1 00:00:04,800 --> 00:00:08,560 For Victorian Britons, George Bradshaw was a household name. 2 00:00:09,960 --> 00:00:11,480 At a time when railways were new, 3 00:00:11,480 --> 00:00:15,720 Bradshaw's guidebook inspired them to take to the tracks. 4 00:00:15,720 --> 00:00:19,440 I'm using a Bradshaw's guide to understand how trains 5 00:00:19,440 --> 00:00:21,360 transformed Britain, 6 00:00:21,360 --> 00:00:25,760 its landscape, its industry, society and leisure time. 7 00:00:25,760 --> 00:00:31,080 As I crisscross the country 150 years later, it helps me 8 00:00:31,080 --> 00:00:33,440 to discover the Britain of today. 9 00:00:54,320 --> 00:00:57,600 I'm continuing my journey through Surrey. 10 00:00:57,600 --> 00:01:01,760 Today, I hope to discover how the Victorian middle classes 11 00:01:01,760 --> 00:01:05,320 created beautiful homes and gardens. 12 00:01:05,320 --> 00:01:07,080 And, by the end of the 19th century, 13 00:01:07,080 --> 00:01:11,400 demanded a revolution in personal transport to match that 14 00:01:11,400 --> 00:01:15,200 in public transport represented by the railways. 15 00:01:15,200 --> 00:01:18,840 The pace of change in Victorian Britain altered 16 00:01:18,840 --> 00:01:21,800 everything in life, including death. 17 00:01:29,120 --> 00:01:32,360 Following my Bradshaw's guidebook, I travelled through 18 00:01:32,360 --> 00:01:36,480 the county of Kent and took a route south of London into Surrey. 19 00:01:37,560 --> 00:01:40,960 Passing through the Home Counties, I'll visit racetracks 20 00:01:40,960 --> 00:01:45,880 and royal residences before ending riverside in Henley-on-Thames. 21 00:01:48,120 --> 00:01:51,560 Today, I make a sombre start in Woking. 22 00:01:51,560 --> 00:01:54,640 I then put down some roots in West Byfleet, 23 00:01:54,640 --> 00:01:57,040 before racing through Weybridge 24 00:01:57,040 --> 00:01:59,880 to an intense end in Walton-on-Thames. 25 00:02:02,640 --> 00:02:04,920 I get my hands dirty at Wisley. 26 00:02:06,640 --> 00:02:10,000 You're being quite rough with that. I'd be frightened to do that. 27 00:02:10,000 --> 00:02:12,680 In the long term, this will do the plant no end of good. 28 00:02:12,680 --> 00:02:14,880 So a bit of rough love? Absolutely. 29 00:02:14,880 --> 00:02:18,160 Pitch up to see some early camping kit. 30 00:02:18,160 --> 00:02:19,640 This looks handy. 31 00:02:19,640 --> 00:02:22,000 Probably not when it's full, Michael. 32 00:02:22,000 --> 00:02:23,920 That is actually a washing-up bowl. 33 00:02:23,920 --> 00:02:25,600 THEY LAUGH 34 00:02:25,600 --> 00:02:29,320 And get a fright at the wheel of a vintage racing car. 35 00:02:29,320 --> 00:02:31,400 The throttle's got stuck. 36 00:02:32,880 --> 00:02:34,360 The throttle's got stuck. 37 00:02:34,360 --> 00:02:36,320 No, the throttle's got stuck. 38 00:02:37,440 --> 00:02:40,360 Thank you very much. That was a nasty moment. 39 00:02:43,880 --> 00:02:46,600 I'm passing close to the enormous Brookwood Cemetery, 40 00:02:46,600 --> 00:02:50,000 opened in 1864, the year of my guidebook, 41 00:02:50,000 --> 00:02:52,480 to cope with burials from London. 42 00:02:52,480 --> 00:02:57,040 But towards the end of the 19th century, with the enormous increase 43 00:02:57,040 --> 00:02:59,480 in the metropolitan population, 44 00:02:59,480 --> 00:03:02,920 the ingenious idea of exporting bodies from London 45 00:03:02,920 --> 00:03:06,200 to suburban cemeteries was running out of steam. 46 00:03:06,200 --> 00:03:09,440 And the city was about to lose the plot. 47 00:03:12,280 --> 00:03:14,720 My first stop today is Woking. 48 00:03:14,720 --> 00:03:18,400 A busy interchange station with fast links to London, 49 00:03:18,400 --> 00:03:21,760 as well as mainlines to the South Coast and the South West. 50 00:03:24,560 --> 00:03:26,000 Just west of Woking, 51 00:03:26,000 --> 00:03:30,280 the Brookwood Cemetery is the largest in western Europe. 52 00:03:30,280 --> 00:03:32,480 Built to inter the capital's dead, 53 00:03:32,480 --> 00:03:37,560 it was supplied by trains from Waterloo with corpses and mourners. 54 00:03:40,360 --> 00:03:42,400 A decade after Brookwood opened, 55 00:03:42,400 --> 00:03:46,680 a movement began to promote a controversial alternative to burial. 56 00:03:49,400 --> 00:03:53,600 Professor Hilary Grainger is a member of the Cremation Society. 57 00:03:56,000 --> 00:03:59,160 Hilary, I suppose with cemeteries like Brookwood filling up, 58 00:03:59,160 --> 00:04:03,760 that would lead to an interest in cremation. It did indeed. 59 00:04:03,760 --> 00:04:05,960 And it was not simply a question of space, 60 00:04:05,960 --> 00:04:09,120 but it was also a question of hygiene. 61 00:04:09,120 --> 00:04:13,280 Cremationists in the 1870s became very concerned about the miasma, 62 00:04:13,280 --> 00:04:15,640 the gasses that they believed were being emitted 63 00:04:15,640 --> 00:04:18,760 from overcrowded cemeteries, spreading disease. 64 00:04:18,760 --> 00:04:22,320 So the Cremation Movement was historically secular, 65 00:04:22,320 --> 00:04:24,680 concerned with health and hygiene. 66 00:04:24,680 --> 00:04:29,960 And also, of course, was underpinned by advances in Victorian technology. 67 00:04:29,960 --> 00:04:33,000 Had it not been for Victorian engineering in terms of 68 00:04:33,000 --> 00:04:37,720 furnace developments, then cremation couldn't have taken place. 69 00:04:37,720 --> 00:04:39,840 Cremation had been the most common way 70 00:04:39,840 --> 00:04:42,800 to dispose of corpses during the Roman Empire. 71 00:04:42,800 --> 00:04:45,160 But for almost 2,000 years, 72 00:04:45,160 --> 00:04:48,840 the Christian church had stipulated that they must be buried. 73 00:04:50,760 --> 00:04:52,640 Despite religious opposition, 74 00:04:52,640 --> 00:04:57,000 the movement to promote cremation was established in 1874. 75 00:04:57,000 --> 00:04:58,880 And four years later, 76 00:04:58,880 --> 00:05:03,320 it constructed Britain's first purpose-built crematorium at Woking. 77 00:05:04,320 --> 00:05:07,920 The Cremation Society was founded by Sir Henry Thompson, 78 00:05:07,920 --> 00:05:10,760 who was the surgeon to Queen Victoria. 79 00:05:10,760 --> 00:05:13,400 He, together with 15 like-minded people, 80 00:05:13,400 --> 00:05:16,200 signed a declaration in favour of cremation. 81 00:05:16,200 --> 00:05:19,760 And one of the early advocates made the comment that they were 82 00:05:19,760 --> 00:05:23,480 seeking purification rather than putrefaction. 83 00:05:23,480 --> 00:05:26,160 So, then, the cremations began? Um...no. 84 00:05:26,160 --> 00:05:29,200 Sir Henry Thompson and colleagues cremated a horse, 85 00:05:29,200 --> 00:05:33,880 but that caused a huge uproar in Woking, led by the vicar. 86 00:05:33,880 --> 00:05:36,800 And he, together with a number of residents, 87 00:05:36,800 --> 00:05:39,560 made a deputation to the Home Secretary, 88 00:05:39,560 --> 00:05:42,720 who declared that cremation was not a legal act 89 00:05:42,720 --> 00:05:46,920 until there was some sort of parliamentary authorisation. 90 00:05:46,920 --> 00:05:52,200 A curious court case in 1884 effectively changed the law. 91 00:05:53,840 --> 00:05:56,440 After a Welsh druid, Dr William Price, 92 00:05:56,440 --> 00:05:58,840 had cremated the body of his child, 93 00:05:58,840 --> 00:06:03,320 a judge ruled that it was not criminal if no nuisance was caused. 94 00:06:07,120 --> 00:06:09,400 That made cremations legal. 95 00:06:09,400 --> 00:06:13,480 And they began here at Woking Crematorium in 1885, 96 00:06:13,480 --> 00:06:16,280 with three taking place in the first year. 97 00:06:18,280 --> 00:06:21,240 Given the religious opposition to cremation, 98 00:06:21,240 --> 00:06:23,520 it's quite surprising that this building, 99 00:06:23,520 --> 00:06:26,560 which is clearly 19th century, looks ecclesiastical. 100 00:06:26,560 --> 00:06:30,760 That is because a crematorium posed a real problem for an architect. 101 00:06:30,760 --> 00:06:32,240 It was a new building type, 102 00:06:32,240 --> 00:06:34,920 for which there was no architectural precedent. 103 00:06:34,920 --> 00:06:37,240 And in that sense, rather analogous, I think, 104 00:06:37,240 --> 00:06:39,920 to early Victorian railway stations. 105 00:06:39,920 --> 00:06:42,760 And so architects, I think, in the early years, 106 00:06:42,760 --> 00:06:45,480 designed crematories that looked like churches. 107 00:06:45,480 --> 00:06:47,200 But, of course, they're not churches. 108 00:06:47,200 --> 00:06:49,000 And many people find it surprising 109 00:06:49,000 --> 00:06:51,280 that they're not consecrated buildings. 110 00:06:52,760 --> 00:06:56,120 Since cremation was regarded as unconventional, 111 00:06:56,120 --> 00:07:00,440 the building was designed to be reassuringly traditional. 112 00:07:01,640 --> 00:07:05,880 So now we've come inside, we find this splendid catafalque. 113 00:07:05,880 --> 00:07:08,480 Again, lots of religious symbolism. 114 00:07:08,480 --> 00:07:12,080 Indeed, the catafalque is not only the structure upon which 115 00:07:12,080 --> 00:07:15,680 the coffin sits, but it's also the means by which it's removed 116 00:07:15,680 --> 00:07:19,400 mechanically and horizontally through to the cremator room. 117 00:07:19,400 --> 00:07:23,960 In many early crematoria, coffins descended in an imitation of burial. 118 00:07:26,040 --> 00:07:27,920 The early adopters of cremation 119 00:07:27,920 --> 00:07:31,080 were typically drawn from the realms of science, medicine, 120 00:07:31,080 --> 00:07:33,200 arts and literature. 121 00:07:34,640 --> 00:07:38,960 Here we have Thomas Hardy, the novelist, who was cremated, 122 00:07:38,960 --> 00:07:42,520 and his ashes were taken to Westminster Abbey for internment. 123 00:07:42,520 --> 00:07:46,400 Very striking. He's come all the way from Dorchester, that's a long way. 124 00:07:46,400 --> 00:07:49,360 It is, but you have to remember there were very few crematoria 125 00:07:49,360 --> 00:07:50,480 built at this time. 126 00:07:53,320 --> 00:07:56,120 Well, I'm just the far side of the catafalque, 127 00:07:56,120 --> 00:07:59,520 and on the other side is that beautiful brass door. 128 00:07:59,520 --> 00:08:03,200 Here, it's just plain wood, and what a contrast, 129 00:08:03,200 --> 00:08:05,160 this is a stainless steel table, 130 00:08:05,160 --> 00:08:08,440 and here's the handle that winds the coffin through. 131 00:08:11,320 --> 00:08:13,440 Hello, Phil. Hello, Michael. 132 00:08:13,440 --> 00:08:16,520 So, this is where the cremation actually takes place? 133 00:08:16,520 --> 00:08:18,960 Yes, this is what we call a cremator. 134 00:08:18,960 --> 00:08:21,000 What is the process that goes on in there? 135 00:08:21,000 --> 00:08:23,920 The process is basically the lighting of the coffin 136 00:08:23,920 --> 00:08:27,920 from the heat of the chamber, and from then on it's combustion. 137 00:08:27,920 --> 00:08:29,960 And then all that matter is reduced. 138 00:08:29,960 --> 00:08:31,760 How long does that process take? 139 00:08:31,760 --> 00:08:33,600 Approximately 90 minutes. 140 00:08:36,760 --> 00:08:42,600 It wasn't until 1968 that the number of cremations began to exceed burials 141 00:08:42,600 --> 00:08:47,480 and today, cremations make up well over 70% of funerals. 142 00:08:49,560 --> 00:08:54,240 What looks like a graveyard but is not a graveyard? 143 00:08:54,240 --> 00:08:55,680 This. 144 00:08:55,680 --> 00:08:57,320 In the early days of cremation, 145 00:08:57,320 --> 00:09:02,440 Victorians and Edwardians clung to the idea of burying ashes. 146 00:09:02,440 --> 00:09:06,720 It was as though they could not let go of an ancient ritual 147 00:09:06,720 --> 00:09:10,760 in an age that prided itself on its rationalism. 148 00:09:16,040 --> 00:09:19,960 Back at Woking Station, I'm taking a London-bound train. 149 00:09:19,960 --> 00:09:22,880 But I won't be going anywhere near the capital, 150 00:09:22,880 --> 00:09:26,840 as this leg of the journey takes me just three miles along the tracks. 151 00:09:26,840 --> 00:09:29,240 I'm now passing through what Bradshaw 152 00:09:29,240 --> 00:09:32,720 describes as "a succession of picturesque views 153 00:09:32,720 --> 00:09:34,720 "which will delight the traveller, 154 00:09:34,720 --> 00:09:38,920 "affording pleasing specimens of English forest scenery." 155 00:09:38,920 --> 00:09:42,760 In the 19th century, the middle classes wanted to bring nature 156 00:09:42,760 --> 00:09:45,400 closer to their homes, to their gardens, 157 00:09:45,400 --> 00:09:48,240 and they did so with Victorian earnestness, 158 00:09:48,240 --> 00:09:53,560 and they benefitted from an explosion in the number of available specimens. 159 00:09:59,040 --> 00:10:02,880 I'm alighting at West Byfleet, which is the station closest 160 00:10:02,880 --> 00:10:07,040 to the Royal Horticultural Society's garden at Wisley. 161 00:10:12,160 --> 00:10:16,240 Across its 240 acres of decorative flowerbeds, 162 00:10:16,240 --> 00:10:17,520 glasshouses, 163 00:10:17,520 --> 00:10:20,120 laboratories and an arboretum, 164 00:10:20,120 --> 00:10:23,840 it displays species from around the world. 165 00:10:23,840 --> 00:10:25,680 Throughout the 19th century, 166 00:10:25,680 --> 00:10:29,520 the RHS educated the Victorian gardener 167 00:10:29,520 --> 00:10:32,600 as interest in horticulture bloomed. 168 00:10:32,600 --> 00:10:36,480 I'm meeting the director of horticulture, Tim Upson. 169 00:10:36,480 --> 00:10:39,640 I believe the origins of the Royal Horticultural Society 170 00:10:39,640 --> 00:10:41,920 go back to the beginnings of the 19th century. 171 00:10:41,920 --> 00:10:43,800 What was going on in that period 172 00:10:43,800 --> 00:10:46,680 to make people want to found such an organisation? 173 00:10:46,680 --> 00:10:48,560 We were founded in 1804. 174 00:10:48,560 --> 00:10:52,640 Seven gentlemen proposing a new horticultural society, 175 00:10:52,640 --> 00:10:56,720 really just to understand this vast wealth of new plants 176 00:10:56,720 --> 00:10:59,240 which were coming in from around the world. 177 00:10:59,240 --> 00:11:01,360 And to promote the practice, 178 00:11:01,360 --> 00:11:05,640 science and art of horticulture is really what we're still about today. 179 00:11:05,640 --> 00:11:09,560 These people were, I take it, gentlemen with substantial estates? 180 00:11:09,560 --> 00:11:13,680 Yes, John Wedgewood of the Wedgewood pottery family, 181 00:11:13,680 --> 00:11:18,040 Sir Joseph Banks, one of our great scientists, and an explorer. 182 00:11:18,040 --> 00:11:21,000 What's the history of this particular site at Wisley? 183 00:11:21,000 --> 00:11:25,000 This was actually the estate of George Fergusson Wilson. 184 00:11:25,000 --> 00:11:27,040 He was a chemist by profession, 185 00:11:27,040 --> 00:11:29,800 but what he wanted to do was to experiment 186 00:11:29,800 --> 00:11:33,080 about how to grow some of these new plants 187 00:11:33,080 --> 00:11:35,320 which were being brought into the country. 188 00:11:35,320 --> 00:11:38,560 And this site offered the opportunity, as he described, 189 00:11:38,560 --> 00:11:42,480 to grow some of these new plants in half a dozen different conditions. 190 00:11:42,480 --> 00:11:44,960 So, it's about experimenting 191 00:11:44,960 --> 00:11:48,080 and trying to understand what these new plants needed. 192 00:11:48,080 --> 00:11:50,360 A successful Victorian businessman, 193 00:11:50,360 --> 00:11:54,400 Wilson sowed the seeds of today's experimental gardens, 194 00:11:54,400 --> 00:11:58,760 which passed to the RHS in 1903 upon his death. 195 00:11:58,760 --> 00:12:00,600 We've met in the rockery, 196 00:12:00,600 --> 00:12:04,440 which strikes me as a particularly Victorian sort of garden. 197 00:12:04,440 --> 00:12:06,160 Yes, very much of that era. 198 00:12:06,160 --> 00:12:11,360 In fact, they used a light railway to move these big Sussex sandstone 199 00:12:11,360 --> 00:12:13,240 boulders around the slopes here, 200 00:12:13,240 --> 00:12:17,280 and it's one of the fabulous features of this garden. 201 00:12:17,280 --> 00:12:20,400 Do you think the British today are more or less passionate 202 00:12:20,400 --> 00:12:22,680 than the Victorians were about their gardens? 203 00:12:22,680 --> 00:12:26,080 There's still a lot of passion. We're a great gardening country. 204 00:12:26,080 --> 00:12:30,160 I think we're beginning to realise how important horticulture 205 00:12:30,160 --> 00:12:32,920 and green spaces are to our general lives. 206 00:12:32,920 --> 00:12:34,480 It makes you feel better. 207 00:12:34,480 --> 00:12:36,480 Get a bit of soil under your nails. 208 00:12:36,480 --> 00:12:39,160 That's right, that's what it's all about really. 209 00:12:41,760 --> 00:12:46,120 The gardens were initially only open to RHS members, 210 00:12:46,120 --> 00:12:51,440 of which there are now 440,000, but today Wisley is open to all. 211 00:12:53,160 --> 00:12:54,640 What brings you to Wisley? 212 00:12:54,640 --> 00:12:57,440 A walk. It's a very pleasant morning. 213 00:12:57,440 --> 00:13:00,600 Is it a good place for a family day out? Fantastic. We come here a lot. 214 00:13:00,600 --> 00:13:02,040 What do you enjoy about it? 215 00:13:02,040 --> 00:13:04,960 They love being in the big green house. 216 00:13:04,960 --> 00:13:07,080 And they like building the dens. 217 00:13:07,080 --> 00:13:10,360 Why do you think the British are so crazy about gardens? 218 00:13:10,360 --> 00:13:13,040 Very therapeutic. Gardening is very therapeutic. 219 00:13:13,040 --> 00:13:14,920 I suppose we have the weather for it - 220 00:13:14,920 --> 00:13:18,160 a lot of places are very dry, so it's difficult to grow plants. 221 00:13:18,160 --> 00:13:21,600 Whereas we have... I suppose it's easier to grow a variety. 222 00:13:22,680 --> 00:13:25,520 Growing the many thousands of varieties of plants, 223 00:13:25,520 --> 00:13:30,880 and educating the public about them, is a team of up to 200 gardeners. 224 00:13:30,880 --> 00:13:32,520 Hello, Stewart. Hello, Michael. 225 00:13:32,520 --> 00:13:35,480 I gather we're going to plant a tree. That's right. 226 00:13:37,000 --> 00:13:40,800 I'm hoping to learn a thing or two from gardener Stewart Hall. 227 00:13:44,840 --> 00:13:47,960 Stewart, the leaves are on the turn and there's a chill in the air. 228 00:13:47,960 --> 00:13:50,120 Is this a good time to be planting a tree? 229 00:13:50,120 --> 00:13:53,080 That's right, autumn is always the best time to plant trees. 230 00:13:53,080 --> 00:13:56,600 If you plant in summer, you have to think about watering continually, 231 00:13:56,600 --> 00:13:58,680 so yes, autumn is always the best time. 232 00:14:00,280 --> 00:14:03,520 Right, if I do that, you'll be able to pull the tree out. 233 00:14:03,520 --> 00:14:06,800 Comes out quite easily, and we can have a look at the root system. 234 00:14:06,800 --> 00:14:10,680 It's got a healthy root system, it's not too pot bound. 235 00:14:10,680 --> 00:14:14,840 But it can always do with quite a nice rigorous breaking up. 236 00:14:14,840 --> 00:14:17,960 This will encourage the roots to spread outwards. 237 00:14:17,960 --> 00:14:21,200 You're being quite rough with it. I'd be frightened to do that. 238 00:14:21,200 --> 00:14:23,520 When we're demonstrating to the public, 239 00:14:23,520 --> 00:14:26,280 they get quite surprised that you can be quite ruthless 240 00:14:26,280 --> 00:14:29,720 with this, but in the long term this will do the plant no end of good. 241 00:14:29,720 --> 00:14:31,520 Bit of rough love. Absolutely. 242 00:14:34,880 --> 00:14:38,160 This tree is a type of acer called October Glory, 243 00:14:38,160 --> 00:14:41,600 and should have a lifespan of around 100 years. 244 00:14:43,600 --> 00:14:45,400 So, we'll give it a nice good soak. 245 00:14:45,400 --> 00:14:48,920 What I'll do is I'll give it a nice thick cover of compost. 246 00:14:48,920 --> 00:14:52,000 Well, Stewart, I've enjoyed getting my hands dirty. 247 00:14:52,000 --> 00:14:53,680 Thank you so much. My pleasure. 248 00:14:53,680 --> 00:14:55,640 Thank you for helping. Bye! Bye-bye. 249 00:14:58,160 --> 00:15:03,200 As the day ends, I feel I've left my mark on these beautiful gardens. 250 00:15:08,400 --> 00:15:12,840 It's a new day and I'm rejoining the tracks at West Byfleet to 251 00:15:12,840 --> 00:15:17,120 make my way along this busy London commuter line to Weybridge. 252 00:15:18,440 --> 00:15:20,880 Throughout Queen Victoria's reign, 253 00:15:20,880 --> 00:15:24,840 trains were the only form of high-speed transport. 254 00:15:24,840 --> 00:15:29,240 But all her successors have witnessed the irresistible rise 255 00:15:29,240 --> 00:15:32,920 of private high-speed transport on the roads. 256 00:15:32,920 --> 00:15:36,000 I hope to appreciate the moment of transition 257 00:15:36,000 --> 00:15:38,640 when I leave this train at Weybridge. 258 00:15:46,240 --> 00:15:51,000 Within walking distance of the station is Brooklands Museum. 259 00:15:51,000 --> 00:15:54,160 It charts the rise of motor racing from the early 260 00:15:54,160 --> 00:15:57,640 prototypes of the Victorian era, through to today. 261 00:15:59,840 --> 00:16:03,320 Brooklands is the birthplace of British motorsport, 262 00:16:03,320 --> 00:16:07,120 as it was the first purpose-built race track in the world 263 00:16:07,120 --> 00:16:11,800 and was crucial to the development of the British motor industry. 264 00:16:11,800 --> 00:16:14,960 Alan Wynne is the director of the motor museum. 265 00:16:16,240 --> 00:16:20,240 So, when does motor racing really get going? 266 00:16:20,240 --> 00:16:24,360 On the Continent, in the latter years of the 19th century. 267 00:16:24,360 --> 00:16:29,160 In this country, with the exception of very few hillclimbs and sprints 268 00:16:29,160 --> 00:16:36,040 on private ground, nothing until 1907, when Brooklands track opened. 269 00:16:36,040 --> 00:16:39,600 Why the big difference between the Continent and the UK? 270 00:16:39,600 --> 00:16:42,280 It was all down to legislation, originally. 271 00:16:42,280 --> 00:16:46,640 Speed limits, in particular. Up until 1896, you've got 272 00:16:46,640 --> 00:16:49,880 a speed limit of 4mph, a man with the red flag walking in front of you. 273 00:16:49,880 --> 00:16:53,800 Then we went to 12mph and then to 20mph, 274 00:16:53,800 --> 00:16:55,560 but that's not the stuff of motor racing. 275 00:16:55,560 --> 00:16:57,880 So what happens to change that? 276 00:16:57,880 --> 00:17:02,040 It's really down to Hugh Locke King, an enthusiastic motorist. 277 00:17:02,040 --> 00:17:04,520 He owns all this land around here, 278 00:17:04,520 --> 00:17:09,680 goes off to Sicily to see the Coppa Florio motor race on public roads, 279 00:17:09,680 --> 00:17:13,400 laments the lack of British motor cars and drivers 280 00:17:13,400 --> 00:17:16,800 and is told that the reason is, there's just nowhere where the 281 00:17:16,800 --> 00:17:20,040 British manufacturers can develop fast motor cars. 282 00:17:20,040 --> 00:17:24,440 So he comes back, resolved to build this track and we end up with 283 00:17:24,440 --> 00:17:28,480 a two-and-three-quarter mile concrete racetrack, 100 feet wide, 284 00:17:28,480 --> 00:17:31,880 the first purpose-built motor racing circuit in the world. 285 00:17:31,880 --> 00:17:33,720 Shall we go and have a look at it? 286 00:17:33,720 --> 00:17:37,400 Yeah, come aboard an earlier car and we'll show you what it's all about. 287 00:17:43,400 --> 00:17:47,040 Given how dominant trains were in meeting Britain's transport 288 00:17:47,040 --> 00:17:49,240 needs when this track was built, 289 00:17:49,240 --> 00:17:54,160 only a visionary could have imagined how far the motorcar would develop. 290 00:17:56,200 --> 00:17:58,880 Brooklands cost £150,000 to build. 291 00:17:58,880 --> 00:18:02,880 The equivalent to £16 million today. 292 00:18:02,880 --> 00:18:05,000 And it nearly bankrupted Locke King. 293 00:18:07,200 --> 00:18:12,640 Steep bankings at each end allowed the cars to corner at great speeds. 294 00:18:14,480 --> 00:18:17,480 Because there was no precedent to how you would run a motor race 295 00:18:17,480 --> 00:18:20,560 on a closed circuit, the Brooklands Automobile Racing Club 296 00:18:20,560 --> 00:18:22,720 just borrowed the rules of horse racing. 297 00:18:22,720 --> 00:18:26,920 So to this day in motor racing we have the cars assembling in a paddock 298 00:18:26,920 --> 00:18:30,120 under the control of the clerk of the course, indiscretions of 299 00:18:30,120 --> 00:18:32,960 the drivers are dealt with by stewards, all of the things 300 00:18:32,960 --> 00:18:37,040 that pertained in motor racing right now will come straight from horse racing. 301 00:18:37,040 --> 00:18:38,920 Fantastic. 302 00:18:38,920 --> 00:18:44,920 This iconic track hosted the Junior Car Club's famous 200 miles races 303 00:18:44,920 --> 00:18:47,200 in the 1920s and '30s. 304 00:18:47,200 --> 00:18:51,600 And staged the first ever British Grand Prix in 1926. 305 00:18:53,200 --> 00:18:57,320 Racing ceased at Brooklands on the outbreak of the Second World War, 306 00:18:57,320 --> 00:19:00,720 when the site was used to build Vickers military aircraft. 307 00:19:03,880 --> 00:19:06,080 Today, sections of the track remain 308 00:19:06,080 --> 00:19:11,320 and I'm throwing caution to the wind to take this beauty out for a spin. 309 00:19:13,240 --> 00:19:14,600 What is this car? 310 00:19:14,600 --> 00:19:17,800 A 1929 Bentley 4.5 litre, 311 00:19:17,800 --> 00:19:22,080 as raced by legends of motor racing like Tim Birkin. 312 00:19:22,080 --> 00:19:25,840 He raced this car in the double 12 race in 1929. 313 00:19:25,840 --> 00:19:27,200 Still going strong. 314 00:19:27,200 --> 00:19:29,000 Still going extremely strong. 315 00:19:30,840 --> 00:19:35,520 Right, so all three switches on the right-hand side down. All down. 316 00:19:35,520 --> 00:19:37,720 Ignition to fully retarded. 317 00:19:37,720 --> 00:19:40,800 Press the starter button here. ENGINE IGNITES 318 00:19:50,840 --> 00:19:54,560 Takes a bit of getting used to. The throttle is in the middle, 319 00:19:54,560 --> 00:19:56,480 the brake's on the right... 320 00:19:58,160 --> 00:20:03,560 You imagine streaking along the course, 100, 120mph, 321 00:20:03,560 --> 00:20:08,160 the crowds going crazy, racing green streaking past them. 322 00:20:08,160 --> 00:20:11,760 This car can easily go over 100mph, 323 00:20:11,760 --> 00:20:14,280 but I'm not aiming for a track record today. 324 00:20:15,280 --> 00:20:16,560 I'm enjoying this! 325 00:20:17,720 --> 00:20:21,160 Well, I'm glad you're getting to learn a vintage motorcar 326 00:20:21,160 --> 00:20:23,840 in such a wonderful, evocative place as this. 327 00:20:23,840 --> 00:20:25,560 Ah, could be better, could it? 328 00:20:30,520 --> 00:20:34,880 The world's first purpose-built motor racing circuit. 329 00:20:34,880 --> 00:20:37,880 One of the finest cars ever built in Britain. 330 00:20:37,880 --> 00:20:39,480 How lucky am I? 331 00:20:41,800 --> 00:20:45,960 But sadly, I'm no expert at driving this vintage vehicle. 332 00:20:47,440 --> 00:20:50,400 I've cut the... The throttle's got stuck. 333 00:20:50,400 --> 00:20:52,280 The throttle's got stuck. 334 00:20:52,280 --> 00:20:54,120 No, throttle's got... 335 00:20:54,120 --> 00:20:57,000 Yes, sorry, you knocked the hand throttle. Oh, OK. 336 00:20:59,200 --> 00:21:01,800 Thank you very much, that was a nasty moment. 337 00:21:03,000 --> 00:21:05,600 As I leave the racetrack, 338 00:21:05,600 --> 00:21:08,200 I make my way back to the train track at Weybridge. 339 00:21:20,920 --> 00:21:23,960 My next stop will be Walton-on-Thames. 340 00:21:23,960 --> 00:21:28,440 I want to look at a Victorian who brought together in one activity 341 00:21:28,440 --> 00:21:30,720 many of the fashions of the day. 342 00:21:30,720 --> 00:21:35,480 An interest in nature, a wish to escape from the urban grime, 343 00:21:35,480 --> 00:21:40,440 a concern for fitness and for manliness and on a dull and damp day 344 00:21:40,440 --> 00:21:44,520 like this, what better time to think about camping? 345 00:21:48,760 --> 00:21:53,000 Walton-on-Thames is situated on the south-west mainline 346 00:21:53,000 --> 00:21:55,120 and served by fast trains, 347 00:21:55,120 --> 00:21:59,480 some of which stop only once between here and London Waterloo. 348 00:21:59,480 --> 00:22:03,600 It seems a most unlikely place to find a campsite. 349 00:22:03,600 --> 00:22:07,440 Owned by The Camping and Caravanning Club, it's the oldest 350 00:22:07,440 --> 00:22:12,600 remaining site in their network and was established in 1913. 351 00:22:12,600 --> 00:22:16,560 I'm meeting Candy Evans who writes for their magazine. 352 00:22:16,560 --> 00:22:20,400 So people have been pitching their tents here for more than 100 years. 353 00:22:20,400 --> 00:22:22,760 How did camping as an activity get going? 354 00:22:22,760 --> 00:22:25,720 It dates back to a gentleman by the name of Thomas Hiram Holding, 355 00:22:25,720 --> 00:22:28,200 the gentleman that is sitting in this tent here. 356 00:22:28,200 --> 00:22:32,360 He had spent his early years, the 1840s, in America, 357 00:22:32,360 --> 00:22:34,120 part of the wagon trains. 358 00:22:34,120 --> 00:22:38,480 And as he got older, he then went into making tents for his own use 359 00:22:38,480 --> 00:22:42,360 and for his friends and in 1901, he combined that 360 00:22:42,360 --> 00:22:46,960 with his love of cycling and started the Association of Cycle Campers. 361 00:22:48,560 --> 00:22:53,440 Born in 1844, Holding was 57 when he formed the association, 362 00:22:53,440 --> 00:22:55,760 which started out with just 13 members. 363 00:22:57,360 --> 00:23:01,640 By 1906, the association had several hundred members and would 364 00:23:01,640 --> 00:23:06,280 later go on to become The Camping and Caravanning Club that we know today. 365 00:23:08,560 --> 00:23:11,520 And as far as cycling and camping is concerned, 366 00:23:11,520 --> 00:23:14,960 did they have special bikes to do that? They did, yes. 367 00:23:14,960 --> 00:23:18,200 And you can see on here that he has special carriers for 368 00:23:18,200 --> 00:23:21,680 his Primus stove and another one for his milk bottles. 369 00:23:21,680 --> 00:23:24,120 And we have actually got a Primus here, 370 00:23:24,120 --> 00:23:26,320 which dates back to those sort of days. 371 00:23:26,320 --> 00:23:29,720 I must say, I think I remember what to do with this. 372 00:23:29,720 --> 00:23:35,520 Put down the feet for it to stand on, and you put the supports in here... 373 00:23:36,600 --> 00:23:38,520 ..which is going to... 374 00:23:38,520 --> 00:23:40,720 keep up your saucepan. 375 00:23:40,720 --> 00:23:42,120 That bit screws in there... 376 00:23:44,640 --> 00:23:46,440 ..burner sits on top... 377 00:23:46,440 --> 00:23:50,000 And then I seem to remember that you have to prime it like mad. 378 00:23:51,080 --> 00:23:54,080 What else have you got here? This looks handy. 379 00:23:54,080 --> 00:23:55,880 Probably not when it's full, Michael. 380 00:23:55,880 --> 00:23:58,320 That is actually a washing-up bowl. 381 00:23:59,520 --> 00:24:01,000 But obviously... I see. 382 00:24:01,000 --> 00:24:03,360 Once a year you would waterproof that 383 00:24:03,360 --> 00:24:06,000 and you would carry your water in this water carrier here. 384 00:24:06,000 --> 00:24:09,040 Again, it would be waterproofed, waxed once a year 385 00:24:09,040 --> 00:24:11,080 and that will do you for the season. 386 00:24:12,280 --> 00:24:14,040 At the turn-of-the-century, 387 00:24:14,040 --> 00:24:18,000 camping as a leisure pursuit was very much in its infancy. 388 00:24:18,000 --> 00:24:19,920 Equipment had to be improvised 389 00:24:19,920 --> 00:24:24,280 and the novice camper needed guidance on how to survive the great outdoors. 390 00:24:25,840 --> 00:24:27,720 Holding wrote a seminal book, 391 00:24:27,720 --> 00:24:31,560 The Campers' Handbook, to impart his many tips. 392 00:24:31,560 --> 00:24:34,960 It was extremely important to possible new campers of the day, 393 00:24:34,960 --> 00:24:37,200 because it told you absolutely everything, 394 00:24:37,200 --> 00:24:40,560 everything from what to take with you, how to transport it, 395 00:24:40,560 --> 00:24:42,560 the food you might like, 396 00:24:42,560 --> 00:24:46,280 through to how to deal with snorers on the campsite. 397 00:24:46,280 --> 00:24:48,960 One of the most important things is the clothing. 398 00:24:48,960 --> 00:24:52,720 I mean, here for example is the lady with her skirt on. 399 00:24:52,720 --> 00:24:55,960 "The best kind of skirt for camping is one that finishes three inches 400 00:24:55,960 --> 00:24:59,640 "off the ground and it should not be less, nor need it be more." 401 00:24:59,640 --> 00:25:03,520 So what did he think people could get out of camping? 402 00:25:03,520 --> 00:25:06,720 Well, for him, I think a lot of it was about health. 403 00:25:06,720 --> 00:25:10,200 Holding maintained that if you had a cold when you went camping, 404 00:25:10,200 --> 00:25:11,920 it would go immediately. 405 00:25:11,920 --> 00:25:15,440 I think he was very much of his time, a Victorian man for whom 406 00:25:15,440 --> 00:25:18,720 the outdoors was a very important part of life and it was very much 407 00:25:18,720 --> 00:25:21,760 a case of getting people out of the cities and into the countryside. 408 00:25:21,760 --> 00:25:25,960 In those days, there were no statutory holidays and in fact, 409 00:25:25,960 --> 00:25:28,320 most of the people who could afford to do this would 410 00:25:28,320 --> 00:25:30,600 have been the upper middle class and it was very 411 00:25:30,600 --> 00:25:34,080 much a case of those people getting out and doing what felt right. 412 00:25:34,080 --> 00:25:37,400 So once he's got all this going, how does it catch on? 413 00:25:37,400 --> 00:25:39,760 Remarkably rapidly, actually. 414 00:25:39,760 --> 00:25:43,360 By the time Robert Falcon Scott goes on his ill-fated expedition 415 00:25:43,360 --> 00:25:47,000 to the Antarctic, he was the president of the club. 416 00:25:47,000 --> 00:25:51,360 And by the 21st birthday of the club, Baden-Powell of the 417 00:25:51,360 --> 00:25:53,640 Scouting movement was very heavily involved 418 00:25:53,640 --> 00:25:56,120 and had become the president. 419 00:25:56,120 --> 00:25:59,680 And there's a lovely picture there of him, obviously very relaxed 420 00:25:59,680 --> 00:26:03,800 and in his element, being surrounded by other fellow campers. 421 00:26:03,800 --> 00:26:07,960 Today, The Camping and Caravanning Club has over half a million members 422 00:26:07,960 --> 00:26:11,800 and over 100 campsites the length and breadth of Britain. 423 00:26:11,800 --> 00:26:13,320 Hello! 424 00:26:13,320 --> 00:26:14,960 Sorry to trouble you. 425 00:26:14,960 --> 00:26:18,960 And it's come a long way from the sheets and poles of a century ago. 426 00:26:18,960 --> 00:26:22,560 Do you mind if I just sit down for a moment? Not at all. You're welcome. 427 00:26:22,560 --> 00:26:25,280 You've got a very smart motorhome. Have you been touring long? 428 00:26:25,280 --> 00:26:27,000 Over two years now. 429 00:26:27,000 --> 00:26:29,720 Our three children, who we raised in Sydney, 430 00:26:29,720 --> 00:26:34,560 have all put down their roots here and when we retired, they said, 431 00:26:34,560 --> 00:26:38,400 "Mum and Dad, you've got to come over and join us, the family's moved." 432 00:26:38,400 --> 00:26:42,960 So we're partly enjoying retirement and partly looking for somewhere 433 00:26:42,960 --> 00:26:44,960 we might ultimately settle. 434 00:26:44,960 --> 00:26:47,560 Are you are getting near to making a decision? 435 00:26:47,560 --> 00:26:48,480 Um... 436 00:26:48,480 --> 00:26:50,120 Well, no. Not really. 437 00:26:50,120 --> 00:26:52,720 We came over the with a list of things we wanted to do 438 00:26:52,720 --> 00:26:55,200 and after two years, the list is even longer now, 439 00:26:55,200 --> 00:26:58,160 so we haven't ultimately decided where we're going to settle. 440 00:26:58,160 --> 00:26:59,720 We enjoy this life. 441 00:27:01,120 --> 00:27:04,200 Today's campers might have fancier equipment 442 00:27:04,200 --> 00:27:08,240 and more home comforts, but the spirit of adventure that ran 443 00:27:08,240 --> 00:27:11,400 through Victorians like Thomas Hiram Holding, endures. 444 00:27:13,680 --> 00:27:17,800 During the Victorian era, those who could afford leisure visited 445 00:27:17,800 --> 00:27:20,040 the countryside using the train. 446 00:27:20,040 --> 00:27:22,120 By the end of the century, 447 00:27:22,120 --> 00:27:26,800 some were using bicycles to go camping or motorcars to tour. 448 00:27:26,800 --> 00:27:31,440 The middle classes imported nature into their urban gardens. 449 00:27:31,440 --> 00:27:33,840 But they added to the pressure on space, 450 00:27:33,840 --> 00:27:39,360 as reflected by the desperate search for places to bury the dead. 451 00:27:39,360 --> 00:27:42,240 Cremation was the obvious answer, 452 00:27:42,240 --> 00:27:47,880 but it required the overthrow of two millennia of Christian theology. 453 00:27:51,920 --> 00:27:56,640 Next time, I'm let loose on the longest vine in the world. 454 00:27:56,640 --> 00:27:59,560 Have you ever allowed an incompetent like me to do this? 455 00:27:59,560 --> 00:28:01,600 No! No. HE LAUGHS 456 00:28:03,040 --> 00:28:06,480 I get fired up, like an early Victorian gent. 457 00:28:06,480 --> 00:28:08,800 I've hit my man! 458 00:28:08,800 --> 00:28:13,840 And I find how the course of British history was set in Esher. 459 00:28:13,840 --> 00:28:17,480 If Charlotte had not died, Victoria would never have been conceived 460 00:28:17,480 --> 00:28:19,880 and we'd never have had the Victorian era.