1 00:00:04,720 --> 00:00:09,280 For Victorian Britons, George Bradshaw was a household name. 2 00:00:09,280 --> 00:00:11,520 At a time when railways were new, 3 00:00:11,520 --> 00:00:16,160 Bradshaw's guidebook inspired them to take to the tracks. 4 00:00:16,160 --> 00:00:18,040 I'm using a Bradshaw's guide 5 00:00:18,040 --> 00:00:21,000 to understand how trains transformed Britain, 6 00:00:21,000 --> 00:00:26,400 its landscape, its industries, society and leisure time. 7 00:00:26,400 --> 00:00:31,200 As I crisscross the country 150 years later, it helps me 8 00:00:31,200 --> 00:00:33,560 to discover the Britain of today. 9 00:00:51,840 --> 00:00:53,560 I'm continuing my journey 10 00:00:53,560 --> 00:00:57,040 through the verdant landscape of northwest England 11 00:00:57,040 --> 00:00:59,760 towards its industrial heart, 12 00:00:59,760 --> 00:01:03,200 where the Victorian working class lived and worked 13 00:01:03,200 --> 00:01:09,280 in a new cityscape of factories, railway stations and terraced houses. 14 00:01:09,280 --> 00:01:11,160 On this journey, I want to find out 15 00:01:11,160 --> 00:01:14,840 what daily life was like for the nation's first urban workers 16 00:01:14,840 --> 00:01:18,480 and how they documented it in art and poetry. 17 00:01:24,840 --> 00:01:27,520 This week I'm travelling through northwest England 18 00:01:27,520 --> 00:01:29,800 to the West Midlands. 19 00:01:29,800 --> 00:01:31,320 I started in Cumbria, 20 00:01:31,320 --> 00:01:36,360 winding south through the spectacular countryside of the Lake District, 21 00:01:36,360 --> 00:01:38,640 and I'm continuing on to Lancashire, 22 00:01:38,640 --> 00:01:41,040 heart of the Industrial Revolution, 23 00:01:41,040 --> 00:01:43,960 before I head further south to Staffordshire. 24 00:01:46,400 --> 00:01:49,000 On today's stretch I begin in Preston, 25 00:01:49,000 --> 00:01:52,480 travel southeast to a market town, Darwen, 26 00:01:52,480 --> 00:01:55,520 discover a dark tale in Entwistle 27 00:01:55,520 --> 00:01:59,200 and hear stories of matchstick men in Salford. 28 00:01:59,200 --> 00:02:01,320 I'll end this leg on Kersal Moor. 29 00:02:03,360 --> 00:02:08,040 In this episode, I dabble in 21st-century technology... 30 00:02:08,040 --> 00:02:09,800 Feels like some medical procedure. 31 00:02:09,800 --> 00:02:12,400 ..learn a thing or two about art... 32 00:02:12,400 --> 00:02:15,120 I'm sure you're almost about to say matchstick figures, 33 00:02:15,120 --> 00:02:17,600 aren't you, Michael? Well, matchsticks they are not. 34 00:02:17,600 --> 00:02:19,720 They are much more observed, much more acute. 35 00:02:19,720 --> 00:02:23,640 ..and enjoy a good old Lancashire sing-song. 36 00:02:23,640 --> 00:02:27,560 # As they did when he meazur't me finger 37 00:02:27,560 --> 00:02:31,720 # For th' little gowd ring last neet. # 38 00:02:31,720 --> 00:02:33,200 Bravo! 39 00:02:40,760 --> 00:02:43,600 My journey continues to take me south, 40 00:02:43,600 --> 00:02:47,560 today towards the heart of Lancashire manufacturing. 41 00:02:47,560 --> 00:02:50,080 Bradshaw's tells me that Preston possessed, 42 00:02:50,080 --> 00:02:53,760 before the passing of the Great Reform Act of 1832, 43 00:02:53,760 --> 00:02:57,880 "the only real democratic electoral suffrage in the kingdom. 44 00:02:57,880 --> 00:03:01,240 "All its inhabitants above 21 years of age, 45 00:03:01,240 --> 00:03:05,480 "if free from the taint of pauperism, were entitled to a vote." 46 00:03:05,480 --> 00:03:09,840 The 19th century brought an industrial revolution but also 47 00:03:09,840 --> 00:03:15,760 a vast extension of the suffrage and improvements in conditions of work. 48 00:03:15,760 --> 00:03:20,240 And in those battles, some of the first shots were fired in Preston. 49 00:03:23,040 --> 00:03:28,120 The city sits between coastal plain, river valley and moorland. 50 00:03:28,120 --> 00:03:31,640 By the time my guidebook was published in the 1860s, 51 00:03:31,640 --> 00:03:33,640 Preston had been transformed 52 00:03:33,640 --> 00:03:38,120 from an unassuming market town dotted with weavers' cottages 53 00:03:38,120 --> 00:03:41,960 into a densely-populated centre of 70,000 people 54 00:03:41,960 --> 00:03:45,480 built around 60 or so cotton mills. 55 00:03:45,480 --> 00:03:48,040 Today the factories are long gone, 56 00:03:48,040 --> 00:03:51,160 but the memory of their workers lives on. 57 00:03:51,160 --> 00:03:55,000 I'm meeting local historian and trade unionist Jim Leigh 58 00:03:55,000 --> 00:03:56,240 at Preston Market. 59 00:03:57,320 --> 00:04:00,640 According to Bradshaw's, there was a lot of industrial unrest 60 00:04:00,640 --> 00:04:02,520 in the first half of the 19th century. 61 00:04:02,520 --> 00:04:04,760 Was there something very special about Preston? 62 00:04:04,760 --> 00:04:08,680 There was. Preston had a notoriety as a very militant town. 63 00:04:08,680 --> 00:04:11,840 I think it was a combination of extremely low wages 64 00:04:11,840 --> 00:04:16,040 paid in the town together with shockingly poor housing conditions. 65 00:04:16,040 --> 00:04:21,080 80% of the town depended on the mills for employment and housing. 66 00:04:21,080 --> 00:04:25,000 Workers faced long hours and dangerous conditions. 67 00:04:25,000 --> 00:04:30,200 Their houses were filthy, cramped and overcrowded, so disease spread fast. 68 00:04:30,200 --> 00:04:32,680 Towards the end of the 19th century, 69 00:04:32,680 --> 00:04:37,760 Preston had one of the highest rates of infant mortality in the country. 70 00:04:37,760 --> 00:04:39,920 I believe there was a big event in 1842. 71 00:04:39,920 --> 00:04:41,840 What was the background to that? 72 00:04:41,840 --> 00:04:46,240 A severe recession was gripping the country, unemployment was high 73 00:04:46,240 --> 00:04:49,640 and employers up and down the land began cutting wages. 74 00:04:49,640 --> 00:04:53,400 So there's a lot of anger and frustration out there. 75 00:04:53,400 --> 00:04:58,160 In response, a working-class movement, Chartism, tried to unite 76 00:04:58,160 --> 00:05:03,080 workers across Britain in a strike over pay and factory conditions. 77 00:05:03,080 --> 00:05:08,240 In August 1842, Preston's mill workers joined the protest. 78 00:05:09,640 --> 00:05:11,440 And how did matters develop? 79 00:05:11,440 --> 00:05:15,280 Groups of men and youths began assembling about the town. 80 00:05:15,280 --> 00:05:18,880 Soon these small groups converged into one large group, 81 00:05:18,880 --> 00:05:23,600 who then began visiting every mill and workshop across the town 82 00:05:23,600 --> 00:05:26,840 and successfully brought them to a standstill. 83 00:05:26,840 --> 00:05:28,920 The Mayor and magistrates, 84 00:05:28,920 --> 00:05:31,720 accompanied by a detachment of soldiers, 85 00:05:31,720 --> 00:05:33,920 resolved to confront the protestors. 86 00:05:35,240 --> 00:05:39,640 What had been a peaceful protest escalated into a violent one. 87 00:05:41,720 --> 00:05:45,760 Jim, it comes to be known as the Lune Street Riot. How? 88 00:05:45,760 --> 00:05:49,880 They went about stopping the mills wherever they could find them 89 00:05:49,880 --> 00:05:51,840 the following day. 90 00:05:51,840 --> 00:05:54,760 The strikers then began proceeding up Lune Street 91 00:05:54,760 --> 00:05:57,920 and it was here that they were confronted by the military. 92 00:05:57,920 --> 00:06:00,600 And it was there that the Riot Act was read out. 93 00:06:00,600 --> 00:06:03,360 We quite often refer to reading the Riot Act 94 00:06:03,360 --> 00:06:05,360 without perhaps thinking what it means, 95 00:06:05,360 --> 00:06:07,160 but I've got here what is read out 96 00:06:07,160 --> 00:06:10,280 by someone like the Mayor of Preston on such an occasion. 97 00:06:10,280 --> 00:06:13,760 "Our Sovereign Lady the Queen chargeth and commandeth all persons 98 00:06:13,760 --> 00:06:17,680 "being assembled immediately to disperse themselves and peaceably 99 00:06:17,680 --> 00:06:21,040 "to depart to their habitations or to their lawful businesses 100 00:06:21,040 --> 00:06:24,000 "upon the pains contained in the act 101 00:06:24,000 --> 00:06:26,520 "made in the first year of King George I 102 00:06:26,520 --> 00:06:31,280 "for preventing tumults and riotous assemblies. God save the Queen." 103 00:06:32,920 --> 00:06:35,400 The cotton workers refused to back down 104 00:06:35,400 --> 00:06:39,480 and the military opened fire, killing four of them. 105 00:06:39,480 --> 00:06:43,840 The tragic event of 1842 has not been forgotten 106 00:06:43,840 --> 00:06:46,160 and 150 years later 107 00:06:46,160 --> 00:06:50,520 a monument was erected to commemorate this fateful day. 108 00:06:50,520 --> 00:06:55,280 Jim, this is a very striking monument. What was its inspiration? 109 00:06:55,280 --> 00:06:58,240 I believe it's based on the famous Goya painting 110 00:06:58,240 --> 00:07:01,520 that depicted a scene from the Napoleonic Wars. 111 00:07:01,520 --> 00:07:03,960 And I see that flowers are laid. 112 00:07:03,960 --> 00:07:07,800 Yes, these are from Workers Memorial Day, which commemorates 113 00:07:07,800 --> 00:07:10,760 workers who died at work each year. 114 00:07:10,760 --> 00:07:12,480 Jim, you're a trade unionist, 115 00:07:12,480 --> 00:07:14,760 I'm sure you've been involved in a few disputes. 116 00:07:14,760 --> 00:07:17,160 How do you assess the significance of this event? 117 00:07:17,160 --> 00:07:19,200 This is extremely important. 118 00:07:19,200 --> 00:07:23,520 It's part of Preston's radical history which continues to this day. 119 00:07:28,120 --> 00:07:32,480 Little changed for the mill workers in the aftermath of the riot, but 120 00:07:32,480 --> 00:07:37,680 the event retains a symbolic place in Britain's working-class history. 121 00:07:46,360 --> 00:07:49,360 The next leg of my journey takes me southeast. 122 00:07:49,360 --> 00:07:51,240 I have to change at Blackburn 123 00:07:51,240 --> 00:07:54,080 before heading across the West Pennine moors. 124 00:07:57,080 --> 00:07:59,240 I'm on my way to Darwen. 125 00:07:59,240 --> 00:08:03,360 Bradshaw's tells me that the paper mills of Messrs Potter 126 00:08:03,360 --> 00:08:09,480 produced 400 miles of paper, weighing 40 tonnes, per day. 127 00:08:09,480 --> 00:08:12,560 Increasing quantities of paper were needed to adorn 128 00:08:12,560 --> 00:08:14,720 the walls of the middle classes, 129 00:08:14,720 --> 00:08:19,480 bringing the colours of nature into the Victorian drawing room. 130 00:08:25,480 --> 00:08:30,080 The town sits in a valley amid 90 square miles of open moorland. 131 00:08:31,240 --> 00:08:34,120 Following the arrival of the railway in 1847, 132 00:08:34,120 --> 00:08:39,160 Darwen, like many northern towns, began to develop industrially. 133 00:08:39,160 --> 00:08:43,280 The manufacture of paper and textiles led it to become 134 00:08:43,280 --> 00:08:47,800 one of the largest Victorian mill towns in Lancashire. 135 00:08:47,800 --> 00:08:49,680 The mills have long since shut 136 00:08:49,680 --> 00:08:53,640 but a paint factory rich in Victorian heritage is still 137 00:08:53,640 --> 00:08:56,040 going strong in the town today. 138 00:08:56,040 --> 00:09:00,480 It's here that I'm meeting customer services director Geraldine Huxley. 139 00:09:01,520 --> 00:09:05,520 Geraldine, the company mentioned in my Bradshaw's guide is Potters, 140 00:09:05,520 --> 00:09:06,800 which was making paper. 141 00:09:06,800 --> 00:09:09,400 What is the connection between that and today's company? 142 00:09:09,400 --> 00:09:11,800 Well, John Potter was a Manchester businessman 143 00:09:11,800 --> 00:09:14,720 and he came to live in the area and he married 144 00:09:14,720 --> 00:09:18,400 the daughter of the gentleman who invented the calico printing. 145 00:09:18,400 --> 00:09:21,880 He actually came into the business and took over and turned it into 146 00:09:21,880 --> 00:09:25,320 a mechanical operation rather than a manual operation. 147 00:09:25,320 --> 00:09:31,480 In 1839, the Potters developed a steam-driven surface printing machine 148 00:09:31,480 --> 00:09:34,120 which enabled them to mass-produce wallpaper. 149 00:09:34,120 --> 00:09:38,320 With the repeal of the wallpaper tax in 1836, 150 00:09:38,320 --> 00:09:41,520 wallpaper became a very important element 151 00:09:41,520 --> 00:09:46,760 of Victorian interior decoration, replacing panelling and tapestries. 152 00:09:46,760 --> 00:09:50,400 William Morris's Trellis pattern of 1864 153 00:09:50,400 --> 00:09:55,160 influenced generations of designers and remains popular today. 154 00:09:56,680 --> 00:09:59,160 Which came first in Darwen, wallpaper or paint? 155 00:09:59,160 --> 00:10:03,720 Wallpaper, definitely. Paint wasn't really experimented with until 1904, 156 00:10:03,720 --> 00:10:05,360 some 100 years later. 157 00:10:05,360 --> 00:10:07,360 In the Edwardian period, 158 00:10:07,360 --> 00:10:11,280 brighter, paler colours were made using synthetic dyes 159 00:10:11,280 --> 00:10:14,720 produced by the rapidly-developing chemical industry. 160 00:10:14,720 --> 00:10:18,640 Potters paint also played an important part beyond 161 00:10:18,640 --> 00:10:20,400 the homes of the middle classes. 162 00:10:20,400 --> 00:10:23,040 Something of special interest, I think you will find, 163 00:10:23,040 --> 00:10:25,560 is the palette of paints that were specially designed 164 00:10:25,560 --> 00:10:27,000 for the railway industry. 165 00:10:27,000 --> 00:10:31,440 "British Railways Eastern Region standard colour range for paint". 166 00:10:32,680 --> 00:10:36,720 Now, some of these are what I would expect, these kind of muted browns 167 00:10:36,720 --> 00:10:39,760 and beiges, but actually, some of them are quite bright. 168 00:10:39,760 --> 00:10:42,880 Look at this vivid yellow and look at that sort of scarlet colour. 169 00:10:42,880 --> 00:10:44,280 Very nice indeed. 170 00:10:45,800 --> 00:10:47,640 Today, the company produces 171 00:10:47,640 --> 00:10:52,720 a staggering 385,000 litres of paint per day - 172 00:10:52,720 --> 00:10:57,200 enough to fill 38 Olympic-sized swimming pools every year. 173 00:11:00,000 --> 00:11:03,040 I'm heading to the research and development department 174 00:11:03,040 --> 00:11:04,360 to meet David Booth. 175 00:11:06,440 --> 00:11:08,400 There's a vast range of colours here 176 00:11:08,400 --> 00:11:12,120 and a layman might think that all possible colours are here. 177 00:11:12,120 --> 00:11:16,800 But I've been thinking about whether I could match this jacket here 178 00:11:16,800 --> 00:11:20,520 and at first I thought it was something like that... No. 179 00:11:20,520 --> 00:11:22,920 Uh... No, it's far too orange. 180 00:11:22,920 --> 00:11:24,640 Wait a minute, what about this one? 181 00:11:24,640 --> 00:11:26,680 That's the nearest, but it's too weak. 182 00:11:26,680 --> 00:11:28,360 So how will I match that up? 183 00:11:28,360 --> 00:11:31,600 What we can do is take your jacket and actually put it onto the machine 184 00:11:31,600 --> 00:11:34,000 and we'll get a prediction and make the paint up. 185 00:11:34,000 --> 00:11:37,400 So I could buy a colour like that and paint my wall, 186 00:11:37,400 --> 00:11:40,680 just in case I wanted to camouflage myself at home. You could, yes. 187 00:11:40,680 --> 00:11:42,560 Can we give it a go? Yeah, we can indeed. 188 00:11:42,560 --> 00:11:45,960 Right, can you please put your arm in there and push it up tight... 189 00:11:45,960 --> 00:11:48,200 Whoops! ..against the machine? 190 00:11:48,200 --> 00:11:49,520 Leave it there for a moment. 191 00:11:49,520 --> 00:11:50,920 This is very weird. 192 00:11:52,200 --> 00:11:56,800 A spectrophotometer analyses colour composition by measuring 193 00:11:56,800 --> 00:11:59,280 the reflected light from a sample. 194 00:11:59,280 --> 00:12:03,600 Feels like some medical procedure, like having my blood pressure taken! 195 00:12:03,600 --> 00:12:06,600 Now David selects a base paint 196 00:12:06,600 --> 00:12:09,280 and the appropriate pigments from a database. 197 00:12:11,640 --> 00:12:14,360 Oh! I can see those streams of colour going in there. 198 00:12:14,360 --> 00:12:15,960 It's the moment of truth. 199 00:12:17,120 --> 00:12:18,960 Whoa! Look at that! 200 00:12:20,000 --> 00:12:23,840 Portillo pink. Stock up now, it will be in fashion next year! 201 00:12:25,640 --> 00:12:28,760 I'd love to stay and paint the town pink, 202 00:12:28,760 --> 00:12:31,840 but I have a short journey to make before the day is out. 203 00:12:33,320 --> 00:12:36,520 I'm heading five miles south through East Lancashire 204 00:12:36,520 --> 00:12:40,720 on the Ribble Valley line to a rural station just north of Bolton. 205 00:12:42,280 --> 00:12:45,480 Entwistle. Request stop? That's correct. 206 00:12:45,480 --> 00:12:47,920 Could we stop at Entwistle, please? You certainly can. 207 00:12:47,920 --> 00:12:50,480 Make it easier to get off. Yes. Thank you. 208 00:12:50,480 --> 00:12:51,760 Don't forget! 209 00:12:56,960 --> 00:13:02,000 So we've emerged into the light after passing through a very long tunnel, 210 00:13:02,000 --> 00:13:05,560 the Sough Tunnel, which I believe was quite an early 211 00:13:05,560 --> 00:13:09,200 piece of railway engineering about which I'd like to know more. 212 00:13:10,880 --> 00:13:14,920 On the south side of the Sough Tunnel sits Entwistle Station, 213 00:13:14,920 --> 00:13:17,000 set in a small village overlooking 214 00:13:17,000 --> 00:13:20,040 the rugged countryside of the lower Pennine hills. 215 00:13:20,040 --> 00:13:22,320 Thank you very much. Thank you. Nice to meet you. 216 00:13:22,320 --> 00:13:25,160 I was afraid you might have forgotten - to stop, I mean. Oh, no. 217 00:13:25,160 --> 00:13:27,080 Thank you. Thank you, bye-bye. 218 00:13:28,280 --> 00:13:32,840 I'm meeting local historian Eileen Cowen on the platform to find out 219 00:13:32,840 --> 00:13:36,840 more about the construction of the tunnel and the workforce behind it. 220 00:13:36,840 --> 00:13:40,040 Eileen. Hello. Lovely to see you. Welcome to Entwistle. 221 00:13:40,040 --> 00:13:43,840 I've just come through Sough Tunnel. Why did it have to be built? 222 00:13:43,840 --> 00:13:48,320 It was to carry the Blackburn-Darwen line through to Bolton 223 00:13:48,320 --> 00:13:51,960 and on to Manchester, which was very important for the industry 224 00:13:51,960 --> 00:13:55,520 in Darwen and Blackburn. And in the way was Cranberry Moss, 225 00:13:55,520 --> 00:14:01,280 which is 1,000 feet high, riddled with coal mines, water courses. 226 00:14:01,280 --> 00:14:04,560 Very, very bleak in winter, it really is. 227 00:14:06,120 --> 00:14:11,240 In 1848, the 1,850-metre tunnel was completed 228 00:14:11,240 --> 00:14:13,480 and the line through to Bolton opened. 229 00:14:15,160 --> 00:14:16,720 Who built it? 230 00:14:16,720 --> 00:14:19,520 2,000 men worked there eventually. 231 00:14:19,520 --> 00:14:23,040 Not mechanised - using wheelbarrows, picks, shovels. 232 00:14:23,040 --> 00:14:27,120 Some expert tunnellers, but a lot of them just using their strength. 233 00:14:28,240 --> 00:14:32,840 By the height of railway mania in the mid-19th century a quarter of 234 00:14:32,840 --> 00:14:37,200 a million navvies had laid 3,000 miles of track across Britain, 235 00:14:37,200 --> 00:14:39,880 transforming the rural landscape forever. 236 00:14:41,240 --> 00:14:43,000 Where would they be living? 237 00:14:43,000 --> 00:14:46,520 The majority of them lived up on the hilltops 238 00:14:46,520 --> 00:14:49,920 in shanties made out of turf and stone. 239 00:14:49,920 --> 00:14:52,760 What were conditions like in the camps where they lived? 240 00:14:52,760 --> 00:14:55,560 They were living in very exposed conditions. 241 00:14:55,560 --> 00:14:58,960 The land now is wet and bleak. 242 00:14:58,960 --> 00:15:01,560 In winter it's covered in snow a lot of the time, 243 00:15:01,560 --> 00:15:04,160 sometimes six foot high on the roads round here. 244 00:15:04,160 --> 00:15:06,440 And they worked through the winters. 245 00:15:06,440 --> 00:15:11,560 A navvy's life was harsh and the work was notoriously dangerous. 246 00:15:11,560 --> 00:15:15,200 Five lives were lost during the building of the Sough Tunnel. 247 00:15:16,520 --> 00:15:19,960 I count myself fortunate to have a warm bed for the night. 248 00:15:27,880 --> 00:15:32,560 Refreshed, I am ready to continue my journey across northwest England. 249 00:15:34,280 --> 00:15:37,920 I decided to spend the night in a delightful pub 250 00:15:37,920 --> 00:15:43,160 with a great view over the moors, and it's just by Entwistle Station. 251 00:15:43,160 --> 00:15:45,160 My train is at 8:21. 252 00:15:45,160 --> 00:15:48,760 Provided I leave here at 8:19 I should be in good time. 253 00:15:55,120 --> 00:15:58,360 Following my guidebook, I'm heading 15 miles south 254 00:15:58,360 --> 00:16:02,280 across the Lancashire border to Salford in Greater Manchester. 255 00:16:09,360 --> 00:16:12,080 Bradshaw's paints a marvellous picture 256 00:16:12,080 --> 00:16:16,880 of an English manufacturing town in the middle of the 19th century. 257 00:16:16,880 --> 00:16:20,960 "Thronged streets and narrow lanes stretch out on each side. 258 00:16:20,960 --> 00:16:24,760 "Mills and factories rise out of the dense mass of houses, 259 00:16:24,760 --> 00:16:28,200 "and a forest of chimneys towering upwards 260 00:16:28,200 --> 00:16:32,600 "point out the local seats of manufacturing." 261 00:16:32,600 --> 00:16:39,240 It took only an artist of Salford to add the matchstick men and women. 262 00:16:43,400 --> 00:16:46,760 The Industrial Revolution dramatically transformed Salford 263 00:16:46,760 --> 00:16:51,080 from a small market town on the banks of the River Irwell into a sprawling, 264 00:16:51,080 --> 00:16:56,000 smoke-filled conurbation housing a population of over 200,000. 265 00:16:56,000 --> 00:16:57,920 With overcrowded slums, 266 00:16:57,920 --> 00:17:02,840 at the time of my guidebook, areas of Salford were deprived and squalid. 267 00:17:05,360 --> 00:17:08,360 Lancashire artist Laurence Stephen Lowry 268 00:17:08,360 --> 00:17:12,920 famously captured the 20th-century legacy of Victorian Salford, 269 00:17:12,920 --> 00:17:16,640 of which just a hint still stands today. 270 00:17:16,640 --> 00:17:20,280 A fitting place to meet art historian William Feaver. 271 00:17:20,280 --> 00:17:23,640 What do you think attracted Lowry to depicting 272 00:17:23,640 --> 00:17:26,640 an industrial landscape with all its smoke and so on? 273 00:17:26,640 --> 00:17:30,240 He always lived here, it was utterly familiar to him. 274 00:17:30,240 --> 00:17:32,920 It was useful to be surrounded by your subject 275 00:17:32,920 --> 00:17:36,000 rather than to have to go out and find it too far away. 276 00:17:36,000 --> 00:17:42,000 He recognised that in the tones of grotty, smoky, dark, wet Manchester, 277 00:17:42,000 --> 00:17:44,560 there were very beautiful things to be seen. 278 00:17:44,560 --> 00:17:49,920 Born in 1887, Lowry recorded nearly a century of industrial life 279 00:17:49,920 --> 00:17:52,120 in Salford and Manchester. 280 00:17:52,120 --> 00:17:56,160 He was the first artist to engage with industrial working-class 281 00:17:56,160 --> 00:17:59,760 culture, which until then was viewed as unsavoury 282 00:17:59,760 --> 00:18:02,920 and scarcely worthy as a subject for art. 283 00:18:02,920 --> 00:18:04,520 Do you think he felt an empathy 284 00:18:04,520 --> 00:18:06,960 with the people he painted in these streets? 285 00:18:06,960 --> 00:18:09,440 Well, yes and no. His father had been a rent collector 286 00:18:09,440 --> 00:18:12,040 and he was a rent collector for a living for many years. 287 00:18:12,040 --> 00:18:15,560 He was obviously resented by some of the people he called on regularly 288 00:18:15,560 --> 00:18:18,720 and also he was familiar to them, so it worked both ways. 289 00:18:20,040 --> 00:18:23,760 Today, the largest public collection of his works is housed 290 00:18:23,760 --> 00:18:26,720 at The Lowry in Salford Quays. 291 00:18:26,720 --> 00:18:29,400 The arts complex opened in 2000 292 00:18:29,400 --> 00:18:34,480 as part of a £106 million docklands regeneration scheme. 293 00:18:34,480 --> 00:18:36,800 Michael, I thought you'd like to see this drawing 294 00:18:36,800 --> 00:18:40,040 because it's an illustration almost of what happened to Lowry once. 295 00:18:40,040 --> 00:18:42,600 He was on Pendlebury Station, missed his train, 296 00:18:42,600 --> 00:18:44,400 looking around for something to do, 297 00:18:44,400 --> 00:18:47,640 looked and saw the industrial landscape stretched around him - 298 00:18:47,640 --> 00:18:50,600 smoking chimneys, the people scurrying below him. 299 00:18:50,600 --> 00:18:53,680 And I suppose in a way this commemorates that eureka, 300 00:18:53,680 --> 00:18:58,320 bingo moment when he suddenly found himself a life's work ahead of him. 301 00:18:58,320 --> 00:19:01,160 Lowry's contemporaries often questioned 302 00:19:01,160 --> 00:19:04,400 what he saw in such ordinariness. 303 00:19:04,400 --> 00:19:08,880 ARCHIVE RECORDING: People often tell me that, "And why do you paint such and such subjects?" 304 00:19:08,880 --> 00:19:11,400 Well, I say, why shouldn't I paint them? 305 00:19:11,400 --> 00:19:13,760 I like to paint them, so why not? 306 00:19:15,000 --> 00:19:17,040 So here we see a Salford street, 307 00:19:17,040 --> 00:19:19,880 and, as ever, dominated by the smoking chimney stack. 308 00:19:19,880 --> 00:19:22,720 The houses and people are rendered quite simply. 309 00:19:22,720 --> 00:19:24,840 Would we be right to think of this as naive? 310 00:19:24,840 --> 00:19:26,000 You can say it's naive 311 00:19:26,000 --> 00:19:28,600 but actually I think it's much more subtle than naive. 312 00:19:28,600 --> 00:19:31,520 And I'm sure you're almost about to say matchstick figures, 313 00:19:31,520 --> 00:19:34,000 aren't you, Michael? Well, matchsticks they are not. 314 00:19:34,000 --> 00:19:37,520 They are much more observed, much more acute. 315 00:19:37,520 --> 00:19:41,680 Lowry painted the ordinary people he saw at work and at leisure 316 00:19:41,680 --> 00:19:44,840 on the streets of his native Lancashire. 317 00:19:44,840 --> 00:19:48,040 People call them matchsticks, matchstick figures. 318 00:19:48,040 --> 00:19:49,640 They may be. I don't mind. 319 00:19:49,640 --> 00:19:51,000 I don't think it matters, 320 00:19:51,000 --> 00:19:54,480 I paint the people as I see the people in my mind's eye. 321 00:19:55,960 --> 00:19:59,360 The people tend to be poor people. 322 00:19:59,360 --> 00:20:03,720 Does he display also a sympathy for people who are, I don't know, 323 00:20:03,720 --> 00:20:05,280 outcasts or left aside? 324 00:20:05,280 --> 00:20:09,400 He obviously saw that people worse off than himself were somehow 325 00:20:09,400 --> 00:20:13,600 rather like ants, always engaged on business, scurrying to and fro. 326 00:20:13,600 --> 00:20:16,240 All sorts of scenarios take place in his pictures 327 00:20:16,240 --> 00:20:19,480 and they are not as simple as they look. They are much more subtle, 328 00:20:19,480 --> 00:20:23,120 poetic and ultimately, I think, rather lonely. 329 00:20:24,400 --> 00:20:25,680 People often say that 330 00:20:25,680 --> 00:20:28,680 but I suppose I reflect myself in my figures - I'm bound to do. 331 00:20:28,680 --> 00:20:30,720 I'm bound to reflect myself in the figures 332 00:20:30,720 --> 00:20:32,840 and I'm a very lonely sort of a person. 333 00:20:34,240 --> 00:20:35,640 As a Salford man himself, 334 00:20:35,640 --> 00:20:38,440 with a concern for the plight of the working class, 335 00:20:38,440 --> 00:20:41,120 George Bradshaw might have empathised 336 00:20:41,120 --> 00:20:44,000 with Lowry's depiction of the city's people. 337 00:20:44,000 --> 00:20:46,440 Lowry's popularity is undeniable, isn't it? 338 00:20:46,440 --> 00:20:49,640 I first became aware of him because my grandfather managed to buy 339 00:20:49,640 --> 00:20:53,280 one or two, but his popularity has been enormous, hasn't it? 340 00:20:53,280 --> 00:20:57,200 In England, Britain, probably the most popular artist there is. 341 00:20:57,200 --> 00:21:00,400 In the wider world, less known, but he is a great artist, 342 00:21:00,400 --> 00:21:03,200 and there's no reason to plump him more than that. 343 00:21:04,680 --> 00:21:08,760 Lowry and Bradshaw, one in painting and one in words, 344 00:21:08,760 --> 00:21:11,520 recorded Britain's industrial landscape. 345 00:21:12,960 --> 00:21:17,000 And today, having read Bradshaw's vivid description of a manufacturing 346 00:21:17,000 --> 00:21:21,160 town in the 19th century, I like to hope that Lowry had read this book. 347 00:21:21,160 --> 00:21:23,440 I'm sure he did. But of course, what he did, 348 00:21:23,440 --> 00:21:25,520 he turned Bradshaw into a vision. 349 00:21:28,400 --> 00:21:32,600 It's time to hit the tracks and head for my final destination. 350 00:21:32,600 --> 00:21:35,800 I'm taking a short train ride north to Swinton, 351 00:21:35,800 --> 00:21:39,360 from which it's a ten-minute drive east to Kersal Moor. 352 00:21:44,120 --> 00:21:45,880 By the time of my guidebook, 353 00:21:45,880 --> 00:21:49,840 industrialisation had made its mark on the Lancashire landscape 354 00:21:49,840 --> 00:21:53,240 and the old pastoral ways were disappearing fast. 355 00:21:54,440 --> 00:21:58,440 The desire to preserve local identity became stronger than ever. 356 00:22:01,680 --> 00:22:05,720 Kersal Moor is a rural haven in Greater Manchester. 357 00:22:05,720 --> 00:22:09,760 It remains little changed from Bradshaw's day and I can see 358 00:22:09,760 --> 00:22:14,360 how it captured the imagination of 19th-century poet Edwin Waugh. 359 00:22:15,840 --> 00:22:19,360 I'm meeting Sid Calderbank, dialect enthusiast 360 00:22:19,360 --> 00:22:22,600 and member of the Edwin Waugh Society. 361 00:22:22,600 --> 00:22:25,800 Why should we now remember the Victorian poet Edwin Waugh? 362 00:22:25,800 --> 00:22:29,680 He was known in his lifetime as the Lancashire laureate. 363 00:22:29,680 --> 00:22:32,480 He was the prince of dialect poets. 364 00:22:32,480 --> 00:22:37,640 His works, his songs, stories and poems, spanned the whole of society. 365 00:22:37,640 --> 00:22:40,040 What sort of things was he writing about? 366 00:22:40,040 --> 00:22:42,520 He wrote about life in the mills, 367 00:22:42,520 --> 00:22:45,160 life in the factories, life in the towns. 368 00:22:45,160 --> 00:22:51,960 Born in 1817, Waugh penned poems in his native Lancashire tongue. 369 00:22:51,960 --> 00:22:55,040 He captured people's imagination at a time when 370 00:22:55,040 --> 00:22:59,480 urbanisation threatened to dilute local traditions. 371 00:22:59,480 --> 00:23:03,120 Lancashire's cotton industry had boomed in the mid-19th century, 372 00:23:03,120 --> 00:23:07,960 and its population doubled as workers from all over Britain migrated here. 373 00:23:09,720 --> 00:23:12,880 His best-known poem was written in 1856 - 374 00:23:12,880 --> 00:23:15,840 Come Whoam To Thi Childer An' Me - 375 00:23:15,840 --> 00:23:17,760 and it's a poem about a young wife 376 00:23:17,760 --> 00:23:20,520 who's at home and she's got all the housework done, 377 00:23:20,520 --> 00:23:24,000 she's got the two children off to bed but she can't settle them 378 00:23:24,000 --> 00:23:26,560 because they're crying. And she's crying too 379 00:23:26,560 --> 00:23:28,240 because he's down at the pub, 380 00:23:28,240 --> 00:23:31,840 so against all the social protocols of the time, 381 00:23:31,840 --> 00:23:35,360 she gets his hat and coat and she goes down to the pub 382 00:23:35,360 --> 00:23:39,920 to appeal, it turns out successfully, to his better nature. 383 00:23:39,920 --> 00:23:43,600 But when she gets there she finds he's not all bad after all, 384 00:23:43,600 --> 00:23:46,880 and that his pockets are filled with gifts for her and the kids 385 00:23:46,880 --> 00:23:48,400 that he's got from the market, 386 00:23:48,400 --> 00:23:52,520 and he's merely stopped off for a glass on his way back. 387 00:23:52,520 --> 00:23:54,720 So all ends happily. 388 00:23:54,720 --> 00:23:57,600 Waugh's poems were often set to music, 389 00:23:57,600 --> 00:24:02,800 and Sid has devoted the last three decades to restoring these works. 390 00:24:02,800 --> 00:24:07,120 To give me a flavour, he's arranged something rather special. 391 00:24:07,120 --> 00:24:12,480 And here we have the Red Rose String Quartet, and we can play for you... 392 00:24:12,480 --> 00:24:14,680 Hello! ..if you wish. Hello! 393 00:24:14,680 --> 00:24:18,120 And if you'd like to join in, sir, there's the words. 394 00:24:18,120 --> 00:24:20,840 Very good! Good afternoon. Hello. Hello. 395 00:24:25,680 --> 00:24:29,800 # Our Dorothy's singin' i'th shippon 396 00:24:29,800 --> 00:24:33,760 # Our Jonathan's leawngin' i'th fowd 397 00:24:33,760 --> 00:24:37,640 # Our Tummy's at th' fair, where he lippens 398 00:24:37,640 --> 00:24:41,440 # O' swappin' his cowt for gowd 399 00:24:41,440 --> 00:24:45,440 # Me gronny's asleep wi' her knittin' 400 00:24:45,440 --> 00:24:49,200 # An' th' kittlins's playin' wi' yarn 401 00:24:49,200 --> 00:24:53,360 # Our Betty's gone out wi' a gallon 402 00:24:53,360 --> 00:24:57,160 # For th' lads as in warkin' i'th barn 403 00:24:57,160 --> 00:25:00,920 BOTH: # And it's oh, yon Robin, yon Robin 404 00:25:00,920 --> 00:25:04,760 # His e'en e'er twinkle't so breet 405 00:25:04,760 --> 00:25:08,600 # As they did when he meazur't me finger 406 00:25:08,600 --> 00:25:12,280 # For th' little gowd ring last neet. # 407 00:25:16,600 --> 00:25:18,280 Bravo! 408 00:25:25,560 --> 00:25:29,520 In the 1870s, Waugh's health deteriorated. 409 00:25:29,520 --> 00:25:32,520 He moved to Kersal Moor for its fresh air 410 00:25:32,520 --> 00:25:36,160 and was buried here after his death in 1890. 411 00:25:37,600 --> 00:25:40,640 The moors were important to Waugh. 412 00:25:40,640 --> 00:25:43,200 Are they important to Lancashire people generally? 413 00:25:43,200 --> 00:25:46,160 Oh, they were important to the whole population of the county. 414 00:25:46,160 --> 00:25:48,080 They were the lungs of Lancashire. 415 00:25:48,080 --> 00:25:51,840 If you can imagine 19th-century industrial Lancashire, 416 00:25:51,840 --> 00:25:56,240 it was dirty, it was dark, it was smelly and smoky, 417 00:25:56,240 --> 00:25:59,400 but we've always been very proud of the fact that you're never 418 00:25:59,400 --> 00:26:01,400 so far from the old moorland. 419 00:26:01,400 --> 00:26:04,000 You can be a quarter of an hour from the factory gates 420 00:26:04,000 --> 00:26:06,880 and you can be up here, where you can breathe. 421 00:26:08,640 --> 00:26:13,400 Waugh clearly did much to preserve the Lancashire dialect in his time. 422 00:26:13,400 --> 00:26:18,240 Today the mantle has passed to a handful of enthusiasts like Sid. 423 00:26:18,240 --> 00:26:20,480 Can you greet me in the local dialect? 424 00:26:20,480 --> 00:26:21,800 How do? 425 00:26:21,800 --> 00:26:26,120 How do? That's simple enough! 426 00:26:26,120 --> 00:26:29,280 "How do?" It is. You don't need any more than that, really. 427 00:26:29,280 --> 00:26:30,760 It means, "How do you do?" 428 00:26:30,760 --> 00:26:34,240 "How do?" Which, when it arrived in America, it became "howdy". 429 00:26:36,160 --> 00:26:40,320 The Lancashire dialect is full of terrific tongue-twisters, 430 00:26:40,320 --> 00:26:45,040 from polite greetings - "Aw'm gradely fain to si thi" - 431 00:26:45,040 --> 00:26:49,320 to, "Be sharp! T'pig's fo'n i'th cut!" 432 00:26:49,320 --> 00:26:53,760 which means, "Hurry up, the pig's fallen in the canal." Of course. 433 00:26:53,760 --> 00:26:57,240 And what are you doing about keeping the dialect alive? 434 00:26:57,240 --> 00:26:59,360 I'm trying to make it available, 435 00:26:59,360 --> 00:27:03,520 make it relevant to today's audiences, not only to preserve it 436 00:27:03,520 --> 00:27:05,200 but to bring it back to life. 437 00:27:06,720 --> 00:27:10,160 Sid has certainly brought back to life for me today 438 00:27:10,160 --> 00:27:12,400 a piece of Victorian Lancashire. 439 00:27:12,400 --> 00:27:16,080 With my lungs filled with the finest air in the county, 440 00:27:16,080 --> 00:27:18,080 I'm ready to return to the station. 441 00:27:19,480 --> 00:27:24,080 Life was tough for working people in industrial Lancashire. 442 00:27:24,080 --> 00:27:27,800 Wage cuts caused a bloody riot in Preston. 443 00:27:27,800 --> 00:27:32,320 The region was the world's most successful manufacturing hub, 444 00:27:32,320 --> 00:27:36,240 but the cost in terms of human suffering is visible 445 00:27:36,240 --> 00:27:39,800 in the smoky streets of Lowry's paintings. 446 00:27:39,800 --> 00:27:45,000 At least mill workers could escape, through the dialect of Edwin Waugh, 447 00:27:45,000 --> 00:27:48,080 to the beautiful moors of the Red Rose county. 448 00:27:56,480 --> 00:28:00,560 Next time, I feel the heat of modern glass-making... 449 00:28:00,560 --> 00:28:04,280 I've just walked past a furnace at 1,600 degrees Celsius 450 00:28:04,280 --> 00:28:06,880 and I can tell you it burns as you go by. 451 00:28:08,120 --> 00:28:11,680 ..break into song with some not-too-drunken sailors... 452 00:28:11,680 --> 00:28:15,360 # Strike the bell, second mate, let's go below 453 00:28:15,360 --> 00:28:18,920 # Look out to windward, you can see it's going to blow... # 454 00:28:18,920 --> 00:28:22,680 ..and experience life in service to a lady of the manor. 455 00:28:22,680 --> 00:28:25,680 Will there be much more to be polished this afternoon, Mr Douglas? 456 00:28:25,680 --> 00:28:27,440 Considerably more, Mr Portillo.