1 00:00:04,800 --> 00:00:09,600 For Victorian Britons, George Bradshaw was a household name. 2 00:00:09,600 --> 00:00:11,760 At a time when railways were new, 3 00:00:11,760 --> 00:00:15,800 Bradshaw's guidebook inspired them to take to the tracks. 4 00:00:15,800 --> 00:00:20,320 I'm using a Bradshaw's Guide to understand how trains 5 00:00:20,320 --> 00:00:23,720 transformed Britain, its landscape, its industries, 6 00:00:23,720 --> 00:00:26,520 society and leisure time. 7 00:00:26,520 --> 00:00:30,200 As I crisscross the country 150 years later, 8 00:00:30,200 --> 00:00:33,080 it helps me to discover the Britain of today. 9 00:00:54,200 --> 00:00:56,840 I'm embarking on a new rail journey which will take me 10 00:00:56,840 --> 00:01:01,200 in a semi-circular sweep through the Home Counties, skirting London, 11 00:01:01,200 --> 00:01:03,560 which, at the time of my Bradshaw's Guide, 12 00:01:03,560 --> 00:01:08,960 was the world's greatest city at a time of extraordinary innovation. 13 00:01:08,960 --> 00:01:12,800 As we know from our own times, technological progress goes 14 00:01:12,800 --> 00:01:16,280 hand in hand with changes in social behaviour. 15 00:01:16,280 --> 00:01:20,240 And I'm looking forward to seeing how customs and manners 16 00:01:20,240 --> 00:01:23,360 were altered in a newly mechanised age. 17 00:01:32,160 --> 00:01:35,360 Following my Bradshaw's Guide, I'll be travelling from 18 00:01:35,360 --> 00:01:38,760 the county of Kent, winding my way through Surrey, 19 00:01:38,760 --> 00:01:41,520 discovering Victorians of great talent, 20 00:01:41,520 --> 00:01:45,480 daredevil pioneers and a royal residence or two. 21 00:01:45,480 --> 00:01:50,240 Journey's end will be riverside in Oxfordshire at Henley-on-Thames. 22 00:01:51,880 --> 00:01:55,920 Today, my journey begins in the railway town of Ashford, 23 00:01:55,920 --> 00:02:01,040 before moving on through the Kentish Weald to call in at Marden. 24 00:02:01,040 --> 00:02:05,000 I'll finish this leg in the leafy town of Sevenoaks. 25 00:02:06,360 --> 00:02:10,480 I discover the secrets of the Victorian beauty business... 26 00:02:10,480 --> 00:02:11,920 Eurgh! 27 00:02:11,920 --> 00:02:16,200 That is a Princess Alexandra-style false fringe. 28 00:02:16,200 --> 00:02:20,160 Real human hair from the 1880s. 29 00:02:20,160 --> 00:02:22,840 ..fine-tune my piano skills... 30 00:02:22,840 --> 00:02:26,000 Sounding better? That's pretty impressive, 31 00:02:26,000 --> 00:02:28,520 considering it's your first attempt! Got it in one! 32 00:02:28,520 --> 00:02:29,840 THEY LAUGH 33 00:02:29,840 --> 00:02:33,000 ..and hear of a violent mob in Sevenoaks. 34 00:02:33,000 --> 00:02:35,480 1,500, townspeople threatened that if Mortimer 35 00:02:35,480 --> 00:02:38,560 was brought out to them, they would hang him. 36 00:02:38,560 --> 00:02:42,960 I imagine you Sackvilles have been fairly cautious about public opinion ever since? Extremely! 37 00:02:52,120 --> 00:02:55,560 My first stop will be Ashford, which Bradshaw's tells me was 38 00:02:55,560 --> 00:02:59,920 "a quiet, agricultural town in East Kent until 39 00:02:59,920 --> 00:03:02,320 "the Southeastern Railway Company made it 40 00:03:02,320 --> 00:03:04,480 "the chief station for their works, 41 00:03:04,480 --> 00:03:08,160 "since which time the population has greatly increased. 42 00:03:08,160 --> 00:03:10,440 "There's a carriage house, repairing shop, 43 00:03:10,440 --> 00:03:14,760 "an engine room, factories for wheels and boilers etc". 44 00:03:14,760 --> 00:03:16,520 And I might say that today, 45 00:03:16,520 --> 00:03:19,880 Ashford has the unique claim amongst British towns of being 46 00:03:19,880 --> 00:03:24,160 connected by high-speed rail to London in 34 minutes 47 00:03:24,160 --> 00:03:27,080 and Paris in well under two hours. 48 00:03:31,960 --> 00:03:35,280 Ashford is one of just five stations in the United Kingdom 49 00:03:35,280 --> 00:03:38,560 to offer both domestic and international services. 50 00:03:40,760 --> 00:03:44,480 In 1996, it became Ashford International, 51 00:03:44,480 --> 00:03:48,680 with Eurostar trains stopping here en route to and from the Continent. 52 00:03:50,320 --> 00:03:53,600 The railway works, described in my Bradshaw's Guide, 53 00:03:53,600 --> 00:03:56,800 stood here for around 150 years. 54 00:03:56,800 --> 00:04:00,320 Now, a new engineering operation is based here. 55 00:04:00,320 --> 00:04:04,960 In 2007, the vast Hitachi maintenance plant was built 56 00:04:04,960 --> 00:04:07,960 to support a fleet of high-speed trains which 57 00:04:07,960 --> 00:04:10,680 run on the Southeastern network. 58 00:04:10,680 --> 00:04:13,600 It has both old and new railway lines, 59 00:04:13,600 --> 00:04:15,600 so these trains have to run on both. 60 00:04:17,600 --> 00:04:20,800 I'm meeting Nigel King, the fleet manager. 61 00:04:22,320 --> 00:04:25,360 Nigel, a most impressive, spanking-new facility. 62 00:04:25,360 --> 00:04:27,440 What is it that you have to do here? 63 00:04:27,440 --> 00:04:29,560 What we do is we maintain 29 high-speed trains 64 00:04:29,560 --> 00:04:31,400 for our customer, Southeastern. 65 00:04:31,400 --> 00:04:34,800 It's different levels of maintenance we do. The smallest is an overnight check, 66 00:04:34,800 --> 00:04:37,120 which we do every evening to ensure the trains are 67 00:04:37,120 --> 00:04:40,160 fit and available for service, all the way through to the heavy overhaul, 68 00:04:40,160 --> 00:04:44,360 which you see here today, which is done at a frequency of 600,000 miles. 69 00:04:44,360 --> 00:04:48,600 That, for us, in terms of time, is around three and a half years to accumulate that mileage. 70 00:04:48,600 --> 00:04:52,720 What are the vital statistics to these trains, what speed can they do? 71 00:04:52,720 --> 00:04:57,200 The maximum speed is 225kph, which is 140mph. 72 00:04:57,200 --> 00:05:01,360 One of the complications is that you have to have two sources 73 00:05:01,360 --> 00:05:03,360 of electric power for these trains. 74 00:05:03,360 --> 00:05:07,120 Yep, so when they're on the high-speed line, which is between Ashford and London, 75 00:05:07,120 --> 00:05:11,080 they're on the AC 25,000 volts and they pick that up from the overhead line. 76 00:05:11,080 --> 00:05:13,800 Then when we get Ashford and we go on to the classic network, 77 00:05:13,800 --> 00:05:17,760 the older network, we change over to 750-volt DC and the driver 78 00:05:17,760 --> 00:05:20,560 changes to collecter shoes that go down and pick up the power. 79 00:05:20,560 --> 00:05:23,720 And does that make the train much more complicated to deal with? 80 00:05:23,720 --> 00:05:25,920 It does make it more complicated. However, 81 00:05:25,920 --> 00:05:29,480 we knew that from the outset and built that into the design. 82 00:05:29,480 --> 00:05:32,280 So, train over there... 83 00:05:32,280 --> 00:05:34,560 bogey, wheels, over here... Yeah. 84 00:05:34,560 --> 00:05:36,360 How'd you get the two to meet? 85 00:05:36,360 --> 00:05:38,120 Human power. 86 00:05:38,120 --> 00:05:41,160 No! All of this technology and we still have to use human power for this. 87 00:05:41,160 --> 00:05:45,280 Nigel, if I may say so, you're lucky that I'm here today. 88 00:05:45,280 --> 00:05:48,680 Once serviced, each of the 12 bogeys per train 89 00:05:48,680 --> 00:05:51,160 is reattached to the carriages. 90 00:05:53,280 --> 00:05:55,480 Nigel, how many tonnes are we pushing here? 91 00:05:55,480 --> 00:05:58,560 These are around 8.5 tonnes, each bogey. 92 00:05:58,560 --> 00:06:00,560 OK, well, let's go to it then. 93 00:06:01,760 --> 00:06:03,600 Eurrrgh! 94 00:06:03,600 --> 00:06:05,680 That's amazing. It's under way! 95 00:06:19,360 --> 00:06:23,040 There's a total of 29 trains in the system, 96 00:06:23,040 --> 00:06:25,040 and during weekday peak periods 97 00:06:25,040 --> 00:06:27,280 26 must be available for use, 98 00:06:27,280 --> 00:06:30,000 making the maintenance schedule a challenge. 99 00:06:30,000 --> 00:06:34,000 It's crucial to get the trains back into service without delay. 100 00:06:35,960 --> 00:06:40,680 James, hello. Hello, Michael. Good to see you. And you. 101 00:06:40,680 --> 00:06:43,040 I understand this train has been serviced, 102 00:06:43,040 --> 00:06:44,760 and is now going back into the network. 103 00:06:44,760 --> 00:06:48,280 Yes, it's had a 29-day exam, it's fit to run 104 00:06:48,280 --> 00:06:51,000 and we'll be taking it out on to the stabling area. 105 00:06:51,000 --> 00:06:53,800 The complication of these trains is that they have to pick up power 106 00:06:53,800 --> 00:06:57,520 from two places, both from a third rail and from an overhead wire. Yes. 107 00:06:57,520 --> 00:07:00,880 So presumably, both those systems have to be tested before you go out? 108 00:07:00,880 --> 00:07:04,680 Yes, we have to make sure that both the pantographs are working 109 00:07:04,680 --> 00:07:08,880 correctly, and also the shoe gear we test before it leaves the shed. 110 00:07:08,880 --> 00:07:11,680 The pantograph goes up, and then the shoes go down. 111 00:07:11,680 --> 00:07:13,320 Can I help with that? 112 00:07:13,320 --> 00:07:15,640 Basically, if you push the CTRL button... 113 00:07:17,440 --> 00:07:19,800 And then you push the "Pan Up Shoes Down" button 114 00:07:19,800 --> 00:07:21,880 and that will raise the pantograph. 115 00:07:23,600 --> 00:07:25,560 That's it. 116 00:07:32,160 --> 00:07:36,120 Having checked the pantograph, the train is then positioned so that the 117 00:07:36,120 --> 00:07:40,360 shoes below it can be deployed to take power from the third rail. 118 00:07:42,560 --> 00:07:45,640 Yeah, I can confirm we've got lined volts and all ready to move 119 00:07:45,640 --> 00:07:47,280 when you are, over. 120 00:07:47,280 --> 00:07:51,520 RADIO: All received, James, yes, you are clear to exit the shed when ready. 121 00:07:52,760 --> 00:07:55,680 I imagine we will not be travelling at 140mph? 122 00:07:55,680 --> 00:07:58,200 Er, no, no. Only 3mph out of the shed. 123 00:07:58,200 --> 00:08:01,920 3mph. What's the fastest you've ever driven one of these? 124 00:08:01,920 --> 00:08:04,760 Up to 10mph on certain parts of the yard, which we're allowed to. 125 00:08:04,760 --> 00:08:06,880 MICHAEL CHUCKLES 126 00:08:08,920 --> 00:08:12,200 I feel rather sad about this. It's a bit like taxiing in a 747, isn't it? 127 00:08:12,200 --> 00:08:15,480 All that pent-up power that we're not using. 128 00:08:15,480 --> 00:08:16,960 Well, thank you, James. 129 00:08:16,960 --> 00:08:21,280 I believe that was one of the slowest train rides I've ever taken, but also one of the most interesting. 130 00:08:21,280 --> 00:08:23,560 Lovely, thank you. Thank you very much. 131 00:08:24,880 --> 00:08:27,960 As I leave the hi-tech, high-speed train to make its way 132 00:08:27,960 --> 00:08:30,080 back into the network, 133 00:08:30,080 --> 00:08:32,360 I'm struck by how advances in railways 134 00:08:32,360 --> 00:08:34,840 have changed the face of Ashford. 135 00:08:34,840 --> 00:08:38,960 Their arrival in the Victorian era started a population boom 136 00:08:38,960 --> 00:08:43,640 and today, the fast journey times have made it into a commuter town. 137 00:08:45,080 --> 00:08:49,520 Its transport links to the Continent have attracted major businesses 138 00:08:49,520 --> 00:08:51,480 and I'm off to see one of them. 139 00:08:52,480 --> 00:08:57,480 While in Ashford, I thought I'd brush up on the history of cosmetics. 140 00:08:57,480 --> 00:09:00,600 I BLUSH to say that I know very little about it, 141 00:09:00,600 --> 00:09:03,280 but I think it has a Victorian FOUNDATION. 142 00:09:05,320 --> 00:09:07,960 I'm visiting British make-up brand Rimmel, 143 00:09:07,960 --> 00:09:10,800 which was founded in the 19th century. 144 00:09:10,800 --> 00:09:14,760 It moved to the current site when its previous factory was demolished 145 00:09:14,760 --> 00:09:17,680 to make way for the international railway station. 146 00:09:17,680 --> 00:09:20,280 Before taking a tour of the production line, 147 00:09:20,280 --> 00:09:23,960 I'm meeting make-up historian Madeleine Marsh to find out 148 00:09:23,960 --> 00:09:28,240 more about the potions and powders of Bradshaw's day. 149 00:09:28,240 --> 00:09:32,080 Madeline, who was wearing make-up in the middle of the 19th century? 150 00:09:32,080 --> 00:09:35,680 People wearing cosmetics are maybe actresses, 151 00:09:35,680 --> 00:09:37,840 prostitutes and the French. 152 00:09:37,840 --> 00:09:43,040 If you were an English lady, you wanted a pale, refined 153 00:09:43,040 --> 00:09:45,040 and unblemished complexion. 154 00:09:45,040 --> 00:09:48,360 Soaps, cold creams and powders 155 00:09:48,360 --> 00:09:52,160 were permissible as long as you used a tiny bit. 156 00:09:52,160 --> 00:09:54,760 So you had to look as though you did nothing to your face, 157 00:09:54,760 --> 00:09:58,160 but in fact you're putting all these things on it. 158 00:09:58,160 --> 00:10:02,560 The language on these is particularly fascinating. 159 00:10:02,560 --> 00:10:08,120 This one "used by refined ladies and perfectly harmless". 160 00:10:08,120 --> 00:10:10,120 Now what did they mean by that? 161 00:10:10,120 --> 00:10:12,800 That implies that something had been harmFUL. 162 00:10:12,800 --> 00:10:16,280 Yeah, and what had been harmful was face paints. 163 00:10:16,280 --> 00:10:18,200 Enamelling, as they called it. 164 00:10:18,200 --> 00:10:22,120 As used in the 18th century, ladies died from lead poisoning. 165 00:10:22,120 --> 00:10:25,600 There was arsenic, there was mercury included. 166 00:10:25,600 --> 00:10:30,480 So all these manufacturers are desperate to say this was safe. 167 00:10:30,480 --> 00:10:32,880 Now, what we've left out is hair. 168 00:10:32,880 --> 00:10:34,520 Hair was very important. 169 00:10:34,520 --> 00:10:36,200 And the less you did to your face, 170 00:10:36,200 --> 00:10:38,760 the more you wanted to do to your hair. 171 00:10:38,760 --> 00:10:44,920 Big hair, huge pompadour hairstyles, everything had to be frizzed. 172 00:10:44,920 --> 00:10:48,680 Now think, what would that crimper have done to your hair? 173 00:10:48,680 --> 00:10:53,520 Terrible stories of ladies burning themselves and losing their hair. 174 00:10:53,520 --> 00:10:57,000 And because of that, we needed this, 175 00:10:57,000 --> 00:11:00,160 and you would have worn this as well, Michael, this is bear's grease. 176 00:11:00,160 --> 00:11:03,080 You're not serious? Oh, you would. Everybody wore this. 177 00:11:03,080 --> 00:11:06,120 It was made from the fat of bears. 178 00:11:06,120 --> 00:11:09,200 Brown bears were particularly preferred. 179 00:11:09,200 --> 00:11:13,920 Later on in the 19th century, they turned to vegetable oils 180 00:11:13,920 --> 00:11:19,560 like Rowlands' Macassar Oil, which might be palm, 181 00:11:19,560 --> 00:11:24,720 it might be olive oil, and that's why on chairs and in trains today, 182 00:11:24,720 --> 00:11:30,120 even so, you get the anti-macassar on the back of the seat to stop 183 00:11:30,120 --> 00:11:34,000 a gentlemen's greasy head from leaving a nasty trail. 184 00:11:34,000 --> 00:11:35,680 What's in the box? 185 00:11:35,680 --> 00:11:36,960 Be my guest. 186 00:11:38,920 --> 00:11:41,000 Eurgh! Mmm! 187 00:11:41,000 --> 00:11:42,720 What is that? 188 00:11:42,720 --> 00:11:48,680 Well, what with curling your hair, dyeing your hair, 189 00:11:48,680 --> 00:11:50,440 female baldness was quite a problem 190 00:11:50,440 --> 00:11:55,480 and that is a Princess Alexandra-style false fringe. 191 00:11:55,480 --> 00:12:00,600 A fringe? Yes. Real human hair from the 1880s. 192 00:12:02,160 --> 00:12:06,880 In this period, an important new name in the cosmetic industry emerged. 193 00:12:06,880 --> 00:12:11,800 In 1880, Eugene Rimmel, a perfumer to the court of Queen Victoria 194 00:12:11,800 --> 00:12:17,360 invented what's believed to be the world's first non-toxic mascara. 195 00:12:17,360 --> 00:12:21,160 So popular was this product that it made him a household name 196 00:12:21,160 --> 00:12:25,840 and today the word for "mascara" in several languages is "Rimmel". 197 00:12:25,840 --> 00:12:27,680 I'm meeting Mary Brady, 198 00:12:27,680 --> 00:12:32,680 the Ashford plant manager, to take a look at today's operations. 199 00:12:32,680 --> 00:12:35,360 Mary, you have really a vast facility here. 200 00:12:35,360 --> 00:12:39,000 How many products are coming out of this factory? 201 00:12:39,000 --> 00:12:43,280 We end up manufacturing about 160 million units a year. 202 00:12:43,280 --> 00:12:46,760 I get the impression that Eugene was the great innovator. 203 00:12:46,760 --> 00:12:50,200 What was it about the man that made him a success, do you think? 204 00:12:50,200 --> 00:12:54,120 He was brilliant. He was a brilliant marketeer, he was a pioneer. 205 00:12:54,120 --> 00:12:56,960 He took advantage of some of the things that were 206 00:12:56,960 --> 00:12:59,880 going on in the Victorian era. For example, 207 00:12:59,880 --> 00:13:03,280 Valentine's Day cards were really popular, so he started sending 208 00:13:03,280 --> 00:13:07,280 the first Valentine's Day cards that were scented! 209 00:13:07,280 --> 00:13:09,040 MICHAEL LAUGHS 210 00:13:09,040 --> 00:13:12,600 It wasn't until the early 20th century that make-up 211 00:13:12,600 --> 00:13:15,600 became widely accepted in society. 212 00:13:15,600 --> 00:13:18,040 Here on the high-speed production line, 213 00:13:18,040 --> 00:13:20,440 two mascaras are made every second. 214 00:13:22,200 --> 00:13:25,760 I'm sure the Eugene Rimmel would be impressed that his invention, 215 00:13:25,760 --> 00:13:30,600 now applied on an industrial scale, has changed the face of beauty. 216 00:13:37,720 --> 00:13:40,280 From Ashford International station, 217 00:13:40,280 --> 00:13:44,320 I'm taking a short trip westwards along the line towards Tonbridge. 218 00:13:48,840 --> 00:13:50,920 My next stop will be Headcorn. 219 00:13:50,920 --> 00:13:54,280 Bradshaw's rather dismissively says that the village possesses 220 00:13:54,280 --> 00:13:58,000 "no feature of particular or general interest beyond the splendid 221 00:13:58,000 --> 00:14:00,440 "old oak tree in the churchyard". 222 00:14:00,440 --> 00:14:04,400 But with evening drawing on, there is a cryptic mention of a hotel. 223 00:14:06,640 --> 00:14:11,640 I plan to finish my day at the George, if I can locate it. 224 00:14:14,520 --> 00:14:18,400 Several miles later and I find myself in the next town. 225 00:14:26,360 --> 00:14:29,320 Looking for the George Inn at Headcorn, 226 00:14:29,320 --> 00:14:33,840 mentioned in my Bradshaw's, I've had to come as far as Cranbrook, 227 00:14:33,840 --> 00:14:36,280 but this could well be the one mentioned in the guidebook, 228 00:14:36,280 --> 00:14:38,160 because it's old enough. 229 00:14:38,160 --> 00:14:41,360 Queen Elizabeth I stayed here in 1573. 230 00:14:41,360 --> 00:14:45,000 Now she, poor lady, was probably slowly poisoned by 231 00:14:45,000 --> 00:14:48,400 the white face paint that she applied. 232 00:14:48,400 --> 00:14:50,440 So I'd like to drink her health. 233 00:14:50,440 --> 00:14:52,880 Not that that will MAKE UP for it. 234 00:15:01,320 --> 00:15:03,840 It's the start of my second day 235 00:15:03,840 --> 00:15:07,480 and at Headcorn, I'm rejoining the Southeastern network 236 00:15:07,480 --> 00:15:11,440 that serves this beautiful part of Kent to make another short journey. 237 00:15:15,760 --> 00:15:18,120 I shall be leaving this train at Marden. 238 00:15:18,120 --> 00:15:20,480 Before the wireless or television, 239 00:15:20,480 --> 00:15:24,160 music provided entertainment for many a home. 240 00:15:24,160 --> 00:15:26,840 And thanks to technological development 241 00:15:26,840 --> 00:15:28,800 throughout the 19th century, 242 00:15:28,800 --> 00:15:30,920 one instrument in particular 243 00:15:30,920 --> 00:15:33,880 contributed mightily to family harmony. 244 00:15:36,160 --> 00:15:39,200 PIANO PLAYS A SEDATE MELODY 245 00:15:45,440 --> 00:15:48,000 On the Southeastern main line, 246 00:15:48,000 --> 00:15:52,160 Marden is my alighting point for Finchcocks Musical Museum. 247 00:15:56,120 --> 00:15:59,040 Housed in a glorious Georgian mansion, 248 00:15:59,040 --> 00:16:04,080 it's an outstanding collection of over 100 keyboard instruments, 249 00:16:04,080 --> 00:16:10,120 with chamber organs, harpsichords, as well as around 70 pianos. 250 00:16:11,360 --> 00:16:16,160 From the original grands to the more compact squares, 251 00:16:16,160 --> 00:16:18,960 right through to modern uprights. 252 00:16:18,960 --> 00:16:22,000 I want to find out more about this instrument, 253 00:16:22,000 --> 00:16:25,000 which became ubiquitous in the Victorian era. 254 00:16:25,000 --> 00:16:28,760 Gary Branch is both pianist and piano historian. 255 00:16:31,200 --> 00:16:33,640 Gary, a lovely welcome. What was that piece? 256 00:16:33,640 --> 00:16:37,960 Well, that was a piece called The Lake by William Sterndale Bennett 257 00:16:37,960 --> 00:16:41,560 and it was very typical of the type of music that would have been 258 00:16:41,560 --> 00:16:44,440 played on square pianos just like this one. 259 00:16:44,440 --> 00:16:49,320 What sorts of families would be able to afford pianos during the 19th century? 260 00:16:49,320 --> 00:16:52,560 And did they spread, as it were, down the social scale? 261 00:16:52,560 --> 00:16:55,040 Absolutely. When you go back to the 18th century, 262 00:16:55,040 --> 00:16:59,800 they would have only been affordable by the wealthiest people in society. 263 00:16:59,800 --> 00:17:03,600 As the Industrial Revolution came along, mechanisation 264 00:17:03,600 --> 00:17:08,480 and changes in industrial skills and technology made it easier and cheaper 265 00:17:08,480 --> 00:17:12,040 to make pianos, so you have more people who could afford and also you 266 00:17:12,040 --> 00:17:14,440 were able to make the instruments much cheaper, 267 00:17:14,440 --> 00:17:16,520 so it became hugely popular. 268 00:17:16,520 --> 00:17:19,120 The piano was sort of the centre of the home. 269 00:17:19,120 --> 00:17:21,440 It was the home entertainment system. 270 00:17:21,440 --> 00:17:26,360 So it was really put upon, often, young ladies of the house to learn 271 00:17:26,360 --> 00:17:29,680 to play the instruments and then other members of the family sing along. 272 00:17:29,680 --> 00:17:31,520 This is a very handsome instrument. 273 00:17:31,520 --> 00:17:35,160 Do we know its origin, do we know who owned it? We do. 274 00:17:35,160 --> 00:17:38,480 And it's interesting story, because this particular one was 275 00:17:38,480 --> 00:17:42,880 hired by a very, very special person indeed and that was Queen Victoria. 276 00:17:42,880 --> 00:17:46,720 Queen Victoria hired this piano? She did indeed, yes. 277 00:17:46,720 --> 00:17:50,040 On three or four occasions in the 1860s 278 00:17:50,040 --> 00:17:54,040 and then permanently from 1870 to 1901. 279 00:17:54,040 --> 00:17:56,920 And she played? She played, she was a good pianist. 280 00:17:56,920 --> 00:18:00,800 She was not as good, of course, as her husband Prince Albert. 281 00:18:00,800 --> 00:18:04,000 He'd had lessons with Felix Mendelssohn, 282 00:18:04,000 --> 00:18:05,760 Queen Victoria was a wonderful singer. 283 00:18:05,760 --> 00:18:09,080 So they would sit and play and sing together to the family. 284 00:18:09,080 --> 00:18:12,320 So they were doing very much what people in the rest 285 00:18:12,320 --> 00:18:15,040 of the country were doing in their own homes 286 00:18:15,040 --> 00:18:18,640 and sort of leading the way, as it were, in music at that time. 287 00:18:20,800 --> 00:18:24,600 The instrument that Queen Victoria hired was a square piano 288 00:18:24,600 --> 00:18:28,640 by Broadwood, one of the pre-eminent makers of the day. 289 00:18:28,640 --> 00:18:30,320 In the late 19th century, 290 00:18:30,320 --> 00:18:33,760 it started to produce a model designed for the masses. 291 00:18:33,760 --> 00:18:35,440 The upright piano. 292 00:18:35,440 --> 00:18:40,040 Compact and cheaper, it suited smaller houses and wallets. 293 00:18:40,040 --> 00:18:44,440 The company still exists today as John Broadwood and Sons. 294 00:18:44,440 --> 00:18:49,240 And alongside manufacturing, they conserve and restore pianos. 295 00:18:49,240 --> 00:18:52,720 Hilary Martin is one of the restorers. 296 00:18:52,720 --> 00:18:56,440 Hello, Hillary. Hello. Sorry to disturb you. 297 00:18:56,440 --> 00:18:58,520 What is this piano you're working on? 298 00:18:58,520 --> 00:19:03,240 This is a 1870s Broadwood Cottage upright. 299 00:19:03,240 --> 00:19:05,360 It came in in a very sorry state. 300 00:19:05,360 --> 00:19:10,080 Looks like you're pretty much finished and you're just tuning it up now, are you? Yes. 301 00:19:10,080 --> 00:19:12,960 This will give you the first note, C. 302 00:19:12,960 --> 00:19:15,560 We put that C into that fork note 303 00:19:15,560 --> 00:19:20,240 and then we work out from there the intervals within the scale 304 00:19:20,240 --> 00:19:24,480 and then work out in octaves going to the top and going to the bottom. 305 00:19:24,480 --> 00:19:26,480 We've pretty much done this one, but... 306 00:19:26,480 --> 00:19:27,960 PLAYS OUT-OF-TUNE NOTE 307 00:19:27,960 --> 00:19:30,200 There's one note that's not quite right. 308 00:19:30,200 --> 00:19:33,720 We've put the crank on the right string... Mm-hm. 309 00:19:33,720 --> 00:19:36,240 So if you care to have a hold of the... 310 00:19:37,880 --> 00:19:39,520 ..the lever there. Yes. 311 00:19:39,520 --> 00:19:42,400 And then play that octave, F to F. 312 00:19:42,400 --> 00:19:44,840 And just see if you can bring up that note. 313 00:19:47,280 --> 00:19:48,880 PLAYS NOTE IN TUNE 314 00:19:48,880 --> 00:19:50,800 Oh! Sounding better? 315 00:19:50,800 --> 00:19:54,200 That's pretty impressive, considering it's your first attempt! 316 00:19:54,200 --> 00:19:57,080 Got it in one! THEY LAUGH 317 00:19:57,080 --> 00:19:58,680 Beginner's luck, I think. 318 00:19:58,680 --> 00:20:00,360 Yes, not bad. 319 00:20:00,360 --> 00:20:04,600 This piano, it's about 145 years old. Will it last another 145? 320 00:20:04,600 --> 00:20:06,000 Oh, yes, easily. 321 00:20:06,000 --> 00:20:09,000 I'm sure the people who made it would never have guessed that this 322 00:20:09,000 --> 00:20:11,920 was going to last well into 21st century. 323 00:20:11,920 --> 00:20:14,800 The Victorians built to last. They certainly did. 324 00:20:21,680 --> 00:20:24,320 I'm heading back to the station at Marden. 325 00:20:24,320 --> 00:20:28,160 And for the next part of my journey, I'll remain in the gentle, rural 326 00:20:28,160 --> 00:20:32,560 scenery of the Kentish Weald as I travel westwards along the tracks. 327 00:20:39,120 --> 00:20:41,560 My next stop will be in what Bradshaw's calls 328 00:20:41,560 --> 00:20:44,520 "the beautiful village of Sevenoaks, 329 00:20:44,520 --> 00:20:48,760 "which contains Knole Park, the seat of the Sackvilles. 330 00:20:48,760 --> 00:20:51,160 "The mansion is in the old English style, 331 00:20:51,160 --> 00:20:54,800 "castellated with square towers, one of the most splendid 332 00:20:54,800 --> 00:20:59,400 "seats in the kingdom, and the collection of paintings is very fine". 333 00:20:59,400 --> 00:21:03,640 I look forward to hearing the family history from a Sackville. 334 00:21:11,880 --> 00:21:18,080 The Southeastern Railway came to Sevenoaks relatively late, in 1868. 335 00:21:18,080 --> 00:21:20,040 And within just a few years, 336 00:21:20,040 --> 00:21:23,200 it was already an attractive commuter town for London, 337 00:21:29,400 --> 00:21:32,560 with access to beautiful green spaces. 338 00:21:36,760 --> 00:21:42,440 Located close to the town centre is Knole Park, a vast 1,000-acre 339 00:21:42,440 --> 00:21:47,600 medieval deer park, which is also the setting for the imposing Knole House. 340 00:21:50,800 --> 00:21:53,440 Originally built in the mid 15th century, 341 00:21:53,440 --> 00:21:59,640 since 1604, it's been the seat of the Sackvilles, an aristocratic family 342 00:21:59,640 --> 00:22:04,400 which over the years has been in and out of the public eye. 343 00:22:04,400 --> 00:22:06,320 Michael, welcome to Knole. 344 00:22:06,320 --> 00:22:09,120 To find more about this intriguing family, 345 00:22:09,120 --> 00:22:13,080 I'm meeting the current Baron, Robert Sackville-West. 346 00:22:13,080 --> 00:22:16,160 It is a stunning house, as my Bradshaw's had promised me. 347 00:22:16,160 --> 00:22:18,560 How did it come into the Sackville family? 348 00:22:18,560 --> 00:22:21,360 Well, it began life as a small manor house. It was then 349 00:22:21,360 --> 00:22:23,920 acquired by the archbishops of Canterbury, as their sort of 350 00:22:23,920 --> 00:22:28,080 personal residence, and then was confiscated from them 351 00:22:28,080 --> 00:22:32,960 by King Henry VIII, who used it as a royal residence, and then 352 00:22:32,960 --> 00:22:36,160 Thomas Sackville, the first member of my family to live at Knole, 353 00:22:36,160 --> 00:22:40,240 who was Lord Treasurer - that's sort of the equivalent of Chancellor of the Exchequer. 354 00:22:40,240 --> 00:22:42,640 And in those days, if you are Lord Treasurer, 355 00:22:42,640 --> 00:22:45,960 you could award or sell to whoever you liked, 356 00:22:45,960 --> 00:22:49,400 royal freeholds, and so he did decide to sell 357 00:22:49,400 --> 00:22:52,960 a royal freehold to himself at a reasonable price. 358 00:22:52,960 --> 00:22:55,600 And, well, he got a very nice property 359 00:22:55,600 --> 00:22:57,920 and I dare say a good bargain too. 360 00:22:57,920 --> 00:23:00,720 What somewhat surprises me is it's so close to Sevenoaks. 361 00:23:00,720 --> 00:23:03,640 It's not removed at all. That's quite unusual, isn't it? 362 00:23:03,640 --> 00:23:05,280 Well, it is unusual 363 00:23:05,280 --> 00:23:10,360 and it was the temporary closure of the park in the 19th century 364 00:23:10,360 --> 00:23:15,480 that sparked what can only be described as riots in Sevenoaks in 1884. 365 00:23:15,480 --> 00:23:17,520 One of my ancestors, Mortimer, 366 00:23:17,520 --> 00:23:22,760 decided for his own reasons to close the park to the public. 367 00:23:22,760 --> 00:23:28,160 And 1,500 townspeople tore down the posts 368 00:23:28,160 --> 00:23:32,320 he'd erected across the gate, shouted abuse at Mortimer, 369 00:23:32,320 --> 00:23:34,880 broke a few windows and threatened that 370 00:23:34,880 --> 00:23:37,800 if Mortimer was brought out to them, they would hang him. 371 00:23:37,800 --> 00:23:41,480 A compromise was reached within about a year 372 00:23:41,480 --> 00:23:44,480 and it's been open without interruption ever since. 373 00:23:44,480 --> 00:23:48,680 I imagine you Sackvilles have been fairly cautious about public opinion ever since? Extremely! 374 00:23:48,680 --> 00:23:49,720 THEY LAUGH 375 00:24:02,360 --> 00:24:05,000 Knole House is enormous. 376 00:24:05,000 --> 00:24:07,760 Built on a magnificent scale. 377 00:24:07,760 --> 00:24:11,960 Its interior reveals one opulent chamber after another, 378 00:24:11,960 --> 00:24:14,840 housing priceless artworks and tapestries 379 00:24:14,840 --> 00:24:17,560 collected over the centuries. 380 00:24:17,560 --> 00:24:22,080 It's also home to the most complete set of royal Stuart furniture 381 00:24:22,080 --> 00:24:25,160 in the world, which came from the royal palaces 382 00:24:25,160 --> 00:24:28,280 of Kensington, Whitehall and Hampton Court. 383 00:24:32,360 --> 00:24:34,880 So who was it that succeeded Mortimer? 384 00:24:34,880 --> 00:24:38,280 Well, he was succeeded by his rather feckless younger brother, 385 00:24:38,280 --> 00:24:40,760 Lionel Sackville-West, in 1888. 386 00:24:40,760 --> 00:24:45,120 But he brought with him to Knole an encumbrance, really. 387 00:24:45,120 --> 00:24:49,400 And that encumbrance was the fact that he had five illegitimate children. 388 00:24:51,120 --> 00:24:54,960 Lionel Sackville-West had a 19-year relationship 389 00:24:54,960 --> 00:24:58,000 with a Spanish dancer known as "Papita", 390 00:24:58,000 --> 00:25:00,520 which produced the five children. 391 00:25:00,520 --> 00:25:04,560 One of them, Victoria, managed to inherit the estate by marrying 392 00:25:04,560 --> 00:25:09,000 her first cousin, also called Lionel, who was the heir. 393 00:25:09,000 --> 00:25:12,600 Such a prize didn't go unchallenged. 394 00:25:12,600 --> 00:25:15,920 There was a moment in 1910 where they were probably the most 395 00:25:15,920 --> 00:25:18,440 notorious family in the country, 396 00:25:18,440 --> 00:25:22,840 because one of the five illegitimate children brought a claim 397 00:25:22,840 --> 00:25:27,360 that he was in fact the legitimate heir to the title and to Knole. 398 00:25:27,360 --> 00:25:30,440 The succession case in which they were embroiled was on the front 399 00:25:30,440 --> 00:25:34,360 pages of newspapers both in America and in England. 400 00:25:34,360 --> 00:25:36,360 And did he succeed in that? 401 00:25:36,360 --> 00:25:40,080 He didn't succeed and, tragically, about four years later, 402 00:25:40,080 --> 00:25:41,960 he committed suicide. 403 00:25:41,960 --> 00:25:45,280 The best known member of your family is probably Vita Sackville-West. 404 00:25:45,280 --> 00:25:46,880 Now, where did she derive from? 405 00:25:46,880 --> 00:25:52,920 She was the daughter of Victoria and Victoria's first cousin, Lionel, 406 00:25:52,920 --> 00:25:55,600 and she was born and brought up at Knole 407 00:25:55,600 --> 00:25:58,520 and she absolutely loved her lonely childhood, 408 00:25:58,520 --> 00:26:02,640 wandering around the house, looking in drawers, finding things out. 409 00:26:02,640 --> 00:26:04,840 She adored the place. 410 00:26:04,840 --> 00:26:10,800 Born in 1892, Vita Sackville-West was a successful poet and novelist. 411 00:26:10,800 --> 00:26:13,560 She's remembered for her works of literature 412 00:26:13,560 --> 00:26:18,040 and for her same-sex affairs, notably with Virginia Woolf, 413 00:26:18,040 --> 00:26:22,240 whose famous novel Orlando celebrates their friendship. 414 00:26:22,240 --> 00:26:27,800 On the death of Vita's father in 1928, Knole passed not to her, 415 00:26:27,800 --> 00:26:33,320 but to the next male heir, Robert's great-uncle, Charles Sackville-West. 416 00:26:33,320 --> 00:26:36,640 You're the 14th generation of your family to live at Knole. 417 00:26:36,640 --> 00:26:39,480 What is it about the place that captures you? 418 00:26:39,480 --> 00:26:42,840 I think most people, the first thing that strikes you about Knole 419 00:26:42,840 --> 00:26:44,760 is its sheer size. 420 00:26:44,760 --> 00:26:49,680 And that you can wander around it and still make discoveries here. 421 00:26:49,680 --> 00:26:52,000 But the other thing, from my perspective, 422 00:26:52,000 --> 00:26:57,200 is that it is very unusual for one house to have been inhabited 423 00:26:57,200 --> 00:27:00,040 continuously, really, for 400 years by members of one family. 424 00:27:00,040 --> 00:27:04,880 And though at times that sense of history can be a little oppressive, 425 00:27:04,880 --> 00:27:07,920 at other times, it's wonderful experience. 426 00:27:11,760 --> 00:27:15,240 Whilst one family has lived here for hundreds of years, 427 00:27:15,240 --> 00:27:18,720 the 19th century was a time of change. 428 00:27:18,720 --> 00:27:23,480 Advances in piano-making enabled the middle-classes to enjoy 429 00:27:23,480 --> 00:27:27,760 home-made music and the sight of mothers and daughters playing 430 00:27:27,760 --> 00:27:31,880 and singing together is a Victorian cliche. 431 00:27:31,880 --> 00:27:36,960 Elsewhere, technological advances produced non-toxic make-up 432 00:27:36,960 --> 00:27:40,040 and the change was more than cosmetic. 433 00:27:40,040 --> 00:27:44,680 It transformed what was considered proper and decent 434 00:27:44,680 --> 00:27:49,360 and the New Woman, in her lipstick and mascara, was unlikely to 435 00:27:49,360 --> 00:27:53,480 believe that her proper place in life was on the piano stool. 436 00:27:57,240 --> 00:27:58,480 Next time... 437 00:27:58,480 --> 00:28:00,000 TRAIN WHISTLES 438 00:28:00,000 --> 00:28:02,080 ..I volunteer at a heritage railway... 439 00:28:03,520 --> 00:28:05,240 Wah! 440 00:28:05,240 --> 00:28:07,120 ..and feel the pressure. 441 00:28:07,120 --> 00:28:10,800 I discover a 19th-century painter who, 100 years later, 442 00:28:10,800 --> 00:28:13,240 changed the course of history... 443 00:28:13,240 --> 00:28:17,000 President Obama talks about being converted to a life 444 00:28:17,000 --> 00:28:21,320 of political activity through a sermon on Watts's painting of Hope. 445 00:28:21,320 --> 00:28:25,600 ..and I have a blast with a formidable Victorian invention. 446 00:28:25,600 --> 00:28:27,160 Three, two, one... 447 00:28:28,600 --> 00:28:29,640 Whoa!