1 00:00:04,440 --> 00:00:09,480 In 1840, one man transformed travel in Britain. 2 00:00:09,480 --> 00:00:11,040 His name was George Bradshaw 3 00:00:11,040 --> 00:00:15,360 and his railway guides inspired the Victorians to take to the tracks. 4 00:00:16,400 --> 00:00:22,520 Stop by stop, he told them where to go, what to see and where to stay. 5 00:00:22,520 --> 00:00:28,160 And now, 170 years later, I'm aboard for a series of rail adventures 6 00:00:28,160 --> 00:00:32,840 across the United Kingdom to see what of Bradshaw's Britain remains. 7 00:00:54,800 --> 00:00:57,600 I'm reaching the end of my journey and I'll be travelling 8 00:00:57,600 --> 00:01:02,120 along the south coast through the counties of East and West Sussex. 9 00:01:02,120 --> 00:01:06,200 Bradshaw says, "Railways may now be considered as accelerators 10 00:01:06,200 --> 00:01:10,040 "of pleasure. Bringing the most favourite watering places 11 00:01:10,040 --> 00:01:15,400 "along the coast within the compass of a brief and agreeable journey." 12 00:01:15,400 --> 00:01:19,560 As we might say today, trains were changing the work/life balance. 13 00:01:21,800 --> 00:01:26,040 On this leg, I'll pick up the scent underground in Brighton... 14 00:01:26,040 --> 00:01:29,360 I had no idea that sewage had such a sweet tinkle to it. 15 00:01:29,360 --> 00:01:32,160 ..visit a palace that didn't amuse a queen... 16 00:01:32,160 --> 00:01:35,000 As the royal pair approached Castle Square, 17 00:01:35,000 --> 00:01:37,880 the crowd pressed forward more closely and some 18 00:01:37,880 --> 00:01:41,640 errant boys rudely peered beneath her Majesty's bonnet. 19 00:01:41,640 --> 00:01:42,720 How frightful! 20 00:01:42,720 --> 00:01:45,160 ..and pass the chequered flag in style. 21 00:01:45,160 --> 00:01:49,360 Down the straight in the revival, they're doing 180mph. 22 00:01:49,360 --> 00:01:50,440 I can't believe it. 23 00:01:50,440 --> 00:01:53,360 I'm touching just over 60 now and enjoying it. 24 00:01:53,360 --> 00:01:55,920 That was 70, come on. Ha, ha! 25 00:02:00,800 --> 00:02:04,080 My journey began in the cathedral city of Norwich. 26 00:02:04,080 --> 00:02:08,080 I travelled south through East Anglia to Ipswich and Chelmsford. 27 00:02:09,440 --> 00:02:13,640 Crossing the Thames at Tilbury, I continued through Kent to Dover 28 00:02:13,640 --> 00:02:16,680 and then headed inland to Tonbridge. 29 00:02:16,680 --> 00:02:19,920 I'll return to the coast at Brighton, before ending 30 00:02:19,920 --> 00:02:22,720 my journey in another cathedral city. 31 00:02:24,680 --> 00:02:29,040 Now I reach the seaside at Brighton and visit Bramber 32 00:02:29,040 --> 00:02:34,040 and Arundel before arriving at my final destination, Chichester. 33 00:02:39,600 --> 00:02:41,680 My first stop will be what Bradshaw's calls, 34 00:02:41,680 --> 00:02:43,560 The Marine Metropolis. 35 00:02:43,560 --> 00:02:45,920 And here's an interesting social comment. 36 00:02:45,920 --> 00:02:48,560 "Merchants who formerly made Dulwich or Dalston 37 00:02:48,560 --> 00:02:50,960 "the boundaries of their suburban residences, 38 00:02:50,960 --> 00:02:54,840 "now have their mansions by the south coast and still get 39 00:02:54,840 --> 00:03:00,240 "in less time, by a less expensive conveyance, to their counting houses in the city" 40 00:03:00,240 --> 00:03:04,160 What's more, Brighton had a royal seal of approval. 41 00:03:05,720 --> 00:03:08,640 The railway arrived here in 1841 42 00:03:08,640 --> 00:03:11,920 and by the mid-1840s, the journey time from London 43 00:03:11,920 --> 00:03:14,320 was just over an hour. 44 00:03:14,320 --> 00:03:18,120 Brighton station was soon bustling with day trippers and commuters. 45 00:03:20,320 --> 00:03:23,160 My guidebook comments that, "The Brighton terminus is 46 00:03:23,160 --> 00:03:27,520 "an elegant structure, fitted up in the most convenient manner." 47 00:03:27,520 --> 00:03:28,960 Hear hear. 48 00:03:34,720 --> 00:03:38,080 Originally called Brighthelmstone, as a fishing village 49 00:03:38,080 --> 00:03:41,520 Brighton avoided the limelight until the late 18th century 50 00:03:43,000 --> 00:03:45,640 That changed after the Prince Regent, 51 00:03:45,640 --> 00:03:50,920 later King George IV, first visited Brighton in 1783. 52 00:03:50,920 --> 00:03:53,360 He began to spend time here. 53 00:03:53,360 --> 00:03:56,160 As a man devoted to elegance and pleasure, 54 00:03:56,160 --> 00:04:02,040 He decided in 1787 to create this whimsical pavilion. 55 00:04:02,040 --> 00:04:06,080 The Brighton Pavilion, says my guidebook, "Rises with domes 56 00:04:06,080 --> 00:04:11,440 "and minarets, and is fretted with greater variety than taste. 57 00:04:11,440 --> 00:04:16,760 "Erected for George IV, after a fanciful oriental model." 58 00:04:16,760 --> 00:04:19,760 You sense here the disdain that every generation 59 00:04:19,760 --> 00:04:22,560 feels for the fashion of its predecessor. 60 00:04:24,200 --> 00:04:28,120 I think I'll ask some of today's visitors what they think... 61 00:04:28,120 --> 00:04:30,120 Hello. Hello, how are you doing? 62 00:04:30,120 --> 00:04:32,360 I'm using a 19th century guidebook 63 00:04:32,360 --> 00:04:34,360 which says that the exterior of the building, 64 00:04:34,360 --> 00:04:38,040 displays more variety than taste. What do you think of that remark? 65 00:04:38,040 --> 00:04:41,360 I think taste is in the eye of the beholder, really. 66 00:04:41,360 --> 00:04:45,440 I actually think it's really nice to look at, so I'd disagree with that. 67 00:04:45,440 --> 00:04:48,000 I think the variety actually adds to the taste, really. 68 00:04:48,000 --> 00:04:50,720 It makes it quite unique and different. Definitely. 69 00:04:50,720 --> 00:04:53,160 What do you think of the pavilion here in Brighton? 70 00:04:53,160 --> 00:04:57,440 I am Italian, we usually have good taste like French. 71 00:04:57,440 --> 00:04:58,840 And I think that... 72 00:04:58,840 --> 00:05:02,240 so mixing things, not very good taste. 73 00:05:04,760 --> 00:05:07,080 I think that the outside is beautiful 74 00:05:07,080 --> 00:05:09,680 but the inside is a bit eclectic. 75 00:05:09,680 --> 00:05:12,600 It's just like a mishmash of styles. 76 00:05:14,160 --> 00:05:17,480 I'm going inside to find out more about this extraordinary 77 00:05:17,480 --> 00:05:20,680 building from Alexandra Loske. 78 00:05:20,680 --> 00:05:22,920 Alexandra, I think this is the most exotic, 79 00:05:22,920 --> 00:05:25,960 not to say, over-the-top building that I have ever been in. 80 00:05:25,960 --> 00:05:28,160 What made the prince regent - George IV - 81 00:05:28,160 --> 00:05:29,920 choose Brighton for his residence? 82 00:05:29,920 --> 00:05:31,920 Well, he came down as a very young man, 83 00:05:31,920 --> 00:05:37,120 the young prince of Wales in 1783, really to get away from London. 84 00:05:37,120 --> 00:05:40,920 He rented a farm house, substantial house, which was on this site 85 00:05:40,920 --> 00:05:45,040 and later transformed it into this exotic, 86 00:05:45,040 --> 00:05:47,320 Indian-looking building. 87 00:05:47,320 --> 00:05:50,160 And of course the architect of that was the famous John Nash. 88 00:05:50,160 --> 00:05:52,800 That's extraordinary because I associate John Nash with 89 00:05:52,800 --> 00:05:56,400 the very symmetrical buildings of Regents Park, 90 00:05:56,400 --> 00:05:58,920 Buckingham Palace and so on. 91 00:05:58,920 --> 00:06:01,000 This was his walk on the wild side. 92 00:06:01,000 --> 00:06:04,360 It was, both for John Nash and for King George IV. 93 00:06:04,360 --> 00:06:07,600 This was a place away from London where you could, you know, 94 00:06:07,600 --> 00:06:09,640 let your imagination run wild. 95 00:06:09,640 --> 00:06:12,880 I don't think this building could have been built in London. 96 00:06:12,880 --> 00:06:15,640 Brighton suited George's louche lifestyle. 97 00:06:15,640 --> 00:06:17,800 With a passion for fashion, the arts 98 00:06:17,800 --> 00:06:21,400 and good living, he was a rebel against his strict upbringing. 99 00:06:21,400 --> 00:06:24,280 He threw himself with enthusiasm into drinking, 100 00:06:24,280 --> 00:06:26,600 gambling and womanising. 101 00:06:26,600 --> 00:06:28,520 Was he able to enjoy the building? 102 00:06:28,520 --> 00:06:32,080 He did, he used it really for entertaining. 103 00:06:32,080 --> 00:06:36,040 And you can tell by the way the building looks and how it's laid out, 104 00:06:36,040 --> 00:06:38,000 that it was really a party palace. 105 00:06:38,000 --> 00:06:41,040 The extraordinary style - what were the inspirations for it? 106 00:06:41,040 --> 00:06:44,760 Well, the inspirations were India, any exotic country, 107 00:06:44,760 --> 00:06:46,240 mostly the Far East 108 00:06:46,240 --> 00:06:49,040 and that was fashionable, so he wasn't alone in this. 109 00:06:49,040 --> 00:06:52,920 It's a style called orientalism or chinoiserie 110 00:06:52,920 --> 00:06:56,320 and it was hugely popular in the mid-18th century 111 00:06:56,320 --> 00:07:00,040 but nobody did it on this scale. 112 00:07:00,040 --> 00:07:06,680 So this was a fantasy vision of the east, as imagined by the Europeans. 113 00:07:06,680 --> 00:07:08,560 At the ceiling here we have, 114 00:07:08,560 --> 00:07:13,000 supposedly holding this gigantic chandelier, a dragon. 115 00:07:13,000 --> 00:07:17,200 And of course, you associate China with dragons 116 00:07:17,200 --> 00:07:19,640 But if you look closely, it's actually a Welsh dragon. 117 00:07:19,640 --> 00:07:23,760 It's what the artist knew about dragons. 118 00:07:23,760 --> 00:07:26,600 Very few people had solid knowledge about the Orient 119 00:07:26,600 --> 00:07:29,720 and Chinese mythology and symbolism. 120 00:07:31,680 --> 00:07:35,320 George IV did not have long to enjoy his pleasure dome, 121 00:07:35,320 --> 00:07:38,960 which was completed in 1823. 122 00:07:38,960 --> 00:07:41,360 Perhaps his extravagant lifestyle caught up with him 123 00:07:41,360 --> 00:07:44,000 and his health failed. 124 00:07:44,000 --> 00:07:47,160 His last visit to Brighton was in 1827 125 00:07:47,160 --> 00:07:48,720 and he died three years later. 126 00:07:50,720 --> 00:07:54,440 In 1837 the Victorian era begins. 127 00:07:54,440 --> 00:07:57,320 How did the young queen take to this building? 128 00:07:57,320 --> 00:07:59,520 Well she comes just a few months after her coronation, 129 00:07:59,520 --> 00:08:01,560 she's still only 18. 130 00:08:01,560 --> 00:08:06,040 And she has mixed... mixed feelings and views on the building 131 00:08:06,040 --> 00:08:08,680 but it's probably best to tell you more about this in her 132 00:08:08,680 --> 00:08:12,360 private apartments here in the building. Excellent. 133 00:08:12,360 --> 00:08:16,000 George IV's palace by the sea expressed one man's 134 00:08:16,000 --> 00:08:19,240 personal taste for Oriental splendour. 135 00:08:19,240 --> 00:08:21,040 It was too flamboyant 136 00:08:21,040 --> 00:08:24,920 and too much associated with decadence for Queen Victoria. 137 00:08:24,920 --> 00:08:28,200 So here we are in Queen Victoria's private apartments on the 138 00:08:28,200 --> 00:08:31,160 upper floor of the royal pavilion. Did she like Brighton? 139 00:08:31,160 --> 00:08:34,280 She tried to like it but it had various problems. 140 00:08:34,280 --> 00:08:36,720 The place was too small for her, 141 00:08:36,720 --> 00:08:41,080 certainly not good for a growing number of children. 142 00:08:41,080 --> 00:08:44,280 But it was mainly the lack of privacy here. 143 00:08:44,280 --> 00:08:46,840 And did the railways contribute to this loss of privacy? 144 00:08:46,840 --> 00:08:50,200 Of course, absolutely. Because from 1841 145 00:08:50,200 --> 00:08:52,920 when the line opens between London and Brighton, 146 00:08:52,920 --> 00:08:56,320 many, many more people come to Brighton on day trips. 147 00:08:56,320 --> 00:08:59,240 It's mostly Londoners and they can afford to now. 148 00:08:59,240 --> 00:09:03,320 It's quick, you can come for a day or a weekend, it's cheap 149 00:09:03,320 --> 00:09:06,640 and the place gets swarmed with ordinary people. 150 00:09:06,640 --> 00:09:09,800 And of course, Victoria does object to that. 151 00:09:09,800 --> 00:09:12,560 Did the Queen herself use the train to come to Brighton? 152 00:09:12,560 --> 00:09:14,240 She did at least once. 153 00:09:14,240 --> 00:09:16,480 On the way down she likes the comfort 154 00:09:16,480 --> 00:09:18,720 of the saloon she's travelling in. 155 00:09:18,720 --> 00:09:20,400 On the return journey she says, 156 00:09:20,400 --> 00:09:23,400 "Oh, it only took us an hour and six minutes. 157 00:09:23,400 --> 00:09:25,600 "This is rather too quick, I think". 158 00:09:25,600 --> 00:09:29,280 Yeah, Queen Victoria did not like fast-moving trains. 159 00:09:29,280 --> 00:09:31,320 But then came the final straw. 160 00:09:31,320 --> 00:09:34,200 On her last visit here in 1845, 161 00:09:34,200 --> 00:09:38,240 Victoria and Albert went for a walk incognito. 162 00:09:38,240 --> 00:09:41,320 Word got around that the royal couple were on the pier. 163 00:09:41,320 --> 00:09:45,160 The Illustrated London News reported the story. 164 00:09:45,160 --> 00:09:48,120 "As the royal pair approached Castle Square the crowd 165 00:09:48,120 --> 00:09:49,840 "pressed forward more closely 166 00:09:49,840 --> 00:09:54,320 "and some errant boys rudely peered beneath her Majesty's bonnet". 167 00:09:54,320 --> 00:09:56,320 How frightful. It is a bit. 168 00:09:56,320 --> 00:10:00,640 And then Victoria writes a letter to somebody saying, "The people in 169 00:10:00,640 --> 00:10:03,680 "Brighton are terribly indiscreet 170 00:10:03,680 --> 00:10:06,680 "and it feels very much like a prison here." 171 00:10:06,680 --> 00:10:10,120 She sells the entire estate here in Brighton - and the buildings - 172 00:10:10,120 --> 00:10:15,160 in 1850 to the town of Brighton. 173 00:10:15,160 --> 00:10:17,240 After Queen Victoria abandoned Brighton 174 00:10:17,240 --> 00:10:19,920 and sought privacy on the Isle of Wight, 175 00:10:19,920 --> 00:10:22,160 the hoi polloi continued to delight in 176 00:10:22,160 --> 00:10:24,880 the pleasures of this seaside town. 177 00:10:24,880 --> 00:10:27,760 This is my guidebook's description of Brighton, 178 00:10:27,760 --> 00:10:31,080 "Pleasure seekers out for the day and eager to be ubiquitous, 179 00:10:31,080 --> 00:10:34,480 "hurrying to and fro, through the market to the spa, 180 00:10:34,480 --> 00:10:35,840 "to the racecourse, 181 00:10:35,840 --> 00:10:39,400 "the windmill, the beach, the shops, and the chain pier, 182 00:10:39,400 --> 00:10:44,280 "in as rapid succession as the most ingenious locomotion could devise." 183 00:10:44,280 --> 00:10:48,280 Some of the attractions have changed but the nature of Brighton hasn't. 184 00:10:50,040 --> 00:10:53,360 But my Bradshaw's reveals another layer to this town. 185 00:10:55,040 --> 00:10:57,480 Here's a change of tone in my guidebook. 186 00:10:57,480 --> 00:11:00,400 "A twang of saltiness greets the lip" 187 00:11:00,400 --> 00:11:04,520 There is another Brighton burrowing beneath the royal palace 188 00:11:04,520 --> 00:11:08,200 and my journey today will take me from the sublime to the slime. 189 00:11:12,920 --> 00:11:16,080 The rapid expansion of towns such as Brighton 190 00:11:16,080 --> 00:11:19,800 demanded wonders from Victorian engineers. 191 00:11:19,800 --> 00:11:23,000 Some of the most impressive are hidden deep underground. 192 00:11:26,400 --> 00:11:31,200 I'm descending into the sludgy, Victorian bowels of the earth. 193 00:11:31,200 --> 00:11:33,760 'To meet Stuart Slark to find out more.' 194 00:11:36,880 --> 00:11:39,480 Stuart, what a charming place to meet. 195 00:11:39,480 --> 00:11:41,160 Turn our stomachs a bit, 196 00:11:41,160 --> 00:11:44,160 what was Brighton like before it had a sewerage system? 197 00:11:44,160 --> 00:11:47,200 Very bad, very smelly because all they used to do in the old days, 198 00:11:47,200 --> 00:11:49,480 they used to drain it to the top of the beach. 199 00:11:49,480 --> 00:11:51,680 So at the beginning of the 19th century, 200 00:11:51,680 --> 00:11:53,880 tourists would come down to Brighton and find what? 201 00:11:53,880 --> 00:11:58,000 A lot of messy stuff all over the beach, it was disgusting. Absolutely disgusting and smelly. 202 00:11:58,000 --> 00:12:00,560 And so what was it that the Victorians did about it? 203 00:12:00,560 --> 00:12:02,640 Well, they built these magnificent sewers 204 00:12:02,640 --> 00:12:04,320 that you're going to see today. 205 00:12:04,320 --> 00:12:07,720 A wonderful piece of engineering from Sir John Hawkshaw. 206 00:12:07,720 --> 00:12:10,400 Can we go and witness this glorious Victorian engineering? 207 00:12:10,400 --> 00:12:14,240 Of course you can, come with me. Thank you. That's it. 208 00:12:14,240 --> 00:12:18,400 44 miles of sewers were constructed in 1865 209 00:12:18,400 --> 00:12:20,720 followed by this enormous intercepting sewer, 210 00:12:20,720 --> 00:12:22,800 completed in 1874, 211 00:12:22,800 --> 00:12:26,120 which took the waste water out of the town altogether. 212 00:12:26,120 --> 00:12:28,840 Stewart that was a very slippery and slithery tunnel 213 00:12:28,840 --> 00:12:31,920 but now we come into this magnificent vault! 214 00:12:31,920 --> 00:12:35,480 I mean the engineering here! The scale of it! Fantastic! 215 00:12:35,480 --> 00:12:37,920 Yeah, this is... we are now 40 feet underground. 216 00:12:37,920 --> 00:12:40,880 We're right by the side of the steam fountain in Brighton. 217 00:12:40,880 --> 00:12:43,520 You've got the Victorian sewer running down the side. 218 00:12:43,520 --> 00:12:46,960 Also, we have got two big sewers coming down into this, 219 00:12:46,960 --> 00:12:51,040 that when they have heavy rain, it will overflow into where we 220 00:12:51,040 --> 00:12:54,440 are standing and then go down these two barrels behind us 221 00:12:54,440 --> 00:12:56,520 towards the sea. 222 00:12:56,520 --> 00:12:58,720 Wait a minute, so we're standing here... 223 00:12:58,720 --> 00:13:01,360 What happens if that overflows while we're standing here? 224 00:13:01,360 --> 00:13:03,760 We'll have the ride of our life down those tunnels. 225 00:13:03,760 --> 00:13:06,240 It would be better than your train journeys. 226 00:13:06,240 --> 00:13:08,520 Frankly, has this been over-engineered? 227 00:13:08,520 --> 00:13:11,080 For some unknown reason they really went to town on this. 228 00:13:11,080 --> 00:13:13,160 They over engineered it 229 00:13:13,160 --> 00:13:16,640 and even to this day, it still copes with the present 230 00:13:16,640 --> 00:13:19,880 climate of the heavy rains that we're getting now. 231 00:13:19,880 --> 00:13:24,160 So I understand that this has been built to last for 500 years. 232 00:13:24,160 --> 00:13:26,960 And how does it actually work? Because I don't see any motors. 233 00:13:26,960 --> 00:13:30,200 I don't see where there would have been a steam engine. What's the power? 234 00:13:30,200 --> 00:13:34,320 It's all gravity-fed. Normally, it's falling down one foot per mile 235 00:13:34,320 --> 00:13:36,920 for seven and a quarter miles down to Portobello. 236 00:13:36,920 --> 00:13:40,800 And that pleasant sound of tinkling water, 237 00:13:40,800 --> 00:13:43,840 is actually the sound of Brighton's sewerage going past, is it? 238 00:13:43,840 --> 00:13:46,680 That is correct, yes. Everything else coming down as well, yeah. 239 00:13:46,680 --> 00:13:49,960 I had no idea that sewage had such a sweet tinkle to it. 240 00:13:55,520 --> 00:13:59,640 Brighton needs its sewers, as society needs politicians. 241 00:14:03,120 --> 00:14:06,360 Now it's time for me to return to Brighton station 242 00:14:06,360 --> 00:14:08,080 to travel on to my next stop. 243 00:14:20,800 --> 00:14:24,640 My overnight rest will be in Bramber. Bradshaw's tells me that, 244 00:14:24,640 --> 00:14:28,480 "It's, a place of no particular note beyond the remains of a castle, 245 00:14:28,480 --> 00:14:31,360 "which dates from about the time of the conquest." 246 00:14:31,360 --> 00:14:34,200 Still, shortly after this guidebook was written, 247 00:14:34,200 --> 00:14:37,080 tourists were flocking in by train. 248 00:14:45,360 --> 00:14:51,480 Bramber station closed in 1966 as a result of the Beeching axe. 249 00:14:51,480 --> 00:14:54,120 So I'm disembarking at nearby Shoreham 250 00:14:54,120 --> 00:14:57,640 and travelling up to what remains of Bramber's Norman castle 251 00:14:57,640 --> 00:15:01,200 to meet museum curator Chris Tod. 252 00:15:01,200 --> 00:15:03,240 Hello, Michael. Good to see you. 253 00:15:03,240 --> 00:15:06,080 What was it that brought the tourists in their large numbers? 254 00:15:06,080 --> 00:15:07,720 Well, there was the castle 255 00:15:07,720 --> 00:15:11,200 and subsequent to Bradshaw's publication, 256 00:15:11,200 --> 00:15:15,440 there was a museum of taxidermy known as Potter's Museum. 257 00:15:15,440 --> 00:15:19,280 Taxidermy was very popular with Victorians but why would it merit a museum? 258 00:15:19,280 --> 00:15:21,680 Well, he had a twist on it. 259 00:15:21,680 --> 00:15:27,400 He created tableaux telling stories with numerous different animals. 260 00:15:27,400 --> 00:15:29,280 Mimicking either a poem 261 00:15:29,280 --> 00:15:33,960 in the case of Who Killed Cock Robin or a rabbit's schoolroom 262 00:15:33,960 --> 00:15:36,240 or a kitten's croquet party. 263 00:15:36,240 --> 00:15:39,600 Some of which had mechanical bits which you could activate. 264 00:15:39,600 --> 00:15:42,240 Tell me what Bramber was like when these waves of tourists 265 00:15:42,240 --> 00:15:44,080 were descending upon it. 266 00:15:44,080 --> 00:15:46,320 The tourists came by train, there was 267 00:15:46,320 --> 00:15:50,760 the line running from Shoreham to Horsham which stopped at Bramber 268 00:15:50,760 --> 00:15:54,560 and they constructed an extra-long platform at Bramber, 269 00:15:54,560 --> 00:15:57,800 so that they could take an extra couple of coaches. 270 00:15:57,800 --> 00:15:59,880 Well, I'm staying tonight at the Castle, 271 00:15:59,880 --> 00:16:02,160 is that one of your historic inns? 272 00:16:02,160 --> 00:16:05,560 It is, its history goes back, as far as we know, to Tudor times 273 00:16:05,560 --> 00:16:10,480 but in the mid-19th century when its name was still different - it was called the White Lion - 274 00:16:10,480 --> 00:16:14,160 Walter Potter's father, James Potter, ran it 275 00:16:14,160 --> 00:16:17,280 and Walter Potter was a servant at the inn. 276 00:16:17,280 --> 00:16:20,400 I will potter off. Very good. Thank you. Nice seeing you. 277 00:16:24,320 --> 00:16:28,080 Potter's museum of taxidermy has long since closed. 278 00:16:28,080 --> 00:16:30,840 'But the Castle Hotel is just the place 279 00:16:30,840 --> 00:16:32,800 'for a generously-stuffed pillow.' 280 00:16:34,800 --> 00:16:36,040 Good evening. 281 00:16:42,800 --> 00:16:44,840 It's the final day of my journey 282 00:16:44,840 --> 00:16:47,120 and I'm heading back to Shoreham Station. 283 00:17:00,240 --> 00:17:03,120 My first stop today will be Arundel. 284 00:17:03,120 --> 00:17:07,200 I'm told that, "It's situated on the declivity of a steep hill. 285 00:17:07,200 --> 00:17:09,320 "At the foot, runs the river Arun, 286 00:17:09,320 --> 00:17:12,600 "over which is built a handsome stone bridge. 287 00:17:12,600 --> 00:17:15,480 "The appearance of the town with its stately castle 288 00:17:15,480 --> 00:17:19,160 "and winding river is singularly beautiful." 289 00:17:19,160 --> 00:17:22,840 As I near the end of my journey, my eyes are going to feast. 290 00:17:34,760 --> 00:17:40,480 Arundel can thank the Duke of Norfolk for its railway station. 291 00:17:40,480 --> 00:17:43,840 The Howards' impressive castle overlooking the Arun river 292 00:17:43,840 --> 00:17:45,960 was begun in 1068 293 00:17:45,960 --> 00:17:48,960 and partially destroyed during the English Civil War. 294 00:17:52,680 --> 00:17:55,080 The family rebuilt in the 19th century 295 00:17:55,080 --> 00:17:58,040 in this Victorian Gothic style. 296 00:17:58,040 --> 00:18:03,440 I'm starting my tour in the library with my guide, Brenda Thompson. 297 00:18:03,440 --> 00:18:06,080 What a beautiful library, Brenda. 298 00:18:06,080 --> 00:18:08,520 The restorations that my Bradshaw's are referring to - 299 00:18:08,520 --> 00:18:11,680 those before, say, 1864 - 300 00:18:11,680 --> 00:18:13,960 these were various dukes restoring, 301 00:18:13,960 --> 00:18:16,440 in inverted commas, to a gothic style? 302 00:18:16,440 --> 00:18:20,080 Yes, yes. Starting probably with our 11th duke, 303 00:18:20,080 --> 00:18:22,840 he was the man who also built this beautiful library. 304 00:18:22,840 --> 00:18:24,720 Took about 13 years to complete. 305 00:18:24,720 --> 00:18:26,560 How many books does it have? 306 00:18:26,560 --> 00:18:28,520 We have 10,000 in here. 307 00:18:28,520 --> 00:18:31,560 I'm very interested in the doings of Queen Victoria. 308 00:18:31,560 --> 00:18:33,480 Did she get to visit the castle? 309 00:18:33,480 --> 00:18:36,560 Yes, she did, in 1846 with Prince Albert. 310 00:18:36,560 --> 00:18:40,560 They had... they were given two years' notice that she was coming 311 00:18:40,560 --> 00:18:42,320 so they had time to prepare. 312 00:18:42,320 --> 00:18:44,240 And so this room in particular, 313 00:18:44,240 --> 00:18:47,520 all the red furnishing was put in for her visit. 314 00:18:47,520 --> 00:18:50,240 They had some furniture made for the state bedroom, 315 00:18:50,240 --> 00:18:53,400 they also put some little stoves along the picture gallery 316 00:18:53,400 --> 00:18:55,960 because they thought she might get a bit chilly. 317 00:18:55,960 --> 00:18:58,160 Did the queen enjoy her visit? 318 00:18:58,160 --> 00:19:00,920 Yes, I believe so because we have copies of her diaries. 319 00:19:00,920 --> 00:19:03,040 A couple of things she thought a little boring 320 00:19:03,040 --> 00:19:07,200 and she thought her rooms were very comfortable, but rather small. 321 00:19:07,200 --> 00:19:11,880 It's wonderful to have the frankness of Queen Victoria's diaries. Yes. 322 00:19:11,880 --> 00:19:14,320 Then there was a huge restoration, wasn't there? 323 00:19:14,320 --> 00:19:17,320 Well, Duke Henry, decided to continue the restoration work, 324 00:19:17,320 --> 00:19:19,200 enlarge the castle and he 325 00:19:19,200 --> 00:19:22,400 wanted it all in this Gothic style so it had this flow throughout. 326 00:19:24,480 --> 00:19:27,920 All this work was made far easier by the proximity of the railways, 327 00:19:27,920 --> 00:19:33,000 allowing building materials to be transported from the nearby station. 328 00:19:33,000 --> 00:19:35,840 The duke did some very progressive renovations here, 329 00:19:35,840 --> 00:19:39,720 including a steam-pumped water supply, central heating, 330 00:19:39,720 --> 00:19:44,400 a hydraulic lift and 1,000 electric light bulbs. 331 00:19:44,400 --> 00:19:47,720 A great supporter of the railways, the duke was happy for the line 332 00:19:47,720 --> 00:19:53,120 to cross his land as long as the timetable met his convenience. 333 00:19:53,120 --> 00:19:56,680 He made sure all the trains stopped here in case he wanted to go to London. 334 00:19:56,680 --> 00:19:59,600 I think you can divide the dukes of the 19th century into two sorts - 335 00:19:59,600 --> 00:20:02,040 those opposed to railways and those who were in favour of them 336 00:20:02,040 --> 00:20:06,720 but they all liked the train to stop where they wanted it. Exactly. 337 00:20:06,720 --> 00:20:09,320 I know the train won't wait for me, 338 00:20:09,320 --> 00:20:11,600 so I must be at the station in time to catch 339 00:20:11,600 --> 00:20:14,200 the last train of this journey. 340 00:20:27,920 --> 00:20:29,880 I'm now approaching my last stop, 341 00:20:29,880 --> 00:20:32,080 Chichester, which Bradshaw's tells me, 342 00:20:32,080 --> 00:20:35,000 "Is an old town on the square Roman plan. 343 00:20:35,000 --> 00:20:39,440 "It's a clean and neatly-built cathedral city." And so my journey 344 00:20:39,440 --> 00:20:43,480 that began in Norwich has taken me from one cathedral to another. 345 00:21:02,880 --> 00:21:05,320 Well, I've made a long journey to see this wonder 346 00:21:05,320 --> 00:21:06,920 and I'm not disappointed. 347 00:21:06,920 --> 00:21:09,720 It has a slender refinement to it. 348 00:21:09,720 --> 00:21:13,160 Bradshaw's tells me that it was built in the 12th century. 349 00:21:13,160 --> 00:21:18,040 It's 377ft long including the Lady Chapel here. 350 00:21:18,040 --> 00:21:21,200 Norman and Early English work prevail. 351 00:21:21,200 --> 00:21:25,360 The fine eight-sided spire is 300 feet high. 352 00:21:25,360 --> 00:21:30,320 In fact, the spire collapsed dramatically in 1861, was rebuilt 353 00:21:30,320 --> 00:21:34,840 by the architect Gilbert Scott with a donation from Queen Victoria. 354 00:21:37,360 --> 00:21:40,440 An event in the British social calendar draws 355 00:21:40,440 --> 00:21:43,640 thousands of visitors every summer. 356 00:21:43,640 --> 00:21:47,280 To find out more, I'm heading up into the South Downs 357 00:21:47,280 --> 00:21:51,520 to a ducal estate with long-standing passions for fast horses, 358 00:21:51,520 --> 00:21:53,920 and fast cars - Goodwood. 359 00:21:56,160 --> 00:22:00,280 It all started with the first Duke of Richmond's passion for hunting. 360 00:22:00,280 --> 00:22:03,760 These splendid kennels for foxhounds were built by the third duke. 361 00:22:03,760 --> 00:22:07,840 I'm meeting Hilary Sloan to find out more. 362 00:22:07,840 --> 00:22:10,200 Hello, Hilary! Hello, Michael. 363 00:22:10,200 --> 00:22:12,040 Erm, Bradshaw's tells me 364 00:22:12,040 --> 00:22:15,120 about horse racing here in July at Goodwood. 365 00:22:15,120 --> 00:22:16,920 But we're meeting by some kennels. 366 00:22:16,920 --> 00:22:19,800 How do we move from fox hunting to horse racing? 367 00:22:19,800 --> 00:22:22,440 Well, the third duke was passionate about horses. 368 00:22:22,440 --> 00:22:25,080 He'd been exercising his own horses 369 00:22:25,080 --> 00:22:29,760 on the sands down at Itchener close by since 1783. 370 00:22:29,760 --> 00:22:32,400 And in 1801 he was asked 371 00:22:32,400 --> 00:22:36,720 if the Sussex militia could exercise their horses up on the Harrowway, 372 00:22:36,720 --> 00:22:40,320 which is where the horse racing still takes place today. 373 00:22:40,320 --> 00:22:44,160 This was such a great success, this private meeting. 374 00:22:44,160 --> 00:22:46,960 1802, he established the first public meeting 375 00:22:46,960 --> 00:22:49,000 and the rest really is history. 376 00:22:51,080 --> 00:22:53,920 For the best outlook on the racecourse, Hilary takes me 377 00:22:53,920 --> 00:22:56,040 up to a viewpoint known as the Trundle. 378 00:22:57,440 --> 00:22:59,600 A glorious view of Glorious Goodwood. 379 00:22:59,600 --> 00:23:01,840 Who would have had this view in the 19th century? 380 00:23:01,840 --> 00:23:04,640 It was most definitely both sides of society. 381 00:23:04,640 --> 00:23:07,520 Royalty, aristocracy and 382 00:23:07,520 --> 00:23:11,000 the locals and even Londoners and people from Brighton. 383 00:23:11,000 --> 00:23:13,000 Now if you're up here, 384 00:23:13,000 --> 00:23:15,640 viewing the races for nothing you are not only looking down on 385 00:23:15,640 --> 00:23:19,200 horse racing, you are looking down on the British establishment, weren't you? 386 00:23:19,200 --> 00:23:22,280 Most definitely and this was the place, the favourite 387 00:23:22,280 --> 00:23:27,040 playground for the Prince of Wales who later became Edward VII. 388 00:23:27,040 --> 00:23:30,840 What did Queen Victoria think of his racing passion? 389 00:23:30,840 --> 00:23:33,800 Ah, well I get the feeling she was not amused, 390 00:23:33,800 --> 00:23:38,320 horse racing did not interest her at all and of course she felt that 391 00:23:38,320 --> 00:23:43,680 her son - often called Bertie - was playing around a little too much. 392 00:23:43,680 --> 00:23:47,040 How did the hoi polloi on the Trundle 393 00:23:47,040 --> 00:23:48,760 and the establishment down there, 394 00:23:48,760 --> 00:23:51,800 how did they make their way to the racecourse, I hope they came by train? 395 00:23:51,800 --> 00:23:54,040 Well, of course, let's talk about the royalty first. 396 00:23:54,040 --> 00:23:56,280 The prince of Wales, he would arrive on the train, 397 00:23:56,280 --> 00:23:58,280 the London Brighton and South Coast railway. 398 00:23:58,280 --> 00:24:00,320 But he wouldn't come in to Chichester, 399 00:24:00,320 --> 00:24:05,280 he would stop at a halt called Drayton, about two miles to the east of Chichester. 400 00:24:05,280 --> 00:24:09,000 And the etiquette would be that the Duke of Richmond would have arranged 401 00:24:09,000 --> 00:24:11,200 for a carriage to go and collect him. 402 00:24:11,200 --> 00:24:13,520 He even went to the trouble of watering the road 403 00:24:13,520 --> 00:24:17,920 between Goodwood and Drayton to make sure there'd be no dust in the way. 404 00:24:19,200 --> 00:24:22,880 The plebeian hordes would trudge up to the Trundle from the station 405 00:24:22,880 --> 00:24:26,520 and gaze upon the grandees from this vantage point. 406 00:24:26,520 --> 00:24:30,000 I'm getting the impression that Goodwood's always evolving. 407 00:24:30,000 --> 00:24:32,840 It started with fox-hunting then there was horse racing, 408 00:24:32,840 --> 00:24:34,880 why does it keep changing? 409 00:24:34,880 --> 00:24:36,680 This is really something of the passions, 410 00:24:36,680 --> 00:24:39,880 the different passions of our various dukes 411 00:24:39,880 --> 00:24:42,960 and by the time of the 20th century 412 00:24:42,960 --> 00:24:47,360 our 9th Duke of Richmond was mad keen on everything to do with motor racing, 413 00:24:47,360 --> 00:24:53,560 and that was the start of the motor passions here at Goodwood 414 00:24:53,560 --> 00:24:56,320 So these days the Goodwood estate also draws 415 00:24:56,320 --> 00:24:59,880 the crowds for a different type of horse power... 416 00:24:59,880 --> 00:25:02,480 Chris Taylor is going to fill me in. 417 00:25:02,480 --> 00:25:05,920 How's it going. Hello there. It's going very well. Good. 418 00:25:05,920 --> 00:25:09,600 I've been thinking about the horse racing here, but now 419 00:25:09,600 --> 00:25:13,440 you have a motor circuit too, how did Goodwood make the transition? 420 00:25:13,440 --> 00:25:16,480 The airfield was set up to be a fighter base during the Second World War 421 00:25:16,480 --> 00:25:20,360 and afterwards when all the planes had gone, the Duke of Richmond was 422 00:25:20,360 --> 00:25:23,200 driving round here with a friend and the friend said to him, 423 00:25:23,200 --> 00:25:27,360 "I say, old chap this place would make a jolly fine motor circuit, don't you know?" 424 00:25:27,360 --> 00:25:31,640 The first meeting in 1948 here, was the first meeting, 425 00:25:31,640 --> 00:25:34,280 first race meeting, after the war in all of the UK. 426 00:25:34,280 --> 00:25:37,400 And now you have these great gatherings, don't you? What are they called? 427 00:25:37,400 --> 00:25:40,680 You're talking about the Goodwood revival, which is the race 428 00:25:40,680 --> 00:25:44,920 meeting which has been set up by the Earl of March to recreate 429 00:25:44,920 --> 00:25:47,760 the races that took place between the '50s and '60s. 430 00:25:47,760 --> 00:25:51,600 So it's the same cars, in some cases with the same drivers 431 00:25:51,600 --> 00:25:54,480 and everybody dresses up in period gear. 432 00:25:54,480 --> 00:25:57,720 All the cars that are on site are pre-66. 433 00:25:57,720 --> 00:25:59,960 I mean, if you were to parachute in here, 434 00:25:59,960 --> 00:26:03,000 during the meeting you'd think you'd fallen in another world. 435 00:26:03,000 --> 00:26:05,920 I have actually attended. I came as a teddy boy, I... 436 00:26:05,920 --> 00:26:07,400 I'd like to have seen that... 437 00:26:07,400 --> 00:26:10,520 Yeah, I had winkle picker shoes and I had side burns painted on with 438 00:26:10,520 --> 00:26:13,160 cork of course and masses of attitude. 439 00:26:13,160 --> 00:26:14,960 And did you feel that you fitted in? 440 00:26:14,960 --> 00:26:16,960 Yeah, no it was a great day out. 441 00:26:16,960 --> 00:26:18,880 What is this lovely machine? 442 00:26:18,880 --> 00:26:21,520 This is your original cops and robbers car, 443 00:26:21,520 --> 00:26:25,160 It's a Mark 2 Jaguar 3.8 litre. First of all the baddies bought them 444 00:26:25,160 --> 00:26:28,000 and then the police all had to go out and buy them to keep up with them 445 00:26:28,000 --> 00:26:31,600 and in those days it must have seemed like an absolute rocket ship! 446 00:26:32,720 --> 00:26:34,440 Do you mind if I take it for a spin? 447 00:26:34,440 --> 00:26:36,680 Put your seat belt on. OK. 448 00:26:36,680 --> 00:26:39,640 Just put Bradshaw in the back. 449 00:26:39,640 --> 00:26:41,160 Right, let's go. 450 00:26:41,160 --> 00:26:43,800 You're not going to scare me, are you? 451 00:26:43,800 --> 00:26:45,240 Fasten your seat belt. 452 00:26:49,120 --> 00:26:53,160 Chris gives me an accelerated course to get me up to speed. 453 00:26:53,160 --> 00:26:55,680 OK, so this is the main straight, or the pit straight. 454 00:26:55,680 --> 00:26:58,240 The first corner we come to is a right hander. 455 00:26:58,240 --> 00:27:01,720 So the thing about driving on a race circuit is always be looking ahead 456 00:27:01,720 --> 00:27:03,760 OK, first corner's a right hander. 457 00:27:03,760 --> 00:27:07,520 Ease over to the left and keep your hands at the quarter to... 458 00:27:07,520 --> 00:27:09,040 that's it, perfect. 459 00:27:09,040 --> 00:27:11,080 Sign there saying brake, tiny bit of brake. 460 00:27:11,080 --> 00:27:12,880 Tiny bit of brake, now back on the power. 461 00:27:12,880 --> 00:27:16,120 Cos that balances the car and you're driving through the corner 462 00:27:16,120 --> 00:27:18,160 rather than rolling through the corner 463 00:27:18,160 --> 00:27:20,320 and the car will feel much more stable. 464 00:27:20,320 --> 00:27:22,360 You know, down the straight in the revival, 465 00:27:22,360 --> 00:27:24,480 they're doing 180mph. 466 00:27:24,480 --> 00:27:28,920 I can't believe it. I'm touching just over 60 now and enjoying it. 467 00:27:28,920 --> 00:27:31,560 Come on, that was 70, come on. Ha, ha, ha! 468 00:27:31,560 --> 00:27:34,280 And what do you think Bertie, the man who became Edward VII, 469 00:27:34,280 --> 00:27:38,040 what would he have thought of this? He was a good racy fellow, wasn't he? 470 00:27:38,040 --> 00:27:41,120 Oh, he would have absolutely loved it and you know it's a shame 471 00:27:41,120 --> 00:27:44,160 you can't bring those guys back and say hey, have a look at this. 472 00:27:44,160 --> 00:27:46,760 How much fun is this? You know, your horses are fine 473 00:27:46,760 --> 00:27:48,440 but isn't this fun too? 474 00:27:48,440 --> 00:27:53,480 Superb. Though, I remain more of a rail anorak than a petrolhead. 475 00:27:54,920 --> 00:27:58,080 On this journey from Norwich to Chichester I've steered 476 00:27:58,080 --> 00:28:02,240 clear of the factories and chimney stacks of Bradshaw's Britain, 477 00:28:02,240 --> 00:28:06,720 focusing instead on country pursuits and places of pleasure. 478 00:28:06,720 --> 00:28:10,000 But the railways changed everything everywhere, 479 00:28:10,000 --> 00:28:13,480 making people physically and socially mobile. 480 00:28:13,480 --> 00:28:16,960 Monarchs and commoners alike travelled by train. 481 00:28:16,960 --> 00:28:20,240 And here at Goodwood, the masses could look down upon 482 00:28:20,240 --> 00:28:23,760 the royals as they enjoyed the sport of kings.