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00:00:04,480 --> 00:00:06,040
For Victorian Britons,

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00:00:06,040 --> 00:00:08,120
George Bradshaw was a household
name.

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At a time when railways were new,

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Bradshaw's guidebook inspired them

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00:00:13,040 --> 00:00:14,640
to take to the tracks.

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I'm using a Bradshaw's Guide

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to understand how trains
transformed Britain -

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its landscape, its industry,

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00:00:23,720 --> 00:00:25,800
society and leisure time.

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00:00:25,800 --> 00:00:28,000
As I crisscross the country,

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150 years later,

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it helps me to discover the Britain
of today.

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I'm now concluding my Scottish
journey.

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While Victorian English flocked
to Scotland,

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the world beyond these shores also
felt the Caledonian influence.

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Men of fortune left their mark in
the New World,

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and around the globe sportsmen
discovered a Scottish pastime

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00:01:12,840 --> 00:01:14,840
that suited them to a T.

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My journey has taken me across
Scotland,

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from west to east.

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It began at the Clyde estuary,

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heading through
the Scottish Lowlands to Glasgow.

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It continued to Stirling and Perth,

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touching the Highlands.

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Now I'm travelling east to Fife

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to the famous university town of
St Andrews,

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before heading south
to Scotland's capital city.

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On today's leg, I start on
the bracing east coast,

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before heading inland along
the Firth of Forth,

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and on to the theatrical city
of Edinburgh.

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And my journey ends in the former
mining village of Newcraighall.

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I pay homage at the birthplace
of golf...

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Great shot, Michael!
(I can't believe I hit it!)

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00:02:10,680 --> 00:02:14,240
..discover how a poor Scot gave away
a fortune...

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00:02:14,240 --> 00:02:17,040
He wrote The Gospel Of Wealth,
and in that he said,

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"He who dies thus rich
dies disgraced."

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..and tread the boards at
the Edinburgh Fringe.

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I demand to know where you deposited
the handbag that contained that
infant.

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I left it

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00:02:28,600 --> 00:02:30,240
in the cloakroom

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of one of the larger railway
stations in London.

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"No-one can say he has seen
Scotland,

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"who has not paid St Andrews
a visit."

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Thus declares Bradshaw's. And, with
a university founded in 1411,

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and my mother's school of
St Leonard's in 1552, no wonder.

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"One branch of manufacture
flourishes - making balls for golf,

47
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"a favourite game played
on the links

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or flat sands along the sea-shore."

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I think I'll swing by!

50
00:03:15,200 --> 00:03:17,600
Leuchars station may not be
familiar,

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00:03:17,600 --> 00:03:20,880
but most people will have heard of
the world-famous golf course nearby.

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St Andrews Golf Club was founded
in 1843 with 11 members

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who were mostly tradesmen,

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including a dancing master
and a butler.

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They were soon joined by

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Allan Robertson, the foremost golfer
of his day,

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and MacKenzie Turpie,

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who competed in the 1900 Paris
Olympics

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when golf was included.

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I'm going to visit a golf club
factory,

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where they maintain the special
skills needed

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to craft traditional
hickory-shafted clubs by hand.

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I'm meeting Hamish Steedman,
its chairman.

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Hamish, I'm getting the feeling of
a lovely traditional workshop here.

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How far back in history does
golf go?

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The earliest documented evidence
of golf was 1452,

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when James II banned golf,

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in favour of archery practice.

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But we know ball-and-stick games

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have been played from the earliest
days.

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The Scots were the first to
actually play

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00:04:24,160 --> 00:04:27,160
towards a hole in the ground
to hit a ball in,

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00:04:27,160 --> 00:04:29,720
and that's really defined the start
of golf.

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00:04:29,720 --> 00:04:33,680
So, for over 600 years
it's been played at St Andrews.

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What was the game like
here in St Andrews?

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00:04:36,120 --> 00:04:37,960
Well, the history demonstrates

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00:04:37,960 --> 00:04:40,200
that links courses have been here
for centuries.

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The links land for example is
really the common ground

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between the shoreline
and the farmland.

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It wasn't manicured as it is today

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00:04:48,720 --> 00:04:52,320
and, in fact, it was nearly lost
to rabbits, in the early 1800s,

82
00:04:52,320 --> 00:04:55,800
when the rabbit holes almost
took over the golf holes.

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It took a handful of rocks to fill
in the rabbit holes,

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plus pluck and a favourable wind

85
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to see those early golfers

86
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safely through 11 holes out
and the same 11 back.

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So, Michael, this is one of
the long-nosed clubs here

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that was used throughout
Victorian times and before.

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00:05:18,240 --> 00:05:20,480
We have the splice shaft here,

90
00:05:20,480 --> 00:05:22,800
the leather face insert,

91
00:05:22,800 --> 00:05:27,120
the ram's horn, to protect
the leading edge of the club,

92
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and the most important part...

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00:05:28,840 --> 00:05:33,320
Each club was weighed with
lead-weight poured into the club.

94
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Even now the skill lies in precise
measurement of the molten lead.

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00:05:40,480 --> 00:05:42,080
Hello, Angus. Hello, there.

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00:05:42,080 --> 00:05:44,040
What temperature is your lead? Hot.

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THEY LAUGH

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00:05:45,760 --> 00:05:47,960
What weight are you trying
to achieve now?

99
00:05:47,960 --> 00:05:50,040
The head weight's usually three
to four ounces,

100
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and you add lead till it comes up
to the eight-ounce mark,

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and that's the standard weight
that we make the putters.

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When the molten lead has cooled
a little,

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00:06:00,960 --> 00:06:02,880
it's hammered and left to set.

104
00:06:04,680 --> 00:06:08,720
Nowadays golf clubs and their shafts
are made from steel and titanium,

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00:06:08,720 --> 00:06:12,240
but hickory clubs smack of history
and craftsmanship.

106
00:06:12,240 --> 00:06:15,200
Hickory is obviously the shaft of
the golf club.

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It's not indigenous to this country,

108
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but it was used in tooling -

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your pickaxes, shovels,
broom handles -

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and the wood is indigenous
to North America.

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So it was imported.

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So you are still making Victorian
golf clubs...

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There must be a market for them?

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Yes, there is.

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We export, primarily,
around the world.

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We're involved with the World
Hickory Open Championship

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that's played here every year.

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Last year we had 14 different
countries playing in it.

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So it is a growing interest
in the hickory game.

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And it's exciting to see.

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In Victorian times, the game was
regarded as a great leveller

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between ranks and classes.

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When matched in skill,

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king and commoner played
on equal terms.

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Lacking skill, I'd hoped at least
to look the part.

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Hamish, I can't say that I feel
completely sensible in this gear.

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What's the origin of it?

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Well, the plus-fours were typical
of country wear.

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Ideal for golf, ideal for hunting
and shooting,

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because you don't get the bottom of
your trousers dirty.

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And, of course, the greens,
the golf courses in those days,

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weren't manicured like they are
today.

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And, certainly, Scottish rough isn't
very pleasant at the best of times,
anyway.

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Lovely weather. Beautiful views.

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Although that flag looks a rather
long way.

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Nice slowly back,

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nice easy forward.

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That's you.

139
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And follow through, straight
to the hole.

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Oh!

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I personally blame that one on
the stiffening sea breeze!

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Michael, with the hickory clubs,
you trust the club.

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So it's a nice and easy swing back

144
00:08:05,920 --> 00:08:09,280
and swinging through, trusting the
club, and hitting towards the hole.

145
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Great shot, Michael.

146
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(I can't believe I hit it.)

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Let's hope I haven't peaked already!

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Oh, stop-stop-stop-STOP!

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Ran on.

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I hope no-one was looking down from
the famous St Andrews clubhouse,

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which has occupied this splendid
Victorian mansion since 1933.

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I'll get the flag for you, Michael.
Oh, thank you.

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Not sure that it will be needed.

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Oh... Close.

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I'm feeling a bit below par today.

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Not before time, I must resume my
journey south from Leuchars station.

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My next stop will be Dunfermline.

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Bradshaw's tells me it's

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"a large burgh town in the county
of Fife,

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"whose inhabitants are engaged in
the manufacture

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"of diaper, damask and table linen."

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I'm here to find out about the son
of a linen worker

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who moved from below the salt
to the top of the table.

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The ancient town of Dunfermline
dates back to Neolithic times.

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Perched on a rocky hilltop, it's
crowned by a magnificent abbey -

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the resting place of Scottish kings.

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The Victorian visitor armed with
Bradshaw's guide

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00:09:59,320 --> 00:10:03,040
came to see a Scotland swathed
in romance.

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On my own travels abroad, I have
been impressed

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by the philanthropic works of
Andrew Carnegie,

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00:10:08,800 --> 00:10:12,000
but I knew little of his poor
beginnings here in Dunfermline.

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To discover more about this
remarkable man,

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I'm meeting Lorna Owers from
the Carnegie Birthplace Museum.

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I believe that this beautiful park
might not be open to the public

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if it weren't for the generosity of
Mr Andrew Carnegie.

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That's true.
When Andrew Carnegie was a child,

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he wasn't allowed to go into
the park,

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it was owned by Colonel Hunt,

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and it was a private estate,

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and the locals were allowed in
one day a year,

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on a public holiday,

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but because Andrew's uncle
was a Chartist

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00:10:43,040 --> 00:10:46,320
and very anti-establishment -

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which didn't go down too well with
Colonel Hunt - he and his family

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00:10:49,160 --> 00:10:51,400
were banned from the park,
including Andrew.

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00:10:51,400 --> 00:10:56,000
Chartism was one of the most
important popular reform movements

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of the 19th century.

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Working-class men hadn't gained
the vote

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00:11:00,400 --> 00:11:03,520
in the great parliamentary reforms
of 1832.

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00:11:03,520 --> 00:11:05,920
Radicals drew up
a People's Charter -

191
00:11:05,920 --> 00:11:07,840
so becoming known as Chartists -

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00:11:07,840 --> 00:11:11,720
which included the demand for
universal male suffrage.

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00:11:11,720 --> 00:11:13,960
Riots broke out, and Colonel Hunt

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00:11:13,960 --> 00:11:16,480
may have feared disorder
in his park.

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00:11:16,480 --> 00:11:19,360
Carnegie vowed that one day he would
hold a public meeting there,

196
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and in the end, of course, he bought
the park

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00:11:21,880 --> 00:11:23,760
and gave it to the people to enjoy.

198
00:11:23,760 --> 00:11:26,840
A lot of people think that he only
started his philanthropy

199
00:11:26,840 --> 00:11:28,520
when he retired, but actually

200
00:11:28,520 --> 00:11:32,480
he wrote a memo to himself
when he was 33,

201
00:11:32,480 --> 00:11:35,320
and he'd decided at that point
to retire when he was 35,

202
00:11:35,320 --> 00:11:38,280
before he discovered the steel
industry,

203
00:11:38,280 --> 00:11:42,240
and he was going to give
his money away for good causes,

204
00:11:42,240 --> 00:11:44,360
he was going to get a proper
education -

205
00:11:44,360 --> 00:11:46,840
because he'd only had four years
at school -

206
00:11:46,840 --> 00:11:49,000
and he was going to buy a newspaper.

207
00:11:49,000 --> 00:11:51,080
And he didn't get
a proper education,

208
00:11:51,080 --> 00:11:55,120
because he discovered steel
and kept working until he was 65.

209
00:11:55,120 --> 00:11:59,200
But he did start giving his money
away - actually, when he was 43 -

210
00:11:59,200 --> 00:12:00,880
and he left a huge legacy.

211
00:12:00,880 --> 00:12:03,160
There are now 22 institutions
worldwide

212
00:12:03,160 --> 00:12:05,200
which are still going strong,

213
00:12:05,200 --> 00:12:09,080
which are spending something like
150 every minute of every day.

214
00:12:09,080 --> 00:12:12,040
So it's quite an impressive legacy.

215
00:12:12,040 --> 00:12:15,120
And here in the town, of course,
Dunfermline

216
00:12:15,120 --> 00:12:17,440
has benefitted from the library,

217
00:12:17,440 --> 00:12:20,080
and the swimming baths,
and the music institute

218
00:12:20,080 --> 00:12:21,960
and, of course, our Carnegie Hall,

219
00:12:21,960 --> 00:12:25,800
which was built after the original
American, New York, Carnegie Hall.

220
00:12:25,800 --> 00:12:29,640
And give me some sort of indication
of what kind of a man he was?

221
00:12:29,640 --> 00:12:32,960
He wrote The Gospel Of Wealth,
and in it he said,

222
00:12:32,960 --> 00:12:35,240
"He who dies thus rich
dies disgraced."

223
00:12:35,240 --> 00:12:38,040
In other words, you should give
your money away.

224
00:12:38,040 --> 00:12:39,560
You can't take it with you.

225
00:12:39,560 --> 00:12:42,960
And he was really as good as his own
motto. He was, indeed.

226
00:12:42,960 --> 00:12:46,640
He gave away 350 million dollars
in his lifetime,

227
00:12:46,640 --> 00:12:51,280
and that's probably the equivalent
of over 100 billion nowadays.

228
00:12:54,600 --> 00:12:58,800
A truly inspirational example from
a man of humble beginnings.

229
00:12:58,800 --> 00:13:01,520
Lorna is taking me to his
birthplace.

230
00:13:01,520 --> 00:13:05,840
Carnegie was born at this cottage
in Moody Street in 1835,

231
00:13:05,840 --> 00:13:08,720
where his father worked as
a hand-loom weaver.

232
00:13:08,720 --> 00:13:10,880
Competition from the linen factories

233
00:13:10,880 --> 00:13:12,680
hit these artisans hard

234
00:13:12,680 --> 00:13:14,760
and the family emigrated to America,

235
00:13:14,760 --> 00:13:17,560
where Carnegie began to work
on the railroads

236
00:13:17,560 --> 00:13:20,840
before making his fortune in steel.

237
00:13:20,840 --> 00:13:22,720
Despite acquiring great wealth,

238
00:13:22,720 --> 00:13:25,280
he retained an affinity with
Dunfermline

239
00:13:25,280 --> 00:13:28,560
and his wife bought him this cottage
for his 60th birthday.

240
00:13:28,560 --> 00:13:32,840
Today it survives as a museum
celebrating his life.

241
00:13:37,920 --> 00:13:42,200
Andrew Carnegie was given a record
number of freedoms of cities.

242
00:13:42,200 --> 00:13:44,360
We have 56 in the museum,

243
00:13:44,360 --> 00:13:46,600
and this was his very first,

244
00:13:46,600 --> 00:13:49,720
which he was presented with in 1877

245
00:13:49,720 --> 00:13:51,520
from Dunfermline,

246
00:13:51,520 --> 00:13:53,760
and it's the one he was most
proud of.

247
00:13:53,760 --> 00:13:56,320
Of course - his native city,
to which he was so generous.

248
00:13:56,320 --> 00:13:57,840
That's right.

249
00:13:57,840 --> 00:14:00,960
It was mainly thanks for the library
and the swimming baths.

250
00:14:00,960 --> 00:14:03,560
We also have the original manuscript

251
00:14:03,560 --> 00:14:06,800
of Triumphant Democracy, one of
the many books he wrote.

252
00:14:06,800 --> 00:14:10,080
This is unusual, because
it's in his own handwriting.

253
00:14:10,080 --> 00:14:13,800
"The United States have already
reached the foremost rank

254
00:14:13,800 --> 00:14:15,720
"among civilised nations.

255
00:14:15,720 --> 00:14:19,080
"The old nations of the Earth
creep on at a snail's pace,

256
00:14:19,080 --> 00:14:23,960
"America thunders past with the rush
of the express train."

257
00:14:23,960 --> 00:14:28,040
I love a man who uses
a railway analogy.

258
00:14:40,520 --> 00:14:43,440
It's back to the tracks for me
to travel further south,

259
00:14:43,440 --> 00:14:47,200
for a night at Fife's most southerly
village.

260
00:14:47,200 --> 00:14:51,040
Bradshaw's tells me that "in
the neighbourhood of Queensferry,

261
00:14:51,040 --> 00:14:54,560
"by the southern approximation
of opposite promontories,

262
00:14:54,560 --> 00:14:58,960
"the River Forth is forced
into a narrow strait."

263
00:14:58,960 --> 00:15:01,920
That enabled the building,
after my Bradshaw's,

264
00:15:01,920 --> 00:15:04,600
of the famous Forth Rail Bridge.

265
00:15:04,600 --> 00:15:07,800
Before that people relied on
the ferry.

266
00:15:07,800 --> 00:15:10,480
And the northern point was
marked by a light.

267
00:15:14,440 --> 00:15:17,560
North Queensferry lies between two
huge bridges -

268
00:15:17,560 --> 00:15:20,920
the Forth Road Bridge
and the red Forth Rail Bridge.

269
00:15:27,080 --> 00:15:30,040
I'm meeting Queensferry Trust
chairman James Lawson

270
00:15:30,040 --> 00:15:31,720
in this stunning setting

271
00:15:31,720 --> 00:15:33,880
to find out more about the light.

272
00:15:35,000 --> 00:15:37,880
This just has to be the greatest
view of the bridge, doesn't it?

273
00:15:37,880 --> 00:15:40,920
You only get the sense of scale
when you are down here.

274
00:15:42,280 --> 00:15:45,840
'And absolutely dwarfed
by the bridge is the light.'

275
00:15:46,920 --> 00:15:48,920
Now, James, I don't want to be rude,

276
00:15:48,920 --> 00:15:51,800
but I was expecting something
a little larger.

277
00:15:51,800 --> 00:15:54,080
Well, it is what it is.

278
00:15:54,080 --> 00:15:57,720
Designed and put up by
Robert Stevenson,

279
00:15:57,720 --> 00:16:02,440
perhaps the grandfather of
all Scottish lighthouses.

280
00:16:02,440 --> 00:16:04,440
And how does it work now, James?

281
00:16:04,440 --> 00:16:06,360
Well, there's a single wick,

282
00:16:06,360 --> 00:16:09,480
and there is an oil reservoir,

283
00:16:09,480 --> 00:16:12,120
and you just light it with a match.

284
00:16:12,120 --> 00:16:14,600
It originally burned whale oil,

285
00:16:14,600 --> 00:16:16,960
commonly in use until about 1850,

286
00:16:16,960 --> 00:16:19,320
when the much cheaper paraffin
became available.

287
00:16:20,520 --> 00:16:24,880
The light would have guided sailors
towards the safety of the pier.

288
00:16:24,880 --> 00:16:27,680
The tower's not much more than
20 feet tall.

289
00:16:29,160 --> 00:16:32,080
What you see here is
the oil reservoir.

290
00:16:32,080 --> 00:16:34,280
The oil comes out through this
S-bend tube

291
00:16:34,280 --> 00:16:36,320
to the bottom of the wick.

292
00:16:36,320 --> 00:16:38,040
You light the wick here,

293
00:16:38,040 --> 00:16:42,080
and then put on the glass funnel.

294
00:16:42,080 --> 00:16:44,520
You lift the whole mechanism up,

295
00:16:44,520 --> 00:16:46,320
with this unit here.

296
00:16:46,320 --> 00:16:48,160
Very, very clever.

297
00:16:48,160 --> 00:16:50,960
Well, it is certainly getting
towards dark...

298
00:16:50,960 --> 00:16:52,360
Shall we give it a go?

299
00:16:52,360 --> 00:16:53,600
Why not?

300
00:16:55,040 --> 00:16:58,280
It's hard to imagine now how
dependent traffic would have been

301
00:16:58,280 --> 00:17:00,800
for navigation on this little light.

302
00:17:00,800 --> 00:17:03,560
In the 1840s, ferry boats traversing
the Forth

303
00:17:03,560 --> 00:17:07,760
would have picked their way between
trading ships from the continents.

304
00:17:07,760 --> 00:17:11,520
It's interesting to reflect that
this little light burned on

305
00:17:11,520 --> 00:17:14,280
until the opening of the road bridge
in 1964.

306
00:17:26,320 --> 00:17:29,400
After a night's rest, it's back
to the station

307
00:17:29,400 --> 00:17:32,560
for the penultimate leg
of my journey across Scotland.

308
00:17:33,760 --> 00:17:35,440
Edinburgh, says Bradshaw's,

309
00:17:35,440 --> 00:17:38,120
is "one of the most ancient cities
in the country

310
00:17:38,120 --> 00:17:40,440
"and the capital of Scotland.

311
00:17:40,440 --> 00:17:43,600
"It is not inaptly termed
the modern Athens."

312
00:17:43,600 --> 00:17:46,520
Now you may think that a little bit
of an exaggeration,

313
00:17:46,520 --> 00:17:50,640
but think of this - the ancient
Greeks brought theatre
to the masses,

314
00:17:50,640 --> 00:17:55,360
and if one city has done as much
as Athens to popularise theatre,

315
00:17:55,360 --> 00:17:57,360
it could claim to be Edinburgh.

316
00:18:00,600 --> 00:18:05,040
Edinburgh's origins are as
a defensive stronghold

317
00:18:05,040 --> 00:18:07,080
on this imposing rocky ridge.

318
00:18:07,080 --> 00:18:09,080
From the seventh
to the ninth centuries,

319
00:18:09,080 --> 00:18:11,920
it was part of the Kingdom
of Northumbria,

320
00:18:11,920 --> 00:18:14,960
and, after that, a royal residence
of the Scottish kings.

321
00:18:20,840 --> 00:18:23,760
STATION PA: 'We are now approaching
Edinburgh Waverley.'

322
00:18:23,760 --> 00:18:26,280
I'm alighting at Edinburgh Waverley.

323
00:18:26,280 --> 00:18:29,560
Developed in 1854, the station sits
in the valley

324
00:18:29,560 --> 00:18:31,840
between the medieval old town

325
00:18:31,840 --> 00:18:33,800
and the 18th-century new town.

326
00:18:35,080 --> 00:18:37,000
Today it's Britain's busiest

327
00:18:37,000 --> 00:18:39,480
mainline station outside London,

328
00:18:39,480 --> 00:18:43,120
with around 60,000 people passing
through each day.

329
00:18:46,920 --> 00:18:48,840
When Britain built its railways,

330
00:18:48,840 --> 00:18:52,760
that changed everything for good
or ill.

331
00:18:52,760 --> 00:18:55,520
For example, when Queen Victoria
came to the throne,

332
00:18:55,520 --> 00:18:57,960
Edinburgh had the sort of theatre
scene

333
00:18:57,960 --> 00:19:00,560
that you'd associate with
a capital city.

334
00:19:00,560 --> 00:19:04,960
But in 1859, the Theatre Royal
Edinburgh closed its doors,

335
00:19:04,960 --> 00:19:07,800
claiming that there had been
an exodus of talent -

336
00:19:07,800 --> 00:19:11,160
of writers and actors - attracted by
the bright lights

337
00:19:11,160 --> 00:19:15,760
of the West End of London, and now
able to travel easily by train.

338
00:19:15,760 --> 00:19:17,040
Well, if that was so,

339
00:19:17,040 --> 00:19:19,560
the process was reversed after
the Second World War,

340
00:19:19,560 --> 00:19:23,080
when talent came from all over
Britain to the Scottish capital,

341
00:19:23,080 --> 00:19:25,720
attracted by the Edinburgh Fringe.

342
00:19:32,080 --> 00:19:35,520
The Edinburgh Fringe is
the world's largest arts festival.

343
00:19:35,520 --> 00:19:38,920
This wonderful craziness began
in 1947

344
00:19:38,920 --> 00:19:41,920
when a group of uninvited theatre
companies gate-crashed

345
00:19:41,920 --> 00:19:45,360
the launch of the city's
International Cultural Festival.

346
00:19:56,240 --> 00:20:01,120
Today the Fringe fills 25 days
with more than 3,000 shows.

347
00:20:02,120 --> 00:20:05,680
The result is a joyful anarchy
combining household names

348
00:20:05,680 --> 00:20:08,040
and hopeful amateurs.

349
00:20:08,040 --> 00:20:09,760
Merci, monsieur.

350
00:20:13,280 --> 00:20:15,760
Do you come to the Fringe often?
No, it's my first time.

351
00:20:15,760 --> 00:20:17,480
In fact, it's my first time
in Edinburgh.

352
00:20:17,480 --> 00:20:20,520
Oh, my goodness. How on earth do
you decide what to go to?

353
00:20:20,520 --> 00:20:22,640
Easily, I've let a friend of mine
choose.

354
00:20:22,640 --> 00:20:24,400
How are you enjoying the Fringe?

355
00:20:24,400 --> 00:20:25,880
Yeah, I am actually performing.

356
00:20:25,880 --> 00:20:27,280
What are you performing?

357
00:20:27,280 --> 00:20:31,080
I'm a choreographer, presenting
my work at Dance Space.

358
00:20:31,080 --> 00:20:33,720
What do you hope to get
out of being at the Fringe?

359
00:20:33,720 --> 00:20:36,600
Uh, I guess visibility and lots
of fun, to be honest.

360
00:20:36,600 --> 00:20:39,800
I mean, it's great to be in a place
where you can see so many things.

361
00:20:39,800 --> 00:20:42,280
What's the best thing you've seen?
You!

362
00:20:42,280 --> 00:20:44,440
THEY ALL LAUGH

363
00:20:44,440 --> 00:20:46,840
I feel sorry for you, then.
Oh, do you?

364
00:20:46,840 --> 00:20:48,760
Well, we're not so sure about that.

365
00:20:48,760 --> 00:20:51,400
Do you come every year? Yeah, we try
to come every year, yeah.

366
00:20:51,400 --> 00:20:53,480
And what makes you come back
every year?

367
00:20:53,480 --> 00:20:56,000
Just the atmosphere! Atmosphere!
Atmosphere. Yeah.

368
00:20:56,000 --> 00:20:59,120
It's brilliant.
A 20-minute journey on a train.

369
00:20:59,120 --> 00:21:01,880
See if I can squeeze in there.

370
00:21:01,880 --> 00:21:03,920
Anyone else, come in.
Let's take a selfie.

371
00:21:03,920 --> 00:21:07,000
Let's do the world's biggest selfie.
World's biggest selfie.

372
00:21:13,440 --> 00:21:16,840
'I mustn't let this adulation go to
my head.

373
00:21:16,840 --> 00:21:19,520
'I've secured tickets for
an alternative take

374
00:21:19,520 --> 00:21:22,400
'on Oscar Wilde's
The Importance Of Being Earnest,

375
00:21:22,400 --> 00:21:24,680
'where women play men and
vice versa.'

376
00:21:25,840 --> 00:21:28,800
Hello...to our wonderful audience.

377
00:21:28,800 --> 00:21:30,600
Right, can everyone stand up.

378
00:21:30,600 --> 00:21:31,920
Everyone.

379
00:21:31,920 --> 00:21:34,280
Everyone, please. Thank you kindly
to you.

380
00:21:34,280 --> 00:21:37,440
'Ah-ha... It seems this production
is short of a cast member.'

381
00:21:39,960 --> 00:21:41,360
Some victims left?

382
00:21:41,360 --> 00:21:43,600
You, sir. What was your name, sir?

383
00:21:43,600 --> 00:21:44,880
Michael.

384
00:21:44,880 --> 00:21:47,800
'No surprises.
I've drawn the short straw.'

385
00:21:47,800 --> 00:21:49,320
APPLAUSE

386
00:21:51,320 --> 00:21:53,960
'Great names have trodden
these boards before me -

387
00:21:53,960 --> 00:21:57,680
'John Cleese and Emma Thompson,
to name but two geniuses of comedy.

388
00:21:58,760 --> 00:22:00,560
'My wig should get a laugh,

389
00:22:00,560 --> 00:22:02,800
'and beneath it
I'm playing Miss Prism,

390
00:22:02,800 --> 00:22:06,200
'the forgetful governess who mislays
the baby in her charge.'

391
00:22:06,200 --> 00:22:08,200
Prism,

392
00:22:08,200 --> 00:22:10,360
where is that baby?

393
00:22:10,360 --> 00:22:11,960
HIGH VOICE: Lady Bracknell...

394
00:22:11,960 --> 00:22:13,560
LAUGHTER

395
00:22:13,560 --> 00:22:16,440
I-I-I admit with some shame
that I do not know.

396
00:22:16,440 --> 00:22:18,160
I only wish that I did!

397
00:22:18,160 --> 00:22:22,120
I had with me a somewhat old but
capacious handbag

398
00:22:22,120 --> 00:22:25,880
in which I'd intended to place
the manuscript of a work of fiction

399
00:22:25,880 --> 00:22:29,520
that I've written in my few
unoccupied hours.

400
00:22:29,520 --> 00:22:31,840
In a moment of mental...obstruction

401
00:22:31,840 --> 00:22:34,120
for which I can NEVER FORGIVE
MYSELF,

402
00:22:34,120 --> 00:22:36,400
I deposited the manuscript in
the bassinet

403
00:22:36,400 --> 00:22:39,400
and placed the baby in the handbag.

404
00:22:39,400 --> 00:22:43,280
I demand to know where you deposited
the handbag containing that infant.

405
00:22:43,280 --> 00:22:44,560
I left it

406
00:22:44,560 --> 00:22:46,560
in the cloakroom

407
00:22:46,560 --> 00:22:48,200
of one of the larger

408
00:22:48,200 --> 00:22:50,880
railway stations in London.

409
00:22:50,880 --> 00:22:53,160
What railway station?

410
00:22:53,160 --> 00:22:55,200
TINY VOICE: Victoria.

411
00:22:55,200 --> 00:22:57,120
LAUGHTER

412
00:22:57,120 --> 00:22:59,000
'Entrusted to the railways...!'

413
00:23:12,320 --> 00:23:16,400
I'm now travelling on a line that
once joined England and Scotland.

414
00:23:19,480 --> 00:23:21,640
Bradshaw's tells me that
the Waverley route

415
00:23:21,640 --> 00:23:25,200
"passes through country that assumes
a highly picturesque character

416
00:23:25,200 --> 00:23:28,400
"and becomes rich in its historical
association,

417
00:23:28,400 --> 00:23:31,560
"being immortalised by the pen
of Sir Walter Scott."

418
00:23:31,560 --> 00:23:33,280
The Old Waverley line that ran

419
00:23:33,280 --> 00:23:35,800
from Carlisle through the Borders
to Edinburgh,

420
00:23:35,800 --> 00:23:38,280
like so many lines in my
Bradshaw's Guide

421
00:23:38,280 --> 00:23:41,640
passed into history, remembered
only by grandparents.

422
00:23:41,640 --> 00:23:43,960
But now a section of it
from Edinburgh

423
00:23:43,960 --> 00:23:46,640
to Galasheils and Tweedbank
will reopen.

424
00:23:47,920 --> 00:23:50,160
This part of the Waverley Line
was built

425
00:23:50,160 --> 00:23:54,200
by the North British Railway Company
in 1849.

426
00:23:54,200 --> 00:23:57,320
At the time, Newcraighall was
a mining village,

427
00:23:57,320 --> 00:23:59,880
built around a pit that's
since closed.

428
00:24:01,400 --> 00:24:04,680
I've come to meet project director
Hugh Wark.

429
00:24:09,480 --> 00:24:11,840
The Waverley railway is a very
well-known railway,

430
00:24:11,840 --> 00:24:14,880
at least in Scotland. How does it
feel to be rebuilding it?

431
00:24:14,880 --> 00:24:16,920
When I started my career

432
00:24:16,920 --> 00:24:19,120
we were still ripping up some of
the old railways

433
00:24:19,120 --> 00:24:20,840
that had been closed.

434
00:24:20,840 --> 00:24:22,680
So, it's great at this stage to be

435
00:24:22,680 --> 00:24:25,000
actually working to reopen one
again.

436
00:24:26,880 --> 00:24:30,720
The line, like so many, was a victim
of the Beeching cuts.

437
00:24:30,720 --> 00:24:33,080
The announcement of its closure
in 1967

438
00:24:33,080 --> 00:24:35,680
provoked fierce local protest,

439
00:24:35,680 --> 00:24:38,080
even sabotage attacks.

440
00:24:38,080 --> 00:24:39,600
So it's quite emotional

441
00:24:39,600 --> 00:24:42,560
to be driving along what will be
the route of this new line.

442
00:24:43,920 --> 00:24:46,000
With 50km of track,

443
00:24:46,000 --> 00:24:49,640
this is the longest domestic
passenger line to be reopened

444
00:24:49,640 --> 00:24:51,720
in the United Kingdom for 100 years.

445
00:24:54,200 --> 00:24:57,600
The buffer in front of us here is
the end of the existing railway.

446
00:24:57,600 --> 00:24:59,440
It is actually a folding buffer

447
00:24:59,440 --> 00:25:01,880
to allow our new engineering trains

448
00:25:01,880 --> 00:25:03,520
to come onto the line,

449
00:25:03,520 --> 00:25:06,480
but it's also the start
of the new line

450
00:25:06,480 --> 00:25:09,000
and this three and a half kilometres

451
00:25:09,000 --> 00:25:12,760
of brand-new railway - not on the
original Waverley route, at all.

452
00:25:12,760 --> 00:25:14,840
The reasons we've diverted
the railways

453
00:25:14,840 --> 00:25:17,240
to take it through this area
called Shawfair

454
00:25:17,240 --> 00:25:19,560
is because
it's a major development area,

455
00:25:19,560 --> 00:25:22,160
and some of the bridges in this
area, and the station

456
00:25:22,160 --> 00:25:23,480
just along the line,

457
00:25:23,480 --> 00:25:28,160
is all part of bringing economic
development into this area.

458
00:25:35,400 --> 00:25:37,280
All the communities down the line

459
00:25:37,280 --> 00:25:39,880
see the benefits the railways are
going to bring,

460
00:25:39,880 --> 00:25:42,600
and they're all really looking
forward to having stations

461
00:25:42,600 --> 00:25:46,360
in the local communities, that'll
give them good transport access

462
00:25:46,360 --> 00:25:49,640
to Edinburgh and down
into the Borders.

463
00:25:51,320 --> 00:25:55,000
And in honour of the line's
remarkable reversal of fortune,

464
00:25:55,000 --> 00:25:59,480
Hugh invites me to leave a mark on
the beautiful Lothian bridge viaduct

465
00:25:59,480 --> 00:26:01,040
during its restoration.

466
00:26:04,000 --> 00:26:06,720
Michael, how are you?
My name's Willy. Good to see you.

467
00:26:06,720 --> 00:26:09,000
I see you've got some quite
big cracks here.

468
00:26:09,000 --> 00:26:11,280
Does all that have to come out?

469
00:26:11,280 --> 00:26:13,080
In the worst case scenario, yes.

470
00:26:13,080 --> 00:26:14,560
But in this case, we were lucky.

471
00:26:14,560 --> 00:26:16,000
Sounds like you are doing this

472
00:26:16,000 --> 00:26:18,400
with a great deal of respect
for the original structure.

473
00:26:18,400 --> 00:26:21,240
Amazing respect.
Amazing respect for the masons,

474
00:26:21,240 --> 00:26:23,560
and the engineers that built it,
as well.

475
00:26:23,560 --> 00:26:25,080
I'm really in awe of these guys.

476
00:26:25,080 --> 00:26:26,600
We're so lucky that it's lasted.

477
00:26:26,600 --> 00:26:28,120
That it's not been demolished.

478
00:26:28,120 --> 00:26:30,640
The very fact it has lasted
shows you how skilful they were.

479
00:26:30,640 --> 00:26:31,960
It certainly does.

480
00:26:31,960 --> 00:26:35,600
Invited to position even one brick,
I gain a new sense of respect

481
00:26:35,600 --> 00:26:39,440
for the hundreds
who toiled to build this viaduct.

482
00:26:39,440 --> 00:26:41,160
Put your trowel up to it,

483
00:26:41,160 --> 00:26:43,240
and just push it in along the bed.

484
00:26:43,240 --> 00:26:44,960
Like that? Yep. That's perfect.

485
00:26:44,960 --> 00:26:46,480
Pushing that along the bed there.

486
00:26:46,480 --> 00:26:48,800
Make sure you've got all of it,
right to the back.

487
00:26:48,800 --> 00:26:50,960
Oop... I see why it's a skilled job.

488
00:27:06,440 --> 00:27:09,360
You've done a great job, Michael.
Thank you very much.

489
00:27:09,360 --> 00:27:11,200
One small brick

490
00:27:11,200 --> 00:27:13,760
in one arch of 23 arches

491
00:27:13,760 --> 00:27:16,560
of this enormous Victorian
structure,

492
00:27:16,560 --> 00:27:18,760
because those people had big ideas.

493
00:27:24,000 --> 00:27:29,760
Victorian railways bound England and
Scotland together as never before.

494
00:27:29,760 --> 00:27:34,160
Despite that, the Scottish retained
a distinctive national culture,

495
00:27:34,160 --> 00:27:36,480
expressed not least in the sports

496
00:27:36,480 --> 00:27:39,680
and the ware that I've sampled
in recent days.

497
00:27:39,680 --> 00:27:43,480
One of the advantages of Scotland
is that people like me,

498
00:27:43,480 --> 00:27:46,400
associated with it only through
ancestry,

499
00:27:46,400 --> 00:27:50,600
swell with pride at what the Scots
have done for the world.

500
00:27:50,600 --> 00:27:52,720
That's certainly what I've been
feeling

501
00:27:52,720 --> 00:27:55,160
as I've travelled with
my Bradshaw's.

502
00:28:00,600 --> 00:28:04,320
Next time I'll scoop a cool treat
in suburban London.

503
00:28:04,320 --> 00:28:06,920
Sludging, yes? Sludging.
Keep going.

504
00:28:06,920 --> 00:28:09,600
Not sure I want to be known
for making sludgy ice cream.

505
00:28:10,600 --> 00:28:14,960
Learn how the Railway Age was also
a boom time for cemeteries...

506
00:28:14,960 --> 00:28:19,720
Some wag had written,
"New graves warmed by steam!"

507
00:28:19,720 --> 00:28:22,760
..and visit an exotic 19th-century
attraction

508
00:28:22,760 --> 00:28:25,200
that still draws a crowd today.

509
00:28:25,200 --> 00:28:27,720
It's a great way for people to get
close to animals...

510
00:28:27,720 --> 00:28:29,160
A bit too close possibly!

511
00:28:29,160 --> 00:28:30,200
THEY LAUGH