1 00:00:04,000 --> 00:00:09,560 For Victorian Britons, George Bradshaw was a household name. 2 00:00:09,560 --> 00:00:11,400 At a time when railways were new, 3 00:00:11,400 --> 00:00:15,720 Bradshaw's guidebook inspired them to take to the tracks. 4 00:00:15,720 --> 00:00:20,360 I am using a Bradshaw's Guide to understand how trains transformed 5 00:00:20,360 --> 00:00:26,320 Britain, its landscape, its industry, society and leisure time. 6 00:00:26,320 --> 00:00:31,160 As I crisscross the country, 150 years later, it helps me 7 00:00:31,160 --> 00:00:33,520 to discover the Britain of today. 8 00:00:55,360 --> 00:00:57,600 Steered by my Bradshaw's guide, 9 00:00:57,600 --> 00:01:00,800 I am continuing my journey across Southern Scotland. 10 00:01:00,800 --> 00:01:03,280 With the coming of the Industrial Revolution, 11 00:01:03,280 --> 00:01:06,600 the famed natural beauty of the River Clyde had to accommodate ship 12 00:01:06,600 --> 00:01:10,880 building yards that would supply vessels to the world. 13 00:01:10,880 --> 00:01:14,800 Down came the trees and up went the dockyard cranes 14 00:01:14,800 --> 00:01:16,840 and factory chimney stacks. 15 00:01:24,440 --> 00:01:28,640 My route this week has carried me across Scotland from West to East. 16 00:01:29,760 --> 00:01:31,440 It began at the Firth of Clyde 17 00:01:31,440 --> 00:01:35,120 and headed through the Scottish Lowlands to Glasgow. 18 00:01:35,120 --> 00:01:39,600 I'll turn North to Stirling and Perth, skirting the Highlands. 19 00:01:39,600 --> 00:01:41,760 I'll then moved east to Fife 20 00:01:41,760 --> 00:01:46,200 and the famous university town of St Andrews from where I'll travel 21 00:01:46,200 --> 00:01:49,440 to Scotland's capital where my journey ends. 22 00:01:49,440 --> 00:01:51,000 On today's leg, 23 00:01:51,000 --> 00:01:54,800 I begin in Motherwell in the heart of the Scottish Lowlands, 24 00:01:54,800 --> 00:01:58,200 before heading south to the edge of the Clyde coalfields. 25 00:01:58,200 --> 00:02:02,240 Then it is back to one of Scotland's most populated areas, 26 00:02:02,240 --> 00:02:08,080 and my journey ends at Linlithgow, birthplace of Mary Queen of Scots. 27 00:02:08,080 --> 00:02:11,080 I meet the kings of molten metal... 28 00:02:11,080 --> 00:02:14,320 My goodness, that is an extraordinary sight, 29 00:02:14,320 --> 00:02:18,200 absolutely vast, isn't it? What a scale this is built on. 30 00:02:18,200 --> 00:02:21,680 ..rediscover the Victorian love affair with Scotland... 31 00:02:21,680 --> 00:02:25,600 Everybody came to the Falls of Clyde specifically to see Corra Linn, 32 00:02:25,600 --> 00:02:26,960 the largest waterfall, 33 00:02:26,960 --> 00:02:29,560 and the largest waterfall in Britain as well. 34 00:02:29,560 --> 00:02:32,440 ..and visit the home of a mighty brew. 35 00:02:32,440 --> 00:02:37,080 It's still a family secret, I had it passed down to me by my father 36 00:02:37,080 --> 00:02:40,480 and I have now passed it through to my daughter. 37 00:02:50,680 --> 00:02:54,720 George Bradshaw believed that tourists should see factories, 38 00:02:54,720 --> 00:02:58,960 the Dundyvan ironworks are well worth visiting. 39 00:02:58,960 --> 00:03:02,480 I'm going to get off at Motherwell to understand how the vast 40 00:03:02,480 --> 00:03:05,800 demands of the ship building industry were met 41 00:03:05,800 --> 00:03:07,640 during the 19th century. 42 00:03:07,640 --> 00:03:10,960 Motherwell at the beginning of the Industrial Revolution 43 00:03:10,960 --> 00:03:15,240 was a small farming community of about 700 people. 44 00:03:15,240 --> 00:03:19,000 The town's fortunes were transformed by the arrival of the railway 45 00:03:19,000 --> 00:03:24,400 and by 1901 its population had swelled to 30,000. 46 00:03:24,400 --> 00:03:28,640 Central to the town's industrial boom was David Colville's iron 47 00:03:28,640 --> 00:03:32,840 and steel works, founded in 1871. 48 00:03:32,840 --> 00:03:36,480 I am meeting Colin Timmins, manager at Tata Steel, 49 00:03:36,480 --> 00:03:37,960 heir to that legacy. 50 00:03:41,600 --> 00:03:43,200 I really don't need to ask you 51 00:03:43,200 --> 00:03:46,040 whether railways play a part in your business, they clearly do. 52 00:03:46,040 --> 00:03:47,120 What do you use them for? 53 00:03:47,120 --> 00:03:50,640 They are mainly used for the raw materials coming in 54 00:03:50,640 --> 00:03:54,800 from Scunthorpe of steel. We bring 1,200 tonnes in at one time. 55 00:03:54,800 --> 00:03:57,400 When was this set up, this plant? 56 00:03:57,400 --> 00:04:00,920 1871, the plant was built. 57 00:04:00,920 --> 00:04:03,200 Basically, an integrated steelworks 58 00:04:03,200 --> 00:04:07,000 and basically, we've supplied steel to a lot of the 59 00:04:07,000 --> 00:04:08,960 famous railway bridges. 60 00:04:08,960 --> 00:04:10,640 If you look at the Tay Bridge disaster 61 00:04:10,640 --> 00:04:14,680 that we had in the last century, this plant provided modern 62 00:04:14,680 --> 00:04:18,320 good-quality steel for the rebuilding of that bridge. 63 00:04:18,320 --> 00:04:22,600 If you look at the Forth Rail Bridge, we provided iron for this 64 00:04:22,600 --> 00:04:25,800 bridge also, which is quite unbelievable that the structure 65 00:04:25,800 --> 00:04:27,360 still stands today, 66 00:04:27,360 --> 00:04:30,760 and to me is one of the wonders of the world. 67 00:04:30,760 --> 00:04:36,080 The Forth Rail Bridge required a staggering 58,000 tonnes of steel. 68 00:04:36,080 --> 00:04:39,160 The structure demonstrated the advantage of malleable steel 69 00:04:39,160 --> 00:04:40,840 over brittle cast iron. 70 00:04:43,640 --> 00:04:46,680 And so, really, unbelievable quantities of steel 71 00:04:46,680 --> 00:04:48,400 have gone into these works. 72 00:04:48,400 --> 00:04:51,160 Oh, more than a million tonnes into the North Sea alone. 73 00:04:51,160 --> 00:04:53,880 And when you start to look at shipping, bridge building, 74 00:04:53,880 --> 00:04:58,120 trains themselves, you have no idea of the quantities we are producing. 75 00:04:58,120 --> 00:05:03,680 Over 130, 140 years of history. Quite unbelievable. 76 00:05:03,680 --> 00:05:06,520 The company's first steel plant was the Dalzell steel 77 00:05:06,520 --> 00:05:12,320 and iron works with 20 puddling furnaces employing 200 men. 78 00:05:12,320 --> 00:05:15,840 Under the energetic direction of Mr Colville, it soon gained a 79 00:05:15,840 --> 00:05:17,320 reputation for quality 80 00:05:17,320 --> 00:05:20,600 and Motherwell gained its nickname of Steel-opolis. 81 00:05:22,240 --> 00:05:25,640 Today, the Dalzell plate mill is one of only two 82 00:05:25,640 --> 00:05:27,600 remaining in Motherwell. 83 00:05:27,600 --> 00:05:31,320 What we have here is we have got 16 small furnaces and one very, 84 00:05:31,320 --> 00:05:34,680 very large furnace. Absolutely vast, isn't it? 85 00:05:34,680 --> 00:05:36,200 What a scale this was built on. 86 00:05:37,560 --> 00:05:40,720 The factory's rolling mill turns out up to 10,000 tonnes 87 00:05:40,720 --> 00:05:42,400 of plate steel in a week. 88 00:05:42,400 --> 00:05:45,320 Its customers come from construction, shipbuilding 89 00:05:45,320 --> 00:05:48,120 and offshore engineering. 90 00:05:48,120 --> 00:05:50,000 What am I going to see here, Colin? 91 00:05:50,000 --> 00:05:53,280 What you're going to see, Michael, is a slab which has been unloaded, 92 00:05:53,280 --> 00:05:56,080 treated and it's then going to come out of the socking patch, 93 00:05:56,080 --> 00:05:58,480 it could be anything from three tonnes. 94 00:05:58,480 --> 00:06:02,840 In fact we have got the capability to roll slabs up to 30 tons. 95 00:06:02,840 --> 00:06:06,440 As you can see now, the operator is taking the lid off the furnace, 96 00:06:06,440 --> 00:06:09,960 and the crane is going to go in and lift the slab. 97 00:06:09,960 --> 00:06:15,000 The temperature inside the furnace is almost 1,000 Celsius. 98 00:06:15,000 --> 00:06:17,880 As you can see, Michael, you can see the slab on the crane just now. 99 00:06:17,880 --> 00:06:22,840 Roughly, the slab weighs 12 to 13 tonnes. 100 00:06:22,840 --> 00:06:25,120 Those immense pinchers have gone in there. 101 00:06:25,120 --> 00:06:28,480 It is a set of pinchers, we call them tongs, 102 00:06:28,480 --> 00:06:32,600 which will lift the slab very carefully out of the furnace. 103 00:06:32,600 --> 00:06:35,360 Oh, my goodness, that is an extraordinary sight. 104 00:06:35,360 --> 00:06:39,600 What the crane will do is take the slab down onto the roller table. 105 00:06:39,600 --> 00:06:43,720 Quite an alarming feeling to have a piece of molten steel rushing 106 00:06:43,720 --> 00:06:46,880 towards you like that. Absolutely, it is very, very warm. 107 00:06:46,880 --> 00:06:49,440 Feel the heat of that. Fantastic. 108 00:06:49,440 --> 00:06:52,400 The slab is entering the descaling process. 109 00:07:00,920 --> 00:07:04,520 This is where any impurities in the metal are removed 110 00:07:04,520 --> 00:07:06,840 before the steel is rolled. 111 00:07:06,840 --> 00:07:11,160 As you see, the surface of the slab is now clean. Yes. 112 00:07:11,160 --> 00:07:14,400 So you minimise any risk of rolling in some dirt in the mill. 113 00:07:14,400 --> 00:07:17,040 It is a great feat of German engineering which was 114 00:07:17,040 --> 00:07:20,200 put in during the '70s and modernised many times. 115 00:07:20,200 --> 00:07:23,200 As you can see, it will go through here, we will do a number of passes 116 00:07:23,200 --> 00:07:27,280 through the mill itself and that will go from slab form to plate form. 117 00:07:27,280 --> 00:07:29,400 Those plates can be how thick? 118 00:07:29,400 --> 00:07:32,920 The plates can be anything from 12 millimetres thick 119 00:07:32,920 --> 00:07:35,680 up to about 200 millimetres. 120 00:07:35,680 --> 00:07:38,000 And so you're putting it in again and again 121 00:07:38,000 --> 00:07:41,400 and flattening it out bit by bit, down to the right thickness? 122 00:07:41,400 --> 00:07:47,000 Yes. We will put it through the mill 15, 16, 17 times 123 00:07:47,000 --> 00:07:51,880 to get to the gauge that we require. 124 00:07:51,880 --> 00:07:56,000 I can understand why educated tourists in the 19th century 125 00:07:56,000 --> 00:07:59,920 would gasp in awe visiting a plant like this. 126 00:07:59,920 --> 00:08:03,160 I feel the continuity of history in a facility that manufactured 127 00:08:03,160 --> 00:08:06,120 steel for the Titanic and the Lusitania 128 00:08:06,120 --> 00:08:09,680 and still supply steel plate for British warships today. 129 00:08:10,960 --> 00:08:12,920 I never saw anything on such a scale. 130 00:08:12,920 --> 00:08:16,560 The crashes and bangs, the heat, the steam, the whole thing 131 00:08:16,560 --> 00:08:19,800 is deeply impressive. 132 00:08:36,920 --> 00:08:40,480 As I make tracks south, I am reminded that Scotland has long been 133 00:08:40,480 --> 00:08:43,800 a land of contrasts, of heavy industry, 134 00:08:43,800 --> 00:08:47,760 and picturesque countryside and it was this magnificence 135 00:08:47,760 --> 00:08:51,800 of nature in the raw that literally made Victorian ladies swoon. 136 00:08:53,800 --> 00:08:56,160 My next stop will be Lanark. 137 00:08:56,160 --> 00:09:00,040 Bradshaw's tells me that travellers can visit the Falls of Clyde 138 00:09:00,040 --> 00:09:02,920 and the romantic scenery in the neighbourhood. 139 00:09:02,920 --> 00:09:06,760 Independent of the magnificent waterfalls, the beauty of the 140 00:09:06,760 --> 00:09:12,120 country, and the picturesque views are a source of great attraction. 141 00:09:12,120 --> 00:09:14,600 As even in rural Lanarkshire, 142 00:09:14,600 --> 00:09:17,880 cotton mills began to spring up on the river banks. 143 00:09:17,880 --> 00:09:21,920 Aesthetes yearned for preindustrial simplicity. 144 00:09:21,920 --> 00:09:24,360 During the 18th century, 145 00:09:24,360 --> 00:09:28,560 the grand European tour was a normal part of the education of young 146 00:09:28,560 --> 00:09:32,360 aristocrats, but when the continent was put beyond bounds 147 00:09:32,360 --> 00:09:37,560 during the Napoleonic Wars, Scotland became the fashionable destination. 148 00:09:37,560 --> 00:09:39,040 The route between Edinburgh 149 00:09:39,040 --> 00:09:42,280 and Lanark became popular with landscape lovers. 150 00:09:45,880 --> 00:09:50,560 I am meeting local guide, Alison Galbraith. 151 00:09:50,560 --> 00:09:53,480 Alison, Bradshaw's is ecstatic. 152 00:09:53,480 --> 00:09:56,760 Corra Lin fall, 84 feet, considered by some to be 153 00:09:56,760 --> 00:09:58,440 the finest of the falls. 154 00:09:58,440 --> 00:10:03,040 "To describe the beauties of the scene is an almost impossible task, 155 00:10:03,040 --> 00:10:06,840 "requiring the glowing language of a poet to do justice to them," 156 00:10:06,840 --> 00:10:10,720 and I think actually more than one poet came here in 1802. 157 00:10:10,720 --> 00:10:16,280 Yes, Wordsworth and Coleridge, and Wordsworth's sister Dorothy as well. 158 00:10:16,280 --> 00:10:18,520 They were doing their petite tour, 159 00:10:18,520 --> 00:10:20,760 they had come from the Lake District 160 00:10:20,760 --> 00:10:25,000 and were making their way around the beauty spots, everybody came 161 00:10:25,000 --> 00:10:27,720 to the Falls of Clyde to see Corra Linn, 162 00:10:27,720 --> 00:10:30,200 the largest waterfall in Britain. 163 00:10:30,200 --> 00:10:33,400 Would this have been an arduous journey in those days? 164 00:10:33,400 --> 00:10:35,480 I can't imagine it would have been easy, 165 00:10:35,480 --> 00:10:39,400 because this was just before the trains that Dorothy and William 166 00:10:39,400 --> 00:10:43,920 and Coleridge came, so they were definitely with a horse and trap. 167 00:10:43,920 --> 00:10:46,800 Dorothy doesn't complain that it is arduous, 168 00:10:46,800 --> 00:10:50,720 but they certainly got out and walked alongside their horse quite a lot. 169 00:10:52,680 --> 00:10:59,120 Their trip in 1802 took six weeks and covered 663 miles. 170 00:11:00,880 --> 00:11:05,040 It was a kind of literary pilgrimage for romantics. 171 00:11:05,040 --> 00:11:08,760 I mean, you are in a lovely 19th-century costume here 172 00:11:08,760 --> 00:11:13,840 and I imagine that actually your long skirt dragging in the mud, 173 00:11:13,840 --> 00:11:17,120 this would all have been quite inconvenient. Definitely. 174 00:11:17,120 --> 00:11:21,440 I think the Victorian ladies must have had some metal 175 00:11:21,440 --> 00:11:23,480 and spirit to do what they did. 176 00:11:23,480 --> 00:11:28,000 Just having to hitch your skirts up to walk up the inclines is 177 00:11:28,000 --> 00:11:34,120 exciting enough as it is, but a lot of the paths had 30 to 40 steps 178 00:11:34,120 --> 00:11:37,280 chiselled down the gorge to the falls, 179 00:11:37,280 --> 00:11:39,960 so they must have been very game. 180 00:11:39,960 --> 00:11:43,000 Dorothy made notes on some of the journey's more challenging 181 00:11:43,000 --> 00:11:48,440 aspects, describing the road quality as "most excellent" or "roughish", 182 00:11:48,440 --> 00:11:50,480 or wretchedly bad. 183 00:11:50,480 --> 00:11:54,480 But such hardship did not discourage this romantic trio. 184 00:11:54,480 --> 00:11:58,920 Wordsworth wrote "Lord of the vale, astounding flood, 185 00:11:58,920 --> 00:12:04,280 "the dullest leaf in this thick wood quakes conscious of thy power. 186 00:12:04,280 --> 00:12:06,960 "The caves reply with hollow moan." 187 00:12:06,960 --> 00:12:10,760 Clearly very impressed by the majesty of the place. 188 00:12:10,760 --> 00:12:14,200 Yes, certainly when Dorothy and William where here, the full 189 00:12:14,200 --> 00:12:19,880 force of the water would have come over and it really is quite a sight. 190 00:12:19,880 --> 00:12:24,600 But the falls were tamed in 1926 by Britain's first hydroelectric 191 00:12:24,600 --> 00:12:26,520 power station. 192 00:12:26,520 --> 00:12:29,760 Situated between Corra Linn and Dundaff Linn, 193 00:12:29,760 --> 00:12:33,840 this plant can generate up to 11 megawatts of power. 194 00:12:33,840 --> 00:12:38,480 January and November, the force of the water would resemble what 195 00:12:38,480 --> 00:12:41,880 Wordsworth and Coleridge were seeing back then. 196 00:12:41,880 --> 00:12:46,160 J.M.W. Turner painted a classical scene of naked bathing beauties 197 00:12:46,160 --> 00:12:48,440 here in 1802. 198 00:12:48,440 --> 00:12:49,880 Just over 50 years later, 199 00:12:49,880 --> 00:12:53,160 it was the Caledonian Railway that provoked controversy. 200 00:12:54,240 --> 00:12:58,160 There's an interesting piece in one of the papers of the day that 201 00:12:58,160 --> 00:13:02,040 describes how the gentleman on the other side of the falls, 202 00:13:02,040 --> 00:13:09,200 Lord Cranston, complains about the cheap train tickets attracting 203 00:13:09,200 --> 00:13:13,360 day visitors who are no longer welcome on his estate. 204 00:13:13,360 --> 00:13:17,280 But Lady Mary Ross was from Bonnington House on this side 205 00:13:17,280 --> 00:13:20,400 of the river, now the wildlife reserve. 206 00:13:20,400 --> 00:13:23,520 She was instrumental in maintaining paths 207 00:13:23,520 --> 00:13:26,880 and she actively encouraged the tourists to come. 208 00:13:26,880 --> 00:13:30,920 They were also treated in the pavilion, to have cups of tea 209 00:13:30,920 --> 00:13:35,320 and as they went in there, the mirrors on the ceiling reflected 210 00:13:35,320 --> 00:13:39,320 the falls, so apparently ladies would swoon 211 00:13:39,320 --> 00:13:44,320 and faint with the awesome view - it wouldn't be awesome back then, 212 00:13:44,320 --> 00:13:46,160 though, would it? The majestic, 213 00:13:46,160 --> 00:13:49,600 sublime view of water cascading down upon their heads. 214 00:13:49,600 --> 00:13:53,560 In this television age, you don't see tourists swooning, 215 00:13:53,560 --> 00:13:56,640 but they still travel to marvel at the falls. 216 00:13:56,640 --> 00:14:00,280 Dorothy Wordsworth's recollections of a tour made in Scotland 217 00:14:00,280 --> 00:14:03,760 remains a classic of picturesque travel writing. 218 00:14:06,160 --> 00:14:09,640 The next stop on my journey is just downstream. 219 00:14:10,720 --> 00:14:15,480 Bradshaw's tells me that no stranger ought to omit visiting 220 00:14:15,480 --> 00:14:18,520 the far famed village of New Lanark. 221 00:14:18,520 --> 00:14:23,960 It was established in 1784 by Robert Owen's father-in-law. 222 00:14:23,960 --> 00:14:26,640 Robert Owen then acquired the village. 223 00:14:26,640 --> 00:14:30,440 He was a philanthropist on his way to becoming a socialist. 224 00:14:30,440 --> 00:14:34,160 For example, he would buy goods in bulk which could be sold 225 00:14:34,160 --> 00:14:39,080 in the village shops to the workers at little more than cost price, 226 00:14:39,080 --> 00:14:43,240 and that idea was the origin of the co-operative movement. 227 00:14:44,560 --> 00:14:48,320 Within this beautifully restored 18th-century cotton mill, 228 00:14:48,320 --> 00:14:51,560 which is part of the New Lanark World Heritage Site, 229 00:14:51,560 --> 00:14:53,560 I'll find my bed for the night. 230 00:15:03,520 --> 00:15:05,840 Excited by the prospect of a new day, 231 00:15:05,840 --> 00:15:10,120 I've headed back to Lanark Station to take the train via Motherwell. 232 00:15:19,160 --> 00:15:23,120 At my next destination, the railway station opened in 1848 233 00:15:23,120 --> 00:15:27,160 and closed the following year because the village was too small. 234 00:15:27,160 --> 00:15:30,200 You wouldn't say that any more about Cumbernauld. 235 00:15:30,200 --> 00:15:33,280 Since I visited the steelworks at Motherwell, I have been 236 00:15:33,280 --> 00:15:37,000 wondering what the workers drank to keep up their energy levels. 237 00:15:37,000 --> 00:15:39,760 What brew was appropriate for those men of iron? 238 00:15:42,520 --> 00:15:45,520 These days, Cumbernauld Station serves one of the most 239 00:15:45,520 --> 00:15:47,360 populated areas of Scotland. 240 00:15:48,560 --> 00:15:52,920 Since 2007, it has been home to one of Scotland's bestselling 241 00:15:52,920 --> 00:15:57,680 soft drinks, born at the peak of the country's industrial boom. 242 00:15:57,680 --> 00:16:01,640 I'm hitching a lift to Cumbernauld's Irn-Bru factory with 243 00:16:01,640 --> 00:16:05,120 delivery driver John Spence, working my passage. 244 00:16:07,840 --> 00:16:11,640 Hello, John. Hello, sir, how are you doing? Good to see you. 245 00:16:15,280 --> 00:16:17,720 You've been doing this a while, haven't you? 246 00:16:17,720 --> 00:16:21,160 Yeah, I've been doing it for 50 year. 50 years?! 247 00:16:21,160 --> 00:16:24,520 So what do you need if you're going to last in a job? 248 00:16:24,520 --> 00:16:28,760 A sense of fun. Over and above that you need a good hand, 249 00:16:28,760 --> 00:16:32,600 people that help you, like your van mate. I've been very lucky. 250 00:16:32,600 --> 00:16:35,360 I've had some quite good van mates over the years. 251 00:16:35,360 --> 00:16:36,880 Do you think I'll be up to the job? 252 00:16:36,880 --> 00:16:39,440 Oh, yes, I'm positive you'll be up to the job. 253 00:16:39,440 --> 00:16:43,120 You'll maybe even last 50 years the same as what I've done! 254 00:16:43,120 --> 00:16:46,840 'I've always thought that whisky was Scotland's national drink 255 00:16:46,840 --> 00:16:50,360 'but this concoction also lays claim to carry the saltire.' 256 00:16:53,120 --> 00:16:55,920 Here we go, Michael. Whoa, look at all that! 257 00:16:59,240 --> 00:17:04,480 'In 1767, Englishman Joseph Priestley suspended a bowl 258 00:17:04,480 --> 00:17:07,240 'of distilled water above a beer vat 259 00:17:07,240 --> 00:17:09,920 'and discovered how to make carbonated water. 260 00:17:11,200 --> 00:17:13,080 'The water had a pleasant taste 261 00:17:13,080 --> 00:17:16,320 'and spawned an industry in fizzy drinks.' 262 00:17:18,640 --> 00:17:20,040 Ah, you're doing great. 263 00:17:21,240 --> 00:17:24,080 So would you like to take some stuff into the shop for us? 264 00:17:24,080 --> 00:17:25,680 Oh, yes, please. 265 00:17:25,680 --> 00:17:27,960 Right. Down. 266 00:17:27,960 --> 00:17:29,560 Bring it in. Hold it. 267 00:17:29,560 --> 00:17:32,040 And then tilt it back. Whoa! 268 00:17:33,680 --> 00:17:37,400 'This beverage owes its origin to the Barr family, 269 00:17:37,400 --> 00:17:42,320 'who opened their first soft drink factory in Falkirk in 1875.' 270 00:17:42,320 --> 00:17:44,920 And if you'd like to put them up on the shelves. 271 00:17:49,560 --> 00:17:52,800 Ah, you're doing a grand job, Michael. Ah, thank you! 272 00:17:52,800 --> 00:17:54,320 Don't smash any of them! 273 00:17:54,320 --> 00:17:56,160 THEY LAUGH 274 00:17:58,320 --> 00:18:00,320 You need real bottle to do this job. 275 00:18:03,280 --> 00:18:07,680 'And just as in Bradshaw's day, the bottles are recycled.' 276 00:18:09,400 --> 00:18:12,880 Well, here we go, Michael, we'll get the empties on the lorry. 277 00:18:17,000 --> 00:18:18,720 Oops! 278 00:18:18,720 --> 00:18:21,080 One down. Health and safety. 279 00:18:21,080 --> 00:18:24,040 I've had nothing to do at this delivery. 280 00:18:28,240 --> 00:18:31,080 The destination for our empty bottles is 281 00:18:31,080 --> 00:18:33,840 the state-of-the-art factory at Cumbernauld which, 282 00:18:33,840 --> 00:18:39,080 since it opened, has produced almost 200 million litres of soft drinks. 283 00:18:41,440 --> 00:18:44,800 Despite its scale, this is still a family firm 284 00:18:44,800 --> 00:18:48,240 and Robin Barr is showing me where my empties will go. 285 00:18:49,440 --> 00:18:53,960 Well, this is the return of a bottle line here which is, I think, 286 00:18:53,960 --> 00:18:57,240 the only returnable bottle line left in the UK. 287 00:18:57,240 --> 00:19:01,440 The customer gets money back if he brings a bottle back? Yes, they do. 288 00:19:01,440 --> 00:19:05,240 This was the only pack in 1875 289 00:19:05,240 --> 00:19:09,360 and it was the only pack that soft drinks were sold in 290 00:19:09,360 --> 00:19:11,360 right up to the 1960s. 291 00:19:12,800 --> 00:19:16,600 'When the Barr family opened its first soft drinks factory 292 00:19:16,600 --> 00:19:20,080 'it was one of hundreds of Scottish manufacturers, selling to men 293 00:19:20,080 --> 00:19:24,920 'and women doing tough physical work in the crowded industrial towns.' 294 00:19:24,920 --> 00:19:28,120 What was the appeal of the product in those days? 295 00:19:28,120 --> 00:19:31,640 It had a lot of appeals, it was obviously a nice refreshment, 296 00:19:31,640 --> 00:19:33,440 as it is today. 297 00:19:33,440 --> 00:19:37,920 Partly, it gave a lot of energy because of the sugar content. 298 00:19:37,920 --> 00:19:41,400 And the quantity of energy was quite important, 299 00:19:41,400 --> 00:19:45,080 but also there was a slight safety factor, 300 00:19:45,080 --> 00:19:50,280 that most soft drinks manufacturers were based on a site where there was 301 00:19:50,280 --> 00:19:55,720 a well, and the quality of the water was therefore guaranteed to be pure. 302 00:19:55,720 --> 00:19:58,680 'To make the most of this natural ingredient, 303 00:19:58,680 --> 00:20:01,480 'the manufacturers took full advantage of everything 304 00:20:01,480 --> 00:20:03,880 'that 19th-century technology had to offer.' 305 00:20:05,160 --> 00:20:08,920 Do you make use of the railways? We did in 1875. 306 00:20:08,920 --> 00:20:12,280 But most, if not all, of our main supplies 307 00:20:12,280 --> 00:20:16,800 came from the south of England, from London. 308 00:20:16,800 --> 00:20:19,240 It was a firm, Reilly, who made machinery, 309 00:20:19,240 --> 00:20:22,960 there was a firm, Stephenson and Howe who made essences, 310 00:20:22,960 --> 00:20:27,480 from whom we still buy essences today and all these supplies 311 00:20:27,480 --> 00:20:31,800 in 1875 would have come up on the railway line to Falkirk. 312 00:20:31,800 --> 00:20:35,760 'In the early years, the Barr family produced all sorts of drinks, 313 00:20:35,760 --> 00:20:38,160 'from lemonade to ginger beer. 314 00:20:38,160 --> 00:20:41,760 'But one particular brand sealed their fortune.' 315 00:20:41,760 --> 00:20:45,120 Your most famous product, when was that developed? 316 00:20:45,120 --> 00:20:51,040 That was in Victorian times, and was introduced to a recipe 317 00:20:51,040 --> 00:20:54,440 that my great-grandfather 318 00:20:54,440 --> 00:20:59,520 and my great uncle put together themselves. 319 00:20:59,520 --> 00:21:03,040 Do you know that recipe? Yes, I do, it's still a family secret. 320 00:21:03,040 --> 00:21:07,600 I had it passed it down to me by my father 321 00:21:07,600 --> 00:21:10,760 and I've now passed it through to my daughter, 322 00:21:10,760 --> 00:21:13,920 so that there will be a continuation even when I'm gone. 323 00:21:15,640 --> 00:21:18,520 The magic formula soon became a hit. 324 00:21:18,520 --> 00:21:21,600 Thanks in part to innovative marketing featuring 325 00:21:21,600 --> 00:21:23,680 the nation's most famous athletes. 326 00:21:25,280 --> 00:21:28,640 The name... Is it connected with the steam industry? 327 00:21:28,640 --> 00:21:32,320 I suppose it is, in the sense that clearly people made 328 00:21:32,320 --> 00:21:36,880 an association with the heavy industries in Scotland at that time, 329 00:21:36,880 --> 00:21:40,640 the iron and steel and shipbuilding industries. 330 00:21:40,640 --> 00:21:43,560 Does it have any iron in it? Oh, yes, it does. 331 00:21:43,560 --> 00:21:47,560 Ammonium ferric citrate is one of the ingredients. 332 00:21:47,560 --> 00:21:49,680 And what does that do for you? 333 00:21:49,680 --> 00:21:53,360 I don't know, if I say it puts hairs on your chest 334 00:21:53,360 --> 00:21:55,800 I won't sell much Irn-Bru to the ladies! 335 00:21:55,800 --> 00:21:57,200 MICHAEL LAUGHS 336 00:22:02,480 --> 00:22:03,800 Back on board, 337 00:22:03,800 --> 00:22:07,600 I'm eastward bound for West Lothian's county town. 338 00:22:18,080 --> 00:22:19,760 I'm on my way to Linlithgow. 339 00:22:19,760 --> 00:22:24,440 Bradshaw says, "This county does not possess that romantic scenery 340 00:22:24,440 --> 00:22:27,960 "for which the Scottish mountains are celebrated. 341 00:22:27,960 --> 00:22:32,240 "But the estates are laid out in the very best of taste. 342 00:22:32,240 --> 00:22:36,160 "In every quarter, the Forth River assumes a singular variety 343 00:22:36,160 --> 00:22:42,000 "of aspects - hills, promontories, winding bays, lofty shores." 344 00:22:42,000 --> 00:22:44,760 The Scottish rivers are highly attractive 345 00:22:44,760 --> 00:22:47,360 but not very suitable for shipping. 346 00:22:47,360 --> 00:22:50,680 That was a problem until the canals came along. 347 00:22:53,240 --> 00:22:57,000 'Linlithgow is the birthplace of Mary Queen of Scots. 348 00:22:57,000 --> 00:23:00,240 'And its palace was home to the Stewart kings. 349 00:23:00,240 --> 00:23:04,160 'I'm interested in its more recent past and I'm meeting Mike Smith, 350 00:23:04,160 --> 00:23:08,480 'who is chairman of the Linlithgow Union Canal Society.' 351 00:23:08,480 --> 00:23:10,560 Permission to board. Please do. 352 00:23:10,560 --> 00:23:15,040 'The Union Canal was built to provide a direct inland connection 353 00:23:15,040 --> 00:23:19,440 'between Glasgow and Edinburgh, as well as between the coasts. 354 00:23:19,440 --> 00:23:21,400 'It was constructed in 1818 355 00:23:21,400 --> 00:23:24,160 'at a cost of almost half a million pounds.' 356 00:23:27,280 --> 00:23:29,880 Mike, what was the impact of the canals on Scotland? 357 00:23:31,200 --> 00:23:35,120 In its local areas where they were, quite astonishing, this was 358 00:23:35,120 --> 00:23:40,040 the sudden access of a motorway between the major cities of Scotland, 359 00:23:40,040 --> 00:23:42,640 this canal. And of course, the Forth and Clyde Canal, 360 00:23:42,640 --> 00:23:46,040 between the two great estuaries, made a tremendous difference, 361 00:23:46,040 --> 00:23:47,680 particularly to the fishing fleets, 362 00:23:47,680 --> 00:23:50,600 because they could follow the fish either side of the country, 363 00:23:50,600 --> 00:23:52,800 by going through the Forth and Clyde as a ship canal. 364 00:23:52,800 --> 00:23:57,040 What were the cargoes? Mostly coal. Ironstone. 365 00:23:57,040 --> 00:23:59,840 And what they called freestone, which is a stone 366 00:23:59,840 --> 00:24:02,480 that's easily made into buildings. 367 00:24:02,480 --> 00:24:05,320 A huge appetite for that in Edinburgh. 368 00:24:05,320 --> 00:24:06,920 And the Slamannan Railway, 369 00:24:06,920 --> 00:24:09,920 which terminated at a basin on this canal, which 370 00:24:09,920 --> 00:24:13,640 was a joint venture between the canal company and the railway company, 371 00:24:13,640 --> 00:24:17,800 used to bring these materials up from the North Lanarkshire 372 00:24:17,800 --> 00:24:21,600 coal fields and put them on the boats and take them into Edinburgh 373 00:24:21,600 --> 00:24:25,880 lock-free. It was well worth investing in that railway 374 00:24:25,880 --> 00:24:28,560 because it halved the journey distance 375 00:24:28,560 --> 00:24:31,400 and knocked 75% off the time involved. 376 00:24:32,880 --> 00:24:36,320 'The resourcefulness and imagination of the men who designed 377 00:24:36,320 --> 00:24:38,840 'the canals never fails to amaze me. 378 00:24:38,840 --> 00:24:43,040 'The engineers Hugh Baird and his mentor Thomas Telford came up with 379 00:24:43,040 --> 00:24:45,200 'impressive navigation solutions. 380 00:24:45,200 --> 00:24:50,200 '64 stone bridges and three major aqueducts enable a continuous 381 00:24:50,200 --> 00:24:52,920 'ribbon of water to run through the land.' 382 00:24:54,640 --> 00:24:58,720 This canal was lock-free all the way to the end at Falkirk 383 00:24:58,720 --> 00:25:03,000 and there was a single flight of 11 locks down to join the Forth 384 00:25:03,000 --> 00:25:06,320 and Clyde, but the whole idea of gathering them there was 385 00:25:06,320 --> 00:25:09,280 that the rest of the canal should be rapid transport. 386 00:25:09,280 --> 00:25:13,840 'With a 35 metre difference in height, it required 3,500 tonnes 387 00:25:13,840 --> 00:25:18,400 'of water per run and took most of the day to pass through the flight.' 388 00:25:18,400 --> 00:25:22,280 I suppose the locks were the thing that slowed down the freight. 389 00:25:22,280 --> 00:25:25,760 Absolutely, and that is why this was built as a contour canal. 390 00:25:25,760 --> 00:25:29,120 What was the locomotion? On the canal? This canal? Horses. 391 00:25:29,120 --> 00:25:30,560 Exclusively horses. 392 00:25:30,560 --> 00:25:34,320 It didn't survive commercially long enough to get mechanised. 393 00:25:34,320 --> 00:25:38,280 'With growing competition from the railways, the canal declined 394 00:25:38,280 --> 00:25:40,840 'and was eventually closed. 395 00:25:40,840 --> 00:25:43,960 'But thanks to the Millennium Link project, 396 00:25:43,960 --> 00:25:48,080 'in 2001 the canal was triumphantly reopened 397 00:25:48,080 --> 00:25:52,520 'and Mike wants me to see a marvel of the 21st century.' 398 00:25:57,840 --> 00:26:00,960 Well, here we are at the top of the Falkirk Wheel. 399 00:26:00,960 --> 00:26:03,200 I've never seen a structure like that. 400 00:26:03,200 --> 00:26:05,880 It looks as though we're just going to go off the end. 401 00:26:05,880 --> 00:26:08,200 It does, doesn't it? But I hope we're not! 402 00:26:09,240 --> 00:26:12,720 So, in one go, we are going to do the equivalent of 11 locks. 403 00:26:12,720 --> 00:26:15,160 Effectively, yes. 404 00:26:15,160 --> 00:26:17,200 We are an amazing height. 405 00:26:17,200 --> 00:26:19,640 Any idea how far we go down? 406 00:26:19,640 --> 00:26:23,680 It's just short of 100 feet. Just short of 100 feet. Wow. 407 00:26:23,680 --> 00:26:26,800 Each case in the big tub that we are sitting in, 408 00:26:26,800 --> 00:26:29,680 each is identical in size and when they're full of water, 409 00:26:29,680 --> 00:26:32,960 they are identical in weight. So the thing is perfectly balanced. 410 00:26:32,960 --> 00:26:35,600 So, in principle, you could just give it a little shove 411 00:26:35,600 --> 00:26:38,840 and it would slowly rotate under momentum. 412 00:26:38,840 --> 00:26:43,200 'It works according to the Archimedes' principle of displacement. 413 00:26:43,200 --> 00:26:46,600 'The boat will displace its own weight of water in the tub 414 00:26:46,600 --> 00:26:50,400 'so that the weight of boat plus water in the rising tub is 415 00:26:50,400 --> 00:26:52,880 'balanced by the one descending. 416 00:26:52,880 --> 00:26:55,400 'Now that's what I call clever.' 417 00:26:55,400 --> 00:26:59,080 'And it's also, to my mind, extremely beautiful.' 418 00:26:59,080 --> 00:27:02,520 Mike, I think that is the weirdest feeling. 419 00:27:02,520 --> 00:27:06,200 We have a very gradually sunk down but actually watching 420 00:27:06,200 --> 00:27:09,800 the other case rise, that is going past us quite fast, isn't it? 421 00:27:09,800 --> 00:27:14,080 Yes. It's odd, how points of view differ. 422 00:27:15,760 --> 00:27:18,360 A massive piece of machinery. Huge, isn't it? 423 00:27:29,000 --> 00:27:32,880 William Wordsworth might lament the railway age, which brought 424 00:27:32,880 --> 00:27:37,120 hordes of tourists to beauty spots like the Falls of Clyde, 425 00:27:37,120 --> 00:27:40,640 but in truth, there had been a transport revolution 426 00:27:40,640 --> 00:27:42,320 before the Victorians, 427 00:27:42,320 --> 00:27:47,160 when a brilliant generation of engineers built the canals. 428 00:27:47,160 --> 00:27:51,760 A young cartographer who was in awe of their achievements 429 00:27:51,760 --> 00:27:54,360 began his career by mapping them. 430 00:27:54,360 --> 00:27:57,960 His name was George Bradshaw. 431 00:28:01,120 --> 00:28:04,440 Next time, I visit the scene of a bloody battle... 432 00:28:04,440 --> 00:28:08,360 And eventually the English are forced back to a position where 433 00:28:08,360 --> 00:28:10,200 they are in complete chaos. 434 00:28:10,200 --> 00:28:13,680 '..enjoy a lesson in the skills of an ancient craft...' 435 00:28:13,680 --> 00:28:17,600 It doesn't sound like it sounded with you. You need more porridge. 436 00:28:17,600 --> 00:28:19,120 More porridge! 437 00:28:19,120 --> 00:28:22,640 '..and soothe my traveller's taste buds.' 438 00:28:24,680 --> 00:28:28,040 Mm, I'm slipping into ecstasy. 439 00:28:28,040 --> 00:28:30,200 Very, very fruity. Lovely.