1 00:00:04,520 --> 00:00:08,560 For Victorian Britons, George Bradshaw was a household name. 2 00:00:09,800 --> 00:00:11,560 At a time when railways were new, 3 00:00:11,560 --> 00:00:15,200 Bradshaw's guidebook inspired them to take to the tracks. 4 00:00:15,200 --> 00:00:20,440 I'm using a Bradshaw's Guide to understand how trains transformed 5 00:00:20,440 --> 00:00:26,360 Britain - its landscape, its industry, society and leisure time. 6 00:00:26,360 --> 00:00:30,120 As I crisscross the country 150 years later, 7 00:00:30,120 --> 00:00:33,480 it helps me to discover the Britain of today. 8 00:00:53,680 --> 00:00:57,280 On this final leg of my journey from England's heartlands to 9 00:00:57,280 --> 00:01:01,520 moorlands, I'll be discovering how the Victorian age marked 10 00:01:01,520 --> 00:01:05,800 a change in our attitude to nature, reflected in many things, 11 00:01:05,800 --> 00:01:09,960 from ambitious engineering projects to romantic poetry. 12 00:01:17,200 --> 00:01:22,160 My route, which began in Birmingham, now arrives in south-west England, 13 00:01:22,160 --> 00:01:24,760 where I'll be visiting ancient farmlands 14 00:01:24,760 --> 00:01:28,240 and battlegrounds, before ending up on the wild 15 00:01:28,240 --> 00:01:32,560 uplands of one of Britain's most glorious national parks. 16 00:01:33,760 --> 00:01:38,240 Today, I'm starting out in romantic Bridgwater in Somerset, then on 17 00:01:38,240 --> 00:01:43,280 to historic Taunton, before arriving at my final destination, Dartmoor. 18 00:01:45,440 --> 00:01:46,960 On this leg of the journey, 19 00:01:46,960 --> 00:01:50,320 I get to grips with a miracle of Victorian engineering... 20 00:01:51,640 --> 00:01:53,680 I've never felt so much power. 21 00:01:55,280 --> 00:01:57,880 ANGRY SHOUTING 22 00:01:57,880 --> 00:02:02,640 ..stand trial in Taunton and suffer the full weight of the law... 23 00:02:02,640 --> 00:02:06,600 I plead guilty and throw myself upon the mercy of this court. 24 00:02:07,680 --> 00:02:10,840 ..and go looking for hidden treasure on Dartmoor. 25 00:02:10,840 --> 00:02:12,880 I've found it! Hurray! 26 00:02:12,880 --> 00:02:14,320 SHE LAUGHS 27 00:02:18,840 --> 00:02:23,280 I'm now approaching the end of my journey, and the town of Bridgwater. 28 00:02:23,280 --> 00:02:26,880 Bradshaw's tells me that at Nether Stowey, Coleridge lived 29 00:02:26,880 --> 00:02:33,800 from 1796 to 1798 after marrying, and here he wrote The Ancient Mariner. 30 00:02:33,800 --> 00:02:37,760 Wordsworth was his neighbour, and composed his lyrical ballads, 31 00:02:37,760 --> 00:02:41,000 the subject of many interminable discussions, 32 00:02:41,000 --> 00:02:45,240 as the friends walked over the hills together. 33 00:02:45,240 --> 00:02:48,720 I'm headed for Somerset's Little Poets Corner. 34 00:02:49,960 --> 00:02:52,400 Lying at the edge of the Somerset Levels, 35 00:02:52,400 --> 00:02:57,160 the ancient inland port of Bridgwater is seven miles from the sea, 36 00:02:57,160 --> 00:03:01,480 and has been an important trading centre since Saxon times. 37 00:03:01,480 --> 00:03:05,320 The railway arrived here in 1841, and the station, 38 00:03:05,320 --> 00:03:09,840 designed by Brunel, is the perfect jumping-off point for my visit. 39 00:03:11,440 --> 00:03:14,760 In nearby Nether Stowey is a small cottage once 40 00:03:14,760 --> 00:03:17,200 lived in by Samuel Taylor Coleridge, 41 00:03:17,200 --> 00:03:22,480 who wrote some of his most famous work here, including Kubla Khan. 42 00:03:22,480 --> 00:03:26,400 I hope to discover more about the poet's life in the village 43 00:03:26,400 --> 00:03:28,840 from Coleridge expert Tina Mitchell. 44 00:03:30,680 --> 00:03:32,760 Hello, Tina. Hello, Michael! 45 00:03:32,760 --> 00:03:36,040 Tina, what was it that brought the Samuel Taylor Coleridge family 46 00:03:36,040 --> 00:03:40,120 to this cottage? They were looking to escape their debts, and they met up 47 00:03:40,120 --> 00:03:42,680 with a friend, a local man of substance, Tom Poole. 48 00:03:42,680 --> 00:03:45,440 This was the only cottage at the time that he could find for them, 49 00:03:45,440 --> 00:03:47,640 and he described it as "a bit of a hovel". 50 00:03:47,640 --> 00:03:50,520 I mean, nowadays, it looks very nice indeed, a lovely village 51 00:03:50,520 --> 00:03:53,760 and a lovely cottage. You're telling me it was something different then? 52 00:03:53,760 --> 00:03:56,680 When they moved in, you have to imagine a much smaller cottage. 53 00:03:56,680 --> 00:04:00,000 It was thatched, there was an open sewer running past the front door, 54 00:04:00,000 --> 00:04:03,320 so the stench in summer would've been something unimaginable. 55 00:04:03,320 --> 00:04:06,120 Was it a coincidence that the Wordsworths were neighbours 56 00:04:06,120 --> 00:04:08,000 staying close by? No, it wasn't. 57 00:04:08,000 --> 00:04:09,680 They'd met previously while walking 58 00:04:09,680 --> 00:04:13,600 and a friendship began which was to last a very, very long time. 59 00:04:13,600 --> 00:04:16,600 So, the Wordsworths actively looked to move here to be near to 60 00:04:16,600 --> 00:04:18,440 Samuel Taylor Coleridge. 61 00:04:19,720 --> 00:04:22,840 Coleridge and the Wordsworths went on almost daily walks 62 00:04:22,840 --> 00:04:26,000 together in the nearby Quantock Hills. 63 00:04:26,000 --> 00:04:29,600 But his long-suffering wife Sarah stayed behind, to try to make 64 00:04:29,600 --> 00:04:32,200 the best of their new home. 65 00:04:33,360 --> 00:04:35,720 Tina, what were conditions like for them? 66 00:04:35,720 --> 00:04:37,520 You have to imagine that the cottage then, 67 00:04:37,520 --> 00:04:41,400 when they moved in, was very dark, it was damp, it was very draughty. 68 00:04:41,400 --> 00:04:43,360 It was overrun with mice. 69 00:04:43,360 --> 00:04:45,640 How did Coleridge's wife Sarah feel about that? 70 00:04:45,640 --> 00:04:48,720 Obviously, her priority was to her child Hartley. 71 00:04:48,720 --> 00:04:52,000 She wanted to get the cottage as cosy as possible as fast 72 00:04:52,000 --> 00:04:54,000 as possible and as warm as she could. 73 00:04:54,000 --> 00:04:56,600 Was this a period of strain for the marriage, do you think? 74 00:04:56,600 --> 00:04:57,960 Originally, no. 75 00:04:57,960 --> 00:05:00,560 They were very much in love when they moved into the cottage. 76 00:05:00,560 --> 00:05:03,400 Unfortunately, when Samuel Taylor Coleridge was in Germany 77 00:05:03,400 --> 00:05:05,720 for a long period, Berkeley, their second child, 78 00:05:05,720 --> 00:05:09,360 became very ill while he was away and died in the February. 79 00:05:09,360 --> 00:05:12,440 Samuel Taylor Coleridge didn't come back until the July, 80 00:05:12,440 --> 00:05:14,960 so obviously, this put a great strain on the marriage 81 00:05:14,960 --> 00:05:17,960 and was the beginning of the end of the marriage. 82 00:05:17,960 --> 00:05:21,560 Nowadays, it's generally accepted that Coleridge was probably 83 00:05:21,560 --> 00:05:23,760 suffering from manic depression, 84 00:05:23,760 --> 00:05:28,560 which over the years was exacerbated by his opium addiction. 85 00:05:28,560 --> 00:05:32,240 But when he moved to Nether Stowey, he was still a young idealist, 86 00:05:32,240 --> 00:05:37,200 seeking the simple life for his family, surrounded by nature. 87 00:05:37,200 --> 00:05:39,440 Tina, the garden looks very beautiful. 88 00:05:39,440 --> 00:05:41,360 Was it like this in Coleridge's day? 89 00:05:41,360 --> 00:05:44,640 When they moved in, it was twice the size of what you see today. 90 00:05:44,640 --> 00:05:47,600 His idea was to live a life of self-sufficiency. 91 00:05:47,600 --> 00:05:51,680 Unfortunately, he was slowly taken away to other areas, 92 00:05:51,680 --> 00:05:54,720 such as writing his poetry and talking long into the night, 93 00:05:54,720 --> 00:05:56,960 and the garden unfortunately suffered 94 00:05:56,960 --> 00:06:00,400 and ended up as more of a wild garden than a vegetable garden. 95 00:06:00,400 --> 00:06:02,720 So if the garden was abandoned, 96 00:06:02,720 --> 00:06:05,520 that, at least, implies that this was a period when he was writing. 97 00:06:05,520 --> 00:06:08,240 It was while he was here that he was most prolific. 98 00:06:08,240 --> 00:06:11,040 It was the birthplace of the Romantic literary movement 99 00:06:11,040 --> 00:06:13,400 and while he was here, in those short three years, 100 00:06:13,400 --> 00:06:16,040 he wrote Kubla Khan, The Rime Of The Ancient Mariner 101 00:06:16,040 --> 00:06:18,320 and he wrote This Lime-Tree Bower My Prison. 102 00:06:18,320 --> 00:06:23,120 'This Lime-Tree Bower My Prison, was inspired not so much by nature, 103 00:06:23,120 --> 00:06:25,920 'but by his sorrow at missing out on it.' 104 00:06:25,920 --> 00:06:29,680 Coleridge was about to set off on yet another walk with his cronies, 105 00:06:29,680 --> 00:06:32,960 when his wife, presumably now heartily fed up, 106 00:06:32,960 --> 00:06:35,960 spilt a pan of boiling milk over his foot. 107 00:06:35,960 --> 00:06:41,240 He retired to the said lime-tree bower in pain, to vent his angst. 108 00:06:41,240 --> 00:06:44,560 Let's have a read of that famous sulk. 109 00:06:46,840 --> 00:06:50,440 "Well, they are gone, and here must I remain, 110 00:06:50,440 --> 00:06:53,680 "This lime-tree bower my prison! I have lost 111 00:06:53,680 --> 00:06:55,920 "Beauties and feelings, such as would have been 112 00:06:55,920 --> 00:06:58,600 "Most sweet to my remembrance even when age 113 00:06:58,600 --> 00:07:02,600 "Had dimm'd mine eyes to blindness! They, meanwhile, 114 00:07:02,600 --> 00:07:05,840 "Friends, whom I never more may meet again, 115 00:07:05,840 --> 00:07:09,040 "On Springy heath, along the hill-top edge, 116 00:07:09,040 --> 00:07:11,560 "Wander in gladness..." 117 00:07:11,560 --> 00:07:15,280 You've got to feel sorry for him, haven't you? Stuck here on his own. 118 00:07:23,520 --> 00:07:27,920 Bradshaw's comments that, "Somerset possesses every gradation, 119 00:07:27,920 --> 00:07:31,560 "from the lofty mountain and barren moor, to the rich 120 00:07:31,560 --> 00:07:33,400 "and cultivated vale 121 00:07:33,400 --> 00:07:37,560 "and then descends to the unimprovable marsh and fens." 122 00:07:37,560 --> 00:07:41,680 But that was to underestimate Victorian ingenuity. 123 00:07:41,680 --> 00:07:46,760 The low-lying land could be improved and made suitable for agriculture. 124 00:07:46,760 --> 00:07:50,320 And these newly raised banks of the River Parrett, 125 00:07:50,320 --> 00:07:53,880 are intended to protect these fields from flooding. 126 00:07:56,320 --> 00:08:00,760 'Man has been battling nature for control of the Somerset levels 127 00:08:00,760 --> 00:08:02,840 'since Roman times. 128 00:08:02,840 --> 00:08:06,240 'This 160,000 acres of coastal plain 129 00:08:06,240 --> 00:08:10,720 'drains naturally into two rivers, the Tone and the Parrett. 130 00:08:10,720 --> 00:08:14,320 'But the majority of the land lies below sea level, 131 00:08:14,320 --> 00:08:17,760 'so a combination of tidal surges and heavy rains, 132 00:08:17,760 --> 00:08:22,520 'such as we've seen in recent years, can have catastrophic consequences. 133 00:08:22,520 --> 00:08:26,680 'Until the Victorian age, when floods came, residents 134 00:08:26,680 --> 00:08:31,520 'and farmers could only watch and wait for the water to subside. 135 00:08:31,520 --> 00:08:34,880 'But in 1830, an act of parliament ordered 136 00:08:34,880 --> 00:08:39,680 'the construction of a steam-powered pumping station at Westonzoyland, 137 00:08:39,680 --> 00:08:43,720 'to eject water from flooded land back into the river.' 138 00:08:45,480 --> 00:08:47,320 Hello! 139 00:08:47,320 --> 00:08:49,680 Are you going towards the Victorian pumping station? 140 00:08:49,680 --> 00:08:51,880 Yes, please jump on. Thank you. 141 00:08:57,160 --> 00:09:00,880 'I'm hitching a ride on one of the original log-carrying 142 00:09:00,880 --> 00:09:04,600 'locomotives that would have kept the boiler supplied with fuel.' 143 00:09:10,680 --> 00:09:12,920 Thank you. Thank you. 144 00:09:14,800 --> 00:09:17,960 'In Victorian times, the station attendant, 145 00:09:17,960 --> 00:09:20,560 'who operated the pump, would live here.' 146 00:09:22,920 --> 00:09:25,680 Hello, Michael, welcome to Westonzoyland Pumping Station. 147 00:09:25,680 --> 00:09:27,680 I'm looking forward to this. 148 00:09:27,680 --> 00:09:30,920 'Nowadays, this remarkable machine is kept in working 149 00:09:30,920 --> 00:09:35,440 'order by enthusiasts, including Alan Davies and John Trenchard.' 150 00:09:35,440 --> 00:09:38,920 This is a Victorian engine? It is indeed, Michael. 151 00:09:38,920 --> 00:09:42,840 It was built in 1861, developed by John George Appold. 152 00:09:42,840 --> 00:09:47,320 And he demonstrated it in 1851, at the Great Exhibition. 153 00:09:47,320 --> 00:09:50,000 Was this Victorian engine pretty effective as a pump? 154 00:09:50,000 --> 00:09:52,040 It was very effective. 155 00:09:52,040 --> 00:09:56,000 In fact, at the International Exhibition, of 1862, 156 00:09:56,000 --> 00:09:58,800 one of these was set up with a tank of water. 157 00:09:58,800 --> 00:10:01,600 It could pump 100 tonnes of water a minute. 158 00:10:01,600 --> 00:10:05,400 That is about an inch of water off an acre of land every minute, 159 00:10:05,400 --> 00:10:08,440 which is quite phenomenal. Absolutely phenomenal. 160 00:10:08,440 --> 00:10:10,440 By the end of the Victorian era, 161 00:10:10,440 --> 00:10:13,400 there were eight pumping stations on the Somerset Levels. 162 00:10:13,400 --> 00:10:16,000 This is the only one still operational, 163 00:10:16,000 --> 00:10:19,160 although it's not part of the drainage system any more. 164 00:10:29,000 --> 00:10:31,520 I've never felt so much power. 165 00:10:33,120 --> 00:10:38,200 In 2014, after some of the worst January rains on record, 166 00:10:38,200 --> 00:10:43,000 25 square miles of the Somerset Levels were left underwater. 167 00:10:43,000 --> 00:10:46,320 There followed the largest mobile pumping operation ever 168 00:10:46,320 --> 00:10:47,920 undertaken in Europe. 169 00:10:47,920 --> 00:10:53,800 With 120 pumps working around the clock, capable of moving 8.5 million 170 00:10:53,800 --> 00:10:59,560 tonnes of water a day, enough to fill Wembley Stadium seven times over. 171 00:10:59,560 --> 00:11:02,840 Carymoor station was one of those on the front-line 172 00:11:02,840 --> 00:11:05,560 and I'm heading there now to meet Tim Musgrove, 173 00:11:05,560 --> 00:11:09,080 of the Environment Agency, to hear how they coped. 174 00:11:09,080 --> 00:11:11,720 Tim. Hello, Michael. 175 00:11:11,720 --> 00:11:15,240 I've just come from seeing a Victorian steam engine... Yes. 176 00:11:15,240 --> 00:11:18,480 ..which, though working, is not moving water around any more, 177 00:11:18,480 --> 00:11:19,760 but these are. 178 00:11:19,760 --> 00:11:23,360 Yes, these two do and do most winters. What is their job? 179 00:11:23,360 --> 00:11:26,240 Their job is to get the water from the moor 180 00:11:26,240 --> 00:11:28,320 and push it out into the river. 181 00:11:28,320 --> 00:11:30,560 These engines themselves look quite elderly. 182 00:11:30,560 --> 00:11:34,400 Yes, they're 1954, they went in and they're just clocking up 183 00:11:34,400 --> 00:11:37,120 with 750,000 hours without any breakdowns. 184 00:11:37,120 --> 00:11:40,480 What is the capacity? How much water can they pump? 185 00:11:40,480 --> 00:11:44,360 They're pumping just over 2,200 litres a second, each. 186 00:11:44,360 --> 00:11:48,440 You had, in Somerset, devastating floods in 2014. 187 00:11:48,440 --> 00:11:50,400 What was that like for you? 188 00:11:50,400 --> 00:11:52,520 It was a busy time, I can't deny. 189 00:11:52,520 --> 00:11:55,400 In here it was all flooded for two months. 190 00:11:55,400 --> 00:11:56,720 Were the engines damaged? 191 00:11:56,720 --> 00:11:59,040 No, no, the engines don't get any water on them, 192 00:11:59,040 --> 00:12:01,320 they are built too high out of the water. 193 00:12:01,320 --> 00:12:03,280 Could I actually see the engine running? 194 00:12:03,280 --> 00:12:05,320 Yes, we're just doing a maintenance run, 195 00:12:05,320 --> 00:12:08,400 so we can start them up, run and pump some water. 196 00:12:13,360 --> 00:12:15,440 Success! 197 00:12:16,760 --> 00:12:19,160 Can we see what it's doing? 198 00:12:21,240 --> 00:12:23,440 Did I really do that? 199 00:12:23,440 --> 00:12:26,600 So that's, what, about two tonnes of water a second? Yes. 200 00:12:26,600 --> 00:12:28,560 And this is, which river now? 201 00:12:28,560 --> 00:12:30,680 This is the River Tone and it flows down 202 00:12:30,680 --> 00:12:33,720 and out to the River Parrett and then into the Bristol Channel. 203 00:12:33,720 --> 00:12:36,360 And then safely into the sea. Yes. 204 00:12:41,640 --> 00:12:44,720 'I'm returning to Bridgwater Station, 205 00:12:44,720 --> 00:12:47,840 'to catch the Great Western service, heading south.' 206 00:13:06,480 --> 00:13:10,440 I shall spend the last night of this journey in Taunton. 207 00:13:10,440 --> 00:13:13,480 Bradshaw says, "The town, as seen from the station, 208 00:13:13,480 --> 00:13:16,120 "has a most pleasing appearance. 209 00:13:16,120 --> 00:13:22,080 "It's situated in the central part of the luxuriant Vale of Taunton Deane." 210 00:13:22,080 --> 00:13:25,160 And it mentions the Castle Hotel, but, for once, 211 00:13:25,160 --> 00:13:27,600 I've no need for my Bradshaw's. 212 00:13:27,600 --> 00:13:29,800 It's a place I know well. 213 00:13:40,640 --> 00:13:45,960 'My guidebook gives fulsome praise to this ancient borough town, 214 00:13:45,960 --> 00:13:49,640 'but before I explore parts unknown, I'm going to relax 215 00:13:49,640 --> 00:13:53,240 'and enjoy myself in familiar surroundings.' 216 00:13:56,280 --> 00:13:59,920 Thank you, that looks lovely. Thank you. Thank you. 217 00:14:02,240 --> 00:14:04,200 I know this hotel well, 218 00:14:04,200 --> 00:14:08,280 cos I've often spent weekends here listening to classical music. 219 00:14:08,280 --> 00:14:11,160 But, tomorrow, I must look into Taunton's history 220 00:14:11,160 --> 00:14:14,480 and something altogether more discordant. 221 00:14:22,840 --> 00:14:27,440 'The next day, I'm up early and out to soak up the atmosphere of this 222 00:14:27,440 --> 00:14:29,480 'historic town.' 223 00:14:29,480 --> 00:14:32,720 The name Taunton means, "Town on the River Tone" 224 00:14:32,720 --> 00:14:36,160 and there's been a settlement here since the Bronze Age. 225 00:14:36,160 --> 00:14:38,520 It grew to be prosperous in the Middle Ages, 226 00:14:38,520 --> 00:14:40,440 thanks to the wool trade. 227 00:14:40,440 --> 00:14:43,760 But my focus is on the end of the 17th century. 228 00:14:43,760 --> 00:14:47,960 The English Civil War was over, but, once again, 229 00:14:47,960 --> 00:14:49,880 the monarchy was under threat. 230 00:14:51,920 --> 00:14:54,880 Bradshaw's tells me that, here in Taunton, 231 00:14:54,880 --> 00:15:01,160 "The ill-fated Duke of Monmouth proclaimed himself King, in 1685." 232 00:15:01,160 --> 00:15:05,080 He'd risen in rebellion, against the new monarch, James II, who, 233 00:15:05,080 --> 00:15:08,200 unlike his predecessor, was a Catholic. 234 00:15:08,200 --> 00:15:11,520 There followed a mighty clash of arms 235 00:15:11,520 --> 00:15:15,560 and the last battle to be fought on English soil. 236 00:15:19,480 --> 00:15:22,040 The Duke of Monmouth was an illegitimate 237 00:15:22,040 --> 00:15:27,800 son of King Charles II, living in self-imposed exile in Holland. 238 00:15:27,800 --> 00:15:33,520 In February 1685, he landed in Dorset with 82 men and rode to Taunton, 239 00:15:33,520 --> 00:15:38,000 where the Protestant-leaning citizens welcomed him. 240 00:15:38,000 --> 00:15:41,240 Something they would come to regret. 241 00:15:41,240 --> 00:15:44,600 I'm heading to St Mary's Church in Chedzoy, 242 00:15:44,600 --> 00:15:48,280 ten miles north of Taunton, to hear about the decisive 243 00:15:48,280 --> 00:15:52,320 Battle of Sedgemoor, from the head of Somerset Museum, Steve Minute. 244 00:15:52,320 --> 00:15:55,120 Hello, Steve. Beautiful church. 245 00:15:55,120 --> 00:15:58,400 It is, one of the many fantastic ones in Somerset. 246 00:15:58,400 --> 00:16:04,400 'Chedzoy Church has 13th century origins and a tower 70ft high, 247 00:16:04,400 --> 00:16:08,440 'which gives a commanding view of the surrounding countryside.' 248 00:16:09,680 --> 00:16:13,840 Why have we come to the roof of the tower of beautiful Chedzy Church? 249 00:16:13,840 --> 00:16:15,640 Well, there was one small incident 250 00:16:15,640 --> 00:16:17,600 that occurred immediately before the 251 00:16:17,600 --> 00:16:20,920 Battle of Sedgemoor, which had a huge impact 252 00:16:20,920 --> 00:16:22,960 on the events at that time. 253 00:16:22,960 --> 00:16:28,960 On the morning of 5th July 1685, a local man, by the name 254 00:16:28,960 --> 00:16:34,480 of William Spark, he was a farmer, came up here with his spyglass. 255 00:16:34,480 --> 00:16:38,640 He looked out from where we are now, across to Westonzoyland, 256 00:16:38,640 --> 00:16:40,720 where the Royal army was camped 257 00:16:40,720 --> 00:16:43,840 and saw that they weren't particularly well-protected. 258 00:16:43,840 --> 00:16:47,640 And, as a consequence of that, Monmouth changed his plans. 259 00:16:47,640 --> 00:16:50,600 And on the night of 5th July, he set out, 260 00:16:50,600 --> 00:16:53,360 in view of a surprise attack on the Royal army. 261 00:16:53,360 --> 00:16:55,400 What was the result of the attack? 262 00:16:55,400 --> 00:16:57,800 It was an utter disaster, sadly, for the Duke of Monmouth 263 00:16:57,800 --> 00:16:59,360 and his followers. 264 00:16:59,360 --> 00:17:02,240 The night was very misty, they couldn't find 265 00:17:02,240 --> 00:17:05,480 crossings of some of the ditches and then a pistol was fired. 266 00:17:05,480 --> 00:17:07,680 Almost certainly one of the Royal Cavalry 267 00:17:07,680 --> 00:17:09,520 had spotted something happening. 268 00:17:09,520 --> 00:17:12,760 The rebels panicked and hundreds of people were killed. 269 00:17:14,160 --> 00:17:18,720 There followed an infamous period in British history. 270 00:17:18,720 --> 00:17:20,080 The fleeing rebels, 271 00:17:20,080 --> 00:17:23,440 and anyone thought to have sympathised with them, 272 00:17:23,440 --> 00:17:26,920 were rounded up and put on trial at what became known as 273 00:17:26,920 --> 00:17:29,160 the Bloody Assizes. 274 00:17:29,160 --> 00:17:33,240 "After the defeat at Sedgemoor, King James' chief justice, 275 00:17:33,240 --> 00:17:37,320 "Jeffreys, the worthy tool of such a monster, 276 00:17:37,320 --> 00:17:42,200 "held his Bloody Assizes, at Taunton." Just here. 277 00:17:42,200 --> 00:17:45,800 "Hundreds of poor wretches were condemned to death, 278 00:17:45,800 --> 00:17:50,120 "after being persuaded to throw themselves on the King's mercy. 279 00:17:50,120 --> 00:17:54,320 "The executioner hanged one man three times." 280 00:17:54,320 --> 00:17:58,560 I just can't imagine what it would've been like to be one of the accused. 281 00:18:01,360 --> 00:18:04,280 Bring on John Hucker. 282 00:18:04,280 --> 00:18:09,960 Traitor! Traitor! Hang him! Traitor! 283 00:18:09,960 --> 00:18:12,480 Silence! 284 00:18:12,480 --> 00:18:15,320 John Hucker, you stand accused of high treason, 285 00:18:15,320 --> 00:18:19,520 by lately being in armed rebellion against your lawful King. 286 00:18:19,520 --> 00:18:23,760 I am obliged by law to give you the right to plead guilty or not guilty. 287 00:18:23,760 --> 00:18:26,920 However, I will extend leniency, where possible, 288 00:18:26,920 --> 00:18:29,640 to those who plead guilty. 289 00:18:29,640 --> 00:18:34,160 I have a muster roll here, from the Duke of Monmouth's army, 290 00:18:34,160 --> 00:18:38,200 with your name on it, as a Captain of Horse. 291 00:18:38,200 --> 00:18:42,080 I also have diverse, loyal witnesses who will swear they saw you with 292 00:18:42,080 --> 00:18:46,800 the Duke and indeed followed him all the way to the battle at Sedgemoor. 293 00:18:46,800 --> 00:18:49,160 That being so, how do you plead? 294 00:18:54,720 --> 00:18:58,960 In view of your words, my Lord, I plead guilty 295 00:18:58,960 --> 00:19:01,560 and throw myself upon the mercy of this court. 296 00:19:03,560 --> 00:19:05,880 "Guilty", eh? 297 00:19:05,880 --> 00:19:10,200 Regrettably, the depth of your crime is such that mercy has flown. 298 00:19:10,200 --> 00:19:14,240 So, John Hucker, I find you guilty of high treason 299 00:19:14,240 --> 00:19:16,440 against your lawful King. 300 00:19:16,440 --> 00:19:19,160 Do you have anything to say before I pass sentence? 301 00:19:19,160 --> 00:19:24,680 He's a traitor! Traitor! Liar! String him up! Traitor! 302 00:19:24,680 --> 00:19:26,680 Silence! 303 00:19:26,680 --> 00:19:30,360 I stand before my God, as a man of conscience. 304 00:19:30,360 --> 00:19:35,760 I could not remain idle and see England led back to popery. 305 00:19:35,760 --> 00:19:38,480 And, for that, I shall die. 306 00:19:39,720 --> 00:19:41,440 Indeed you will. 307 00:19:41,440 --> 00:19:45,720 John Hucker, one time captain of rebel horse, your lands, 308 00:19:45,720 --> 00:19:48,840 properties and monies will be forfeit to the Crown. 309 00:19:48,840 --> 00:19:52,800 I sentence you to a traitor's death, you will be hanged by the neck, 310 00:19:52,800 --> 00:19:57,040 cut down whilst still alive and then drawn and quartered. 311 00:19:57,040 --> 00:19:59,600 May God have mercy on your soul. 312 00:19:59,600 --> 00:20:01,480 Captain, take him away. 313 00:20:09,240 --> 00:20:15,880 In all, 144 men and women were condemned to death at the Assizes. 314 00:20:15,880 --> 00:20:17,920 I'll have a black tea, please. 315 00:20:17,920 --> 00:20:21,720 'Luckily, for us actors, it's a refreshing cup of tea, 316 00:20:21,720 --> 00:20:23,880 'not the gallows that beckons.' 317 00:20:23,880 --> 00:20:31,000 I must say, you were a very fearsome crowd, you really were. You! 318 00:20:31,000 --> 00:20:32,960 You, screaming at me. 319 00:20:34,080 --> 00:20:36,280 Thank you all very much indeed. 320 00:20:36,280 --> 00:20:39,320 I've got a train to catch, 321 00:20:39,320 --> 00:20:41,360 so...I can't hang around. 322 00:20:43,440 --> 00:20:49,200 'Divesting myself of 17th century garb, I return to Taunton Station 323 00:20:49,200 --> 00:20:53,920 'for the final leg of this 200 mile railway adventure.' 324 00:21:01,760 --> 00:21:05,920 The last station on my journey will be Exeter St David's. 325 00:21:05,920 --> 00:21:11,240 Bradshaw says that, "Dartmoor and the waste called Dartmoor Forest occupy 326 00:21:11,240 --> 00:21:15,040 "the greater portion of the western district of Devonshire, which 327 00:21:15,040 --> 00:21:19,800 "extends from the Vale of Exeter to the banks of the River Tamar." 328 00:21:19,800 --> 00:21:25,640 What a lovely, vast area, in which to play a massive game of hide and seek. 329 00:21:30,120 --> 00:21:34,960 Dartmoor and Dartmoor Forest cover about 365 square 330 00:21:34,960 --> 00:21:38,720 miles of rugged upland and wooded valleys. 331 00:21:38,720 --> 00:21:43,280 Interspersed with craggy, granite outcrops, known as tors. 332 00:21:43,280 --> 00:21:48,080 It was officially designated a national park in 1951, 333 00:21:48,080 --> 00:21:53,120 but the Dartmoor Preservation Society was established back in 1883. 334 00:21:53,120 --> 00:21:57,400 And it was popular with Victorian walkers and nature lovers. 335 00:21:59,640 --> 00:22:03,200 News has reached my ears of a Dartmoor tradition, 336 00:22:03,200 --> 00:22:06,160 called letterboxing, which has enthusiasts 337 00:22:06,160 --> 00:22:10,600 descending from all over the country to scour the landscape. 338 00:22:10,600 --> 00:22:14,360 To find out how it all started and what they're looking for, 339 00:22:14,360 --> 00:22:19,680 I'm heading up onto the moor to meet keen letterboxer, Pat Reed. 340 00:22:19,680 --> 00:22:23,680 Hello, Pat. Hello, Michael, welcome to Shilstone Tor. 341 00:22:23,680 --> 00:22:26,600 Thank you very much. Well, it's a remote spot, 342 00:22:26,600 --> 00:22:30,480 but I've been sent here to find out about letterboxing. 343 00:22:30,480 --> 00:22:32,840 What is it, when did it begin? 344 00:22:32,840 --> 00:22:39,360 It began in 1854, it was started by a man called James Perrot, 345 00:22:39,360 --> 00:22:42,320 who put the first letterbox in a place called Cranmere Pool, 346 00:22:42,320 --> 00:22:46,000 in a rather remote part of Dartmoor. 347 00:22:46,000 --> 00:22:48,760 He left it there, he had his visiting card, 348 00:22:48,760 --> 00:22:51,080 he left that behind in it as well. 349 00:22:51,080 --> 00:22:52,840 And then people used to go 350 00:22:52,840 --> 00:22:57,440 and put their own visiting cards in, to show that they'd actually 351 00:22:57,440 --> 00:23:00,320 transversed that really difficult part of the moor. 352 00:23:00,320 --> 00:23:01,760 It was a challenge, 353 00:23:01,760 --> 00:23:04,880 but even the ladies, in their long dresses, managed it. 354 00:23:04,880 --> 00:23:07,480 And that must've been quite something, I think. 355 00:23:07,480 --> 00:23:09,240 How do you get your clues? 356 00:23:09,240 --> 00:23:13,160 Well, in October and March, on the days when the clock goes forward and 357 00:23:13,160 --> 00:23:17,200 the clock goes back, we have what is called, a "letterboxer's meet". 358 00:23:17,200 --> 00:23:20,680 At that meet you can buy a catalogue. 359 00:23:20,680 --> 00:23:23,960 Which is what I'm holding in my hand now 360 00:23:23,960 --> 00:23:27,480 and this tells you where all the boxes are. 361 00:23:27,480 --> 00:23:30,920 "Black Spots, no.66, Shilstone Tor. 362 00:23:30,920 --> 00:23:34,840 "White chimney 086 degrees, a backward L-shaped, 363 00:23:34,840 --> 00:23:37,400 "small holly in boulder very close." 364 00:23:37,400 --> 00:23:40,120 This is written in gobbledegook. 365 00:23:40,120 --> 00:23:43,560 Well, I will help you. Tell me what the bearing is on the tor. 366 00:23:43,560 --> 00:23:45,480 172 degrees. 367 00:23:45,480 --> 00:23:47,240 So there is the compass, 368 00:23:47,240 --> 00:23:51,520 so you need to move this dial around until 172 is there. 369 00:23:51,520 --> 00:23:53,800 Keep it in your hand. 370 00:23:53,800 --> 00:23:57,240 You have to go where the arrow is telling you to go. 371 00:23:57,240 --> 00:23:59,640 Pat, you've given me a little clue, I think 372 00:23:59,640 --> 00:24:02,840 I'm meant to go in that direction. I think you'd better! 373 00:24:06,720 --> 00:24:09,920 'Having been nudged gently in the right direction, 374 00:24:09,920 --> 00:24:13,480 'I now must keep my eyes open for landmarks.' 375 00:24:13,480 --> 00:24:17,200 When we set out, I couldn't see any white chimney, 376 00:24:17,200 --> 00:24:20,040 but, I must say, that white chimney, actually, is very obvious. 377 00:24:20,040 --> 00:24:21,640 It is very obvious. 378 00:24:21,640 --> 00:24:27,800 Pat, I can see the tree, so I'm putting that now to 335. 379 00:24:27,800 --> 00:24:30,760 Do you know, I'm getting quite... You're getting very good at it. 380 00:24:30,760 --> 00:24:33,280 Well, I don't know about that, but I'm getting in to it. 381 00:24:33,280 --> 00:24:36,560 Getting the hang of it. And enjoying it. 382 00:24:36,560 --> 00:24:39,200 Could you remind me, what are we looking for? 383 00:24:39,200 --> 00:24:42,840 Yes, we're looking for an L-shaped rock, with a small holly growing in it. 384 00:24:42,840 --> 00:24:45,560 Right. So we have to climb, I think. A little bit. 385 00:24:45,560 --> 00:24:48,040 Let's climb, here we go. 386 00:24:48,040 --> 00:24:54,080 '20 minutes later, after a lot of bracken bashing, we strike lucky.' 387 00:24:54,080 --> 00:24:56,960 I've found it! Hooray! 388 00:24:56,960 --> 00:24:59,200 A backward, L-shaped rock. 389 00:24:59,200 --> 00:25:01,640 But finding the rock was not the point, was it, Pat? 390 00:25:01,640 --> 00:25:03,640 It was to find the box. 391 00:25:03,640 --> 00:25:06,720 Exactly, but the clue tells you that it's under the rock, 392 00:25:06,720 --> 00:25:09,440 so you've got to look and see. 393 00:25:09,440 --> 00:25:12,800 There we have it. Ah-ha! 394 00:25:12,800 --> 00:25:17,600 (The moment I've been waiting for.) 395 00:25:17,600 --> 00:25:19,640 Is it money? 396 00:25:19,640 --> 00:25:21,200 No. 397 00:25:21,200 --> 00:25:24,440 MICHAEL LAUGHS No such luck. 398 00:25:24,440 --> 00:25:26,520 Oh. That's the visitors' book. 399 00:25:26,520 --> 00:25:27,800 And a stamp... 400 00:25:28,800 --> 00:25:32,880 ..of a dog, by the look of it. What happens next? 401 00:25:32,880 --> 00:25:36,080 Every letterboxer carries an ink pad and a book and a stamp. 402 00:25:36,080 --> 00:25:41,600 Here is your special Great British Railway letterboxing stamp. 403 00:25:41,600 --> 00:25:42,800 Ah, thank you. 404 00:25:43,800 --> 00:25:45,680 'Until the 1970s, 405 00:25:45,680 --> 00:25:49,440 'there were no more than a dozen letterboxes around Dartmoor. 406 00:25:49,440 --> 00:25:53,160 'But in the last 40 years, it's become so popular that there are said 407 00:25:53,160 --> 00:25:57,600 'to be over 5,000 and definitely room for one more.' 408 00:25:57,600 --> 00:26:00,000 Pat, do you think I might create my own letterbox? 409 00:26:00,000 --> 00:26:03,480 I think that would be a wonderful idea and I know just the spot 410 00:26:03,480 --> 00:26:06,080 where you could do just that thing. 411 00:26:14,120 --> 00:26:17,600 Pat, what a wizard spot. That is wonderful. 412 00:26:17,600 --> 00:26:20,520 Absolutely perfect, it'll take your box. 413 00:26:20,520 --> 00:26:25,680 Put my stamp inside, seal the box. 414 00:26:29,120 --> 00:26:31,680 Into the hole. Yes. 415 00:26:31,680 --> 00:26:35,400 How will people find the Great British Railway Journey's box? 416 00:26:35,400 --> 00:26:38,080 The clue for this box will appear in the next 417 00:26:38,080 --> 00:26:41,640 edition of the Catalogue of Dartmoor Letterboxers. 418 00:26:41,640 --> 00:26:44,520 They'll have to buy the book. They will indeed. 419 00:26:46,160 --> 00:26:51,240 The Victorians were remarkably inventive in every sphere. 420 00:26:53,120 --> 00:26:58,360 From industry, to the arts, to how they spent their leisure time. 421 00:26:58,360 --> 00:27:02,880 It was an age of change and progress, powered by the railways. 422 00:27:02,880 --> 00:27:06,360 My rail journey that began in urban Birmingham has 423 00:27:06,360 --> 00:27:10,840 ended on desolate Dartmoor, passing Jerusalem on the way. 424 00:27:10,840 --> 00:27:16,400 It started with a whistle and, I feared, would end with a hanging. 425 00:27:16,400 --> 00:27:20,280 Once again, my Bradshaw's has brought our island history dramatically 426 00:27:20,280 --> 00:27:22,320 to life. 427 00:27:22,320 --> 00:27:26,040 With all its triumphs, tragedies and treacheries. 428 00:27:26,040 --> 00:27:30,800 Every time I step on a train, a new treasure hunt begins. 429 00:27:40,520 --> 00:27:42,480 Next time... 430 00:27:46,120 --> 00:27:48,080 Urgh! 431 00:27:48,080 --> 00:27:51,840 That is a Princess Alexandra style false fringe. 432 00:27:51,840 --> 00:27:55,400 Real human hair from the 1880s. 433 00:27:58,680 --> 00:28:03,360 Sounding better. That's pretty impressive for a first attempt. 434 00:28:03,360 --> 00:28:05,280 Got it in one! 435 00:28:08,440 --> 00:28:10,600 1,500 townspeople threatened that, 436 00:28:10,600 --> 00:28:13,880 if Mortimer was brought out to them, they would hang him. 437 00:28:13,880 --> 00:28:16,120 I imagine you Sackvilles have been fairly cautious 438 00:28:16,120 --> 00:28:17,880 about public opinion ever since. 439 00:28:17,880 --> 00:28:19,880 Extremely!