1 00:00:04,760 --> 00:00:09,400 For Edwardian Britons, a Bradshaw's was an indispensable guide 2 00:00:09,400 --> 00:00:11,760 to a railway network at its peak. 3 00:00:13,720 --> 00:00:16,720 I'm using an early 20th-century edition 4 00:00:16,720 --> 00:00:19,920 to navigate a vibrant and optimistic Britain... 5 00:00:19,920 --> 00:00:23,040 ..at the height of its power and influence in the world... 6 00:00:25,520 --> 00:00:28,080 ..but a nation wrestling with political, 7 00:00:28,080 --> 00:00:31,120 social and industrial unrest at home. 8 00:00:53,560 --> 00:00:58,080 A century ago, South Wales could claim to have played a vital role 9 00:00:58,080 --> 00:01:01,840 in making Britain the globe's greatest economy, 10 00:01:01,840 --> 00:01:05,040 maritime power and empire. 11 00:01:05,040 --> 00:01:08,800 But coal, the key to the region's and the country's wealth, 12 00:01:08,800 --> 00:01:13,760 was unglamorous, and cities like Cardiff felt undervalued, 13 00:01:13,760 --> 00:01:17,680 and so sought other ways to draw the world's attention 14 00:01:17,680 --> 00:01:19,680 to their great worth. 15 00:01:27,640 --> 00:01:30,360 I'm continuing in South Wales, 16 00:01:30,360 --> 00:01:32,960 through the industrial core of the country, 17 00:01:32,960 --> 00:01:35,800 where Welsh character and traditions were forged 18 00:01:35,800 --> 00:01:40,040 through mining and migration, religion and rugby. 19 00:01:40,040 --> 00:01:42,880 Heading east, I'll cross the Bristol Channel into 20 00:01:42,880 --> 00:01:46,320 south west England, where Isambard Kingdom Brunel's 21 00:01:46,320 --> 00:01:50,960 feats of engineering defied tides and spanned rivers, 22 00:01:50,960 --> 00:01:53,600 before ending my journey in Cornwall. 23 00:01:55,120 --> 00:01:57,720 My journey will take me to Pontyclun, 24 00:01:57,720 --> 00:02:01,200 to the mint that exports more coins than any other. 25 00:02:01,200 --> 00:02:04,880 I'll explore sporting and maritime milestones in Cardiff 26 00:02:04,880 --> 00:02:08,640 before reaching Ebbw Vale, where I'll transfer to Bleanavon's 27 00:02:08,640 --> 00:02:10,160 heritage railway. 28 00:02:11,400 --> 00:02:16,280 On this journey, I discover how money is made in Wales... 29 00:02:16,280 --> 00:02:18,640 And then when the guard opens, it'll come out. 30 00:02:19,800 --> 00:02:20,880 HE LAUGHS 31 00:02:20,880 --> 00:02:24,320 ..test my sea legs and my lungs... 32 00:02:24,320 --> 00:02:27,760 HE SHOUTS 33 00:02:27,760 --> 00:02:29,520 ..and get back on the tracks 34 00:02:29,520 --> 00:02:32,440 at the highest station in Wales. 35 00:02:32,440 --> 00:02:35,360 WHISTLE SOUNDS 36 00:02:37,720 --> 00:02:40,920 My journey continues eastwards from Swansea. 37 00:02:40,920 --> 00:02:43,200 Destination - Pontyclun. 38 00:02:44,680 --> 00:02:49,640 It's always puzzled me why we prize gold so highly. 39 00:02:49,640 --> 00:02:51,160 When you think about it, 40 00:02:51,160 --> 00:02:55,800 why should we treasure it above all other minerals and things? 41 00:02:55,800 --> 00:02:58,280 But over the centuries, as currencies have risen 42 00:02:58,280 --> 00:03:03,520 and fallen in value, gold has been the reliable store of value. 43 00:03:03,760 --> 00:03:07,800 100 years ago, as the British government prepared its war chest, 44 00:03:07,800 --> 00:03:11,440 it wanted all the gold that it could lay its hands on. 45 00:03:15,440 --> 00:03:17,400 At the time of my Bradshaw's, 46 00:03:17,400 --> 00:03:22,000 the gold sovereign was a coin in general circulation. 47 00:03:22,000 --> 00:03:26,480 I've come just north of Pontyclun, to Llantrisant, to investigate. 48 00:03:28,560 --> 00:03:33,200 The Royal Mint moved here from London in 1968, 49 00:03:33,200 --> 00:03:36,920 and produces all British coinage and much for export. 50 00:03:39,480 --> 00:03:43,320 Its museum houses coins spanning 1,100 years... 51 00:03:44,760 --> 00:03:47,640 ..as well as medals for gallantry and Olympic victory. 52 00:03:49,160 --> 00:03:53,280 I'm meeting museum director and numismatist Dr Kevin Clancy. 53 00:03:55,960 --> 00:03:58,560 Gold has always been very closely associated with coinage, 54 00:03:58,560 --> 00:04:00,000 is that right? 55 00:04:00,000 --> 00:04:02,640 Yes, from the beginnings of the invention of coinage, 56 00:04:02,640 --> 00:04:06,320 when the Greeks invented coinage 2,500 years or more ago. 57 00:04:06,320 --> 00:04:09,360 And in Britain people would have used gold regularly 58 00:04:09,360 --> 00:04:11,480 from the mid-14th century. 59 00:04:11,480 --> 00:04:14,520 Tell me about the history of the coin that we call the sovereign. 60 00:04:14,520 --> 00:04:18,080 Well, sovereigns go back to the reign of Henry VII, 1489. 61 00:04:18,080 --> 00:04:21,720 If you had a sovereign, you would have had 20 shillings' worth, 62 00:04:21,720 --> 00:04:24,160 more or less, of gold in your pocket. 63 00:04:24,160 --> 00:04:27,440 This thing is absolutely exquisite, isn't it? 64 00:04:27,440 --> 00:04:30,440 It's got a beautiful design. The lettering is very clear. 65 00:04:30,440 --> 00:04:32,400 Tiny bit of damage to it, there. 66 00:04:32,400 --> 00:04:35,400 What a wonderful object. You must be very, very proud of that. 67 00:04:35,400 --> 00:04:38,120 It's splendid design and incredible 68 00:04:38,120 --> 00:04:40,200 on pretty well every level. 69 00:04:41,640 --> 00:04:44,600 The first modern sovereign was struck 70 00:04:44,600 --> 00:04:48,240 in 22-carat gold in 1817, 71 00:04:48,240 --> 00:04:51,200 towards the end of the reign of King George III. 72 00:04:53,240 --> 00:04:56,680 In the pre-First World War period, what's happening to the coinage? 73 00:04:56,680 --> 00:04:59,880 The sovereigns were produced in truly industrial numbers, 74 00:04:59,880 --> 00:05:01,920 millions and millions every year. 75 00:05:01,920 --> 00:05:05,560 We've got an example here from the reign of Edward VII. 76 00:05:05,560 --> 00:05:08,200 Oh, what a handsome portrait. 77 00:05:08,200 --> 00:05:10,400 That's very good. Very recognisably Edward VII. 78 00:05:11,480 --> 00:05:13,160 When he was on the throne, 79 00:05:13,160 --> 00:05:18,200 a gold sovereign represented more than a farm labourer's weekly wage. 80 00:05:18,400 --> 00:05:22,240 But what was happening to the coinage come World War I? 81 00:05:22,240 --> 00:05:24,920 You've got a period of massive economic disruption. 82 00:05:24,920 --> 00:05:28,160 The country simply couldn't sustain a precious-metal coinage 83 00:05:28,160 --> 00:05:31,360 of gold at that time. And they're replaced by paper? 84 00:05:31,360 --> 00:05:33,840 And they're replaced by paper. 85 00:05:33,840 --> 00:05:37,640 Within days of the outbreak of the war, the British public was urged 86 00:05:37,640 --> 00:05:41,840 to hand in its gold sovereigns to fund the war effort 87 00:05:41,840 --> 00:05:45,840 through war loans, or in return for treasury notes. 88 00:05:45,840 --> 00:05:51,120 By mid-1915, gold had all but disappeared from circulation. 89 00:05:51,720 --> 00:05:54,520 But sovereigns are still being made today, 90 00:05:54,520 --> 00:05:57,240 and they're highly collectable. 91 00:05:57,240 --> 00:06:00,040 I'm curious to see the process. 92 00:06:00,040 --> 00:06:03,080 But first, some stringent security checks. 93 00:06:11,920 --> 00:06:15,320 Hello, Paul. And what sort of work are you doing here? 94 00:06:15,320 --> 00:06:18,120 We're changing over our machine to bullion sovereign. 95 00:06:18,120 --> 00:06:20,200 What are bullion sovereign? Bullion sovereign's 96 00:06:20,200 --> 00:06:23,520 a lower-quality sovereign, but it's still quite a high-quality coin. 97 00:06:23,520 --> 00:06:26,240 So, these are gold of a certain purity...? 98 00:06:26,240 --> 00:06:29,160 22 carats. 22 carats. 99 00:06:29,160 --> 00:06:33,160 And at the moment, these discs of gold are completely blank. Yep. 100 00:06:33,160 --> 00:06:36,240 That's what makes the coin. This is the die, is it? That's the die. 101 00:06:36,240 --> 00:06:39,240 What, so, it's going to be like that, is it? And any heat? 102 00:06:39,240 --> 00:06:42,120 Do you heat the metal? No. And we strike it three times. 103 00:06:42,120 --> 00:06:44,640 And you have to do that with a fair amount of pressure, do you? 104 00:06:44,640 --> 00:06:47,120 70 tonnes. 70 tonnes? 70 tonnes. 105 00:06:48,320 --> 00:06:51,880 The Royal Mint strikes nearly five billion coins a year 106 00:06:51,880 --> 00:06:55,200 for around 60 countries throughout the world. 107 00:06:55,200 --> 00:06:58,520 So, one entirely blank and very beautiful coin. 108 00:07:00,080 --> 00:07:02,160 I'm going to pop it into the slot, there. 109 00:07:02,160 --> 00:07:04,240 I'm going to put my hands down here 110 00:07:04,240 --> 00:07:06,680 and press both buttons simultaneously... 111 00:07:06,680 --> 00:07:10,000 Keep your hands on them. Keep my hands on the buttons. Here we go. 112 00:07:12,200 --> 00:07:14,040 Now you can take your hands off. 113 00:07:16,040 --> 00:07:18,840 And when the guard opens, just take the coin out. 114 00:07:22,240 --> 00:07:24,120 HE LAUGHS 115 00:07:26,000 --> 00:07:28,800 Oh, look at that. Isn't that beautiful? 116 00:07:28,800 --> 00:07:32,640 Dragon on one side, Her Majesty on the other. 117 00:07:32,640 --> 00:07:35,280 A sovereign on a sovereign. It is. 118 00:07:37,200 --> 00:07:39,960 Thank you, thank you. 119 00:07:39,960 --> 00:07:41,240 Hello, Michael. 120 00:07:41,240 --> 00:07:43,960 If you just come this way, please. Another search. Another search? 121 00:07:43,960 --> 00:07:46,720 Arms like that, please, yeah. I was just searched, you know. I know. 122 00:07:46,720 --> 00:07:48,720 We search all the time here. Don't worry. 123 00:07:48,720 --> 00:07:50,800 MICHAEL LAUGHS OK. 124 00:07:50,800 --> 00:07:53,600 Under escort by head of security Mark Shutt, 125 00:07:53,600 --> 00:07:56,560 I'm gaining access to the very heart of the mint. 126 00:08:02,120 --> 00:08:04,720 Oh, my goodness. HE LAUGHS 127 00:08:04,720 --> 00:08:08,800 Oh, wow. Oh. Am I allowed to touch those? 128 00:08:08,800 --> 00:08:11,440 You can do. I'll have to give you some gloves first. 129 00:08:11,440 --> 00:08:15,520 How pure is that gold? As pure as you can get. Really? That...? 130 00:08:15,520 --> 00:08:17,720 Yes, it is. 131 00:08:17,720 --> 00:08:20,040 Be careful, they're very heavy, so please don't drop one, 132 00:08:20,040 --> 00:08:22,000 otherwise it would cost you a lot of money. Right. 133 00:08:22,000 --> 00:08:23,800 HE LAUGHS 134 00:08:23,800 --> 00:08:25,440 That is ridiculous. 135 00:08:25,440 --> 00:08:27,720 That... That is ridiculous. 136 00:08:27,720 --> 00:08:29,480 It's 14kg. 137 00:08:29,480 --> 00:08:32,400 You can't believe the density of that, can you? 138 00:08:32,400 --> 00:08:34,440 You can't believe that an object that size 139 00:08:34,440 --> 00:08:36,840 is going to weigh that much. 140 00:08:36,840 --> 00:08:39,680 Wow. And how many have we got there? 141 00:08:39,680 --> 00:08:42,720 10 bars. 10 bars. 140kg. 142 00:08:42,720 --> 00:08:44,760 How much money is that? 143 00:08:44,760 --> 00:08:47,760 About 3.5 million. You're kidding? 144 00:08:47,760 --> 00:08:51,280 3.5 million. And that's quite an elegant door. Where does that go to? 145 00:08:51,280 --> 00:08:54,000 Erm, it goes somewhere very secure and safe. 146 00:08:55,360 --> 00:08:58,200 Can't get much out of this fellow, today. No. No. 147 00:08:58,200 --> 00:09:00,400 But I'm speculating that perhaps there might be more 148 00:09:00,400 --> 00:09:01,760 of this lovely stuff in there. 149 00:09:01,760 --> 00:09:03,760 Indeed there is, yes. 150 00:09:03,760 --> 00:09:06,080 Very nice. Well, thank you, gentlemen. 151 00:09:06,080 --> 00:09:08,240 That is an exquisite display. 152 00:09:08,240 --> 00:09:11,120 Thank you very much indeed. We appreciate it. 153 00:09:20,920 --> 00:09:24,520 The game of rugby was invented by an English schoolboy, 154 00:09:24,520 --> 00:09:28,320 but embraced enthusiastically by the Welsh. 155 00:09:28,320 --> 00:09:32,760 It also flourished in the healthy, open spaces of New Zealand. 156 00:09:32,760 --> 00:09:36,600 Could men who toiled in the pit and lived in the smoke 157 00:09:36,600 --> 00:09:41,280 of industrial South Wales field the team that could match the Kiwis? 158 00:09:41,280 --> 00:09:46,360 The matter was put to the test in 1905 in the heart of Cardiff 159 00:09:46,360 --> 00:09:50,200 in a struggle that would enter the history books. 160 00:09:57,960 --> 00:10:01,120 I've travelled some 15 miles to the capital 161 00:10:01,120 --> 00:10:02,760 and the home of Welsh rugby. 162 00:10:05,960 --> 00:10:07,880 Towards the end of the 19th century, 163 00:10:07,880 --> 00:10:11,720 Cardiff had grown to become one of the largest towns in Wales, 164 00:10:11,720 --> 00:10:14,720 thanks to its prosperous trade in coal. 165 00:10:16,480 --> 00:10:21,000 King Edward VII recognised the town's great industrial success 166 00:10:21,000 --> 00:10:25,920 when, in 1905, he granted it city status. 167 00:10:25,920 --> 00:10:29,200 To find out about the sporting milestone that same year, 168 00:10:29,200 --> 00:10:31,200 I've come to Cardiff Arms Park. 169 00:10:33,680 --> 00:10:38,040 I'm joining historian Gwyn Prescott in the stands. 170 00:10:38,040 --> 00:10:41,240 Why was there such a build-up to this match in 1905? 171 00:10:42,400 --> 00:10:47,640 Well, the New Zealanders had arrived in Britain in September. 172 00:10:47,880 --> 00:10:51,680 They'd won 27 games on the trot including defeats 173 00:10:51,680 --> 00:10:56,320 of Scotland, Ireland and England by five tries to nil, 174 00:10:56,320 --> 00:10:59,680 so by the time they came to Wales, which it was, fortunately for Wales, 175 00:10:59,680 --> 00:11:02,200 right at the end of the tour, this huge interest - 176 00:11:02,200 --> 00:11:04,320 the arrival of the All Blacks in Cardiff. 177 00:11:04,320 --> 00:11:06,400 How good were the Welsh at that time? 178 00:11:06,400 --> 00:11:08,600 We were absolutely at the top of the game, 179 00:11:08,600 --> 00:11:10,640 in fact in the middle of what later became known 180 00:11:10,640 --> 00:11:15,200 as our first Golden Era - 11 years from 1900 to 1911, 181 00:11:15,200 --> 00:11:18,800 when Wales won six triple crowns. Exceptionally strong side. 182 00:11:18,800 --> 00:11:23,040 So the match begins with the two teams coming onto the pitch. 183 00:11:23,040 --> 00:11:25,920 Well, at that time, there were no formalities 184 00:11:25,920 --> 00:11:27,800 before an international match, 185 00:11:27,800 --> 00:11:29,520 but it was different with the All Blacks, 186 00:11:29,520 --> 00:11:32,360 because they'd thrown down the gauntlet at all their matches, 187 00:11:32,360 --> 00:11:34,200 performing the haka, 188 00:11:34,200 --> 00:11:36,440 but one of the Welsh selectors, 189 00:11:36,440 --> 00:11:39,080 Tom Williams, came up with a brilliant idea. 190 00:11:39,080 --> 00:11:41,720 He said, "Well, why don't we respond to the haka?" 191 00:11:41,720 --> 00:11:45,200 And what better way is there of responding to the haka than singing 192 00:11:45,200 --> 00:11:46,760 the Welsh national anthem? 193 00:11:46,760 --> 00:11:48,240 And the crowd soon picked it up, 194 00:11:48,240 --> 00:11:51,760 so, within seconds, 42,000 people were singing 195 00:11:51,760 --> 00:11:55,440 the Welsh national anthem and it had an electric effect. 196 00:11:56,920 --> 00:11:58,680 On their first tour of Britain, 197 00:11:58,680 --> 00:12:02,760 the All Blacks captivated Edwardian sports fans and the press 198 00:12:02,760 --> 00:12:05,680 when they performed they performed their ancient Maori war dance, 199 00:12:05,680 --> 00:12:08,480 the haka, which is now a rugby tradition. 200 00:12:08,480 --> 00:12:09,480 PLAYERS CHANT 201 00:12:13,440 --> 00:12:16,760 Today, Wales's national team plays next door 202 00:12:16,760 --> 00:12:20,320 at the Principality Stadium, which swallowed up 203 00:12:20,320 --> 00:12:25,000 part of the old Cardiff Arms Park where the 1905 match was staged. 204 00:12:26,040 --> 00:12:27,840 What happened in the match? 205 00:12:27,840 --> 00:12:31,800 It was an incredibly intense game, but Wales managed to score a try 206 00:12:31,800 --> 00:12:35,560 in the first half and went into a 3-0 lead. 207 00:12:35,560 --> 00:12:39,600 About 10 minutes before the final whistle, Bob Deans, 208 00:12:39,600 --> 00:12:43,160 the New Zealand centre, was passed the ball on the 25 yard line, 209 00:12:43,160 --> 00:12:48,320 22 metre line today, and made for the goal line, but was brought down. 210 00:12:48,760 --> 00:12:50,880 The referee arrived and said, "No try," 211 00:12:50,880 --> 00:12:53,720 so it was no try and the referee's decision is final. 212 00:12:53,720 --> 00:12:55,360 It was a Welsh win? It was a Welsh win. 213 00:12:55,360 --> 00:12:58,040 Why is the fixture remembered more than a century later? 214 00:12:58,040 --> 00:13:00,920 In 1905, that victory over New Zealand was 215 00:13:00,920 --> 00:13:02,680 the coming of age of Welsh rugby. 216 00:13:02,680 --> 00:13:06,600 It was the point when rugby became a marker of Welsh identity, 217 00:13:06,600 --> 00:13:07,680 if you like. 218 00:13:09,480 --> 00:13:13,960 The Golden Era of the early 20th century was unmatched 219 00:13:13,960 --> 00:13:18,760 until the 1970s when Wales again enjoyed great success. 220 00:13:20,640 --> 00:13:23,680 Gerald Davis CBE, played during that time 221 00:13:23,680 --> 00:13:26,800 and is one of the finest ever international wings. 222 00:13:26,800 --> 00:13:28,280 WELSH NATIONAL ANTHEM PLAYS 223 00:13:31,920 --> 00:13:32,880 Hi Gerald, I'm Michael. 224 00:13:41,600 --> 00:13:44,960 What a glorious sound, Gerald, and you must have heard it 225 00:13:44,960 --> 00:13:49,000 so often before matches. It must do something very special to you. 226 00:13:49,000 --> 00:13:51,400 Well, I have to say, I have heard it often enough, 227 00:13:51,400 --> 00:13:56,200 but it speaks of the heroes of the past, of Wales being a land of 228 00:13:56,200 --> 00:14:00,240 poets and singers and also the need for the Welsh language to survive. 229 00:14:00,240 --> 00:14:04,200 It is a stirring piece of music and we all feel proud 230 00:14:04,200 --> 00:14:07,560 and we all have a sense of belonging to Wales. 231 00:14:07,560 --> 00:14:10,760 Now, what fortune did you personally have against the All Blacks? 232 00:14:10,760 --> 00:14:14,920 Well, this was back in the 1970s and we never beat them. 233 00:14:14,920 --> 00:14:18,720 They're still the strong team and, up until 1953, 234 00:14:18,720 --> 00:14:23,840 Wales were leading in the series of matches against them, 3-1, 235 00:14:23,840 --> 00:14:28,120 but ever since then, Wales have never ever beaten them 236 00:14:28,120 --> 00:14:32,160 and I'd like to think perhaps in the way George Orwell thinks 237 00:14:32,160 --> 00:14:37,400 of sport, you know, Wales won the battles, but we never won the war. 238 00:14:37,720 --> 00:14:40,280 So, what does rugby mean to Wales? 239 00:14:40,280 --> 00:14:42,880 We're very proud and very passionate of our game, 240 00:14:42,880 --> 00:14:44,320 all of us in Wales are. 241 00:14:44,320 --> 00:14:47,800 It is considered to be our national sport and that is 242 00:14:47,800 --> 00:14:52,440 because we find that we can compete against the best in the world. 243 00:14:52,440 --> 00:14:55,280 We can't say that about every sport that we have in Wales, 244 00:14:55,280 --> 00:14:59,120 but certainly rugby gives us an identity on a global scale. 245 00:15:08,920 --> 00:15:12,360 I'll continue my exploration of Cardiff in the morning. 246 00:15:23,320 --> 00:15:26,480 I'm joining the railway at Cardiff Queen Street 247 00:15:26,480 --> 00:15:28,560 and travelling one stop to Cardiff Bay. 248 00:15:30,840 --> 00:15:35,160 Inspired by the example of Captain Robert Falcon Scott, 249 00:15:35,160 --> 00:15:39,600 I'm going to abandon the decadent luxury of the train for the perils 250 00:15:39,600 --> 00:15:44,360 of the briny sea, though I may stop somewhere short of the South Pole. 251 00:15:52,640 --> 00:15:55,040 At the beginning of the 20th century, 252 00:15:55,040 --> 00:16:00,080 Cardiff's docks handled more coal than any other port in the world. 253 00:16:00,080 --> 00:16:04,560 The population of what was once known as Tiger Bay had swelled 254 00:16:04,560 --> 00:16:09,240 in the mid-19th century with immigrants from all over the world. 255 00:16:09,240 --> 00:16:12,280 The Grade I listed pierhead building 256 00:16:12,280 --> 00:16:14,800 stands a stone's throw from the water. 257 00:16:14,800 --> 00:16:17,760 It was erected in 1897 258 00:16:17,760 --> 00:16:21,120 and became the headquarters of the Cardiff Railway Company. 259 00:16:24,480 --> 00:16:28,600 On the trail of Scott's voyage to the last unexplored continent 260 00:16:28,600 --> 00:16:31,960 on Earth, I'm meeting maritime historian David Jenkins. 261 00:16:31,960 --> 00:16:34,120 David, how was it that there came to be 262 00:16:34,120 --> 00:16:36,480 a connection between Captain Scott and Cardiff? 263 00:16:36,480 --> 00:16:41,080 Well, it all came about through the figure of Edward Evans 264 00:16:41,080 --> 00:16:44,320 who was Scott's deputy on the expedition. 265 00:16:44,320 --> 00:16:46,200 He had Cardiff connections, 266 00:16:46,200 --> 00:16:49,000 particularly Cardiff's foremost ship-owner 267 00:16:49,000 --> 00:16:51,000 at the time, Daniel Radcliffe, 268 00:16:51,000 --> 00:16:53,920 and through that association the scene was then set 269 00:16:53,920 --> 00:16:57,000 for Cardiff's solid support for the expedition. 270 00:16:57,000 --> 00:17:00,080 Was Cardiff anxious to support something like this? 271 00:17:00,080 --> 00:17:03,080 Well, I think there was a sense in which Cardiff wanted to be 272 00:17:03,080 --> 00:17:05,480 recognised as an imperial city. 273 00:17:05,480 --> 00:17:08,720 It wasn't recognised as one of the great entrepots of Empire 274 00:17:08,720 --> 00:17:11,520 where all the wonderful goods, like tea and sugar, 275 00:17:11,520 --> 00:17:13,240 and all the rest of it came in. 276 00:17:13,240 --> 00:17:16,240 This was the port that exported this dirty stuff called coal 277 00:17:16,240 --> 00:17:18,720 which nobody really wanted to know about, 278 00:17:18,720 --> 00:17:21,680 but actually the British Empire would have ground to a halt 279 00:17:21,680 --> 00:17:23,560 in a few weeks had it not been for this coal 280 00:17:23,560 --> 00:17:26,320 and I think the business community of Cardiff 281 00:17:26,320 --> 00:17:28,240 saw it as their opportunity to shine. 282 00:17:28,240 --> 00:17:30,880 There was prestige to be had? Exactly, Michael. 283 00:17:30,880 --> 00:17:34,400 This was the expedition which they hoped to reach the South Pole 284 00:17:34,400 --> 00:17:37,200 and claim it for Britain. 285 00:17:37,200 --> 00:17:42,320 Scott's first Antarctic expedition, between 1901 and 1904, fell short 286 00:17:43,080 --> 00:17:45,200 of the pole by 500 miles, 287 00:17:45,200 --> 00:17:48,120 but made it further south than man had travelled before. 288 00:17:48,120 --> 00:17:51,240 Scott returned a hero and was made Commander 289 00:17:51,240 --> 00:17:54,880 of the Royal Victorian Order by the King, yet he remained 290 00:17:54,880 --> 00:17:59,840 determined to complete the mission and planned a second expedition. 291 00:17:59,840 --> 00:18:02,160 Where exactly did the Terra Nova depart? 292 00:18:02,160 --> 00:18:04,200 Well, just from behind us here, Michael. 293 00:18:04,200 --> 00:18:05,840 She sailed out into the Channel, 294 00:18:05,840 --> 00:18:09,520 she was followed by a massive entourage of local tugs 295 00:18:09,520 --> 00:18:12,960 and she left Cardiff amidst great flag-waving 296 00:18:12,960 --> 00:18:15,080 and ceremony on 15th June 1910, 297 00:18:15,080 --> 00:18:17,600 which was a lovely day, not like today. 298 00:18:18,840 --> 00:18:23,280 Scott realised his dream and became the first British explorer 299 00:18:23,280 --> 00:18:26,680 to reach the South Pole in January 1912, 300 00:18:26,680 --> 00:18:31,600 but his achievement was bittersweet as the Norwegian Roald Amundsen 301 00:18:31,600 --> 00:18:34,640 had beaten him to it by month. 302 00:18:34,640 --> 00:18:37,280 We all know that the expedition ends in disaster 303 00:18:37,280 --> 00:18:38,720 and with Scott's death. 304 00:18:38,720 --> 00:18:39,880 What happens to the ship? 305 00:18:39,880 --> 00:18:42,240 The ship returns here in 1913, 306 00:18:42,240 --> 00:18:44,680 obviously a much more solemn occasion 307 00:18:44,680 --> 00:18:47,080 than her departure of three years previously, 308 00:18:47,080 --> 00:18:49,720 but the Terra Nova did come back to Cardiff 309 00:18:49,720 --> 00:18:51,920 and there are a number of memorials around the city 310 00:18:51,920 --> 00:18:53,160 related to the vessel. 311 00:18:53,160 --> 00:18:55,960 An extraordinary sort of symmetry between the departure and return. 312 00:18:55,960 --> 00:18:57,760 Exactly, she did return. 313 00:18:57,760 --> 00:19:02,600 Over 100 years after Scott's ill-fated second expedition, 314 00:19:02,600 --> 00:19:05,560 I'm keen to find out whether the spirit of adventure 315 00:19:05,560 --> 00:19:10,360 is still alive in Cardiff Bay, on a boat that is no stranger to the ice. 316 00:19:10,360 --> 00:19:14,920 Skipper Andy Hall welcomes me on board the yacht Challenge Wales. 317 00:19:14,920 --> 00:19:17,920 Thank you very much. Anyone got a life jacket? 318 00:19:32,760 --> 00:19:35,360 This vessel has been to Antarctica, has it not? 319 00:19:35,360 --> 00:19:39,360 Yes, this boat was originally built to race around the world, 320 00:19:39,360 --> 00:19:41,920 so she's been down into the southern hemisphere 321 00:19:41,920 --> 00:19:44,560 and down into the Southern Ocean on two occasions now. 322 00:19:44,560 --> 00:19:47,200 And a century after Scott, Antarctica is still 323 00:19:47,200 --> 00:19:50,160 a substantial challenge? Oh, yes, very much so. 324 00:19:50,160 --> 00:19:53,600 Even the current round-the-world races all have limiting points 325 00:19:53,600 --> 00:19:55,920 to stop them going too far down into the ice. 326 00:19:55,920 --> 00:19:58,640 What does the boat do now? What's its function today? 327 00:19:58,640 --> 00:20:03,240 The boat is now owned by the charity of the same name 328 00:20:03,240 --> 00:20:05,880 and the purpose of the charity is to take young people out 329 00:20:05,880 --> 00:20:10,360 on adventurous trips to help develop what's broadly termed "life skills", 330 00:20:10,360 --> 00:20:12,800 so it's getting them working as a team, setting them 331 00:20:12,800 --> 00:20:15,240 a challenge, taking them out of their comfort zone, 332 00:20:15,240 --> 00:20:17,440 getting away from their mobile phone coverage. 333 00:20:17,440 --> 00:20:21,280 Well, I'd like to muck in with that. I'm at your orders, captain. 334 00:20:21,280 --> 00:20:22,400 OK, that's good. 335 00:20:22,400 --> 00:20:24,600 If you'd like to make your way forward to the mast, 336 00:20:24,600 --> 00:20:27,640 then you can help put the sail up and we'll just get 337 00:20:27,640 --> 00:20:30,080 the starboard running backstay forward, please, team. 338 00:20:34,320 --> 00:20:36,800 Hello, Adrian, reporting for duty. That's good, Michael, 339 00:20:36,800 --> 00:20:38,400 if you'd like to come up to here. Yes. 340 00:20:38,400 --> 00:20:41,240 This is the main halyard for the boat 341 00:20:41,240 --> 00:20:45,640 and this pulls up the mainsail, so it's a bell-ringing action 342 00:20:45,640 --> 00:20:48,880 first of all and then we pull the rope outwards. 343 00:20:48,880 --> 00:20:50,320 It is getting harder. 344 00:20:53,560 --> 00:20:56,000 Out and down! 345 00:20:56,000 --> 00:20:58,840 Out and down! Whoa! 346 00:21:08,960 --> 00:21:12,360 Hello, are you Sophie? Yes. My name is Michael. 347 00:21:12,360 --> 00:21:14,760 How long have you been on Challenge Wales? 348 00:21:14,760 --> 00:21:17,920 I started coming on board about seven years ago. 349 00:21:17,920 --> 00:21:19,920 Oh, wow, so you're quite a veteran? 350 00:21:19,920 --> 00:21:23,080 Yeah. It's quite hard physical work. Have you adapted to that? 351 00:21:23,080 --> 00:21:26,320 Yeah, cos when you're working altogether, it becomes quite fun. 352 00:21:26,320 --> 00:21:30,520 The crew is currently in training for this summer's Tall Ships Races, 353 00:21:30,520 --> 00:21:33,640 one of the largest youth and cultural events in Europe 354 00:21:33,640 --> 00:21:38,760 for trainee sailors, drawn from many nationalities and backgrounds. 355 00:21:38,920 --> 00:21:42,560 The event has been an annual fixture since 1956 356 00:21:42,560 --> 00:21:46,880 and, this year, around 100 vessels will be taking part. 357 00:21:58,840 --> 00:22:02,760 I'll leave this train at Ebbw Vale, bound for Blaenavon. 358 00:22:02,760 --> 00:22:06,120 My 1907 Bradshaw's railway map is eloquent. 359 00:22:06,120 --> 00:22:09,800 There's a greater concentration of railways here in South Wales 360 00:22:09,800 --> 00:22:12,640 than anywhere else in the United Kingdom. 361 00:22:12,640 --> 00:22:15,880 In parallel lines, representing the valleys, 362 00:22:15,880 --> 00:22:19,240 the trains brought the coal down to the ports. 363 00:22:19,240 --> 00:22:22,600 In those days, coal was used for everything - in homes, 364 00:22:22,600 --> 00:22:26,520 in industry for power, by ships and by the Royal Navy. 365 00:22:26,520 --> 00:22:29,360 With the decline of coal - puff! - 366 00:22:29,360 --> 00:22:31,320 in 1980, the rail services 367 00:22:31,320 --> 00:22:35,000 between Blaenavon and Pontypool were terminated, 368 00:22:35,000 --> 00:22:38,600 but today trains run again - puff-puff! 369 00:22:44,120 --> 00:22:47,480 Tickets, please. Hello. Hello. How are you? 370 00:22:47,480 --> 00:22:50,120 Going to end of the line. OK. Thank you. 371 00:22:50,120 --> 00:22:53,040 I'm just looking at this old map of the railway lines 372 00:22:53,040 --> 00:22:54,280 here in South Wales. 373 00:22:54,280 --> 00:22:57,160 Do you have any memory of when every one of these valleys have a line? 374 00:22:57,160 --> 00:22:59,160 I remember a lot of coal industry, 375 00:22:59,160 --> 00:23:03,120 a lot of coal freight, going down the valleys where I live. Yes. 376 00:23:03,120 --> 00:23:08,080 It's all gone now, but I worked in the mines myself. Did you? 377 00:23:08,080 --> 00:23:11,520 Yeah, done it for 15 years, came out of it unscathed, so... 378 00:23:11,520 --> 00:23:13,200 Yeah, congratulations. 379 00:23:13,200 --> 00:23:14,960 Well, thank you very much. Yeah, thank you. 380 00:23:14,960 --> 00:23:16,480 Have a nice journey. Thank you. 381 00:23:20,160 --> 00:23:24,160 At the start of the First World War, coal exports from Wales 382 00:23:24,160 --> 00:23:28,320 were at their peak, at more than 10 million tons annually. 383 00:23:28,320 --> 00:23:32,680 During that industrial heyday, the big pit mine 384 00:23:32,680 --> 00:23:36,120 was in full production and the town of Blaenavon could be 385 00:23:36,120 --> 00:23:40,560 reached from Ebbw Vale via a western branch on the Monmouthshire line. 386 00:23:40,560 --> 00:23:42,640 WHISTLE BLOWS 387 00:23:42,640 --> 00:23:47,880 Built in 1866, this stretch of track closed to passengers in 1941 388 00:23:48,560 --> 00:23:51,000 and to cold freight in 1980. 389 00:23:52,320 --> 00:23:54,840 WHISTLES BLOW 390 00:23:56,360 --> 00:23:57,760 It's now a heritage line, 391 00:23:57,760 --> 00:24:01,720 preserved by the Pontypool and the Blaenavon Railway Society. 392 00:24:01,720 --> 00:24:06,040 Retired railway civil engineer Paul Dally used to maintain tracks 393 00:24:06,040 --> 00:24:07,440 in West Wales. 394 00:24:07,440 --> 00:24:09,920 This is a splendid vehicle. What is this? 395 00:24:09,920 --> 00:24:13,280 This is an ex-Great Western Railway inspection saloon 396 00:24:13,280 --> 00:24:15,720 that was used by the engineers to inspect the track 397 00:24:15,720 --> 00:24:18,800 and it's mounted on an even older underframe that came 398 00:24:18,800 --> 00:24:22,840 from the 1880s, so this coach would have been built in about 1912. 399 00:24:22,840 --> 00:24:25,840 I never think much about rail inspections. 400 00:24:25,840 --> 00:24:27,080 Tell me how it was done. 401 00:24:27,080 --> 00:24:30,280 Well, track inspection is principally down on foot. 402 00:24:30,280 --> 00:24:34,400 You've a patrolman who walks the line regularly to ensure it's safe. 403 00:24:34,400 --> 00:24:37,480 And you, of course, have to maintain heritage railways. 404 00:24:37,480 --> 00:24:39,880 You have to be certain that the track is safe. Absolutely. 405 00:24:39,880 --> 00:24:42,160 The same principles that were carried out 406 00:24:42,160 --> 00:24:44,600 during the Edwardian times still apply today. 407 00:24:44,600 --> 00:24:47,000 Not on the filthy wet day like today? 408 00:24:47,000 --> 00:24:49,240 Track patrolling has to be done whatever the weather, 409 00:24:49,240 --> 00:24:50,560 even in the snow. 410 00:24:59,840 --> 00:25:03,320 Gauge down, turn knob. Is that satisfactory? 411 00:25:03,320 --> 00:25:05,080 Yes, that is good because 1,435 412 00:25:05,080 --> 00:25:07,200 is four foot eight and a half in imperial 413 00:25:07,200 --> 00:25:10,760 and this is slightly over, so this is all well within tolerance. 414 00:25:12,640 --> 00:25:15,160 This is a fun thing to do in wet weather! 415 00:25:15,160 --> 00:25:18,240 Yes, it's not very nice, but then you can see the dips. Oh! 416 00:25:18,240 --> 00:25:19,880 What's causing this? 417 00:25:19,880 --> 00:25:21,120 Well, in this instance, 418 00:25:21,120 --> 00:25:24,560 it's probably down to the amount of mining that's been done in the area. 419 00:25:24,560 --> 00:25:26,120 Old mine workings do subside. 420 00:25:26,120 --> 00:25:28,440 That would have to be put right at some point. 421 00:25:28,440 --> 00:25:31,280 Yes, that would be planned in for the local gang to come 422 00:25:31,280 --> 00:25:34,360 and lift the track and pack, to get the rails exactly level. 423 00:25:34,360 --> 00:25:37,400 Well, I think I might leave you to put it right. 424 00:25:37,400 --> 00:25:39,680 I was I was rather hoping to take another ride. 425 00:25:39,680 --> 00:25:41,440 That will be excellent, thank you. 426 00:25:44,680 --> 00:25:47,920 Alex. May I come aboard? Of course. Thank you. 427 00:25:49,120 --> 00:25:50,560 WHISTLE BLOWS 428 00:25:52,400 --> 00:25:54,000 BLOWS AGAIN 429 00:26:06,640 --> 00:26:10,600 Alex, it's a wet day and you've got quite an incline here. 430 00:26:10,600 --> 00:26:14,360 Is it difficult to drive the locomotive in these conditions? 431 00:26:14,360 --> 00:26:17,200 There's a little bit more skill required, but... 432 00:26:17,200 --> 00:26:19,960 You can slip on the rails if you're not careful? 433 00:26:19,960 --> 00:26:24,920 You can, yes, very much so. What is the gradient? It's about one in 40. 434 00:26:24,920 --> 00:26:27,960 And the valleys here are so beautiful, aren't they? 435 00:26:27,960 --> 00:26:31,480 Even on a wet day, it has a majesty about it, doesn't it? 436 00:26:31,480 --> 00:26:33,440 It certainly does. 437 00:26:33,440 --> 00:26:36,840 And filled with steam and smoke, it looks at its best. 438 00:26:38,440 --> 00:26:41,760 And we're coming towards our last station. What's the name of that? 439 00:26:41,760 --> 00:26:44,200 This is the Whistle Inn. The Whistle Inn? 440 00:26:44,200 --> 00:26:47,640 That demands a whistle, don't you think? It does indeed. Here we go. 441 00:26:47,640 --> 00:26:49,680 WHISTLE BLOWS 442 00:26:49,680 --> 00:26:52,720 Wow! I enjoyed that. It's a pleasure. 443 00:26:55,960 --> 00:26:57,600 Thank you, Alex. 444 00:26:59,840 --> 00:27:04,520 And thank you, Wayne. A pleasure. Bye-bye. Bye. Bye now. 445 00:27:12,720 --> 00:27:15,120 At the beginning of the 20th century, 446 00:27:15,120 --> 00:27:19,520 South Wales was known around the globe for its coal - 447 00:27:19,520 --> 00:27:22,880 the fuel of British manufacturing industry 448 00:27:22,880 --> 00:27:26,480 and of the most powerful navy in the world. 449 00:27:26,480 --> 00:27:31,680 The departure of Captain Scott from Cardiff to Antarctica boosted 450 00:27:31,800 --> 00:27:37,000 the region's prestige and the Welsh anthem swelled in the valleys 451 00:27:37,440 --> 00:27:41,200 when the national team triumphed over the All Blacks. 452 00:27:41,200 --> 00:27:44,120 The men who toiled in the coal mines 453 00:27:44,120 --> 00:27:49,000 and those who carried the coal along these lines were justly proud. 454 00:27:49,000 --> 00:27:52,800 They knew that the might of the British Empire 455 00:27:52,800 --> 00:27:54,680 rested on their brawn. 456 00:27:59,760 --> 00:28:02,800 Next time, a cinematic experience hits a high note... 457 00:28:02,800 --> 00:28:03,840 CINEMA ORGAN PLAYS 458 00:28:07,000 --> 00:28:08,280 That's absolutely brilliant. 459 00:28:08,280 --> 00:28:09,520 This is Mary. 460 00:28:09,520 --> 00:28:12,560 ..I learn about the fight for female emancipation. 461 00:28:12,560 --> 00:28:14,840 How do you feel about those women, those suffragettes? 462 00:28:14,840 --> 00:28:19,000 They knew what they wanted and in the end they got it, didn't they? 463 00:28:19,000 --> 00:28:21,240 ..and prepare for a smooth landing. 464 00:28:22,440 --> 00:28:24,360 The toilets are no longer in use. 465 00:28:24,360 --> 00:28:26,520 Cabin crew, resume your seats, please. 466 00:28:26,520 --> 00:28:29,560 Oh! That is amazing.