1 00:00:04,280 --> 00:00:08,880 For Victorian Britains, George Bradshaw was a household name. 2 00:00:08,880 --> 00:00:10,720 At a time when railways were new, 3 00:00:10,720 --> 00:00:14,560 Bradshaw's Guidebook inspired them to take to the tracks. 4 00:00:15,760 --> 00:00:19,560 I'm using a Bradshaw's Guide to understand how trains 5 00:00:19,560 --> 00:00:24,600 transformed Britain - its landscape, its industries, society 6 00:00:24,600 --> 00:00:26,680 and leisure time. 7 00:00:26,680 --> 00:00:31,200 As I crisscross the country 150 years later, it helps me 8 00:00:31,200 --> 00:00:33,560 to discover the Britain of today. 9 00:00:54,320 --> 00:00:57,560 All week, I've been using Bradshaw's to rediscover 10 00:00:57,560 --> 00:00:59,920 London as it was in the Age of Steam. 11 00:01:04,000 --> 00:01:08,320 I'm now concluding my rail journeys around the world's first 12 00:01:08,320 --> 00:01:13,320 metropolis. Today, I want to look at great institutions born in 13 00:01:13,320 --> 00:01:17,560 or which flourished during the reign of Queen Victoria - 14 00:01:17,560 --> 00:01:22,800 a variety of cultural, charitable and popular organisations 15 00:01:22,800 --> 00:01:27,640 that to this day define the capital more than rhyming slang 16 00:01:27,640 --> 00:01:29,920 or the sound of bow bells. 17 00:01:37,160 --> 00:01:40,600 Alongside my usual guidebook, I've been delving into other 18 00:01:40,600 --> 00:01:42,560 historic Bradshaw's publications, 19 00:01:42,560 --> 00:01:46,000 including a later edition from 1875, 20 00:01:46,000 --> 00:01:49,360 to shine a light on Victorian London. 21 00:01:49,360 --> 00:01:52,760 Today, I'm tracing a route from affluent Kensington 22 00:01:52,760 --> 00:01:54,560 to Battersea and Vauxhall, 23 00:01:54,560 --> 00:01:58,520 finishing up at one of Britain's busiest stations, London Bridge. 24 00:02:00,280 --> 00:02:03,040 'On this stretch, I'll be getting a fresh perspective 25 00:02:03,040 --> 00:02:05,120 'on a Victorian landmark... 26 00:02:05,120 --> 00:02:09,000 Oh, that is a long way d... Oh, I mustn't look down. 27 00:02:09,000 --> 00:02:10,680 I mustn't look down. 28 00:02:10,680 --> 00:02:13,440 '..learning how London's most famous flower market 29 00:02:13,440 --> 00:02:16,240 'had a darker side in Bradshaw's day...' 30 00:02:16,240 --> 00:02:21,560 Flower sellers would use it almost as a cover for begging 31 00:02:21,560 --> 00:02:23,960 or at worst prostitution. 32 00:02:23,960 --> 00:02:28,400 Oh, so to be a flower girl had a sort of double meaning? Absolutely. 33 00:02:28,400 --> 00:02:32,000 '..and discovering how the capital's 19th-century railways 34 00:02:32,000 --> 00:02:34,600 'are being equipped for the 21st.' 35 00:02:34,600 --> 00:02:36,440 What we see here is the new platforms 36 00:02:36,440 --> 00:02:38,240 that we're just preparing at the minute. 37 00:02:38,240 --> 00:02:41,320 And the scale of this enterprise, the scale of this vision, 38 00:02:41,320 --> 00:02:43,560 it is positively Victorian. 39 00:02:51,120 --> 00:02:54,720 I'm on the Circle line, heading for High Street Kensington. 40 00:02:56,400 --> 00:02:58,840 This stretch opened in 1868 41 00:02:58,840 --> 00:03:01,720 and was soon being used by well-to-do commuters, 42 00:03:01,720 --> 00:03:05,000 who might well have passed the journey flicking through the pages 43 00:03:05,000 --> 00:03:07,040 of an irreverent publication. 44 00:03:10,440 --> 00:03:12,040 "Ascending Fleet Street, 45 00:03:12,040 --> 00:03:16,080 "we pass on the left the office of the inimitable Punch 46 00:03:16,080 --> 00:03:19,720 "and a few doors beyond, that of Bradshaw's Guide." 47 00:03:19,720 --> 00:03:23,680 I'm not at Fleet Street, but near the home of a Punch cartoonist, 48 00:03:23,680 --> 00:03:28,640 who, as reliably as my handbook, steers us through the Victorian age, 49 00:03:28,640 --> 00:03:30,200 albeit sardonically. 50 00:03:35,280 --> 00:03:39,800 Today's popular satirical television and radio shows can trace roots back 51 00:03:39,800 --> 00:03:43,520 to the lampoonery of the magazine Punch. 52 00:03:43,520 --> 00:03:47,080 I'm unearthing its Victorian origins in Kensington, 53 00:03:47,080 --> 00:03:49,680 where, encouraged by the new railway, 54 00:03:49,680 --> 00:03:53,840 19th-century property developers built smart homes by the hundred 55 00:03:53,840 --> 00:03:55,560 for the burgeoning middle classes. 56 00:03:57,280 --> 00:04:02,680 In 1875, artist and Punch cartoonist Edward Linley Sambourne 57 00:04:02,680 --> 00:04:05,480 moved in to number 18, Stafford Terrace. 58 00:04:05,480 --> 00:04:08,840 His home has been beautifully preserved as a museum, 59 00:04:08,840 --> 00:04:12,800 and I'm taking a tour with cultural historian Clare Horrocks. 60 00:04:15,040 --> 00:04:19,360 Clare, politicians had been satirized and caricatured 61 00:04:19,360 --> 00:04:23,880 long before the invention of Punch. What is special about Punch? 62 00:04:23,880 --> 00:04:27,200 I think what's special about Punch is that it's reaching out to a much 63 00:04:27,200 --> 00:04:31,320 more middle class audience. It's much more of a family magazine, 64 00:04:31,320 --> 00:04:34,960 particularly as you move through into the 1850s and 1860s. 65 00:04:34,960 --> 00:04:37,960 But it does pack a punch, doesn't it? I mean, it's something 66 00:04:37,960 --> 00:04:39,800 that the ruling class have to be wary of? 67 00:04:39,800 --> 00:04:41,600 Very much so. 68 00:04:41,600 --> 00:04:44,720 Before the advent of Punch in 1841, 69 00:04:44,720 --> 00:04:48,800 satire often took the form of crude pamphlets, bawdy in tone 70 00:04:48,800 --> 00:04:51,040 and frequently libellous. 71 00:04:51,040 --> 00:04:54,600 Employing top artists and generally skirting around libel, 72 00:04:54,600 --> 00:04:58,760 Punch became the respectable face of the genre. 73 00:04:58,760 --> 00:05:01,280 Alongside biting political commentary, 74 00:05:01,280 --> 00:05:05,240 Sambourne and his colleagues gently lampooned the preoccupations 75 00:05:05,240 --> 00:05:07,680 of the weekly's refined readership. 76 00:05:07,680 --> 00:05:13,320 What we can se here is the use of the spider to satirise the chignon 77 00:05:13,320 --> 00:05:14,760 and female fashion. 78 00:05:14,760 --> 00:05:20,400 What's quite interesting is you can see the flies as earrings. Ha-ha. 79 00:05:20,400 --> 00:05:24,120 An early version of Spider-Woman. 80 00:05:24,120 --> 00:05:27,520 A keen observer of the changing face of Victorian Britain, 81 00:05:27,520 --> 00:05:30,200 Sambourne took advantage of modern technology 82 00:05:30,200 --> 00:05:33,760 including photography, which by the late 19th century 83 00:05:33,760 --> 00:05:35,400 had reached the mass-market. 84 00:05:38,080 --> 00:05:40,360 Sambourne's studio. 85 00:05:40,360 --> 00:05:45,120 Indeed, this is where he worked from 1899, and here's some examples 86 00:05:45,120 --> 00:05:49,600 of how he would use the photography to help him get the shape 87 00:05:49,600 --> 00:05:52,080 of the characters that he was sketching 88 00:05:52,080 --> 00:05:56,400 and an example of one of his cameras. Ah, an unusual camera. 89 00:05:56,400 --> 00:06:00,400 It's got lenses on two sides. This was the secret side panel, 90 00:06:00,400 --> 00:06:04,160 which gave him a secret and more genuine view, it could be argued, 91 00:06:04,160 --> 00:06:09,120 on subjects, such as the schoolgirls walking along that we have here. 92 00:06:09,120 --> 00:06:12,480 Punch took a keen interest in the railways, which were then 93 00:06:12,480 --> 00:06:16,640 transforming Britain and even my guidebook found itself subjected to 94 00:06:16,640 --> 00:06:19,200 the magazine's playful wit. 95 00:06:19,200 --> 00:06:24,640 As we can see here, from September, 1877, we have a piece about 96 00:06:24,640 --> 00:06:28,520 The Continental Bradshaw, which has an initial letter 97 00:06:28,520 --> 00:06:30,440 by Sambourne himself. 98 00:06:30,440 --> 00:06:33,400 "Oh, shall we take a circular ticket carrying us everywhere, 99 00:06:33,400 --> 00:06:35,640 "over everything in all sorts of conveyances? 100 00:06:35,640 --> 00:06:38,400 "Shall we not consequently be haunted with the regret 101 00:06:38,400 --> 00:06:42,560 "that wherever we may be going, we would far sooner go somewhere else? 102 00:06:42,560 --> 00:06:47,160 "Will the Continental Bradshaw be of the least use to us?" 103 00:06:47,160 --> 00:06:49,480 What a heretical question! Ha-ha. 104 00:06:55,840 --> 00:06:58,760 I have never regretted following my trusty Bradshaw's, 105 00:06:58,760 --> 00:07:01,280 and it's now leading me back onto the Circle line. 106 00:07:04,840 --> 00:07:08,560 I'm heading south to learn how royal passions shaped this part 107 00:07:08,560 --> 00:07:12,840 of London in the mid-19th century. 108 00:07:12,840 --> 00:07:14,760 The relationship between Queen Victoria 109 00:07:14,760 --> 00:07:17,400 and her husband Prince Albert could be stormy. 110 00:07:17,400 --> 00:07:20,480 He doubted that the duties of a monarch could be performed 111 00:07:20,480 --> 00:07:24,680 by a weak and feeble woman, and her efforts to perform them 112 00:07:24,680 --> 00:07:29,280 were hampered by nine pregnancies and bouts of post-natal depression. 113 00:07:29,280 --> 00:07:33,200 But after his death, she devoted her life to worshipping him, 114 00:07:33,200 --> 00:07:37,640 and London enjoys the monuments built to Prince Albert. 115 00:07:37,640 --> 00:07:42,360 An 1870s version of Bradshaw's talks about the Royal Albert Hall 116 00:07:42,360 --> 00:07:44,800 "being 150 feet high to the lantern 117 00:07:44,800 --> 00:07:47,960 "and 800 to 900 feet round, it is an oval 118 00:07:47,960 --> 00:07:51,640 "ranking next to the Coliseum at Rome for size." 119 00:07:51,640 --> 00:07:56,520 Ah, yes, but this wasn't built by a Caesar but by a queen. 120 00:07:56,520 --> 00:07:59,960 TUBE PA SYSTEM: The next station is South Kensington. 121 00:08:05,960 --> 00:08:08,280 With the Natural History, Science 122 00:08:08,280 --> 00:08:10,920 and Victoria & Albert Museums nearby, 123 00:08:10,920 --> 00:08:14,920 as well as Imperial College and other educational institutions, 124 00:08:14,920 --> 00:08:18,240 the Royal Albert Hall is at the heart of a cultural 125 00:08:18,240 --> 00:08:20,080 and scientific quarter. 126 00:08:21,320 --> 00:08:24,240 The area owes its origins to The Great Exhibition, 127 00:08:24,240 --> 00:08:26,240 the international industrial showcase, 128 00:08:26,240 --> 00:08:28,920 which had been the brainchild of Prince Albert. 129 00:08:31,560 --> 00:08:35,880 I'm hearing the story from the Hall's archive manager Liz Harper. 130 00:08:37,840 --> 00:08:40,160 Liz, what a stunning auditorium. 131 00:08:40,160 --> 00:08:44,240 So in 1851, there's The Great Exhibition, in the Crystal Palace 132 00:08:44,240 --> 00:08:45,600 in the park. Yes. 133 00:08:45,600 --> 00:08:48,480 Now, what role does Prince Albert play after that in this area? 134 00:08:48,480 --> 00:08:53,120 So, with the profits from The Great Exhibition, his dream was 135 00:08:53,120 --> 00:08:57,280 to buy up land in this area to promote the arts and sciences 136 00:08:57,280 --> 00:08:59,000 as The Exhibition had done. 137 00:08:59,000 --> 00:09:02,360 And so, with the money, they bought up 86 acres 138 00:09:02,360 --> 00:09:05,640 and bought what's nicknamed Albertopolis. 139 00:09:05,640 --> 00:09:08,320 And he was the driving force behind that, 140 00:09:08,320 --> 00:09:12,040 including the Royal Albert Hall? Exactly. Building a central hall 141 00:09:12,040 --> 00:09:16,800 for further exhibitions and for music events was part of that ambition. 142 00:09:16,800 --> 00:09:18,880 And what we see here today, 143 00:09:18,880 --> 00:09:22,480 this 5,000 seat auditorium, was that his original concept? 144 00:09:22,480 --> 00:09:26,200 Erm, originally, the plan was to build a much grander theatre 145 00:09:26,200 --> 00:09:30,280 for almost 30,000 people, but the plans were reduced 146 00:09:30,280 --> 00:09:34,000 because they felt that it could never be filled. 147 00:09:35,280 --> 00:09:39,000 Alas, Albert didn't live to see his vision made reality. 148 00:09:39,000 --> 00:09:43,440 Aged just 42, he died of typhoid in 1861. 149 00:09:43,440 --> 00:09:48,600 But Victoria ensured that his name lived on in this building. 150 00:09:48,600 --> 00:09:51,920 This illustration shows Queen Victoria in 1867, 151 00:09:51,920 --> 00:09:54,400 laying the Hall's foundation stone. 152 00:09:54,400 --> 00:09:59,320 But it was at this ceremony in front of 7,000 people that Queen Victoria 153 00:09:59,320 --> 00:10:03,280 decided without telling anyone at the hall that it would be changed from 154 00:10:03,280 --> 00:10:07,080 the Central Hall Of Arts And Sciences to the Royal Albert Hall. 155 00:10:07,080 --> 00:10:10,600 Ha-ha. That's what they call a 'fait accompli' - a royal edict! 156 00:10:11,600 --> 00:10:16,320 The Hall finally opened in March, 1871, and a year later, 157 00:10:16,320 --> 00:10:20,520 just across the road, it was joined by the lavish Albert Memorial, 158 00:10:20,520 --> 00:10:24,680 whose considerable expense Prime Minister Gladstone was reluctant 159 00:10:24,680 --> 00:10:26,760 to fund from the public purse, 160 00:10:26,760 --> 00:10:29,280 thus deepening his rift with Queen Victoria. 161 00:10:30,520 --> 00:10:35,640 The Hall required a million bricks and 80,000 blocks of terracotta. 162 00:10:35,640 --> 00:10:41,640 Its most remarkable feature was the 185-foot-wide dome of glass 163 00:10:41,640 --> 00:10:44,920 and wrought iron that crowns the building. 164 00:10:44,920 --> 00:10:48,360 Oh, my goodness, this fantastic span! 165 00:10:49,920 --> 00:10:53,960 At the time, it was the largest unsupported dome in the world 166 00:10:53,960 --> 00:10:57,120 and it was made in Manchester and brought down to London 167 00:10:57,120 --> 00:11:00,240 on horse and cart. What on earth does it weigh? 168 00:11:00,240 --> 00:11:05,880 Well, including the glazing, the roof weighs an astonishing 600 tonnes! 169 00:11:07,200 --> 00:11:10,080 Liz is leading me to the apex of the dome, 170 00:11:10,080 --> 00:11:12,280 suspended high above the auditorium. 171 00:11:14,280 --> 00:11:18,640 Oh, that is a long way d... Oh, I mustn't look down. 172 00:11:18,640 --> 00:11:22,880 I think I might have to ask for your arm. Right. Let's tr... 173 00:11:22,880 --> 00:11:25,160 Oh, my goodness! This is weird. 174 00:11:25,160 --> 00:11:28,080 Let's walk across the poles. (Oh, dear.) 175 00:11:28,080 --> 00:11:30,720 Ah! HE GROANS 176 00:11:30,720 --> 00:11:33,480 How high above the auditorium are we? 177 00:11:33,480 --> 00:11:38,040 We're 44 metres to the arena floor. Oh, my goodness. 178 00:11:38,040 --> 00:11:40,160 Now why was this built? 179 00:11:40,160 --> 00:11:43,680 This was built really as Victorian ventilation for the Hall, 180 00:11:43,680 --> 00:11:48,720 so the hot air would rise and come out the top. Hmm, yes. 181 00:11:48,720 --> 00:11:51,760 The Victorian engineering is extraordinary, 182 00:11:51,760 --> 00:11:56,000 but I'm thankful to be returning to terra firma to continue my journey. 183 00:12:07,200 --> 00:12:11,480 I'm boarding the Underground for the last time on this London tour 184 00:12:11,480 --> 00:12:14,720 because, to reach my next stop, I need to join the mainline network 185 00:12:14,720 --> 00:12:15,880 at Victoria. 186 00:12:24,760 --> 00:12:28,640 I'm bound for Battersea, where the railway arrived in 1867. 187 00:12:28,640 --> 00:12:31,720 TUBE PA SYSTEM: Next station is Battersea Park. 188 00:12:31,720 --> 00:12:37,000 My 1870s Bradshaw's notes its gardens, park and old church, 189 00:12:37,000 --> 00:12:41,560 but this quiet village was turning into an industrialised suburb. 190 00:12:41,560 --> 00:12:45,080 Between 1841 and 1901, 191 00:12:45,080 --> 00:12:49,640 the population grew from 6,500 to nearly 170,000. 192 00:12:49,640 --> 00:12:53,080 And as Victorian London's human population soared, 193 00:12:53,080 --> 00:12:56,600 so did the numbers of stray animals on its streets. 194 00:12:57,880 --> 00:13:01,560 I'm hearing from Claire Horton how this situation gave birth 195 00:13:01,560 --> 00:13:03,680 to a Battersea institution. 196 00:13:03,680 --> 00:13:07,400 So, Battersea Dogs Home was actually found in Victorian period, was it? 197 00:13:07,400 --> 00:13:12,360 Mm-hm. We were founded in 1860 by a lady called Mary Tealby, 198 00:13:12,360 --> 00:13:18,360 who came to London after her divorce and was just really concerned 199 00:13:18,360 --> 00:13:22,560 by the numbers of stray, starving and lost dogs on the streets 200 00:13:22,560 --> 00:13:25,240 and wanted to do something about it. 201 00:13:25,240 --> 00:13:30,120 The Home moved this site in 1871, and from the early 20th century, 202 00:13:30,120 --> 00:13:33,200 there have been kennels in these railway arches. 203 00:13:33,200 --> 00:13:36,600 They're now being refurbished to improve the dogs' accommodation, 204 00:13:36,600 --> 00:13:41,000 but in Victorian times, not everyone saw the necessity of treating 205 00:13:41,000 --> 00:13:42,600 stray animals kindly. 206 00:13:44,320 --> 00:13:48,320 There was a rather scathing article in The Times in the very early days 207 00:13:48,320 --> 00:13:52,480 in 1862 saying that it felt our founders had taken leave 208 00:13:52,480 --> 00:13:54,600 of their sober senses. 209 00:13:54,600 --> 00:13:57,960 But we were pretty much saved by Charles Dickens, 210 00:13:57,960 --> 00:14:02,760 who came to the rescue of the Home by actually writing an article 211 00:14:02,760 --> 00:14:07,440 really almost contrasting the lives of pedigree dogs 212 00:14:07,440 --> 00:14:11,360 and their aristocratic owners with the lives of stray street dogs 213 00:14:11,360 --> 00:14:15,080 and the people who lived in sort of the poorer areas of London. 214 00:14:15,080 --> 00:14:20,000 And he was very, very positive, very supportive of the Home. 215 00:14:20,000 --> 00:14:24,280 And so the whole attitude to animal welfare really started to shift 216 00:14:24,280 --> 00:14:26,440 as a consequence of that. 217 00:14:26,440 --> 00:14:30,480 By the late 1880s, the problem of stray dogs was so bad 218 00:14:30,480 --> 00:14:33,480 that the police were authorised to impound them, 219 00:14:33,480 --> 00:14:38,840 and soon up to 25,000 animals a year were being brought to Battersea. 220 00:14:38,840 --> 00:14:41,320 People would often have their dogs seized from them, 221 00:14:41,320 --> 00:14:44,600 from railway stations if they were trying to travel with their dogs 222 00:14:44,600 --> 00:14:47,720 and they didn't have a muzzle on the dog as was a legal requirement 223 00:14:47,720 --> 00:14:52,760 at that time. And at one point during 1898, in 50 days, 224 00:14:52,760 --> 00:14:55,240 we took almost 11,000 dogs. 225 00:14:57,360 --> 00:15:00,480 Thankfully, London these days has fewer strays. 226 00:15:00,480 --> 00:15:05,360 Even so, the Home admits about 9,000 animals annually. 227 00:15:07,120 --> 00:15:11,440 Hello. This is Lucy. Lucy's actually a typical stray come in, 228 00:15:11,440 --> 00:15:15,440 found at Pimlico railway station. Ah, were you, Lucy? 229 00:15:15,440 --> 00:15:17,080 She's about 18 months old. 230 00:15:18,720 --> 00:15:21,080 LUCY BARKS Good girl. 231 00:15:21,080 --> 00:15:25,440 Before a dog can be given a new home, it is carefully assessed 232 00:15:25,440 --> 00:15:30,480 and given much-needed affection by staff and volunteers. 233 00:15:30,480 --> 00:15:33,040 DOGS BARK AND WHINE 234 00:15:33,040 --> 00:15:36,080 And who's this? This is Sheba. Hello, Sheba. 235 00:15:36,080 --> 00:15:40,640 She's one of our current residents. She's now ready to find a new home, 236 00:15:40,640 --> 00:15:44,600 so we're giving her a bath. Hey, sweetheart. 237 00:15:44,600 --> 00:15:47,040 Is she enjoying it? Yeah. 238 00:15:47,040 --> 00:15:51,160 That's a good girlie. It's a thick coat, isn't it? It is a thick coat. 239 00:15:56,560 --> 00:15:58,560 Good girl. 240 00:15:58,560 --> 00:16:03,360 Former politician comes off the tracks and goes to the dogs. 241 00:16:06,520 --> 00:16:08,520 Lovely! THEY LAUGH 242 00:16:11,480 --> 00:16:16,560 With a bit of luck, spruced-up Sheba will soon find a new home. 243 00:16:16,560 --> 00:16:19,000 Home's where I'm bound to sleep 244 00:16:19,000 --> 00:16:22,360 before embarking on the last day of my tour of London. 245 00:16:33,800 --> 00:16:37,360 A new dawn, and I'm back on the South Bank of the Thames 246 00:16:37,360 --> 00:16:40,800 to track down the story of an industry that was blooming 247 00:16:40,800 --> 00:16:43,400 back in Bradshaw's day. 248 00:16:43,400 --> 00:16:47,560 According to Bradshaw's, "Covent Garden is celebrated as being 249 00:16:47,560 --> 00:16:50,920 "the mart for the most delicate and choicest flowers grown 250 00:16:50,920 --> 00:16:53,040 "or imported into England." 251 00:16:53,040 --> 00:16:57,520 A visit to a flower market, now wouldn't that be lovely? 252 00:17:04,600 --> 00:17:08,320 The Central London market described in my guidebook dated back 253 00:17:08,320 --> 00:17:12,600 to the Middle Ages, when it was the convent garden of an abbey. 254 00:17:12,600 --> 00:17:15,640 But 40 years ago, it was relocated here, 255 00:17:15,640 --> 00:17:19,080 down the line from Vauxhall Station. 256 00:17:19,080 --> 00:17:22,320 Helen Evans has researched its history. 257 00:17:24,120 --> 00:17:28,200 Now, the image I have of Covent Garden based on My Fair Lady, 258 00:17:28,200 --> 00:17:30,880 a poor flower selling girl, 259 00:17:30,880 --> 00:17:33,240 that's typical, I suppose, of the late 19th century, 260 00:17:33,240 --> 00:17:34,680 even the early 20th century. 261 00:17:34,680 --> 00:17:39,240 Yes, you would have had two types of girls selling flowers. 262 00:17:39,240 --> 00:17:42,640 You'd have had the waifs who were very much on the breadline, 263 00:17:42,640 --> 00:17:47,160 just selling and making very, very small amounts on the posies, 264 00:17:47,160 --> 00:17:53,480 but you would also have others who would use it almost as a cover 265 00:17:53,480 --> 00:17:57,320 for begging or at worst prostitution. 266 00:17:57,320 --> 00:18:02,440 Oh, so to be a flower girl had a sort of double meaning? Absolutely. 267 00:18:02,440 --> 00:18:05,280 For middle and upper class Victorians, 268 00:18:05,280 --> 00:18:08,040 fresh flowers were a mark of status. 269 00:18:08,040 --> 00:18:12,080 No gentleman would venture forth without sporting a buttonhole. 270 00:18:12,080 --> 00:18:16,200 And city-dwellers gained access to a wider variety of blooms 271 00:18:16,200 --> 00:18:18,240 than ever before. 272 00:18:18,240 --> 00:18:21,560 Pre-railway, it would have all been locally grown. 273 00:18:21,560 --> 00:18:25,880 And it was only with the onset of the railways that they were able to bring 274 00:18:25,880 --> 00:18:29,280 in product from further afield - from the south-west, 275 00:18:29,280 --> 00:18:33,440 the Channel Islands even, and particularly France. 276 00:18:33,440 --> 00:18:37,520 In fact, I have luggage labels here. Oh, my goodness. 277 00:18:37,520 --> 00:18:41,560 This is from a grower who, in Provence, who was growing violets 278 00:18:41,560 --> 00:18:44,560 that they'd send up to markets in wicker baskets. 279 00:18:44,560 --> 00:18:48,400 And these are the luggage labels for the Boulogne boat train, 280 00:18:48,400 --> 00:18:50,440 and they would have come on into London. 281 00:18:53,920 --> 00:18:56,240 From London's various stations, 282 00:18:56,240 --> 00:18:58,920 the flowers were transferred by horse and cart 283 00:18:58,920 --> 00:19:01,560 and later lorries to Covent Garden. 284 00:19:01,560 --> 00:19:05,480 By the 1960s, this traffic was clogging the streets. 285 00:19:05,480 --> 00:19:09,160 And in 1974, the market finally moved to the site 286 00:19:09,160 --> 00:19:11,040 of the former goods yard 287 00:19:11,040 --> 00:19:14,160 of the London and South Western Railway Company. 288 00:19:15,280 --> 00:19:19,440 The modern market is carefully temperature- and light-controlled 289 00:19:19,440 --> 00:19:21,640 to keep the flowers at their peak. 290 00:19:21,640 --> 00:19:24,720 But traders like Bob Cooley have fond memories 291 00:19:24,720 --> 00:19:26,640 of the rough-and-ready market 292 00:19:26,640 --> 00:19:30,000 that readers of my Bradshaw's would have known. 293 00:19:30,000 --> 00:19:33,800 How do you do? Hello, Bob. My name's Michael. Hello there, Michael. 294 00:19:33,800 --> 00:19:36,440 How long have you been in the business? 295 00:19:36,440 --> 00:19:39,360 43 years. No?! Yes! 296 00:19:39,360 --> 00:19:43,080 Anyone before you in your family? Grandfather. Yeah. Dad. Really. 297 00:19:43,080 --> 00:19:45,440 Had a brother up here. One time, I had two uncles up here. 298 00:19:45,440 --> 00:19:47,760 Yeah, there's quite a tribe of us at one time, Michael. 299 00:19:47,760 --> 00:19:50,360 Obviously, you remember the old Covent Garden? Very much so, 300 00:19:50,360 --> 00:19:53,920 love it. When we had the three-day week, which your opposition... 301 00:19:53,920 --> 00:19:57,480 In the early 1970s. ..which your opposition made available for us, 302 00:19:57,480 --> 00:20:00,680 we put all lanterns up. So if you can imagine old Covent Garden, 303 00:20:00,680 --> 00:20:05,000 Dickensian, with Tilley lamps, it was like going back in the day. 304 00:20:05,000 --> 00:20:07,480 Do you miss that place? Ah, it's a different world. 305 00:20:07,480 --> 00:20:09,200 This is business business. 306 00:20:09,200 --> 00:20:13,360 I once found from the Opera House, I'm sure it was a fella's skull, 307 00:20:13,360 --> 00:20:17,840 I took it home, wrapped it up and gave my mum it for her birthday! 308 00:20:17,840 --> 00:20:21,800 She wasn't too pleased, but you used to find all sorts of things 309 00:20:21,800 --> 00:20:24,000 like that from all the different theatres. 310 00:20:24,000 --> 00:20:26,200 The stars used to get over there and you'd see them. 311 00:20:26,200 --> 00:20:28,520 My dad would point out to me, "See that man over there?" 312 00:20:28,520 --> 00:20:30,360 And I was some 15-year-old boy. 313 00:20:30,360 --> 00:20:32,720 "That's Lionel Bart, he wrote Oliver!" 314 00:20:32,720 --> 00:20:36,560 Fantastic, you're rubbing shoulders with very famous people, aren't you? 315 00:20:36,560 --> 00:20:37,760 It was great! 316 00:20:37,760 --> 00:20:41,520 Bob also remembers the days when lorries filled with boxes 317 00:20:41,520 --> 00:20:44,800 of flowers left New Covent Garden three times a day, 318 00:20:44,800 --> 00:20:48,200 bound for the London termini, where trains would carry them on 319 00:20:48,200 --> 00:20:50,600 to destinations across the land. 320 00:20:50,600 --> 00:20:54,000 You can write 'Sym's of Aberdeen' on there. Is that with an 'I'? 321 00:20:54,000 --> 00:20:57,600 Whatever. My spelling might be different to yours! 322 00:20:57,600 --> 00:21:00,760 I'll put it with a 'Y'. Sym's. 323 00:21:00,760 --> 00:21:04,080 Aberdeen. Yeah. And a special word at the bottom, 324 00:21:04,080 --> 00:21:07,360 I'll tell you what it is. Oh, I hope it's a nice word! It is. 325 00:21:09,000 --> 00:21:11,400 TBCF. 326 00:21:11,400 --> 00:21:15,040 To be collected? Called for. Called for. That's right. 327 00:21:15,040 --> 00:21:17,920 There we are. There you go. 328 00:21:17,920 --> 00:21:20,960 Would you like to take it out to the loading bay now? Deliver it? 329 00:21:20,960 --> 00:21:22,520 Absolutely. 330 00:21:23,520 --> 00:21:25,440 Shall we pop your book on there, Michael, 331 00:21:25,440 --> 00:21:28,240 so you can take that with you? 332 00:21:32,680 --> 00:21:36,840 Since the 1990s, the trains no longer play a big role 333 00:21:36,840 --> 00:21:40,880 in the flower trade, but who knows what the future holds? 334 00:21:49,080 --> 00:21:53,000 Right now, London is in the midst of a railway renaissance, 335 00:21:53,000 --> 00:21:56,960 and the very last leg of my London itinerary takes me to a station 336 00:21:56,960 --> 00:22:00,480 with a crucial role in the capital's future development. 337 00:22:08,040 --> 00:22:10,040 Bradshaw's tells me that "the London terminus 338 00:22:10,040 --> 00:22:13,720 "of the Southeastern railway is situated on the Surrey side 339 00:22:13,720 --> 00:22:17,400 "of London Bridge. It's been enlarged to meet the requirements 340 00:22:17,400 --> 00:22:20,960 "of the various lines of which it is now the conjoint termini." 341 00:22:20,960 --> 00:22:23,880 That's been one of the problems for London Bridge. 342 00:22:23,880 --> 00:22:26,560 It has this dual personality as both a terminus station 343 00:22:26,560 --> 00:22:28,840 and a through station, too. 344 00:22:28,840 --> 00:22:31,600 And Bradshaw's remarks that it's not spectacular, 345 00:22:31,600 --> 00:22:34,080 but I have a feeling that's about to change. 346 00:22:42,440 --> 00:22:47,240 As suggested by my guidebook, since Victorian times, 347 00:22:47,240 --> 00:22:50,840 London Bridge has stood at the nexus of railway lines feeding in 348 00:22:50,840 --> 00:22:52,840 from across the South East. 349 00:22:54,600 --> 00:22:57,760 But the tangle of tracks that grew up in Bradshaw's day 350 00:22:57,760 --> 00:23:02,680 was not built with 21st-century commuter traffic in mind. 351 00:23:02,680 --> 00:23:05,960 Today this vital junction is a bottleneck 352 00:23:05,960 --> 00:23:11,600 and the station is ill-equipped to handle the 277 passengers per minute 353 00:23:11,600 --> 00:23:14,160 who arrive here at peak times. 354 00:23:16,240 --> 00:23:18,160 London Bridge station, at a point 355 00:23:18,160 --> 00:23:21,560 where, what, six or seven pedestrian tunnels converge in one place, 356 00:23:21,560 --> 00:23:23,640 and people just kind of bump into each other 357 00:23:23,640 --> 00:23:26,000 like chaotic streams of ants. 358 00:23:31,680 --> 00:23:33,600 Thanks to a chequered past, 359 00:23:33,600 --> 00:23:36,320 with competing companies running services here, 360 00:23:36,320 --> 00:23:39,200 for much of its history, London Bridge has effectively 361 00:23:39,200 --> 00:23:40,400 been two stations. 362 00:23:41,480 --> 00:23:45,400 Until recently, there were six through platforms in one half 363 00:23:45,400 --> 00:23:49,960 and nine terminating platforms in the other, linked by a footbridge. 364 00:23:49,960 --> 00:23:53,760 But now, as part of the £6.5 billion Thameslink Programme 365 00:23:53,760 --> 00:23:57,000 to expand London's north-south railway capacity, 366 00:23:57,000 --> 00:23:58,240 that's all changing. 367 00:23:59,680 --> 00:24:03,760 Andrew Hutton has been working on the project for five years. 368 00:24:03,760 --> 00:24:05,440 What a mammoth building site! 369 00:24:08,120 --> 00:24:11,240 What we've got to do is get a lot more trains through London Bridge, 370 00:24:11,240 --> 00:24:15,040 so London Bridge unlocks the whole of the Thameslink project. 371 00:24:15,040 --> 00:24:19,360 So the work going on now really is to create more through platforms 372 00:24:19,360 --> 00:24:22,280 and thereby reduce some of the terminating platforms. 373 00:24:22,280 --> 00:24:25,040 This enables us to put the 18 trains an hour extra 374 00:24:25,040 --> 00:24:27,640 we've got to put through for the Thameslink Programme. 375 00:24:27,640 --> 00:24:30,840 At the minute, there's just no room to do that. 376 00:24:30,840 --> 00:24:33,680 The Victorians ran the first North-South through services 377 00:24:33,680 --> 00:24:37,960 via London Bridge, crossing the Thames at Blackfriars. 378 00:24:37,960 --> 00:24:41,880 Nowadays, a maximum of four trains an hour ply the route, 379 00:24:41,880 --> 00:24:45,280 with barely one an hour at peak times. 380 00:24:45,280 --> 00:24:48,400 To rectify that severe shortage of capacity, 381 00:24:48,400 --> 00:24:51,720 the platforms are being completely reconfigured 382 00:24:51,720 --> 00:24:53,680 to provide nine through lines - 383 00:24:53,680 --> 00:24:57,840 all while London Bridge remains open to passengers. 384 00:24:57,840 --> 00:25:00,960 It's a huge game of chess really, which I always describe to people 385 00:25:00,960 --> 00:25:04,040 in some sense is brilliant, makes you come into work every day and think, 386 00:25:04,040 --> 00:25:06,880 "Wow," and in the other sense, it keeps you awake at night thinking, 387 00:25:06,880 --> 00:25:08,560 "How on earth are we going to do that?" 388 00:25:08,560 --> 00:25:11,040 MICHAEL LAUGHS It's leaving you apparently 389 00:25:11,040 --> 00:25:13,440 with a lovely big...what, kind of underpass here. 390 00:25:13,440 --> 00:25:14,760 What's that going to be, then? 391 00:25:14,760 --> 00:25:17,920 Well, basically this is a brand-new concourse that we're building. 392 00:25:17,920 --> 00:25:20,400 It's bigger than the size of Wembley Football pitch. 393 00:25:20,400 --> 00:25:24,320 We have this huge area that will link the whole station, 394 00:25:24,320 --> 00:25:26,480 so for the first time in its history, 395 00:25:26,480 --> 00:25:30,440 you'll be able to access any of the platforms from the same level. 396 00:25:30,440 --> 00:25:34,560 So that little warren that I came trough earlier, that disappears? 397 00:25:34,560 --> 00:25:36,000 All that goes. 398 00:25:39,200 --> 00:25:43,280 The new concourse must be carved out of the Victorian architecture 399 00:25:43,280 --> 00:25:45,720 that underpins the existing station. 400 00:25:48,160 --> 00:25:51,440 It's a real labyrinth under here, isn't it? Indeed, I think actually 401 00:25:51,440 --> 00:25:54,440 this is a very good place to just to stop, to show you an idea 402 00:25:54,440 --> 00:25:57,600 of how the station's been developed with different sets of arches 403 00:25:57,600 --> 00:26:00,320 depending when they were built. If you look into the distance, 404 00:26:00,320 --> 00:26:03,520 you can see about three different variations of arch, 405 00:26:03,520 --> 00:26:06,800 and behind that, the new concourse is starting. 406 00:26:06,800 --> 00:26:10,200 So it'll work its way, gnawing through all these arches, 407 00:26:10,200 --> 00:26:12,440 right through to the other side on Tooley Street. 408 00:26:12,440 --> 00:26:15,120 So alas, we're going to lose these Victorian arches? 409 00:26:15,120 --> 00:26:17,320 Well, yes, you'll lose some. 410 00:26:17,320 --> 00:26:21,400 We have to take arches out to enable us to put the big concourse in, 411 00:26:21,400 --> 00:26:23,200 but leave them all around the edges. 412 00:26:27,120 --> 00:26:29,640 The new concourse will be spectacular, 413 00:26:29,640 --> 00:26:34,800 and the project also addresses the nuts and bolts of railway operation. 414 00:26:34,800 --> 00:26:37,640 Every last rail and sleeper is being replaced 415 00:26:37,640 --> 00:26:42,440 in one of the largest track renewal and re-signalling projects ever. 416 00:26:42,440 --> 00:26:45,160 Right, Michael, what we see here is the new platforms 417 00:26:45,160 --> 00:26:48,720 that we're just preparing at the minute. We've got about a month left 418 00:26:48,720 --> 00:26:51,120 to get this ready to give over to the track guys, 419 00:26:51,120 --> 00:26:53,760 put all the ballast down, put the tracks in. 420 00:26:53,760 --> 00:26:56,840 The scale of this enterprise, the scale of this vision, 421 00:26:56,840 --> 00:26:58,920 it is positively Victorian. 422 00:27:05,520 --> 00:27:08,320 The Thameslink project is one of many 423 00:27:08,320 --> 00:27:10,560 that are refashioning the capital. 424 00:27:10,560 --> 00:27:13,560 Where better to take stock of the transformation 425 00:27:13,560 --> 00:27:16,800 than from London Bridge's newest neighbour, the Shard? 426 00:27:20,520 --> 00:27:24,760 As a Londoner, I try to sense the excitement that the Victorians felt 427 00:27:24,760 --> 00:27:28,760 as they built the cathedrals of steam like London Bridge station, 428 00:27:28,760 --> 00:27:32,360 800 feet beneath me, and The Royal Albert Hall. 429 00:27:32,360 --> 00:27:35,760 But in truth, it takes little imagination. 430 00:27:35,760 --> 00:27:38,520 Standing at the top of Europe's tallest building 431 00:27:38,520 --> 00:27:41,080 and having seen the works that are being done 432 00:27:41,080 --> 00:27:44,920 to create new railway lines from north to south and east to west, 433 00:27:44,920 --> 00:27:48,960 I believe the metropolis is undergoing its greatest renewal 434 00:27:48,960 --> 00:27:51,640 since Queen Victoria graced the throne. 435 00:27:59,160 --> 00:28:02,880 'Next time, I help to give an old engine a fresh start...' 436 00:28:02,880 --> 00:28:09,560 Ooh, my goodness! George is getting appallingly damaged here. 437 00:28:09,560 --> 00:28:13,000 '..discover the macho side of the poet Baron...' 438 00:28:13,000 --> 00:28:16,160 He was a fantastic boxer. He had the champion of England, 439 00:28:16,160 --> 00:28:18,760 Gentleman Jackson, actually teach him how to box. 440 00:28:18,760 --> 00:28:20,920 '..and find that my cooking skills 441 00:28:20,920 --> 00:28:22,640 'aren't what they're cracked up to be.' 442 00:28:22,640 --> 00:28:25,680 There's a bit of egg shell in there, Michael. That's a point deducted.