 00:16:21,385 It was a splendid house for a very progressive 267 00:16:21,385 --> 00:16:26,545 and energetic farm tenant in the golden age of Victorian farming. 268 00:16:26,545 --> 00:16:30,585 The farmhouse was the centre of a thriving and modern farm 269 00:16:30,585 --> 00:16:32,305 of around 500 acres. 270 00:16:32,305 --> 00:16:35,425 The railway was crucial to the farm's success, 271 00:16:35,425 --> 00:16:38,825 allowing it to transport its produce far and wide. 272 00:16:40,865 --> 00:16:43,385 Well, the house tells a very Victorian story. 273 00:16:43,385 --> 00:16:45,225 I shall be very pleased indeed to stay here. 274 00:16:45,225 --> 00:16:46,905 Cheers. Cheers, Michael. 275 00:17:01,825 --> 00:17:04,625 It's a new day and I'm heading west - 276 00:17:04,625 --> 00:17:07,225 further into the Weald of Kent. 277 00:17:14,265 --> 00:17:16,785 My first stop today will be Tonbridge. 278 00:17:16,785 --> 00:17:19,945 Bradshaw's tells me that it's situated on the Tun 279 00:17:19,945 --> 00:17:23,625 and four branches of the Medway all crossed by bridges. 280 00:17:23,625 --> 00:17:25,945 It is noted for the excellent grammar school. 281 00:17:25,945 --> 00:17:28,825 I'm hoping to take a lesson in how the railways 282 00:17:28,825 --> 00:17:31,265 put the school on track. 283 00:17:43,225 --> 00:17:46,265 At Tonbridge School, I'm hoping to find out more 284 00:17:46,265 --> 00:17:49,545 from former deputy head teacher David Walsh. 285 00:17:51,505 --> 00:17:55,465 David. Good morning, Michael, and welcome to Tonbridge School. 286 00:17:55,465 --> 00:17:58,505 Thank you very much. A very ancient foundation, dating back to...? 287 00:17:58,505 --> 00:18:04,145 1553. It was founded by Sir Andrew Judd who was a city merchant. 288 00:18:04,145 --> 00:18:06,785 I think of public schools as rather large institutions, 289 00:18:06,785 --> 00:18:08,625 did it begin that way? 290 00:18:08,625 --> 00:18:11,265 No, for the first 300 years of its existence, 291 00:18:11,265 --> 00:18:14,105 really until the railways came in the mid-19th century, 292 00:18:14,105 --> 00:18:16,105 it only had about 40 or 50 boys, 293 00:18:16,105 --> 00:18:19,185 but by the time the Victorian Age ended, 294 00:18:19,185 --> 00:18:21,305 it had gone up to about 440 boys. 295 00:18:21,305 --> 00:18:23,465 And the railways had something to do with that? 296 00:18:23,465 --> 00:18:25,265 The railways had a lot to do with that. 297 00:18:25,265 --> 00:18:28,145 The railways were, of course, one of the main sort of drivers 298 00:18:28,145 --> 00:18:30,985 of Victorian prosperity, which meant that more and more people 299 00:18:30,985 --> 00:18:34,025 could afford to send their children to schools where they had to pay fees. 300 00:18:34,025 --> 00:18:37,865 But they also widened people's geographical horizons considerably. 301 00:18:39,105 --> 00:18:42,545 Tonbridge School was also fortunate to own a piece of land 302 00:18:42,545 --> 00:18:45,705 next to the new St Pancras station in London. 303 00:18:45,705 --> 00:18:49,425 When that was sold profitably to the Midland Railway during the 1860s, 304 00:18:49,425 --> 00:18:51,625 around the time of my Bradshaw's, 305 00:18:51,625 --> 00:18:55,465 the school was able to rebuild and enlarge its buildings. 306 00:18:55,465 --> 00:18:57,785 The school also owned a sloping piece of land 307 00:18:57,785 --> 00:19:00,225 near the new railway line in Tonbridge, 308 00:19:00,225 --> 00:19:03,265 which it levelled, using the spoil from the line's construction 309 00:19:03,265 --> 00:19:06,465 to create The Head cricket ground. 310 00:19:06,465 --> 00:19:08,545 David's taking me to have a look. 311 00:19:08,545 --> 00:19:12,225 It's a lovely setting for a cricket match. 312 00:19:12,225 --> 00:19:14,825 Cricket has always been an important part of Tonbridge school. 313 00:19:14,825 --> 00:19:18,025 I think partly because of the lovely ground we have here 314 00:19:18,025 --> 00:19:20,625 but also because of the presence in the school 315 00:19:20,625 --> 00:19:22,545 of old boys like Colin Cowdrey, 316 00:19:22,545 --> 00:19:25,585 who was a boy here from 1946 until 1950. 317 00:19:25,585 --> 00:19:28,265 Beginning with Colin Cowdrey 318 00:19:28,265 --> 00:19:31,785 many talented cricketers have emerged from this school. 319 00:19:31,785 --> 00:19:35,745 Including his sons, Chris and Graham Cowdrey, and more recently 320 00:19:35,745 --> 00:19:38,905 Richard Ellison and Ed Smith, the Test Match Special pundit. 321 00:19:38,905 --> 00:19:43,945 The area is as noted for cricket balls as cricket stars. 322 00:19:43,945 --> 00:19:46,945 And here's how it's made down in the garden of Kent. 323 00:19:46,945 --> 00:19:49,705 While the hide strips for the cover are drying, 324 00:19:49,705 --> 00:19:52,025 the core or quilt is being fashioned, 325 00:19:52,025 --> 00:19:54,705 the cover is cut into quarters and these are sewn 326 00:19:54,705 --> 00:19:59,145 together into halves by a process known as closing. 327 00:19:59,145 --> 00:20:02,025 So a powerful vice is used to press them together and up into a slight ridge. 328 00:20:02,025 --> 00:20:06,385 Now comes another lot of sewing, with threads of specially prepared flax. 329 00:20:06,385 --> 00:20:10,905 And then the harvest, ammunition for village greens and county pitches. 330 00:20:10,905 --> 00:20:15,785 Neil Robinson from the MCC Museum will educate me, it seems. 331 00:20:15,785 --> 00:20:20,265 What have you got here? We have got a sample of 3 balls 332 00:20:20,265 --> 00:20:21,985 from various periods through history. 333 00:20:21,985 --> 00:20:24,425 and you will notice immediately simply from the size 334 00:20:24,425 --> 00:20:26,985 and design that they really haven't changed that much. 335 00:20:26,985 --> 00:20:32,265 If you'd like to pop these gloves on you will be able to weigh them in your hands. 336 00:20:32,265 --> 00:20:35,905 Now that is the oldest cricket ball known to exist anywhere in the world. 337 00:20:35,905 --> 00:20:39,945 It was used at a match at Lords in 1820 338 00:20:39,945 --> 00:20:44,865 So this ball feels to me pretty much like a cricket ball of today. 339 00:20:44,865 --> 00:20:49,305 It should do the only notable difference is obviously the leather has faded over the last 2 centuries. 340 00:20:49,305 --> 00:20:53,785 And this newer ball. The second ball we have here 341 00:20:53,785 --> 00:20:59,825 dates from 1902. You'll see the leather has faded slightly but isn't quite as far gone as the 1820 ball. 342 00:20:59,825 --> 00:21:02,945 This was used in a match at the Oval a test match between England 343 00:21:02,945 --> 00:21:05,305 and Australia which England won by one wicket, 344 00:21:05,305 --> 00:21:08,425 a very famous match, a very thrilling innings by Gilbert Jessop. 345 00:21:08,425 --> 00:21:13,905 And it was actually made, this ball, in the John Wisden and Co works on Baltic Road here in Tonbridge. 346 00:21:13,905 --> 00:21:18,145 John Wisden, now that's a name I know surely for the cricket almanacs. 347 00:21:18,145 --> 00:21:21,825 Well, yes indeed, Wisden brought out his first cricket almanac in 1864 348 00:21:21,825 --> 00:21:25,705 and it's been going for 150 years now rather like Bradshaw there. 349 00:21:25,705 --> 00:21:29,865 Yeah, this is 1864ish as well. Indeed. 350 00:21:29,865 --> 00:21:32,185 An important year for cricket? It was very much so. 351 00:21:32,185 --> 00:21:36,105 WG Grace made his first appearance at Lords, over arm bowling was legalised. 352 00:21:36,105 --> 00:21:38,825 So you may say the modern world was making itself 353 00:21:38,825 --> 00:21:42,265 felt in cricket as it was through the railways and other areas. 354 00:21:42,265 --> 00:21:45,785 Well, Neal, I don't believe I have touched a cricket ball for some decades 355 00:21:45,785 --> 00:21:47,305 but this has given me an idea. 356 00:21:50,465 --> 00:21:53,425 This is where Bradshaw turns to Brad-MAN. 357 00:22:05,265 --> 00:22:06,705 Oh, yes! 358 00:22:08,505 --> 00:22:10,665 My luck is in today. 359 00:22:14,265 --> 00:22:15,745 Wow, we're off again. 360 00:22:25,145 --> 00:22:28,025 Even Bradman had his bad days. 361 00:22:34,545 --> 00:22:40,465 Bowled over by the cricketing prowess of Tonbridge school, I'm detouring further west into Surrey. 362 00:22:40,465 --> 00:22:47,505 I'm changing trains at Redhill because something in my Bradshaw's has piqued my interest. 363 00:22:54,025 --> 00:22:56,065 I'm on my way to Dorking. 364 00:22:56,065 --> 00:22:59,505 Bradshaw's tells me it's celebrated for its poultry. 365 00:22:59,505 --> 00:23:02,745 Particularly for a five-toed breed called Dorkings, 366 00:23:02,745 --> 00:23:05,785 supposed to have been introduced by the Romans. 367 00:23:05,785 --> 00:23:08,025 Now that's worth crossing the road for! 368 00:23:20,025 --> 00:23:22,265 I'm going to visit Wymbleton farm, 369 00:23:22,265 --> 00:23:27,145 where Lana Gazder is going to tell me all about this noble fowl. 370 00:23:27,145 --> 00:23:29,585 Hello, Lana. Hello, Michael. Nice to meet you. 371 00:23:29,585 --> 00:23:33,225 I'd never thought of counting the toes of a chicken but Bradshaw's 372 00:23:33,225 --> 00:23:36,865 tells me there's a special five-toed variety here in Dorking. 373 00:23:36,865 --> 00:23:39,105 There is and they are quite rare. 374 00:23:39,105 --> 00:23:43,585 It is one of the oldest chickens in Britain if not the oldest. 375 00:23:43,585 --> 00:23:45,985 And the five toes is a bit of a mystery where it came from. 376 00:23:45,985 --> 00:23:49,065 People think that the Romans brought the Dorking in 377 00:23:49,065 --> 00:23:50,705 but I don't believe that. 378 00:23:50,705 --> 00:23:53,745 If that was so, there would still be Dorkings in Italy. 379 00:23:53,745 --> 00:23:56,825 So I tend to think they were here already, 380 00:23:56,825 --> 00:23:59,505 possibly brought in by the Venetian traders, 381 00:23:59,505 --> 00:24:03,625 they might have brought in the Hudan or the Arden, they have five toes, 382 00:24:03,625 --> 00:24:06,905 and they may have mixed them with the Scott's dumpy, 383 00:24:06,905 --> 00:24:12,865 so I reckon there was a five-toed bird in England and when the Romans came they recognised them as 384 00:24:12,865 --> 00:24:17,305 an excellent bird to feed their army, and I do believe they perfected them. 385 00:24:17,305 --> 00:24:19,185 Just show me the difference. 386 00:24:19,185 --> 00:24:21,985 These are the front three toes, which every chicken has, 387 00:24:21,985 --> 00:24:24,145 and they also have a fourth toe at the back. 388 00:24:24,145 --> 00:24:27,505 But the Dorking has a fifth toe, so that is the unusual bit. 389 00:24:27,505 --> 00:24:33,105 It's probably a deformity but it was bred in an it's a dominant feature 390 00:24:33,105 --> 00:24:36,385 OK so they have more toes. What else makes them special? 391 00:24:36,385 --> 00:24:38,225 What makes them important? 392 00:24:38,225 --> 00:24:40,545 They're important for the fact 393 00:24:40,545 --> 00:24:44,905 they are probably the most excellent meat bird in Britain. 394 00:24:44,905 --> 00:24:51,665 Also, the whole shape of them is a lengthy, rectangular bird. 395 00:24:51,665 --> 00:24:54,905 Are Dorkings still sold for meat? Sadly not. 396 00:24:54,905 --> 00:24:59,145 It's economically not viable nowadays. 397 00:24:59,145 --> 00:25:03,305 The Dorking's eggs were particularly prized by Queen Victoria 398 00:25:03,305 --> 00:25:08,465 She insisted on them being served because they were delicious and digestible. 399 00:25:08,465 --> 00:25:12,745 I just have to find out what all the fuss is about. 400 00:25:12,745 --> 00:25:16,785 Mmm, lovely dark yellow hue. 401 00:25:21,345 --> 00:25:25,705 It's bursting with flavour. Absolutely glorious. 402 00:25:25,705 --> 00:25:30,385 And you can assure me that it's also easy on my digestion! Absolutely. 403 00:25:30,385 --> 00:25:32,185 Queen Victoria couldn't have been wrong! 404 00:25:33,985 --> 00:25:36,305 This humble chicken has put Dorking on the map. 405 00:25:36,305 --> 00:25:39,585 There's a 10 foot statue of a Dorking 406 00:25:39,585 --> 00:25:42,785 installed on a roundabout in 2007. 407 00:25:42,785 --> 00:25:46,465 It was modelled on one of Lana's exhibition chickens. 408 00:25:46,465 --> 00:25:50,025 I'll now help her to prepare one for a show. 409 00:25:52,385 --> 00:25:54,425 This is a dark Dorking. 410 00:25:54,425 --> 00:25:56,305 What are you going to do first? 411 00:25:56,305 --> 00:25:59,585 I will very carefully put her in the water. 412 00:25:59,585 --> 00:26:03,425 And very quietly apply the water without scaring her. 413 00:26:03,425 --> 00:26:06,745 No brisk movements is the secret. 414 00:26:06,745 --> 00:26:10,305 Dab the sponge until she gets used to it. 415 00:26:10,305 --> 00:26:14,985 And then you have to very carefully scrub at her legs. 416 00:26:14,985 --> 00:26:18,585 Well, Lana, I can absolutely tell you that I have never before 417 00:26:18,585 --> 00:26:21,305 scrubbed the feet of a chicken with a toothbrush! 418 00:26:21,305 --> 00:26:24,465 What a handsome beast you're going to be! She's enjoying it I think 419 00:26:24,465 --> 00:26:25,865 Very well behaved indeed, 420 00:26:25,865 --> 00:26:29,425 considering she's being groomed by an amateur. 421 00:26:29,425 --> 00:26:31,425 Now, you've got one wet chicken. 422 00:26:31,425 --> 00:26:35,265 I have. She'll have to be blow dried. 423 00:26:35,265 --> 00:26:39,505 You can't be serious. No, they really enjoy it because if you think of a chicken 424 00:26:39,505 --> 00:26:42,945 on a tree, the wind blowing through their feathers, 425 00:26:42,945 --> 00:26:45,145 that's a natural thing for them. 426 00:26:45,145 --> 00:26:46,705 This, I have to see. 427 00:26:49,025 --> 00:26:50,425 Very handy having help. 428 00:26:54,425 --> 00:26:56,065 Under the wing. 429 00:26:58,065 --> 00:27:01,025 She'll be feeling nice and warm now, won't she? 430 00:27:01,025 --> 00:27:05,545 I quite like a wash and blow dry myself so we're birds of a feather! 431 00:27:05,545 --> 00:27:09,945 I think she's virtually done now with the hairdryer. Well, Lana, thank you so much. 432 00:27:09,945 --> 00:27:12,785 And just to think I would never have discovered a five-toed 433 00:27:12,785 --> 00:27:15,345 Dorking without my Bradshaw's guide! 434 00:27:15,345 --> 00:27:16,865 That's very good. 435 00:27:23,745 --> 00:27:26,785 The Duke of Wellington remarked that the battle of Waterloo 436 00:27:26,785 --> 00:27:28,705 was won on the playing fields of Eton. 437 00:27:28,705 --> 00:27:34,225 You might also say that test matches have been won on the cricket square of Tonbridge school. 438 00:27:34,225 --> 00:27:40,465 Warm beer, cricket and public schools were parts of Victorian culture. 439 00:27:40,465 --> 00:27:43,985 The white cliffs of Dover would be the front line in which 440 00:27:43,985 --> 00:27:48,345 British customs and values would be defended against aggressors. 441 00:27:48,345 --> 00:27:52,785 A sentiment expressed in patriotic language by my Bradshaw's guide. 442 00:27:55,745 --> 00:27:58,745 Next time, I'll pick up the scent underground in Brighton... 443 00:27:58,745 --> 00:28:02,625 I had no idea that sewage had such a sweet tinkle to it. 444 00:28:02,625 --> 00:28:05,465 ..Visit a party palace fit for a queen... 445 00:28:05,465 --> 00:28:07,625 "As the royal pair approached Castle Square, 446 00:28:07,625 --> 00:28:10,305 "the crowed pressed forward more closely 447 00:28:10,305 --> 00:28:14,305 "and some errand boys rudely peered beneath her majesty's bonnet." 448 00:28:14,305 --> 00:28:15,545 How frightful! 449 00:28:15,545 --> 00:28:18,025 ..And pass the chequered flag in style. 450 00:28:18,025 --> 00:28:23,625 Down the straight they are doing 180 miles per hour. I can't believe it. 451 00:28:23,625 --> 00:28:28,105 I'm touching just over 60 now and enjoying it. That was 70, come on!