1 00:00:04,840 --> 00:00:09,680 For Victorian Britons, George Bradshaw was a household name. 2 00:00:09,680 --> 00:00:11,520 At a time when railways were new, 3 00:00:11,520 --> 00:00:15,720 Bradshaw's guidebook inspired them to take to the tracks. 4 00:00:15,720 --> 00:00:17,720 I'm using a Bradshaw's Guide 5 00:00:17,720 --> 00:00:21,000 to understand how trains transformed Britain - 6 00:00:21,000 --> 00:00:26,600 its landscape, its industry, society and leisure time. 7 00:00:26,600 --> 00:00:30,160 As I crisscross the country 150 years later, 8 00:00:30,160 --> 00:00:33,880 it helps me to discover the Britain of today. 9 00:00:51,800 --> 00:00:56,560 The southern shores of Britain inspired creative Victorians. 10 00:00:56,560 --> 00:00:58,880 On today's journey, I want to find out how, 11 00:00:58,880 --> 00:01:03,720 during a period of great social change, works of art, literature 12 00:01:03,720 --> 00:01:09,760 and design helped to transform, improve and even save lives. 13 00:01:13,560 --> 00:01:15,480 With my Bradshaw's Guide in hand, 14 00:01:15,480 --> 00:01:18,680 I'm travelling the length of England's south coast. 15 00:01:18,680 --> 00:01:22,600 I began in the east, taking in forts and resorts. 16 00:01:22,600 --> 00:01:25,520 I'll pass through the literary landscape of the West Country 17 00:01:25,520 --> 00:01:29,760 before concluding at the most south-westerly tip of England. 18 00:01:32,320 --> 00:01:35,880 Today, my journey begins by the sea in Lymington. 19 00:01:35,880 --> 00:01:40,360 Travelling inland to the town of Dorchester, I pass through Axminster, 20 00:01:40,360 --> 00:01:44,120 before concluding my journey back on the coast in Exmouth. 21 00:01:46,040 --> 00:01:50,640 'Today, I investigate the ins and outs of carpets...' 22 00:01:50,640 --> 00:01:52,520 This is how you weave. 23 00:01:52,520 --> 00:01:54,480 MACHINERY GRINDS 24 00:01:58,640 --> 00:02:02,520 '..discover the little-known railway verse of Thomas Hardy...' 25 00:02:02,520 --> 00:02:04,360 "And the wheels moved on. 26 00:02:04,360 --> 00:02:08,160 "Oh could it but be that I had alighted there." 27 00:02:08,160 --> 00:02:10,280 He missed his chance. He did indeed. 28 00:02:10,280 --> 00:02:13,440 '..and brush up on a forgotten artist.' 29 00:02:13,440 --> 00:02:15,480 You're doing a grand job, Michael. 30 00:02:15,480 --> 00:02:17,880 I think, um, Danby would be proud of you. 31 00:02:17,880 --> 00:02:20,080 You old flatterer! LAUGHTER 32 00:02:26,280 --> 00:02:28,760 My first stop will be Lymington. 33 00:02:28,760 --> 00:02:32,680 Bradshaw's tells me that it's a "prettily situated town, whose 34 00:02:32,680 --> 00:02:37,800 "maritime operations are chiefly confined to the Isle of Wight." 35 00:02:37,800 --> 00:02:42,880 Intriguingly, in 1901, there was a plan to build a train tunnel 36 00:02:42,880 --> 00:02:45,440 from Lymington to the island. 37 00:02:45,440 --> 00:02:49,680 For me, that is one of the great railway might-have-beens. 38 00:02:49,680 --> 00:02:53,560 As it is, tourists have been left to cross the brine, 39 00:02:53,560 --> 00:02:56,960 with all its charms and perils. 40 00:03:01,760 --> 00:03:06,000 With no tunnel, the pretty Georgian market town of Lymington has been 41 00:03:06,000 --> 00:03:10,280 connected to the Isle of Wight by ferry since the mid-19th century. 42 00:03:11,960 --> 00:03:17,560 Located at the western end of the Solent, sailing defines Lymington. 43 00:03:17,560 --> 00:03:21,000 There have been boatyards here since medieval times 44 00:03:21,000 --> 00:03:24,080 and it's famous for yacht building and racing. 45 00:03:26,760 --> 00:03:28,600 With such a watery heritage, 46 00:03:28,600 --> 00:03:31,760 it's appropriate that I'm arriving on a wet day. 47 00:03:34,960 --> 00:03:37,320 Heading to the Berthon Boat Company, 48 00:03:37,320 --> 00:03:41,680 which builds lifeboats and began in Bradshaw's day. 49 00:03:41,680 --> 00:03:43,800 It's run by Brian May. 50 00:03:45,880 --> 00:03:49,160 Hello, Brian? Good morning, Michael. What have we here? 51 00:03:49,160 --> 00:03:51,600 We have a genuine original 52 00:03:51,600 --> 00:03:55,280 19th-century Berthon collapsible boat. 53 00:03:55,280 --> 00:03:58,560 And I'd like you to help me build it. Let's go. 54 00:03:58,560 --> 00:04:00,400 What an intriguing object. 55 00:04:02,280 --> 00:04:05,200 'The Berthon collapsible boat was invented by 56 00:04:05,200 --> 00:04:07,440 'the Reverend EL Berthon.' 57 00:04:09,320 --> 00:04:13,360 'He was Vicar of Romsey from 1860-1892 58 00:04:13,360 --> 00:04:18,080 'and displayed a keen interest in mechanical science.' 59 00:04:18,080 --> 00:04:20,040 Wow, this is quick to do, isn't it? 60 00:04:20,040 --> 00:04:25,920 It is. It was designed to be a very quick object to put together, 61 00:04:25,920 --> 00:04:31,120 so that the users could either use them for safety on board ships, 62 00:04:31,120 --> 00:04:36,880 or for deployment in exploratory expeditions. 63 00:04:36,880 --> 00:04:40,240 We've locked the seat in with that pin! 64 00:04:40,240 --> 00:04:44,720 'Even as a novice, I could assemble it in just two minutes.' 65 00:04:44,720 --> 00:04:47,160 And these could be used as a mast, 66 00:04:47,160 --> 00:04:49,360 so some of them would be used for sailing, 67 00:04:49,360 --> 00:04:53,560 Otherwise you would get in and row the boat with your passengers. 68 00:04:57,120 --> 00:04:59,040 All set! Brian, come and join me. 69 00:05:01,560 --> 00:05:03,680 At the beginning of the 19th century, 70 00:05:03,680 --> 00:05:07,200 what was the legislation regarding lifeboats on ships? 71 00:05:07,200 --> 00:05:09,040 There was none, literally. 72 00:05:09,040 --> 00:05:13,560 Um, the SS Orion in 1850 was what started it all. 73 00:05:13,560 --> 00:05:17,640 She was a packet boat that went between Liverpool and Glasgow 74 00:05:17,640 --> 00:05:20,920 and she foundered and the Reverend Clark, 75 00:05:20,920 --> 00:05:24,200 who was a friend of the Reverend Berthon, was on board 76 00:05:24,200 --> 00:05:27,480 and he was one of the very few to escape with his life. 77 00:05:27,480 --> 00:05:30,560 And he then went to visit the Reverend Berthon and said, 78 00:05:30,560 --> 00:05:34,080 "You must, with your inventive mind, be able to do something about this," 79 00:05:34,080 --> 00:05:37,080 so he set about inventing this boat. 80 00:05:37,080 --> 00:05:40,360 Obviously, you could pack a lot of these onto a ship. 81 00:05:40,360 --> 00:05:42,880 How does it work? What are the sides made of? 82 00:05:42,880 --> 00:05:47,280 The sides are made of flax, a canvas, double skinned. 83 00:05:47,280 --> 00:05:53,160 And he came up with a turpentine, linseed and soap mixture 84 00:05:53,160 --> 00:05:57,920 to make it waterproof and, because the canvas was so well protected, 85 00:05:57,920 --> 00:06:00,640 it was sold as "for use in all weather", 86 00:06:00,640 --> 00:06:04,560 whether it was 40 or 50 degrees outside, or minus 40 or 50. 87 00:06:04,560 --> 00:06:06,600 'This ingenious craft was 88 00:06:06,600 --> 00:06:11,760 'demonstrated to Queen Victoria at the Great Exhibition of 1851.' 89 00:06:13,040 --> 00:06:16,120 However, before it was used as a lifeboat, 90 00:06:16,120 --> 00:06:19,160 other applications presented themselves. 91 00:06:19,160 --> 00:06:24,040 During the Crimean and Boer wars, the military appreciated a light, 92 00:06:24,040 --> 00:06:29,760 collapsible vessel, which could be hauled into remote environments. 93 00:06:29,760 --> 00:06:34,640 It took a catastrophe for its value as a lifeboat to become evident. 94 00:06:36,560 --> 00:06:38,160 Now, one of the most infamous cases, 95 00:06:38,160 --> 00:06:39,960 where there were not enough lifeboats, 96 00:06:39,960 --> 00:06:42,360 was the sinking of the Titanic in 1912. 97 00:06:42,360 --> 00:06:43,960 Were there Berthon boats on board? 98 00:06:43,960 --> 00:06:47,560 No, they did have a competitor's boats on, 99 00:06:47,560 --> 00:06:51,440 that took about 20-25 people, but the sad thing was, 100 00:06:51,440 --> 00:06:55,200 they could only cater for a third of the maximum capacity. 101 00:06:55,200 --> 00:06:58,240 On the first voyage, there was two thirds capacity, 102 00:06:58,240 --> 00:07:01,560 so they only had enough lifeboats for half the people, 103 00:07:01,560 --> 00:07:03,600 which is why so many people died. 104 00:07:03,600 --> 00:07:06,440 When the Titanic sister ship, the Olympic, 105 00:07:06,440 --> 00:07:11,560 came into port a week later, there was a furore, so 24 boats 106 00:07:11,560 --> 00:07:15,320 immediately were put on board - Berthon boats - for the hands, 107 00:07:15,320 --> 00:07:19,360 cos the deckhands wouldn't go to sea without sufficient boats. 108 00:07:19,360 --> 00:07:21,160 But shortly afterwards, 109 00:07:21,160 --> 00:07:24,960 another 300 were placed on board for the passengers. 110 00:07:24,960 --> 00:07:31,560 Essentially, it took 62 years to achieve its status as a lifeboat. 111 00:07:31,560 --> 00:07:35,400 In the meantime, it had been used for theatres of war and exploring. 112 00:07:36,520 --> 00:07:41,360 'Thousands were made for lifeboat use up to the 1930s. 113 00:07:41,360 --> 00:07:43,680 'As lighter materials were developed, 114 00:07:43,680 --> 00:07:47,280 'collapsible lifeboats of Berthon's ilk were superseded. 115 00:07:47,280 --> 00:07:50,320 'Today, the company that bears the Reverend's name 116 00:07:50,320 --> 00:07:55,080 'still produces boats to save lives, but they're on a larger scale.' 117 00:07:56,880 --> 00:08:01,480 Evidently, Brian, the business is still lifeboats today? That's right. 118 00:08:01,480 --> 00:08:05,600 We've built 14 lifeboats for the Royal National Lifeboat Institute 119 00:08:05,600 --> 00:08:08,040 in the last 2½, 3 years. 120 00:08:08,040 --> 00:08:11,360 Quite a complicated thing, a lifeboat, these days? They are. 121 00:08:11,360 --> 00:08:15,000 They're £2.5 million each, for a 45-foot boat. 122 00:08:15,000 --> 00:08:18,680 These ones are designed very shallow, with jet engines, 123 00:08:18,680 --> 00:08:21,440 so that they can go up beaches and go very shallow. 124 00:08:21,440 --> 00:08:23,920 Up beaches? They actually come up the beach? 125 00:08:23,920 --> 00:08:26,720 They get deployed off the beach and, when they come back, 126 00:08:26,720 --> 00:08:30,040 they whizz up the beach at 30 knots and the passengers, 127 00:08:30,040 --> 00:08:32,520 or the people being saved, can get off the boat. 128 00:08:34,520 --> 00:08:37,640 'The life-saving work, begun by the Reverend Berthon, 129 00:08:37,640 --> 00:08:39,600 'is continued in the modern era.' 130 00:08:43,800 --> 00:08:47,720 Leaving Lymington behind, I return to the rails 131 00:08:47,720 --> 00:08:51,720 to continue my journey, rejoining the main line at Brockenhurst. 132 00:08:57,040 --> 00:09:00,600 My next stop will be Dorchester. The guidebook says that it's 133 00:09:00,600 --> 00:09:04,800 "The capital of Dorsetshire in a pretty part of the South Downs, 134 00:09:04,800 --> 00:09:08,040 "at the termination of the South Western Railway." 135 00:09:08,040 --> 00:09:12,400 Strange to think that the line didn't yet go on as far as Weymouth. 136 00:09:12,400 --> 00:09:16,120 For Thomas Hardy fans, Dorsetshire will always be Wessex 137 00:09:16,120 --> 00:09:20,320 and Dorchester will always be Casterbridge. 138 00:09:22,880 --> 00:09:26,680 The arrival of the railways in rural areas like Dorset 139 00:09:26,680 --> 00:09:30,160 was met with a mixture of excitement and concern. 140 00:09:30,160 --> 00:09:32,840 Many believed that rural life would change forever, 141 00:09:32,840 --> 00:09:37,000 and none more so than Thomas Hardy, writer and poet, 142 00:09:37,000 --> 00:09:43,240 who was born in the small Dorset hamlet of Higher Bockhampton in 1840. 143 00:09:43,240 --> 00:09:46,200 In his novels, the fictional county of Wessex 144 00:09:46,200 --> 00:09:49,440 was based on people and places around Dorchester 145 00:09:49,440 --> 00:09:53,400 and his writing heavily featured the coming of the railways. 146 00:09:55,880 --> 00:09:57,440 'A short walk from the town, 147 00:09:57,440 --> 00:10:02,360 'I'm meeting Thomas Hardy expert, Dr Jane Thomas, at Max Gate.' 148 00:10:02,360 --> 00:10:05,960 Jane? Hello, Michael, welcome to Max Gate. 149 00:10:05,960 --> 00:10:09,120 'One of the Victorian era's most noted authors, 150 00:10:09,120 --> 00:10:12,120 'creator of Tess of the d'Urbervilles 151 00:10:12,120 --> 00:10:16,080 'and the Mayor of Casterbridge, Hardy wrote with earthy realism. 152 00:10:16,080 --> 00:10:20,080 'The working-class son of a servant and a stonemason, 153 00:10:20,080 --> 00:10:23,520 'he criticised the Victorian constraints, which made it hard 154 00:10:23,520 --> 00:10:27,800 'for people to rise through the social ranks, as he aimed to do.' 155 00:10:29,360 --> 00:10:33,960 What impelled Hardy to better himself? I think it was his mother. 156 00:10:33,960 --> 00:10:35,760 He had a very ambitious mother 157 00:10:35,760 --> 00:10:38,600 and she was very careful of his education, 158 00:10:38,600 --> 00:10:41,680 um, and so she was responsible for getting him 159 00:10:41,680 --> 00:10:44,840 apprenticed to an architect, so he'd become a professional 160 00:10:44,840 --> 00:10:48,240 middle-class man and not a builder, like his father and his brother, 161 00:10:48,240 --> 00:10:49,600 and, um, it's interesting, 162 00:10:49,600 --> 00:10:53,520 when he first went to London in the 1860s to seek his fortune, 163 00:10:53,520 --> 00:10:58,440 he tried very hard to lose his rural bearing and his rural accent. 164 00:10:59,600 --> 00:11:01,200 'As an architect in London, 165 00:11:01,200 --> 00:11:06,440 'he oversaw the excavation of the graveyard of St Pancras Old Church 166 00:11:06,440 --> 00:11:09,760 'during the construction of the new railway terminus.' 167 00:11:12,240 --> 00:11:14,800 But given that Max Gate became his house, evidently, 168 00:11:14,800 --> 00:11:17,200 he returned from London to Dorchester? 169 00:11:17,200 --> 00:11:19,000 Yes, he didn't get on very well in London. 170 00:11:19,000 --> 00:11:21,920 He found the pace of life there very stressful 171 00:11:21,920 --> 00:11:25,360 and he found the pollution very injurious to his health. 172 00:11:25,360 --> 00:11:28,160 And he also felt that he didn't write very well in London, 173 00:11:28,160 --> 00:11:31,360 that he was really inspired by the area that he grew up in 174 00:11:31,360 --> 00:11:33,120 and knew well in his childhood 175 00:11:33,120 --> 00:11:36,600 and so, he moved back to Dorchester fairly soon. 176 00:11:36,600 --> 00:11:41,800 'Continuing as an architect in Dorchester, he wrote on the side. 177 00:11:41,800 --> 00:11:47,280 'Far From The Madding Crowd was so successful that, at the age of 34, 178 00:11:47,280 --> 00:11:50,920 'he committed to writing full-time.' 179 00:11:50,920 --> 00:11:53,960 This house is obviously the house of a successful man. 180 00:11:53,960 --> 00:11:58,240 Yes, he designed it himself and, in 1885, it really represented 181 00:11:58,240 --> 00:12:01,240 the height of middle-class convenience and comfort. 182 00:12:01,240 --> 00:12:03,440 He received some very important writers, 183 00:12:03,440 --> 00:12:08,880 such as JM Barrie, Rudyard Kipling, George Bernard Shaw and Edward VIII, 184 00:12:08,880 --> 00:12:10,920 the Prince of Wales then, also came here. 185 00:12:12,600 --> 00:12:15,520 'Hardy took his place in polite society, 186 00:12:15,520 --> 00:12:18,320 'but the impediments to social mobility 187 00:12:18,320 --> 00:12:21,600 'were a continuing theme of the novels.' 188 00:12:21,600 --> 00:12:24,560 Jude the Obscure is the great novel of social climbing, 189 00:12:24,560 --> 00:12:27,360 where a young boy, a young orphaned boy, 190 00:12:27,360 --> 00:12:29,560 decides he wants to go to university 191 00:12:29,560 --> 00:12:33,680 and the whole of Jude the Obscure is really about his attempt 192 00:12:33,680 --> 00:12:38,240 to better himself, but of course, it doesn't work for him at all. 193 00:12:38,240 --> 00:12:42,760 'Hardy published 14 novels, 49 short stories 194 00:12:42,760 --> 00:12:45,160 'and nearly 1,000 poems, 195 00:12:45,160 --> 00:12:47,240 'much written in this study.' 196 00:12:48,560 --> 00:12:51,080 How does he make use of railways in his novels? 197 00:12:51,080 --> 00:12:55,640 Railways are an opportunity for dramatic speculation, 198 00:12:55,640 --> 00:12:58,240 because you've got lots of strangers meeting, 199 00:12:58,240 --> 00:13:01,240 transient populations, people who may or may never meet again, 200 00:13:01,240 --> 00:13:04,120 lots of brief encounters we might say, um, 201 00:13:04,120 --> 00:13:08,560 so they provide him with quite a lot of material for what-ifs. 202 00:13:08,560 --> 00:13:11,760 I confess I only know Thomas Hardy as a novelist, 203 00:13:11,760 --> 00:13:14,200 but he was also a considerable poet, wasn't he? 204 00:13:14,200 --> 00:13:17,920 Yes, he was, um, he claimed to have spent more time writing poems 205 00:13:17,920 --> 00:13:21,640 than writing novels and being a poet was his first calling 206 00:13:21,640 --> 00:13:25,040 and, perhaps as an example of how he sees the romantic possibilities 207 00:13:25,040 --> 00:13:28,640 in railways, you might want to read Faintheart In A Railway Station? 208 00:13:28,640 --> 00:13:29,960 Hmm, thank you. 209 00:13:31,400 --> 00:13:33,640 "At nine in the morning, there passed a church 210 00:13:33,640 --> 00:13:35,840 "At ten, there passed me by the sea 211 00:13:35,840 --> 00:13:38,000 "At 12, a town of smoke and smirch 212 00:13:38,000 --> 00:13:40,320 "At two, a forest of oak and birch 213 00:13:40,320 --> 00:13:42,880 "And then, on a platform, she 214 00:13:42,880 --> 00:13:45,840 "A radiant stranger, who saw not me 215 00:13:45,840 --> 00:13:48,760 "I said, 'Get out to her! Do I dare?' 216 00:13:48,760 --> 00:13:51,960 "But I kept my seat in my search for a plea 217 00:13:51,960 --> 00:13:53,800 "And the wheels moved on 218 00:13:53,800 --> 00:13:57,560 "Oh, could it but be That I had alighted there!" 219 00:13:57,560 --> 00:13:59,760 He missed his chance. He did indeed. 220 00:14:02,640 --> 00:14:07,040 Thomas Hardy lived at Max Gate until his death in 1928. 221 00:14:09,080 --> 00:14:11,600 I'm making my way back into the town 222 00:14:11,600 --> 00:14:15,200 which was Hardy's inspiration for Casterbridge. 223 00:14:19,640 --> 00:14:23,520 I end my day at a hostelry, referenced in both Bradshaw's 224 00:14:23,520 --> 00:14:27,680 and Hardy's Mayor or Casterbridge - The Kings Arms. 225 00:14:36,520 --> 00:14:38,800 It's the morning of my second day. 226 00:14:39,800 --> 00:14:43,000 Leaving Dorchester, I continue my travels westwards, 227 00:14:43,000 --> 00:14:49,160 rejoining the mainline at Yeovil in Somerset and continuing into Devon. 228 00:14:54,280 --> 00:14:57,400 My first stop of the new day will be Axminster, 229 00:14:57,400 --> 00:14:59,800 apparently situated on the River Axe. 230 00:14:59,800 --> 00:15:03,080 "Some of the best and finest description of carpets 231 00:15:03,080 --> 00:15:08,320 "are made here." As I weave my way towards Devon, carpet making looms. 232 00:15:13,680 --> 00:15:19,440 The route to Axminster skims along the river and past lush pasture. 233 00:15:22,200 --> 00:15:25,520 The landscape suited farming sheep for wool 234 00:15:25,520 --> 00:15:27,520 and the river drove the mills. 235 00:15:31,200 --> 00:15:36,120 I'm keen to discover how Axminster became synonymous with carpets. 236 00:15:37,680 --> 00:15:40,000 At the town's new heritage centre, 237 00:15:40,000 --> 00:15:44,080 I'll find out more from local historian Laurence Hitchcock. 238 00:15:45,800 --> 00:15:47,880 Hello, Laurence. Good morning, Michael. 239 00:15:47,880 --> 00:15:50,560 Good morning, welcome to Thomas Whitty House. 240 00:15:53,800 --> 00:15:58,320 Laurence, this is an extraordinary object. Tell me about this carpet. 241 00:15:58,320 --> 00:16:02,480 It is wonderful, it's recently come back to its home. 242 00:16:02,480 --> 00:16:06,280 It was handmade in this location and we're very privileged to 243 00:16:06,280 --> 00:16:09,520 actually have it back here after 246 years. 244 00:16:09,520 --> 00:16:11,200 So handmade by whom? 245 00:16:11,200 --> 00:16:15,600 Well, Thomas Whitty, who invented the Axminster weave construction, 246 00:16:15,600 --> 00:16:17,120 had a very large family. 247 00:16:17,120 --> 00:16:22,080 He had six daughters, three sons and they all worked in his manufactory. 248 00:16:22,080 --> 00:16:24,360 They had small fingers, nimble fingers, 249 00:16:24,360 --> 00:16:28,080 and he was able to produce the carpets slightly cheaper than 250 00:16:28,080 --> 00:16:30,760 other manufacturers by having a vertical loom 251 00:16:30,760 --> 00:16:34,120 instead of a horizontal loom and so his business grew and grew 252 00:16:34,120 --> 00:16:37,440 and became really quite worldwide famous. 253 00:16:37,440 --> 00:16:39,160 Apart from using his own family, 254 00:16:39,160 --> 00:16:41,960 did he use child labour more generally? Yes. 255 00:16:41,960 --> 00:16:44,320 Generally speaking, it was children and women 256 00:16:44,320 --> 00:16:46,480 who did the weaving for him. 257 00:16:46,480 --> 00:16:51,720 Shocking today, child labour was the norm in the 18th and 19th centuries. 258 00:16:51,720 --> 00:16:56,680 Only in 1833 did the Factory Act ban children from working 259 00:16:56,680 --> 00:17:00,800 in textile factories, but even so, only if under the age of nine. 260 00:17:02,440 --> 00:17:05,600 When Whitty founded the factory in the 1750s, 261 00:17:05,600 --> 00:17:10,480 a big workforce was required to meet the demands of the world of fashion. 262 00:17:11,840 --> 00:17:15,320 The greatest day of his life was when King George III visited 263 00:17:15,320 --> 00:17:18,680 this manufactory with Queen Charlotte and three princesses, 264 00:17:18,680 --> 00:17:21,600 and it was a huge thing and she bought some carpet, the Queen, 265 00:17:21,600 --> 00:17:24,000 and that promoted his business. 266 00:17:25,400 --> 00:17:32,040 'Thomas Whitty died in 1792 and, 43 years later, the business closed. 267 00:17:32,040 --> 00:17:35,160 'Some of his carpets survive, such as this one, 268 00:17:35,160 --> 00:17:41,040 'which adorned the dining room of Rockbeare Manor in Exeter from 1769.' 269 00:17:43,000 --> 00:17:44,800 I call them works of art. 270 00:17:44,800 --> 00:17:47,360 You go to these lovely old palaces and houses 271 00:17:47,360 --> 00:17:50,200 and everybody knows about the Renoirs and the Chippendale, 272 00:17:50,200 --> 00:17:53,360 but these are works of art as well and they're remarkable. 273 00:17:55,280 --> 00:17:58,640 'When the Whitty factory closed in 1835, 274 00:17:58,640 --> 00:18:02,720 'production of carpets switched from Axminster to Kidderminster. 275 00:18:05,320 --> 00:18:07,240 At the time of my Bradshaw's Guide, 276 00:18:07,240 --> 00:18:09,840 when the Victorians were carpeting their homes, 277 00:18:09,840 --> 00:18:11,880 none was made in Axminster. 278 00:18:17,760 --> 00:18:20,520 'But the story didn't end there.' 279 00:18:20,520 --> 00:18:23,160 Hello, Josh. Hello, Michael, pleasure to meet you. 280 00:18:23,160 --> 00:18:27,040 'Josh Dutfield is the commercial director of today's factory.' 281 00:18:30,400 --> 00:18:34,800 How was it that your ancestors came to have the Axminster business? 282 00:18:34,800 --> 00:18:37,440 My family's been holidaying in Cornwall for some time 283 00:18:37,440 --> 00:18:39,080 and originated in Glasgow 284 00:18:39,080 --> 00:18:42,120 and moved into the carpeting industry in Kidderminster, 285 00:18:42,120 --> 00:18:45,080 so whilst on holiday, they decided to stop off at Axminster, 286 00:18:45,080 --> 00:18:48,760 went to see the local vicar, just for a tour around the town, 287 00:18:48,760 --> 00:18:51,760 and the local vicar advised them that, actually, there hadn't been 288 00:18:51,760 --> 00:18:54,760 carpet production in the town for nearly a century at that time, 289 00:18:54,760 --> 00:18:58,240 so they took the decision - my great grandfather and my grandfather - 290 00:18:58,240 --> 00:19:01,960 to move their factory from Kidderminster to the location 291 00:19:01,960 --> 00:19:04,280 we have now, predominantly because the rail line 292 00:19:04,280 --> 00:19:06,440 actually backs onto the back of the factory, 293 00:19:06,440 --> 00:19:08,760 so that gave them a logistical advantage as well. 294 00:19:08,760 --> 00:19:12,680 And did they just kind of pick up the old Axminster method and design? 295 00:19:12,680 --> 00:19:15,520 What they use is the basis of the weave, 296 00:19:15,520 --> 00:19:18,160 but added what's called in our industry an eight pitch, 297 00:19:18,160 --> 00:19:23,000 which is the finest specification Axminster weave you can get. 298 00:19:23,000 --> 00:19:26,560 'The luxurious weave devised by Whitty endures, 299 00:19:26,560 --> 00:19:30,640 'but the scores of women and children operating looms 300 00:19:30,640 --> 00:19:33,040 'have been replaced by machines. 301 00:19:34,840 --> 00:19:40,520 'These durable products carpet hotels, shops and railway carriages. 302 00:19:41,760 --> 00:19:44,960 'The man responsible for these bespoke pieces is 303 00:19:44,960 --> 00:19:47,240 'Gary Bridge, head of design.' 304 00:19:47,240 --> 00:19:49,040 So this, I guess, would be 305 00:19:49,040 --> 00:19:51,320 the traditional way of designing a carpet, would it? 306 00:19:51,320 --> 00:19:54,280 Yeah, this is a good example of how we used to do carpets originally, 307 00:19:54,280 --> 00:19:57,400 so we used to draw them by hand and then paint them on this graph paper, 308 00:19:57,400 --> 00:19:59,680 so this whole process could take about a month 309 00:19:59,680 --> 00:20:01,240 to mix the colours to paint it. 310 00:20:01,240 --> 00:20:03,880 Now, this design on the floor, which is a lovely looking thing, 311 00:20:03,880 --> 00:20:05,320 what is that you're up to there? 312 00:20:05,320 --> 00:20:09,080 This is the carpet we're making for the saloon at Brighton Pavilion. 313 00:20:09,080 --> 00:20:12,520 Originally done in 1830, it was an original Thomas Whitty carpet. 314 00:20:12,520 --> 00:20:15,680 Because there isn't much of the carpet left, we've had to base this 315 00:20:15,680 --> 00:20:19,360 on paintings done from the 1840s, 1850s, of the original carpet. 316 00:20:19,360 --> 00:20:22,280 Then, in total, this'll probably take about 15 months to design, 317 00:20:22,280 --> 00:20:25,000 cos of the intricacy and the size of the rug. Extraordinary! 318 00:20:25,000 --> 00:20:26,480 That looks like a railway carpet. 319 00:20:26,480 --> 00:20:29,760 Yeah, one of the railway carpets we do. And that's nicely resistant 320 00:20:29,760 --> 00:20:32,720 to anybody who throws his tea or coffee over the carpet? Yes. 321 00:20:32,720 --> 00:20:35,040 I mean, the beauty of what we do here is we do anything 322 00:20:35,040 --> 00:20:37,600 from quite a simple design, for this rail company here, 323 00:20:37,600 --> 00:20:40,480 to some historic works for beautiful locations 324 00:20:40,480 --> 00:20:43,840 to, obviously, the cream of the job, which is the Brighton Pavilion. 325 00:20:43,840 --> 00:20:45,440 I think I will go downstairs 326 00:20:45,440 --> 00:20:47,960 and see how the boys put your designs into action. 327 00:20:47,960 --> 00:20:50,680 OK, nice. Thanks very much, Gary. Thank you. Bye-bye. 328 00:20:52,520 --> 00:20:56,440 'Operating one of the computerised looms is Steve.' 329 00:20:58,560 --> 00:21:01,760 I've been seeing some of the designs that Gary's got upstairs. 330 00:21:01,760 --> 00:21:03,960 How are they sent down to you to weave them? 331 00:21:03,960 --> 00:21:05,640 Well, from the design department, 332 00:21:05,640 --> 00:21:07,680 Gary will send it down through the network, 333 00:21:07,680 --> 00:21:12,040 which comes in through the cables into our Jacquard computer here. 334 00:21:12,040 --> 00:21:14,760 The Jacquard will then turn that into motion movement, 335 00:21:14,760 --> 00:21:16,920 where it will lift the carriers to 336 00:21:16,920 --> 00:21:20,560 the required height at the required time for the required colour. 337 00:21:20,560 --> 00:21:23,080 It picks each thread as it's needed? Yes. 338 00:21:23,080 --> 00:21:27,160 And all of that is seamlessly done by computer? Yes. 339 00:21:27,160 --> 00:21:29,560 Yeah. Can we give it a whirl? We certainly can. 340 00:21:29,560 --> 00:21:31,400 This is how you weave. 341 00:21:31,400 --> 00:21:32,800 MACHINERY GRINDS 342 00:21:38,680 --> 00:21:41,480 'This carpet is a special design.' 343 00:21:51,360 --> 00:21:53,600 Steve, that is beautiful! 344 00:21:53,600 --> 00:21:57,640 Great British Railway Journeys and a lovely picture of a locomotive. 345 00:21:57,640 --> 00:22:00,680 That carpet is in the best possible taste! 346 00:22:05,600 --> 00:22:10,120 Leaving Axminster behind, the final leg of my journey arrives 347 00:22:10,120 --> 00:22:15,520 at the coast alongside the River Exe on a beautiful section of track. 348 00:22:17,280 --> 00:22:19,280 My next stop will be Exmouth. 349 00:22:19,280 --> 00:22:22,280 "Situated on the eastern side of the Exe, 350 00:22:22,280 --> 00:22:26,800 "two projected sandbanks form a partial enclosure. 351 00:22:26,800 --> 00:22:29,600 "The river is about a mile and a half across. 352 00:22:29,600 --> 00:22:32,600 "The landscape has a rich softness." 353 00:22:32,600 --> 00:22:35,360 It makes you want to dip your toes in the sea 354 00:22:35,360 --> 00:22:38,040 and your paintbrush in the oils. 355 00:22:39,520 --> 00:22:41,120 'Until the 18th century, 356 00:22:41,120 --> 00:22:46,080 'Exmouth was a backwater fishing port compared to its neighbour Exeter. 357 00:22:46,080 --> 00:22:47,640 'But in the Victorian era, 358 00:22:47,640 --> 00:22:51,280 'it started to attract a fashionable summer crowd. 359 00:22:54,200 --> 00:22:59,600 'The railway arrived in 1861, helping Exmouth to become a scenic resort. 360 00:23:01,360 --> 00:23:05,800 'My guidebook notes that it's a popular place for artists.' 361 00:23:05,800 --> 00:23:09,120 Bradshaw's says, "Probably at no place in England 362 00:23:09,120 --> 00:23:11,920 "are the effects of sunrise and sunset 363 00:23:11,920 --> 00:23:15,160 "more surprising or beautiful than at Exmouth. 364 00:23:15,160 --> 00:23:18,400 "Here Danby, the celebrated landscape painter, 365 00:23:18,400 --> 00:23:23,240 "fixed his residence and produced most of his famous pictures." 366 00:23:23,240 --> 00:23:25,880 Danby? Danby? 367 00:23:25,880 --> 00:23:27,640 Who on earth can that man be?! 368 00:23:29,880 --> 00:23:34,680 Excuse me, sir? Yeah? Have you ever heard of Francis Danby? 369 00:23:34,680 --> 00:23:38,200 Ladies, have you ever heard of Francis Danby? 370 00:23:38,200 --> 00:23:40,120 No, afraid not. OK. 371 00:23:40,120 --> 00:23:42,360 No. Francis Danby? 372 00:23:42,360 --> 00:23:45,360 No, I'm not sure... I can't say I have. No, we can't say we have. 373 00:23:45,360 --> 00:23:48,040 Francis Danby? No. Never heard of Francis Danby? No. 374 00:23:48,040 --> 00:23:51,040 I can't find anyone who's heard of him. Aw. Goodness. 375 00:23:51,040 --> 00:23:53,680 That is such a shame, isn't it? Such a shame. 376 00:23:53,680 --> 00:23:55,880 Someone will know, someone will know him. 377 00:23:55,880 --> 00:24:00,440 'So how is it that a painter so well-known to Bradshaw 378 00:24:00,440 --> 00:24:03,520 'is virtually unknown today? 379 00:24:03,520 --> 00:24:07,160 'One man keen to revive Francis Danby's memory 380 00:24:07,160 --> 00:24:08,840 'is artist Ray Balkwill.' 381 00:24:11,120 --> 00:24:15,600 Ray, who then was Francis Danby and what's the connection with Exmouth? 382 00:24:15,600 --> 00:24:18,160 Well, Francis Danby was one of the leading painters 383 00:24:18,160 --> 00:24:21,680 of the Romantic period in the 19th century and, 384 00:24:21,680 --> 00:24:25,120 in his heyday, he was more popular than Constable. 385 00:24:25,120 --> 00:24:29,960 Um, his connection with Exmouth, he moved down here in 1846, 386 00:24:29,960 --> 00:24:34,880 really for the quality of light and the magnificent sunsets we get here. 387 00:24:34,880 --> 00:24:38,800 You've got a couple of examples of his work here. May I see those? Yes. 388 00:24:38,800 --> 00:24:44,360 Well, this one was The Deluge, which was painted in 1839. 389 00:24:44,360 --> 00:24:46,440 As you can see, it's quite melodramatic 390 00:24:46,440 --> 00:24:49,880 and, to be honest, he was very, very popular for this type of work. 391 00:24:49,880 --> 00:24:54,280 This was at the height of his fame, really. This doesn't really appeal 392 00:24:54,280 --> 00:24:57,520 very much to the modern taste, except of course if you happen 393 00:24:57,520 --> 00:25:01,400 to want 20 naked women in your painting, I suppose. Absolutely. 394 00:25:01,400 --> 00:25:05,720 And when he came to Exmouth, his mood changed dramatically 395 00:25:05,720 --> 00:25:08,360 to one of tranquillity, peacefulness and calm 396 00:25:08,360 --> 00:25:10,560 and it was more naturalistic. 397 00:25:10,560 --> 00:25:14,200 These ships and masts remind me a bit of late 19th-century French painters 398 00:25:14,200 --> 00:25:15,880 and, the sky and the sea, 399 00:25:15,880 --> 00:25:18,160 these colours remind me rather of JMW Turner. 400 00:25:18,160 --> 00:25:19,880 They are very Turner-esque. 401 00:25:19,880 --> 00:25:22,440 But I think, if you see the sunsets in Exmouth, 402 00:25:22,440 --> 00:25:25,320 you realise actually these colours are very, very true. 403 00:25:25,320 --> 00:25:27,320 They look a little bit over the top, 404 00:25:27,320 --> 00:25:31,280 but we get the most fantastic sunsets down in Exmouth and I think 405 00:25:31,280 --> 00:25:35,680 this is one of the reasons that drew him here in the first place. 406 00:25:35,680 --> 00:25:41,720 'So popular was he that he exhibited at London's Royal Academy 48 times 407 00:25:41,720 --> 00:25:44,640 'and, reputedly, Queen Victoria bought a work of his 408 00:25:44,640 --> 00:25:46,640 'to hang in Osborne House.' 409 00:25:46,640 --> 00:25:51,120 Ray, why do you think that Francis Danby has been largely forgotten? 410 00:25:51,120 --> 00:25:54,200 Well, I think the main reason, Michael, is that his work 411 00:25:54,200 --> 00:25:56,920 more or less went out of fashion as soon as he died, 412 00:25:56,920 --> 00:25:58,840 but some of his best work was lost, 413 00:25:58,840 --> 00:26:03,800 so therefore, you know, I think he's forgotten for that reason. 414 00:26:03,800 --> 00:26:07,680 'Ray is taking me to one of Danby's favourite locations. 415 00:26:09,240 --> 00:26:14,000 'I'm intrigued to see what captivated him and attracts artists today.' 416 00:26:15,520 --> 00:26:19,440 So, Ray, you've got, er, your easel here and your artist friends. 417 00:26:19,440 --> 00:26:21,880 Nice to meet you, Michael. This is Mark and Marcia. 418 00:26:21,880 --> 00:26:26,240 Hello, Marcia. Hi. Very good to see you. Two very accomplished painters. 419 00:26:26,240 --> 00:26:29,840 Ray, you're an artist yourself. How are you finding the light today? 420 00:26:29,840 --> 00:26:32,520 Oh, it's fantastic. The clarity of light is amazing! 421 00:26:32,520 --> 00:26:36,520 This is the Halden Hills across here and you can almost see every tree. 422 00:26:36,520 --> 00:26:39,720 But I thought you might like to have a go at putting the sky in? Hmm. 423 00:26:39,720 --> 00:26:42,080 Well, I'm no kind of artist at all. 424 00:26:46,640 --> 00:26:50,120 Ray, here I am just sort of daubing a bit. 425 00:26:50,120 --> 00:26:55,280 But how...how would you describe what it is to paint a good sky? 426 00:26:55,280 --> 00:26:57,680 Well, I think you've got to have a love of the subject 427 00:26:57,680 --> 00:27:02,560 first of all, Michael, and, um, in a way, skies are so inspiring, 428 00:27:02,560 --> 00:27:07,360 which is why Danby was so good at them - he loved the subject. 429 00:27:07,360 --> 00:27:09,120 You're doing a grand job, Michael. 430 00:27:09,120 --> 00:27:12,280 I think, um, Danby would be proud of you. 431 00:27:12,280 --> 00:27:15,080 You old flatterer. LAUGHTER 432 00:27:22,840 --> 00:27:26,800 Tomas Whitty made wonderful Axminster carpets, 433 00:27:26,800 --> 00:27:31,080 but his use of child labour would horrify us today. 434 00:27:31,080 --> 00:27:35,520 Thomas Hardy wrote about the harsh living and working conditions of 435 00:27:35,520 --> 00:27:41,000 the rural poor and the injustices and the tragedies that they might suffer. 436 00:27:41,000 --> 00:27:45,480 Edward Berthon was a religious man with a highly practical streak, 437 00:27:45,480 --> 00:27:49,640 as he demonstrated when he invented his collapsible lifeboat. 438 00:27:49,640 --> 00:27:54,600 He set out to improve the value the Victorians placed on human life. 439 00:27:58,360 --> 00:28:03,240 'Next time, I attempt to learn the difficult art of crimping...' 440 00:28:03,240 --> 00:28:04,920 I don't think much of yours(!) No. 441 00:28:04,920 --> 00:28:08,680 '..get to marvel at one of Brunel's finest feats...' 442 00:28:08,680 --> 00:28:11,280 It's lovely to see a structure that's still here 443 00:28:11,280 --> 00:28:14,720 so long after it was built still in use for its original purpose. 444 00:28:14,720 --> 00:28:17,000 '..discover how a small bay in Cornwall 445 00:28:17,000 --> 00:28:19,720 'effectively controlled the British Empire...' 446 00:28:19,720 --> 00:28:21,960 Cornwall is still the hub of communication. 447 00:28:21,960 --> 00:28:24,480 They carried messages all over the world. 448 00:28:24,480 --> 00:28:27,600 '..and pick up the essentials of the Cornish language.' 449 00:28:27,600 --> 00:28:29,000 Yeghes da!