1
00:00:03,200 --> 00:00:08,560
'For Victorian Britons, George
Bradshaw was a household name.

2
00:00:08,560 --> 00:00:10,440
'At a time when railways were new,

3
00:00:10,440 --> 00:00:14,280
'Bradshaw's guidebook inspired them
to take to the tracks.'

4
00:00:15,360 --> 00:00:18,000
I'm using a Bradshaw's guide
to understand

5
00:00:18,000 --> 00:00:20,560
how trains transformed Britain.

6
00:00:20,560 --> 00:00:22,760
Its landscape, its industries,

7
00:00:22,760 --> 00:00:25,160
society and leisure time.

8
00:00:25,160 --> 00:00:29,600
As I crisscross the country
150 years later,

9
00:00:29,600 --> 00:00:33,120
it helps me to discover
the Britain of today.

10
00:00:55,160 --> 00:00:57,720
I'm in the historic county
of East Yorkshire,

11
00:00:57,720 --> 00:01:01,040
continuing my journey
towards Lindisfarne.

12
00:01:01,040 --> 00:01:04,720
Building a bridge or tunnel
across the mighty Humber estuary

13
00:01:04,720 --> 00:01:07,200
defied even Victorian engineers.

14
00:01:07,200 --> 00:01:09,280
But on this part of my journey,

15
00:01:09,280 --> 00:01:14,040
I hope to learn about 19th-century
figures of religious conviction

16
00:01:14,040 --> 00:01:17,280
who toiled to tear down injustices

17
00:01:17,280 --> 00:01:19,840
and to construct the rights of man.

18
00:01:24,720 --> 00:01:29,760
My journey started in a significant
centre of the Industrial Revolution,

19
00:01:29,760 --> 00:01:31,560
continued on to Nottinghamshire

20
00:01:31,560 --> 00:01:33,840
and wended its way to Wakefield.

21
00:01:33,840 --> 00:01:37,120
It will now bear east
to skirt a vast estuary

22
00:01:37,120 --> 00:01:41,200
and turn back inland to be tempted
in Yorkshire's county town.

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00:01:41,200 --> 00:01:43,240
Then it will then head up the coast

24
00:01:43,240 --> 00:01:45,200
to the industrial cities
of the north,

25
00:01:45,200 --> 00:01:47,960
to end on Northumberland's
Holy Island.

26
00:01:49,080 --> 00:01:52,480
Today's leg begins in Hessle,
on the north bank of the Humber,

27
00:01:52,480 --> 00:01:54,280
makes a short hop to Hull,

28
00:01:54,280 --> 00:01:57,040
learns the tale of a bandit
in Beverley,

29
00:01:57,040 --> 00:01:59,280
then takes in the sea air
at Scarborough

30
00:01:59,280 --> 00:02:01,760
and finishes with the sweet treats
of York.

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00:02:04,760 --> 00:02:06,800
On this stretch, I step inside

32
00:02:06,800 --> 00:02:09,640
a record-breaking feat
of engineering.

33
00:02:09,640 --> 00:02:13,560
Douglas, you people built a bridge
on an extraordinary scale.

34
00:02:13,560 --> 00:02:15,520
This is a massive chamber.

35
00:02:15,520 --> 00:02:18,920
Learn of the conditions
endured by a prisoner of conscience.

36
00:02:18,920 --> 00:02:21,000
The soldiers stole his bread
and his water.

37
00:02:21,000 --> 00:02:23,320
He was treated something like
an animal in a zoo.

38
00:02:23,320 --> 00:02:26,680
And brew up a Quaker-approved
Victorian cuppa.

39
00:02:26,680 --> 00:02:30,800
Well, it looks as appetising as mud.

40
00:02:39,080 --> 00:02:40,440
Bradshaw's tells me that,

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00:02:40,440 --> 00:02:43,240
"the River Humber, the main estuary
into which the Ouse

42
00:02:43,240 --> 00:02:46,480
"and the Yorkshire streams
with the Trent flow,

43
00:02:46,480 --> 00:02:50,880
"is here two-miles broad
and widens to five or six miles

44
00:02:50,880 --> 00:02:53,200
"before it joins the sea.

45
00:02:53,200 --> 00:02:56,280
"The eastern portion of
this elevated district

46
00:02:56,280 --> 00:03:00,240
"commands a magnificent view
of that vast estuary."

47
00:03:00,240 --> 00:03:04,800
I wonder why it was that the
Victorians, who conquered the Dee,

48
00:03:04,800 --> 00:03:07,600
the Firth of Forth and the Severn,

49
00:03:07,600 --> 00:03:09,840
were unable to master the Humber?

50
00:03:12,640 --> 00:03:16,520
Covering an area
of over 75,000 acres,

51
00:03:16,520 --> 00:03:19,960
this is a tidal estuary
on an epic scale.

52
00:03:19,960 --> 00:03:22,880
For the Victorians,
it formed a barrier

53
00:03:22,880 --> 00:03:25,200
to effective trade and communication

54
00:03:25,200 --> 00:03:28,240
and they campaigned hard
to have something done about it.

55
00:03:30,000 --> 00:03:34,080
But it wasn't until over
100 years later in 1973

56
00:03:34,080 --> 00:03:37,240
that construction began
on the extraordinary structure

57
00:03:37,240 --> 00:03:40,800
that was finally to span
the Humber's huge expanse.

58
00:03:44,440 --> 00:03:46,000
'I'm hopping out at Hessle,

59
00:03:46,000 --> 00:03:49,000
'which is a small town
on the north bank of the estuary,

60
00:03:49,000 --> 00:03:51,880
'and the closest stop
to the magnificent bridge.

61
00:03:54,440 --> 00:03:57,520
'With a dramatic view of it
at the water's edge,

62
00:03:57,520 --> 00:04:00,600
'I'm joining regional historian,
Richard Clarke.'

63
00:04:01,800 --> 00:04:05,040
Now, if I know my Victorians,
they must have been itching

64
00:04:05,040 --> 00:04:08,360
to build a crossing, either a bridge
or a tunnel across the Humber.

65
00:04:08,360 --> 00:04:10,680
There were schemes being talked about

66
00:04:10,680 --> 00:04:14,440
from the railway-mania age
of the 1840s onwards.

67
00:04:14,440 --> 00:04:17,240
And so, by the late 19th century,

68
00:04:17,240 --> 00:04:20,000
the idea was to build
a cantilever bridge

69
00:04:20,000 --> 00:04:23,680
and on the principle
of the Forth Bridge, a rail bridge,

70
00:04:23,680 --> 00:04:26,040
but the cantilever bridge
would've needed

71
00:04:26,040 --> 00:04:29,680
a lot of pillars into the bed
of the estuary.

72
00:04:29,680 --> 00:04:33,480
And, of course, we have to remember
that the time we're talking about,

73
00:04:33,480 --> 00:04:37,240
100 years ago, or so,
this estuary would've had many,

74
00:04:37,240 --> 00:04:41,720
many more craft on it crisscrossing
out to the North Sea.

75
00:04:41,720 --> 00:04:45,680
And so these pillars were always
perceived

76
00:04:45,680 --> 00:04:48,920
to be a potential hazard
to navigation.

77
00:04:48,920 --> 00:04:51,920
Now, evidently, you did eventually
get a bridge.

78
00:04:51,920 --> 00:04:53,800
Yes. How did that come about?

79
00:04:53,800 --> 00:04:58,840
Once you had the Golden Gate Bridge
in San Francisco

80
00:04:58,840 --> 00:05:03,360
and examples like that of
a very wide-span suspension bridge,

81
00:05:03,360 --> 00:05:05,840
it was realised that
it was physically possible

82
00:05:05,840 --> 00:05:09,720
to bridge the Humber
without having all these pillars.

83
00:05:12,400 --> 00:05:13,640
By the time work began

84
00:05:13,640 --> 00:05:16,360
on the long-awaited bridge
in the early 1970s,

85
00:05:16,360 --> 00:05:21,000
the ascendancy of the car
had put pay to Victorian dreams

86
00:05:21,000 --> 00:05:24,120
of a bridge for both railway
and road.

87
00:05:25,120 --> 00:05:29,440
In 1981, when finally opened
by Queen Elizabeth II,

88
00:05:29,440 --> 00:05:33,600
it was the longest single-span
suspension bridge in the world.

89
00:05:33,600 --> 00:05:35,960
And remained so for 17 years,

90
00:05:35,960 --> 00:05:40,120
until surpassed by
the Akashi Kaikyo Bridge in Japan.

91
00:05:44,600 --> 00:05:48,200
Douglas Strachan spent seven years
as resident engineer

92
00:05:48,200 --> 00:05:49,960
during the bridge's construction.

93
00:05:49,960 --> 00:05:52,080
And today he's giving me
the privilege

94
00:05:52,080 --> 00:05:55,280
of accessing parts
that very few get to see.

95
00:05:58,400 --> 00:06:00,040
Douglas, I take it from the noise

96
00:06:00,040 --> 00:06:02,880
that we are underneath
the traffic crossing the bridge.

97
00:06:02,880 --> 00:06:05,320
Yes. We're in the box girders.

98
00:06:05,320 --> 00:06:08,240
There are 124 of these boxes,

99
00:06:08,240 --> 00:06:10,760
and so you can walk from anchorage
to anchorage

100
00:06:10,760 --> 00:06:13,800
through this tunnel of steel boxes.

101
00:06:13,800 --> 00:06:17,760
The anchorages at either end
of a suspension bridge

102
00:06:17,760 --> 00:06:21,240
secure vast cables slung between
the two towers

103
00:06:21,240 --> 00:06:24,360
to support the load-bearing deck
below.

104
00:06:24,360 --> 00:06:28,120
Although the Victorians
did build suspension bridges

105
00:06:28,120 --> 00:06:29,960
like Brunel's at Clifton,

106
00:06:29,960 --> 00:06:33,920
they didn't have the technology
to span the daunting distance

107
00:06:33,920 --> 00:06:36,200
between the banks of the Humber.

108
00:06:36,200 --> 00:06:39,400
Later ingenuity
unravelled the solution.

109
00:06:40,520 --> 00:06:44,720
Tell me about cable-spinning, which
is the essence of this technology.

110
00:06:44,720 --> 00:06:48,080
We're taking thousands of wires

111
00:06:48,080 --> 00:06:50,160
five millimetres in diameter

112
00:06:50,160 --> 00:06:52,320
across the river, back and forward,

113
00:06:52,320 --> 00:06:55,840
and building up 15,000 parallel wires

114
00:06:55,840 --> 00:07:00,160
and then compacting them
into one round cable.

115
00:07:00,160 --> 00:07:03,080
To see these cable-spun wires
close up,

116
00:07:03,080 --> 00:07:06,520
Douglas is taking me to
the anchorage on the north bank,

117
00:07:06,520 --> 00:07:12,320
constructed from a staggering
160,000 tonnes of concrete.

118
00:07:12,320 --> 00:07:16,240
Douglas, you people built a bridge
on an extraordinary scale.

119
00:07:16,240 --> 00:07:18,040
This is a massive chamber.

120
00:07:18,040 --> 00:07:20,680
And if I understand it,
these are the wires that support

121
00:07:20,680 --> 00:07:23,720
the bridge arriving at
their anchorage. Yes.

122
00:07:23,720 --> 00:07:28,440
And you can see behind me where
the round cable is then split up

123
00:07:28,440 --> 00:07:32,600
into the strands that I've been
talking about earlier.

124
00:07:32,600 --> 00:07:35,960
And these wires,
what sort of weight are they?

125
00:07:35,960 --> 00:07:42,480
Well, the cables themselves
are about 15,000 tonnes of wire

126
00:07:42,480 --> 00:07:46,200
and it's 70,000 kilometres
in length.

127
00:07:46,200 --> 00:07:49,600
And that's about one-and-a-half times
around the world.

128
00:07:49,600 --> 00:07:52,640
And so, what is the innovation
since Victorian times?

129
00:07:52,640 --> 00:07:55,520
I suppose it's the stronger
materials

130
00:07:55,520 --> 00:07:59,960
and using the wires are
a major step forward.

131
00:07:59,960 --> 00:08:02,480
And so, cable-spinning
was the technology

132
00:08:02,480 --> 00:08:04,800
that enabled 20th-century engineers

133
00:08:04,800 --> 00:08:07,640
to do what Victorians had not been
able to achieve?

134
00:08:07,640 --> 00:08:09,440
Exactly.

135
00:08:12,440 --> 00:08:15,120
'Continuing my journey,
I'm going to make a short trip

136
00:08:15,120 --> 00:08:16,680
'further east along the Humber

137
00:08:16,680 --> 00:08:18,840
'by re-boarding the train
at Hessle.'

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00:08:22,840 --> 00:08:25,480
My next stop is Kingston upon Hull.

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00:08:25,480 --> 00:08:28,920
Bradshaw says that it's,
"on the Yorkshire side of the Humber

140
00:08:28,920 --> 00:08:32,760
"in a very flat and uninviting spot.

141
00:08:32,760 --> 00:08:35,880
"But it is admirably fitted
for trade."

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00:08:35,880 --> 00:08:39,640
To our national disgrace,
well into the 19th century,

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00:08:39,640 --> 00:08:42,600
part of British trade
involved a triangle

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00:08:42,600 --> 00:08:45,680
that carried rum and sugar
from the Caribbean to Europe,

145
00:08:45,680 --> 00:08:48,280
brandy and guns from Europe
to Africa

146
00:08:48,280 --> 00:08:52,960
and cargoes of slaves
from Africa to the Caribbean.

147
00:08:54,960 --> 00:08:57,760
Situated 25 miles
from the North Sea,

148
00:08:57,760 --> 00:09:01,080
where the River Hull
meets the Humber,

149
00:09:01,080 --> 00:09:04,480
Kingston upon Hull,
from the 12th century,

150
00:09:04,480 --> 00:09:07,920
grew as a significant
trading and seafaring hub.

151
00:09:11,000 --> 00:09:14,040
I love the station
at Kingston upon Hull

152
00:09:14,040 --> 00:09:16,520
with its massive spans of glass.

153
00:09:16,520 --> 00:09:18,000
It's the end of the line

154
00:09:18,000 --> 00:09:20,160
and the station has a way
of saying to you,

155
00:09:20,160 --> 00:09:22,480
"Why would you want to go
any further, anyway?"

156
00:09:25,160 --> 00:09:30,520
'One man with firmly-rooted local
loyalties was William Wilberforce.

157
00:09:30,520 --> 00:09:34,080
'Fervent social reformer and perhaps
the city's most famous son.'

158
00:09:38,200 --> 00:09:40,840
"The African slave trade is contrary

159
00:09:40,840 --> 00:09:45,520
"to the principles of justice,
humanity and sound policy."

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00:09:45,520 --> 00:09:47,840
So begins the Act of Parliament

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00:09:47,840 --> 00:09:50,920
carried by William Wilberforce
in 1807.

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00:09:50,920 --> 00:09:53,840
And here stands his column,
which, according to Bradshaw's,

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00:09:53,840 --> 00:09:56,720
"was erected on 1st August, 1834,

164
00:09:56,720 --> 00:09:59,600
"the day of Negro emancipation.

165
00:09:59,600 --> 00:10:04,640
"Wilberforce was born in Hull
and died in 1833.

166
00:10:04,640 --> 00:10:07,400
"But not until he had the happiness

167
00:10:07,400 --> 00:10:11,880
"of knowing that the great work
of his useful life was achieved."

168
00:10:11,880 --> 00:10:15,560
The abolition of the slave trade
and then of slavery itself

169
00:10:15,560 --> 00:10:18,160
was the work of many decades

170
00:10:18,160 --> 00:10:21,480
and I'm here in Hull
to meet an old colleague

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00:10:21,480 --> 00:10:25,400
who well understands
the tribulations of fighting

172
00:10:25,400 --> 00:10:26,840
a reluctant parliament.

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00:10:29,960 --> 00:10:34,360
Born here in 1759
to a wealthy merchant family,

174
00:10:34,360 --> 00:10:37,840
Wilberforce was just 20
when he entered politics.

175
00:10:39,160 --> 00:10:44,080
His childhood home
was opened as a museum in 1906

176
00:10:44,080 --> 00:10:48,040
and that's where I'm meeting one
of his successors as a Hull MP,

177
00:10:48,040 --> 00:10:50,840
Alan Johnson,
who also happens to be

178
00:10:50,840 --> 00:10:54,680
a regular on-screen political
sparring partner of mine.

179
00:10:56,040 --> 00:10:59,200
Alan. Michael. Good to see you.
Welcome to Hull.

180
00:10:59,200 --> 00:11:01,960
Thank you very much and here
we are with the great man.

181
00:11:01,960 --> 00:11:03,520
The great man himself.

182
00:11:03,520 --> 00:11:04,920
Is he a hero of yours?

183
00:11:04,920 --> 00:11:07,680
He is and he's a hero to the city.

184
00:11:07,680 --> 00:11:12,360
The reason that not a single slave
was traded through the port of Hull

185
00:11:12,360 --> 00:11:14,480
was because of Wilberforce.

186
00:11:14,480 --> 00:11:20,480
He is probably the greatest person
ever born in this city.

187
00:11:20,480 --> 00:11:25,000
Now, the abolition of the slave
trade was a long old process,

188
00:11:25,000 --> 00:11:28,400
so Wilberforce had to show
a lot of commitment to it.

189
00:11:28,400 --> 00:11:31,160
Yes, and from a very young age.

190
00:11:31,160 --> 00:11:34,680
Everyone was against opposition
to the slave trade, virtually.

191
00:11:34,680 --> 00:11:37,080
It was a crucial part
of the British economy,

192
00:11:37,080 --> 00:11:41,640
so it was like trying to abolish
the automotive industry today.

193
00:11:41,640 --> 00:11:44,200
I read that at the height
of the slave trade,

194
00:11:44,200 --> 00:11:46,280
it was 80% of Britain's
foreign earnings

195
00:11:46,280 --> 00:11:48,920
and that's what Wilberforce
was fighting against.

196
00:11:48,920 --> 00:11:51,440
We all like to have done something,
made a difference.

197
00:11:51,440 --> 00:11:54,520
Wilberforce, above any other person
sitting on the back benches

198
00:11:54,520 --> 00:11:56,680
of Parliament
over these hundreds of years,

199
00:11:56,680 --> 00:11:58,400
can truly say he did that.

200
00:11:58,400 --> 00:12:00,880
I think he had a moment
of conversion, didn't he?

201
00:12:00,880 --> 00:12:03,920
He did. He was a bit of a lad,
was William. He liked his drinking,

202
00:12:03,920 --> 00:12:06,760
he liked his gambling and then
had this moment of conversion

203
00:12:06,760 --> 00:12:10,200
when he decided that he would
dedicate his life to greater,

204
00:12:10,200 --> 00:12:12,240
more Christian, more moral purposes

205
00:12:12,240 --> 00:12:14,320
and he did that
for the rest of his life

206
00:12:14,320 --> 00:12:17,480
and brought all the different
religions together in this city.

207
00:12:18,880 --> 00:12:22,360
For 30 years before Queen Victoria
ascended the throne,

208
00:12:22,360 --> 00:12:24,800
the Royal Navy
patrolled the Atlantic,

209
00:12:24,800 --> 00:12:28,880
stopping any ships suspected
of what Parliament had decreed

210
00:12:28,880 --> 00:12:30,400
an illegal trade.

211
00:12:32,600 --> 00:12:36,960
Does the spirit of Wilberforce
live on in Kingston upon Hull today?

212
00:12:36,960 --> 00:12:39,360
It does. We have
the Wilberforce Institute,

213
00:12:39,360 --> 00:12:44,040
which is probably the world's leading
expert in modern-day slavery.

214
00:12:44,040 --> 00:12:47,720
Desmond Tutu is its patron
and one of its founders

215
00:12:47,720 --> 00:12:51,200
and Hull is in the lead in monitoring

216
00:12:51,200 --> 00:12:54,640
and trying to do something
about modern-day slavery,

217
00:12:54,640 --> 00:12:59,280
because there are still 20-26 million
people being traded for slavery,

218
00:12:59,280 --> 00:13:02,680
for prostitution,
children being traded for mining

219
00:13:02,680 --> 00:13:07,000
all kinds of dangerous substances -
it still goes on to this day.

220
00:13:07,000 --> 00:13:10,160
Might William Wilberforce
be dismayed that 200 years

221
00:13:10,160 --> 00:13:12,640
after his achievement,
we're discussing slavery again.

222
00:13:12,640 --> 00:13:13,920
He would be dismayed,

223
00:13:13,920 --> 00:13:17,240
but it doesn't detract one iota
from his great achievement.

224
00:13:17,240 --> 00:13:21,360
We need the spirit of Wilberforce
to reawaken to actually deal

225
00:13:21,360 --> 00:13:26,560
with modern slavery and I think if we
do that, we do the great man justice.

226
00:13:31,680 --> 00:13:34,480
After a long but very inspiring day,

227
00:13:34,480 --> 00:13:37,960
I'm getting back on the train
at the beautiful Hull Station

228
00:13:37,960 --> 00:13:40,520
to find a handy place to rest

229
00:13:40,520 --> 00:13:43,560
by wending my way north
through the Yorkshire Wolds.

230
00:13:49,520 --> 00:13:52,720
My next stop, Beverley, has,
according to my guide book,

231
00:13:52,720 --> 00:13:54,480
"a noble minster,

232
00:13:54,480 --> 00:13:58,040
"built on the spot where
St John of Beverley was buried,

233
00:13:58,040 --> 00:14:00,760
"whose standard was carried
by King Edward I

234
00:14:00,760 --> 00:14:05,320
"in his invasion of Scotland
to encourage his soldiers."

235
00:14:05,320 --> 00:14:07,880
Those men stood and delivered,

236
00:14:07,880 --> 00:14:11,960
which was the command given in
a different context by highwaymen.

237
00:14:15,440 --> 00:14:16,680
Intriguingly,

238
00:14:16,680 --> 00:14:19,880
the establishment where I'm planning
to rest my head for the night

239
00:14:19,880 --> 00:14:22,760
has a connection
to those infamous outlaws.

240
00:14:25,440 --> 00:14:27,520
This former coaching inn played host

241
00:14:27,520 --> 00:14:30,680
to one particularly notorious
18th-century bandit.

242
00:14:32,160 --> 00:14:36,200
I'm meeting up with manager
Mark Coubrough to find out more.

243
00:14:36,200 --> 00:14:38,760
Well, now, the Beverley Arms
is the only place

244
00:14:38,760 --> 00:14:43,480
in my Bradshaw's Guide that
is recommended, so here I am.

245
00:14:43,480 --> 00:14:46,640
But I think it has a story to do
with highwaymen, doesn't it?

246
00:14:46,640 --> 00:14:49,360
Yes, I believe Dick Turpin
stayed here at the hotel

247
00:14:49,360 --> 00:14:53,120
and apparently checked in under
an alias of the name Mr Palmer.

248
00:14:53,120 --> 00:14:55,120
During the course of his stay,

249
00:14:55,120 --> 00:14:57,120
there was an altercation
with the landlord,

250
00:14:57,120 --> 00:14:59,560
due to the landlord's cockerel
making all these noises

251
00:14:59,560 --> 00:15:01,800
in the early hours of the morning,

252
00:15:01,800 --> 00:15:04,160
at which point,
our Mr Palmer turns around

253
00:15:04,160 --> 00:15:06,160
and shoots the landlord's cockerel,

254
00:15:06,160 --> 00:15:09,520
so the landlord gets
the constabulary involved,

255
00:15:09,520 --> 00:15:12,840
who come and promptly arrest
our Mr Palmer.

256
00:15:12,840 --> 00:15:15,560
Mr Palmer,
while sat in the Beverley jails,

257
00:15:15,560 --> 00:15:17,120
decides he'll write to his brother

258
00:15:17,120 --> 00:15:19,480
and ask for a sixpence to be able
to get him out of prison.

259
00:15:19,480 --> 00:15:23,920
Unfortunately, the postmaster
is his headmaster from school,

260
00:15:23,920 --> 00:15:25,840
recognises his handwriting,

261
00:15:25,840 --> 00:15:29,040
then gets in touch with
the Beverley constabulary and says,

262
00:15:29,040 --> 00:15:30,640
"You've not arrested a Mr Palmer.

263
00:15:30,640 --> 00:15:33,640
"You've actually arrested
THE Dick Turpin."

264
00:15:33,640 --> 00:15:37,880
So when they did realise they had
the famous highwayman Dick Turpin,

265
00:15:37,880 --> 00:15:39,360
what was his fate?

266
00:15:39,360 --> 00:15:42,120
At that point, I think
the magistrates got together

267
00:15:42,120 --> 00:15:45,160
and said, "You know what,
we'll get a much bigger audience

268
00:15:45,160 --> 00:15:46,880
"if we send him to York,"

269
00:15:46,880 --> 00:15:49,720
and that's where
they eventually hung him

270
00:15:49,720 --> 00:15:52,720
and did all the ghastly things
that they needed to do to him.

271
00:15:52,720 --> 00:15:55,000
Well, I hope it's not
the fate of everyone

272
00:15:55,000 --> 00:15:57,920
who hangs out at The Beverley Arms.
I hope not! No.

273
00:16:06,840 --> 00:16:09,720
Well, after a thankfully
uneventful night

274
00:16:09,720 --> 00:16:13,480
without even so much as a cockerel
to interrupt my sleep,

275
00:16:13,480 --> 00:16:16,480
I've just enough time
before I depart on my journey

276
00:16:16,480 --> 00:16:19,080
to take in the town's
most famous landmark.

277
00:16:20,440 --> 00:16:25,680
According to my guide book,
Beverley Minister is 333 feet long

278
00:16:25,680 --> 00:16:27,320
and I can well believe it.

279
00:16:27,320 --> 00:16:31,400
On this trip, I have seen some
superb ecclesiastical buildings

280
00:16:31,400 --> 00:16:35,800
and it's a reminder that for most
of the last 2,000 years,

281
00:16:35,800 --> 00:16:39,720
religion mattered to us
much more than anything else.

282
00:16:43,360 --> 00:16:45,760
To reach my first
destination of the day,

283
00:16:45,760 --> 00:16:49,040
I'm continuing north from Beverley
and heading for the coast.

284
00:16:55,360 --> 00:16:57,800
I'll be leaving the train
at Scarborough,

285
00:16:57,800 --> 00:17:00,800
about which Bradshaw's
is enthusiastic.

286
00:17:00,800 --> 00:17:04,720
"Its situation is extremely
beautiful and romantic,

287
00:17:04,720 --> 00:17:07,560
"being on the recess
of a fine, open bay

288
00:17:07,560 --> 00:17:10,840
"and the town consists
of several spacious streets

289
00:17:10,840 --> 00:17:15,680
"of handsome, well-built houses
rising in successive tiers

290
00:17:15,680 --> 00:17:19,200
"from the shore in the form
of an amphitheatre."

291
00:17:19,200 --> 00:17:23,280
But I'm going there to hear about
one who was a prisoner of conscience

292
00:17:23,280 --> 00:17:25,720
and who might be forgiven,
therefore,

293
00:17:25,720 --> 00:17:29,000
for not having very happy
memories of Scarborough.

294
00:17:30,760 --> 00:17:33,040
Tickets and passes, please.

295
00:17:33,040 --> 00:17:34,880
Thank you very much, love.

296
00:17:34,880 --> 00:17:36,920
I'm on my way to Scarborough.

297
00:17:36,920 --> 00:17:39,520
Does Scarborough still attract
a lot of holidaymakers? Yes.

298
00:17:39,520 --> 00:17:42,080
They go off into Scarborough
for day trips and everything.

299
00:17:42,080 --> 00:17:44,640
And they're carrying picnic baskets?
Yeah, everything.

300
00:17:44,640 --> 00:17:45,720
We're always busy.

301
00:17:45,720 --> 00:17:48,600
It's always nice to see all the kids
being energetic and excited.

302
00:17:48,600 --> 00:17:51,200
When they're coming back,
they're great, cos they're tired,

303
00:17:51,200 --> 00:17:53,720
and they're quiet on the train.
Going there, they're loud.

304
00:17:56,680 --> 00:18:00,320
The immense popularity of
this buoyant beachside town

305
00:18:00,320 --> 00:18:05,840
really took hold in 1845 when the
Scarborough to York railway opened

306
00:18:05,840 --> 00:18:09,920
and brought with it
waves of Victorian tourists.

307
00:18:09,920 --> 00:18:12,160
One of the attractions
they flocked to

308
00:18:12,160 --> 00:18:15,160
was the town's evocative
12th-century castle.

309
00:18:19,120 --> 00:18:21,480
Built by a succession
of medieval kings,

310
00:18:21,480 --> 00:18:24,400
this royal fortress
endured countless attacks.

311
00:18:26,120 --> 00:18:28,160
In the middle of the 17th century,

312
00:18:28,160 --> 00:18:30,240
it served briefly as a prison

313
00:18:30,240 --> 00:18:34,000
and it's that period of the castle's
history that interests me.

314
00:18:36,720 --> 00:18:38,720
What a wonderful view.

315
00:18:38,720 --> 00:18:40,160
Bradshaw's tells me that,

316
00:18:40,160 --> 00:18:42,760
"Scarborough Castle
crowns a precipitous rock

317
00:18:42,760 --> 00:18:45,960
"about 300 feet above the waters.

318
00:18:45,960 --> 00:18:50,240
"As this old feudal stronghold
looks down upon the sea on one side,

319
00:18:50,240 --> 00:18:53,520
"it has the town of Scarborough
stretched below it.

320
00:18:53,520 --> 00:18:58,840
"In 1666 George Fox, founder
of the Society of Friends,

321
00:18:58,840 --> 00:19:01,000
"was imprisoned in the castle,"

322
00:19:01,000 --> 00:19:04,920
and so here we find
the beauty of nature

323
00:19:04,920 --> 00:19:09,240
and the ugliness of the conflicts
of man in the name of God.

324
00:19:11,160 --> 00:19:13,000
Born in 1624,

325
00:19:13,000 --> 00:19:15,880
George Fox had a radical
approach to Christianity

326
00:19:15,880 --> 00:19:20,600
that gained him popularity
and persecution in equal measure.

327
00:19:20,600 --> 00:19:23,480
Society of Friends members,
known as Quakers,

328
00:19:23,480 --> 00:19:26,920
relied on conscience
as the basis of morality

329
00:19:26,920 --> 00:19:29,720
and believed in the equality
of men and women.

330
00:19:30,800 --> 00:19:33,200
Many of the slave trade
abolitionists

331
00:19:33,200 --> 00:19:37,720
who joined William Wilberforce's
campaign were Quakers.

332
00:19:37,720 --> 00:19:41,440
So was George Bradshaw, so
I can imagine this Scarborough site

333
00:19:41,440 --> 00:19:43,520
would have been significant for him.

334
00:19:45,160 --> 00:19:48,720
Rachael Holland is
an historic properties steward,

335
00:19:48,720 --> 00:19:51,440
who I'm hoping will offer
some more details

336
00:19:51,440 --> 00:19:55,000
on how George Fox came
to be incarcerated here.

337
00:19:55,000 --> 00:19:57,040
What, as far as you know,
was his crime?

338
00:19:57,040 --> 00:19:59,680
As far as I'm aware, his main crime
was refusing to swear

339
00:19:59,680 --> 00:20:01,920
an oath of allegiance
to Charles II.

340
00:20:01,920 --> 00:20:05,880
At this point, we've just finished
the Civil War, Cromwell's just died,

341
00:20:05,880 --> 00:20:09,880
and we now have the Restoration.
Charles II is now in power,

342
00:20:09,880 --> 00:20:12,040
but this is a time when
religion and politics

343
00:20:12,040 --> 00:20:13,600
were very closely intertwined

344
00:20:13,600 --> 00:20:16,880
so for George Fox to be refusing
to swear allegiance to the king

345
00:20:16,880 --> 00:20:20,720
and refusing to swear any allegiance
to any sort of physical church,

346
00:20:20,720 --> 00:20:22,440
it was seen as being very subversive.

347
00:20:22,440 --> 00:20:25,840
What was Fox's objection
to swearing an oath?

348
00:20:25,840 --> 00:20:30,440
Basically, he says in his diaries
that any hypocrite can swear an oath.

349
00:20:30,440 --> 00:20:33,280
He says that loyalty is proven
by deeds, not by words

350
00:20:33,280 --> 00:20:36,240
and at that time, when everybody
has already sworn one oath,

351
00:20:36,240 --> 00:20:38,600
saying that they would
uphold Cromwell's rule

352
00:20:38,600 --> 00:20:39,960
and then to turn around and say,

353
00:20:39,960 --> 00:20:42,680
"No, actually we are going
to swear an oath to Charles,"

354
00:20:42,680 --> 00:20:45,640
I can see where George Fox
was coming from.

355
00:20:45,640 --> 00:20:47,320
Their unconventional views

356
00:20:47,320 --> 00:20:50,040
enraged the religious
and political establishment

357
00:20:50,040 --> 00:20:53,320
and between 1662 and 1670,

358
00:20:53,320 --> 00:20:57,720
as many as 6,000 Quakers
found themselves in jail.

359
00:20:57,720 --> 00:20:59,880
Fox's spell at Scarborough Castle

360
00:20:59,880 --> 00:21:04,040
was just one of eight
prison sentences that he endured.

361
00:21:04,040 --> 00:21:09,280
Rachael, I am trying to imagine the
conditions of Fox's imprisonment.

362
00:21:09,280 --> 00:21:12,280
Bradshaw's tells me that Fox speaks

363
00:21:12,280 --> 00:21:15,960
of three different rooms
that he successively occupied,

364
00:21:15,960 --> 00:21:19,200
and "one of them faced the sea,
and laying much open,

365
00:21:19,200 --> 00:21:22,280
"the wind drove in
the rain forcibly,

366
00:21:22,280 --> 00:21:25,960
"so that water came over his head
and ran about the room

367
00:21:25,960 --> 00:21:29,640
"so that he was fain to skim it up
with a platter."

368
00:21:29,640 --> 00:21:31,280
Terrible conditions.

369
00:21:31,280 --> 00:21:32,840
Very terrible conditions.

370
00:21:32,840 --> 00:21:35,680
I believe as well that that was
the last room that he was held in,

371
00:21:35,680 --> 00:21:38,280
which many sources believe
to be Cockhill Tower,

372
00:21:38,280 --> 00:21:40,280
which he called "Purgatory".

373
00:21:41,680 --> 00:21:45,680
Prolonged exposure to the elements
caused Fox's fingers to swell

374
00:21:45,680 --> 00:21:49,160
to double their size
and his health suffered greatly,

375
00:21:49,160 --> 00:21:51,120
but his faith never faltered.

376
00:21:51,120 --> 00:21:55,080
In 1666, he was released
from Scarborough Castle

377
00:21:55,080 --> 00:21:57,760
and by the time of
his death in 1691,

378
00:21:57,760 --> 00:22:01,840
the Quaker movement had
more than 50,000 followers.

379
00:22:01,840 --> 00:22:04,560
How was he treated by those
who were given charge of him?

380
00:22:04,560 --> 00:22:06,240
It was atrocious.

381
00:22:06,240 --> 00:22:08,680
The soldiers stole his bread
and his water,

382
00:22:08,680 --> 00:22:10,680
but worse was the fact
that he was treated

383
00:22:10,680 --> 00:22:12,200
something like an animal in a zoo.

384
00:22:12,200 --> 00:22:14,200
They gawked at him,
he says in his diaries,

385
00:22:14,200 --> 00:22:17,040
and they tried to convert him back
to the standard faith at the time,

386
00:22:17,040 --> 00:22:19,720
but it seems that he converted
more of them than they did of him.

387
00:22:19,720 --> 00:22:22,960
I'd never thought of
16 months in Scarborough

388
00:22:22,960 --> 00:22:24,960
as being the ultimate test of faith

389
00:22:27,160 --> 00:22:29,760
My time here is measured in minutes,

390
00:22:29,760 --> 00:22:31,760
because I have a train to catch,

391
00:22:31,760 --> 00:22:35,680
taking me west to the final
destination of today's journey,

392
00:22:35,680 --> 00:22:38,520
which also has a Quaker connection.

393
00:22:38,520 --> 00:22:40,120
SHE BLOWS WHISTLE

394
00:22:47,040 --> 00:22:49,240
My next stop is
what Bradshaw's calls

395
00:22:49,240 --> 00:22:53,000
"the ancient capital of York
and seat of the Primate of England.

396
00:22:53,000 --> 00:22:56,000
"Situated at the junction
of the three Ridings of Yorkshire

397
00:22:56,000 --> 00:22:58,080
"on the River Ouse.

398
00:22:58,080 --> 00:23:01,400
"Boots, shoes, combs
and confectionary

399
00:23:01,400 --> 00:23:03,680
"are the chief articles made here."

400
00:23:03,680 --> 00:23:05,800
The men of chocolate,
Joseph Rowntree -

401
00:23:05,800 --> 00:23:07,920
who was a Quaker
like George Bradshaw -

402
00:23:07,920 --> 00:23:11,960
and Joseph Terry,
have left sweet memories in York.

403
00:23:14,400 --> 00:23:19,280
Its prime position on the rivers
Ouse and Foss gave York easy access

404
00:23:19,280 --> 00:23:23,400
to imported goods,
including sugar and cocoa beans,

405
00:23:23,400 --> 00:23:25,160
while the fertile Vale of York

406
00:23:25,160 --> 00:23:28,720
provided many other essential
confectionery ingredients.

407
00:23:30,520 --> 00:23:34,400
When York also became a railway hub
in the 19th century,

408
00:23:34,400 --> 00:23:39,000
it had the perfect recipe for
a lucrative sweet-making industry.

409
00:23:43,040 --> 00:23:47,160
I'm here to meet Alex Hutchinson,
who's the historian and archivist

410
00:23:47,160 --> 00:23:50,040
for one of the companies
that took full advantage.

411
00:23:51,040 --> 00:23:54,440
Here we are surveying
the vast estate that was Rowntree's.

412
00:23:54,440 --> 00:23:57,040
How did this
enormous business begin?

413
00:23:57,040 --> 00:24:01,360
Well, in 1862, Henry Isaac Rowntree
took over a local cocoa business

414
00:24:01,360 --> 00:24:04,480
and he didn't do a very good job.
His brother Joseph came to help him

415
00:24:04,480 --> 00:24:06,760
and he turned it from
a drinking cocoa business

416
00:24:06,760 --> 00:24:09,440
into the huge sweet factory
we know today.

417
00:24:09,440 --> 00:24:12,600
That drinking cocoa, what was
it like? Was it a good product?

418
00:24:12,600 --> 00:24:15,200
Their first cocoa would have
been quite unpalatable.

419
00:24:15,200 --> 00:24:17,080
It was seen as a health food.

420
00:24:17,080 --> 00:24:20,240
They were using very, very
primitive manufacturing methods,

421
00:24:20,240 --> 00:24:22,760
so it would have been quite
astringent and gritty.

422
00:24:22,760 --> 00:24:25,920
Quakers are strongly associated
with chocolate making.

423
00:24:25,920 --> 00:24:29,480
Why? In 1860, we passed a law,
the Food and Drugs Act,

424
00:24:29,480 --> 00:24:32,200
which prevented people from
putting anything poisonous

425
00:24:32,200 --> 00:24:33,400
or hazardous into food.

426
00:24:33,400 --> 00:24:35,400
Before that you could put in
anything you liked

427
00:24:35,400 --> 00:24:37,040
and so people tended to trust Quakers

428
00:24:37,040 --> 00:24:40,200
if they were buying food. and with
chocolate you would sometimes get

429
00:24:40,200 --> 00:24:44,440
unscrupulous chocolate makers adding
wax or paint. But a Quaker? Never.

430
00:24:46,720 --> 00:24:50,840
At its peak,
Rowntree's employed 14,000 people.

431
00:24:50,840 --> 00:24:54,120
As Quakers given to philanthropy
and social reform,

432
00:24:54,120 --> 00:24:58,640
they built a public library, park
and theatre for their workers,

433
00:24:58,640 --> 00:25:00,760
and also created a model village,

434
00:25:00,760 --> 00:25:03,200
providing affordable
and decent homes

435
00:25:03,200 --> 00:25:05,720
as an alternative
to inner-city slums.

436
00:25:09,520 --> 00:25:11,040
Known as New Earswick,

437
00:25:11,040 --> 00:25:14,080
the village was built
to include plenty of green space,

438
00:25:14,080 --> 00:25:16,120
its own village hall...

439
00:25:16,120 --> 00:25:20,560
but no pub,
and it remains dry to this day.

440
00:25:20,560 --> 00:25:23,760
There were three things that
the Rowntrees really objected to,

441
00:25:23,760 --> 00:25:26,440
which they called
"concrete forms of sin"

442
00:25:26,440 --> 00:25:30,120
and that was alcoholism,
priestcraft and Toryism.

443
00:25:30,120 --> 00:25:32,320
Ah, in ascending order. Yes.

444
00:25:33,560 --> 00:25:36,840
When the entrepreneurial Joseph
stepped in to help his brother,

445
00:25:36,840 --> 00:25:40,360
he set about expanding and
modernising the company's output.

446
00:25:40,360 --> 00:25:43,040
He developed a range
of chocolate products

447
00:25:43,040 --> 00:25:47,720
and his masterstroke was hiring
a Frenchman to make fruit pastilles,

448
00:25:47,720 --> 00:25:50,160
a trade dominated by the French.

449
00:25:50,160 --> 00:25:52,800
Today, in the factory's
development kitchen,

450
00:25:52,800 --> 00:25:55,360
I'm going back
to where it all began...

451
00:25:55,360 --> 00:25:57,480
So we have the cocoa beans,

452
00:25:57,480 --> 00:26:00,040
which are roasted and ground down
into cocoa nibs.

453
00:26:00,040 --> 00:26:02,480
..by helping head
confectioner Vicky Geal

454
00:26:02,480 --> 00:26:06,160
to try to replicate
that original 1860s cocoa recipe.

455
00:26:06,160 --> 00:26:07,400
Start grinding.

456
00:26:07,400 --> 00:26:08,880
I'm just grinding these down,

457
00:26:08,880 --> 00:26:11,440
trying to get them
into a powder, am I? Yep.

458
00:26:11,440 --> 00:26:13,400
This takes quite a lot of effort,
doesn't it?

459
00:26:13,400 --> 00:26:16,200
It does, it's very labour intensive,
which is why we're glad now

460
00:26:16,200 --> 00:26:18,240
we've got the machinery
to be able to do this

461
00:26:18,240 --> 00:26:19,680
instead of doing it by hand.

462
00:26:19,680 --> 00:26:20,920
You didn't tell me that!

463
00:26:23,720 --> 00:26:25,480
Right, whoa!

464
00:26:25,480 --> 00:26:29,000
What we need to do now is
add your Icelandic moss.

465
00:26:29,000 --> 00:26:30,840
Icelandic moss?

466
00:26:30,840 --> 00:26:32,920
Why would you add moss?

467
00:26:32,920 --> 00:26:37,000
In the 1860s, the Rowntrees added a
kind of lichen called Icelandic moss

468
00:26:37,000 --> 00:26:40,680
to their cocoa to improve the health
benefits, also to absorb the fat.

469
00:26:40,680 --> 00:26:42,920
Er...eurgh!

470
00:26:42,920 --> 00:26:44,280
Bitter aftertaste.

471
00:26:44,280 --> 00:26:47,520
For teetotal Quakers
like the Rowntrees,

472
00:26:47,520 --> 00:26:50,760
cocoa was a wholesome alternative
to the alcoholic drinks

473
00:26:50,760 --> 00:26:54,480
which they blamed for
many of society's ills.

474
00:26:54,480 --> 00:26:57,680
Well, it looks as appetising as mud.

475
00:26:59,440 --> 00:27:00,840
How does it taste?

476
00:27:00,840 --> 00:27:03,600
It's full of bits,
but I don't know.

477
00:27:03,600 --> 00:27:05,480
If you were a Victorian,
it'd be new.

478
00:27:05,480 --> 00:27:07,680
You'd probably be willing
to pay for that.

479
00:27:07,680 --> 00:27:09,840
If you thought it was doing
you some good...

480
00:27:09,840 --> 00:27:11,480
Yeah, well, it tastes bad enough

481
00:27:11,480 --> 00:27:13,880
that you would think
it was doing you some good.

482
00:27:13,880 --> 00:27:17,680
Finishing today's journey with
a nourishing Victorian elixir

483
00:27:17,680 --> 00:27:22,960
seems rather fitting...even if
it was a little lumpy and bitter.

484
00:27:22,960 --> 00:27:25,440
During the course of
my travels with Bradshaw's,

485
00:27:25,440 --> 00:27:28,200
I've discovered how much
we owe the Victorians

486
00:27:28,200 --> 00:27:30,280
for our physical environment -

487
00:27:30,280 --> 00:27:34,760
our railway network, our sewers,
even our parliament in London,

488
00:27:34,760 --> 00:27:39,000
but we also inherited
many of their values.

489
00:27:39,000 --> 00:27:42,440
By degrees, they built
our parliamentary democracy,

490
00:27:42,440 --> 00:27:46,960
abolished slavery and child labour,
universalised education,

491
00:27:46,960 --> 00:27:50,320
hugely enlarging the rights of man.

492
00:27:50,320 --> 00:27:52,120
The rights of women, however,

493
00:27:52,120 --> 00:27:54,200
in particular the right to vote,

494
00:27:54,200 --> 00:27:57,320
were left over to be dealt with
in the 20th century.

495
00:28:05,000 --> 00:28:08,760
Next time, I'll feel the heat
of a Victorian furnace...

496
00:28:08,760 --> 00:28:11,600
Look at that, a nice
little flambe for us.

497
00:28:11,600 --> 00:28:14,920
..learn how investigative journalism
was born...

498
00:28:14,920 --> 00:28:17,880
He built the devil up, and just like
any good newspaper man,

499
00:28:17,880 --> 00:28:20,800
he took great delight
in knocking the devil down.

500
00:28:20,800 --> 00:28:25,480
..and hear how a remarkable Bible
survived down the centuries.

501
00:28:25,480 --> 00:28:29,360
It's quite a large book to lose,
actually. It certainly is!