1 00:00:04,160 --> 00:00:07,960 For Victorian Britons, George Bradshaw was a household name. 2 00:00:09,480 --> 00:00:11,720 At a time when railways were new, 3 00:00:11,720 --> 00:00:15,760 Bradshaw's guidebook inspired them to take to the tracks. 4 00:00:15,760 --> 00:00:17,720 I'm using a Bradshaw's Guide 5 00:00:17,720 --> 00:00:21,040 to understand how trains transformed Britain, 6 00:00:21,040 --> 00:00:25,800 its landscape, its industries, society and leisure time. 7 00:00:25,800 --> 00:00:30,360 As I crisscross the country 150 years later, 8 00:00:30,360 --> 00:00:33,360 it helps me to discover the Britain of today. 9 00:00:51,720 --> 00:00:55,840 This week, I make tracks across the North West, through areas which 10 00:00:55,840 --> 00:01:00,000 bore witness to Britain's rise as the world's leading marketplace. 11 00:01:01,160 --> 00:01:03,200 I explore the bright optimism, 12 00:01:03,200 --> 00:01:07,200 but also the dark underside of the Industrial Revolution. 13 00:01:14,200 --> 00:01:17,680 My trip started close to the Scottish border 14 00:01:17,680 --> 00:01:21,320 and took me to the heart of the beautiful Lake District, 15 00:01:21,320 --> 00:01:25,200 before heading further south through a classic northern mill town. 16 00:01:26,400 --> 00:01:30,280 From there, I'm travelling onwards to Merseyside's busy port 17 00:01:30,280 --> 00:01:33,080 and then I'll reach my final destination on the edge 18 00:01:33,080 --> 00:01:35,240 of the Peak District National Park. 19 00:01:36,560 --> 00:01:38,640 On today's leg, I venture to 20 00:01:38,640 --> 00:01:43,080 a Lancashire town built on coal and glass, 21 00:01:43,080 --> 00:01:47,680 head westwards to the docks that received the proceeds of empire 22 00:01:47,680 --> 00:01:51,280 and end up in an affluent town on the Cheshire Plain. 23 00:01:52,760 --> 00:01:56,560 At my first stop, I feel the heat of modern glass-making... 24 00:01:56,560 --> 00:02:00,840 I've just walked past a furnace and it's 1,600 degrees Celsius 25 00:02:00,840 --> 00:02:03,760 and I can tell you it burns as you're going by. 26 00:02:03,760 --> 00:02:06,960 ..break into song with some not too drunken sailors... 27 00:02:06,960 --> 00:02:12,080 ALL SING: # Strike the bell, second mate, let us go below 28 00:02:12,080 --> 00:02:15,480 # Look away to windward, you can see it's going to blow... # 29 00:02:15,480 --> 00:02:19,560 ..experience life in service to a Lady of the Manor... 30 00:02:19,560 --> 00:02:22,480 Will there be much more to be polished this afternoon, Mr Douglas? 31 00:02:22,480 --> 00:02:25,960 Considerably more, Mr Portillo. Considerably more. 32 00:02:25,960 --> 00:02:29,000 ..and discover a pioneering literary voice. 33 00:02:29,000 --> 00:02:32,720 She was the first female social novelist. 34 00:02:49,720 --> 00:02:52,280 I'm now more than halfway through my journey 35 00:02:52,280 --> 00:02:57,760 and enjoying my tour of manufacturing towns in North West England. 36 00:02:57,760 --> 00:03:01,200 My first stop today is St Helens, which Bradshaw's tells me 37 00:03:01,200 --> 00:03:05,800 "is celebrated for its manufacture of plate and crown glass, 38 00:03:05,800 --> 00:03:08,600 "got up to great perfection. 39 00:03:08,600 --> 00:03:11,080 "An hour or two spent in the inspection of these works 40 00:03:11,080 --> 00:03:14,680 "would amply repay the stranger." 41 00:03:14,680 --> 00:03:17,400 I'm hoping that an hour or two will provide me 42 00:03:17,400 --> 00:03:20,160 with a window on the Industrial Revolution. 43 00:03:23,880 --> 00:03:27,040 I am on the Wigan-to-Liverpool line travelling south. 44 00:03:30,840 --> 00:03:32,080 Thank you. Bye. 45 00:03:34,680 --> 00:03:40,160 St Helens Station features 400 square metres of locally made glass. 46 00:03:47,040 --> 00:03:49,400 I'm headed to the World Of Glass, 47 00:03:49,400 --> 00:03:53,560 a museum built around the old factory buildings of Pilkington, 48 00:03:53,560 --> 00:03:56,120 the only glass manufacturer in St Helens 49 00:03:56,120 --> 00:03:58,360 surviving from the Victorian era. 50 00:04:00,520 --> 00:04:04,360 Nowadays, the visitor enters the glass plant through 51 00:04:04,360 --> 00:04:09,680 this wonderful recreation of an old bottle kiln, 52 00:04:09,680 --> 00:04:13,280 a superb piece of industrial archaeology 53 00:04:13,280 --> 00:04:16,600 with, incidentally, an amazing echo. 54 00:04:25,360 --> 00:04:28,400 Hello, Matt. Good morning. Welcome. Welcome to the World Of Glass. 55 00:04:28,400 --> 00:04:32,360 Matt Buckley is from Pilkington's architectural division. 56 00:04:34,720 --> 00:04:36,840 So, why was it in the first place 57 00:04:36,840 --> 00:04:39,840 that glass came to be made here, in St Helens? 58 00:04:39,840 --> 00:04:41,440 Well, exactly here we had everything 59 00:04:41,440 --> 00:04:43,560 we needed that all came together at the same time. 60 00:04:43,560 --> 00:04:45,440 You'd got the coal for the power, 61 00:04:45,440 --> 00:04:48,160 you'd got the sand, which we then turned into glass, 62 00:04:48,160 --> 00:04:49,920 and we have the canal here as well 63 00:04:49,920 --> 00:04:52,000 that gave us the chance to bring raw materials 64 00:04:52,000 --> 00:04:54,360 and take the glass before we also had the railways, 65 00:04:54,360 --> 00:04:55,960 so everything came together here. 66 00:04:58,120 --> 00:04:59,680 St Helens sits on the edge 67 00:04:59,680 --> 00:05:02,720 of the plentiful South Lancashire coalfields 68 00:05:02,720 --> 00:05:06,720 and excellent transport links were built to carry the coal to market. 69 00:05:08,280 --> 00:05:11,040 That soon paved way for other businesses - 70 00:05:11,040 --> 00:05:15,600 potteries, foundries and glassworks that made crown glass by hand. 71 00:05:17,600 --> 00:05:20,480 Crown was one of the earliest types of mass-produced glass, 72 00:05:20,480 --> 00:05:24,120 so there was a blob of glass on a tube which was then spun 73 00:05:24,120 --> 00:05:27,240 to produce, with centrifugal force, a disc. 74 00:05:27,240 --> 00:05:30,480 And eventually that disc could be cut into small panes, 75 00:05:30,480 --> 00:05:33,360 but in the middle you were left with a bull's-eye or a bullion, 76 00:05:33,360 --> 00:05:36,720 and even today you'll see some people using that in their windows, 77 00:05:36,720 --> 00:05:39,680 but that was actually the poor bit of the glass that people threw away. 78 00:05:41,240 --> 00:05:44,800 A new technique for making much larger panes of glass 79 00:05:44,800 --> 00:05:46,680 was developed in the 1830s. 80 00:05:46,680 --> 00:05:49,920 Large glass cylinders were sliced open on a table, 81 00:05:49,920 --> 00:05:52,400 heated and pressed flat with a roller. 82 00:05:53,960 --> 00:05:56,560 It inspired an architectural revolution - 83 00:05:56,560 --> 00:05:58,760 the advent of grand glass roofs 84 00:05:58,760 --> 00:06:02,960 on railway stations, museums and public buildings. 85 00:06:02,960 --> 00:06:07,480 The most breathtaking example was the Crystal Palace, 86 00:06:07,480 --> 00:06:12,760 housing the Great Exhibition in London's Hyde Park in 1851. 87 00:06:14,840 --> 00:06:18,600 The building employed 300,000 sheets of glass of the largest 88 00:06:18,600 --> 00:06:21,240 size ever manufactured - 89 00:06:21,240 --> 00:06:25,720 a symbol of the United Kingdom's technical ascendancy. 90 00:06:31,600 --> 00:06:35,480 I have just walked past a furnace at 1,600 degrees Celsius 91 00:06:35,480 --> 00:06:38,320 and I can tell you it burns as you're going by. 92 00:06:40,240 --> 00:06:44,280 By 1860, three quarters of the country's window glass 93 00:06:44,280 --> 00:06:48,640 was produced in 24 furnaces, nine of them at St Helens. 94 00:06:48,640 --> 00:06:50,800 They operated around the clock. 95 00:06:50,800 --> 00:06:52,680 This is the furnace, here. 96 00:06:52,680 --> 00:06:55,160 The hot end, as it's called, 97 00:06:55,160 --> 00:06:57,480 and this is where we take in the raw materials 98 00:06:57,480 --> 00:07:00,000 and within there we are actually melting the glass. 99 00:07:00,000 --> 00:07:03,400 So, Matt, we are facing here extraordinary heat. 100 00:07:03,400 --> 00:07:04,760 Which site is this? 101 00:07:04,760 --> 00:07:06,680 This is Watson Street site. 102 00:07:06,680 --> 00:07:09,720 This is the site where we made our first crown of glass, 103 00:07:09,720 --> 00:07:13,600 14th February 1827, on this site. 104 00:07:13,600 --> 00:07:17,120 Now, what is glass and how do you make it? This is what is in here. 105 00:07:17,120 --> 00:07:18,360 This is the batch. 106 00:07:18,360 --> 00:07:22,160 This is sand and soda ash and dolomite and, really, 107 00:07:22,160 --> 00:07:26,240 we heat that to 1,600 degrees C 108 00:07:26,240 --> 00:07:29,120 and then form it through the process eventually to produce 109 00:07:29,120 --> 00:07:30,320 the glass as you know it. 110 00:07:30,320 --> 00:07:33,800 And how are you actually producing that level of heat? 111 00:07:33,800 --> 00:07:34,840 OK, we have got... 112 00:07:34,840 --> 00:07:38,000 Effectively, we were burning gas to produce the heat. 113 00:07:38,000 --> 00:07:40,400 We are actually mixing the gas, the gas and the air, 114 00:07:40,400 --> 00:07:44,680 using a similar process than we saw right back from the 1870s. 115 00:07:44,680 --> 00:07:48,080 We fire gas from this side for 20 minutes, then from the other side, 116 00:07:48,080 --> 00:07:51,400 and we effectively recycle and re-use the heat. 117 00:07:51,400 --> 00:07:54,680 I wouldn't like to see your gas bill. It is very large, yes. 118 00:07:54,680 --> 00:07:56,080 £20 million a year. 119 00:08:02,080 --> 00:08:05,960 St Helens glass-makers were part of the plate-glass revolution 120 00:08:05,960 --> 00:08:07,440 of the mid-19th century 121 00:08:07,440 --> 00:08:11,200 and they still led in glass innovation 100 years later. 122 00:08:17,120 --> 00:08:19,400 This here is a float glass plant. 123 00:08:19,400 --> 00:08:21,360 It was the float glass process 124 00:08:21,360 --> 00:08:24,320 invented by Sir Alistair Pilkington in 1952. 125 00:08:24,320 --> 00:08:27,640 And here we actually melt the sand in exactly the same way, 126 00:08:27,640 --> 00:08:30,200 but we float it on a bed of molten tin 127 00:08:30,200 --> 00:08:33,920 and that is what makes it perfectly flat without imperfections. 128 00:08:33,920 --> 00:08:37,080 So, the type of glass you see in today's buildings, 129 00:08:37,080 --> 00:08:40,880 around the world, is float glass, using the Pilkington technology. 130 00:08:40,880 --> 00:08:44,160 And this stuff is just streaming along these machines all the time? 131 00:08:44,160 --> 00:08:46,440 Yes, the glass comes down in a ribbon and is chopped 132 00:08:46,440 --> 00:08:51,760 and then packed, and this line will run for anything up to 20 years. 133 00:08:51,760 --> 00:08:55,400 So, even in one week, we can produce 5,000 tonnes of glass - 134 00:08:55,400 --> 00:08:57,320 that is half a million square metres. 135 00:08:57,320 --> 00:08:59,960 Actually, in a year, we can produce enough glass 136 00:08:59,960 --> 00:09:02,520 probably to go halfway around the world on this line. 137 00:09:02,520 --> 00:09:04,280 So, massive amounts of glass, 138 00:09:04,280 --> 00:09:07,200 almost unimaginable in terms of what architects can now do 139 00:09:07,200 --> 00:09:10,360 because of the developments in glass and glazing technology. 140 00:09:10,360 --> 00:09:12,560 I mean, just looking around, it seems to me that 141 00:09:12,560 --> 00:09:15,640 if there was a revolution in architecture thanks to glass 142 00:09:15,640 --> 00:09:19,240 in Bradshaw's time, we have had another one in the last few decades. 143 00:09:19,240 --> 00:09:20,440 Absolutely. 144 00:09:34,080 --> 00:09:38,240 I'm back on the tracks that were the artery of St Helens' economy, 145 00:09:38,240 --> 00:09:42,640 linking it to the prosperous docks of Liverpool, my next destination. 146 00:09:49,800 --> 00:09:54,080 By the 19th century, Liverpool had overtaken Bristol as Britain's 147 00:09:54,080 --> 00:09:56,720 second most important port after London, 148 00:09:56,720 --> 00:10:01,200 thanks to its proximity to the industrial powerhouse of Manchester. 149 00:10:02,720 --> 00:10:06,320 And its railway station was perhaps designed to emphasise 150 00:10:06,320 --> 00:10:08,360 this new-found status. 151 00:10:17,960 --> 00:10:21,360 Liverpool Lime Street station is a perfect example 152 00:10:21,360 --> 00:10:24,520 of how glass transformed British cities. 153 00:10:24,520 --> 00:10:28,120 The northern canopy has a span of 200 feet 154 00:10:28,120 --> 00:10:31,040 and, when it was built, around the time of my Bradshaw's Guide, 155 00:10:31,040 --> 00:10:33,160 it was the broadest that had ever been built 156 00:10:33,160 --> 00:10:37,000 and Victorian travellers looked up at it in awe. 157 00:10:44,920 --> 00:10:48,080 Modern-day Liverpool stands in stark contrast 158 00:10:48,080 --> 00:10:50,000 to the city of the mid-1800s. 159 00:10:52,120 --> 00:10:55,720 The port was a gritty and chaotic place, but its system 160 00:10:55,720 --> 00:11:00,240 of interconnected docks was the most sophisticated in the world. 161 00:11:00,240 --> 00:11:03,680 It played a vital role in the world's largest economy, 162 00:11:03,680 --> 00:11:06,600 receiving materials from the British colonies 163 00:11:06,600 --> 00:11:09,960 and shipping out British manufactured goods. 164 00:11:11,600 --> 00:11:14,400 The docks in Liverpool, says Bradshaw's, 165 00:11:14,400 --> 00:11:16,520 are the grand lions of the town, 166 00:11:16,520 --> 00:11:23,400 extending in one magnificent range of five miles along the river. 167 00:11:23,400 --> 00:11:24,960 Being a child of the 1960s, 168 00:11:24,960 --> 00:11:31,000 I remember that the Beatles exported the Liverpool beat to the globe 169 00:11:31,000 --> 00:11:33,560 but it turns out that, decades before that, 170 00:11:33,560 --> 00:11:37,880 a Mersey sound was flowing out to the world. 171 00:11:40,240 --> 00:11:42,840 SEA SHANTY 172 00:11:52,280 --> 00:11:56,000 The docks were swarming with tradesmen, stevedores and sailors 173 00:11:56,000 --> 00:12:00,200 from all over the world, who used song to set the rhythms 174 00:12:00,200 --> 00:12:03,760 for hauling ropes and heaving cargoes. 175 00:12:03,760 --> 00:12:07,560 They worked here at the Albert docks, where I am meeting a Liverpool girl, 176 00:12:07,560 --> 00:12:11,520 Julia Batters, a sea shanty enthusiast. 177 00:12:11,520 --> 00:12:14,040 SEA SHANTY 178 00:12:31,000 --> 00:12:34,400 Julia, what are sea shanties? Where do they come from? 179 00:12:34,400 --> 00:12:38,200 Sea shanties are work songs. 180 00:12:38,200 --> 00:12:44,440 The were sung on British merchant ships to enhance 181 00:12:44,440 --> 00:12:46,520 the efficiency of the crew. 182 00:12:46,520 --> 00:12:48,840 Those ships needed to travel fast, 183 00:12:48,840 --> 00:12:52,440 have smaller crews than were on the Royal Navy ships, 184 00:12:52,440 --> 00:12:55,520 and so they were rhythmic tunes 185 00:12:55,520 --> 00:12:59,800 sung to keep people making a physical effort. 186 00:12:59,800 --> 00:13:03,440 British sea shanties have travelled around the world 187 00:13:03,440 --> 00:13:05,520 and back again several times. 188 00:13:05,520 --> 00:13:10,040 You can hear them translated into Norwegian, into Dutch, 189 00:13:10,040 --> 00:13:12,400 actually into Polish. 190 00:13:12,400 --> 00:13:15,320 Some of them were adapted to singing on the rivers and 191 00:13:15,320 --> 00:13:18,000 the Great Lakes in the States. 192 00:13:18,000 --> 00:13:20,520 It encapsulates so much of the history 193 00:13:20,520 --> 00:13:24,200 of what made the UK great and of English working people. 194 00:13:24,200 --> 00:13:27,600 And this is an important heritage to preserve. 195 00:13:27,600 --> 00:13:29,640 What are you doing to keep it up? 196 00:13:29,640 --> 00:13:31,440 We have started a club. 197 00:13:31,440 --> 00:13:36,320 Every month we sing sea shanties in the Baltic Fleet pub, 198 00:13:36,320 --> 00:13:40,400 which is one of the last Sailortown pubs left in Liverpool. 199 00:13:40,400 --> 00:13:43,480 Liverpool is regarded internationally 200 00:13:43,480 --> 00:13:45,960 as the spiritual home of the sea shanty, 201 00:13:45,960 --> 00:13:49,440 so we are bringing the music back here where it should be sung. 202 00:13:49,440 --> 00:13:52,720 MAN SINGS STRIKE THE BELL 203 00:14:01,600 --> 00:14:04,760 A quick wetting of the whistle and I'm ready to join in. 204 00:14:07,120 --> 00:14:10,400 ALL SINGING: # Look out to windward you can see it's going to blow 205 00:14:10,400 --> 00:14:14,800 # Look at the glass you can see that it is fell 206 00:14:14,800 --> 00:14:18,720 # We wish that he would hurry up and strike, strike the bell... # 207 00:14:22,560 --> 00:14:26,120 Julia's husband is shantyman Derek Batters. 208 00:14:27,360 --> 00:14:31,480 # There is the larboard watch, they're longing for their bunks 209 00:14:31,480 --> 00:14:35,200 # They're looking out to windward they can see a great swell 210 00:14:35,200 --> 00:14:37,280 # They're wishing that the second mate 211 00:14:37,280 --> 00:14:39,520 # Would strike, strike the bell... # 212 00:14:39,520 --> 00:14:44,280 The shantyman had the important task of keeping up morale on deck 213 00:14:44,280 --> 00:14:48,040 and he would vary the song to match the task at hand. 214 00:14:48,040 --> 00:14:51,720 # Look at the glass you can see that it's fell 215 00:14:51,720 --> 00:14:56,240 # We wish that you would hurry up and strike, strike the bell... # 216 00:14:56,240 --> 00:15:00,400 There were short drag shanties for jobs needing quick bursts of energy 217 00:15:00,400 --> 00:15:04,680 and long drag shanties, which gave sailors a rest between hauls. 218 00:15:04,680 --> 00:15:07,400 Derek is singing a pump shanty, 219 00:15:07,400 --> 00:15:11,480 used when pumping the bilges of the ship to prevent it from sinking. 220 00:15:11,480 --> 00:15:16,120 # And he's wishing that the second mate would strike, strike the bell 221 00:15:16,120 --> 00:15:20,080 # Strike the bell, second mate, let's go below... # 222 00:15:20,080 --> 00:15:24,920 But pump shanties also work rather well for swilling pints to - 223 00:15:24,920 --> 00:15:26,880 an excellent way to end my day. 224 00:15:26,880 --> 00:15:28,120 # See that it's fell 225 00:15:28,120 --> 00:15:32,280 # We wish that you would hurry up and strike, strike the bell 226 00:15:32,280 --> 00:15:36,720 # Strike the bell, second mate, let's go below 227 00:15:36,720 --> 00:15:40,840 # Look out to windward, you can see it going to blow 228 00:15:40,840 --> 00:15:44,320 # Look at the glass, you can see that it's fell 229 00:15:44,320 --> 00:15:52,920 # And I wish that you would hurry up and strike, strike the bell! # 230 00:15:52,920 --> 00:15:54,240 Bravo! 231 00:15:54,240 --> 00:15:56,560 CHEERING 232 00:16:07,840 --> 00:16:09,760 Today, I'm continuing my journey, 233 00:16:09,760 --> 00:16:13,120 travelling south-west on the Wirral line towards Chester. 234 00:16:14,800 --> 00:16:17,400 Chester was a welcome break for Victorians 235 00:16:17,400 --> 00:16:21,000 from the grime and frantic pace of the industrial cities. 236 00:16:22,440 --> 00:16:26,280 But I'm not stopping. I'm changing to the mid-Cheshire line. 237 00:16:43,920 --> 00:16:48,000 I've travelled from salty Liverpool to leafy Cheshire. 238 00:16:48,000 --> 00:16:49,440 Bradshaw's tells me that, 239 00:16:49,440 --> 00:16:52,120 over a distance of two-and-three-quarter miles, 240 00:16:52,120 --> 00:16:54,720 almost from Ashley to Knutsford, 241 00:16:54,720 --> 00:16:58,680 stretches the fine park belonging to Lord Egerton. 242 00:16:58,680 --> 00:17:02,240 At one time, it was 250,000 acres. 243 00:17:02,240 --> 00:17:05,560 I shall get off the train at Knutsford. It seems to me that 244 00:17:05,560 --> 00:17:09,240 Tatton Hall could be a good place to explore Victorian life, 245 00:17:09,240 --> 00:17:12,360 both upstairs and downstairs. 246 00:17:19,560 --> 00:17:21,320 Have a good day. Thank you very much. 247 00:17:21,320 --> 00:17:24,760 A couple of miles from Knutsford station lies an imposing 248 00:17:24,760 --> 00:17:26,920 neoclassical country house. 249 00:17:26,920 --> 00:17:31,000 The Egertons were highly regarded members of the aristocracy. 250 00:17:33,040 --> 00:17:36,840 This was the part of society least touched by the upheavals 251 00:17:36,840 --> 00:17:38,000 of the 19th century. 252 00:17:39,520 --> 00:17:44,200 The aristocracy may have dabbled in industrial investments, or banking, 253 00:17:44,200 --> 00:17:48,120 but they exercised hereditary power in Westminster, 254 00:17:48,120 --> 00:17:49,920 the army and the Empire. 255 00:17:51,160 --> 00:17:54,960 Their large country houses relied on highly skilled servants 256 00:17:54,960 --> 00:17:58,960 and Carolyn Latham, from the Cheshire East Council, 257 00:17:58,960 --> 00:18:03,480 knows all about life downstairs working for the Egertons. 258 00:18:03,480 --> 00:18:06,600 Carolyn, an enormous establishment like Tatton Park, 259 00:18:06,600 --> 00:18:08,880 how many staff did it take to run? 260 00:18:08,880 --> 00:18:12,520 Over the years, somewhere between perhaps 40 and 20 was quite typical. 261 00:18:12,520 --> 00:18:15,920 How many best guest rooms are there in Tatton Park? 262 00:18:15,920 --> 00:18:20,040 This main block of the mansion has eight guest bedrooms, 263 00:18:20,040 --> 00:18:22,560 all with ensuite dressing rooms. 264 00:18:22,560 --> 00:18:26,320 The middle section of the mansion here is the family's more intimate, 265 00:18:26,320 --> 00:18:29,280 personal, smaller apartments, 266 00:18:29,280 --> 00:18:33,200 but about eight good guests could be situated within the household. 267 00:18:36,720 --> 00:18:41,800 An invitation to an Egerton house party was much sought-after. 268 00:18:41,800 --> 00:18:45,720 On these hectic occasions, the servants moved smartly up 269 00:18:45,720 --> 00:18:49,840 and downstairs to attend to the needs of master and mistress. 270 00:18:53,400 --> 00:18:55,600 Well, the kitchens are very large, 271 00:18:55,600 --> 00:19:00,520 although notably lacking in modern conveniences and machinery. 272 00:19:00,520 --> 00:19:03,400 Let's start with the people who were here. 273 00:19:03,400 --> 00:19:05,200 What were the butler's duties? 274 00:19:05,200 --> 00:19:09,040 So, the butler is...his main duties are around making sure that 275 00:19:09,040 --> 00:19:11,040 household's running smoothly, 276 00:19:11,040 --> 00:19:13,560 so he's looking after the male servants, 277 00:19:13,560 --> 00:19:16,760 the grooms, the footmen, he's making sure that all the male 278 00:19:16,760 --> 00:19:19,720 servants are all in the right places at the right time. 279 00:19:19,720 --> 00:19:23,160 That the dinner's served on time, the drinks are served on time. 280 00:19:23,160 --> 00:19:25,120 You know, he waits on as well. 281 00:19:25,120 --> 00:19:27,720 He's there when the master of the household is around - 282 00:19:27,720 --> 00:19:29,960 the butler wouldn't be far away from him. 283 00:19:29,960 --> 00:19:32,880 Domestic service was Victorian Britain's 284 00:19:32,880 --> 00:19:36,280 largest source of employment for women. 285 00:19:36,280 --> 00:19:39,960 At Tatton Hall, the butler, the housekeeper and the chef 286 00:19:39,960 --> 00:19:44,520 were at the top of the pecking order, while a housemaid was at the bottom. 287 00:19:44,520 --> 00:19:49,320 What was life like for the most humble housemaid? 288 00:19:49,320 --> 00:19:51,600 Well, quite long and hard I would think. 289 00:19:51,600 --> 00:19:53,960 They were up early, they're the first up, 290 00:19:53,960 --> 00:19:56,640 maybe half five, six o'clock in the morning. 291 00:19:56,640 --> 00:19:59,600 They're getting the fireplaces ready for the other servants, 292 00:19:59,600 --> 00:20:02,840 the higher up servants as well as for the household. 293 00:20:02,840 --> 00:20:08,200 Serving breakfast trays, cleaning bedrooms, emptying bedpans. 294 00:20:08,200 --> 00:20:11,600 The housekeeper would have made sure their time was really full 295 00:20:11,600 --> 00:20:13,040 and accounted for. 296 00:20:13,040 --> 00:20:15,120 They would have their set break times, 297 00:20:15,120 --> 00:20:17,040 but also those lowest housemaids 298 00:20:17,040 --> 00:20:20,480 and scullery maids, you know, there was a hierarchy within even 299 00:20:20,480 --> 00:20:23,800 the servants eating, so they sat at the end. 300 00:20:23,800 --> 00:20:26,680 They didn't really get to have the conversations 301 00:20:26,680 --> 00:20:30,120 that the others were having, so their whole day was very structured 302 00:20:30,120 --> 00:20:33,200 and they'd have gone to bed really quite late as well. 303 00:20:37,240 --> 00:20:40,800 I'm travelling back in time, to the heyday of Tatton Hall, 304 00:20:40,800 --> 00:20:44,360 to put my skills to the test as an under-butler, 305 00:20:44,360 --> 00:20:48,520 eager to make a good impression on my rather stern superiors. 306 00:20:50,520 --> 00:20:53,680 Will there be much more to be polished this afternoon, Mr Douglas? 307 00:20:53,680 --> 00:20:57,520 Considerably more, Mr Portillo. Considerably more. 308 00:20:57,520 --> 00:21:01,640 I think a little bit more elbow grease is required. 309 00:21:01,640 --> 00:21:04,720 Ah, I can see you set very high standards, Mrs Cartwright, 310 00:21:04,720 --> 00:21:07,760 here at Tatton Park. Indeed, we do. 311 00:21:07,760 --> 00:21:14,160 What we require, Mr Portillo, is 20% polish and 80% elbow grease. 312 00:21:14,160 --> 00:21:18,040 What time would her ladyship be requiring her tea, Mr Douglas? 313 00:21:18,040 --> 00:21:20,400 I think I'm correct in saying, Mrs Cartwright, 314 00:21:20,400 --> 00:21:24,440 her ladyship requested tea at four? Four o'clock, yes, on the dot. 315 00:21:24,440 --> 00:21:27,920 Four o'clock, Mr Portillo. On the dot, Mr Douglas. 316 00:21:27,920 --> 00:21:30,480 How's it going now? 317 00:21:30,480 --> 00:21:33,440 A vast improvement, yes. 318 00:21:33,440 --> 00:21:35,160 Can you see your face in them? 319 00:21:37,200 --> 00:21:39,600 Unfortunately, I can, Mrs Cartwright. 320 00:22:04,440 --> 00:22:05,920 Tea, Lady Egerton. 321 00:22:14,800 --> 00:22:17,920 Shall I pour, Lady Egerton? No, I shall pour. 322 00:22:17,920 --> 00:22:19,360 Yes, your ladyship. 323 00:22:24,520 --> 00:22:27,240 Mr Portillo, a word, if I may. 324 00:22:27,240 --> 00:22:30,880 Your shoes, your socks, your trousers. 325 00:22:30,880 --> 00:22:32,840 Something amiss, Mr Douglas? 326 00:22:32,840 --> 00:22:35,600 One can only assume that your previous employer set 327 00:22:35,600 --> 00:22:37,640 a certain lower standard. 328 00:22:44,080 --> 00:22:47,080 It's just as well that I have other career options. 329 00:22:48,480 --> 00:22:53,960 In the mid-1800s, a factory job might have tempted a domestic servant 330 00:22:53,960 --> 00:22:57,360 tired of responding to the master's summoning bell. 331 00:22:58,600 --> 00:23:01,000 A job in the city offered privacy 332 00:23:01,000 --> 00:23:03,320 and freedom at the end of the working day... 333 00:23:04,440 --> 00:23:07,680 ..but urban and factory life often shocked the new 334 00:23:07,680 --> 00:23:10,040 worker from the countryside 335 00:23:10,040 --> 00:23:12,800 and it appalled many in the middle classes, who read about it 336 00:23:12,800 --> 00:23:17,880 for the first time in the novels of a pioneering female author. 337 00:23:18,960 --> 00:23:23,840 I'm back in Knutsford to explore the life of Elizabeth Gaskell 338 00:23:23,840 --> 00:23:28,240 in conversation with Diana Stenson from the local heritage centre. 339 00:23:29,760 --> 00:23:32,520 Diana, what is this rather extraordinary structure? 340 00:23:32,520 --> 00:23:34,120 This is the Gaskell Tower 341 00:23:34,120 --> 00:23:37,720 and it is the only commemoration that we have officially 342 00:23:37,720 --> 00:23:40,800 in the town to commemorate our most famous daughter. 343 00:23:40,800 --> 00:23:43,240 So, is she quite highly regarded in Knutsford? 344 00:23:43,240 --> 00:23:44,720 She was very highly regarded. 345 00:23:44,720 --> 00:23:47,040 She was liked very much as a child when she lived here 346 00:23:47,040 --> 00:23:49,840 and, of course, when she went on to have this successful career 347 00:23:49,840 --> 00:23:51,760 and all the things that she wrote, 348 00:23:51,760 --> 00:23:54,520 some of them had enormous social consequences. 349 00:23:54,520 --> 00:23:58,240 She was very highly regarded and the family were very regarded as well. 350 00:23:58,240 --> 00:24:01,000 And what do you think was Elizabeth Gaskell's legacy? 351 00:24:01,000 --> 00:24:06,520 That she was the first female social novelist of serious matters. 352 00:24:06,520 --> 00:24:08,440 A sort of female Dickens? 353 00:24:08,440 --> 00:24:11,800 Very much so, and they were good friends. 354 00:24:11,800 --> 00:24:16,120 Elizabeth Gaskell's Cranford was first published as a serial 355 00:24:16,120 --> 00:24:20,640 in Charles Dickens' journal, Household Words, in 1851. 356 00:24:20,640 --> 00:24:24,800 It's her most famous book, a collection of comic sketches 357 00:24:24,800 --> 00:24:28,840 which affectionately portray changing small-town customs. 358 00:24:30,360 --> 00:24:33,320 Gaskell drew on her own experience of a happy 359 00:24:33,320 --> 00:24:36,560 childhood in Knutsford, where she was raised by her aunt. 360 00:24:40,440 --> 00:24:44,960 Cranford is famously set in and about Knutsford. 361 00:24:44,960 --> 00:24:47,640 Is that very clear in the novel? 362 00:24:47,640 --> 00:24:50,520 I think anybody that lived around here would have recognised 363 00:24:50,520 --> 00:24:55,320 Knutsford as this lovely little cosy country market town 364 00:24:55,320 --> 00:24:58,440 but quite a distance, as it would seem in those days, to the 365 00:24:58,440 --> 00:25:02,480 huge industrial belching chimneys that we had in Manchester. 366 00:25:02,480 --> 00:25:05,000 The railway comes to Knutsford in 1862, 367 00:25:05,000 --> 00:25:07,240 long after Cranford is published. 368 00:25:07,240 --> 00:25:09,960 Do the railways get a look in in the Gaskell novels? 369 00:25:09,960 --> 00:25:13,800 They do. She wrote one particular short story called Lady Ludlow 370 00:25:13,800 --> 00:25:17,000 and it was heralding the arrival, or the building, 371 00:25:17,000 --> 00:25:18,680 of the railways in this area. 372 00:25:18,680 --> 00:25:20,640 And the railway was all happening 373 00:25:20,640 --> 00:25:24,520 and, blow me, Lady Ludlow decided, virtually at the last minute 374 00:25:24,520 --> 00:25:26,480 when they're about to build a bend, 375 00:25:26,480 --> 00:25:30,440 "I'm not selling you the land after all." So, it all fell apart. 376 00:25:30,440 --> 00:25:33,000 And what was her attitude to the railways? 377 00:25:33,000 --> 00:25:35,960 She had a feeling of the mood of the railways 378 00:25:35,960 --> 00:25:39,280 because here we're sitting in an agricultural area, railway's coming, 379 00:25:39,280 --> 00:25:41,960 then the railways are arriving and it speeded everything up. 380 00:25:41,960 --> 00:25:44,800 People thought in a different way with the railway. 381 00:25:44,800 --> 00:25:46,720 And so we would have our seasons here, 382 00:25:46,720 --> 00:25:49,280 which was what dictated what went on on the farms, 383 00:25:49,280 --> 00:25:51,320 and then the railways were speeding up 384 00:25:51,320 --> 00:25:54,280 and it seemed to alter people's perception of time. 385 00:25:55,840 --> 00:25:58,200 Young Elizabeth moved to Manchester when 386 00:25:58,200 --> 00:26:02,000 she married William Gaskell in 1832. 387 00:26:02,000 --> 00:26:06,200 The city opened her eyes to the plight of the urban working classes, 388 00:26:06,200 --> 00:26:09,800 inspiring her to write her first book - Mary Barton. 389 00:26:11,960 --> 00:26:16,360 She was the first person to write what you would call social novels. 390 00:26:17,360 --> 00:26:21,800 She touched on and exposed a great deal of the disgraceful things that 391 00:26:21,800 --> 00:26:25,200 were going on towards the workers in the Industrial Revolution. 392 00:26:25,200 --> 00:26:27,720 There were hundreds of workers coming in, nay, thousands, 393 00:26:27,720 --> 00:26:30,640 from agricultural land, from all over the North West, 394 00:26:30,640 --> 00:26:32,800 coming in to work in the East Midlands, 395 00:26:32,800 --> 00:26:36,280 having no idea that they'd be living in disgraceful cellars. 396 00:26:36,280 --> 00:26:40,440 They had no... There was no sort of sewage, there was nothing. 397 00:26:40,440 --> 00:26:43,880 It was dreadful and she exposed all that. 398 00:26:43,880 --> 00:26:47,000 She had a lot of trouble, socially, because she was ostracised over 399 00:26:47,000 --> 00:26:52,880 a lot of these things, but she stuck to it and we owe her a huge debt 400 00:26:52,880 --> 00:26:54,480 in telling us what was going on. 401 00:26:54,480 --> 00:26:57,360 People who only lived a mile or two away had no idea. 402 00:27:00,920 --> 00:27:04,840 Elizabeth Gaskell's books were a counterpoint to the optimism 403 00:27:04,840 --> 00:27:08,800 that the Victorian public had experienced at the Great Exhibition. 404 00:27:09,840 --> 00:27:13,440 She reminds us that Britain's prosperous position 405 00:27:13,440 --> 00:27:16,920 as the workshop of the world carried a human cost. 406 00:27:16,920 --> 00:27:19,960 Her work is a valuable window on the grimmer 407 00:27:19,960 --> 00:27:22,400 realities of the Industrial Revolution. 408 00:27:27,040 --> 00:27:31,440 The thing that most determined Victorian architecture was glass 409 00:27:31,440 --> 00:27:35,960 from St Helens and no industry made greater use of it than 410 00:27:35,960 --> 00:27:39,480 the railways with their stunning stations. 411 00:27:39,480 --> 00:27:43,400 Elizabeth Gaskell perceived that the trains were changing not only 412 00:27:43,400 --> 00:27:48,080 the rural landscape but also the country way of life. 413 00:27:48,080 --> 00:27:51,320 Although, at Tatton Park, rigid social structures endured. 414 00:27:52,480 --> 00:27:55,600 As for my performance as an under-butler, I think I would have 415 00:27:55,600 --> 00:28:00,040 been given, in the words of the sea shanty, the heave-ho. 416 00:28:01,920 --> 00:28:04,760 'Next time, I'm blown away by beauty...' 417 00:28:05,920 --> 00:28:09,880 We just soared over the valley, absolutely beautiful. 418 00:28:09,880 --> 00:28:12,840 '..I work up a sweat, the Victorian way...' 419 00:28:14,520 --> 00:28:18,920 Stoking up the fire, giving the locomotive a bit of oomph. 420 00:28:18,920 --> 00:28:20,920 Builds good biceps, that. 421 00:28:20,920 --> 00:28:24,360 '..and experience the ride of my life.' 422 00:28:24,360 --> 00:28:27,880 THEY SCREAM