1 00:00:04,520 --> 00:00:08,640 For Victorian Britons, George Bradshaw was a household name. 2 00:00:09,760 --> 00:00:11,320 At a time when railways were new, 3 00:00:11,320 --> 00:00:15,760 Bradshaw's guidebook inspired them to take to the tracks. 4 00:00:15,760 --> 00:00:20,400 I'm using a Bradshaw's Guide to understand how trains 5 00:00:20,400 --> 00:00:24,520 transformed Britain - its landscape, its industry, 6 00:00:24,520 --> 00:00:26,640 society and leisure time. 7 00:00:26,640 --> 00:00:31,160 As I crisscross the country 150 years later, it helps me 8 00:00:31,160 --> 00:00:33,880 to discover the Britain of today. 9 00:00:56,640 --> 00:01:01,200 My journey this week will take me across Scotland from west to east. 10 00:01:01,200 --> 00:01:02,880 I began at the Firth of Clyde 11 00:01:02,880 --> 00:01:07,440 and am now heading through the Scottish Lowlands towards Glasgow. 12 00:01:07,440 --> 00:01:10,240 Then north to Stirling and Perth, 13 00:01:10,240 --> 00:01:12,920 close to where the kings of Scotland were crowned. 14 00:01:12,920 --> 00:01:16,800 I'll travel on east to Fife and the famous university town 15 00:01:16,800 --> 00:01:20,520 of St Andrews, finally heading south to Scotland's capital, 16 00:01:20,520 --> 00:01:22,080 where my journey ends. 17 00:01:23,800 --> 00:01:28,120 This leg begins at Clydeside's westernmost industrial town... 18 00:01:28,120 --> 00:01:29,440 crosses by paddle steamer 19 00:01:29,440 --> 00:01:33,360 to the Victorian holiday resort of Helensburgh. 20 00:01:33,360 --> 00:01:35,920 From there, it's on to the mighty city of Glasgow, 21 00:01:35,920 --> 00:01:40,320 before heading south to the former mining town of Blantyre. 22 00:01:40,320 --> 00:01:42,920 And my journey ends in Larkhall in South Lanarkshire. 23 00:01:45,680 --> 00:01:47,920 I meet a seagoing beauty... 24 00:01:47,920 --> 00:01:50,720 And she was the last of the Clydebuilt excursion 25 00:01:50,720 --> 00:01:52,360 paddle steamers to work on the Clyde. 26 00:01:52,360 --> 00:01:55,560 ..discover how a Victorian hero nearly met his end... 27 00:01:55,560 --> 00:01:57,200 LION ROARS AND WHIP CRACKS 28 00:01:58,760 --> 00:02:00,480 RIFLE BLASTS 29 00:02:00,480 --> 00:02:03,080 ..and rise to a bake-off challenge. 30 00:02:03,080 --> 00:02:07,600 There's always a point when a dough says to you that it's had enough. 31 00:02:07,600 --> 00:02:10,440 Oh. And I believe that was about two minutes ago. 32 00:02:10,440 --> 00:02:12,080 MICHAEL LAUGHS 33 00:02:23,160 --> 00:02:25,880 I'm continuing my journey across southern Scotland, 34 00:02:25,880 --> 00:02:28,560 which has now brought me to the area of Glasgow. 35 00:02:28,560 --> 00:02:31,840 A city which had a university in the 15th century, 36 00:02:31,840 --> 00:02:33,800 was a centre of The Enlightenment in the 18th, 37 00:02:33,800 --> 00:02:38,200 laid claim to being the second city of the British Empire 38 00:02:38,200 --> 00:02:42,080 in the 19th and then led in design and fashion. 39 00:02:42,080 --> 00:02:43,360 There's a clue in Bradshaw's 40 00:02:43,360 --> 00:02:46,440 to Glasgow's success in industrialisation. 41 00:02:46,440 --> 00:02:50,960 "At Bowling, near Dumbarton, is a pillar to the memory of Henry Bell, 42 00:02:50,960 --> 00:02:55,320 "who ran the first steamer on the Clyde, The Comet, in 1812." 43 00:02:55,320 --> 00:02:58,080 Incredibly early for a steam-powered vehicle, 44 00:02:58,080 --> 00:03:01,040 before the Napoleonic Wars had run their course. 45 00:03:01,040 --> 00:03:04,640 AUTOMATED VOICE: We are now approaching Greenock Central. 46 00:03:04,640 --> 00:03:07,080 Please mind the gap when alighting from this train. 47 00:03:15,440 --> 00:03:18,640 The impressive River Clyde is the heart of Glasgow. 48 00:03:20,080 --> 00:03:21,440 In Victorian times, 49 00:03:21,440 --> 00:03:25,120 the deepwater port was the centre of its great shipbuilding industry. 50 00:03:27,160 --> 00:03:29,960 The city made some of the world's greatest vessels, 51 00:03:29,960 --> 00:03:33,520 and also exported some of the finest railway rolling stock. 52 00:03:34,800 --> 00:03:38,000 I'm meeting local historian Stewart Noble to 53 00:03:38,000 --> 00:03:41,520 find out about the pioneering steamship Comet. 54 00:03:41,520 --> 00:03:44,040 Stewart, for me, with my interest in railways, 55 00:03:44,040 --> 00:03:49,840 it's kind of surprising that this took to the water in 1812! 56 00:03:49,840 --> 00:03:51,760 Long before railway locomotion. 57 00:03:51,760 --> 00:03:54,160 Because roads were in such bad condition 58 00:03:54,160 --> 00:03:58,760 and the River Clyde was only just navigable and no more, 59 00:03:58,760 --> 00:04:02,920 Henry Bell, the developer, the man who had the idea, he wanted to 60 00:04:02,920 --> 00:04:06,160 bring his guests in comfort and speed from Glasgow 61 00:04:06,160 --> 00:04:08,080 to his hotel in Helensburgh. 62 00:04:09,560 --> 00:04:15,120 Born in 1767, Bell trained as a stonemason before 63 00:04:15,120 --> 00:04:17,320 pioneering steampower in vessels. 64 00:04:17,320 --> 00:04:21,920 How did Henry Bell have the idea of putting a steam engine into a ship? 65 00:04:21,920 --> 00:04:24,000 Well, he was trained as a millwright, 66 00:04:24,000 --> 00:04:27,320 so he had a good idea of how machinery worked. 67 00:04:27,320 --> 00:04:32,680 He'd also seen steam engines working in industry and so on, and so because 68 00:04:32,680 --> 00:04:35,400 transport was so difficult between Glasgow 69 00:04:35,400 --> 00:04:37,040 and Helensburgh at that time, 70 00:04:37,040 --> 00:04:42,200 he decided to put a steam engine into a ship and had it 71 00:04:42,200 --> 00:04:45,760 built here in Port Glasgow, very close to where we're standing. 72 00:04:47,440 --> 00:04:51,040 Bell commissioned a local shipbuilder to construct 73 00:04:51,040 --> 00:04:55,440 a 25-ton wooden paddle steamer driven by 74 00:04:55,440 --> 00:04:59,040 a then-mighty three-horsepower engine to transport his hotel guests 75 00:04:59,040 --> 00:05:02,600 the 20 miles between Glasgow and Helensburgh. 76 00:05:03,840 --> 00:05:08,400 How successful was it against its more old-fashioned competition? 77 00:05:08,400 --> 00:05:10,960 It depends how you define success. It wasn't 78 00:05:10,960 --> 00:05:16,360 much faster than it could be coming by coach, it depended partly 79 00:05:16,360 --> 00:05:19,720 whether the tide and the wind were in favour of The Comet or not. 80 00:05:19,720 --> 00:05:21,720 But it was certainly more comfortable. 81 00:05:23,600 --> 00:05:27,960 Following Comet's maiden voyage in 1812, Bell inaugurated 82 00:05:27,960 --> 00:05:32,920 a regular passenger service between Glasgow, Greenock and Helensburgh. 83 00:05:32,920 --> 00:05:34,200 And in the following years, 84 00:05:34,200 --> 00:05:37,760 The Comet spawned a range of other steamships sailing on the Clyde. 85 00:05:39,320 --> 00:05:42,320 To celebrate The Comet, this replica was built. 86 00:05:44,480 --> 00:05:47,320 NEWSREEL MUSIC 87 00:05:47,320 --> 00:05:50,360 NEWSREADER: At Lithgow's Yard, thoughts would turn back 150 years 88 00:05:50,360 --> 00:05:53,120 to the day when Comet was launched. 89 00:05:53,120 --> 00:05:55,520 That was the name given to the first practical steamship 90 00:05:55,520 --> 00:05:57,000 to carry passengers. 91 00:05:59,520 --> 00:06:02,080 I wouldn't want to wound your Glasgow pride, 92 00:06:02,080 --> 00:06:04,680 but it's quite a small ship, why so? 93 00:06:04,680 --> 00:06:06,880 Well, ships weren't very big in those days, 94 00:06:06,880 --> 00:06:10,040 shipyards really were just places where people built boats 95 00:06:10,040 --> 00:06:15,960 on beaches, they weren't the big modern items we think of nowadays. 96 00:06:17,320 --> 00:06:20,840 While the replica is landlocked, happily, there is 97 00:06:20,840 --> 00:06:23,520 a paddle steamer still plying the old route. 98 00:06:24,560 --> 00:06:28,560 The Waverly has been crossing the Clyde for more than 60 years. 99 00:06:32,200 --> 00:06:35,000 Bradshaw's remarks that, "Any traveller, for pleasure, 100 00:06:35,000 --> 00:06:40,120 "who finds himself within Glasgow's smoky and dingy precincts in search 101 00:06:40,120 --> 00:06:43,040 "of the picturesque, the beautiful and the romantic, 102 00:06:43,040 --> 00:06:46,160 "has only to choose the first conveyance westward, 103 00:06:46,160 --> 00:06:50,520 "whether it be a Greenock train or a Clyde steamboat, 104 00:06:50,520 --> 00:06:52,840 "to find what he seeks and be gratified." 105 00:06:52,840 --> 00:06:56,880 And on a day like today, you can see what the book means. 106 00:06:56,880 --> 00:07:02,800 The industrial worker in the slums of Glasgow could escape to this 107 00:07:02,800 --> 00:07:06,440 magnificent waterscape if he or she had the price of the fare. 108 00:07:09,320 --> 00:07:11,640 PIPER PLAYS 109 00:07:13,000 --> 00:07:18,080 But back in 1975, The Waverly seemed destined for the shipbreaker's, 110 00:07:18,080 --> 00:07:23,240 until a charity rescued her in a deal that was sealed for £1. 111 00:07:23,240 --> 00:07:28,360 What an exciting moment - boarding a wonderful, beautiful paddle steamer. 112 00:07:28,360 --> 00:07:30,400 HORN BLARES 113 00:07:31,800 --> 00:07:33,400 A moment to savour, 114 00:07:33,400 --> 00:07:37,440 because she's the last seagoing paddle steamer in the world. 115 00:07:37,440 --> 00:07:41,720 Magnificently restored, with towering funnels and timber decks, 116 00:07:41,720 --> 00:07:47,120 it's a delight to feel the power of her steam engines beneath my feet. 117 00:07:47,120 --> 00:07:51,000 For those of us whose image of the Clyde is of shipbuilding yards, 118 00:07:51,000 --> 00:07:54,080 this vision is a great surprise. 119 00:07:54,080 --> 00:07:55,320 As Bradshaw says, 120 00:07:55,320 --> 00:07:59,400 "The scenery is remarkable for its picturesque beauty." 121 00:07:59,400 --> 00:08:00,960 The hills, the valleys, 122 00:08:00,960 --> 00:08:04,520 the mountains...and these wonderful skies. 123 00:08:09,560 --> 00:08:11,920 Captain, what is the history of The Waverly? 124 00:08:11,920 --> 00:08:14,200 Waverly was built in Glasgow by 125 00:08:14,200 --> 00:08:16,200 The London and North Eastern Railway Company. 126 00:08:16,200 --> 00:08:19,240 She was the last of the Clydebuilt excursion paddle steamers 127 00:08:19,240 --> 00:08:23,720 to work on the Clyde, and indeed, anywhere in the UK and the world. 128 00:08:23,720 --> 00:08:26,640 It's lovely to think that this old girl is still 129 00:08:26,640 --> 00:08:28,520 pulling in the passengers. 130 00:08:28,520 --> 00:08:33,320 Hello, ladies. ALL: Hello! What's the attraction? It's a good day out. 131 00:08:33,320 --> 00:08:35,920 Especially when you get lovely Scottish weather, as well. 132 00:08:35,920 --> 00:08:39,480 What made you come on today? My daughter. Yes. 133 00:08:39,480 --> 00:08:41,320 Did you know the ship? 134 00:08:41,320 --> 00:08:44,120 We know the ship, my father worked on the paddle steamers, so... 135 00:08:44,120 --> 00:08:47,040 Bit of a trip down memory lane, then? Exactly. 136 00:08:56,560 --> 00:09:01,280 Helensburgh was founded in the 18th century by Sir James Colquhoun. 137 00:09:01,280 --> 00:09:05,280 He planned the resort and built and named it after his wife Helen. 138 00:09:08,360 --> 00:09:10,240 But I'm bound for Glasgow, 139 00:09:10,240 --> 00:09:12,800 so it's back on the train for a short trip to the city. 140 00:09:22,040 --> 00:09:25,480 "40 years ago, there were scores of towns within the kingdom 141 00:09:25,480 --> 00:09:30,200 "superior to Glasgow in wealth, extent and population. 142 00:09:30,200 --> 00:09:34,600 "Now, it has a larger population than Edinburgh, Dublin, Liverpool 143 00:09:34,600 --> 00:09:38,440 "or Manchester, and combines within itself the advantages 144 00:09:38,440 --> 00:09:41,520 "possessed by the last two mentioned." 145 00:09:41,520 --> 00:09:45,520 But Glasgow didn't want to compete only in terms of industry 146 00:09:45,520 --> 00:09:48,800 and size - but also for style. 147 00:09:56,760 --> 00:09:59,560 Glasgow at the time of my guidebook was 148 00:09:59,560 --> 00:10:02,000 the second city of the British Empire. 149 00:10:02,000 --> 00:10:04,360 It was riding an industrial boom, 150 00:10:04,360 --> 00:10:08,320 and its wealth and outlook were evident in its grand architecture. 151 00:10:12,920 --> 00:10:16,400 Many of its most iconic buildings were designed by 152 00:10:16,400 --> 00:10:18,880 the architect and artist Charles Rennie Mackintosh. 153 00:10:20,520 --> 00:10:24,480 I'm meeting Alison Brown, an expert in the Glasgow Style. 154 00:10:27,000 --> 00:10:29,760 Hello, Alison. Hello, Michael, nice to meet you. 155 00:10:29,760 --> 00:10:34,840 What a fantastic spread, and what a beautiful tearoom, tell me about it. 156 00:10:34,840 --> 00:10:36,800 Well, this is the Willow Tearooms, 157 00:10:36,800 --> 00:10:39,480 it was designed by Charles Rennie Mackintosh for 158 00:10:39,480 --> 00:10:42,040 tearoom entrepreneur Catherine Cranston, 159 00:10:42,040 --> 00:10:45,000 and it opened on the 28th of October 1903. 160 00:10:45,000 --> 00:10:49,080 Was Charles Rennie Mackintosh in the habit of designing tearooms? 161 00:10:49,080 --> 00:10:52,960 He was, this was his fourth tearoom that he designed for Miss Cranston. 162 00:10:52,960 --> 00:10:55,800 What distinguishes this tearoom was that Mackintosh designed 163 00:10:55,800 --> 00:10:57,960 the whole tearoom in one go, 164 00:10:57,960 --> 00:11:02,400 from the external facade to the tearoom interiors, and we are in the 165 00:11:02,400 --> 00:11:06,040 Room de Luxe, and to come up here to have your tea you paid 166 00:11:06,040 --> 00:11:10,480 a penny extra, because the design was extra special. 167 00:11:10,480 --> 00:11:14,840 This innovative setting reflects Miss Cranston's personality. 168 00:11:14,840 --> 00:11:19,200 At a time when few women were in business, she defied convention. 169 00:11:19,200 --> 00:11:22,560 She cannily spotted a gap in the market for 170 00:11:22,560 --> 00:11:24,720 respectable places for people of quality to meet. 171 00:11:26,280 --> 00:11:27,880 She was ahead of her time. 172 00:11:27,880 --> 00:11:31,240 She understood ideas of marketing 173 00:11:31,240 --> 00:11:36,840 and branding before they became the terms that we now know today. 174 00:11:36,840 --> 00:11:41,080 She championed the young artists and designers that were coming up, 175 00:11:41,080 --> 00:11:43,040 emerging not just from Glasgow, 176 00:11:43,040 --> 00:11:45,960 but from Edinburgh and elsewhere in Scotland. 177 00:11:45,960 --> 00:11:49,280 Glasgow is the one industrial city in Britain that actually 178 00:11:49,280 --> 00:11:51,960 created its own distinct version of Art Nouveau. 179 00:11:51,960 --> 00:11:55,880 Slightly geometric, elongated sinuous forms. 180 00:11:55,880 --> 00:11:59,120 Basically, the Glasgow style refers to the art that was coming 181 00:11:59,120 --> 00:12:03,200 out of the Glasgow School of Art and from the pupils and teachers that 182 00:12:03,200 --> 00:12:07,920 were working there from the period from 1890 through to about 1914. 183 00:12:09,840 --> 00:12:12,000 Mackintosh, also a student, 184 00:12:12,000 --> 00:12:15,360 developed his very distinctive trademark style. 185 00:12:15,360 --> 00:12:18,720 The pierced square motif is instantly recognisable. 186 00:12:21,760 --> 00:12:25,040 This is Mackintosh's most luxurious tearoom. 187 00:12:25,040 --> 00:12:28,720 I think you can see by the quantity of mirrored glass 188 00:12:28,720 --> 00:12:32,160 and stained-glass and metalwork and the furniture design. 189 00:12:33,280 --> 00:12:36,760 And the reviews that were in the local newspapers today after 190 00:12:36,760 --> 00:12:39,440 this building opened commented on this 191 00:12:39,440 --> 00:12:44,040 being the sort of high point of his tearoom design. 192 00:12:44,040 --> 00:12:46,120 But, fully to appreciate his genius, 193 00:12:46,120 --> 00:12:49,120 I'm told that I must visit the Glasgow School of Art. 194 00:12:50,880 --> 00:12:53,320 The School of Art is considered his masterwork. 195 00:12:53,320 --> 00:12:55,520 It's an absolutely incredible building. 196 00:12:55,520 --> 00:13:00,000 Purpose-built and still used for its original function 197 00:13:00,000 --> 00:13:01,360 of being an art school. 198 00:13:03,520 --> 00:13:07,080 Mackintosh was 28 years old and a junior draughtsman 199 00:13:07,080 --> 00:13:09,160 at a Glasgow architecture firm 200 00:13:09,160 --> 00:13:12,000 when he drew up the plans for the building. 201 00:13:12,000 --> 00:13:16,040 The dramatic Art Nouveau design took about 12 years to build 202 00:13:16,040 --> 00:13:18,360 and opened in 1909. 203 00:13:18,360 --> 00:13:23,760 The use of heavy sandstone walls, combined with huge glass windows, 204 00:13:23,760 --> 00:13:25,840 was bold for its time. 205 00:13:25,840 --> 00:13:28,400 Even the decorative ironwork had a function, 206 00:13:28,400 --> 00:13:31,800 as a support for the window cleaner's ladder. 207 00:13:31,800 --> 00:13:36,640 Scotland almost lost its internationally celebrated treasure. 208 00:13:36,640 --> 00:13:38,520 Fire crews from across the country 209 00:13:38,520 --> 00:13:41,520 have spent the afternoon trying to douse the flames. 210 00:13:41,520 --> 00:13:44,080 This, a school famous for its architecture, 211 00:13:44,080 --> 00:13:46,600 and the artists it's produced. 212 00:13:46,600 --> 00:13:49,360 It was full of students when the blaze broke out. 213 00:13:49,360 --> 00:13:51,520 All were led to safety. 214 00:13:51,520 --> 00:13:55,000 I'm meeting Douglas Anderson, former pupil, 215 00:13:55,000 --> 00:13:57,760 now architect in charge of the restoration. 216 00:13:57,760 --> 00:14:00,560 So, Douglas, given the severity of the fire, 217 00:14:00,560 --> 00:14:03,840 I'm rather amazed to find so much of the building intact. 218 00:14:03,840 --> 00:14:08,760 Yes, we were fortunate that the fire service was able to save 219 00:14:08,760 --> 00:14:10,960 most of the building as it is. 220 00:14:10,960 --> 00:14:16,040 Architecturally speaking, what was so special about this building? 221 00:14:16,040 --> 00:14:17,960 Mackintosh was an innovator. 222 00:14:17,960 --> 00:14:22,800 At his time, he dragged architecture in Glasgow away from 223 00:14:22,800 --> 00:14:27,080 the Victorian styles and started looking at modern styles and efforts. 224 00:14:27,080 --> 00:14:30,320 As Art Nouveau was coming in, he embraced Art Nouveau. 225 00:14:30,320 --> 00:14:34,400 He understood what was happening on the Continent. And this was fresh. 226 00:14:34,400 --> 00:14:37,680 But sometimes it was difficult for Glasgow to understand 227 00:14:37,680 --> 00:14:39,240 what he was trying to achieve. 228 00:14:39,240 --> 00:14:42,600 The building was criticised in its day when it opened 229 00:14:42,600 --> 00:14:46,480 but, everybody, as the years went on, people embraced it, understood it 230 00:14:46,480 --> 00:14:50,120 and really, looked upon it as an inspiration for new building. 231 00:14:52,880 --> 00:14:56,320 The key to Mackintosh's approach was practicality. 232 00:14:56,320 --> 00:15:00,960 Here, he created rooms for artists filled with light. 233 00:15:02,480 --> 00:15:05,400 Mackintosh had a fantastic eye for detail. 234 00:15:05,400 --> 00:15:08,240 If you can see round about you what he's developed here 235 00:15:08,240 --> 00:15:12,480 in terms of timber engineering, the detail, the Art Nouveau details, 236 00:15:12,480 --> 00:15:16,840 the carvings, this is what really made him very famous. 237 00:15:16,840 --> 00:15:20,600 He couldn't pass by any detail, whether it was doors, trusses, 238 00:15:20,600 --> 00:15:22,080 walls, panelling. 239 00:15:22,080 --> 00:15:24,000 All this was magnificent. 240 00:15:24,000 --> 00:15:26,240 What does the building mean to Glasgow? 241 00:15:27,240 --> 00:15:30,280 Glasgow's in love with Mackintosh architecture. 242 00:15:30,280 --> 00:15:34,480 This building is such a special place for Glaswegians 243 00:15:34,480 --> 00:15:36,840 to understand, they visit it. 244 00:15:36,840 --> 00:15:38,800 I grew up here, I studied here. 245 00:15:38,800 --> 00:15:41,240 It was a very important part of my career, 246 00:15:41,240 --> 00:15:43,920 as it was for many artists in Glasgow. 247 00:15:43,920 --> 00:15:46,200 Throughout the whole century it's been here, 248 00:15:46,200 --> 00:15:47,920 it's such an important building. 249 00:15:50,520 --> 00:15:55,040 The architect introduced ingenious and innovative practical touches 250 00:15:55,040 --> 00:15:57,120 to the Art School's bold design. 251 00:15:59,560 --> 00:16:03,240 He added a frame to the director's studio, a portcullis to draw 252 00:16:03,240 --> 00:16:06,000 and lower canvases too big for the director's stairs. 253 00:16:06,000 --> 00:16:09,160 Mackintosh leaves nothing, however small, to chance. 254 00:16:14,960 --> 00:16:18,720 This is the Mackintosh Room, which is our main meeting room. 255 00:16:18,720 --> 00:16:20,800 But Mackintosh was a master of light. 256 00:16:20,800 --> 00:16:23,200 This is what's so appealing about this space. 257 00:16:23,200 --> 00:16:26,800 Natural light coming through these east windows, as well as 258 00:16:26,800 --> 00:16:30,680 artificial light that he designed, uniquely, to illuminate the space. 259 00:16:33,840 --> 00:16:36,960 Thankfully, much of Rennie Mackintosh's design 260 00:16:36,960 --> 00:16:40,080 has survived, but the upper studios were destroyed 261 00:16:40,080 --> 00:16:43,520 and the roof was left in a very poor condition. 262 00:16:43,520 --> 00:16:45,120 Now, you were a student here. 263 00:16:45,120 --> 00:16:47,800 Do you regard it as a great honour that you are charged with 264 00:16:47,800 --> 00:16:50,120 the restoration of Mackintosh's work? 265 00:16:50,120 --> 00:16:52,040 Absolutely. I loved my time here. 266 00:16:52,040 --> 00:16:54,920 This is a good way to end a career the way I started it, 267 00:16:54,920 --> 00:16:56,440 in the Mackintosh School. 268 00:17:01,800 --> 00:17:04,760 At the end of another day led by Bradshaw's, 269 00:17:04,760 --> 00:17:07,960 I'm staying at Glasgow Central Station's own hotel. 270 00:17:18,840 --> 00:17:24,680 I'm up early to leave behind the city's grandeur and hurly-burly. 271 00:17:24,680 --> 00:17:25,720 Bye. 272 00:17:32,640 --> 00:17:36,200 I'm ten seconds from the lobby of my hotel and I'm in the heart 273 00:17:36,200 --> 00:17:39,080 of the concourse of Glasgow Central Station, 274 00:17:39,080 --> 00:17:42,000 I believe, one of the finest in the British Isles. 275 00:17:42,000 --> 00:17:45,040 Built by the Victorians, amplified by the Edwardians, 276 00:17:45,040 --> 00:17:49,120 with its very distinctive rounded shop fronts in dark wood. 277 00:17:49,120 --> 00:17:51,960 It provides a magnificent gateway to Glasgow, 278 00:17:51,960 --> 00:17:55,600 not least for intercity passengers arriving from England. 279 00:17:58,840 --> 00:18:01,680 I'm negotiating the station's lower platforms 280 00:18:01,680 --> 00:18:03,480 to head south to Lanarkshire. 281 00:18:06,200 --> 00:18:09,400 In the 19th century, coal and iron manufacture took off, 282 00:18:09,400 --> 00:18:11,400 and Scotland's boom began. 283 00:18:12,400 --> 00:18:18,040 People flocked to open mines and set up furnaces to make their fortunes. 284 00:18:18,040 --> 00:18:19,840 I'm headed now for Blantyre, 285 00:18:19,840 --> 00:18:22,200 and an 1880s edition of my Bradshaw's reminds me 286 00:18:22,200 --> 00:18:25,800 of the dark side of the Industrial Revolution. 287 00:18:25,800 --> 00:18:30,520 "200 miners were killed here by an explosion in 1877, 288 00:18:30,520 --> 00:18:32,560 "on Blantyre's blackest day." 289 00:18:33,680 --> 00:18:34,880 The tragedy happened 290 00:18:34,880 --> 00:18:39,280 when a flammable gas was ignited by a naked flame. 291 00:18:39,280 --> 00:18:43,800 The explosion left 92 widows and 250 fatherless children 292 00:18:43,800 --> 00:18:47,720 and was Scotland's worst-ever mining accident. 293 00:18:49,000 --> 00:18:50,680 Blantyre. 294 00:18:52,520 --> 00:18:57,040 Today, the colliery is long gone, but along the banks of the Clyde, 295 00:18:57,040 --> 00:19:01,920 there are still traces of Blantyre's heyday as a cotton manufacturer. 296 00:19:01,920 --> 00:19:05,280 It feels as though I'm crossing a bridge to another time. 297 00:19:07,120 --> 00:19:10,080 Conditions in the mills were terrible. 298 00:19:10,080 --> 00:19:12,600 Today I'm interested in a self-made, 299 00:19:12,600 --> 00:19:16,080 working-class hero who clawed his way out of them, 300 00:19:16,080 --> 00:19:19,920 out of poverty and on to help abolish slavery in Africa. 301 00:19:23,520 --> 00:19:27,120 David Livingstone was one of the first medical missionaries to 302 00:19:27,120 --> 00:19:29,200 enter southern and central Africa. 303 00:19:31,840 --> 00:19:35,960 Alison Ritchie is the manager of the David Livingstone Museum. 304 00:19:38,360 --> 00:19:40,680 This is the Livingstones' home. 305 00:19:40,680 --> 00:19:42,920 It all seems very picturesque. 306 00:19:42,920 --> 00:19:45,280 What was it actually like in their day? 307 00:19:45,280 --> 00:19:47,200 Probably not so picturesque. 308 00:19:47,200 --> 00:19:51,280 This room was the entire house. There were nine people that lived in here. 309 00:19:51,280 --> 00:19:53,160 You had absolutely no privacy. 310 00:19:53,160 --> 00:19:55,960 Everything was done in this room from the cooking, sleeping, 311 00:19:55,960 --> 00:19:58,680 and under the bed is the toilet. 312 00:19:58,680 --> 00:20:01,360 But not nearly enough beds for so many people. 313 00:20:01,360 --> 00:20:03,920 No, we think his parents slept in this bed here. 314 00:20:03,920 --> 00:20:08,040 The five children on the higher bed together and the grandparents 315 00:20:08,040 --> 00:20:11,560 would have slept on this bed here, which would come sliding out. 316 00:20:12,680 --> 00:20:15,880 The families must have been packed like sardines into these 317 00:20:15,880 --> 00:20:20,360 tenement blocks, because the mill employed 2,000 workers. 318 00:20:20,360 --> 00:20:23,880 And David Livingstone himself worked as a cotton hand. 319 00:20:23,880 --> 00:20:27,160 He did, he worked as a piecer in the mills, from the age of ten. 320 00:20:27,160 --> 00:20:31,080 He would have worked for 14 hours a day, six days a week, 321 00:20:31,080 --> 00:20:32,960 in really horrendous conditions.. 322 00:20:32,960 --> 00:20:35,680 Lots of mill children suffered horrendous injuries 323 00:20:35,680 --> 00:20:39,200 and illnesses from the strain and danger of their work. 324 00:20:39,200 --> 00:20:43,120 So how on earth did this child break out from his background? 325 00:20:43,120 --> 00:20:45,000 Education, really. 326 00:20:45,000 --> 00:20:47,920 He went to school at eight o'clock after he finished work 327 00:20:47,920 --> 00:20:50,480 and would go to school until ten o'clock at night. 328 00:20:50,480 --> 00:20:53,360 After that, he would come back here and sit out in the hallway 329 00:20:53,360 --> 00:20:56,800 and read books until midnight, even one in the morning, 330 00:20:56,800 --> 00:20:58,840 when he would come back in and go to bed. 331 00:20:58,840 --> 00:21:02,080 He would then have to get up at five o'clock the next morning 332 00:21:02,080 --> 00:21:03,120 to do it all over again. 333 00:21:04,520 --> 00:21:09,000 At age 19, Livingstone was promoted and his increased salary 334 00:21:09,000 --> 00:21:12,400 enabled him to save to study medicine at University. 335 00:21:12,400 --> 00:21:15,720 He became a missionary doctor and, in 1841, 336 00:21:15,720 --> 00:21:19,000 was posted to the edge of the Kalahari desert. 337 00:21:19,000 --> 00:21:20,160 He made it his mission 338 00:21:20,160 --> 00:21:22,680 to fight against the evils of the slave trade. 339 00:21:22,680 --> 00:21:29,080 This is a letter he wrote to his son. It's very religious in tone. 340 00:21:29,080 --> 00:21:32,600 It starts, "I hope you're a good boy and remembering your Creator, 341 00:21:32,600 --> 00:21:35,320 "and his son, Jesus, with love, every day of your life." 342 00:21:35,320 --> 00:21:39,040 So religion is really what drove Livingstone in Africa. 343 00:21:39,040 --> 00:21:43,320 Yes, although he later expanded this to both his crusade against 344 00:21:43,320 --> 00:21:48,400 the slave trade and his ideas of how Africa could develop economically. 345 00:21:48,400 --> 00:21:52,960 He believed that fair trade, along with the end of the slave trade, 346 00:21:52,960 --> 00:21:57,240 could bring peace and prosperity to many regions of Africa. 347 00:21:57,240 --> 00:22:01,320 In 1852, Livingstone began a four-year expedition to find 348 00:22:01,320 --> 00:22:04,240 a route from the Upper Zambezi to the coast. 349 00:22:04,240 --> 00:22:07,760 He travelled through swamps and nearly died from disease. 350 00:22:09,840 --> 00:22:14,040 In 1965, naturalist David Attenborough retraced 351 00:22:14,040 --> 00:22:16,200 the great man's footsteps. 352 00:22:17,600 --> 00:22:19,920 And so he came to this spot 353 00:22:19,920 --> 00:22:23,280 and looked right over the very edge of the falls. 354 00:22:23,280 --> 00:22:25,840 The first white man ever to do so. 355 00:22:25,840 --> 00:22:28,600 Even today, this spot is seldom visited 356 00:22:28,600 --> 00:22:31,480 because in order to get to it, you have to weave your way through 357 00:22:31,480 --> 00:22:36,440 the rapids just above the edge of the falls and when you contemplate 358 00:22:36,440 --> 00:22:40,800 what lies immediately ahead this can be a little alarming. 359 00:22:40,800 --> 00:22:44,880 Until then, Livingstone had used only local geographical 360 00:22:44,880 --> 00:22:48,240 names for his discoveries, but here for the first time 361 00:22:48,240 --> 00:22:53,520 he broke with tradition and called these the Victoria Falls. 362 00:22:53,520 --> 00:22:56,840 And this is how he found his way. This is his sextant. 363 00:22:56,840 --> 00:23:00,040 So he used this to calculate latitude and longitude 364 00:23:00,040 --> 00:23:03,680 and he was very accurate, despite having no formal training. 365 00:23:03,680 --> 00:23:06,280 Because of the measurements he took we can actually trace his 366 00:23:06,280 --> 00:23:08,840 position every day to within about half a mile. 367 00:23:11,320 --> 00:23:13,520 But perhaps what sealed Livingstone's fame 368 00:23:13,520 --> 00:23:17,680 in Victorian Britain was his escape from the jaws of a lion. 369 00:23:17,680 --> 00:23:20,280 ROARING 370 00:23:22,280 --> 00:23:25,840 When his body was examined years later, his identity was 371 00:23:25,840 --> 00:23:28,600 verified by his damaged arm bone. 372 00:23:30,520 --> 00:23:34,800 Livingstone died of malaria and dysentery in 1873. 373 00:23:36,200 --> 00:23:38,880 His heart was buried in Africa, 374 00:23:38,880 --> 00:23:42,000 but his body was laid to rest in Westminster Abbey. 375 00:23:44,080 --> 00:23:47,000 David Livingstone was the perfect Victorian hero. 376 00:23:47,000 --> 00:23:51,000 The Christian self-made man opposed to slavery with modern 377 00:23:51,000 --> 00:23:52,880 ideas on economy. 378 00:23:52,880 --> 00:23:56,760 A brave and ambitious explorer who took the British flag to the 379 00:23:56,760 --> 00:23:59,120 darkest corners of the earth. 380 00:23:59,120 --> 00:24:01,920 He was a lion amongst men. 381 00:24:08,040 --> 00:24:10,040 My journey continues south, 382 00:24:10,040 --> 00:24:12,920 this time for a short 15-minute hop to Larkhall 383 00:24:12,920 --> 00:24:15,800 before carrying on to Strathaven. 384 00:24:26,840 --> 00:24:30,960 Situated on the edge of the Avon Valley, Bradshaw's notes its 385 00:24:30,960 --> 00:24:33,480 fine reputation for weavers and horses. 386 00:24:33,480 --> 00:24:37,880 It's also a home to Scotland's oldest bakery. 387 00:24:37,880 --> 00:24:41,720 And I'm meeting its baker, Barry Taylor. 388 00:24:41,720 --> 00:24:45,360 Barry, in the mid-19th century, in the west of Scotland, 389 00:24:45,360 --> 00:24:48,640 would the working man and woman have had access to good bread? 390 00:24:48,640 --> 00:24:50,880 I believe so, yes, on a local basis, 391 00:24:50,880 --> 00:24:54,800 little bakeries working on the corners. 392 00:24:54,800 --> 00:24:59,920 As I came in the door I see that the business has been here from 1820. 393 00:24:59,920 --> 00:25:01,920 A family business? It is, yes. 394 00:25:01,920 --> 00:25:06,600 I am the sixth generation of Taylors to take the helm here. 395 00:25:06,600 --> 00:25:08,480 We have been in the same premises, 396 00:25:08,480 --> 00:25:10,840 albeit it has changed over the years. 397 00:25:10,840 --> 00:25:14,160 Our family were farmers outside Strathaven. 398 00:25:14,160 --> 00:25:19,080 And one of the family decided to be a baker. And good on him. 399 00:25:19,080 --> 00:25:20,280 It's a good decision. 400 00:25:21,560 --> 00:25:24,840 And keeping up with the family, Barry makes a point of using 401 00:25:24,840 --> 00:25:28,200 traditional unrefined grains, such as spelt. 402 00:25:30,280 --> 00:25:35,760 We are going to get stuck into this as a Victorian baker would. 403 00:25:35,760 --> 00:25:39,320 That's a lovely sticky mess, isn't it? It is. 404 00:25:39,320 --> 00:25:43,160 But hopefully by the end of all its manipulation it should be 405 00:25:43,160 --> 00:25:45,320 a lovely smooth dough. 406 00:25:45,320 --> 00:25:49,040 And this point you can perceive how hard making bread on a big 407 00:25:49,040 --> 00:25:50,600 scale would be. 408 00:25:50,600 --> 00:25:52,840 I am finding it pretty hard work now. 409 00:25:54,240 --> 00:25:58,520 I think we can safely say that you have produced a sticky mess. 410 00:25:59,640 --> 00:26:03,000 But one which we can make into something beautiful, I assure you. 411 00:26:05,160 --> 00:26:08,200 Victorian bakers worked over 100 hours a week 412 00:26:08,200 --> 00:26:12,040 in gruelling temperatures up to 90 degrees Fahrenheit. 413 00:26:12,040 --> 00:26:15,760 Basically you need to fold and stretch, 414 00:26:15,760 --> 00:26:19,840 but what you want to avoid is tearing the structure of it. 415 00:26:19,840 --> 00:26:21,280 Yikes! 416 00:26:22,680 --> 00:26:26,680 We are going to start, really gently, fold the dough. 417 00:26:26,680 --> 00:26:34,160 You can repeatedly fold over a piece of dough, gently squeezing it, 418 00:26:34,160 --> 00:26:36,360 but not tearing it 419 00:26:36,360 --> 00:26:39,840 and you will end up with something that is a super-smooth-looking dough. 420 00:26:39,840 --> 00:26:41,560 Hmm! OK! 421 00:26:41,560 --> 00:26:43,960 And there is always a point 422 00:26:43,960 --> 00:26:46,880 when a dough says to you that it's had enough. 423 00:26:46,880 --> 00:26:50,760 And I believe that was about two minutes ago. 424 00:26:53,680 --> 00:26:57,440 Thankfully, I don't have to trust my bread to a Victorian 425 00:26:57,440 --> 00:26:59,760 range with its fluctuating temperatures. 426 00:27:03,840 --> 00:27:06,160 After 40 minutes, the loaves are ready. 427 00:27:06,160 --> 00:27:10,120 'And that fantastic aroma helps me to understand 428 00:27:10,120 --> 00:27:14,160 'the good odour in which each generation of Taylors was held.' 429 00:27:14,160 --> 00:27:18,120 I had no idea that spelt smelt so good! 430 00:27:24,840 --> 00:27:28,440 At the end of the 19th-century, Glasgow produced half Britain's 431 00:27:28,440 --> 00:27:32,400 tonnage of shipping and a quarter of the world's locomotives. 432 00:27:32,400 --> 00:27:35,360 As the second city of the British Empire, it became 433 00:27:35,360 --> 00:27:38,360 a centre of culture and design. 434 00:27:38,360 --> 00:27:41,440 With its art school and Charles Rennie Mackintosh, 435 00:27:41,440 --> 00:27:46,120 pride in the city swelled as surely as a spelt loaf. 436 00:27:52,640 --> 00:27:55,280 'Next time I meet the kings of molten metal...' 437 00:27:57,400 --> 00:28:00,040 Oh, my goodness. That is an extraordinary sight. 438 00:28:00,040 --> 00:28:03,800 Absolutely vast, isn't it? Yeah. What a scale this was built on. 439 00:28:03,800 --> 00:28:07,200 '..uncover the Victorian love affair with Scotland...' 440 00:28:07,200 --> 00:28:11,040 Everybody came to the Falls of Clyde specifically to see Corra Linn, 441 00:28:11,040 --> 00:28:12,480 the largest waterfall, 442 00:28:12,480 --> 00:28:15,200 and the largest waterfall in Britain as well. 443 00:28:15,200 --> 00:28:17,920 '..and visit the home of a mighty brew.' 444 00:28:17,920 --> 00:28:22,000 It's still a family secret. I had passed down to me by my father 445 00:28:22,000 --> 00:28:25,600 and I've now passed it through to my daughter.