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For Victorian Britons,

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George Bradshaw was
a household name.

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At a time when railways were new,

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Bradshaw's guidebook inspired them
to take to the tracks.

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I'm using a Bradshaw's guide

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to understand how trains
transformed Britain -

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its landscape, its industries,

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society and leisure time.

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As I crisscross the country,
150 years later,

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it helps me to discover the Britain
of today.

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I've embarked on a new journey
that begins in Wales -

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a territory once thought
so troublesome

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the English monarchs peppered it
with castles.

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Since 1301, they've taken care
to name their heir apparent

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Prince of Wales.

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The Industrial Revolution
transformed the South,

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so that by Victorian times,

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despite its remoteness
from the seat of power,

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it was valued by
the national economy

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and by the Royal Family.

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My journey will take me across
Bradshaw's Britain

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from west to east.

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From the industrial powerhouse
of South Wales,

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I'll see how the railways left
no corner of the land unchanged

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through the agricultural heartlands

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of the Welsh borders
and the Cotswolds.

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I'll finish by travelling between
the twin pillars of English academia

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at Oxford and Cambridge.

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The first leg will cover 65 miles

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from the Welsh west coast,

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via Carmarthenshire, to Swansea.

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I'll visit the dockyard

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that built Queen Victoria's
Royal yacht.

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When she was launched,

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she was the biggest yacht of any kind
in the world.

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Discover a 19th-century
rural railway

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being given a new lease of life.

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It is the most beautiful
summer's day

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and this lovely restored track
threads its way along

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the scenic valley
of the Gwili River,

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and I'm on my own private train.

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What bliss!

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And learn how to pose for
a photograph Victorian style.

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Try not to smile,
because in Victorian times,

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if you're smiling,
you seemed a bit of a buffoon.

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I wish someone had told me that
long ago.

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My first stop will be Pembroke Dock,

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which Bradshaw's tells me

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"is the seat of a Royal dockyard

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"at the head of that magnificent
inlet called Milford Haven".

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"The town takes its name
from the Welsh Penfro,

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"meaning head of a peninsula."

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The dockyard is celebrating
its bicentenary.

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It was built in 1814,

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when we were still at war
with Napoleon Bonaparte.

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By Victorian times,
it was still serving country

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and, especially, Queen.

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Before the arrival
of the railway in 1864,

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this was an isolated corner
of the country,

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but the deep waters of the haven

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made it an ideal site
for a shipyard.

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And as Britain battled
Napoleonic France

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in the early 19th century,

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the admiralty built
naval vessels here.

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I'm surveying the town's history

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from a 19th-century gun tower

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with Martin Cavaney.

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The dockyard only opens

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as the Napoleonic Wars
are coming to an end.

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Was that a problem for
the dockyard at Pembroke?

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No, far from it. Pembroke Dock
became boomtown Wales.

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People came from all over
the country here

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to work at the dockyard.

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It employed 3,000 men at its height.

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And, of course, you had
to service them

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with shops and pubs and houses.

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So, this place suddenly expanded out

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from a greenfield site into a town.

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The gun tower dates from the town's
Victorian heyday,

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by which time Britannia
ruled the waves

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with the biggest and best navy
in the world.

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Victory over Napoleon
at Waterloo in 1815

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had marked the start
of a new era of peace.

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But the admiralty remained watchful.

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1848-49, the year of revolution
in Europe, especially in France,

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it was realised that
the British dockyards

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were wide open to attack
from the sea.

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So, in 1849, Lord Palmerston
ordered a defence-building programme

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and a chain of fortifications
was built to protect the dockyard,

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stretching the 12 miles down to
the mouth of the Haven waterway.

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Were these guns ever fired?

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Never fired in anger.

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Its defences were three
of these canons on the roof

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and then, on the ground floor,
there were three 12-pound howitzers,

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which could be moved around
the building to fire

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from any of the windows. Better safe
than sorry, I suppose. Yes.

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From sailing boats to
Industrial Age steamships,

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263 naval vessels were built here

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over the lifetime of
the Royal dockyard.

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But not all of them
were designed with war in mind.

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The Pembroke Dock Heritage Centre

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commemorates the yachts
that added prestige

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to Queen Victoria's travels.

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Ted Goddard is my guide.

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Ted. Welcome, Michael.
Great to be here.

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Ted, that is the most handsome
vessel. Which one is this?

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This is the third
Victoria and Albert.

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There were five Royal yachts built
here at Pembroke Dock.

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That's the first V&A over there,
by the wall. Yeah.

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Much smaller. So, they got
bigger and bigger, did they?

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Yeah, the first one was
about 1,200 tonnes.

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The second V&A was
twice that - 2,400.

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And this one was 5,500 tonnes.

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She was a mighty ship.

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When she was launched,
she was the biggest yacht

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of any kind in the world.

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That was in 1899,

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and that record held right until
the 1930s.

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I remember from my days
in the Ministry of Defence that

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the yachts were traditionally crewed
by the Royal Navy.

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Presumably, that was true of
this one.

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Yes, there was a crew
of just over 360,

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who were accommodated in this section
of the ship,

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just forward of the bow.

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The officers were next then,

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their wardroom was underneath
the bridge here.

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And then the Royal apartments
here and along here were...

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occupied the rest of the ship,

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and the crew were crammed
in there like sardines.

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Launched in 1899,
the third Victoria and Albert

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wasn't commissioned for service
until 1901,

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the year of the Queen's death.

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But the yacht lived on
to serve her descendants.

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TELEVISION ANNOUNCER: And a salute
of 21 guns booms out over the Solent

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and echoes back seconds later
to its King.

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In 1939, King George VI,
the Queen's father,

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the Queen Mother, the two princesses,
Elizabeth and Margaret,

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were taken on a cruise
to the West Country,

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and the V&A anchored off
Dartmouth.

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And that evening, a young Philip
Mountbatten came on board to dine.

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Of course, now the Duke of
Edinburgh, the Queen's husband.

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And it's believed to be
the first recorded time

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that...Philip Mountbatten
and Princess Elizabeth met.

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So, the yacht has a romantic
as well as a Royal connection.

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Indeed...indeed it has.

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The Royal dockyard closed in 1926

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and shipbuilding declined.

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Today, just one firm remains.

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And before I leave,

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I'm meeting its operations director,
Kevin Lewis.

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Kevin. Ah, good morning.

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A 200-year-old dockyard
that used to produce

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Royal yachts and frigates and so on.

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Good to see something
still happening here.

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Yeah, it is good. It's, you know,
the history of the place

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and we...we're, I guess, trying
to make sure that it continues.

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I've known the place
since I was around 14 or 15,

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when I first came down here
with my father.

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And I stood on the end of the dock
with my father,

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looking down into the dock,
watching the welders.

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And I said to him, "I think that's
what I want to do when I grow up.

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"That's what I want to do."

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And what are you having to do
to this boat?

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This boat's just come in,
we slipped it yesterday.

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It's coming in for a refit
and refurb.

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We're going to put new accommodation
into it,

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going to modify the superstructure,
amongst other things.

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Big job. Quite a big job, yeah.

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I'm glad to have glimpsed

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a reminder of Pembroke Dock's
shipbuilding heritage.

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It's now time to turn my back
on the sea

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and join the West Wales railway.

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This branch was extended to serve
the dockyard in the 1860s.

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I'm following it inland,

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where local people relied on farming
in Bradshaw's day.

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I'll leave this train at Narberth,

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Bradshaw's tells me it "has no
particular object of attraction,

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"being a small, neat town".

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A picture of provincial
tranquillity, you might think,

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but you'd be wrong.

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Shortly after Victoria
came to the throne,

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its placidity was shattered

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by a severe outbreak
of public disorder.

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The mid-19th century
was a difficult time

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for Britain's agricultural
communities,

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due to population growth,
poor harvests

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and economic depression.

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Here in South West Wales,

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growing discontent found
extraordinary expression,

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as masked men donned
women's clothing

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to stage violent protests
across the countryside.

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Historian Rhian Jones is filling me
in on the story.

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So, you've brought me to this
imposing stone building, why?

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Well, this is Narberth Workhouse.

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It was built in 1820.

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And in 1843, it was a target
of Rebecca rioters.

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Rebecca rioters were mainly
tenant farmers from this area

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who had several grievances
in the 1840s,

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and they took out their grievances
on various targets,

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00:10:41,360 --> 00:10:44,120
including workhouses and tollgates.

201
00:10:44,120 --> 00:10:46,400
And these workhouses...
Now, if I remember,

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there'd been a new Poor Law
in 1834. That's right.

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So, conditions inside were wretched,
weren't they, wretched?

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Yes, conditions in workhouses were
meant to be deliberately harsher

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than the worst conditions
that you might suffer outside,

206
00:11:00,320 --> 00:11:04,320
deliberately to deter people
from accessing that support.

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00:11:04,320 --> 00:11:05,680
Choosing idleness.

208
00:11:05,680 --> 00:11:06,760
Exactly, exactly.

209
00:11:08,200 --> 00:11:11,360
As well as demanding better
conditions in workhouses,

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00:11:11,360 --> 00:11:14,160
the Rebecca rioters destroyed
the tollgates,

211
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used to collect fees from road users

212
00:11:16,240 --> 00:11:19,440
which had grown in number
since the early 19th century.

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Dressed as women, the culprits
were hard to identify.

214
00:11:25,640 --> 00:11:28,800
And surely there was a reason
for choosing the name Rebecca.

215
00:11:30,120 --> 00:11:33,680
There's two conflicting theories
about this.

216
00:11:33,680 --> 00:11:38,600
The first is that the leader
of the fist riot, in 1839,

217
00:11:38,600 --> 00:11:43,120
borrowed a disguise, a dress,
from a local lady called Rebecca,

218
00:11:43,120 --> 00:11:45,480
who was the only woman around
sufficiently statuesque

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00:11:45,480 --> 00:11:47,160
to have a dress that would fit him.

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00:11:47,160 --> 00:11:51,200
The other idea is that they took it
from a verse in Genesis

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which begins
"and they blessed Rebecca".

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00:11:53,720 --> 00:11:56,560
And it goes on to prophesise that

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Rebecca's children will possess
the gates of those that hate them.

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Rebecca and her daughters
didn't succeed

225
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in abolishing the tolls completely,

226
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but in 1844, new legislation
was brought in

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to simplify the toll rates.

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And new technology brought
some relief.

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Well, the expansion of the railways
into Wales in the 19th century

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was hugely beneficial.

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00:12:19,680 --> 00:12:22,920
And, of course, it obviously did a
lot to make roads less important.

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00:12:22,920 --> 00:12:26,680
So there was far less reliance
on private transport,

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00:12:26,680 --> 00:12:28,080
cos people used trains instead.

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00:12:28,080 --> 00:12:31,120
So that was probably quite handy for
local farmers, I would've thought.

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And a general increase in
living standards. Yes, absolutely.

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I'm rejoining those
transformative tracks,

237
00:12:41,040 --> 00:12:42,840
in search of a bed for the night.

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00:12:45,640 --> 00:12:49,960
The West Wales line continues
to serve the local community.

239
00:12:49,960 --> 00:12:52,520
Some of the smaller stations
are request stops.

240
00:13:02,880 --> 00:13:04,600
Hello. Hi.

241
00:13:04,600 --> 00:13:07,000
Do I need to request the train
to stop at Carmarthen?

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00:13:07,000 --> 00:13:09,440
No, Carmarthen's a main station.
OK, great.

243
00:13:09,440 --> 00:13:12,000
There we go. You don't have too many
trains on this line,

244
00:13:12,000 --> 00:13:14,840
but they're very full when they run,
aren't they? Oh, they are, yes.

245
00:13:14,840 --> 00:13:16,560
Always a busy train. That's great.

246
00:13:20,520 --> 00:13:22,320
I'm using the line to reach

247
00:13:22,320 --> 00:13:26,760
one of South West Wales'
most historic towns, Carmarthen,

248
00:13:26,760 --> 00:13:29,000
where my Victorian guidebook
tells me

249
00:13:29,000 --> 00:13:31,320
that I'll find the Ivy Bush Hotel.

250
00:13:36,000 --> 00:13:37,760
Before the arrival of the railways,

251
00:13:37,760 --> 00:13:39,840
it was a thriving coaching inn,

252
00:13:39,840 --> 00:13:43,920
whose patrons included naval
personnel travelling to and from

253
00:13:43,920 --> 00:13:46,080
the sheltered waters of the haven.

254
00:13:48,560 --> 00:13:51,440
I'm moved by the true love

255
00:13:51,440 --> 00:13:54,040
between Admiral Horatio Nelson,

256
00:13:54,040 --> 00:13:56,680
a national hero and married man,

257
00:13:56,680 --> 00:13:58,480
and Emma Hamilton,

258
00:13:58,480 --> 00:14:01,640
a former prostitute
and married woman.

259
00:14:01,640 --> 00:14:05,480
They came here together,
to the Ivy Bush Hotel, in 1802,

260
00:14:05,480 --> 00:14:07,560
accompanied by her husband,

261
00:14:07,560 --> 00:14:11,640
who often provided cover
for their illicit affair.

262
00:14:11,640 --> 00:14:13,600
I've often thought it was lucky

263
00:14:13,600 --> 00:14:15,720
that we didn't have a tabloid press
in those days,

264
00:14:15,720 --> 00:14:19,440
otherwise, Nelson would have been
hounded out of public life

265
00:14:19,440 --> 00:14:21,200
and we would have had to find
someone else

266
00:14:21,200 --> 00:14:22,640
to fight the Battle of Trafalgar.

267
00:14:31,800 --> 00:14:33,720
A fresh day dawns

268
00:14:33,720 --> 00:14:36,800
and it's time for me to explore
the beautiful county

269
00:14:36,800 --> 00:14:38,600
to which Carmarthen gives its name.

270
00:14:40,680 --> 00:14:45,480
Bradshaw's says "Carmarthenshire
is mountainous and woody,

271
00:14:45,480 --> 00:14:48,080
"the air is mild and salubrious,

272
00:14:48,080 --> 00:14:52,880
"and the whole country is
remarkably healthy and fertile".

273
00:14:52,880 --> 00:14:57,160
After all the rain that it must have
taken to produce this vivid green,

274
00:14:57,160 --> 00:15:01,320
today, the colour is outstanding
in the summer sun.

275
00:15:05,040 --> 00:15:08,040
Carmarthenshire is known
as the Garden of Wales,

276
00:15:08,040 --> 00:15:12,120
and its rolling hills appear
to have changed little in centuries.

277
00:15:12,120 --> 00:15:14,960
But in the 1860s,
with the arrival of the railways,

278
00:15:14,960 --> 00:15:18,480
the Industrial Age burst upon
this peaceful landscape.

279
00:15:21,200 --> 00:15:22,480
In Victorian times,

280
00:15:22,480 --> 00:15:25,440
this service was known
as the lazy line,

281
00:15:25,440 --> 00:15:27,040
because the farmer with his sheep,

282
00:15:27,040 --> 00:15:28,600
the farmer's wife with her cheese,

283
00:15:28,600 --> 00:15:30,520
bound for the market in Carmarthen,

284
00:15:30,520 --> 00:15:33,840
could flag down the train
at any point,

285
00:15:33,840 --> 00:15:36,560
an arrangement that combined
convenience

286
00:15:36,560 --> 00:15:38,440
with total unpredictability.

287
00:15:43,120 --> 00:15:44,840
Could you take my Bradshaw's,
please?

288
00:15:46,000 --> 00:15:49,560
I'm hearing the history of the
Carmarthen to Aberystwyth railway

289
00:15:49,560 --> 00:15:51,480
from enthusiast Jeremy John.

290
00:15:52,720 --> 00:15:56,000
Jeremy, this lovely line,
what was it first built for?

291
00:15:56,000 --> 00:15:57,600
Well, initially the directors of

292
00:15:57,600 --> 00:16:00,000
the Carmarthen and Cardigan
Railway Company

293
00:16:00,000 --> 00:16:02,840
wanted to reach Cardigan
and not Aberystwyth.

294
00:16:02,840 --> 00:16:08,040
I think the idea was to use Cardigan
as a deep sea port

295
00:16:08,040 --> 00:16:10,120
for purposes of trade. And a lot...

296
00:16:10,120 --> 00:16:11,880
And in the middle of
the 19th century,

297
00:16:11,880 --> 00:16:14,080
a lot of the railway companies
were really fed up

298
00:16:14,080 --> 00:16:16,600
with the stranglehold
that Liverpool docks had.

299
00:16:16,600 --> 00:16:19,160
So that was the initial plan.

300
00:16:20,160 --> 00:16:23,480
In fact, the railway company
ran out of money

301
00:16:23,480 --> 00:16:25,800
before the tracks reached Cardigan.

302
00:16:25,800 --> 00:16:28,240
But even so, it changed life
in Carmarthenshire.

303
00:16:29,480 --> 00:16:32,680
I think the farmers made good use
of it, didn't they? Yes, I mean...

304
00:16:32,680 --> 00:16:34,680
Of course, the result of it all

305
00:16:34,680 --> 00:16:37,840
was the economy of
the rural areas expanding.

306
00:16:37,840 --> 00:16:40,800
I mean, it was a tremendous boost
for people

307
00:16:40,800 --> 00:16:42,960
in the middle of the 19th century,
you know.

308
00:16:42,960 --> 00:16:44,800
And a good example, really, is that

309
00:16:44,800 --> 00:16:46,440
you could milk your cows here

310
00:16:46,440 --> 00:16:49,520
and get the fresh milk to London
within hours.

311
00:16:49,520 --> 00:16:51,640
Because, I mean, I doubt if many cows
were kept

312
00:16:51,640 --> 00:16:53,120
in the middle of Central London

313
00:16:53,120 --> 00:16:54,640
in the middle of the 19th century.

314
00:16:55,760 --> 00:16:59,440
By 1867, tracks built
by different companies

315
00:16:59,440 --> 00:17:01,960
connected Carmarthen
with Aberystwyth,

316
00:17:01,960 --> 00:17:04,800
56 and a half miles away,
on the West coast.

317
00:17:05,960 --> 00:17:08,080
It wasn't exactly
a high-speed railway, was it?

318
00:17:08,080 --> 00:17:12,920
No, it took hours to get to
Aberystwyth, you know, with 24 stops

319
00:17:12,920 --> 00:17:15,160
and all these various halts,
you know.

320
00:17:15,160 --> 00:17:19,400
So, in some ways, maybe it didn't
make an awful lot of money.

321
00:17:19,400 --> 00:17:22,120
And especially later on,
in the 1960s,

322
00:17:22,120 --> 00:17:24,880
when, of course, you had the minicar.
I mean, if people took about

323
00:17:24,880 --> 00:17:26,760
three and a half hours
to get to Aberystwyth

324
00:17:26,760 --> 00:17:28,440
and could drive there in an hour,

325
00:17:28,440 --> 00:17:31,960
then really they would elect
to go by car.

326
00:17:33,080 --> 00:17:37,920
By 1973, both passenger
and freight services had ceased

327
00:17:37,920 --> 00:17:40,960
on the Carmarthen
to Aberystwyth railway.

328
00:17:40,960 --> 00:17:44,080
But five years later,
a short stretch reopened

329
00:17:44,080 --> 00:17:46,120
as the Gwili Heritage Line,

330
00:17:46,120 --> 00:17:48,480
sustained by passionate volunteers.

331
00:17:50,880 --> 00:17:53,240
That was a great run, thank you.

332
00:17:53,240 --> 00:17:55,400
You're welcome.
Oh, what are you doing there?

333
00:17:55,400 --> 00:17:56,760
Just cooking up some dinner.

334
00:17:56,760 --> 00:17:58,840
We've got some bacon
and some sausages,

335
00:17:58,840 --> 00:18:00,760
some egg and a nice lamb chop.

336
00:18:00,760 --> 00:18:03,640
Well, you do know how to treat
yourselves don't you? We do.

337
00:18:03,640 --> 00:18:05,920
That's excellent.
Railwayman's lunch.

338
00:18:05,920 --> 00:18:09,040
There are big plans afoot
for the railway's future.

339
00:18:09,040 --> 00:18:10,800
Hello! Hello.

340
00:18:10,800 --> 00:18:12,960
To hear more,
I've donned my boiler suit

341
00:18:12,960 --> 00:18:15,320
to switch from steam to diesel.

342
00:18:16,600 --> 00:18:19,920
HORN BLARES

343
00:18:19,920 --> 00:18:22,600
It is the most beautiful
summer's day

344
00:18:22,600 --> 00:18:24,760
and this lovely restored track

345
00:18:24,760 --> 00:18:28,640
threads its way along the
scenic valley of the Gwili River,

346
00:18:28,640 --> 00:18:30,880
and I'm on my own private train.

347
00:18:30,880 --> 00:18:31,920
What bliss!

348
00:18:37,640 --> 00:18:40,040
Volunteers are extending the railway

349
00:18:40,040 --> 00:18:42,680
to provide an extra
one-and-three-quarter miles of track

350
00:18:42,680 --> 00:18:43,720
and a new station.

351
00:18:45,600 --> 00:18:46,680
Hi!

352
00:18:49,000 --> 00:18:51,920
I've travelled to the end
of the line to pitch in.

353
00:18:51,920 --> 00:18:55,160
Checking the so-called keys
that hold the track in place

354
00:18:55,160 --> 00:18:57,560
with volunteer Matt Bowen.

355
00:18:57,560 --> 00:19:00,360
Now perhaps you'd like to have a go.

356
00:19:00,360 --> 00:19:02,840
Where are there any to do?
There's quite a few over here.

357
00:19:02,840 --> 00:19:04,880
Oh, yeah, all of these are out.

358
00:19:04,880 --> 00:19:06,400
That's right, just like that.

359
00:19:06,400 --> 00:19:07,920
And then give it a good whack.

360
00:19:10,600 --> 00:19:11,640
That's it.

361
00:19:12,960 --> 00:19:14,320
There we are, that should do.

362
00:19:14,320 --> 00:19:16,280
How long have you been
with the railway, Matt?

363
00:19:16,280 --> 00:19:19,440
Well, I first started when I was 11,
and I'm now 36.

364
00:19:19,440 --> 00:19:20,520
That's amazing. Yes.

365
00:19:20,520 --> 00:19:22,920
And, today, you're getting kids
coming in at that age in?

366
00:19:22,920 --> 00:19:25,040
Yes, we are. We've got
a new generation coming in,

367
00:19:25,040 --> 00:19:26,360
which is great for the future.

368
00:19:26,360 --> 00:19:29,480
But, hopefully, you know,
we'll have people of all ages here

369
00:19:29,480 --> 00:19:31,120
and they all find enjoyment.

370
00:19:31,120 --> 00:19:34,000
Are you moved by the history of this
railway line? Very much so, yes.

371
00:19:34,000 --> 00:19:36,520
There's a lot of social history
as well as railway history.

372
00:19:36,520 --> 00:19:38,440
It's a glimpse of the past.

373
00:19:38,440 --> 00:19:41,720
And just wonderful to bring it back.
Absolutely, absolutely.

374
00:19:44,680 --> 00:19:48,120
I'm now rejoining the 21st-century
railway network

375
00:19:48,120 --> 00:19:50,480
to reach my final stop
on today's journey.

376
00:19:51,520 --> 00:19:54,600
And this stretch of
the West Wales line is a real treat.

377
00:20:00,400 --> 00:20:03,480
Snaking along the valley
of the River Towy,

378
00:20:03,480 --> 00:20:06,880
this railway showcases
the best of South Wales.

379
00:20:08,200 --> 00:20:10,600
I had no idea it was going to be
such a beautiful ride.

380
00:20:10,600 --> 00:20:12,520
Lovely journey. A lovely journey,
isn't it?

381
00:20:12,520 --> 00:20:15,360
You've got the best side there.
Oh, yeah? The right ride, OK, great.

382
00:20:19,880 --> 00:20:21,080
You going far?

383
00:20:21,080 --> 00:20:22,680
Yeah, I'm going to Cardiff.

384
00:20:22,680 --> 00:20:25,240
Do you know this line quite well?
Yeah, I've travelled it...

385
00:20:25,240 --> 00:20:28,080
Well, up to year ago, I used to
come on this line every week,

386
00:20:28,080 --> 00:20:29,480
down to Cardiff and back.

387
00:20:29,480 --> 00:20:31,000
I live in Carmarthen.

388
00:20:31,000 --> 00:20:34,360
Nice line? It's a brilliant line,
it's beautiful line, actually,

389
00:20:34,360 --> 00:20:37,120
from Carmarthen down to Llanelli.

390
00:20:37,120 --> 00:20:39,720
So, you get some fantastic views
of castles.

391
00:20:39,720 --> 00:20:41,600
And, of course,
if you're into wildlife,

392
00:20:41,600 --> 00:20:44,320
then there's fantastic bird variety.

393
00:20:44,320 --> 00:20:46,280
Well, thank you, enjoy your journey.

394
00:20:46,280 --> 00:20:47,720
I know I'm going to enjoy mine more

395
00:20:47,720 --> 00:20:49,880
because you've given me
some pointers, thank you.

396
00:20:51,440 --> 00:20:53,600
The view is spectacular,

397
00:20:53,600 --> 00:20:56,520
but I'm about to swap the lush green
of the countryside

398
00:20:56,520 --> 00:20:59,040
for the urban landscape of Swansea,

399
00:20:59,040 --> 00:21:00,720
which was, in Bradshaw's day,

400
00:21:00,720 --> 00:21:03,160
the "important seat of
the copper trade".

401
00:21:03,160 --> 00:21:05,160
Ore shipped from Cornwall
and elsewhere

402
00:21:05,160 --> 00:21:08,320
was smelted using
the abundant local coal.

403
00:21:08,320 --> 00:21:11,000
And the finished product
was in hot demand,

404
00:21:11,000 --> 00:21:13,960
used by 19th-century engineers
in everything

405
00:21:13,960 --> 00:21:17,000
from locomotive fireboxes
to electrical wires.

406
00:21:18,560 --> 00:21:21,720
In that era of
dizzying technological change,

407
00:21:21,720 --> 00:21:25,600
the railways were just one of the
developments revolutionising life.

408
00:21:26,760 --> 00:21:30,080
From Bradshaw's snapshot of Swansea,

409
00:21:30,080 --> 00:21:32,400
I want to focus on two things -

410
00:21:32,400 --> 00:21:34,120
the Royal Institution
of South Wales,

411
00:21:34,120 --> 00:21:36,800
which was established in 1835,

412
00:21:36,800 --> 00:21:38,520
and Penllergaer,

413
00:21:38,520 --> 00:21:42,640
which is described as "the seat
of John Llewelyn esquire",

414
00:21:42,640 --> 00:21:45,520
and I'm sure that I'll develop
a connection between the two.

415
00:21:47,760 --> 00:21:50,680
The technology in my sights
is photography,

416
00:21:50,680 --> 00:21:54,160
which reached new heights
in Victorian Swansea.

417
00:21:54,160 --> 00:21:56,920
To find out more, I'm heading for
the Swansea Museum,

418
00:21:56,920 --> 00:22:00,240
set up by members of
the Royal Institution of South Wales

419
00:22:00,240 --> 00:22:02,400
in 1841.

420
00:22:02,400 --> 00:22:06,120
Here, local industrialists,
businessmen and amateur scientists

421
00:22:06,120 --> 00:22:08,560
came together to discuss
the latest breakthroughs

422
00:22:08,560 --> 00:22:11,800
in science, technology and the arts.

423
00:22:11,800 --> 00:22:16,440
I'm meeting Michael Pritchard from
the Royal Photographic Society.

424
00:22:16,440 --> 00:22:18,600
Michael, hello.
Hello, Michael, nice to meet you.

425
00:22:18,600 --> 00:22:20,720
Very good to see you. Take a seat.

426
00:22:20,720 --> 00:22:24,200
Now, I believe I'm in the former
Royal Institution of South Wales,

427
00:22:24,200 --> 00:22:26,760
and I've come in pursuit of
John Llewelyn.

428
00:22:26,760 --> 00:22:28,440
Can you help me?

429
00:22:28,440 --> 00:22:29,680
Yes, indeed.

430
00:22:29,680 --> 00:22:32,040
John Llewelyn - in fact,
John Dillwyn Llewelyn

431
00:22:32,040 --> 00:22:33,480
to give him his full name -

432
00:22:33,480 --> 00:22:36,080
was one of the pioneers
of British photography.

433
00:22:36,080 --> 00:22:38,440
He got very involved
in the process

434
00:22:38,440 --> 00:22:40,080
as soon as photography was announced.

435
00:22:40,080 --> 00:22:42,880
Was there a connection with the
Royal Institution of South Wales?

436
00:22:42,880 --> 00:22:45,480
Yeah, Llewelyn's father
and Llewelyn himself

437
00:22:45,480 --> 00:22:47,440
were involved in setting up
the institution.

438
00:22:48,680 --> 00:22:50,400
The son of a Swansea landowner,

439
00:22:50,400 --> 00:22:54,040
John Dillwyn Llewelyn was
a Victorian renaissance man

440
00:22:54,040 --> 00:22:59,040
with interests including astronomy,
horticulture and local politics.

441
00:22:59,040 --> 00:23:01,320
His passion for photography
was sparked

442
00:23:01,320 --> 00:23:05,160
after he married Emma Talbot
in 1833.

443
00:23:05,160 --> 00:23:08,000
Her cousin,
William Henry Fox Talbot,

444
00:23:08,000 --> 00:23:10,640
created the world's first
photographic negative.

445
00:23:11,720 --> 00:23:15,720
The Dillwyn Llewelyns created some
of the first family albums,

446
00:23:15,720 --> 00:23:19,320
including this remarkable one
shot from 1853.

447
00:23:20,600 --> 00:23:21,920
What we have here...

448
00:23:23,160 --> 00:23:26,320
..is Llewelyn's family
on Guy Fawkes Night

449
00:23:26,320 --> 00:23:28,800
at his estate at Penllergaer.

450
00:23:28,800 --> 00:23:31,880
How superb! That is superb!

451
00:23:31,880 --> 00:23:34,840
Now, I mean, was it quite
revolutionary

452
00:23:34,840 --> 00:23:37,800
to do these, kind of, family shots?

453
00:23:37,800 --> 00:23:39,160
It was unusual, certainly.

454
00:23:39,160 --> 00:23:41,760
But because there were so many
photographers in the family,

455
00:23:41,760 --> 00:23:43,800
that suspect he had
rather more leeway

456
00:23:43,800 --> 00:23:45,480
in getting people to stand still.

457
00:23:45,480 --> 00:23:47,400
But also,
Llewelyn was important because

458
00:23:47,400 --> 00:23:49,920
he developed new ways
of photographing,

459
00:23:49,920 --> 00:23:51,320
he developed a new process

460
00:23:51,320 --> 00:23:55,000
that would allow him to photograph
at faster shutter speeds.

461
00:23:55,000 --> 00:23:57,400
So he was able to capture
some of these subjects

462
00:23:57,400 --> 00:23:59,760
that some of his contemporaries
were not able to do.

463
00:23:59,760 --> 00:24:01,760
It really is amazing.

464
00:24:01,760 --> 00:24:05,000
And one of the things that is
so good is the dynamism.

465
00:24:05,000 --> 00:24:08,240
I mean, this figure here, who is
actually John Llewelyn himself,

466
00:24:08,240 --> 00:24:11,280
appears to be pitchforking
the bonfire.

467
00:24:11,280 --> 00:24:13,360
But he will have been posed
to do that, will he?

468
00:24:13,360 --> 00:24:15,840
Yes, he would. I mean,
I think we have to accept that

469
00:24:15,840 --> 00:24:18,920
photography wasn't quite
as advanced as it is today,

470
00:24:18,920 --> 00:24:21,560
and so there's an element of posing.
But you're right,

471
00:24:21,560 --> 00:24:23,400
it has that sense of movement,

472
00:24:23,400 --> 00:24:25,080
the way the smoke... You know,

473
00:24:25,080 --> 00:24:26,800
it gives it a very ethereal feel

474
00:24:26,800 --> 00:24:29,160
and a sense of movement and wind.

475
00:24:29,160 --> 00:24:31,800
I think, you know, it's
a fantastic example of what was...

476
00:24:31,800 --> 00:24:34,040
what photography was capable
of at that time.

477
00:24:35,600 --> 00:24:38,400
Dillwyn Llewelyn
soon developed a following,

478
00:24:38,400 --> 00:24:41,040
with works bought by
Queen Victoria herself.

479
00:24:41,040 --> 00:24:43,960
Some of his most beautiful images
were inspired by

480
00:24:43,960 --> 00:24:47,240
his family estate at Penllergaer.

481
00:24:47,240 --> 00:24:50,560
And this is the upper waterfall
on the estate.

482
00:24:50,560 --> 00:24:54,760
The water appears to be moving,
it's absolutely full of light.

483
00:24:54,760 --> 00:24:57,600
The tree in the foreground
is perfectly in focus.

484
00:24:57,600 --> 00:24:59,840
All the woods in the background
have been thrown out.

485
00:24:59,840 --> 00:25:02,120
That is a fantastic piece of work.

486
00:25:02,120 --> 00:25:04,680
His artistic talent leaps
from the page.

487
00:25:04,680 --> 00:25:07,240
Yeah, it does,
and this is where I think

488
00:25:07,240 --> 00:25:09,240
he really does add something
to it, that...

489
00:25:09,240 --> 00:25:10,800
You know, people like Talbot...

490
00:25:10,800 --> 00:25:13,400
Although he nominally invented
photography,

491
00:25:13,400 --> 00:25:15,360
Talbot approached it as a scientist.

492
00:25:15,360 --> 00:25:17,160
Llewelyn approached it as an artist.

493
00:25:17,160 --> 00:25:19,640
And I think that's the
real difference between the two.

494
00:25:21,560 --> 00:25:22,880
Just outside Swansea,

495
00:25:22,880 --> 00:25:27,640
the waterfall immortalised by
Dillwyn Llewelyn is still there.

496
00:25:27,640 --> 00:25:29,920
And the techniques he used
to capture it

497
00:25:29,920 --> 00:25:33,640
are practised today by photographer,
Tony Richards.

498
00:25:33,640 --> 00:25:35,360
Tony, hello. Hello there, Michael.

499
00:25:37,040 --> 00:25:39,160
Lovely piece of equipment, that.

500
00:25:39,160 --> 00:25:41,480
Around the vintage of
John Dillwyn Llywelyn?

501
00:25:41,480 --> 00:25:44,840
Yes, yes, the camera is just after,
lens is exact.

502
00:25:44,840 --> 00:25:47,920
I'd like to have a Victorian
portrait of myself taken here.

503
00:25:47,920 --> 00:25:50,880
What would be your pointers
for a Victorian portrait?

504
00:25:50,880 --> 00:25:53,440
For a Victorian portrait,
stand very still,

505
00:25:53,440 --> 00:25:54,880
they're long exposures.

506
00:25:55,920 --> 00:25:56,960
Try not to smile.

507
00:25:56,960 --> 00:26:00,520
The tradition for portraiture
was unsmiling, a serious face.

508
00:26:00,520 --> 00:26:03,840
If you're smiling, you seemed
a bit of a buffoon.

509
00:26:03,840 --> 00:26:06,000
I wish someone had told me
that long ago.

510
00:26:09,040 --> 00:26:12,720
Tony's using the so-called
wet plate collodion process,

511
00:26:12,720 --> 00:26:14,960
developed in the 1850s.

512
00:26:14,960 --> 00:26:17,440
A sheet of chemically-treated glass

513
00:26:17,440 --> 00:26:20,200
is bathed in light-sensitive
silver nitrate

514
00:26:20,200 --> 00:26:21,840
before being placed in the camera.

515
00:26:23,600 --> 00:26:25,320
20 seconds...

516
00:26:25,320 --> 00:26:26,400
From now.

517
00:26:26,400 --> 00:26:28,520
When the plate is exposed to light,

518
00:26:28,520 --> 00:26:31,400
the chemical reaction creates
a negative image.

519
00:26:31,400 --> 00:26:32,760
And relax.

520
00:26:32,760 --> 00:26:34,120
Well done.

521
00:26:34,120 --> 00:26:36,920
To fix the image,
more chemicals are added,

522
00:26:36,920 --> 00:26:39,240
then the result can be revealed.

523
00:26:39,240 --> 00:26:41,760
That was quick. You've just done
that in the back of the van?

524
00:26:41,760 --> 00:26:43,400
Yes, a little dark room
in the back.

525
00:26:43,400 --> 00:26:46,120
I can't see very much at the moment.
What's going to happen next?

526
00:26:46,120 --> 00:26:48,480
Now we're going to pour
on some photographic fixer,

527
00:26:48,480 --> 00:26:51,280
which will wash away
the un-activated silver

528
00:26:51,280 --> 00:26:52,880
and we're left with a positive image.

529
00:26:55,920 --> 00:26:57,760
There I am appearing!

530
00:26:57,760 --> 00:27:00,160
And, if I say it myself,
looking rather good.

531
00:27:00,160 --> 00:27:02,040
Well done, Tony.
Thank you very much.

532
00:27:03,920 --> 00:27:05,960
And there you go.

533
00:27:05,960 --> 00:27:07,040
That is fantastic.

534
00:27:08,760 --> 00:27:11,800
From photography to railways
to shipbuilding,

535
00:27:11,800 --> 00:27:13,280
on this part of my journey,

536
00:27:13,280 --> 00:27:17,040
I've searched for reminders
of Victorian Wales.

537
00:27:17,040 --> 00:27:20,000
But I've also been struck
by a forgotten darker side

538
00:27:20,000 --> 00:27:21,680
of 19th-century history.

539
00:27:23,680 --> 00:27:26,200
I am moved by the Rebecca rioters,

540
00:27:26,200 --> 00:27:31,680
those desperate farmers driven
to violence by their poverty.

541
00:27:31,680 --> 00:27:34,480
Their grievances were lifted
during Bradshaw's time

542
00:27:34,480 --> 00:27:39,280
as railways opened new markets
for Welsh farm produce.

543
00:27:39,280 --> 00:27:40,920
They've been partly forgotten

544
00:27:40,920 --> 00:27:44,360
because they predate
the development of photography,

545
00:27:44,360 --> 00:27:48,960
which has bequeathed to us
those unmistakeable formal images

546
00:27:48,960 --> 00:27:51,520
which define the Victorian age.

547
00:27:57,240 --> 00:27:58,680
On the next leg of my journey,

548
00:27:58,680 --> 00:28:02,280
I discover the Welsh talent
for tongue twisters.

549
00:28:02,280 --> 00:28:05,960
There's Llandeilo to Llandovery,
Llandovery to Llanwrtyd.

550
00:28:05,960 --> 00:28:08,440
You never get confused
with all your Llans, do you?

551
00:28:08,440 --> 00:28:09,480
Well, I don't.

552
00:28:11,840 --> 00:28:14,960
Step into my dancing shoes
for a quadrille.

553
00:28:18,560 --> 00:28:21,840
And put my school boy scrumping days
to good use.

554
00:28:21,840 --> 00:28:25,080
That is delicious.
Nice and fruity isn't it? Oh!

555
00:28:25,080 --> 00:28:26,880
Be even better when it's alcoholic.

556
00:28:26,880 --> 00:28:28,720
Definitely. Part of your five a day,
that.