1 00:00:04,480 --> 00:00:08,720 For Victorian Britons, George Bradshaw was a household name. 2 00:00:09,720 --> 00:00:11,320 'At a time when railways were new, 3 00:00:11,320 --> 00:00:15,720 'Bradshaw's guidebook inspired them to take to the tracks.' 4 00:00:15,720 --> 00:00:20,360 I'm using a Bradshaw's guide to understand how trains transformed 5 00:00:20,360 --> 00:00:22,440 Britain - its landscape, 6 00:00:22,440 --> 00:00:26,640 its industry, society and leisure time. 7 00:00:26,640 --> 00:00:31,120 As I crisscross the country 150 years later, it helps me 8 00:00:31,120 --> 00:00:33,440 to discover the Britain of today. 9 00:00:54,080 --> 00:00:57,680 I'm continuing a journey that began in the west of Wales 10 00:00:57,680 --> 00:01:00,400 and will end in the east of England. 11 00:01:00,400 --> 00:01:05,080 Victorian scientific advances drew on centuries of scholarship 12 00:01:05,080 --> 00:01:07,320 in British universities. 13 00:01:07,320 --> 00:01:11,400 Well educated gentleman, schooled in the Christian virtues, 14 00:01:11,400 --> 00:01:13,440 tended to be charitable. 15 00:01:13,440 --> 00:01:17,840 My journey today will take me from the cloisters of academia 16 00:01:17,840 --> 00:01:22,280 to houses for the poor, from varsity to philanthropy. 17 00:01:29,960 --> 00:01:34,840 I began in naval Pembroke, went underground in Swansea, 18 00:01:34,840 --> 00:01:38,480 tasted the fruits of Herefordshire and ventured through the rolling 19 00:01:38,480 --> 00:01:43,920 hills of the Cotswolds to discover a land transformed by railways. 20 00:01:43,920 --> 00:01:45,920 From here I'll head into Bedfordshire, 21 00:01:45,920 --> 00:01:50,520 before ending my journey in the scholarly city of Cambridge. 22 00:01:50,520 --> 00:01:55,280 Today's leg takes me straight to the heart of academia in Oxford, 23 00:01:55,280 --> 00:01:56,800 then east to Bicester 24 00:01:56,800 --> 00:02:01,280 and onto the charitable town of Bedford, before ending in Luton. 25 00:02:02,800 --> 00:02:06,680 'I discover a miniature edition from my favourite publisher...' 26 00:02:06,680 --> 00:02:10,320 And this is actually the first edition of Bradshaw's. 27 00:02:10,320 --> 00:02:11,560 Oh, that is exciting. 28 00:02:11,560 --> 00:02:13,880 Very, very ephemeral little publication, 29 00:02:13,880 --> 00:02:15,800 so it's incredibly rare. 30 00:02:15,800 --> 00:02:18,840 '..marvel at the ambition of a new railway...' 31 00:02:18,840 --> 00:02:22,800 You're going to raise this up, bring the rail across by this weekend? 32 00:02:22,800 --> 00:02:25,400 Yes. There's a man speaking with confidence. 33 00:02:25,400 --> 00:02:27,240 '..and learn the power of a hat.' 34 00:02:28,360 --> 00:02:30,400 It's amazing. In a moment, you've converted me 35 00:02:30,400 --> 00:02:33,480 from an investment banker into a rake! 36 00:02:41,920 --> 00:02:46,200 According to Bradshaw's, Oxford has an advantage over Cambridge 37 00:02:46,200 --> 00:02:48,840 "being placed among more attractive scenery 38 00:02:48,840 --> 00:02:53,560 "and combining a greater variety of splendid architecture." 39 00:02:53,560 --> 00:02:56,280 As a Cambridge graduate, I say bunkum, 40 00:02:56,280 --> 00:02:59,720 but my guidebook is on safer ground, saying that, 41 00:02:59,720 --> 00:03:03,760 "The Bodleian Library was founded in 1602 by Sir T Bodley 42 00:03:03,760 --> 00:03:07,400 "and contains nearly a quarter of one million of books, 43 00:03:07,400 --> 00:03:09,800 "old, new and rare," 44 00:03:09,800 --> 00:03:13,560 which speaks volumes for such an ancient institution. 45 00:03:19,800 --> 00:03:22,440 For a city whose university alumni include some of 46 00:03:22,440 --> 00:03:24,680 the world's most innovative thinkers, 47 00:03:24,680 --> 00:03:29,320 it's surprising to discover that the arrival of the railway in 1844 48 00:03:29,320 --> 00:03:31,800 met with such great opposition. 49 00:03:31,800 --> 00:03:35,080 College wardens feared that the bright lights of London would 50 00:03:35,080 --> 00:03:37,720 lure its students away from their studies. 51 00:03:39,720 --> 00:03:42,720 Yet, for Victorian students intrigued by science 52 00:03:42,720 --> 00:03:45,320 and the classification of the natural world, 53 00:03:45,320 --> 00:03:49,240 Britain's capital could not compete with the University's main 54 00:03:49,240 --> 00:03:51,360 research library, The Bodleian. 55 00:03:53,480 --> 00:03:56,720 Today, it holds over 11 million items 56 00:03:56,720 --> 00:03:59,760 and is second in size only to the British Library. 57 00:04:00,800 --> 00:04:04,640 It's here that Bodley's librarian Richard Ovenden is to give me 58 00:04:04,640 --> 00:04:07,280 privileged access to its rare collection. 59 00:04:08,480 --> 00:04:11,040 Welcome. Welcome to Duke Humphrey's Library. 60 00:04:11,040 --> 00:04:13,000 What wonderful surroundings I find you in, 61 00:04:13,000 --> 00:04:16,000 it's like a sort of temple of scholarship, isn't it? 62 00:04:16,000 --> 00:04:19,760 Absolutely, and it has been for 400 years. Yes, what a thought. 63 00:04:19,760 --> 00:04:24,960 My Bradshaw's says that you have books old, rare and new. 64 00:04:24,960 --> 00:04:28,280 I certainly don't doubt that you have old. Yeah. 65 00:04:28,280 --> 00:04:29,800 Anything you want to tell me about? 66 00:04:29,800 --> 00:04:33,200 Well, I thought we might start with something rare. 67 00:04:33,200 --> 00:04:37,800 One of Oxford's greatest sons was the poet Percy Shelley. 68 00:04:37,800 --> 00:04:42,320 And, of course, he married another great writer - Mary Shelley. 69 00:04:42,320 --> 00:04:45,960 And this is the manuscript, the earliest surviving 70 00:04:45,960 --> 00:04:51,400 drafts of her great literary masterpiece, Frankenstein. 71 00:04:51,400 --> 00:04:56,320 Good heavens. So this was written in the summer of 1816 72 00:04:56,320 --> 00:05:01,000 when she and Percy were staying in the villa of Lord Byron 73 00:05:01,000 --> 00:05:03,160 on the banks of Lake Geneva. 74 00:05:03,160 --> 00:05:06,600 And during a famous thunderstorm, they had a ghost story competition. 75 00:05:06,600 --> 00:05:07,920 MICHAEL LAUGHS 76 00:05:07,920 --> 00:05:10,320 And Mary Shelley invented the creature 77 00:05:10,320 --> 00:05:12,840 that we know as Frankenstein. 78 00:05:12,840 --> 00:05:16,360 It has the classic horror story beginning, doesn't it? 79 00:05:16,360 --> 00:05:21,040 "It was on a dreary night of November that I beheld my man 80 00:05:21,040 --> 00:05:25,960 "completed with an anxiety that almost amounted to agony." 81 00:05:25,960 --> 00:05:29,640 And she continues, "By the glimmer of the half-extinguished light, 82 00:05:29,640 --> 00:05:33,240 "I saw the dull, yellow eye of the creature open. 83 00:05:33,240 --> 00:05:38,400 "It breathed hard and a convulsive motion agitated its limbs." 84 00:05:38,400 --> 00:05:41,680 Frankenstein's monster comes to life. 85 00:05:41,680 --> 00:05:46,920 Yeah, and sparking almost two centuries of cultural life. 86 00:05:46,920 --> 00:05:50,880 I mean, Frankenstein generated words which we use all the time 87 00:05:50,880 --> 00:05:54,800 when we're discussing science or medical innovation, 88 00:05:54,800 --> 00:06:00,400 and it all began when Mary had this fantastic moment of genius. 89 00:06:00,400 --> 00:06:02,400 Mary Shelley's Frankenstein 90 00:06:02,400 --> 00:06:05,640 certainly captured the early Victorians' imagination. 91 00:06:06,960 --> 00:06:09,240 And by Bradshaw's day, the interplay of science 92 00:06:09,240 --> 00:06:13,320 and the supernatural had become a national preoccupation... 93 00:06:13,320 --> 00:06:15,880 alongside a new appetite for travel. 94 00:06:17,000 --> 00:06:20,840 I thought it might be interesting just to see the growth 95 00:06:20,840 --> 00:06:24,880 of the railway network in England at the time of Bradshaw. 96 00:06:24,880 --> 00:06:29,120 So here we have Picot's map of England and Wales 97 00:06:29,120 --> 00:06:32,960 with part of Scotland, published in 1840. 98 00:06:32,960 --> 00:06:36,680 There's much about this map that we all recognise. 99 00:06:36,680 --> 00:06:40,160 Here is what we now call the West Coast Main Line, 100 00:06:40,160 --> 00:06:43,200 and I can tell you that Cambridge has its railway... 101 00:06:44,400 --> 00:06:46,320 ..but I'm not sure that Oxford does. 102 00:06:46,320 --> 00:06:48,960 No. Well, those are fantastic examples. 103 00:06:48,960 --> 00:06:51,880 I thought I'd just pull one small thing which was 104 00:06:51,880 --> 00:06:56,840 printed for a gentleman's jacket pocket like this. 105 00:06:56,840 --> 00:06:59,960 This is actually the first edition of Bradshaw's. 106 00:06:59,960 --> 00:07:01,960 Ah, that is exciting. 107 00:07:01,960 --> 00:07:07,160 So, we can see the Northwest of England, we can see Lancashire 108 00:07:07,160 --> 00:07:09,760 and this fantastic little railway map. 109 00:07:09,760 --> 00:07:14,040 Very, very ephemeral little publication, so it's incredibly rare. 110 00:07:14,040 --> 00:07:17,440 Now, the one thing that Bradshaw's didn't tell me about... 111 00:07:17,440 --> 00:07:19,080 because you couldn't, was the future. 112 00:07:19,080 --> 00:07:20,320 What is the future? 113 00:07:20,320 --> 00:07:24,120 Well, the future is a mixture of the physical and the digital, 114 00:07:24,120 --> 00:07:26,600 and I think we should go and look at that now. 115 00:07:26,600 --> 00:07:28,560 Let us do that. Thank you so much. 116 00:07:30,320 --> 00:07:33,960 In 1946, a new Bodleian Library opened, 117 00:07:33,960 --> 00:07:36,760 designed by Sir Giles Gilbert Scott, 118 00:07:36,760 --> 00:07:39,840 the architect behind London's Battersea Power Station 119 00:07:39,840 --> 00:07:41,360 and the red telephone box. 120 00:07:42,960 --> 00:07:46,440 Work is now under way to expand and update the facility 121 00:07:46,440 --> 00:07:51,280 for 21st century needs, and Richard is taking me to see its progress. 122 00:07:53,120 --> 00:07:56,080 We spent a year just moving all of those millions of books 123 00:07:56,080 --> 00:07:59,520 and journals. And the last year we spent fitting out the interior. 124 00:07:59,520 --> 00:08:02,520 And we're just at the final few weeks of that, 125 00:08:02,520 --> 00:08:04,520 ready to open for the start of term. 126 00:08:04,520 --> 00:08:05,800 And what's going to be new? 127 00:08:05,800 --> 00:08:08,440 It's really going to be, you know, future-proofed 128 00:08:08,440 --> 00:08:10,840 for very high bandwidth 129 00:08:10,840 --> 00:08:14,360 to enable the highest levels of digital scholarship. 130 00:08:14,360 --> 00:08:18,160 The new exhibition gallery is going to be open freely to the public. 131 00:08:18,160 --> 00:08:22,280 You name it, it's going to be open to the world. 132 00:08:22,280 --> 00:08:23,880 Anything more that I should see? 133 00:08:23,880 --> 00:08:25,520 I think we should go up on the roof. 134 00:08:28,320 --> 00:08:31,760 My word, Richard, that is a glorious sight. 135 00:08:31,760 --> 00:08:33,840 Well, it's a pretty amazing vista. 136 00:08:33,840 --> 00:08:39,680 You can see the University church from the 12th, 13th centuries. 137 00:08:39,680 --> 00:08:44,320 The Radcliffe Camera, James Gibbs' fantastic building - 1749. 138 00:08:44,320 --> 00:08:49,000 The unknown architect of the old Bodleian from the early 17th century. 139 00:08:49,000 --> 00:08:50,920 And of course Wren's Sheldonian Theatre, 140 00:08:50,920 --> 00:08:54,200 his first commission as an architect, finished in 1667. 141 00:08:56,000 --> 00:08:59,400 This view will not have changed much since Bradshaw's day. 142 00:08:59,400 --> 00:09:02,000 And I think if Bradshaw's were written today, 143 00:09:02,000 --> 00:09:05,160 this balcony would be named as the vantage point. 144 00:09:15,120 --> 00:09:19,240 The next leg of my journey leads me to Bicester, the hub of two 145 00:09:19,240 --> 00:09:23,040 exciting rail projects, one of which will establish the first 146 00:09:23,040 --> 00:09:27,760 new link between London and a major city in over 100 years. 147 00:09:29,800 --> 00:09:32,160 With the line from Oxford to Bicester Town 148 00:09:32,160 --> 00:09:33,720 currently out of service, 149 00:09:33,720 --> 00:09:36,320 I've made my way here under my own steam. 150 00:09:38,760 --> 00:09:41,000 When my Bradshaw's guide was published 151 00:09:41,000 --> 00:09:44,400 they had just opened that vital link of track 152 00:09:44,400 --> 00:09:49,360 that completed the varsity line connecting Oxford and Cambridge. 153 00:09:49,360 --> 00:09:52,680 By the time I was at university, the quickest way between the two 154 00:09:52,680 --> 00:09:55,400 cities was via London. 155 00:09:55,400 --> 00:09:59,440 But where I'm standing now is new track that will enable you 156 00:09:59,440 --> 00:10:03,280 to travel from Oxford to London Marylebone. 157 00:10:03,280 --> 00:10:06,000 And it opens up the hope that, one day, 158 00:10:06,000 --> 00:10:08,640 the boffins will again be able to travel 159 00:10:08,640 --> 00:10:10,840 from university to university. 160 00:10:13,040 --> 00:10:16,040 This ambitious project comes at the time of the greatest 161 00:10:16,040 --> 00:10:19,680 investment in Britain's rail network since the Victorian era. 162 00:10:21,160 --> 00:10:27,160 My first port of call is Bicester Town station, opened in 1850. 163 00:10:27,160 --> 00:10:32,400 It enjoyed a connection with the two old university cities until 1967, 164 00:10:32,400 --> 00:10:35,920 when the Oxford-to-Bletchley and Bedford-to-Cambridge services 165 00:10:35,920 --> 00:10:36,960 were withdrawn. 166 00:10:38,160 --> 00:10:42,200 Today, Chiltern Railways is resurrecting long lost rail links 167 00:10:42,200 --> 00:10:43,480 and upgrading the track. 168 00:10:45,400 --> 00:10:48,240 I'm meeting Graham Cross from the railway company. 169 00:10:50,120 --> 00:10:53,440 Graham, standing here amongst the weeds at Bicester Town Station, 170 00:10:53,440 --> 00:10:55,200 which is presently closed at the moment, 171 00:10:55,200 --> 00:10:57,120 may seem to be a strange place to ask about it, 172 00:10:57,120 --> 00:10:59,000 but what is the scale of this project? 173 00:10:59,000 --> 00:11:01,760 So, this is a project that cost Chiltern Railways 174 00:11:01,760 --> 00:11:04,000 about £130 million. 175 00:11:04,000 --> 00:11:05,960 We're investing in new infrastructure 176 00:11:05,960 --> 00:11:09,960 and new stations to greatly improve the train services in this area. 177 00:11:09,960 --> 00:11:13,680 And here at Bicester Town, what is it you've been doing? 178 00:11:13,680 --> 00:11:15,960 So, here at Bicester Town, what we're doing is 179 00:11:15,960 --> 00:11:17,720 constructing a brand-new station. 180 00:11:17,720 --> 00:11:20,280 It's being upgraded from a single track to dual track 181 00:11:20,280 --> 00:11:24,200 and the speeds are increasing from 40mph to 100mph 182 00:11:24,200 --> 00:11:25,840 with modern signalling. 183 00:11:25,840 --> 00:11:28,040 An extraordinary number of changes. 184 00:11:29,080 --> 00:11:31,520 There are other projects around it as well, aren't there? 185 00:11:31,520 --> 00:11:36,240 That's right. From this station, around about 2018/19, 186 00:11:36,240 --> 00:11:38,720 you'll be able to take a train through to Milton Keynes 187 00:11:38,720 --> 00:11:42,080 when the second stage of the East West project is complete. 188 00:11:42,080 --> 00:11:45,960 And that is part of a wider vision to continue then to extend that 189 00:11:45,960 --> 00:11:48,640 railway through Bedford and on to Cambridge, 190 00:11:48,640 --> 00:11:52,160 so reinstating the Oxford to Cambridge railway line. 191 00:11:52,160 --> 00:11:54,560 That would be a fantastic achievement, wouldn't it? 192 00:11:54,560 --> 00:11:55,640 It would be marvellous. 193 00:11:55,640 --> 00:11:58,080 But the plans don't stop there. 194 00:11:58,080 --> 00:12:01,160 A new stretch of track, three quarters of a mile long, 195 00:12:01,160 --> 00:12:02,680 is being laid at Bicester 196 00:12:02,680 --> 00:12:06,760 to connect the existing route between Oxford and Bicester Town 197 00:12:06,760 --> 00:12:10,760 with the London Marylebone to Birmingham Moor Street line. 198 00:12:10,760 --> 00:12:14,760 One of the things really that we're seeking to do here is to connect 199 00:12:14,760 --> 00:12:17,800 the parts of southern England which aren't well connected 200 00:12:17,800 --> 00:12:19,680 by rail at the moment. 201 00:12:19,680 --> 00:12:22,600 Is that because there's been a change in the sort of journeys 202 00:12:22,600 --> 00:12:23,880 that people want to make? 203 00:12:23,880 --> 00:12:26,760 I think so, yeah. 20 years ago, people were just wanting to travel 204 00:12:26,760 --> 00:12:30,240 to London, but as the economy has broadened and places like 205 00:12:30,240 --> 00:12:33,480 Oxford and Bicester have grown in importance, there's ever more 206 00:12:33,480 --> 00:12:37,320 demand now to travel between those places without going through London, 207 00:12:37,320 --> 00:12:39,640 and that really is what this project does. 208 00:12:39,640 --> 00:12:42,480 Work on the new connection to the main line is under way 209 00:12:42,480 --> 00:12:45,400 just a mile from Bicester Town station. 210 00:12:45,400 --> 00:12:48,280 And there I'm meeting senior construction manager 211 00:12:48,280 --> 00:12:49,440 Merrick Murphy. 212 00:12:51,680 --> 00:12:53,760 So, Merrick, I feel as though you've brought me 213 00:12:53,760 --> 00:12:56,160 to the pivotal part of the project. 214 00:12:56,160 --> 00:12:58,840 Well, what we're actually doing is creating 215 00:12:58,840 --> 00:13:02,520 a tie-in point whereby you will be able to come from Marylebone 216 00:13:02,520 --> 00:13:05,400 or London and then turn out to Oxford. 217 00:13:06,320 --> 00:13:09,160 The line will be operational in summer 2015. 218 00:13:10,560 --> 00:13:14,320 So, we're putting in new points here and then we connect down to 219 00:13:14,320 --> 00:13:17,720 a line that's running absolutely at right angles to us at this point. 220 00:13:17,720 --> 00:13:22,600 Yes, indeed. What stage then are you at right now? 221 00:13:22,600 --> 00:13:25,280 We are in the earthworks phase, whereby we're matching 222 00:13:25,280 --> 00:13:29,080 the embankment sizes so that the rail can go down directly on top. 223 00:13:29,080 --> 00:13:32,360 So how much material do you think this is taking? 224 00:13:32,360 --> 00:13:35,640 Well, I would approximately think, at its current state, 225 00:13:35,640 --> 00:13:38,040 75,000 tonnes of material. 226 00:13:38,040 --> 00:13:39,080 My goodness. 227 00:13:39,080 --> 00:13:42,400 And when are you actually going to connect that rail to here? 228 00:13:42,400 --> 00:13:45,120 This weekend we're going to be bringing the earthworks through 229 00:13:45,120 --> 00:13:47,160 and getting the rail over this side. 230 00:13:47,160 --> 00:13:49,880 I find that unbelievable. You're going to raise this up, 231 00:13:49,880 --> 00:13:52,120 bring the rail across by this weekend? 232 00:13:52,120 --> 00:13:54,280 Yes. There's a man speaking with confidence. 233 00:13:54,280 --> 00:13:56,280 Oh, we'll manage that, no problem. 234 00:13:56,280 --> 00:14:00,920 'This time-critical task is supervised by senior site engineer 235 00:14:00,920 --> 00:14:02,640 'Barry Burrows. 236 00:14:02,640 --> 00:14:06,520 'And I'm pleased to be given a small part in its execution.' 237 00:14:06,520 --> 00:14:07,880 Thank you very much. 238 00:14:07,880 --> 00:14:11,920 So, this instrument tells you what exactly? 239 00:14:11,920 --> 00:14:15,040 This controls the level of the embankment. 240 00:14:15,040 --> 00:14:17,600 So it's a GPS. I hope it's more accurate than the one in my car, 241 00:14:17,600 --> 00:14:18,960 is it? Yes, a lot more accurate. 242 00:14:18,960 --> 00:14:20,600 And it is giving us the level up there 243 00:14:20,600 --> 00:14:22,800 of how much materials to go on at this current point. 244 00:14:22,800 --> 00:14:26,440 So, if I'm reading this correctly, at this point you need 245 00:14:26,440 --> 00:14:29,880 456 mil to be added here. 246 00:14:29,880 --> 00:14:33,400 Yes. So, what tonnage do you still have to put on, do you think? 247 00:14:33,400 --> 00:14:35,200 About 7,000-10,000. 248 00:14:35,200 --> 00:14:38,640 7,000-10,000. Which is only about a tenth of what you've done. 249 00:14:38,640 --> 00:14:40,400 Yeah, we've done about 75,000 so... 250 00:14:40,400 --> 00:14:42,640 So nearly there. Yeah. Congratulations. 251 00:14:42,640 --> 00:14:44,760 I think I can safely leave it to you. Thank you. 252 00:14:44,760 --> 00:14:46,840 Thank you, Barry. Cheers. Bye. Bye. 253 00:14:48,120 --> 00:14:51,720 I'm impressed by the vision behind the Oxford to London mainline 254 00:14:51,720 --> 00:14:55,560 project and I'm sure that if George Bradshaw were here today, 255 00:14:55,560 --> 00:14:57,560 it would get his seal of approval too. 256 00:15:16,920 --> 00:15:20,800 A new day, and I'm resuming my journey at Bletchley station, 257 00:15:20,800 --> 00:15:22,000 heading northeast. 258 00:15:29,560 --> 00:15:32,160 My first stop today will be Bedford. 259 00:15:32,160 --> 00:15:36,400 Bradshaw's tells me that a Lord Mayor of London - William Harpur - 260 00:15:36,400 --> 00:15:37,960 was born here. 261 00:15:37,960 --> 00:15:44,320 "The founder of an extensive charity now possessing a revenue of £2,000 262 00:15:44,320 --> 00:15:49,600 "per annum from land in Holborn and in his native town. 263 00:15:49,600 --> 00:15:53,640 "Being open to all, the charity has the effect of drawing many 264 00:15:53,640 --> 00:15:59,200 "families to the town where there are 70 or 80 almshouses." 265 00:15:59,200 --> 00:16:03,520 Alms has its origin in a Greek word meaning 'pity'. 266 00:16:03,520 --> 00:16:08,280 I prefer a word with a Latin derivation - benefaction, 267 00:16:08,280 --> 00:16:11,200 implying someone trying to do good. 268 00:16:14,520 --> 00:16:16,400 By the time of my guidebook, 269 00:16:16,400 --> 00:16:19,880 Bedford had acquired sanitation and gas lighting 270 00:16:19,880 --> 00:16:23,640 and had been transformed from a small, agricultural community 271 00:16:23,640 --> 00:16:25,160 into an engineering hub. 272 00:16:26,400 --> 00:16:29,520 But the focus of my visit today is philanthropy 273 00:16:29,520 --> 00:16:32,720 and the generosity of a man named William Harpur. 274 00:16:35,320 --> 00:16:40,120 I'm heading to St Paul's Church, where he was buried in 1574, 275 00:16:40,120 --> 00:16:43,160 to meet local historian James Collett-White. 276 00:16:46,240 --> 00:16:47,800 James, hello. Hello, Michael. 277 00:16:47,800 --> 00:16:49,880 Welcome to St Paul's. Thank you very much. 278 00:16:50,960 --> 00:16:52,280 Since I've been in Bedford, 279 00:16:52,280 --> 00:16:54,760 lots of references to William Harpur, street names... 280 00:16:54,760 --> 00:16:57,920 And to Dame Alice, his wife. I've seen a statue of him. 281 00:16:57,920 --> 00:17:00,600 And this window is dedicated to them as well? 282 00:17:00,600 --> 00:17:01,840 Yes, indeed. 283 00:17:01,840 --> 00:17:08,880 This window was made in 1976, erected by the Harpur Trust. 284 00:17:08,880 --> 00:17:11,200 Sir William Harpur was born in Bedford, 285 00:17:11,200 --> 00:17:13,880 he went to a school in Bedford 286 00:17:13,880 --> 00:17:17,720 and that was obviously a very important influence on his life. 287 00:17:17,720 --> 00:17:20,960 Harpur went on to work as a master of the Merchant Taylors' Company 288 00:17:20,960 --> 00:17:22,280 in London. 289 00:17:22,280 --> 00:17:26,240 An investment in land in the capital made him rich and provided him 290 00:17:26,240 --> 00:17:29,200 with enough money to transform his home town. 291 00:17:30,760 --> 00:17:33,120 Tell me about his philanthropy towards Bedford. 292 00:17:33,120 --> 00:17:38,200 In the 1550s, he bought the site of what was to be 293 00:17:38,200 --> 00:17:39,720 the grammar school, 294 00:17:39,720 --> 00:17:45,880 and this school was endowed by land from Holborn by the 1760s. 295 00:17:45,880 --> 00:17:49,600 The land became part of the Harpur Trust, 296 00:17:49,600 --> 00:17:54,080 and out of that was endowed, from the 1870s onwards, 297 00:17:54,080 --> 00:17:57,960 four public schools and the primary schools of Bedford. 298 00:17:59,120 --> 00:18:02,320 Until the late 19th century when the state school system 299 00:18:02,320 --> 00:18:06,440 that we know today began to take shape, many working-class children 300 00:18:06,440 --> 00:18:10,400 received no education at all beyond Sunday school. 301 00:18:10,400 --> 00:18:12,920 Harpur's generosity spread opportunity. 302 00:18:14,080 --> 00:18:16,800 He was also concerned to tackle poverty. 303 00:18:18,040 --> 00:18:19,680 How did the almshouses come about? 304 00:18:19,680 --> 00:18:25,200 Well, there was always almsgiving but in 1793 Act, there was 305 00:18:25,200 --> 00:18:29,760 a provision to be made for building 20 almshouses 306 00:18:29,760 --> 00:18:35,000 and then 46 houses for the industrious poor. 307 00:18:35,000 --> 00:18:38,720 What happened, in fact, was that the 20 were built 308 00:18:38,720 --> 00:18:43,040 and the 46 were, in fact, created as almshouses 309 00:18:43,040 --> 00:18:48,120 because that was the need after the great fire of Bedford of 1802. 310 00:18:48,120 --> 00:18:52,160 By the time the railway arrived in Bedford in 1846, 311 00:18:52,160 --> 00:18:56,080 the Poor Law of 1834 had changed everything. 312 00:18:57,160 --> 00:19:00,880 Parish assistance to the needy was limited to those 313 00:19:00,880 --> 00:19:03,080 who entered the grim workhouses. 314 00:19:04,520 --> 00:19:08,440 Some rich industrialists saw it as their Christian duty to support 315 00:19:08,440 --> 00:19:13,200 worthy causes, many of which are still going strong today. 316 00:19:13,200 --> 00:19:15,920 In today's Bedford, are there still people 317 00:19:15,920 --> 00:19:18,160 benefiting from the Harpur Trust? 318 00:19:18,160 --> 00:19:23,160 Indeed, in Harpur House, which was built from the sale 319 00:19:23,160 --> 00:19:26,240 of the western part of the old almshouses. 320 00:19:26,240 --> 00:19:28,000 I must go and see the people there. 321 00:19:28,000 --> 00:19:29,360 Very good. 322 00:19:29,360 --> 00:19:34,640 There are nearly 1,800 almshouse charities in the UK. 323 00:19:34,640 --> 00:19:38,760 The Harpur Trust provides accommodation to 25 elderly people 324 00:19:38,760 --> 00:19:40,000 in Harpur House. 325 00:19:41,000 --> 00:19:45,320 Many of the residents are from Bedford and went to Harpur schools, 326 00:19:45,320 --> 00:19:48,120 so they've known the Harpur name all their lives. 327 00:19:49,440 --> 00:19:50,600 Good morning, everybody. 328 00:19:50,600 --> 00:19:51,640 ALL: Good morning. 329 00:19:52,800 --> 00:19:55,080 Lovely to see you. May I sit here? 330 00:19:55,080 --> 00:19:57,040 You may. Thank you very much indeed. 331 00:19:57,040 --> 00:19:58,800 How long have you been here, sir? 332 00:19:58,800 --> 00:20:02,360 About ten weeks. So you're... I'm a new boy. You are a new boy. 333 00:20:02,360 --> 00:20:03,840 Yes. And how are you settling in? 334 00:20:03,840 --> 00:20:04,920 Very well. 335 00:20:04,920 --> 00:20:06,800 I came in on the Sunday, and by Monday, 336 00:20:06,800 --> 00:20:10,280 I felt as though I'd been here for years. 337 00:20:10,280 --> 00:20:13,720 I've really settled in, yes, and I'm happy I made the move. 338 00:20:13,720 --> 00:20:15,680 May I join you for a minute? 339 00:20:15,680 --> 00:20:19,040 Are you from Bedford? Well, I was born in Harpur Street. 340 00:20:19,040 --> 00:20:21,440 You were born in Harpur Street?! Yeah, yeah. 341 00:20:21,440 --> 00:20:23,080 So, at the beginning of your life, 342 00:20:23,080 --> 00:20:25,040 you lived in a place named after Harpur. 343 00:20:25,040 --> 00:20:27,080 Yeah, I did. And here you are now living in a place 344 00:20:27,080 --> 00:20:29,400 named after Harpur. Exactly. That's extraordinary. 345 00:20:29,400 --> 00:20:30,960 It is extraordinary, yeah. 346 00:20:30,960 --> 00:20:35,000 Hello, ladies and gentlemen. Now, do we have two sisters here? 347 00:20:35,000 --> 00:20:36,040 Yes. These two. 348 00:20:37,200 --> 00:20:39,480 We are a real big family. 349 00:20:39,480 --> 00:20:43,360 Our mum and dad used to live in Dame Alice Street, 350 00:20:43,360 --> 00:20:47,480 Dorothy's in-laws used to live in Dame Alice Street 351 00:20:47,480 --> 00:20:48,960 and one of my brothers, 352 00:20:48,960 --> 00:20:52,400 they lived in Dame Alice Street also. 353 00:20:52,400 --> 00:20:54,720 Do you think, while we're here, ladies and gentlemen, 354 00:20:54,720 --> 00:20:56,160 we should raise our tea cups 355 00:20:56,160 --> 00:21:01,640 and drink a sip to Sir William Harpur and Dame Alice? 356 00:21:01,640 --> 00:21:02,880 Dame Alice. 357 00:21:06,040 --> 00:21:10,240 In the 16th century, it was possible to become fabulously 358 00:21:10,240 --> 00:21:12,960 wealthy as it is today. 359 00:21:12,960 --> 00:21:17,200 For those now who are rich and who are considering philanthropy, 360 00:21:17,200 --> 00:21:20,200 think of the case of Sir William Harpur. 361 00:21:20,200 --> 00:21:22,280 500 years after his birth, 362 00:21:22,280 --> 00:21:25,080 he's still remembered for his charity 363 00:21:25,080 --> 00:21:27,520 and praised by his beneficiaries. 364 00:21:33,960 --> 00:21:37,240 Back at Bedford station, it's a short, 20-minute ride 365 00:21:37,240 --> 00:21:40,120 to the final destination on this leg of my journey. 366 00:21:45,840 --> 00:21:50,000 My next stop, Luton, was famous for hats in Bradshaw's time, 367 00:21:50,000 --> 00:21:54,960 being, as my guidebook says, "A town of straw platters." 368 00:21:54,960 --> 00:21:57,760 There were, in fact, many thousands in Bedfordshire. 369 00:21:57,760 --> 00:22:00,920 So, I'll weave in a visit as I head onwards. 370 00:22:02,680 --> 00:22:06,000 By the time of my guidebook, Luton had been transformed 371 00:22:06,000 --> 00:22:09,480 from a country market town to a busy urban centre 372 00:22:09,480 --> 00:22:12,920 thanks to a thriving straw hatting and plaiting industry. 373 00:22:13,960 --> 00:22:18,200 Its good fortune arose out of an embargo on straw imports 374 00:22:18,200 --> 00:22:20,640 from the Continent during the Napoleonic Wars 375 00:22:20,640 --> 00:22:24,560 of the early 19th century and the unprecedented demand that 376 00:22:24,560 --> 00:22:27,840 this placed on Bedfordshire's wheat and corn producers. 377 00:22:29,560 --> 00:22:33,200 One company to reap the benefits was Walter Wright Hats. 378 00:22:34,240 --> 00:22:35,400 Philip, hello. 379 00:22:35,400 --> 00:22:37,120 Hello, and welcome to Walter Wright's. 380 00:22:37,120 --> 00:22:38,760 Thank you very much indeed. 381 00:22:38,760 --> 00:22:42,720 When you meet someone for the first time... For example, me. 382 00:22:42,720 --> 00:22:45,920 ..do you find that you're always sizing them up? 383 00:22:45,920 --> 00:22:50,360 It's not just size, it's the proportion of hat 384 00:22:50,360 --> 00:22:51,600 and it's the demeanour. 385 00:22:51,600 --> 00:22:56,200 So, you have to find a hat that just reflects their look, their style, 386 00:22:56,200 --> 00:22:59,960 their message and the environment where that hat's going to be worn. 387 00:22:59,960 --> 00:23:03,760 No respectable Victorian man or woman would leave home 388 00:23:03,760 --> 00:23:05,200 without a hat. 389 00:23:05,200 --> 00:23:09,160 They were expected to know when, where, and how to wear it. 390 00:23:09,160 --> 00:23:13,040 So, having sized me up and having studied my demeanour, 391 00:23:13,040 --> 00:23:14,880 what do you think we should look at? 392 00:23:14,880 --> 00:23:18,480 It's got to be classical but with an edge of fun. 393 00:23:18,480 --> 00:23:20,040 Ooh. 394 00:23:20,040 --> 00:23:22,800 This is a brushed fur felt. 395 00:23:22,800 --> 00:23:27,560 So we have a severe bad look at a wedding. 396 00:23:28,640 --> 00:23:29,880 However... 397 00:23:32,200 --> 00:23:36,720 ..Champagne Charlie would have always worn it on a slight angle 398 00:23:36,720 --> 00:23:38,680 to soften the eyes. 399 00:23:38,680 --> 00:23:40,760 It's amazing, in a moment you've converted me 400 00:23:40,760 --> 00:23:43,720 from an investment banker into a rake! 401 00:23:47,240 --> 00:23:50,320 Ooh, I quite fancy myself in that. 402 00:23:51,480 --> 00:23:52,600 Copper. 403 00:23:53,800 --> 00:23:55,440 Rake. THEY LAUGH 404 00:23:55,440 --> 00:23:57,920 Do you know, I've learnt more about hats in the last minute 405 00:23:57,920 --> 00:23:59,480 than in the rest of my life. 406 00:23:59,480 --> 00:24:00,680 It's my passion. 407 00:24:02,160 --> 00:24:05,200 Top hats were standard, year round attire 408 00:24:05,200 --> 00:24:08,640 for the upper and middle class Victorian gent 409 00:24:08,640 --> 00:24:10,560 until the late 19th century, 410 00:24:10,560 --> 00:24:14,400 when the straw boater became de rigueur in summer. 411 00:24:14,400 --> 00:24:15,840 Philip has offered to show me 412 00:24:15,840 --> 00:24:18,520 what goes into creating this classic design. 413 00:24:20,040 --> 00:24:22,680 Around the sort of late 1800s, 414 00:24:22,680 --> 00:24:25,480 these blocks would have been made solely out of wood. 415 00:24:26,920 --> 00:24:31,640 The process of wooden blocking meant that the dehydration process 416 00:24:31,640 --> 00:24:33,080 was a lot slower. 417 00:24:33,080 --> 00:24:35,920 They would've had to dry them in an oven. 418 00:24:35,920 --> 00:24:40,560 By having the aluminium hot, it means the fibre dries on the block, 419 00:24:40,560 --> 00:24:41,800 it's a lot quicker. 420 00:24:41,800 --> 00:24:45,440 So by the 1910, 1920s, it meant my great-grandmother 421 00:24:45,440 --> 00:24:50,240 could produce 1,000 dozen a week as opposed to a lot less using wood. 422 00:24:50,240 --> 00:24:55,680 So, we've taken a natural straw and now we are going to heat gently. 423 00:24:55,680 --> 00:24:58,440 Ease the fibre. Oh! That's quite hot! 424 00:24:58,440 --> 00:25:00,120 It's as warm as an iron. 425 00:25:00,120 --> 00:25:01,360 MICHAEL PANTS 426 00:25:01,360 --> 00:25:05,360 A good blocker. You can tell he knows what he's doing cos he can take 427 00:25:05,360 --> 00:25:09,360 the Sunday roast out of the oven without using oven gloves. 428 00:25:09,360 --> 00:25:10,640 What are you doing now? 429 00:25:10,640 --> 00:25:15,360 I'm putting the string round edge of the block which stretches 430 00:25:15,360 --> 00:25:19,120 the material and gives the machinists an edge to go by. 431 00:25:20,480 --> 00:25:21,880 I'm just going to pop her up... 432 00:25:23,000 --> 00:25:25,600 ..into the other side of the mould. 433 00:25:25,600 --> 00:25:27,320 And more heat applied there? 434 00:25:27,320 --> 00:25:31,520 More heat applied. So she's now being fully baked top and under. 435 00:25:31,520 --> 00:25:33,840 Now, your family has been in hats for a long time. 436 00:25:33,840 --> 00:25:36,160 My great-grandfather... 437 00:25:36,160 --> 00:25:39,920 he'd been making hats for 400 years, or his family, for 400 years. 438 00:25:39,920 --> 00:25:41,160 It's in the blood, I guess. 439 00:25:42,440 --> 00:25:45,720 That's nice and dry and holding its shape. 440 00:25:45,720 --> 00:25:49,080 Yep. And so there is your boater. 441 00:25:49,080 --> 00:25:51,880 Hmm, not quite. You're right. 442 00:25:51,880 --> 00:25:54,120 Next step, follow me. 443 00:25:54,120 --> 00:25:55,960 Thank you. 444 00:25:55,960 --> 00:25:58,600 Michael, Janet. Janet, Michael. BOTH: Hello. 445 00:25:58,600 --> 00:26:01,960 And you're going to take the hat to the next stage. 446 00:26:01,960 --> 00:26:05,480 I'm going to cut this edge off so it comes down to this line 447 00:26:05,480 --> 00:26:07,320 and I'm going to put a wire in it. 448 00:26:08,560 --> 00:26:10,960 This is giving Janet a clear mark, 449 00:26:10,960 --> 00:26:13,640 a clear edge to work to with her scissors. 450 00:26:13,640 --> 00:26:16,240 It's a lovely, scrunchy noise it makes. 451 00:26:16,240 --> 00:26:19,320 Right, now that is looking like a boater, I'll give you that. 452 00:26:19,320 --> 00:26:22,400 'After the edge has been trimmed a reed is inserted 453 00:26:22,400 --> 00:26:23,800 'to strengthen the brim... 454 00:26:26,280 --> 00:26:28,200 '..and then sewn into place.' 455 00:26:30,960 --> 00:26:32,720 Wow, done! 456 00:26:32,720 --> 00:26:37,880 'The next stage is to stitch in the headband to keep the hat in place.' 457 00:26:37,880 --> 00:26:40,200 Wow, Janet, that is extraordinary skill 458 00:26:40,200 --> 00:26:43,040 and absolutely faultless. 459 00:26:44,840 --> 00:26:46,080 Fantastic. 460 00:26:46,080 --> 00:26:48,480 So now to Linda for the decoration. 461 00:26:48,480 --> 00:26:51,120 Hello, Linda. Hello, nice to meet you. Very good to see you. 462 00:26:51,120 --> 00:26:52,920 How does a chap choose his ribbon colour? 463 00:26:54,240 --> 00:26:58,880 Choices from old school, colours, old regiment, old university, 464 00:26:58,880 --> 00:27:00,680 old college, or... 465 00:27:00,680 --> 00:27:02,680 Old party, how about that? 466 00:27:02,680 --> 00:27:04,960 Well, there's a surprise! 467 00:27:06,760 --> 00:27:10,560 An historic hat for an historic party, 468 00:27:10,560 --> 00:27:12,480 the perfect way to end my day. 469 00:27:19,560 --> 00:27:23,520 I think of my guidebook as a valuable historic volume 470 00:27:23,520 --> 00:27:26,800 but it doesn't compare with George Bradshaw's earliest 471 00:27:26,800 --> 00:27:31,240 railway publication which I encountered in Oxford University. 472 00:27:31,240 --> 00:27:34,680 Even before Sir Thomas Bodley had bequeathed his library, 473 00:27:34,680 --> 00:27:38,680 Sir William Harpur had left money for the relief of the poor 474 00:27:38,680 --> 00:27:42,720 in Bedford, good works that continue to this day. 475 00:27:42,720 --> 00:27:45,680 It will soon be possible again to travel by train 476 00:27:45,680 --> 00:27:47,800 from Oxford to Bedford, 477 00:27:47,800 --> 00:27:52,160 and on that great day, I'll throw my hat in the air. 478 00:27:55,360 --> 00:27:59,360 Next time, I get to grips with a Victorian melodrama. 479 00:27:59,360 --> 00:28:02,120 It's a story about a signalman who gets the opportunity 480 00:28:02,120 --> 00:28:05,520 to either save his son or crash a train. 481 00:28:05,520 --> 00:28:06,800 MICHAEL GASPS 482 00:28:06,800 --> 00:28:09,520 I hear ghoulish hospital tales... 483 00:28:09,520 --> 00:28:11,120 Something like an amputation 484 00:28:11,120 --> 00:28:13,680 would have taken around about two to three minutes. 485 00:28:13,680 --> 00:28:15,800 Have to work extremely fast. 486 00:28:15,800 --> 00:28:19,080 ..and learn about the student days of Charles Darwin. 487 00:28:20,920 --> 00:28:24,040 These are the actual beetles that gave him so much pleasure 488 00:28:24,040 --> 00:28:26,680 and so much obsession when he was an undergraduate. 489 00:28:26,680 --> 00:28:28,560 This is absolutely stunning.